• SaltyNicko
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  • SaltyNicko

Epic Mediterranean Odyssey

Chasing the dream waters of the Med and beyond. En savoir plus
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    Paris

    Day 60 - Louvre - Paris

    Aujourd’hui, France

    This is my most anticipated moment! My number one city and number one destination!! So I’m really pumped!! I got here nice and early for my 9am entry. The Metro has been such a wonderful experience. This morning the first thing that I noticed was how clean everything is. But the most memorable thing will be the smell when I got onto my first train - French Perfume!! That was such a striking sensory experience. Another little but memorable thing to lock away!! It just compliments to my idealised visions of this beautiful place.En savoir plus

  • Bye bye Barcelona - hello Paris!! Wow who would have thought that I would be actually doing this. Two major cities - two major countries. And I’m travelling first class on the TGV. Cutting through the centre of France all the way to Paris for 5 nights. So Paris. The final destination of my EMO. When I started planning my trip - Paris and Athens were the bookend cities. My first accommodation reservation was for Paris - so thanks to Steve C - I booked the 3 Ducks Boutique Hostel. I’ll have someone to blame if it turns out a goose!!
    I’m now in France on the TGV an hour into the trip. The Barcelona Sants was not too bad - had a little hitch with my billet (ticket) but sorted it OK.
    This morning I had decided to try chasing some more art - but again ended up a dud - so in the end decided to purchase a tourist bus hop on hop off style tour of the city. It was busy - but sort of OK and made me realise how much of the city and its landmarks I had actually already seen mostly on foot! It took a couple of hours - so I headed to the station after picking up my pack from the hostel. Departure time was was set for 16:24 - yep that’s scheduling to the minute supposedly. I reckon we left 6 minutes late!!
    En savoir plus

  • Barcelona is a city that grabs and immerses you in its vibrant pulse. It’s loud and brash. Sirens blaring, taxis and motorcycles buzzing and the big wide footpaths are pathways of people either going with you or against you. People speaking load and fast and seemingly not making any sense and always with such passion and animated gestures! It’s really in your face. I just wonder why so many people are out and about and not working or at school - then I think well a lot will be just like me - tourists or visitors etc. I know it’s like this in any major city - I guess for me it’s something I’ve never had a lot of exposure to - so it can be a bit overwhelming. But I just press on and go with the flow - trying to sync to the pulse.
    My Park Guell entry isn’t until 1pm so I’ve got time in the morning for a fast walk to the Museu Nacional D’Art De Catalunya in the Montjuic precinct. A most impressive building on top of a hill and showcasing a very high calibre mix of art. Great views of the city and a beautiful series of waterfalls and fountains cascading down towards the city. I followed the water features downtown to the nearest metro and easily within a few minutes had directions/instructions my ticket and on a train that in 8 stops would have me diagonally across the city and within 10 walk to Park Guell. Easy peasy!!
    Park Guell is another tribute / creation inspired by Gaudi. It’s basically a big garden with paths etc and an area where Gaudi’s signature architecture and art and sculpture meld into unique structures where you won’t find any rectilinear forms. All shapes of walls, columns, windows, roofs - every structural and built element - there’s not a 90 degree joint anywhere. This is his interpretation of nature - where supposedly the same rule applies. I haven’t fact checked that yet. So again a nightmare to construct - but beautiful to look at and certainly aesthetically appealing - seems nature figured that out eons ago. The place was busy with tourists and guided groups. It was a little disappointing in that much of it was closed off - significant upgrades to drainage systems by my observations. The Park is on a hill and has fantastic views over the city and the coast.
    I stayed for just under a couple of hours then made my way back to the city on the metro again. I’m now parked up in an Irish Pub having another IPA. Yesterday woke the bear in me haha. I’m in the “Gothic Quarter” of the old city. Pretty groovy and nice vibe. Went to the local market and tasted some local foods. I wasn’t too exotic in my choices - but enjoyed the freshness. I had a savoury pastry filled with mushrooms, olives and cheese then washed it down with a Dragonfruit and Coconut fresh juice.
    En savoir plus

