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Munda Biddi Trail 2023
  • Stewart Eglington

Munda Biddi Trail 2023

A 21-day adventure by Stewart Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 6, 2023
    Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 1

    October 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Mundaring to Carina Hut to Mundaring 44.7 k|ms and yet I clocked up 138 klms!!!

    Let me begin ...
    Munda Biddi means path through the forest and this trail is the longest continuous one of its kind in the world.
    Spanning from Mundaring near Perth to Albany on the south western coast of Western Australia the trail is about 1032 kilometres E2E (trail talk - End to End). My plan is to complete the journey in about 21 days.
    It's been 12 months in the planning and hopefully all the training, reformer pilates, stretching, hours on the bike along with the practice of disassembling and assembling it coupled with packing and unpacking the storage bags so that it can be packed in a hard case for transport interstate has prepared me to take on my Munda Biddi challenge.
    Mind you, I had not planned for today's eventual outcome.

    Away at dawn - beautiful!
    A wrong turn - embarrassed!
    (considering it added an extra 100 kilometres to the days tally)
    Retracing the mistake- exasperated!
    Eventually on course- relieved!
    Engulfed by bush fire smoke - perplexed!
    Not quite there yet- pondering!
    Personal safety - anxious!
    Return to the start! Reassessment!

    Planning a few days respite to see if the hot weather and fires abate.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 2

    October 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Jarrahdale to Dwellingup - 75 klms.

    Back on track and a day dominated by pea gravel, steep inclines, steep declines and pea gravel. OMG! Pea gravel, has to be ridden to be believed. If you can imagine wheel spinning up hill and skidding down with a minimal adhesion, non- directional steering and a knowledge that there’s a ripper of a chance of eating dirt - then that’s pea gravel and my goodness it was a challenge.
    Having spent a couple of days back in Perth avoiding the effects of a controlled burn off that tempered my first attempt I was raring to go so with a dawn departure I hastened my getaway.
    Leaving Jarrahdale I descend down to the Serpentine River crossing before a steep climb and off towards North Dandalup. Reaching the Danalup hut (where I’d planned to camp) sooner than expected I decided to push on to Dwellingup. Push indeed!
    All day I encountered stunning stands of trees, glorious vistas, the light and shade as the sun’s rays permeated the canopy, birdsong and picturesque displays of wildflowers and pea gravel.
    Along the way I was greeted and passed by five fellow Munda Biddians with Dwellingup their overnight resting place. Mine too … I’d hoped.
    Content that they too had enjoyed the pea gravel just as much as me - albeit with a tad more skill and speed - it was Dwellingup or bust by sunset.
    Indeed, I did make it in before dusk, checked into the Dwelly Pub, washed away today’s grime, had a scrumptious burger and chips and rather dejectedly set about formulating a maintenance plan. Coupled with the trials and tribulations of pea gravel the second half of my day was spent traveling in the highest gear - terrific if negotiating firm ground and steep ascents yet not so for all other encounters. Why? Because I encountered a mechanical problem and my only way out of town is to have the issue addressed by the local bike mechanic in the morning. Dreaming of a successful solution and another day in the saddle … good night    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 3

    October 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Dwellingup 0 klms
    Awake very, very early so I ventured out on a local Dwellingup reconnaissance seeking the Trails and Visitors Center that includes the Waypoints Cafe and the bike shop. Woohoo! Found them!
    And then as the township slept I’d established a plan and it was all dependent on things falling into my predetermined strategy.
    6:30am - plenty of time for a wander and have things packed and be ready to scoot
    8:00am - coffee and breakfast
    9:00am - mechanical diagnosis and remedy
    Soon after, during the morning - on the trail.
    What luck! A terrific, hot, aromatic, heart warming, soul fulfilling coffee, and a scrumptious breaky wrap. Joining me were fellow Munda Biddians offering warm greetings and best wishes upon my repairs. In actual fact, the three most helpful blokes had a squiz, shook their heads and nodded and in agreement said a bike mechanic would be best skilled to solve my conundrum.
    As the clock chimed 9 (in my head) the bike shop opened and I sauntered in hopes high and was greeted by Colleen - a jubilant, vivacious soul whose presence soothed my anxiety whilst I gained the confidence to ask for assistance. Delighted to know that they have a bike mechanic yet disappointed that today is his day off! Damn! Noting the wind fall from my sail Colleen checked with Paul the mechanic and assured me that he’ll be in by 9:00am tomorrow. Ripper!!!
    Thankful and resigned to a day of dawdling, I further explored Dwelly and what remains of the Hotham Railway train line and the trains it serviced.
    As the day passed, I began tossing up alternative arrangements should things not go to plan. I even test rode a bike in the inevitable chance that mine would not be fixable.
    Whilst a great test ride the bike is not set up for my purposes. Could be a good sign … at any rate - I’ll sleep on it.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 4

