CanadaAlbertaBeddingtonCalgary International Airport51°7’51” N 114°0’29” W
July 26, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
So the day we leave arrives. All final packing and triple checking of passports in bag was done and we waited for the car to arrive. Scheduled for 3pm, it hadn't arrived by then - a quick call reassured us it was on the way and we were off about 10 minutes later. Traffic was ok and we got to terminal 5 about 3.45. Check in was very smooth with a very chatty lady and security fast track had no queues. As expected, Sam set off the security alarm, despite having nothing metallic on her. Her shoes were scanned separately and were fine so the only thing we can think of next time is her glasses to take off.
Found the lounge and after some minor irritation from Ed that there was no hot food he had some soup which was very tasty. We left for the gate in plenty of time to avoid any incidents like at Gatwick last time when we went to Lanzarote. No such issues this time and we all got seated row 3. Hearts sank a little when a mum got on to the row in front with three small children. They proved to be a handful and the stewardesses had to have stern words to keep them all seated at take off. Proved to be a bit of a pain during flight too, good job Sam was not trying to sleep as they used her footstool as a climbing frame!
Talking of sleep, we were trying not to so as to be tired when we arrived, everyone else managed fine apart from me - I barely got through the Lego Batman movie before I dropped off.
On arrival took a few minutes to attach the jet way, when we got off greeted by various pensioners in red jackets and cowboy hats seeing if they could help. Don't get that at Heathrow. Immigration was quick as we were first in line, nice chap asked us what we were up to and let us through to baggage reclaim. All came through OK, our new colourful tags helping us spot the generic black cases. We were staying at the Marriott in the airport terminal for convenience and it was very - just a couple of minutes walk away. We upgraded to a small suite so kids had a separate room and didn't have to share a bed. Ate in the restaurant in the hotel. I had some good corn chowder. Ed not hungry for possibly the first time ever so he just had some of the others chips. Then off to bed. Car pick up in the morning.Read more
CanadaAlbertaBridgelandEast Village51°2’47” N 114°3’29” W
July 27, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C
Had breakfast in same restaurant. We were all awake before 6, so went down there for 7. Various options, I had the special which had a cinnamon cake alongside the potato muffins and bacon. Others had the more normal sausage and bacon. Each came with some kind of pickled curly kale.
Short walk to rental car centre and Avis. No queue and process was quick - was persuaded to buy extra breakdown cover which I'm not sure whether we needed but idea of breaking down in the mountains somewhere didn't seem a good one. Car was a Jeep Grand Cherokee, almost new with only 3,000 km on the clock. Luggage space was a bit tight but managed to get all the bags in. Plugged in the Skyline Luge to the Waze sat nav and off we went. Took about half an hour to get there from the airport. It's at the site of the Calgary Winter Olympics and we could see the ski jump tower in the distance as we approached. We were there about 9.30, luge opened at 10 so we were first in the queue. It's the same company that we did it with in Queenstown and Rotorua. Sam never did it there and kids were very nervouse for some reason, but everyone said they would have one go. Up the chair lift we went, got our little instruction on steering and stopping and off we went. I zoomed off first, was great fun. Course is just under 2km and winds down the mountain. Others were a bot slower and I waited for them at the bottom. As expected all wanted to do it again and this time kids and I all sped down together. Sam was still more cautious but enjoyed it I think. She stopped at two rides we went again. Kids attitudes had now changed and rather than nervous they were getting annoyed if they encountered someone moving slower blocking their way! In the end Ed did 4 rides, Tash and me 5 and Sam the 2.
We then went across to the Canadian Sports Hall of Fame museum. Don't know much about Canadian sports people (saw a statue of Wayne Gretzky who I had heard of), but the museum had some fun interactive stuff where you could hit hockey pucks at a goal, kick field goals, score penalties, shadow box with Lennox Lewis and do mock commentaries on events. Good fun for the admission price. Building was unusual as it sloped from the outside.
We had thought about doing the mini golf but decided we were tiring and it would be too hot so headed back to the car. On the way a gardener turned on some sprinklers as we walked past and we got a soaking - pleasant in the heat. Had to walk through the middle of the Olympic bobsleigh track. Just missed some people coming down - they do it on wheeels in the summer. Banking on the track was pretty frightening to look at. Didn't fancy doing it ourselves!
Bought some more drinks for the trip - discovered that Canada has Cheetos, so got some of them, Also various cuddly toys etc. Car will be overflowing by the end of the trip.
Drive to Canmore was only about 50 minutes. The Rockies loomed up in front of us as we got closer looking unreal like a film backdrop painted on. Found our hotel - Stonebridge Mountain Resort and room very nice, double bedroom suite with view across to the mountains. When we got out the car we could really smell the smoke from the forest fires and the air was a but hazy. Reception recommended the Iron Goat pub to eat (which I had read good reviews on Tripadvisor) so we drove 5 minutes to there. Friendly staff and good views of the mountains. Eclectic menu - Sam had steak, Tash Gnocchi, Ed tagliatelle and I had Bison, Elk and moose meatloaf. All very tasty. Cream puff and a peanut butter pie for dessert. All too full after that. Drove to Main Street in Canmore. Lots of unusual shops - looked like an old cowboy town from the films. Had a farmers market - we got some really tasty beef jerky in teriyaki and some bread. Went to a small grocery store and got cereal and milk and a liquor store for a bottle of Cabdian wine. Then back to hotel, watched bit of tv and went to bed about 8.30pm. Sleep patterns hopefully getting better.Read more
CanadaAlbertaCanmoreCanmore Creek51°5’11” N 115°22’22” W
July 28, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
We all woke up early again, about 6am. Had some breakfast and decided to drive down to the Tourist Information office a couple of kilometres away. It opened at 9, so we left just before. As usual getting Tash ready to actually leave was a challenge - the time between her saying she is ready and then actually being able to leave is normally around 10 minutes!