  • Barcelona - big, bold and bustling!! My first full day in this crazy city. Must say that whilst I have an incredible location with my digs - unfortunately there’s a downside - my room stinks. And it’s pretty easy to guess what of. So my sleep was not good and deep. I made several attempts to reduce the smell by sealing up drains in the shower and vanity. Complained about it to the only person around in the morning - a cleaner. His solution a liberal dose of disinfectant down the drains followed by some perfume solution. Not what I’d call root cause analysis and rational problem solving. We did manage to jamb open a window to allow some extra ventilation.
    My day was scheduled to start at the Picasso Museum. The earliest entry time I could get was 12:15. So I had a slow start by visiting another art museum called The Mayoral Gallery - had great reviews - only to find again - it wasn’t open!! I then wondered towards the Picasso and allowed myself some little deviations along the way. Blow me down, I stumble across a sculpture in a small plaza - identical to “Laura” (I think that’s its name) at the Pt Leo Estate sculpture park!!
    Next I was drawn by the vivid colours of a neat little street art gallery. It was a beaut bright flouro painted shop with poster style original one off artworks over the top of copied prints of famous people. Also many full original works in similar style. They were pretty cool. Me being me started asking the guy about the art - he was Pedro and his English was not too bad. Somehow we got onto the subject of swimming and soon I was giving him dry swim lessons there and then in his shop!! He really appreciated my tips and we chatted for quite a while between his customers. He was one of the artists whose works were for sale. I was keen to buy something 100€ or so - pretty good value - but I would never be able to carry it of course.
    The Picasso Museum is a permanent legacy of his lifetime. So a chronological display of his life’s art was carefully curated and well presented in a set of separate rooms. The museum is actually in the old city part of Barcelona - so was really lovely setting and character. Again the numbers allowed in at any one time were well controlled in terms of entry times. You could stay inside for as long as you liked. I just did a self guided tour mainly following the crowd. There were guided tours and self guided with audio devices.
    OK time for some architecture now. So I worked out a bit of a walking plan and just went for it. Casa Batllo and Sagrada Familia buildings designed by the very famous Spanish Architect Gaudi. Again - like their art - the Spanish can go to extremes when it comes to form - never mind the function of construction - this is all about complex geometry and seemingly impossible curves and shapes on a scale that is mind blowing. Especially the Sagrada Familia Basillica Church. Very spectacular!! I only walked around the buildings - entry quite expensive and time was of the essence. By now I was feeling pretty thirsty and when I stumbled across a BEER HALL I just had to stop. Styled on American surf and skateboard themes. They didn’t have any Hazy Pale Ales so I settled for an IPA 6€ for a reasonable sized glass. The toilet was full of graffiti - so I left my mark in more ways than one. More walking and wondering in my general direction of my digs and I spot a landmark building in the distance - so I headed for it and a few more photos.
    By the time I got back to my digs I was pretty much buggered. A lot of walking today.
    En savoir plus

  • Day 56 - Barcelona Bound!!

    12 octobre, Espagne

    My second last destination - Barcelona!!
    When I first started planning my EMO - I always wanted to limit myself to only visiting a few major cities. Barcelona and Paris. Barcelona for its architecture and art - Paris, well because it’s Paris - my number one city in the world that I’ve always wanted to visit. So fitting that I end my odyssey with these two beauties!! So I’ll definitely be on a high for the next week.
    As it turns out today is Spain’s National Day - so many places are closed. I think this will be good for me navigating the Barcelona metro system once arriving from Figueres. I’m currently at the station in Figueres - I’ve got my ticket - it’s quiet - the sun’s out and I’m feeling bloody great. I’ve again been so lucky in my travels. Things have just worked out almost always in a positive way. And I reckon that’s because when I’ve been in a bit of strife, usually my own making, I’ve turned to people for help. And help I’ve received in so many ways. So many people - when asked have been so kind and warm and supportive. Yesterday was another example. I met a young man on my bus to Cadaques - he was visiting from Barcelona. Alex spoke good English so we chatted all the way to Cadaques. Me being me also asked for some suggestions and things to see and do in Barcelona - so he made me a list. He checked where I was staying and confirmed that it was an excellent central location - walking distance from all the major attractions. How good is that!!
    So today my objective is getting to my Barcelona digs. Should be a piece of cake haha??!!! What could possibly go wrong??
    En savoir plus

  • Day 55 - Cadaques

    11 octobre, Espagne

    Another day on the Dali discovery trail. Cadaques was Dali’s home for more than 50 years. He and his wife lived and extensively added to and landscaped what was originally a tiny and very modest 2 room cottage. It’s right on the beach of a beautiful little bay called Portlligat on the Cap de Creus peninsula, on the Costa Brava of the Mediterranean Sea. So for me it’s also significant - it will be my last swim in the Mediterranean - rather appropriate I reckon and a special way to close my Epic Mediterranean Odyssey.
    Getting there by bus took about an hour from Figueres. I had an early start and caught the bus at 8:15. My entry into the house was scheduled for 10:30 - first opening for the day. We were split into groups of about 10-15 and assigned a guide for the interior part of the house tour. It’s well managed in terms of controlling how many people are in the house at any one time and they keep you moving - but it was pretty quiet first thing so had time and space. Their house was transformed into a multi level very interesting internal layout design for its period. It ended up being very big - but interestingly only one bedroom. Apparently they didn’t like to have guests stay overnight. His studio was great to see. Large but not warehouse massive. Tall ceiling and nice natural lighting from large windows to the east and north. What was interesting was the system he set up so as to paint large canvases. He actually had a wide thin slot in the floor right adjacent to where his painting was fixed to a metal frame that could be raised and lowered on pulleys - thus enabling him to paint standing or sitting at a comfortable height - then he could move the canvas up and down through the slot as he progressed. Very clever really and would have taken a bit of planning to incorporate into his overall design for the house.
    Their landscaping and garden features were amazing as well. Very extensive sprawling paths amongst an olive grove on the top of a rocky hill. All sorts of creative and interesting spaces to entertain and enjoy. Way too much for 2 people - not sure how much work Salvador and his wife Gala actually did themselves on the property - probably none. Way too busy painting and making art. I stayed for over two hours and had a very relaxing walk around the outside areas - just enjoying the lovely elevated sea views. The little bay is very beautiful and great protected flat water.
    So of course after the house visit - it was time for my last swim. I ended up walking to another little bay further north around the peninsula. The beaches were pebbles and small rounded rocks - not too bad on your feet - but certainly not sand. It was a warm day - not hot - very comfortable heat and only a very gentle breeze. The water was really quite warm - well into the twenties - clear - rocky bottom with seagrass type weed patches. No sign of any fish. And it was shallow for a long way - I swam for well over 100m out and it was only about 2 .5m deep. I walked to the next little bay further north which was again very pretty and very private.
    By this time I’m getting hungry / hangry so decided to return to Cadaques for food and drinks. I was surprised how busy and vibrant it was down by the water. A lovely long esplanade lined wall to wall with restaurants and a bit of fashion / tourism retail traders. And it was busy - but not crazy busy. There was a 2nd hand market - a bit like Bittern but a little more upmarket if you know what I mean! Found a seafood restaurant with a great view and importantly accessible power to charge my phone. My battery is discharging way too fast and the phone is too warm - something going on. I had a beaut meal of grilled sardines again. Getting a taste for them and quizzed the owner, when paying, about how they cooked them - so I’ll definitely be trying some on our charcoal grill (Tess will be thrilled!! Haha).
    By this time it’s 5:30 so I set off to catch my 6pm bus back to Figueres.
    All up - a bloody great day again!!
    Tomorrow I’m on the move back to Barcelona. Yay really excited - my 3 nights stay will be insane. I’ve got a fantastic location for my digs right central and walking distance to most of my target interests.
    En savoir plus