    October 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Dwellingup to Bidjar Ngoulin - 32 klms

    Wide awake with anticipation that all will be fixed and I’ll be on my way I went for a walk. Walking with the sunrise recharges me and reminds me that with the dawn comes a new day that beckons a positive energy for what may eventuate.
    With nearly two hours until the cafe opened I readied myself for a quick getaway. I’d removed all the bags, water bottles, tent and anything else that might hamper access to all parts gears and gizmos.
    With everything crossed and a positive vibe I took my bike to breakfast. Armed with an extra hot flat white and an “Avo Nice Day” breaky - sourdough, avocado, feta and poached eggs I perched myself at a table all but facing the bike shop I just knew/hoped things were going to be better than yesterday.
    Deep into Wordle to pass time, I was approached by a woman who introduced herself as Claudia, the assistant bike mechanic. Whilst it was not quite 9:00am she said that they were expecting me and that Paul - the guru of bikes would be in soon. He’d spoken with Colleen and she’d outlined my dilemma and he’d spoken to Claudia who’d greeted me and said that they were up for the challenge and their mission was to get me back on the Munda Biddi asap.
    I watched as Claudia wheeled my bike into the workshop checked it in with Paul and the procedure began.
    Not wanting to hover or be a sticky beak I waited as if in the waiting room waiting for the diagnosis, the prognosis. So, I had another coffee, solved Wordle, thumbed through the newspaper in horror and despair with the dreaded happenings in Israel, turned to a magazine highlighting all the attractions of the Murray river region of which Dwellinup and all its activities features greatly.
    Now my mug was empty. It had been just over an hour and I could wait no longer. Cautiously, I wondered into the shop to have a browse at the cycling bibs and bobs and I was sprung.
    Well that was good timing Paul exclaimed. You know it really had us stumped. There was no broken cable and yet the shifter was stuck blah blah blah bike terminology. Finally, we’d established that the cable was “pinched”. How or why we’re not sure but it’s good to go.
    With glee in a roundabout sort of way they expressed their thanks. You see, mine was the first gravel bike they’d worked on and they went on to explain that this conundrum was a real learning process.
    Strange how one’s own dilemma solves another’s. Hmmm!
    What a terrific bargain- $30.00 for their expertise I was away.
    And oh, what a wonderful experience today turned out to be.
    Although the late start meant I’d have a shorter journey there were some glorious moments to share. Pea gravel was all but nonexistent. The track was hard and gentle with hills that my gearing allowed me to wind my way up and down with speed and exhilaration that I’d missed over the last 48 hours. I rode through the hilly Lane Pool reserve, along the Murray River, (a different Murray River)saw and heard running water and am now camped at Bigjar Njoulin hut. There are four of us here tonight- Ross from Fremantle but England originally. He is a bikepacker extraordinaire. If it’s rideable he’s done it all over the world and he estimates that this about his tenth Biddi Bash!!! Jim and Jock great mates who met playing table tennis. Jock is the better table tennis player whereas Jim is the younger by about 20 years is a more proficient rider.
    Interesting to hear their stories and yet there is a common bond - we all detest pea gravel. Ross too! Mind you he encourages us to hang in there for the next day or so as the track surface becomes harder and more stable. We are all endeavoring to make it to Lake Brockman tomorrow.
    Delighted! My tent is up. My bed is made.
    My tummy is full. The temperature is plummeting and I’m warm and dozing.
    Thank goodness for the kind caring helpful souls that sent me on my way. Sleep tight!    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 5

    October 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Bidjar Ngoulin to Lake Brockman- 37 klms

    It was cold overnight. A see your breath in your tent kinda cold and has one contemplating a dash to the loo or a restless night. Dash completed, added a beanie and a jacket and I went out for the count. I struggle to sleep at the best of times and whilst I tossed and turned I did manage to string some zeds together.
    Awaking with the birds - I’d packed, had breakfast and was on my way as the others stirred. We agreed to catch up later in the day.
    Pottering along I was gladdened to note that the surface was indeed harder and faster. Oh yeah! That didn’t last long.
    Some of todays sections featured washed away tracks some more really steep hills, pea gravel and sand. Needles to say - more pushing and walking.
    However, the end certainly justified the intolerable surfaces. Lake Brockman and its stunning crystal blue water is astonishing.
    It was well over 30 degrees and building as I sighted the Lake. There and then I’d committed to test the waters - once I’d sought a camping spot, lunch, coffee and a cold drink.
    I’m staying at the Lake Brockman Tourist Park and camping ground and it’s all but booked out.
    I was offered two options. The first a single powered camp site amidst everything and was warned that it would be busy and noisy and a bit of a trek to the ablutions block.
    The second is a glamping tent of sorts.
    I took it!
    Whilst I’m about 30 metres from the shower and loo I’ve a view to die for. Overlooking the lake with nothing but a beach of pea gravel to negotiate to reach the shimmery, shivering water.
    As I write, I’m in bed staring out over the lake. I can hear campers setting up as the day fades into night.
    I’ve already had three swims. It’s brain freezingly cold but ever so refreshing. I even wore my entire cycling clobber as I plunged in. Didn’t keep me warm but it came out cleaner.
    It’s going to be another cold night and the wind seems to be building.
    With food, shelter and a warm bed I’m stoked that today has been such a terrific experience.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 6