Found the Tourist Information, picked up some stuff on Banff, Jasper, Lake Louise and Canmore and had a chat with one of the guys there, He had never heard of Cross Zee ranch where we were doing our horse ride - slightly worrying!
We headed off to Cross Zee Ranch just a few minutes out of town. Well sign posted and we drove up a hilly drive and parked up. No-one around though there were some saddled up horses (which Tash thought were cows initially). Went up to the barn and pulled the horseshoe bell as instructed which made a huge ringing sound something akin to a church bell. Brenda appeared from upstairs and took our payment and we signed waivers, The whole place was very nicely set up - they have a big barn where they do events, weddings etc. Brenda asked if Ed wanted a helmet, not obligatory, but they had some kids ones - he tried them but they were too small, so no helmet. If you fall, don't land on your head was the joking advice! Brenda said Wiley would be with us shortly to take us out and sure enough a lad in early 20's came down - cool name Wiley! He had a proper cowboy hat, reassuringly and went to get the first horse.
First on was Ed on Katy - the friendliest horse as we had said he was nervous. He hopped on fine, adjusted straps and got lead across the yard to stand and wait for the rest of us. Me next on a much bigger horse called Frosty - turns out Katy was Frosty's mum, which pleased Ed. I waited next o him and Tash was next on Steve. She was warned Steve is an eater - he likes to nibble grass at every opportunity on the walk so needs a firm hand. Tash was impressed Steve was rocking the highlights mane look - brown horse with white mane! Last up Sam on Winnie. We had a couple of photos taken with Rockies and barn in the background - the Rockies looked spectacular this morning with the sun on them and none of the smoky haze of yesterday,
The horses had a pecking order they liked to ride in, the same as the mounting order, so Ed was following Wiley on his horse Ernie, then me, Tash and Sam at the end. Ernie was reluctant to leave the yard - turned out he needed to go to the loo before he went. Wiley warned Ed he was a windy horse so Ed might get the smell! Wiley said if we see any wildlife don't scream - it scares the horses and scares him!
We all followed in line down a single track through the forest. It was cooler and pleasant out of the direct sun but still a lovely day. Wiley had been doing the guiding for three years and said they had a record day yesterday seeing 5 bears - he thought the smoke had confused their smell and meant they didn't avoid the horses. We weren't sure if we wanted a bear encounter while on horsebacl or not....
Tash was hilarious in constant talk with Steve, who did indeed try and eat at every possible moment. "Stop that Steve" became the catchphrase of the ride. At the spot where they had seen a bear and three cubs yesterday Ernie got cautious, remembering what he had seen the day before. Wiley pointed out where the bears had been - the three cubs up a tree and the mum at the bottom to defend. They were about 4 yards away from the trail. Wiley was very nonchalant saying they stopped to try and take photos but the mum got skittish so they moved on. Ernie then reared up a bit, causing all of us to have a surge of adrenaline. Turned out to be a squirrel in the bushes, but the horses are nervous until they know what it is that they can hear - once they can see it is a squirrel (or even a bear) they are fine.
Sam had saddle issues as hers slipped sideways. Wiley readjusted but Sam had to keep pulling it back to straight - apparently Winnie was a very round shaped horse and so sometimes hard to get the saddle on. We saw a red kite nest and a robin's nest in the tress but no wildlife today.
The horses seemed to speed up as we turned to head back towards home. At one point Frosty wouldn't follow th trails and seemed to want to head down a steep slope. I was trying to pull him back and steer him the right way but he was having none of it. In the end we steered full circle and he followed Steve round the corner, then sped past him to get back in order. Wiley thought he might have seen the newly chewed log next to the trail which had been done by a bear overnight trying to get at the insects inside the log. He recognised it as new from yesterday and was worried the bear was still around. Once Steve went through and showed no bear he was fine to carry on.
Wiley suggest a brief trot, which we did for 30 seconds or so - it was quite painful bouncing on the seat I have to say and Sam with her loose saddle didn't really enjoy it! A further trot was suggested up the last hill, but Ed's horse was having none of it and the rest took their lead from her.
Arriving back we all got of with various normally unused muscles aching!
Back into town for a drink and sandwich on Main Street then we headed to the Nordic Centre, where the Nordic events of the 1988 Calgary Olympics had been held (the sister site to where we had been yesterday). We planned to do the Frisbee golf course here and rented frisbees and also bought some bear spray - peppery spray to spray at a bear if they get really close. Hopefully we will never need to use it. Can't take it in the plane and had to give id details to buy it.