  • Day 54 - Figueres - Dali

    10 octobre, Espagne

    This will be special!!
    Definitely a highlight for me in terms of my excitement and expectations of seeing some really special art. Who didn’t have a Dali poster in the 70’s!! He has certainly been a strong influence in my passion for creative imagery and a vivid colour palette.
    The gallery here in this stunningly beautiful place called Figueres was designed by Dali himself in his latter years. He spent most of his working life in this area. Tomorrow I go to his actual house and studio where he and his wife lived for many years.
    En savoir plus

  • Today my mission is to get to Figueres - sounds easy enough. But I have not made it easy for my self in my planning of this leg of my Spanish journey. So far I’ve only been travelling in Spain on ALSA buses. I can’t quite remember the details - but in the end I’m bussing to Barcelona - then training to Figueres. And this involves complicated transfers. My logistics for the day are crazy.
    I started with a sunrise beach walk in Tarragona - my digs were out from the city centre - but right opposite a big lovely sandy beach with rolling waves and warm water. Sunrises are late in Spain - I’m not sure why - but it’s well after 8 before the sun popped up out of the sea. It was a cool morning (coolest I’ve experienced so far). Beach almost deserted. I had my gear - but you know - I didn’t get in - I felt cold and just didn’t have the urge. A bit slack. So I just walked back to my digs and decided after a call to Tess that I’d make tracks for the bus station to catch an earlier bus to Barcelona. Unfortunately ALSA only had two buses to Barcelona and the first had already departed. My bus was scheduled for 4:20. So I a few hours available for sightseeing etc. I found the nearest place to store my pack (not at the bus depot which was disappointing - but only 10min away).
    Tarragona turned out to be a lovely port city. It reminded me of Wollongong - big ships sitting out off the coast waiting entry to the busy port.
    I chased art and a bit of sightseeing as I quickly walked my way around the harbour and the old city. Stumbled across some lovely old city plaza’s and lanes and markets and all sorts. The day was beautiful - warm but not hot and humid. I had a great time and came away from Tarragona with positive vibes.
    Picked up my pack and headed for the bus depot. Bus station pretty busy but ok. Call up board indicated my bus and platform number - all good. Waiting, waiting, waiting checking board. Waiting - now past 4:30. Bus details disappeared from display - nothing. I’m getting anxious - ask a few people until someone seems to understand English - oh there’s been a delay.
    Without going into all the details - I had an extremely anxious bus an train travel experience between Tarragona to Barcelona - then train trip between Barcelona and Figueres. My anxiety was due to the situation that my hotel accommodation in Figueres had a last check in time of 9pm. My delayed bus meant my arrival in Barcelona and then transfer from the bus depot to Barcelona’s central train station was also delayed. I was looking at an arrival in Figueres after midnight. That did not go down well with the hotel. I’m on the bus sending messages that I had to translate into Spanish (I learned later that the language used here is actually Catalan). Anyway the answer was “No”. This was even after I said I’d sleep rough on their front door. This was all happening while on my first phase of travel on the bus between Tarragona and Barcelona!
    I just kept telling myself to just get my self to Figueres ASAP. Next I had to catch a subway to Barcelona Sants station. That was hard enough but got there by about 9. My next challenge was finding the right platform for Figueres. Finally found someone in an official vest and was told which platforms 13&14. So with a ticket I’d purchased on line while on the bus - I made a dash to the platforms and saw Figueres on the call up screen. That was such a relief! Problem was though that my ticket was for another train (high speed) from another platform and leaving until 11. On the platform I managed to find a young man who spoke pretty good English. He turned out to be my saviour! He explained about my ticket situation and I explained about my predicament. He said get on this train - it will get to Figueres by 10. So I jumped on without the right ticket and asked if I could sit with him. As it turned out there were heaps of spare seats. William or the Spanish equivalent was brilliant - he worked for a management consultancy as a systems analyst (doing his Masters part time in mathematics and computing). So we had a lot in common!! I got him to write a plead text to the hotel explaining my situation and that I’d be at the hotel shortly after 10. This is his message in Catalan.

    Buenas trades, he conseguido cambiar el billete de tren y llegaré a la estación de Rodalies a las 21:40 según Renfe. Voy en un Media Distancia de la R11. Veo que son unos 10 minutos andando hasta el hotel, así que llegaría sobre las 21:50 ~ 22h.