    October 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Lake Brockman to Collie - 89.3 klms

    It was going to be difficult to top yesterday.
    Initially, I’d planned to reach Collie in two days staying overnight at Yarri Hut and the the following day arrive in Collie.
    Having slept really well I was up and away by 6:15am and reached the hut by 11:15am so decided to lunch it and head onward.
    It turned out to be a very hot day and staying hydrated was a priority so topped up all water vessels at Yarri then pushed for Collie.
    I knew I’d encounter pea gravel but not nearly the grinding, slip, sliding to a halt stuff that had me cursing in previous days.
    Yes, there were also some walk ‘em up walk ‘em down sections but overall it has been an awesome day on the trail. I’ve negotiated sand, gravel puddles and burned out areas of bush still smoldering and fallen trees blocking the way. There were detours onto the highway which despite the lovely flat, fast surface are not my ideal conditions. Being passed at 100 klms is rather daunting.
    By far and away the most enjoyable features of today’s sections were the hard track surface, downhill sections through picturesque forests. Despite the heat it’s been a great day on the Munda Biddi
    I managed to snag the last available bed in the entire town. I’m upstairs in the Federal Hotel and am being serenaded by the band and raucous rowdiness below.
    I envisage another early escape and will decide where to stay as the day progresses.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 7

    October 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Collie to Naglang Boodja Hut - 38 klms

    As is my routine I like to be up and away as early as possible but my escape was rather precarious. Not so sure about the safety of my bike and belongings overnight - I’d snuck it in, upstairs to the first floor. It gave me a chance to restock etc. That was fine, but trying to exit quietly down the fire escape with self closing doors only to find out that the back gate was closed was a bother. So, bike parked I had to re-enter the pub via the ground floor back door and out through reception.
    Collie is a busy town partly because of the mining and also the caravaners and tourists and blokes on bikes opting for a stay over in Collie. Whilst most of the accommodation is all but full most nights, it appears like me things begin early. At 5:45am things were stirring as huge trucks were rolling through town and Maccas just happened to be open and the place to be. With a muffin and a coffee under my belt I was away.
    After the effort of last couple of days I felt like I might to be able to make it to the small town of Boyanup about 65 kllometres away.
    From Collie, the first 28 kilometres was terrific, not so heavy going following bush and farm tracks close to the major Coalfields Highway. I even took time to miss a marker and by chance viewed the Collie reservoir and the vista was stunning in the early light.
    Back on track and things were cruising along just fine. It was about 11 km from where I’m staying tonight that I hit the so described fun section. Granted, fun for some but as I’m still getting used to the bond of bike person and track it wasn’t great fun. As a matter of fact those with the skills would have a ball descending the (not so) smooth and relatively (very) steep and tight turning switchbacks. After which you cross the paved River Road then climb for a few kilometres. An arduous task!
    Further on there was yet another tricky descent and whilst all indications of the trail went left and with prior knowledge I turned right - deliberately!
    This small diversion along a sealed road lead to Honeymoon Pool on the Collie river. This is a local camping area and picnic ground with the most beautiful swimming hole. I was totally whacked and the water beckoned. It was cold but oh so therapeutic. After a few dips and a chance to regroup I was headed for tonight’s resting place. Not before encountering a last descent. It is quite rocky and has several more steep switchbacks.
    The guide notes state that - “Experienced mountain bikers really enjoy this part of the trail, but many others find it a bit hard. (I did!) It is likely the most technically difficult part of the entire Munda Biddi Trail.” Gosh I hope so!
    Set on a heavily forested hillside, this hut is a peaceful place and I called today’s aspirations finished. I’ll reset my goals in the morning. Boyanup and beyond …
    Tent pitched and I’m washed, fed and exhausted.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 8

    October 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Munda Biddi: Day 8 - 16 October 2023
    Boodja Hut to Donnybrook - 48 klms

