A 21-day adventure by Stewart Read more
  • 19footprints
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  • 21days
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  • 510kilometers
  • Day 1

    Day 1

    October 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Mundaring to Carina Hut to Mundaring 44.7 k|ms and yet I clocked up 138 klms!!!

    Let me begin ...
    Munda Biddi means path through the forest and this trail is the longest continuous one of its kind in the world.
    Spanning from Mundaring near Perth to Albany on the south western coast of Western Australia the trail is about 1032 kilometres E2E (trail talk - End to End). My plan is to complete the journey in about 21 days.
    It's been 12 months in the planning and hopefully all the training, reformer pilates, stretching, hours on the bike along with the practice of disassembling and assembling it coupled with packing and unpacking the storage bags so that it can be packed in a hard case for transport interstate has prepared me to take on my Munda Biddi challenge.
    Mind you, I had not planned for today's eventual outcome.

    Away at dawn - beautiful!
    A wrong turn - embarrassed!
    (considering it added an extra 100 kilometres to the days tally)
    Retracing the mistake- exasperated!
    Eventually on course- relieved!
    Engulfed by bush fire smoke - perplexed!
    Not quite there yet- pondering!
    Personal safety - anxious!
    Return to the start! Reassessment!

    Planning a few days respite to see if the hot weather and fires abate.
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  • Day 5

    Day 2

    October 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Jarrahdale to Dwellingup - 75 klms.

    Back on track and a day dominated by pea gravel, steep inclines, steep declines and pea gravel. OMG! Pea gravel, has to be ridden to be believed. If you can imagine wheel spinning up hill and skidding down with a minimal adhesion, non- directional steering and a knowledge that there’s a ripper of a chance of eating dirt - then that’s pea gravel and my goodness it was a challenge.
    Having spent a couple of days back in Perth avoiding the effects of a controlled burn off that tempered my first attempt I was raring to go so with a dawn departure I hastened my getaway.
    Leaving Jarrahdale I descend down to the Serpentine River crossing before a steep climb and off towards North Dandalup. Reaching the Danalup hut (where I’d planned to camp) sooner than expected I decided to push on to Dwellingup. Push indeed!
    All day I encountered stunning stands of trees, glorious vistas, the light and shade as the sun’s rays permeated the canopy, birdsong and picturesque displays of wildflowers and pea gravel.
    Along the way I was greeted and passed by five fellow Munda Biddians with Dwellingup their overnight resting place. Mine too … I’d hoped.
    Content that they too had enjoyed the pea gravel just as much as me - albeit with a tad more skill and speed - it was Dwellingup or bust by sunset.
    Indeed, I did make it in before dusk, checked into the Dwelly Pub, washed away today’s grime, had a scrumptious burger and chips and rather dejectedly set about formulating a maintenance plan. Coupled with the trials and tribulations of pea gravel the second half of my day was spent traveling in the highest gear - terrific if negotiating firm ground and steep ascents yet not so for all other encounters. Why? Because I encountered a mechanical problem and my only way out of town is to have the issue addressed by the local bike mechanic in the morning. Dreaming of a successful solution and another day in the saddle … good night
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  • Day 6

    Day 3

    October 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Dwellingup 0 klms
    Awake very, very early so I ventured out on a local Dwellingup reconnaissance seeking the Trails and Visitors Center that includes the Waypoints Cafe and the bike shop. Woohoo! Found them!
    And then as the township slept I’d established a plan and it was all dependent on things falling into my predetermined strategy.
    6:30am - plenty of time for a wander and have things packed and be ready to scoot
    8:00am - coffee and breakfast
    9:00am - mechanical diagnosis and remedy
    Soon after, during the morning - on the trail.
    What luck! A terrific, hot, aromatic, heart warming, soul fulfilling coffee, and a scrumptious breaky wrap. Joining me were fellow Munda Biddians offering warm greetings and best wishes upon my repairs. In actual fact, the three most helpful blokes had a squiz, shook their heads and nodded and in agreement said a bike mechanic would be best skilled to solve my conundrum.
    As the clock chimed 9 (in my head) the bike shop opened and I sauntered in hopes high and was greeted by Colleen - a jubilant, vivacious soul whose presence soothed my anxiety whilst I gained the confidence to ask for assistance. Delighted to know that they have a bike mechanic yet disappointed that today is his day off! Damn! Noting the wind fall from my sail Colleen checked with Paul the mechanic and assured me that he’ll be in by 9:00am tomorrow. Ripper!!!
    Thankful and resigned to a day of dawdling, I further explored Dwelly and what remains of the Hotham Railway train line and the trains it serviced.
    As the day passed, I began tossing up alternative arrangements should things not go to plan. I even test rode a bike in the inevitable chance that mine would not be fixable.
    Whilst a great test ride the bike is not set up for my purposes. Could be a good sign … at any rate - I’ll sleep on it.
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  • Day 7