    Ya he proporcionado los datos para el check-in y pagado a través de esta app.

    Si aún así no me pudiera esperar hasta que pueda llegar, ¿habría alguna otra manera de que me diese las llaves? ¿Aunque tenga que desplazarme hasta alguna otra ubicación de Figueres?

    ¡Muchas gracias de antemano!

    It worked! They responded and said they wait. William also drafted a short message to send as soon as the train arrived at the Figueres station. He got off at 3 stops before Figueres. According to Google I had a 15min walk to the hotel. I was there in less than 10. And THANKFULLY they were there waiting. Man what a relief!
    I tell you it was the most stressful few hours on my Odyssey. Probably because I know what I could be in having to spend a night roughing it like I did in Alghero.
    Turns out my digs are really great. Best ever location - smack in the middle of town. The owners are elderly and don’t speak any English. But after much heart tapping and gestures of gratitude - all seems OK.
    I desperately needed food and hydration - so at almost 11pm I went searching for food.
    En savoir plus

  • Today is my second full day wondering through the city in pursuit of art and culture. My first stop is the Museum of Contemporary Art. You’d think a good place to start - and as it turned out there were some works that appealed to my interests and styles. But generally the works were a bit dated - but nonetheless incredible pieces of art and amazing talent by the artists. Just not my genre. Fortunately today I got some decent visits to three museums/galleries and saw some interesting works. Took lots of photos.
    My stop for mid afternoon was to visit the amazing Arts & Science Centre. Wow it is an incredible architectural and structural engineering set of buildings and waterscapes connecting them all together. I only walked around all the free access areas - there were tickets for the three separate buildings and their activities. I just didn’t have enough time.
    But it certainly is an iconic feat of construction and architecture.
    Time was getting on and I wanted to have a decent meal today - so I caught a bus back into the central market area where I’d been informed were lots of great restaurants. I susssed out a couple before going for the local favourite seafood paella. Great but not fantastic. I’m just too fussy with my food!
    It’s almost 10pm - I’m in my POD and feeling pretty content. I’ve had a great day and can say that I’ve enjoyed my stay in Valencia. One major regret is not getting to the beach. I should have not gone to the harbour yesterday - but instead gone to the beach.
    I’ll make up for that on my next stop tomorrow - Tarragona. My digs are really close to the beach - so I’ll definitely be swimming if not late tomorrow - then early Friday.
    En savoir plus

  • I am a day behind in my journaling - yesterday was a bit of an R&R day. Slept in until 9. Had a walk to find a half decent place for breakfast (there doesn’t appear to be many cafes and restaurants in my vicinity - yet I’m quite central to the city). Came back to the POD and actually used a washing machine for the second time in 8 weeks.
    Then I went out and purchased a 48 hour Metro Card. So now I can travel around this busy city at ease. There’s a great subway and bus network. My first destination was the harbour. When I got there - it was not that great - I might have missed the main marina. It was surprisingly quiet although I could see there was a massive outdoor pavilion area with tables and chairs being set up for a meal and stage entertainment. Next I ventured into the city centre. Again a little disappointed. The main civic centre was occupied by yet again another tent embassy style protest. It’s the third I’ve seen in Spain. Tents packed into the central square or plaza - people protesting about lack of housing. These are people who are not the homeless sleeping rough beggars - these are people - mainly young - who are struggling to find accommodation. Unfortunately tourism is part of the problem. So I did feel a bit uncomfortable. And it’s something I’ve noticed in the hostels - often the guests are actually locals - Spanish people with no home or rental property. They have jobs or pensions - but can’t find rent.
    My next mission was local art. So again I struggled finding galleries. After what I thought was reasonable research using my AI apps and Google Maps - I set out to a gallery that had a reputation for supporting emerging local artists. Vangard Gallery - it was in the Russafa District. So after a bus trip - followed by a reasonable walk I arrived to find it open and clearly hosting an opening exhibition (business men in suits drinking champagne) so I got quite excited. However when I got in and started walking through - I soon realised it was really quite a small gallery and was only showing works that were more installation style rather than paintings. So after less than 5 minutes I was out again! So disappointing yet again! Tomorrow I’ll focus on museums.
    Caught a combination of bus and trains back to my digs and then went searching for a half decent place for dinner. Oh boy I think it was one of those days when things just didn’t go right. Had a half decent Chinese meal right opposite a big hospital near my digs.
    The interesting part of my day occurred when I got back to the POD where I recognised a fellow with one leg and was pushing a wheelchair with a lady. I actually saw them the night before where I was eating - they turned up. But the interesting thing was that the guy then went away and five minutes later turned up with another older lady in a wheelchair. It’s not something you forget - and I actually offered him some assistance to transfer the older lady from the wheelchair to a seat at the restaurant. Anyway - it turns out they are staying at the POD too. Without going into details here - I ended up spending a couple of hours with them hearing their story. Too much to retell here - but pretty saddening and it seems quite the reality here in Spain. He was Tony - motorcycle accident 20 years ago - smashed up as he described it - lost sight in one eye and can’t smell. Christina was his girlfriend - she had some form of cyst or tumour in here brain - surgery was performed but unsuccessfully leaving her with stroke like symptoms - no use of left arm and very limited walking - she had a brace sort of device on left leg - but pretty much was only mobile in a wheelchair. The older lady was Helena - she was of German descent - her Spanish husband had died a few years back. Apparently they had some kind of business and were financially OK. Not sure what happened to here - but she had her right leg bandaged up and was having treatment in the hospital nearby. She was like a mother to Tony - I initially thought she was his mother as that’s how he first described her to me on the first night I met them.
    Hostels seem to be places where you meet down and desperate people as well as travellers. I met quite a few people in Valencia. I was the only person who talked to anyone. So it was interesting to hear their stories. Another guest my age - Nadil I think his name was. Turned out he was from Morocco where he trained in medicine. Ended up being a gynaecologist in Paris. Married 5 times - 3 children to two of the wives (2 to first - older now) and a 4 year old to the last. All marriages ended. He was now retired - travelling back to visit Morocco. He was a man with self described mental health problems. He told me much about his life - he was clearly very bitter towards women. His mother who he adored and because of her encouragement he became a doctor did a terrible thing to him. He obviously was quite wealthy or certainly made good money. He bought a house in Morocco - his mother talked him into transferring ownership to her. Which he did - the shortly afterwards she transferred ownership to her sister. This created problems in the family and Nadil was taken to court - alleging he slapped his mother. Cut to the short - he lost that house. He told me other things about his broken marriages and now his toxic attitude towards women. I defended women and tried to convince him that not all women were as he seemed to think and experience. I was glad to say goodbye - but I wished him well.
    Then there was the Italian guy. Another strange fellow with very peculiar eating habits - I never got to the bottom of what was going on with him - but in hindsight - he may have been on some special medications - when I was leaving yesterday - he had a medical type tray with a plastic bag that looked like had blood in it?? It was very dark red / brownish looking - almost the colour of a liver!! Again I was glad to say goodbye. And he stank!! You meet all sorts in hostels!!
    En savoir plus

