Travel 2020 - TBC

janeiro 2020 - maio 2024
Uma aventura indeterminada pela George Leia mais
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  • Dia 31

    Sri Lanka —> India —> Alleppey

    5 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    I woke up at 3:30 worried that I wasn’t going to get up or that we weren’t going to be able to get an Uber. After last night, we had very little faith left in Uber and the guys accepting the rides. We both got up at 4am and got ourselves ready, but once again we had an Uber disaster. Drivers were accepting our request to go to the airport, but they were either cancelling or telling us to cancel...they obviously don’t know how it works. They were also asking for us to tell them where we were, which again is pointless as they know from the request. I was all for waking to the Airport, it would take about an hour. We even downloaded the local version of Uber but they were no better, The guy who accepted calling us basically to say he wasn’t coming. After half an hour lost, I said that we needed to start walking, and that we’d just hitchhike to the airport. We set off walking with all our stuff, but ran immediately into a problem. There were dogs, lots of dogs, and not the nice kind; these were viscous and barking at us just for being in the road at 4:30. We had to change our route, but all along it there were dogs making their way towards us on the road and barking right at us. I’m not usually scared of dogs, but when they outnumbered us, it was pretty bad - Jennie would have decided to just miss the flight rather than face them. During all this, Tom has managed to summon an Uber, so we decided to walk towards where he was coming from and eventually found him and got inside...safe from the dogs.

    We finally got to the airport at 5am...it had taken an hour to do 3 kilometres. With the recent outbreak of Coronavirus, there were a lot of people wearing masks, both passengers and security staff. We didn’t have such a luxury, but Tom had read that they actually don’t do anything and it was contact, so we kept our bottle of hand sanitiser close by. We got through all security, spent the last of our Sri Lankan Rupees on one piece of Banana bread, which was amazing, and then we did the standard spray ourselves with as much aftershave testers as possible so we’d smell good - even for just a few hours. The flight was only an hour, but it was a massive plane with screens and everything. We made the most of the games on the screens, we even got a snack on the plane and before we knew it, we were landing in India!

    For some reason, there was a mad rush by the other passengers (all either Indian or Sri Lankan) to get up and get their luggage, even when the doors were still sealed shut. We walked the bridge to the terminal building and the first thing we were asked by a guard was “are you from China?”....close but no. We went to the E-Visa line and we had a little interview from an officer with all the usual questions and boom, we were in. We’d heard about the ‘selfie culture’ in India and how they love having westerners in their pictures and videos. After we got our SIM cards, the guy in the shop next door asked us if we could be videoed saying “happy birthday Malou”, so we did of course hoping this sort of request wouldn’t be every 10 minutes for the next two months. We got some cash and headed for the bus stop trying to get to Alleppey for the famous backwaters. We managed to get on a bus which was going to Vythilla which we were told we could then change and get to Alleppey. It didn’t take too long to see how much traffic there was in India, but it was as expected. We changed buses onto a ‘Superfast’ local bus which was totally open sided. After a slow start, we then realised where this type of bus got its name...the driver was driving like a lunatic, Weaving in and out of traffic as if in a sports car, not a 10 tonne bus. I decided that it was best to not even look at what was happening on the road, and in truth, we both managed to get a bit of sleep on this bus. After 90 minutes we got into Alleppey and happily got off the bus with our lives still ahead of us, we went to a Airtel store to sort Toms phone out which was relatively painless and then immediately started bargaining for a Tuktuk (something we would have to get used to now we don’t have one 😀🛺). We had been told that anything less than 100 was a good price to our hostel and the guy that stopped agreed to do it for 80...after we had to show him the exact location of the hostel on a map, give him the exact address and even their phone number for him to call... Tom began to get a little short with him, “are you going to take us or not”... and eventually he did. He had a very fancy speaker system built into his TukTuk, which he begun to blast music out of! Firstly he played Indian music, then LMFAO’s ‘I’m sexy and I know it’ and then Snoop Dog’s ‘Drop it like its hot’...as we passed through the busy streets of Alleppey we were mortified and almost embarrassed to be in a TukTuk with this clearly crazy guy who was dancing around at the front of his TukTuk, with no hands on the handles and clearly not looking at the roads. We definitely missed being in control of the TukTuk at that point and certainly missed Greta!

    We arrived at Bucket List Hostel, a cool looking place on the edge of the Backwaters and checked in. We met Lily from San Diego, and we all fancied going out for some food close by, so walked along the edge of the Backwaters to a row of little shops. Unfortunately, they were more breakfast places, so we ended up just grabbing some samosas and other things from a tiny place run by and old husband and wife, and the food was really nice. We went back to the hostel and chilled for an hour before we three decided that we should go to the beach for sunset. We jumped in a Tuktuk and made our way there, not expecting amazing things as we’d just had some really special beaches in Sri Lanka, but there was barely any litter, the sand was soft and white and it was surprisingly beautiful. We of course went for a swim and the water was gorgeous, if a little rough. We just chilled here for an hour getting some good tips for the west coast of America from Lily and getting to know her a bit more. She was between jobs so took a month to come to India. Lily was on the hunt for a beer, so we managed to find one but we didn’t feel like one after the day we’d had, so we all had the classic chat about each other’s countries...and if course the conversation came onto both Trump and Brexit - enough said!