After playing what we thought was the practice hole but turned out to be the 18th hole we were coming at from the wrong way we found the practice and realised we might have bitten off more than we bargained for. The hole said par three but was 140m or so round a corner with a very narrow track with forest and undergrowth on each side. Ed launched his frisbee at 45 degrees into the forest, which we did manage to find, The rest of us were more cautious, but it took us about 15 throws to get into the hole. Sam was not doing well and decided to quit and just walk the course. On the first hole proper a guy ran up and asked if they could play through us on the next hole. We said sure just play this one, we will stand next to the side. He warned their frisbee would probably land somewhere where we were standing (it had taken us about ten throws to get there!). We watched amazed as they curled their shots round the corner landing just in front of us. One guy's technique was to throw it like a tomahawk as he described it, which we then also adopted to lesser effect. They passed through and we carried on zig zagging across the course. Tash memorably threw one that went straight up and bounced off her down the slope. At hole 5 we decided to cut the course short and pick up hole 15 to make it 9 holes. We had long ago stopped keeping score and finished the 18th ready for a drink. An elk had wandered across the 18th while we were playing - clearly had observed we were never going to reach it with our next throws.
We smiled at the enthusiasm of the parties starting the first hole, as we had been until we realised how hard it was. A guy we met on the first hole had said it was a really tough course and there was an easier one in town that we could have tried. Still we enjoyed it, I think!
After a drink in the cafe we headed back to the hotel and down to the pool. A nice little pool, with a hot tub. Not too busy when we got there just after 4, but filled up around 5 ish as people got back. We had a dip in the hot tub, nice after the horse riding, then the kids went in the pool and played with a beach ball. Tash had chatted with a girl from Venezuela in the hot tub. Around 6 we went back to the room and Tash and I went out to get burgers from the nearby A & W place - very tasty they were too , including some great onion rings that Tash liked even though she doesn't like onion rings. Then watched some tv with a nice bottle of Canadian Pinot Gris wine. Found Ed had fallen asleep on our bed and so we moved him through to his own at about 8.30 and rest of us eent at about 9pm, still a bit jet lagged and also tired from activities.Read more
CanadaAlbertaCanmoreCanmore Creek51°5’15” N 115°22’19” W
July 29, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Woke up early again, about 6am, though only one wake up in the night about 3 when the train seems to come through Canmore each night! Used the morning to walk into Canmore via the Policeman's Creek Boardwalk, which followed a stream along into town. We needed some bite cream from a chemist, which we found and a strap to hold Sam's glasses on whilst rafting, which we didn't. Tash looked at some sunglasses in there but none took her fancy - her pair fell apart yesterday when she dropped them, need a new screw when we get home. Ed had spotted a juice bar so we went there - kids had large mango madness smoothies, two espressos for us.
Lady in the chemist had said a sunglasses shop a block away would have the strap Sam needed so we headed there. The owner was very chatty and we discussed the local bears and bear safety and he recommended a couple of hikes around Banff (Johnston Canyon, which we had earmarked for tomorrow and Larch Valley. Also recommended the Tea Shop hikes at Lake Louise and the Little and Big Beehives). Meantime a strap was found by Sam and some sunglasses by Tash - initially Michael Kors, then Ray Bans, which were purchased with the promised birthday money from various folks.
Bid farewell and headed to the Museum to find a toilet. Went into the museum which was small but interesting on mining history of Canmore, with some good interactive displays. Ed especially enjoyed the microscope for examining rock samples, but also good at looking at a splinter in his finger. Decided to get bread and meat from supermarket for lunch back in hotel before heading to rafting location. Walked back along the Boardwalk and ate and changed then headed off.
About half hour drive got us to the Nakoda Lake Lodge where the home base of Chinook rafting was. We thought we were early but there were already a lot of people there (turned out in all there were 14 boats of 9 or 10 people each going out that afternoon). We checked in, filled in the waiver forms and then had to get our kit. An Aussie guy talked us all through it (how do you spell wetsuit, that's right there's no. P in it so please don't pee in ours) and we collected and headed to the car to change. Tasha's westsuit was too small so she got a bigger one. Ed's was long in the leg but fitted ok. First time I had ever worn a wetsuit, felt a bit weird, especially the boots. Helmets and life jackets were the last things then we boarded the old classic yellow school bus for the 20 minute drive to the starting point on the Kananaskis River. Our bus wasn't full so we had to wait for some latecomers. Gave a chance for one of the guides to tell a few jokes - best was what do you call.a bear with no ears? 'B'! During the journey we were briefed on helmets and life jackets. Life jackets had to be tight and when we got off the bus they were checked and pulled tighter - was almost difficult to breathe, but the reason became clear during the safety briefing when, if you fall overboard, youi're pulled back on by the shoulder straps of the life jacket. Various slightly scary demos were given of what to do if you fell overboard, boat capsized etc, though it was stressed that these were unlikely events on today's trip! The briefing was spiced up by various instructors carrying hemlenmts full of water up from the river and throwing them liver the crowd - our first taste of how cold the water was. We got our paddles, Ed being smaller didn't have one. He had an extra protective waterproof layer as smaller kids were down the front of the boat and liable to get wet.