    Day 4

    October 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Dwellingup to Bidjar Ngoulin - 32 klms

    Wide awake with anticipation that all will be fixed and I’ll be on my way I went for a walk. Walking with the sunrise recharges me and reminds me that with the dawn comes a new day that beckons a positive energy for what may eventuate.
    With nearly two hours until the cafe opened I readied myself for a quick getaway. I’d removed all the bags, water bottles, tent and anything else that might hamper access to all parts gears and gizmos.
    With everything crossed and a positive vibe I took my bike to breakfast. Armed with an extra hot flat white and an “Avo Nice Day” breaky - sourdough, avocado, feta and poached eggs I perched myself at a table all but facing the bike shop I just knew/hoped things were going to be better than yesterday.
    Deep into Wordle to pass time, I was approached by a woman who introduced herself as Claudia, the assistant bike mechanic. Whilst it was not quite 9:00am she said that they were expecting me and that Paul - the guru of bikes would be in soon. He’d spoken with Colleen and she’d outlined my dilemma and he’d spoken to Claudia who’d greeted me and said that they were up for the challenge and their mission was to get me back on the Munda Biddi asap.
    I watched as Claudia wheeled my bike into the workshop checked it in with Paul and the procedure began.
    Not wanting to hover or be a sticky beak I waited as if in the waiting room waiting for the diagnosis, the prognosis. So, I had another coffee, solved Wordle, thumbed through the newspaper in horror and despair with the dreaded happenings in Israel, turned to a magazine highlighting all the attractions of the Murray river region of which Dwellinup and all its activities features greatly.
    Now my mug was empty. It had been just over an hour and I could wait no longer. Cautiously, I wondered into the shop to have a browse at the cycling bibs and bobs and I was sprung.
    Well that was good timing Paul exclaimed. You know it really had us stumped. There was no broken cable and yet the shifter was stuck blah blah blah bike terminology. Finally, we’d established that the cable was “pinched”. How or why we’re not sure but it’s good to go.
    With glee in a roundabout sort of way they expressed their thanks. You see, mine was the first gravel bike they’d worked on and they went on to explain that this conundrum was a real learning process.
    Strange how one’s own dilemma solves another’s. Hmmm!
    What a terrific bargain- $30.00 for their expertise I was away.
    And oh, what a wonderful experience today turned out to be.
    Although the late start meant I’d have a shorter journey there were some glorious moments to share. Pea gravel was all but nonexistent. The track was hard and gentle with hills that my gearing allowed me to wind my way up and down with speed and exhilaration that I’d missed over the last 48 hours. I rode through the hilly Lane Pool reserve, along the Murray River, (a different Murray River)saw and heard running water and am now camped at Bigjar Njoulin hut. There are four of us here tonight- Ross from Fremantle but England originally. He is a bikepacker extraordinaire. If it’s rideable he’s done it all over the world and he estimates that this about his tenth Biddi Bash!!! Jim and Jock great mates who met playing table tennis. Jock is the better table tennis player whereas Jim is the younger by about 20 years is a more proficient rider.
    Interesting to hear their stories and yet there is a common bond - we all detest pea gravel. Ross too! Mind you he encourages us to hang in there for the next day or so as the track surface becomes harder and more stable. We are all endeavoring to make it to Lake Brockman tomorrow.
    Delighted! My tent is up. My bed is made.
    My tummy is full. The temperature is plummeting and I’m warm and dozing.
    Thank goodness for the kind caring helpful souls that sent me on my way. Sleep tight!
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  • Day 8

    Day 5

    October 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Bidjar Ngoulin to Lake Brockman- 37 klms

    It was cold overnight. A see your breath in your tent kinda cold and has one contemplating a dash to the loo or a restless night. Dash completed, added a beanie and a jacket and I went out for the count. I struggle to sleep at the best of times and whilst I tossed and turned I did manage to string some zeds together.
    Awaking with the birds - I’d packed, had breakfast and was on my way as the others stirred. We agreed to catch up later in the day.
    Pottering along I was gladdened to note that the surface was indeed harder and faster. Oh yeah! That didn’t last long.
    Some of todays sections featured washed away tracks some more really steep hills, pea gravel and sand. Needles to say - more pushing and walking.
    However, the end certainly justified the intolerable surfaces. Lake Brockman and its stunning crystal blue water is astonishing.
    It was well over 30 degrees and building as I sighted the Lake. There and then I’d committed to test the waters - once I’d sought a camping spot, lunch, coffee and a cold drink.
    I’m staying at the Lake Brockman Tourist Park and camping ground and it’s all but booked out.
    I was offered two options. The first a single powered camp site amidst everything and was warned that it would be busy and noisy and a bit of a trek to the ablutions block.
    The second is a glamping tent of sorts.
    I took it!
    Whilst I’m about 30 metres from the shower and loo I’ve a view to die for. Overlooking the lake with nothing but a beach of pea gravel to negotiate to reach the shimmery, shivering water.
    As I write, I’m in bed staring out over the lake. I can hear campers setting up as the day fades into night.
    I’ve already had three swims. It’s brain freezingly cold but ever so refreshing. I even wore my entire cycling clobber as I plunged in. Didn’t keep me warm but it came out cleaner.
    It’s going to be another cold night and the wind seems to be building.
    With food, shelter and a warm bed I’m stoked that today has been such a terrific experience.
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  • Day 9