    We all went back to the beach for sunset, the sun disappearing into the haze on the horizon. We were all hungry, so we decided to try out a recommended place in town which was a couple of kilometres away. The walk was interesting, seeing our first part of a classic Indian street, everything and anything being sold. Annoyingly when we got to the place it had run out of curry! Luckily we had another one to go to which did have curry, so we got rice, curry, naan all for £1.45 each. Exhausted and stuffed, we jumped in a Tuktuk back to the hostel for some well needed sleep. We got back to find a Finnish guy and Australian girl torn between going further south or doing the backwater tour that we had booked onto. They were doing rock, paper, scissors to decide and then changing their minds, so Tom and I helped them by setting out the pros and cons. Eventually they decided to do the canoeing tour. We all went to bed, hoping that the dangerously low ceiling fan wouldn’t cause anyone damage in the middle of the night. It had been a hectic first day in India, but so far we loved it!
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  • Dia 32

    Alleppey and the Kerala Backwaters

    6 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    I awoke at about 7am, after having an ok first night sleep last night! I threw some clothes on and went outside to see if anything was going on, but the only thing around was the hostel puppy. I went back to the room to wake Tom so we could get ready for our backwaters trip today. We were up and ready for 8am as instructed and waited around at the hostel (with no communication of course). There were 7 of us from the hostel doing the Canoe trip today so we were confident that it would be a good day. Eventually a guy walked through the hostel gates telling us to all follow him, to which we all got up and did exactly that, followed him. He lead us to his TukTuk, where he (without communicating) left us on the side of the road whilst he drove down the road with an empty TukTuk....what was happening? He shortly returned, followed by another TukTuk. The group of 7 split off into the two TukTuks and we made our way to the ferry port where we were issued onto a ferry with all the other white people and some locals. After around 1 hour on the ferry we arrived at our “station” and each got off and were directed to a house where we would be having breakfast.

    The house was very simple (unlike so many of its neighbours) being made from the frame and plasterboard alone, with no plaster or paint to brighten the place up at all. We were served our breakfast of bread and curry with Masala tea and then made our way to board our canoes. It was 6 to a canoe, we were grouped with a couple from Israel and an older couple from France and we managed to get the front seats somehow! We slowly passed through the waterways passing by some beautiful houses and some very basic and saw wives washing clothes in the water, people bathing in the water, washing their pots and pans in the water and fishing with small homemade stick rods. It was very quiet and peaceful with the occasional engine boat passing us. We did this for around 2 hours and then the sun starting blazing down on us and now being at the front didn’t feel like too much of a blessing... we dipped our hands into the water in efforts to cool ourselves down but that wasn’t really working, as we were appreciating the occasional breeze that would pass. At one point I dangled my hand into the water where he obviously felt something stroke past his hand causing him to freak out and shake the entire boat by doing so...it was just a plant, but safe to say I’d never moved so quick! We were dropped off at a shop and bought some snacks, we each had a samosa, a savoury donut thing that we didn’t know the name of and a banana and were quickly back on our canoe to go back to the house where we had breakfast this morning. It was boiling hot, nkt helped by the lack of breeze and the very slow pace we were being canoed along at. When we eventually got back to the plasterboard house, we were served rice with a variation of different curries for lunch and it just kept coming! After lunch we had tea and then went to get the ferry back to the town - all in all a great trip for £10!

    Instead of getting a Tuktuk back to the hostel we decided to stay in the town for a little while and walk back to the hostel. I wanted to find some flip flops and a bag, and I wanted to look for a vest...we both failed in our hunt but instead found some good snacks! The nut-man served us warm peanuts and some sort of wasabi peas, which were delicious and cheap! On the walk we were separately intercepted by a few groups of school kids who found whatever we said hilarious! We eventually got back to our hostel, and chilled out for the rest of the evening.
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  • Dia 33

    Alleppey —> Fort Kochi —> Kochi Airport

    7 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Up at 730, we left the hostel in good time and walked the 2.5km to the bus station. On the journey it started spitting with rain, but we thought we would not get a Tuktuk we would just carry on...with the bus station in sight it started to pour so we made a run for it. In the train station there was a very small shop called “bakery and cool juice bar”, they were also selling naan/chapati bread with some curry, and it was jam packed with locals which is only ever a god sign. We squeeze into the shop putting out big bags underneath the table and sat whilst the food was brought over to us. We ate with our hands of course and the food was delicious and only for 40 rupee each. Stomached no longer empty we asked somebody at the bus station the best way to get to Fort Kochi, a bus to Thoppumpaddy and then change there to Fort Cochin, all together it should cost around 60-70 rupees each. We got on the bus and oh no it was another “super fast” bus! Would we survive? The ticket man happened to be the same man that we just spoke to at the station, we couldn’t get ripped off now!? 45 rupee for bus from Alleppey to Thoppumpaddy and then we found a bus going to Kochi beach and jumped on that as it was still moving, for 10 rupees - so a total of 55 rupees, or about 60p. We were dropped off and then dumped our bags in a nearby hostel after they agreed to do it for no charge (they initially wanted 150 per bag) and then started aimlessly walking around. It was so hot, 33°C according to our phones, but it felt more like 40° due to there being no breeze and it wasn’t helped by the lack of shade as it was midday.