  • Day 50 - Alicante to Valencia

    5 octobre, Espagne

    My journey up the south east coast of Spain presses on northbound. Home of the famous orange Valencia. And boy did I see 1000’s of trees. Like alongside the main highway coming into Valencia for I recon at least 10 Km - it was just all orange trees as far as the eye could see.
    But let’s go back to Alicante where I spent most of the day. I was gutted when I found out that the tribute museum to the very famous around the world yacht race was closed on Mondays. I’ve had the same experience with galleries- don’t come Mondays.
    So I visited the local castle atop the steep hill overlooking the city. It was OK - but not my preferred place to visit.
    At 4 I caught another ALSA bus to Valencia - about 2.5 hours drive without a stop.
    I’ve got 3 nights here - I’ve given myself some extra time to get to see more than just one or two attractions.
    En savoir plus

  • My only full day here in Alicante and I’ve devoted pretty much all it to hang out on Tabarac Island for a few swims and enjoyment of the scenery. It’s a very small island and is Spain’s first ever marine sanctuary established in 1964. Ferry ride was nice - water was almost glassy but the was a swell and the relatively small catamaran moved around quite a bit. The crew had to get a few spew bags out. I set off in quick pace determined to circumnavigate the island. It was a beautiful day - a bit overcast with clouds - perfect for photos. As it turned out it took probably only 2-3 hours to walk around. The north coast was more rugged and surf rolling in while the south side was protected more and the waters flatter. There were a few small groups of swimmers with SUP accompanying - clearly dedicated swimmers. As it turned out I saw them all latter. They were a swim crew from Alicante who do this swim on a regular basis. Just friends etc and a mix of ages and experiences. They just swam the southern shore - end to end - about 2Km. I just did a couple of short swims in the coves. Those pesky nibbling fish were about again if you stopped for too long. Saw a few other fish - but nothing really big or different even though it’s a sanctuary. I was expecting more.
    There is a small community that live permanently on the island - but it’s really all about tourism and restaurants everywhere!! A lot were closed and those that were open - business was quiet. All up a great day out in the open and by the sea. A very flat island - so no look out points - but lovely scenery. Return trip back - the spew bags got used by a few!!
    En savoir plus

  • Day 48 - Grenada to Alicante

    3 octobre, Espagne

    Slowly making my way north. Bound for the coast again and yes another water activity booked for tomorrow. Today is travel.
    Had a beaut night last night at the Flamenco show. It was in a small theatre - probably less than 100 in the audience. The setting wasn’t what you’d call intimate - raised stage - but the performances dominated. It was interesting to watch the performers really psyche themselves up to find that passion and emotion that comes from deep inside. They really did put so much into each and every part of their performances. Very worth while experience for me.

    So I’m currently on the bus and so disappointed I’m not in a window seat. We’ve passed some incredible scenery and my favourites - amazing clouds everywhere. Seating is assigned and the bus is pretty much packed. Everyone is sleeping or watching a video on the in-seat screens like on aeroplanes. Such a pity. But there’s always another time. Doing some messing around on my video editing app - Flamenco Slow just dropped.