    Roused from an extraordinarily good sleep by birdsong and a rowdy kookaburra I emerged from my tent to a not so chilly glorious morning.
    After yesterday’s mixed adventure it was wise to not push on to Boyanup. Knowing that I’m in for another hot day my hope was to have a late breakfast in Boyanup and lunch in Donnybrook where I’ll spend the night.
    Shortly after Nglang Boodja I left the forest and descended into hilly farm land with great views. Apart from the “inevitabhill”climb or three a substantial amount of the trail was downhill including some quiet gravel roads on the way into Boyanup. That is if you choose to take the 4 kilometre duck in and out of town offer. What swayed my decision to do Boyanup was the big sign with a coffee icon pointing the way.
    A toasted bacon and egg sandwich, coffee and a cold drink and I was good to go. Once back on the track out of Boyanup I continued to travel through forest and farmland and eventually onto a long, mostly downhill section of paved road into the Apple capital of Western Australia - Donnybrook!
    Had dinner at the only pub in town an am staying in a backpackers lodge. Fortunately, I’ve a room to myself. There is a real hum of people noise as I turn out the lights. It seems and feels like things keep getting better along the trail. Can’t wait for tomorrow …    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 9

    October 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Munda Biddi Day 9 - 17 October 2023
    Donnybrook to Nannup - 72 klms

    Hot … but what a hoot!
    This morning’s getaway began about 11:00pm and continued onwards all through the night. What began with the hum of humans transgressed into stirring conversations, creaking floor boards the clunking of doors and the endless foot traffic to and from the bathroom.
    Because I’d chosen this bed I had to lie in it. So by dawn I was eager to roll.
    The early stages of the Munda bid me well this morning, leading me through forests and pine plantations along flat gravel roads and to a freshwater not so full dam. I was hot, the sky was blue and I knew I just had to have a dip. Cool refreshing and time for a snack. I’d packed a banana on the back and I could only hope that someone else might enjoy a hit of fresh fruit. Darn it!
    With such a good surface, I was making great time so I peddled on through with Nannup in my sights.
    This firm single track follows a once used railway trackbed. It has few bends and gentle grades. It made for a fast most enjoyable session. Along the way I was raced by emus, escorted by a squadron of red tail black cockatoos calling out my name. Well it sounded so! I even had track sharing moments with of a number of goannas who just seem to own the trail and appeared to scoff as I offered a greeting.
    Reminders of the railway of yesteryear remain as you cross a few remaining wooden ex-railway bridges.
    Nannup is the HALFWAY town of the Munda Biddi and I’m camped in the local caravan park about 200 metres from the river. I went for a swim. It was refreshing and a great way to complete what has been a most exhilarating ride.
    Nannup is a pretty country town and almost everything is shut on a Tuesday night.
    However, on Tuesdays volunteers host the community dinner. All foods are donated by local businesses. Three courses for $8.00.
    Soup, curried sausages and rice and for dessert- matchstick pastry and ice cream.
    Wind is howling, leaves are chatting non stop, branches are creaking and my tent is flapping.
    Today - it’s been a hoot!    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 10

    October 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Nannup to Manjimup 84 klms

    It rained overnight! It wasn’t heavy rain and there’s something quite relaxing about being warm and serenaded by the beat of the rain on the tent.
    Well, that’s all and good until daylight filters through and it’s time to pack and go. Whilst the rain had ceased I was left with a conundrum - lie in and wait for things to dry or just do it. Do it, it was! Fortunately, everything but the tent was dry and yet the daylight was struggling and as I strapped the last few things on the bike it began to sprinkle.
    It was 6:30am and time for coffee and breakfast at the local, early opener.
    As I parked my bike a local farmer strode in for his regular coffee and two newspapers and we exchanged greetings.
    Need this bloody rain - not sure why it’s here or where it’s going but I’ll use every drop he stated.
    Wasn’t predicted I chimed in. Not so good for bike riding he quipped and winked. Hope you get wet, have a good ride he chuckled.
    I was yet to experience rain on the Munda Biddi Another first, and locals say it helps the pea gravel stick together. Yes!
    Misty hues and a constant drizzle stayed with me all morning and once the rain eased it was the clashing and splashing as I made my way through the bushes that became a highlight and challenge. Branches and bushes laden with moisture lashing out made it feel like I was negotiating a drive through bike wash. Wet, wet, wet and lots of fun!
    As I reached the village of Donnelly River the rain had all but gone and it was time for lunch. The lamb and rosemary pie with chutney was absolutely scrumptious.
    Overcast and a great run towards Manjimup. On the way I ducked in for a quick swim at Glenrowan and paused at one Tree BridgeI. Pedaling on I felt I may well have been part of the nativity. I eventually got a sign and when speaking to the almighty information centre I was informed that there were no rooms in the inns but there may be a space in the caravan park.
    Found a plot, pitched my tent, had dinner at the Tall Timbers - a local brewery’s restaurant and hit the hay early. Amen!    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 11

    October 19, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Manjimup to Pemberton 80 klms