    We walked along the coast and were surprise that locals were just selling tat and there were a lot of older tourists here. We saw the Chinese fishing nets (that neither of us really understood), Fort Cochin beach and then got some shade in St Francis church, where Vasco de Gamas tomb is. Whilst getting ready to leave I felt somebody stroke his back, he thought it was me playing around but it was actually a weird Indian man that had taken a liking to me - weird. We continued to walk around in the heat and after being asked to leave a temple because it was closed we decided to get some food nearby. I did a quick Google and found a local place nearby called Kayees, a local cafe where we went in and were seated next to 2 other Indian guys. We got to talking with them, they were in town on business and we asked them what was good to eat here...they responded with Mutton Biriyani. Shortly after the waiter come over and basically said in very few words that chicken Biriyani was all they had...so our vegetarian stint was now over, however the food was delicious and we ate every bit. We walked around for a bit more after food, but a little slower than we previously were. Before long we were in a street called “Jew street”, where we learnt that Kochi was the oldest Jewish settlement in India. We walked past colourful shops selling spices, antiques and clothing and eventually found a little restaurant where we each ordered a Lassi and enjoyed that in the shade, away from the burning sun. In our British ways, Tom asked the couple behind us if it was okay for me to move the fan in our direction a little, to which the man responded “yes, we mind”, we both laughed and Tom proceeded to spin it around assuming he was joking. He then more seriously said “I said I do mind, air is so important”... (ironic really considering they both lit up cigarette shortly afterwards). Tom spun the fan reassuring them that he wasn’t going to completely take it away from them...what a miserable couple!

    After finishing our lassis we walked back to the hostel where we left our bags, unsure whether we would be charged or not by the guy. We collected our bags and didn’t have to pay (RESULT). With our heavy bags on our backs we made our way to the ferry port where I queued up Indian styled (basically it was carnage) and paid 6 rupees each (6 pence) for the ferry back over to the mainland. We then started to walk to the bus station which was around 1.6 Kilometres away, it felt like we were walking for hours not helped by the fact that Tom’s small bag was completely ripped open meaning he had to hold it shut the entire way. We were once again on the search for a bag shop and Tom had his prayers answered on this journey as we walked past a shop called “Magnet Bags”, We walked in and managed to haggle a bag for 600 rupees, or £6 and managed to get the guy to staple up his old bag so it was easier to manage. With a slight spring in his step we made it towards the bus station, but the staples hadn’t worked. Within two minutes the bag was in pieces again. We quickly got to the bus station and eventually got on a bus going to the airport. Initially, we asked the station master which bus was going via the airport. He said it leave at 18:00,m...not exactly the answer we were looking for but we had time so I thought we could just check later. We tried to find some food, but there was nothing around, so went back to the bus station. As 18:00 was fast approaching I was keen to know which bus. The new station master was just as helpful, so I just started getting on all the buses asking which was going to the airport. Nobody knew, typical, so I went back to our bag pyramid. It was at this point I noticed the place name “Nedumbassery”, which I knew was the airport. As I had already been on this bus to ask I went back and asked another passenger and they confirmed it was the right bus...with about 5 minutes to go we jumped on and got some seats. Thankfully this was an AC bus so it was nice and cool, however, we both got cold as what would usually be a 30 minute journey turned into 2 hours thanks to Kochi and it’s roadworks.

    Eventually we got to the bus stand where we initially got the bus from the airport the other day and we walked to our hotel ‘Alfa Inn’ for the night. We grabbed a veg biriyani on the way back and got some well needed rest as we’d be up early for our flight to Hubli tomorrow morning
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  • Dia 34

    Kochi —> Hampi

    8 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    We were up and out of our hotel room, despite not wanting to get out of the comfy bed, by 440 and arrived at the check-in desk at Kochi international airport just after 5. It was interesting being at the airport with the worry of Coronovirus pretty much global now. People were walking round with masks on and there was definitely a lot of measures being taken to ensure it didn’t spread. We checked into our flight and compared food prices in the airport. To both of our discomfort we ended up sharing a meal from KFC with additional loaded chicken fries, our first western food of the trip and of course it was our most expensive yet (still only like £3.50 total). We boarded our flight to Hubli, it was a propella plane and was probably the smallest plane I have ever been on! The flight took off into the smoggy air that hovered above Kochi and we could see the final stages of the sun rising over the horizon.