    Update on the bus journey. We’re an hour and a half into our trip. The scenery is stunning. But I just can’t get a window shot to do it justice. Almost desert, then rolling hills, mountains in the background and a sky filled with a wild mix of clouds and patches of blue. It’s really beautiful. It’s also interesting to note how much of the open land is farmed with beautiful rows of trees - Olive and fruit I guess. I’ve just taken a photo of the map location.
    En savoir plus

  • Day 47 - Grenada

    2 octobre, Espagne

    Today is dedicated to sightseeing. The Alhambra is my primary interest - but seems - due to my slackness to not book ahead - it will probably not happen. I’ll still go and walk about and make a nuisance of myself in attempting to get entry. Otherwise there’s plenty happening around and about. I’ll just wonder. I’ve booked a Flamenco Show for tonight’s entertainment. And I’ve just booked The Louvre in Paris for Friday 16 - no problems there. Also checked that I had actually booked for the Dali exhibitions / museums in Figueres - yes all good there. So I can look forward to those activities.
    Arrived without any logistical difficulties in Grenada - 30 min walk from bus depot to digs was the hardest part. Legs and knees all good. Lemon & Green hotel is very funky and colourful and new. Room is nice - pretty small but compared to Nerja - bliss and lots of fresh air with all windows opened. Had a great sleep. I’m just having a light breakfast (included) - I’m the only one up and about and it’s already almost 9am!!
    En savoir plus

  • Day 46 - Nerja then Grenada

    1 octobre, Espagne

    I am now swimming in the Alboran Sea. It’s the most south western part of the Mediterranean. It’s currently 7:11am and I’m sitting in a little corner cafe that’s full of men chatting away, having a coffee and smoking. I’m up early escaping from the sauna like conditions I slept in last night. It’s the worst I’ve ever experienced. But surprisingly I got some good quality deep sleep for the first few hours - so feeling good. I escaped about 6am with intention of getting some sunrise photos. But I’ve learned that the sunrise doesn’t occur until after 8!! So I’ve a bit of time to kill. I actually had to return to the dorm to get my wallet - man to get back into that atmosphere was such a shock after being out in the fresh morning air. How I managed to sleep in that was absolutely crazy. I wouldn’t want to do that to my body again. That’s behind me now. I’ve got so much to look forward to today.
    This place is really beautiful. It’s bigger than I expected - but the natural beauty of the little cove like beaches scattered along a rocky coastline still dominates the aesthetic. So I’ll explore a couple after a few photos.
    Tonight my digs (hotel for 2 nights thankfully!!) are in Granada. A big bustling city inland - but from all accounts a great place to visit. The Alhambra is the main attraction. Unfortunately I didn’t pre booked and may struggle with entry. It’s extremely popular with tourists. I get there by a 2-3 hour bus ride.
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  • Crazy busy morning walking around town chasing art at Galleries and Museums. It was very frustrating trying to find art that I wanted see. Ended up walking way more than my legs and knees wanted. Spent too much on entries - but just had to suck it up and press on. Could have gone to a Picasso Museum - in the end I didn’t - now I feel disappointed I didn’t - but I was on a mission to find my style of art instead. A few got me excited. In the end I ran out of time and legs. Got to see and feel Malaga city. It’s really lovely. A great mix of old and new. Great street system - dedicated bike paths etc. Wonderful gardens and trees everywhere. The smell of fresh cut flowers was really refreshing. A thoroughly modern and sophisticated city with tasteful historical architecture integrated with a vibrant culture. Very nice.
    But I had a bus to catch to Nerja - about 80 odd Km north of Malaga on the coast and reported as having some beautiful beaches. How could I resist!
    And sure enough- the place is just gorgeous. Busier than expected - but just so vibrant. I had a quick swim after arriving just before 6pm. Water was clear, sandy beach and flat water. Really looking forward to a decent early morning swim tomorrow.
    I’m currently at an Italian restaurant having finished a gnocchi and gorgonzola with asparagus dish with a glass of local red wine. It’s 10:40pm and I should be in bed - but this place has such an atmosphere. So I’ve decided to treat myself to a dessert of coconut ice cream with a liqueur. I’m sure I’ll have a great sleep - even if it’s in a mixed dorm of 12 beds. From memory I think this is my cheapest accommodation 22€ for the night.
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  • Day 44 - Casablanca to Malaga