    Day 6

    October 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Lake Brockman to Collie - 89.3 klms

    It was going to be difficult to top yesterday.
    Initially, I’d planned to reach Collie in two days staying overnight at Yarri Hut and the the following day arrive in Collie.
    Having slept really well I was up and away by 6:15am and reached the hut by 11:15am so decided to lunch it and head onward.
    It turned out to be a very hot day and staying hydrated was a priority so topped up all water vessels at Yarri then pushed for Collie.
    I knew I’d encounter pea gravel but not nearly the grinding, slip, sliding to a halt stuff that had me cursing in previous days.
    Yes, there were also some walk ‘em up walk ‘em down sections but overall it has been an awesome day on the trail. I’ve negotiated sand, gravel puddles and burned out areas of bush still smoldering and fallen trees blocking the way. There were detours onto the highway which despite the lovely flat, fast surface are not my ideal conditions. Being passed at 100 klms is rather daunting.
    By far and away the most enjoyable features of today’s sections were the hard track surface, downhill sections through picturesque forests. Despite the heat it’s been a great day on the Munda Biddi
    I managed to snag the last available bed in the entire town. I’m upstairs in the Federal Hotel and am being serenaded by the band and raucous rowdiness below.
    I envisage another early escape and will decide where to stay as the day progresses.
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  • Day 10

    Day 7

    October 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Collie to Naglang Boodja Hut - 38 klms

    As is my routine I like to be up and away as early as possible but my escape was rather precarious. Not so sure about the safety of my bike and belongings overnight - I’d snuck it in, upstairs to the first floor. It gave me a chance to restock etc. That was fine, but trying to exit quietly down the fire escape with self closing doors only to find out that the back gate was closed was a bother. So, bike parked I had to re-enter the pub via the ground floor back door and out through reception.
    Collie is a busy town partly because of the mining and also the caravaners and tourists and blokes on bikes opting for a stay over in Collie. Whilst most of the accommodation is all but full most nights, it appears like me things begin early. At 5:45am things were stirring as huge trucks were rolling through town and Maccas just happened to be open and the place to be. With a muffin and a coffee under my belt I was away.
    After the effort of last couple of days I felt like I might to be able to make it to the small town of Boyanup about 65 kllometres away.
    From Collie, the first 28 kilometres was terrific, not so heavy going following bush and farm tracks close to the major Coalfields Highway. I even took time to miss a marker and by chance viewed the Collie reservoir and the vista was stunning in the early light.
    Back on track and things were cruising along just fine. It was about 11 km from where I’m staying tonight that I hit the so described fun section. Granted, fun for some but as I’m still getting used to the bond of bike person and track it wasn’t great fun. As a matter of fact those with the skills would have a ball descending the (not so) smooth and relatively (very) steep and tight turning switchbacks. After which you cross the paved River Road then climb for a few kilometres. An arduous task!
    Further on there was yet another tricky descent and whilst all indications of the trail went left and with prior knowledge I turned right - deliberately!
    This small diversion along a sealed road lead to Honeymoon Pool on the Collie river. This is a local camping area and picnic ground with the most beautiful swimming hole. I was totally whacked and the water beckoned. It was cold but oh so therapeutic. After a few dips and a chance to regroup I was headed for tonight’s resting place. Not before encountering a last descent. It is quite rocky and has several more steep switchbacks.
    The guide notes state that - “Experienced mountain bikers really enjoy this part of the trail, but many others find it a bit hard. (I did!) It is likely the most technically difficult part of the entire Munda Biddi Trail.” Gosh I hope so!
    Set on a heavily forested hillside, this hut is a peaceful place and I called today’s aspirations finished. I’ll reset my goals in the morning. Boyanup and beyond …
    Tent pitched and I’m washed, fed and exhausted.
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  • Day 11

    Day 8

    October 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Munda Biddi: Day 8 - 16 October 2023
    Boodja Hut to Donnybrook - 48 klms