    I managed to get some sleep on the plane, my head swinging around in the aisle like a pendulum. After I woke up, we listened to some music and before we knew it the seatbelt lights come back on as we begun our descent into Hubli. It was such a short flight, but had cut out a lot of hassle with trains and buses, all for just £20 too. We got off the plane, walked towards the airport terminal - just a single building - and we were pleasantly surprised that the air was cool...a welcome change from the stifling air in Alleppey. Our bags were first off, so we grabbed them and headed out to grab a Tuktuk to Hubli train station with the intention of going to another town called Hospet where we could then get to Hampi. Unfortunately when we got there at 9am we discovered the only train that day to Hospet was at 13:30! As it was still early and cool enough, we walked to the bus staying a few kilometres away to see if a bus was a better option. We’d been warned about not taking this journey by bus as the road was shocking and it takes over 5 hours. We also found the bus was 120 rupees each compared to the train at 65. We thought we better get the train as it would save money and be pretty similar in time overall. On the way back we grabbed some street food which was amazing - a mix of rice and dhal and raita! This killed plenty of time, along with looking for an ATM (which we didn’t find) so the wait for the train was ok.

    We got our general class tickets and attempted to get on. As it was our first train experience we had no idea, but we got onto general class which was jam packed full of locals and went on the hunt for some seats. We eventually found some, and got sat down, but not even a minute later a man came back and started shouting at us that these were his seats (even though there are no reservations). We were so British about it all and just got up with only a small resistance. We then got on a different carriage which had loads of space, but was a sleeper so our tickets weren’t valid. Oh well, we’d risk it...we got sat down and could have a little relax. We were quickly joined by a bunch of Indian guys who took great interest in us asking loads of questions etc etc. It was basically a three hour train ride/ interview. One of the group was a bit odd and decided to FaceTime his friends and showing he was sat with two white guys clearly saying in Hindi that we were from London over and over again. Anyway, we made it nearly to Hospet when the ticket conductor came round and busted us for being in the wrong carriage - the fine was just the difference between the two tickets, but we just said we’d stand by the door and not pay the extra £0.80 each.

    We got off in Hospet and were met with a barrage of Tuktuk offers, at the same time a tiny woman in a face mask pounced on me demanding information, I asked what fit and she just repeated “INFORMATION!!” I told her I wasn’t giving out information without a reason and we started to haggle for a Tuktuk. She then started video recording us and was on the phone to someone. We assumed it was all to do with Coronavirus, but it was all a bit unofficial. We managed to get a Tuktuk for 175 rupees, down from an initial 1200 and went in search of an ATM. It was a nightmare, none were open or they didn’t have cash, and our Monzo cards didn’t work. I was trying all cards in one ATM and eventually managed to use my trusty NatWest card to get money...as Hampi didn’t have any ATMs it was panic stations for about half an hour. After a short drive we arrived in Hampi, a town famous for its vast expanses of boulder mountains and temples. We got dropped at the south side of the river and we’d heard about the ferry across - but this was not a ferry, it was a tiny rowing boat with a motor on the back and it wasn’t more than 30 meters across the river. To take this, a 40 rupee charge was in place, 20 for the person and 20 for the backpack. After a long day this felt like a bit of a kick in the teeth, but oh well. We got to the other side and actually had a free pickup from the hostel...happy to get our stuff of our backs, we immediately went to a sunset spot near the hostel and chilled for a bit before deciding where we’d go for dinner.
    We didn’t venture far, maybe 50 meters to Nayana hotel, A tiny kitchen shack, but it was well reviewed. We shared a veg thali, masala dosa and poori to try a few things. They were all amazing and we decided there and then that this family would feed us for the next three days as it was also very cheap!

    Exhausted, we chilled in the hostel and met a few cool people including Tobias, a German guy who had been travelling for the last two years. He had already been to Central America and some other places we were interested in, so we just chilled and picked his brains for a bit. Eventually it was time to head to bed as we were going to have a few long days ahead seeing Hampi and the surrounding areas.
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  • Dia 35

    Hampi Temple Exploring

    9 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We woke up after having a pretty good sleep in our double dorm bed, got a breakfast masala dosa at the restaurant we went to last night and then made our way over to Hippie island, where we would get the ferry to cross the river. However, as we were walking a peculiar man approached us, showing us a scatty piece of paper reading “Ear Doctor”, with some references from his previous happy customers and then started to shove a metal instrument into Tom’s ear and started to pull out wax and show me how dirty his ear was....as Tom had blocked ears anyway from the beaches, he thought he’d ask him to do the other ear whilst he was there. We knew the inevitable demand for money was coming, but as soon as he tried it on we walked off...it was his decision to go into Tom’s war in the first place. We began to walk towards the ferry point and noticed 2 guys walking a different way... we had heard of a way you can just walk across the river without paying so thought that’s what they were doing...indeed it was. They showed us how to cross, walking through waist level water to get to the other side we came out triumphant having saved ourselves 20 rupees each.