We were assigned a boat with a family of 6 from Sydney, with our Canadian instructor Lyndsey. Getting to the boat was a slight challenge down a fairly steep rocky slope, with mixed grip from the wetsuit boots. Had to help Sam and Ed down. We were assigned positions in the boat. The smaller Aussie kids right at the front, then their mum and da either side, then their older daughter and Tash either side second row, then me and their grandad third row, then Sam behind me. Ed sat in the middle second row next to Tash - no paddling needed from him which he was pleased about. We got a few instructions from the guide on what to do if she issued certain commands, then put them into practice in the launch area before hitting the first rapid. Got down it safely though with a huge wave of water coming over the top of us.
We then steered to the side with the other boats and waited as each one tried to row back up the rapid and surf along the top of it. Our boat seized the moment and went for it and held the wave for longer than any of the others we saw. Our instructor seemed genuinely impressed with the coordinated rowing of the boat as we worked together. Further rapids followed with wierd names, all making us wet. The third one we went down with paddles raised to get a photograph of the boat, hopefully will b a good one there. Next wave was Santa's Beard, as that is what the water looks like, a white beard. We decided to go down it doing a. donut spin, which worked well and must have looked impressive to bystanders.
The last rapids part of the course was through a canoe slalom area, with all the poles hanging down. We waited half way through it to let the boats of another company go past, then were off again. This was a theme throughout, that we waited at points to allow all the Chinook boats to assemble and stay together as a group. After the end of the slalom course we were through the main rapids for the day, but still got some splashes from waves and currents. We were all nervous before the start but all would happily have done more of the rapids (as long as they weren't too much bigger than the ones we did), so safe to say the trip was a success.At one point the river got very shallow and we had to paddle fast then bounce in the boat to keep it jumping across the rocks on the bottom - we kept it moving just. At various points there were battles with other boats, involving much splas=hing and pirate like cries Towards the end we could slide into the water and float next to the boat for a little bit. Tash and Ed decided to go fo it, soon realising that the water was freezing when submerged in it. I pulled them back in by the life jackets, not the most elegant of processes and the wetsuits did their jobs in warming them through quickly - good job it was a hot day. Just before the end there was a small waterfall into the river which our guide said was called Lyndsey Falls (at least it was every time her boat went past)
The river got wider and flatter and we saw some of the geology of the area, where two plates meet . The river banks had layers of different rocks and at the fault line these met from opposite sides, with squashed rock in the middle at the fault line. The river we had been on was between two dams and these are only opened at this time of day and so can't be used for rafting at other times.
At the end of the journey in the lake before the dam we had another chance to jump in and swim to shore. I slid in and went straight under (it was deeper than I expected) and the cold water reflex made me gasp and get a mouthful of water. I was choking and thought I was drowning, though I was only 2 yards from the shore! Wasn't pleasant and can see why people drown falling into cold water. Anyway managed to get out, then helped out Sam who was suffering similarly. Kids seemed fine. Wet suit boots filled with water, though it was quickly warmed by body heat leading to a strange sensation all the way back to home base on the bus, with warm, wet feet.
We carried the boat out and lifted it up on th trailer then got back on the bus to head to base. A guide debriefed us on getting the kit off when we got back - he was very funny, notably saying thanks to us for coming as if we didn't they would all have to get proper jobs and they don't blend well into normal society!
Getting the wetsuits off was easier than on and we got hot chocolates (welcome despite the hot day) and a biscuit. Bought the photo USB then headed back to hotel. Ended up collecting Domino's as no one fancied going out - it's fair to say that A and W's famous root beer didn't go down too well with us.Read more
CanadaAlbertaBanffWhiskey Creek51°11’1” N 115°33’46” W
July 30, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
We woke usual 6ish aiming to make an early start to head towards Banff and go first to Johnston Canyon, an easy walk to a couple of waterfalls. I had read it gets very busy, both parking and the train itself, so we wanted to get there early. Managed to pack everything away and get some breakfast and left hotel at 8.15. Followed highway 1 to Banff and went through the gates to the National Park (we had our passes so could go through the fast lane). We came off to the 1A at Banff and followed its for 20 minutes or so. The speed along here was 60 or 50 km/h so it was a gentle drive - we followed a sightseeing bus. Got to the car park and ther main one was about half full at 9am. Some nice toilets which we used then we began the walk. It was a smooth path, often cantilevered over the edge of the canyon (Tash thought a bit like a safer version of those scary paths you see on YouTube in China). The lower falls were about half a milky walk and we got there in about 25 minutes with lots of stops for photos. The canyon was cooler being out of the sun so we were glad we brought jumpers. At the lower falls we queued to go into a little cave that got you very close to the water - just about worth the 5 minutes or so wait. Chatted to a Canadian couple who recommended Maligne Canyon in Jasper as bit less busy and still nice.
We headed off to the upper falls. Kids were beginning to moan about the walk but we carried on and got there in about half an hour. Upper falls were 1.5 miles walk. Lots of people stopped at the lower falls so this was less busy. The track just ended in a bridge suspended over the river that gave you a view towards the upper falls, maybe 3 or 4 houses high with two streams coming down. You only got the best view right at the end of the bridge walkway so if it got busier later a real queue would develop here too we thought.