    Roused from an extraordinarily good sleep by birdsong and a rowdy kookaburra I emerged from my tent to a not so chilly glorious morning.
    After yesterday’s mixed adventure it was wise to not push on to Boyanup. Knowing that I’m in for another hot day my hope was to have a late breakfast in Boyanup and lunch in Donnybrook where I’ll spend the night.
    Shortly after Nglang Boodja I left the forest and descended into hilly farm land with great views. Apart from the “inevitabhill”climb or three a substantial amount of the trail was downhill including some quiet gravel roads on the way into Boyanup. That is if you choose to take the 4 kilometre duck in and out of town offer. What swayed my decision to do Boyanup was the big sign with a coffee icon pointing the way.
    A toasted bacon and egg sandwich, coffee and a cold drink and I was good to go. Once back on the track out of Boyanup I continued to travel through forest and farmland and eventually onto a long, mostly downhill section of paved road into the Apple capital of Western Australia - Donnybrook!
    Had dinner at the only pub in town an am staying in a backpackers lodge. Fortunately, I’ve a room to myself. There is a real hum of people noise as I turn out the lights. It seems and feels like things keep getting better along the trail. Can’t wait for tomorrow …
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  • Day 12

    Day 9

    October 17, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Munda Biddi Day 9 - 17 October 2023
    Donnybrook to Nannup - 72 klms

    Hot … but what a hoot!
    This morning’s getaway began about 11:00pm and continued onwards all through the night. What began with the hum of humans transgressed into stirring conversations, creaking floor boards the clunking of doors and the endless foot traffic to and from the bathroom.
    Because I’d chosen this bed I had to lie in it. So by dawn I was eager to roll.
    The early stages of the Munda bid me well this morning, leading me through forests and pine plantations along flat gravel roads and to a freshwater not so full dam. I was hot, the sky was blue and I knew I just had to have a dip. Cool refreshing and time for a snack. I’d packed a banana on the back and I could only hope that someone else might enjoy a hit of fresh fruit. Darn it!
    With such a good surface, I was making great time so I peddled on through with Nannup in my sights.
    This firm single track follows a once used railway trackbed. It has few bends and gentle grades. It made for a fast most enjoyable session. Along the way I was raced by emus, escorted by a squadron of red tail black cockatoos calling out my name. Well it sounded so! I even had track sharing moments with of a number of goannas who just seem to own the trail and appeared to scoff as I offered a greeting.
    Reminders of the railway of yesteryear remain as you cross a few remaining wooden ex-railway bridges.
    Nannup is the HALFWAY town of the Munda Biddi and I’m camped in the local caravan park about 200 metres from the river. I went for a swim. It was refreshing and a great way to complete what has been a most exhilarating ride.
    Nannup is a pretty country town and almost everything is shut on a Tuesday night.
    However, on Tuesdays volunteers host the community dinner. All foods are donated by local businesses. Three courses for $8.00.
    Soup, curried sausages and rice and for dessert- matchstick pastry and ice cream.
    Wind is howling, leaves are chatting non stop, branches are creaking and my tent is flapping.
    Today - it’s been a hoot!
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  • Day 13

    Day 10

    October 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Nannup to Manjimup 84 klms

    It rained overnight! It wasn’t heavy rain and there’s something quite relaxing about being warm and serenaded by the beat of the rain on the tent.
    Well, that’s all and good until daylight filters through and it’s time to pack and go. Whilst the rain had ceased I was left with a conundrum - lie in and wait for things to dry or just do it. Do it, it was! Fortunately, everything but the tent was dry and yet the daylight was struggling and as I strapped the last few things on the bike it began to sprinkle.
    It was 6:30am and time for coffee and breakfast at the local, early opener.
    As I parked my bike a local farmer strode in for his regular coffee and two newspapers and we exchanged greetings.
    Need this bloody rain - not sure why it’s here or where it’s going but I’ll use every drop he stated.
    Wasn’t predicted I chimed in. Not so good for bike riding he quipped and winked. Hope you get wet, have a good ride he chuckled.
    I was yet to experience rain on the Munda Biddi Another first, and locals say it helps the pea gravel stick together. Yes!
    Misty hues and a constant drizzle stayed with me all morning and once the rain eased it was the clashing and splashing as I made my way through the bushes that became a highlight and challenge. Branches and bushes laden with moisture lashing out made it feel like I was negotiating a drive through bike wash. Wet, wet, wet and lots of fun!
    As I reached the village of Donnelly River the rain had all but gone and it was time for lunch. The lamb and rosemary pie with chutney was absolutely scrumptious.
    Overcast and a great run towards Manjimup. On the way I ducked in for a quick swim at Glenrowan and paused at one Tree BridgeI. Pedaling on I felt I may well have been part of the nativity. I eventually got a sign and when speaking to the almighty information centre I was informed that there were no rooms in the inns but there may be a space in the caravan park.
    Found a plot, pitched my tent, had dinner at the Tall Timbers - a local brewery’s restaurant and hit the hay early. Amen!
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