    I wasn’t quite sure where I’d end up today so I opted for a slower start allowing my accommodation a chance to dry after a very dewy night.
    Coffee and croissant, gear sorted and packed - first stop Quinninup Tavern and if all goes well Pemberton will be in my sights.
    The tavern was closed.
    Well, Pemberton it was, and rumor has it, accommodation there will be hard to find. As know doubt you are aware, my phone reception drops in and out so contact further ahead is at the best poor or at least useless. Maintaining hope, should I get a signal, I’ll be on the blower.
    The rise and fall of the undulations of the track meandering though Jarrah forests and stands of huge Karri trees - the giants of the forest, provided yet another astonishing array of vistas.
    Standing tall amongst them all is King Jarrah tree. It’s 45 metres tall, has a girth of 2.6 metres and give or take a year is 500 years old! Strueth!
    Today’s glorious ride was even more delightful than I’d expected when I suddenly came into a receptive range and my phone pinged! Woohoo! Pemberton Caravan Park had a space for me tonight.
    Relieved,I once again settled into the romance of the day and was bought to a sudden halt. As if waiting to pass the time of day a long thin, not slithering but basking black snake - a dugite blocked my way. Casting cautious glances we paused and thankfully the snake ventured off post haste into the scrub.
    Upon arriving at my evenings resting place I was greeted by a flocking reception party. As I commenced erecting my tent about a dozen ducklings and their mum waddled in to say hi and give me the once over. Quacking approval they left my to my cause.
    I’m in a terrific spot, a soft grassy area by a creek.
    Dinner at the local sports club and safely to bed. Sleep, I did temporarily and suddenly awoke! I’d been dreaming in French - sadly non! In reality,the young couple in the tent next to mine were FaceTiming friends or family perhaps in France. The conversation sounded wonderful and I would’ve been so happy that they’d connected except that it was 2:00 am our time!!!    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 12

    October 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Pemberton to Northcliffe 40 klms

    Seems when I’m staying in town my days are regulated by the delightful morning greetings offered by the cheerful baristas whose caffeine gift, albeit paid for by myself, prepares me for yet another day of wonder. Heavens knows, should I ever get a grumpy barista - it might well be my undoing.
    In the wake of a gracious good morning and a wish for safe travels bestowed upon me I trundled away. Following a single track amongst huge Karri trees lead me towards the Gloucester Tree. Once used as a fire lookout it has a platform accessible by metal rungs and is about 53 metres high. But today it was closed with hoardings and warnings. I can say - I’ve been there, done nought. Not even a photo to boot!
    The remainder of today’s journey incorporated more single track, free flowing enjoyable moments and around every bend the never ceasing wonders of nature. She truly is a wonder to behold!
    Yet another soul soothing, cool tempering moment captured my attention as I came upon the River Road bridge a glorious reminder of engineering of the now lost railway infrastructure. Where there is a bridge there is often water and if it’s clean and it’s safe to do so I’ll have a dip. Cool, clean, refreshed I was back on track.
    Having decided to take a rest day I’m shacked up in the Northcliffe Hotel for two nights. Northcliffe is a small town and apart from my digs I’m centered around the General Store and the scrumptious Cliffe Cafe. They’ve become my hub as it’s the only precinct within which I can use Wi-Fi.
    Throughout my journey thus far I’ve met some great people and it’s their understanding of your plight, the highs and lows and the challenges shared that bind us together. Once again, I’ve had to share a concern of mine and seek others mechanical know how. You see, my back brake is failing and I’m throwing my concern out to the universal minds of pedaling Munda Biddians.
    A major reason for my rest day tomorrow is to take a brake and fix it!
    Clean, fed weary and pondering sleep calls.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 13

    October 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Northcliffe to Northcliffe - 0 klms

    Sometimes we need a reminder to slowdown and look around and take stock both of ourselves and the world around us. Being electronically disconnected can be cathartic and stressful, sobering and challenging and at times infuriating.
    Whilst traveling by myself I do realize and feel that this oneness can at times be lonely and introspective. Countering that, I am forever thankful for the joy that conversing and frolicking with nature encompasses and the gratitude that I share with friends and family as I espouse my feelings through the stories and images I share. Along the way I have you in my heart and am forever grateful and fortunate for your friendships.
    Those you meet along the way also add to the experience and whilst you might simply meet at dinner or share a hut or tent site each has a different story to tell and yet we all share the goals whether it be to complete a day or two along the track or to to the entire length or as those who’ve done it call it - E2E … end to end!
    Preparing for this adventurous challenge has been alluring and daunting and elements of this trip tedious and exhilarating. Yet here I am just over half way.
    Along this trail I’ve encountered a number of cyclists participating in the same endeavour for vast and varied reasons and interactions with these souls has added to the richness of my experience.
    Today has been slow and restful and problematic. For the last three days I’ve had little, leading to no rear braking power and it is impeding my progress and certainly making safety a rather troubling concern. As it was a weekend and the closest bike shops are over a hundred kilometers away I had a crack at solving the problem. I had a modicum of success and at least I’ll have a slightly better chance of coming to a grinding halt.
    I’ve also had the opportunity to explore the Understory Art and Nature Trail created in response to the unique landscapes, people and the history of the Southern Forests region. Aside from the stories here are some images.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 14