Then headed black and encountered a busier trail with people coming the other way. Arriving back at the start we just caught last breakfast order at 11 in the cafe before it shut for an hour, reopening for lunch at 12. I had an omelette (green onions and ham, very tasty) Sam and Tash had steak, Ed wasn't that hungry so he had the fried potatoes and some steak from then others plates. We hit the shop for fridge magent and a cuddly beaver and wolf. Then back to the car via the toilets again - ladies were being cleaned, which meant a huge queue for the disabled ladies one. Not great timing right in middle of day when crowds were huge. Car park was full, as was the overflow one when we drove past and people were parlayed all the way along ther road for probably a mile or so, so definitely good to get there early.
Sat nav was troublesome as no mobile signal, but got one when we reached Banff outskirts and found the hotel. Room wasn't ready but we parked there and walked into town, about 10 minute walk. We had coffee in Starbucks, then bought some souvenirs, including Christmas decorations form tthe hritsmas shop. Banff was much busier and more touristy than Canmore. Lots of slightly tacky souvenir shops bit like an English seaside resort. But also sone designer shops, like Fjall Raven and Lulu lemon that all meant something to Tash.
An ice cream shop had a huge queue, but we went into a sweet shop that also sold it, with some unusual flavours (I had scoop of male nut and of tiger (orange and liquorice strip like a tiger). Very nice in the heat. Was after 3 now so walked back to hotel, room still not ready. Finally got into it at 4, had only just been finished. Had panic when checked gondola tickets, I had thought they'd were for any time after 4.30, but looked like they were for 4.30. The car park up there was showing as full so we were committed to the bus, with the next one at 4.37. Hotel key card gave free bus travel, so all we could do was head for that and hope gondola would be ok. Bus was on time and took about 15 minutes to get there. Went to guest services who said our print outs were our tickets so just join the queue. They were boarding 5.00pm, and we were just allowed through to join the queue and were on board our 4 seater about 10 minutes later. Panic over. The gondola went fast and summit was very high. Sam was not keen on it and held on tightly to Ed. Views were obscured a Benoit Buu smoke from the forest fires. We got to the top after about 5 minutes. The complex at the top had 4 levels, open viewing on top which we headed to first and took lots of photos, coopting others into taking us in return for us taking them. Parks Canada have a red chair scheme where they put red chairs in odd places on hikes etc for people to find - there were two up here which we had obligatory pics with. Next level down was a discovery section, with lots of interactive exhibits. We spent a few minutes talking to a chap behind a stand with an elk, deer and cougar skull. He talked about the wildlife and Ed was fascinated as always. Cougars can attack and kill an elk, hunting alone. Out the window we saw our first Mountain Longhorn sheep - looked more like a goat and we heard many people calling them goats. Other exhibits which were good fun included tying knots, which we think we managed correctly, compass directions, lifting heavy backpacks and footproints and poo of various animals. The grisly paw print was huge, definitely wouldn't want a swipe from one of those.
It was time for our 6pm sitting. A lady from Yorkshire seated us and our friendly waitress brought water and menus. We had some nice Canadian Rose, with 3 scallop starters and pork belly and egg for me. All tasty. Main courses took ages to come, maybe because of them taking extra care with Sam;s dairy free. We both had bison (aka buffalo) steak, Tash had seafood medley (which didn't come out singing a selection of show tunes) and chicken supreme for Ed.They were all decently when they arrived. None of the desserts inspired us and we headed down. The food had been good but spoiled by the delay in getting it. Was decent value when compared with price of a gondola ticket on it's own.
Kids got t shirts from the shop and me a magnet. Gondola down had no queue and we got our photo taken, which came out nicely. At the bottom the bus was 6 minutes away so week timed. The indicator board was accurate, better than the lack of ones in Putney now.
Room wasn't air conditioned in bedrooms, just fans, though was in the lounge area. All told Canmore hotel was nicer and cheaper, but being in Banff in the National Parl comes at a premium.Read more
CanadaAlbertaBanffMount Norquay51°11’42” N 115°35’26” W
July 31, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
Had booked for Tash and I to do climbing on Mount Norquay this morning - had to be there at 8.45 so had breakfast in hotel (toast, pastries and waffle maker were there along with some cereals). During the night my phone had rung, turned out to be Julie from the shirt framers wanting to sort payment for the Kyle Sinckler shirt. Called them back and spoke to a chatty Mancunian who was trying to grow their charity memorabilia side. He was friendly with Oasis and the Stone Roses and was godfather to Mani's kids! Left about 8 as the drive up to the Mount was a little windy and also good for wildlife spotting - and indeed we saw a deer in the vegetation on the way up.
Got to base station, went into the lodge and saw the Australian family from our raft the other day. Didn't see them again, so not sure what they were doing up there. We filled out the usual waiver forms, then bought some water bottles as the chap said we would want a drink up there. They lent us a rucksack to put water and jumpers in to carry around. Had to wait a few minutes for the rest of the group to turn up - a family of 6 from Holland. Chatted a bit to our guide, who said lots of Brits think it is a bit like Go Ape, which calmed Tash's nerves as she is fine with that. Word came through that there was a bear under the chairlift between towers 8 and 9 near the top. Sam and Ed were going to go up the chairlift to watch us a bit and have some food and drink at the cafe up there, so they went for the lift ahead of us to see if they could see the bear. They didn't, but more on that later!