    As soon as we got to the other side we were hounded by TukTuk drivers trying to sell us a tour of the temples to which we politely said no to as we were going to get a moped and drive round ourselves...(we were originally going to rent a moped from our hostel and drive round to the other side but we were informed that it’s was forbidden to take a moped from this side of the river over to the other side and we would have to get a moped there). We looked around the street for a little while trying to find somewhere to rent a moped from (with a hundred TukTuk drivers pestering us at each second) and we soon realised there was nowhere to rent mopeds from. We decided to have a few minutes to collect our thoughts and decided what we were going to do, but one TukTuk driver just wouldn’t leave us alone and was insisting on showing us this map of the temples for the 50th time...I was getting really impatient so just said to him “will you just please stop talking!!”...he left with his tail between his legs and we decided to just get a TukTuk tour to show us round the free temples. Eventually, after a lot of negotiation and fake walkaways (our bartering technique) we came to an agreement with a driver to take us round all the free temples for 400 rupees.

    We were told the Tuktuk tour would take us around 3 hours, and we’d visit all the free sites in Hampi including hidden tunnels, underground temples, ancient bazaars, ruins, step wells, queens baths, the list went on and on. In the Krishna temple we were both walking around taking in the really well preserved temple when a middle age lady approached us with her daughter lingering behind. The (we assumed) mother started to ask us lots of questions about us; how old are you? What do you do for work? Which country we were from? Do we have wives at home? What qualifications we have? Etc. We soon realised that she was trying to set us up with her daughter, we had heard about this- Indian parents trying to set their children up with Western boys but we just said for them to enjoy their day and carried on.

    After about 3 hours of seeing the temples and ruins of the ancient city of Hampi our TukTuk driver told us that we were finished..and I think Tom and I were secretly happy as we were a little templed out. On the drive back the TukTuk driver stopped outside a temple that were having some form of party. It was a colourful, vibrant and noisy affair with free food! We were given a large metal place and presented with a portion of rice and various curries, we sat on a wall adjacent to the temple and ate this tasty food before going up for seconds! Satisfied with the tour and the free lunch our guy managed to get us, was paid him with an extra 100 on top. However, he still requested more and also requested any foreign currency we had as he was collecting... a little cheeky, but nice try!

    We then walked to the Hampi Bazaar where I got into negotiations with a woman about buying some vests.m as it was so hot for even T-shirt’s. She practically emptied her entire collection onto her shop floor and I found various different polite ways to tell her each vest she was showing me was awful...I eventually found 2 which would do and managed to get them both for 400, a bargain that I was pretty happy with after she firstly asked me for 1,200! We aimed to walk to the top of a boulder mountain for a cool viewpoint. On the way Tom grabbed a cucumber - the woman initially wanted 20rupees but he got the smallest one for 10. Thinking it would be a nice non spicy meal, the woman then decided she’d sprinkle it with salt and masala powder! We walked on a bit following the river and we sat at a temple for a while to get out of the heat. Soon after an Indian guy came up to us and started talking about wresting and asked for our water (definitely not) and then he asked how we get so white. We both responded saying that we were white people, but he didn’t get it and then asked if we used some sort of special cream...all a bit weird.

    We walked through Achyutaraya Temple which was really impressive and dead quiet, so we stayed here a while before climbing the boulder mountain - Matanga Hill. The boulders were massive when you got up close to them and the views were amazing on the climb up. As usual, I entered mountain goat mode and started clambering all over the rocks, jumping from one to another. Tom however has a much stronger sense of self preservation so took a more sensible route up to the top.

    After this long day of being in the Tuktuk and doing plenty of waking, we decided to call it a day and head back before sunset, crossing the river on foot to avoid the charge and we walked back to the hostel as the sun went down. There were a few more people at the hostel tonight so we grabbed as many people as we could and went back to our little place for a feast and to get to know people.
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  • Dia 36

    Hampi by bicycle

    10 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    I woke Tom up at 845, after we both had an amazing night sleep, probably getting 10 hours! We got ready and made our way to our favourite food place (I.e. the only food place we had tried in the area) and got a Masala Dosa for breakfast before returning to the hostel to take out some bicycles out. After our unnecessarily thorough induction by our host on how to ride a bike and how to lock one up, we were on the road. These bikes were much better than the last bikes we took out in Kalpitiya, so we were going much faster this time. We were passing through beautiful scenery, rivers and rice paddies to the left, and enormous boulder mountains to the right. We had pinned a few things on our map the day before to go visit.

    Our first stop was Kishkanda Temple. It was right on top of one of the boulder mountains so inevitably there were steps to climb - only 570 this time unlike Adams Peak. However, the heat was extreme so it felt like miles and miles to the top. Eventually we got there and were treated to a 360° view of the whole of Hampi. With it still being quite early in the day, the dust and heat hadn’t hazed up the air, so the view was clear and we could see miles. At the top there was a little ceremony happening with people gathering round a very old man with face paints on seemingly getting religious advice. Inside the temple, people were offering food to a man who then gave them oil and salt. They would then smear the oil on their face and hair and then sprinkle the salt over their heads. It was obviously quite a sacred place for a lot of people, so we just observed. After a while we headed down, with all these Indian people coming up calling out “Jai Sriyam” over and over again, obviously some prayer. When we were asked what country we were from they started chanting “Jai England”. No idea what it meant, but it was quite a nice chant. We hopped back on our bikes and headed to a couple of other temples, one of which was abandoned which looked cool but was a bit creepy. We messed around here for a bit, and drank the last of our water...it was now getting boiling hot outside, at least 35° so we sought refuge at a little shop and bought some more water and some snacks.