    29 septembre, Maroc

    Farewell to Casablanca and Morocco. I’m so glad I had my little holiday away from the Mediterranean. Another dream destination that I just couldn’t not visit while so close to my EpiMedOdy. The deviation was a highlight for me - especially the desert.
    But press on I must. So much more in front of me. Spain is a country I’ve devoted the next two weeks. A good amount of time to cover a hop scotch trip travelling mainly along the coast from Malaga in the south all the way up to Figueres in the north east then back to Barcelona.
    Today is a train trip from Casablanca to Rabat - then a flight to Malaga. That’s the easy part. The hard bits, sometimes, is navigating public transport to make the connections and then finding the actual address of my digs. Has been challenging and I’ve got a lot coming up in Spain - I’ve just checked - 7. My pack is now pretty much at capacity - so I’m lugging 10kg or so.
    I’ve had a really great experience in Morocco. Everyone warned me about personal safety and pick pocketing etc - but you -I did not have one bad or unpleasant experience. Quite the opposite. Everyone who I engaged with were falling over themselves trying to help me or ask me questions about myself and Australia. I had fun negotiating with the sales people - so I have made some purchases for the first time. And get this - I also managed to do a trade - got rid of some stuff that I knew I didn’t need and purchased some traditional clothes to bring home. That was fun and a great experience. I just kept smiling and let myself enjoy the exchange. One thing I’ve learned - go in super super low on first few offers. Always finish on his price above your last offer - or call it - walk away. Sometimes they will then chase for more negotiation. I just treated it with respect and fun.
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  • My second full day - a swim in the Atlantic is my objective for the day and to spend all my local currency - Moroccan Dirham. Much of it might go in taxi’s as the best swimming beach is over an hour and half walk. Today I’m trying to rest my legs and feet - they’ve copped it in the last two days.
    Caught a local bus to the nearest half decent beach about 2-3km south of where I am. The beach is called Plage Lalla Meryam. Had a dip - quite a rip running along the beach and the tide was coming in quickly. As I was getting out some young surfers suddenly appeared and started catching some nice waves. They were pretty good and got some high air coming off lips.
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  • I’ve been doing a little research on the famous film - Casablanca in which Rick’s Cafe was actually just a stage setting made up in Hollywood. There is no real such place here in Casablanca. What was created here is a copy, of sorts, of Rick’s Cafe that was established by an expat American in 2004. Since then the legend has grown to where today people flock to have a meal or see a show at the place. Not sure whether I can be bothered. It is however very close to where I’m staying - so who knows??
    Today I went in search of local art - but didn’t get to any half decent galleries or studios or exhibitions. I started walking and ended up cabbing. Did some shopping for the first time. So I now need to start abandoning stuff to offset the extra weight.
    In the end I succumbed - it was so close by and convenient - so I went for a late sitting dinner at Rick’s Cafe. It was Sunday night 9pm - pretty late for me after a couple of big days with lots of walking.
    First impressions - art deco - lots of white columns - central open space with a second floor open on all four sides to the main opening below. I’m sure there’s an architectural term to explain it better. I sat on my own at a second floor table and could look down to the tables and entertainment. Lovely curved stairs to upper level. Next impression was the number of all male waiters dressed in black pants, crisp white shirts and of course they all wore the traditional Fes hats dark red with black tassels. Very swish! Service was great - I had filet Mignon medium on a bed of spinach and mushrooms. It was served with a side of additional vegetables. Wine was out of my league - so ordered a local brewed craft beer from Essaouira. Dom Perion was top of the list at 9900MAD ($1500AUD approx). And if Don reads this - the beer was definitely NOT up to your standards!! It reminded me a bit of my second brew haha.
    My meal was pretty decent and I had a lovely fried pineapple inspired desert.
    The entertainment was a 3 piece group female vocals and two guys on guitar and another stringed instrument very similar to a guitar - but not a guitar if you know what I mean.
    So in summary - glad I did it for the bragging rights - but really not that special. The vibe was very subdued - nice for a romantic couple - but on this occasion for me going solo - fish out of water. 460MAD - the most expensive meal on my Odyssey.
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  • Well not exactly - but it was first class rail between Marrakesh and Casablanca. About 3 hours. It was very comfortable - very modest - but ran on time and was relaxing for me. Today is another transit to a new stopover on my journey. Casablanca will be my last stay in Morocco - 3 nights and at this stage with no activities booked. I’m not going to chase action based experiences here - more sight seeing and maybe some art and cultural attractions.
    My digs here are very cool. Definitely the grooviest so far. Very colourful and interesting set out. The location is just inside the Medina walls - so very central to the city and harbour. Will definitely explore the waterfront area tomorrow.

    And I just realised when checking what day it is (at times I just don’t know!!) I realised it’s another milestone date. Today I am exactly 69.5. How’s that eh and celebrating by myself with a quiet meal in the restaurant attached to the hotel. The more I check this place out - the more I love it. The architecture and decor are very cool!
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  • Day 40 - Agafay Desert

    26 septembre, Maroc

    I just had to do it! I loved the Mergouza camel experience so much - so I last minute booked a sunset Agafay Desert experience - and it included quads. And it was only 19€!! As it turned out it’s definitely been the best value for money by far. I had an absolute blast!!

    Yesterday is certainly right up there for one of my best experiences.
    I’m now, believe it or not, on the “Marrakech Express” - travelling 1st Class rail to Casablanca - how cool is that!!