    October 22, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Northcliffe to Kwokralup Beela Hut - 95 klms

    Rejuvenated and caffeine charged I’d hatched a plan knowing rain had been predicted. I wasn’t surprised when, as I mounted my bike, a misty precipitous occasion was arriving. As it was expected to ease off during the morning and clear by the afternoon I wasn’t too phased. I had always intended to pass the first hut which was only about 35 klms and had my vision set on Fernhook Falls making it about a 65klms journey.
    In my mind, on a day when I knowingly planned to get wet, I’d already claimed my cabin and lit the fire to dry out. Because at the falls there are 10 tent sites and two camp huts each with two beds, a toilet, water and a fire place. Heaven! And I’ll be there. What could thwart my hope?
    It’s a first in best dressed community site and there’s nobody around.
    Attempting to keep things dry I’d bagged and double bagged everything including my phone and that meant fewer images of the days happenings.
    Some weather forecast! Honestly! It got heavier as the day went on and I was drenched - all day long!
    As the rain hammered down my vision was tainted by droplets of water and misty moments meaning I saw little of the segments of forests and farmlands, the granite Dome - Yirra Karta and it’s 360 degree views. Nor did I bother to take the famed trek to the top of Mt Frankland for it too would have been disappointing amidst this unwanted weather event.
    Mind you, there were some fun fast single track sections that passed through Jarrah, Sheoak and Karri forests and the trail was in good order considering the deluge.
    Drenched with anticipation I made it to Fernbrook and it was teeming with people and rain. Huts had been claimed and tent sites snatched.
    Now in a quandary - should I stay and set up camp in the rain or should I go for broke to Kwokralup Beela Hut.
    Go for broke it was and It became a race to arrive before dusk. I made it. A big dry hut all to myself.
    In hope that things might dry overnight I’d strewn wet clothing and equipment everywhere.
    Cocooned in my sleeping bag I was fed, warm, dry and stonkered after a long day and sleep came swiftly.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 15

    October 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Kwokralup Beela To Booner Mundak via Walpole - 85 klms

    Having had a dry comfortable sleep I was away with a flurry of hope and determination. Yesterday’s wet had firmed the track making the sand and gravel easier to negotiate. However, my shabby quick fix was failing. Recollecting adolescent reckless times, I commissioned some scientific foolhardiness and added the friction generated by placing a foot on the ground to slow my pace. Not such a terrific idea! A reappraisal lead me to modifying my route and reneging from the authenticity of the Munda Biddi for a few kilometres. A safer strategy was to travel via the road to Walpole have breakfast and ponder my future onward pedal.
    Once again I felt connection with the nativity as three wise Munda Biddian men sauntered in and joined me for breakfast.It was an auspicious moment that would change my adventure for ever. A rather pretentious claim but it was their knowledgeable insights and know how that set me back on the trail. Word had reached them of my plight and within minutes they’d looked, assessed and were solving the mystery. With a twist and a tweak my mechanical mess was fixed. A miracle!
    With my spirit ascending, I was back on my true course and no longer contemplated taking the easy road.
    Mind you the trail onwards to Booner Mundak hut - meaning wild place or in the bush in traditional Noongar language was proving to be a less onerous journey - kind of! Here the landscape becomes more open as there is a transition from forest to bush and with the firming of he trail surface I was rolling along at a reasonable pace yet still requiring strenuous and at times fading efforts negotiating hill after hill.
    Upon reaching the hut I was greeted by fellow traveler Cormac - an experienced bikepacker who understood my occasional mishaps. Whilst not riding together our paths have crossed. Recounting our experiences over the last few days and having recharged our caloric deprivation we each claimed half of the hut and settled in for what proved to be a dry but very cold night.
    As I drift off I’m thinking about the possibility of another long day and a concerted push to reach Denmark.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 16

    October 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Boober Mundak to Duckett’s Mill Wines and Denmark Farmhouse - 63 klms