    To get further out of the heat, we cycled to a little cafe which was overlooking the rice paddies and chilled out here for a bit. I wasn’t feeling too well as I think I’d caught a cold the previous day, so I just lay down as Tom read his book and we ordered a couple of cups of tea, one Mint and one Ginger Lemon. They took ages to arrive and then one did and looked all milky so Tom went to sort out the order and eventually we got them. We chilled here for a bit waiting for the heat to subside, and then hopped back on the bikes and took a back road towards the reservoir. We’d heard that there was a swimming spot and even a big boulder you could jump off into the lake. We took this back road and surprisingly there was nobody on it, busy rice paddies and little villages to the left and right. It was the best thing we’d seen so far in Hampi, and maybe even India. Eventually we got to where the two Hampi reservoirs were. We were so happy to see some water after being so hot all day and tried to find the swimming spot. We couldn’t find it!! So we thought it might be on the other side of the lake, we cycled down over a bridge and then I saw people round the corner to where we were swimming. We went straight back, locked the bikes up and went to the place.

    There were a group of Indians, a few British and a group of guys and girls from Sudan. There was some debate as to where was safe to jump in and if there were rocks. Tom went to be spotted in the water and dove down to see if there were rocks...there was one but it shouldn’t be in the jumping zone. We went to the top of the rock where there was a bunch of Indians and one of the group from he Sudan. Still nobody was sure really where to jump. I always try and jump high and far out in this situation, so I geared myself up and became a flying guinea pig with a running start of course. I hit the water and thankfully there were no rocks, good job Tom! This set the ball rolling for others and I was followed by the Sudanese guy, Tom and an Indian guy fully dressed. After a long day on the bikes, the water was amazing even though we’d read online and on signposts that the waters were infested with crocodiles, there wasn’t even a lizard in sight. We played around here for a bit and jumped a few more times.

    The brits who were at the lake were all the things I hate about travelling. They were at this beautiful lake, in the gorgeous sunshine and all they were doing was getting high...periodically checking if we wanted any. Of course we said no, but when offered chocolate biscuits we took the chance! After chilling here for a bit we went over to the Hippie Island where we’d seen a sunset spot on the maps. Eventually we got there down the bumpy roads and then had yet another boulder hill to climb. It wasn’t too difficult this time and we managed to get an amazing spot right on the edge. Both Tom and I FaceTimed home to catch up as this was the best signal we’d had in a couple of days. We enjoyed the sunset and cycled back to our place on the bikes and promptly went for dinner back to the same place where we both got our own thali as it was amazing and we were starving. As I wasn’t feeling too well, we went back to the hostel and I just rested up as Tom wrote some diary and read his book. It had been a long day out on the bikes and in the sun, but we’d seen loads of Hampi, time for a good sleep.
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  • Dia 37

    Hampi Chill Day

    11 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Again, Tom slept very well last night but I did not, I’d woken up feeling terrible, so we agreed to just take it easy today. We packed up our things as we were checking out and heading to Gokarna this evening on a night bus, and then made our way to our favourite local place for a Masala Dosa breakfast. Went back to the hostel and chilled out on the day beds enjoying the view of the rice paddies directly in front of our hostel. Just after midday we decided to check out the swimming spot near to our hostel, not having particularly high expectations for it I was really blown away with how beautiful it was when we got there. We enjoyed the warm sunshine and before no time went into the water. Not a crocodile in sight and it was so refreshing! After a little while after chilling out on the rocks and soaking up the sunshine was made our way back to the hostel to chill out for a little while as I still wasn’t feeling 100% and I’d need as much rest as possible as I doubted I’d get any sleep on this night bus.

    We decided that we’d pay up as we didn’t want to get held up when it game to leaving. Finally the hostel owner turned up. It was 2295 rupees to pay between us and we tried to pay separately, but as usual, change was an issue. So I paid him first and got change, but then figured that if I just paid for Tom too, we’d get more change as they always round things down here. I asked him to give me another lot of change so me and Tom would figure it out between us. The hostel guy took us both by surprise with what he did next...he said to Tom “hey, give me your money”. He wasn’t prepared to give us the full change without having everything first. He was so aggressive and I asked him if he thought we were going to run away. They guy said no, so I said for him to calm down and not be so rude. Both of us were left shocked by the whole experience and we would certainly be writing a savage review as the hostel made us both ill and it was dirty. This could usually be overlooked if the staff are good, but all of them were money grabbers.

    An hour or two had passed and we decided to walk to the shops to get some snacks for our night bus tonight. We got a bag full of snacks and it only cost us £1, total! On our way back we stopped off at our favourite place again for Veggie Thali and it was not a disappointment, it was delicious - we sure were going to miss this place!