Tash and I got kitted out with helmets (a fetching pink which pleased Tash) and harnesses. The clips were quite simple to operate and the rule was to always have one attached to the cable. We had gloves too, but found they made operating the cable tough so didn't wear them. We then headed up the chairlift, camera ready for the bear, who wasn't to be seen. We did see what I think was a marmot as it was too big and chubby to be a squirrel. Saw some mountain sheep too.
At the top we found Sam and Ed who showed us a great picture of a bear, which turned out they had photographed from a sign! We did a little practice climb to get used to clipping on and off and the metal foot and hand nailed in the rock. Ed and Sam watched this, then we were off and didn't see them again until the end. A few minutes of uphill walking on a trail and we reached the start of the climb. We clipped onto the cable and started moving sideways and upwards across the rocks, where metal foot holds and hand holds had been carefully positioned to supplement the rocks natural holds. We soon forgot that we were moving up as you were concentrating on the next step and clipping on and off the cable - this had to be done every time the cable went through an anchor point in the rock - quite often as that would be the point you would fall back to if you did. We were heading towards a rope bridge across a gulley (quite high up) and had some fairly challenging sections with some fairly big stretches required, but everyone made it ok. The youngest lad of the family got scared and needed some coaxing, but carried on. His sister was ahead of Tash and I and separated from her family so we swapped around at the bridge so I was first. I teetered across a plank then hit the bridge. It was a bit wobbly but OK as there were cables for both hands to hold onto and whilst the planks wobbled a bit, it was very go ape like this bit. The climbing less so as it was more like assisted rock climbing.
Tash followed me across fine. The Dutch elder kids wobbled the bridge for each other, but fortunately waited until we had got off!
A few minutes after the bridge we came to a flat area where we unclipped, had a drink and admired the view down to Banff, then off again with more climbing and traversing until we came to the end of the climb up. We then largely walked down though many sections were narrow and so we were on and off the cable at different times. Both Tash and I felt a sense of achievement having done it and were pleased we had. We agreed the 4 or 6 hour versions would have been too much - 2 hours was enough. It was very hot up there with no wind - unusually so and I ended up with sweat dripping off at times.
Our guide had been very good at being a calming influence and coaxing us around. He leant me a collapsible walking pole when climbing down as I had complained of the strain on my knees. At the end we gave back the equipment (except for a pair of gloves I later discovered in my pocket - a souvenir!). We were given a souvenir lanyard clip, which also gave us 10% off at the restaurant, so in we went. We ordered drinks and a meat and cheese sharing platter, which was very tasty. Whilst eating we got message from Sam and Ed that they were now back down the bottom and a bear was down there. We ate our food, then realised Sam had my wallet. Phone contactless didn't work, but I sadly remember ny Amex number so used that to pay and we went down. Saw lots of sheep (which other chairlifters we heard refer to as goats) but no bear. But then we got down and it was pointed out to us - our first bear sighting, just wandering through the grass meadow. Sam and Ed had seen two different ones - very lucky.
We drove back to the hotel and after a brief break in the room went down to the cave themed hot pool in the hotel. I leant a chap 25c in the changing room for the locker and we then chatted in the pool. He was a Kiwi and we talked about NZ, his Alaskan cruise (Chicago of Dreams was the boat - he recommended that company as smaller boats), time in Canada and his daughter who had been a nurse in London and been very ill.
Once we had got too hot we left and the kids went into the small gym and did some work on the cross trainer. Then back to the room and kids and I headed to the supermarket 10 minutes walk away to buy some food for tomorrow for the Icefield Parkway drive as there aren't a lot of places to eat along it. Once back we went to Chillis the restaurant in the hotel, which did some good burgers and fajitas. Also I had a large Granville Island IPA, very tasty and Sam and I shred a bottle of Canadian Rose, which was also very nice. We had a good chat over dinner and finished off with cookies in a fajita skillet topped with ice cream - cookie was essentially still doughy so was very yummy but too big to finish.
Retired for the night to start early tomorrow for the Icefields Parkway.Read more
CanadaAlbertaJasperCabin Creek52°52’16” N 118°5’27” W
August 1, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Today was a day for driving what is one of the most scenic mountain routes in the world, the Icefields Parkway. It gets busy so we wanted to make a fairly early start and so were down for breakfast about 7.30. Tash braved the waffle making machine and it turned out ok, after a bit of help with turning it over to get the timer started. Was pretty sickly sweet to have for breakfast though and we only managed a bit of it.
We got away about 8.15 and needed to fill up with petrol as there is none readily available on the parkway itself, which runs from Lake Louise to Jasper, about 268km. The Shell garage next to the hotel was open, but couldn't get the pumps to work until I realised I had to go inside first and leave my credit card with the attendant then pay at the end. The machine on the pump doesn't work with overseas credit cards, no idea why not. The attendant said that was the case for most pumps especially in smaller touristy towns. He was heading up the parkway later to see his brother in Jasper and confirmed it was a lovely drive.
We hit Highway 1 for 40 minutes or so to just past Lake Louise where we turned onto Highway 93, the parkway. I had downloaded a sat nav guide from a company called Gypsy that gave descriptions of what you were driving past and tips on where to pull over. It proved interesting for the drive and will probably download others for later drives especially the big one across to Whistler.
The first suggested pull off was Hector Lake, which on a calm day reflected the overlooking mountains perfectly. Lake was a bit rippley, but we took some pictures and used the toilets there.