    Plans for a big push onto Denmark go kaput!
    I am definitely over hill climbing. I mean absolutely up to my neck and down to my toes fed up with hills!
    Today has been an absolute struggle and I’ve had this delusional mindset that it’s Denmark day. What a prat!
    After 55 klms of hard slog I arrived at
    Jinung Beigabup hut set in clearing encircled by tall straight Karri trees.
    Six and a bit hours of annoyance and I was attempting to gather myself and make a rational decision. Should I give up and call it quits for the day - regroup and re-energize and plan to pause for breakfast at the winery 7 klms down the track before heading onward to Denmark.
    Arriving in a far more positive frame of mind Cormac offered a suggestion that was to spur me on.
    Rather than spend the rest of the day hanging around the hut he proposed that we head down to Duckett's Mill Wines and the Denmark Farmhouse as there might be a possibility of camping there.
    Spurred on we’d decided to give it a try and at any rate having tents would allow us to free camp if necessary.
    Having dined on a substantial portion of their menu I summoned the courage and asked one of the staff if there might be an opportunity for us to set up our tents somewhere on the property and if so we’d be discreet and get away early.
    Soon after, Annette - the owner, greeted us and was more than happy for us to stay. In fact, she suggested that as it was going to be a very windy night we set up in the garden courtyard where we’d be more comfortable. Further to allowing us the shelter of her garden, she most kindly offered us the convenience of their loos and if we were cold sitting out we may sit inside on the verandah. OMG!
    Things seemed to be turning for the good. My mojo was returning!    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 17

    October 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Munda Biddi: Day 17- 25 October 2023

    Duckett’s Mill to Denmark 45 klms

    After such a fortuitous offer to camp within the garden walls protected from the wind I had a terrific night’s sleep and awoke recharged. With two days to travel Cormac’s suggestion to stay at Duckett’s Mill certainly proved to be a panacea to my waning spirit.
    Rising with the sun and a plan to accompany each other over the remainder of our venture we were able to get away early and set off at a leisurely pace. With only 45 kilometres to Denmark, a fine day forecast and the Southern Ocean beckoning my trials and concerns of yesterday faded.
    Heading southward the trail meandered through luscious green farmlands with the inevitable hill or two and on towards the coastline. Oh how I’ve yearned for it! I’ve missed my routine of walking with the dawn and a daily dip in the ocean.
    Rising to the top of the hilly terrain we were greeted by views of the ocean that drew us onto Greens Pool and the rugged Denmark coast.
    Resting on the edge of William Bay National Park, Greens Pool is famous for its large granite boulders, green turquoise water and white sandy beach. Boulders surround the pool and protect it from the might of the Southern Ocean. And today it was resplendent in all its glory. Whilst the sun was shining there was a chill in the air and only the locals, some in wetsuits ventured in. Succumbing to its call we submerged to our knees and strolled along the beach.
    Meandering along the coastline offered numerous vantage points to survey the magnificent views.
    This region is renowned for its prevalence of snakes and we were not surprised to discover one or two slithering by.
    Weaving our way from the cliffs and along the paths through the dunes we came to Wilson Inlet and had the fortune to meet up with Mark who, on this his rest day, had come to swim and relax recounting his childhood memories.
    Together we ventured on to Denmark, lunched and took some me time. We’d meet up for dinner.
    Me time meant checking into the motel, washing clothes and going for a swim in the river. Oh so cleansing!
    Dinner was at the Boston Brewery -a couple of kilometres out of town. We chose to ride.
    After a wonderful days ride and knowing there was one last day I took time to pack and with a feeling of anxious anticipation I slept intermittently.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 18

    October 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Munda Biddi: Day 18 - 26 October 2023

    Denmark to Albany 83 klms

    Touted to be a relatively easy days ride - the final stage of the Munda Biddi proved to be just so.
    Knowing we’d not be challenged by treacherous or torturous conditions Mark, Cormac and myself set off at a less hectic pace than had been my norm on many previous stages of the trail.
    Tracking alongside Wilson Inlet and crossing the Denmark River the single track with glorious views of the water lead us onto flat gravel farm roads and bush tracks.
    Morning tea was at the Surf Shack Cafe that adjoins the local well renowned Surfboard Museum. Whilst we arrived before the 10:00am opening the custodian couple, born and bred locals, were eager to cater our caffeine penchant and we added a cake or two. As our host, who no doubt could chat all day explained the historic past of the once was dairy, come workers quarters and now rustic popular entertainment venue we motioned toward our bikes. Granting us leave and a parting quib, he mentioned that bikepackers are a more sociable bunch than are the hikers who pass through. That’s a plus for bikepackers- a different kind of cyclist.
    Soon after, Mark diverted from our path to spend a night and a lay day at Cosy Corner to recount childhood memories. We were to catch up again once he makes it to Albany.
    Our journey onwards to the township of Elleker and the petrol station come general store for lunch, gave us the chance to experience a big, fast downhill run along well maintained gravel roads. All of which came after our conquering yet one more steep accent. Yeah!
    It’s always wise to refer to travel notes and local knowledge and the warnings with respect to snakes being more prevalent in this region were on point! Seen but not bitten.
    Entering Albany the final section of our trek was on the road into town with a not so gentle reminder of one of the many challenges encountered on the Munda Biddi.
    After weeks in the saddle it just wouldn’t have been right if we were to enter town without succumbing to a penultimate challenge - a hill!
    And it was a good hill to boot!
    Having negotiated that, our ultimate challenge was to find the finishing point of The Munda Biddi Trail.
    We did eventually, after a little bit of sightseeing and exploring as a result of a wrong turn or two arrive at the Albany Information Centre and the designated finishing area- the Munda Biddy Trail Southern Terminus.
    As is customary, we took a moment to sign our names in the official Munda Biddi E2E register.
    Finished! Kind of …
    There was the daily need to set up camp, wash and eat. For me a saga in its own right.
    Cormac, like so many who’ve bike packed previously, had months before, set a realistic, achievable schedule having planned biking days and lay days and their accommodation.
    As a novice and not really having a tight schedule booking accommodation had been a bit hit and miss.
    Astonishingly, accommodation in Albany around the city centre was scarce and I had no desire to be on the outskirts of town.
    Knowing that Cormac had booked into a Motel I visited its website and snagged a room at what appeared to be a very respectable price. A family suite, plenty of room to spread out shower and so on.
    Not quite so. A room on the third floor of the pub with a shared bathroom and nowhere to safely leave my bike. I’d fluffed it. Clicked the wrong button, booked the wrong room and I was flummoxed. As a culminating experience I’d hoped for a little bit of luxury.
    Realizing my error I returned to reception and asked if I might be offered a refund and or an upgrade to a self contained Motel Suite. After a stand off and a not can do no available room discussion during which the temperature of the participating parties began to increase when I asked for and then demanded a refund. Miraculously, there was a momentary pause accompanied by a click here and a click there and hey presto - a motel suite was available. Thank goodness!
    Checked in. Moved bike inside. Unpacked. Showered. Snoozed and dined with Cormac to toast and celebrate our Munda Biddi End to End achievement.    Read more