    We went back to the hostel got our bags said our goodbyes to people (despite most of them heading to Gokarna in the coming days) and we left the hostel and walked the 2.5km back to Hippie island and the exact spot we would be getting the TukTuk to the bus station. The TukTuk obviously didn’t leave at 18:30 like it said it would, but eventually the driver crammed 7 of us into a TukTuk and began to drive into the middle of nowhere. After a bumpy journey through various little towns and driving on the wrong side the of the road we stopped in the central reservation of a motorway, apparently this was the bus station. As he dropped us off the TukTuk driver, who crammed us all into 1 TukTuk instead of two and drove like a psychopath asked us all for tips...the Polish woman in the TukTuk refused saying that we had already paid for the TukTuk, he then turned to George and I who backed her up by saying we would definitely not be tipping, especially as he was quite rude! We waited here for an hour until finally the bus arrived. We threw our bags in the luggage hold and got onboard to find our 2 seats that we booked. However, there were only beds on the bus, so we ended up having to share a single bed...
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  • Dia 38

    Overnight bus and Gokarna

    12 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    I probably got about 30 minutes sleep on the night bus. Nothing to do with sharing a very thin bench like bed, but the fact that these buses are rough...really rough. They bump around, they’re noisy, and for some reason the Indian road network has speed bumps every couple of kilometres on the highways, so lying down you constantly get tossed up in the air. We arrived at where they announced was Gokarna. I quickly checked the map and saw we were at least 20km from Gokarna. With sleepy heads, we got off and we’re told that another little mini van would take us the final leg. We had to get our backpacks out of the boot of the bus, so the guy came to open it. Tom’s was at the front, but mine had slipped back and was in the depths of the bus, so I crawled in and retrieved it...the guy who had opened the back up then asked for a tip, the cheeky sod, and even gave me a ball park figure of 30 rupees. We just laughed at him and walked off to the next bus. This journey was actually ok considering it was 3:30am. However, when we got close to Gokarna he stopped and turned the engine off and the lights on and told us to get off. We were still a couple of kilometres away but as it was early and cool we decided to walk. A french guy on the same bus was staying 7km away and there were no Tuktuks around so he asked the bus driver what he was meant to do - the suggestion came to walk - he was very unhappy.

    We walked to the beach and tried to come up with a plan of action. We had decided not to book anywhere as Tom had heard that you could just rock up and stay in a beachside shack. As it was only 5am nothing was open and we thought about maybe getting a hostel for the night, but decided against it and just made our way over the hills to Kudle Beach. We sat on the beach for a while watching the cows and the dogs all waking up and the sun rise, our first here in India. Tom went to see what he could find for accommodation and came back about half an hour later with some offers. One place would do 200 rupees a night but was full of cockroaches, another was 600 a night - no cockroaches, but well over budget, and the third was 300 per night no bugs and the closest to where we were sat...deal! We went in and it was all ok for £3 per night, and as we were exhausted we both passed out on the bed until about 9am. When we woke it was getting quite hot so we went out and checked out the beach in the sunshine, now with lots more people on it. The water was amazing though, and we just relaxed for a couple of hours.

    It began to get really hot, probably up to about 35° so we dragged our stuff back up the beach towards the shade of a tree. Even in the shade it was boiling, so we decided to just get lunch at the cafe which our accommodation was behind. We sat and planned out the next couple of days as we were wanting to take things much looser in India in terms of plans and just move on from one place when we felt like it. We had lunch and absolutely forgot to pay for it but didn’t get chased so all good there! We decided to go and check out Om Beach, just a half hour walk over the hills and when we got there, we were pleasantly surprised as we’d previously heard it was full of Russians. It was nice and quiet and the water was gorgeous! We spent an hour swimming round and messing around and decided to go back to Kudle Beach for sunset.

    On the way back, a beach guard stopped me and asked to look in the bag. We’d heard how the police had cracked down on drug use on the beaches. After he looked through a couple of items I asked if he was looking for drugs and he said yes. He also said to the other guard that it was all clean - good to know! We got back to our beach shack to get showered. I walked into the bathroom and heard a strange scraping noise, looked right down at my feet and there was a massive black snake slithering it’s way away from me towards the toilet!! I spun round urging Tom to get out over and over then said simply - there’s a snake! We got out the room to reassess and decided that we’d go back in to check I was right. Tom couldn’t see it at first; but then did behind the toilet. We both decided that we couldn’t sleep in that shack for the next couple of nights as we didn’t want to wake up with a snake on our face. We grabbed all of our stuff and upgraded ourselves to a 400 rupee a night beach house with bricks and mortar - looked sturdy and snake proof.

    We got showered and cleaned up, we’d spent 4 days in boiling hot Hampi and a night bus without a shower as the one in Hampi was non existent, this was our first shower in 5 days, we felt truly grim. We checked out the beach for sunset and then walked back over to Gokarna town for some dinner and to find Tom some flip flops which he managed to haggle down to £2. We grabbed some dinner on the rooftop restaurant and I FaceTimed home where Mum, Harry, Bob and Sally-Anne were having lunch in Ilkley. We had a long chat about stuff here and there, but it was nice to be briefly transported back into home world, a world where every meal isn’t curry! We walked back over to Kudle beach and got a well deserved early night.
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  • Dia 39

    Gokarna Beach Hopping

    13 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We woke up and were out at by 8. We walked over to Om beach where we had been the previous day and enjoyed a Masala Dosa for breakfast to fuel us for our walk to the more remote beaches we had heard about. We found a path at the end of Om beach and followed it through passing through jungle and desert like terrain in the process with beautiful coastal views. After a while in the already scorching heat, we arrived at half moon beach, a beautiful beach with a little shack serving food, however nobody around.