Next suggestion was Bow Lake - this was much more reflective and very picturesque (not that the whole drive wasn't with mountains and lakes and glaciers). More pictures here then we pulled into Jimmy Simpson Num Ti Jah lodge, thinking we might grab a coffee, but it was very busy so again we used the loos them carried on. Our guide had told us about Jimmy Simpson and how he had started tourism at the lodge, letting people stay who travelled in the days before the road - apparently one Christmas he hiked for 5 days to have lunch with another hermit further into the mountains, staying overnight then hiking back.
Peyto Lakes was the next stop. From the car park it was about a 10 minute walk, quite uphill to the viewing point of the lakes, which was a brilliant blue colour due to the minerals (glacial flour) in it, ground up by the glacier. We were at the highest altitude of the drive here and the air was thinner making the walk to the view more of struggle than we expected. Was worth it though as the lake was a great colour and very stunning.
We had a couple of pull ins by the side of the road to take pictures of great views and ate the food we had brought with us, as advised because there are few shops on the highway to buy provisions. Next stop was after driving round the Big Bend, which was a big looping bend to pull over and look at Bridal Veil Falls - a big tall waterfall on the other side of the valley - again spectacular.Read more
CanadaAlbertaSunwapta Lake52°13’13” N 117°13’28” W
August 1, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
We then hit the Columbia Icefields Discovery Centre - the centre point of the parkway. The Icefield is like a big frozen lake with frozen rivers (glaciers) coming off it - the Athabaskan glacier is the one you can see from the centre. The Sunwapta glacier feeds the river that runs alongside the road for much of the rest of the trip.We went into he centre and bought a few things - Ed loved a moose pillow! I enquired about timings for the Skywalk and the drive onto the glacier. We could have done both but wouldn't have finished until after 5pm, so as we are doing the glacier walk on Friday just booked for the Skywalk now. Had to wait about 10 minutes then we queued to join the bus (I dropped the moose back in the car - worried as usual about how we will fit everything in by the end of the holiday, may need a roof box). The bus took us about 10 minutes down the road to the Skywalk, with an entertaining commentary on the way. Apparently water from here flows into three separate oceans depending on which side of the mountain it runs down. Slightly scarily the big rocks either side of the road tumble down from high above and sometimes the road needs to be cleared of them in the mornings.
At the Skywalk we got handsets to give us a guided tour then followed the path along the side of the valley, looking at descriptions of how the valley formed and the animals and plants that lived there. We got to the showpiece, a glass floored horseshoe shape sticking 30m out over the canyon. Sam just stepped on then quickly off she then confined herself to what they called the chicken walk, the concrete rather than glass path. I found it slightly unnerving to be on such a big glass structure, kids were fine with it. Funny how the brain reacts to things like that. We made it off safely and continued the tour back to the bus and the centre. It was an interesting experience and broke up the journey nicely. Back at the centre we got drinks then headed off.
Not too far down the road we pulled over at a nice waterfall that had the bonus of being on various levels that you could scramble up to fairly easily. Ed and I got all the way to the bottom of the top part, where the water was falling the furthest and stood in the spray of the waterfall. Think he enjoyed this the most out of the whole day, was good fun.
Next stop was Sunwapta Falls, only a couple o minutes walk from the car park and where a lake emptied out into a canyon with great force. A bridge across the falls made viewing easy and the power of the water was clear.
After this we had our first encounter with nature, spotting cars pulled over and duly joined them to see a female elk (we found this out later when the commentary told us they had paler coloured bottoms) which was licking the rocks by the side of the road (they do this to get minerals that they don't get from their plant diet). Took some photos and got very close (from safety of car of course).
Our last pull off was Athabasca Falls, quite close to Jasper. Close to car park and as spectacular as the Sunwapta - a bit bigger if anything. From here we headed to Jasper and Mount Robson Inn. The sat nav got very confused, essentially because it didn't realise you could access the car pal from the side so took us straight past and round the houses to get to the front entrance (it continued with this every time but we are wiser now!). We checked in, nice room with bunk beds and super king size for us. Got some recommendations for dinner from reception and walked the 10 minutes or so into town. Was very busy (as it is very small downtown area) and we couldn't get in anywhere to eat so went to Subway in the end, then back to hotel quite exhausted by the driving.Read more
CanadaAlbertaJasperCabin Creek52°52’15” N 118°5’27” W
August 2, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
Today started early as we were on the 10am cruise on Maligne Lake (pronounced male leen). Alarm went off at 6 and were down for breakfast just before 7, to find a large queue of elderlies on a bus tour ahead of us. They were on an 8am departure and were all over the place literally and figuratively, not knowing how anything worked etc! Breakfast was nice some hot sausage patties, little egg omelettes and pancakes., The first two weren like the stuff in a Sausage and Egg McMuffin. Was also, pastries, toast, cereal, juice and tea and coffee. We ate ours and grabbed a couple of muffins for morning snacks then hit the road. The Maligne Lake road is a haven for wildlife spotting - sadly we didn't see any. We stopped at Medecine Lake, which is porous at the bottom and is totally empty in winter, only filling in summer when the inflow of melting snow is greater than the ourtflow through the bottom. Realised it was cold currently, the car temp said 2 degrees. But sky was blue and sun rising so it was going to get hotter. We drove on and reached the car park about 8.30. The restaurant was open and we grabbed coffee and more pastries to eat. Took some great photos of the mist still clearing from the lake - mountain tops were visible but not the bottoms. Early bus trip cruises had had to be delayed due to the mist being much thicker. It cleared as we drank our coffee and the Lake looked beautiful.