    So I’m using the time to put together my images and videos from yesterday. The activity started in Marrakesh at 2:00pm with a small bus to Agafay Desert about 1 hour away. The activity was promoted as including a camel ride, quad ride, cultural experience, meal and entertainment. Sounded too good to resist. My pickup point was close to my digs and easy access. Our guide was Mostapha - he was such a personality making up for his unfortunate physical disability. He was incredibly confident and commanded such respect from everyone.
    The camel ride was not much more than a photo shoot - trekked about 500m - took photos and trekked back. At least the saddles were really comfy.
    The quad bikes was a whole different situation. We were out for just under an hour. It was a perfect time of day to ride and the sunset was just glorious. Sun setting and full moon rising at the same time. Just magic desert like terrain - but not sand dunes - rather clay and gravel / rocks etc. still very scenic. Unfortunately for me I was matched up with a French woman who was my passenger and she just freaked out at the slightest bit of pace or me trying to fang it a bit. Not like my Spanish friends who really raced around creating dust everywhere. The scarves were not costumes - we needed them. I still got sore eyes from dust. But it was such fun and just amazing scenery and light.
    Dinner was pretty good compared to others that I’ve had. Then the show began and people got into party mode with dancing to the traditional music that was highly amplified and very load.
    To finish off there was a pretty cool flame inspired performance by two artists who did some pretty amazing stuff including flame eating and pyrotechnics sort of stuff.
    All up a fantastic activity. Started at 2pm finished at 10pm. By the time I got back to my Riad - I was very happy and tired. Even on the bus ride home everyone was making all sorts of noise and generally in a great party mood.
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  • Drive baby drive! And we did today - more than we expected with some interesting stops.
    Not far out of Quarzazate I saw in the distance a massive vertical shimmering structure - almost like a space rocket - but clearly so much bigger. It’s actually the main structure of the world’s largest concentrated solar power plant. It’s an impressive and very important project for Morocco.
    Our main stop today is at a very famous old city in the middle of nowhere called Ait Ben Haddou. Incredible old city with much history - but in more recent times has been the backdrop location for some memorable movies. And of course the most famous of all - Lawrence of Arabia. So I was an instant celebrity with the locals and tour group.
    We walked around the city - watched an artist make a magic painting using sugar dissolved paints that when he made the painting just looked a wash of nothing on the paper. He then heated the paper over a flame and desert scene appeared like magic. I bought it from him for 150 MAD (about $20).
    Next we drove to another village for our last lunch together. It was our best meal of the trip. Lots of food starting with bread and olives and spicy paste, chicken tangine, meat balls in a really nice sauce, pizzas, chips, the best chicken skewers. Then dessert was grapes and melon. Beautiful. The only thing missing was a beer or wine. Not allowed unless with special license.
    Next was our drive across and through the Atlas Mountains - an incredibly long mountain range. I must say our passage across was interesting - but not as awesome as I was expecting.
    We stopped at a couple of places for final photos because our next stop was Marrakesh.
    I’m in the old Medina part of Marrakesh - it’s crazy crazy busy and full on. I had a bit of trouble finding my digs - but finally found the place. Was dead tired and hot as. So had a nice cold shower and then a rooftop meal before an early night. I needed sleep!!
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  • Day 38 - Mergouza to Quarzazate

    23 septembre, Maroc

    Another wonderful day.
    Started with a shock for me - I slept in and had to be woken up by a fellow member of our group.
    Missed the 4:30am breakfast but made it in time to mount my camel for our return ride back to Mergouza. Enjoyed a beautiful sunrise in the desert.
    We said our farewells to the camels and loaded ourselves into the van / bus (our group is 15 people) and set off for our next highlight.
    Today is a road trip day stopping off at various places on our journey to Marrakech.
    Stops included going into an historical underground tunnel system built to access irrigation water. More recently the tunnels were used as settings in the filming of the movie Dune.
    Then a river emerging from the ground at a massive vertical faced rift. Creating a source of water sustaining the farmland alongside the river.
    Date palms, fruit and vegetables grown.
    We had lunch in the local casbah restaurant and then a tour of the actual farm plots of the village. We walked around their alleyways and paths connecting the houses to their plots.
    Next we were subjected to entrapment to the local carpet salesmen pushing his friendly sales pitch with free tea and a brief history lesson. No one purchased anything.
    Our next stop was our stay overnight location just outside Quarzazate. It’s an old resort style place - very big - even has a pool that a couple of us swam in. It would have been quite grand when built - but is a little run down. Pleasant enough compared to last night’s stuffy insect crawling tents in the desert!! Haha. Included buffet style food was nothing special - but after another long day we were keen to tuck into before an early night. We’ve got a 7am breakfast and departure for Marrakech. Atlas Mountains will be a highlight.
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  • Today I start my camel safari. It’s not like I’m going to be on a camel travelling between Fez and Marrakesh - but we do have a sunset ride for an hour or so today. It’s another long day in a bus - about 9 hours all up. As per plan we arrived in Mergouza (northwestern Sahara Desert) in enough time to have our fantastic sunset camel experience. It was really beautiful. The sand dunes are so massive and the sand is really fine and moved with a soft silky texture and in the setting sun almost shimmered like gold.
    We also stopped for some sand boarding down the dunes on an old snow board. That was fun. We had a self serve bistro style meal - all very nice and then a bit of entertainment around a fire pit and big circle of sand. African style drums being the only instrument and a bit of Arabic song. Our digs are individual tent like structures on concrete pads and lined with garish traditional fabric. Hot and stuffy - so probably won’t sleep too well. I had to leave my door open to let some cool fresh air in - but also let in the night insects - I wasn’t alone on my bed!! And we’re up at 4:30 for an early start. Driving towards Marrakech but staying overnight along the way. It’s been absolutely beautiful and just what I was hoping for - so very happy.
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  • Day 36 - Fez Morocco

    21 septembre, Maroc

    After a huge day I’m settled into my digs. I must say my endurance and patience were certainly put to the test - but in the end I got to my digs using the public bus from the airport - getting off at the nearest stop to my digs - then walked the remaining few km. Google Maps - amazing.

    I might have missed a day - I’m still fuzzy. It’s 4:48am and I’m trying to sort out Moroccan cash. It’s like Albania here in Morocco - everything in the local currency MAD or dirham (sic?). I’ve purchased 2000MAD - and a dodgy card that I’ll need to figure out as well!
    I’ll need some more clear head and conversations with other tourists.

    Today I’m off to Chefchaouen on a mini bus tour. It was going to be my acclimatisation day and sightseeing around Fez - but Penny talked me into Chefchaouen - the blue village. I had seen references to it - but it was a bit out of the way. But I couldn’t resist the chance - so did a late booking a couple of days ago. Plus it was cheap and included transfers (and we all know how demanding they can be!!). It’s a 4 hour drive each way - so plenty of time to take in the scenery and hopefully quiz other tourists about managing the cash system.
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