  • Stewart EglingtonMunda Biddi Trail 2023Traveler

    Day 19 and beyond

    October 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    It’s always beneficial to have a plan especially when it has to do with completing your journey or stages there of.
    My original plan upon reaching Albany was to hire a vehicle and dash down to Esperance approximately another 4 hours drive southward. This plan was going to allow me to view the southern coast, experience Esperance and then provide an opportunity to wind my way northward along the coast and perhaps call into towns that I bypassed whilst on the Munda Biddi. It was also to be a means of transporting my bike and gear back to Perth.
    Well, that was a failure. Not a single vehicle was available for hire anywhere in Albany. Humph!
    So, onto plan B and ditch the Esperance excursion and catch the bus to Perth. Could be done had I booked in advance. There was a bus service. One bus, two bikes allowed in luggage bay and all booked out for days.
    Damn!
    Plan C - the sibling effect and the C stands for Cameron. Now Cam had already provided great assistance and encouragement. It was Cam who suggested I give the Munda Biddi a go when after my paddle down the Murray I was contemplating my next adventure. It was Cam who dropped me at the trail head township of Mundaring at dawn on day one and picked me up at dusk that same day when bushfires changed my agenda. Likewise, it was Cam who graciously, dropped me off at dawn at Jarrahdale a couple of days later so that I could continue my adventurous endeavour. And it was Cam who selflessly offered to come and pick me up from Albany. Mind you, due to previous commitments and forward planning on his part he wasn’t able to make it down for a couple of days. Absolutely fine by me!
    Grateful for his offer, my return to Perth was sorted and I spent the waiting time sightseeing Albany.
    Along with Cormac, on our first official rest day I cycled up Mount Clarence to visit the Desert Mounted Corps Memorial, a tribute to the soldiers who fought at Gallipoli in World War One. It stands near the peak of Mount Clarence as a tribute to the soldiers whose last view of Australia would have been of Mount Clarence. It is truly a heartfelt and moving experience. The museum should be a must do when visiting Albany.
    Over the next couple days I had time to reflect upon my experiences, and catch over dinner or breakfast with fellow Munda Biddians for whom I am grateful. It is not until we step out of comfort zone, challenge ourselves and summon up the courage to take a risk either physically or emotionally that we realize it’s ok to falter, to reassess our options or even ask for help.
    Whilst on this journey there were times when I yelled with glee or screamed in frustration yet always with the goal to complete the Munda Biddi.
    It was never my intention to travel with others for I often am concerned that I will be their achilles and perhaps hamper their endeavour and the enjoyment and challenge they seek. Yet it was on this occasion as I have experienced before simply a matter of time that support, encouragement and camaraderie of the challenge takes hold. Friendships evolve.
    Yes, I wanted to do it myself and yet if I hadn’t happened upon the following people my journey may not have been as fulfilling and rewarding and downright difficult. I might not have even finished!
    Thanks Cormac and Mark - the last couple of days on the trail were great. Thanks too Lisa and Ian with whom I shared a campsite and dinners and breakfasts along the way. Lastly, had it not been for the three wise men - Tim, Roger and Doug and their mechanical nouse my brake my well have remained broken and my journey terminated!    Read more

    Trip end
    October 26, 2023
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