    We decided to continue to the final beach, “Paradise beach” and chill out on half moon beach later on, on our way back through. Following a path that was actually guided by red paint on the occasional rock, we walked through similar terrain to the previous path, albeit this time a bit more risky and eventually we arrived to Paradise beach. It was a beautiful beach, slightly rocky but beautiful nonetheless, however as we stepped foot onto the beach we felt eyes on us straight away. Paradise beach was quite well known for Hippie travellers coming here and spending day upon day camping here, getting high and inevitably meeting other people with dreadlocks. We were not disappointed, it was as if we were Leonardo Dicaprio and the French guy from the beach. Clearly nobody really wanted us there (it’s because we didn’t have dreadlocks I guess). There was one guy in particular on this beach who had dreadlocks down to his ankles and was wearing an all in one black oversized shirt, he walked towards the sea taking off this shirt to be completely naked underneath. He then got out of the sea after ‘cleaning himself’ and got his homemade fishing rod to go and catch his own fish...he was unsuccessful but at least he tried. We enjoyed the beach for a little while, went for a swim in the perfect water before leaving this little bit of paradise with all it’s hippie inhabitants.

    We went back to Half moon beach and there was no shade at all, so we went to a cafe where Tom got a ginger, lemon and honey tea. We thought we’d try and book some trains as we’d heard that they get booked up. The apps we were using were the right ones, however, like everything in India they didn’t make sense. One even took the money and then didn’t give us ticket!! We spent some time on the helpline to the train company, but couldn’t understand a thing. For whatever reason we then got our tickets whilst on the phone... We went for a swim and then made our way back to Om beach for some more relaxation and swimming in the sea before heading back to Kudle beach. We chilled out back at our place and then went to watch the sunset where we met with Tobias, the German guy we had met in Hampi. We went for dinner together at a place Tom and I had seen yesterday, got some biscuits to enjoy after dinner and then called it a night.
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  • Dia 40

    Gokarna to South Goa

    14 de fevereiro de 2020, Índia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    I woke and quickly checked the train times from Gokarna. For some reason, the train was actually an hour earlier than we thought it was so it wasn’t quite the chilled wake-up, pack-up and leave we had planned but we packed our stuff up and checked-out the place, paying the 800 rupees we owed for the accommodation...they didn’t realise we forgot to pay for lunch yesterday so we got away with that one! We walked over to Gokarna town and haggled a TukTuk to the train station for 180. We got to the train station bought our tickets for 35rupees and waited for the train to come...it was obviously an hour late but it eventually turned up. We each bought samosas on the train and watched the world go by as we entered the state of Goa.

    After the 2 hour train journey we arrive at Cancona station where we would be getting off to go to Patnem, South Goa. We decided to walk to the hostel as it was only a 3km walk, but it was boiling hot and we regretted it by the time we got to our hostel, Base hostel. It was a small hostel, but very nice, hidden away from the main road with hammocks and a chill out area outside. We got into our room, used the shower (unfortunately it was cold) and chilled on the extremely comfortable beds for a little while where I sent my dad a happy birthday text.

    After a little while we decided to go and check out Patnem beach. We had decided to stay in Patnem, instead of its busier neighbour Palolem as we had heard that Palolem was quite busy and developed, whereas Patnem was more quiet and less commercial. When we got to the beach, we were both surprised at actually how it was still quite resorty. There were quite a lot of people, overpriced restaurants and resorts but the beach was beautiful nonetheless and the water was perfect after our morning on the sweaty train. We had a nice short walk along the beach, and tried to get to another beach, but the tide was too high. We chilled out for a while with the occasional swim in the sea to cool ourselves down (it was very hot today) before we decided it we’d had enough sun for the day.

    We went back to the room for showers and got dressed to go out and get some dinner. We both actually made an effort tonight, both wearing deodorant, aftershave and a shirt! We actually felt clean and western again, which was quite nice. We watched the sunset at Patnem beach, watching people playing around with their frisbees and then we went to Woodo cafe, a Nepalese restaurant that we had checked out earlier on, for some dinner. We ordered a Thali each which was amazing, I even upgraded to the “special Thali” where you got a paneer curry included. My favourite curry was the carrot curry they had included, it was amazing and it’s safe to say there wasn’t any waste on our plates...in fact after food we ordered veg and cheese momos... this was going to decide if we went to Nepal or not, if these momos were good we would go, if not we would keep our flights to Myanmar. The momos came and they were amazing! We are going to Nepal!!

    After food, we made our way back to the hostel, chilled out and then got into our comfy beds to get some sleep!
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