We lined up to board the boat, second in line and were let on about 9.50. Bagged seats at the back as I'd read you could take better photos as the back window slid back and you had easier access to the outdoor standing deck at the back of the boat. 31 people on the boat, but there was talk of a Chinese group of 6 that were very close by. We were literally just casting off when they came running down, so they all hopped on. Tash and I were grateful we had moved to the double seat in front of Ed and Sam at the back as the other side were triple seats, filled with two people until the Chinese arrived and had to sit one on the end of every row.
We were off, slowly at first to avoid capsizing any folks who had hired canoes, as the boat created a 3 foot wake, then we sped up and were going pretty fast. Our guide gave us some interesting facts and stories about the lake and the surrounding mountains. We saw a helicopter picking up water to help manage forest fires and a bald eagle in flight. Apparently another nests near Medecine Lake and had survived a fire there a few years ago with his tree intact and hiding deep in the next when he was a baby so the smoke didn't get to him. One mountain range was named Queen Elizabeth and had been given to the Queen by Canada as a coronation present.
We sailed on through great scenery to our landing spot - Spirit Island (actually a small peninsula). This has great views back across it to the mountains that surround it - on all sides in an unusual box valley formation. It has featured on lots of calendars and banknotes and hung in Grand Central Station in New York promoting Canada for a couple of months - a copy of the picture was passed around together with some rock samples of the surrounding mountains. We took lots of pics and also visited the toilets installed here at cost of C$250k - very eco friendly but very expensive. Tash tried the doors of the cubicles and declared them occupied so we waited outside. An elderly Chinese man came and walked straight past us trying to get into one as the person came out. Tash was indignant and having none of it and said excuse me, there's a queue and slipped in before him. The lack of queuing etiquette from Asian folks irritates her! The fact when I tried the other door it was unlocked irritated me. Our kids just not good with doors!
The ships horn went calling us back to the boat after about 20 minutes viewing the island. A spear on it was put their last year by a First Nation tribe to whom the island was sacred and they blamed a forest fire near them recently on a lack of attention paid to the island. On the way back our guide asked everyone where they were from for the company stats. Some elderlies in front were from Florida and were doing a float tour in the afternoon. We had a chat with her about wildlife around the lake - they sometimes see moose swimming across or bears at the side, but rarely. The Lake freezes in the winter, but no skating as it is too deep in snow - cross country skiing and snow shoeing are the order of the day.
We landed back just after 11.30, pretty much as expected and went to the cafe for lunch - soups, stews and cake were had including a Nanaimo bar, bit like millionaires shortbread with extra custard and coconut. Jenny at work had told me about them, a lady from Nanaimo had won a competition years ago to device the best recipe using custard powder. Was ok but not my favourite dessert. Not much for Sam to eat so she had a banana. We headed back - no wildlife again, stopped again at Medicine Lake and Ed and I walked down to the lakeside and threw some rocks in. Sam stayed with Tash who was asleep!
Just before the end of Maligne Lake Road is Maligne Canyon and we called in. Got a lucky parking space as it was busy. Tash still asleep so Ed and I went off. There is a long walk that takes in 6 bridges across the canyon, but we went for the shorter first two bridges. The canyon was probably 200 feet deep- could barely see the water in the bottom in parts, but was only 20 foot wide at its widest and sometimes only a few feet at the top. The walk took about 20 minutes but was very spectacular and not too busy. We went to the shop and got some magnets and Ed got bit grumpy as I said no to ice cream until later when Tash was awake. Back to the car and she was and we headed to the Jasper Skytram about 20 minutes on the other side of down. A big James Bond style cable car that went up and down every 7 minutes or so, one side going up as the other came down each holding about 35 people/. We got tickets for the 3.12, leaving about half hour wait so had a drink and looked in the shop.
On the way up there is a guide in the car (from England) and he told us a few facts about Whistler's Mountain - named after whistling marmots that lived on it. It was the clearest day they had had for weeks and Mount Robson, the highest in this part of the Rockies was clearly visible with snow on top in the distance. We made for the cafe and decided to eat there and cancel our reservation in town until tomorrow night. Kids had burgers, and I had an elk meatloaf sandwich - very tasty. We decided to skip dessert and have ice cream later in the 50 flavours shop in town. We then walked around looking at the view and Ed and I went for the walk to the summit. The guide coming up had said out was 20-30 minutes but it was more like an hour to an hour and half and much further than we thought. We took our time and took some of the easy paths and saw lots of stone piles people had made. Ed did a small one on the less trod path, then decided he didn't want to go further so I left him building another and carried on. I went almost to the summit, pretty much the same height but not as far across the plateau. Took me about 15 minutes and decided to go back as didn't want Ed to feel lost. Got back to him and he was fine had just finished his rock tower - had been an engineering feat finding the right stones to balance on top of each other. We hope it will stay out there for a while at least. We walked back down and met Sam and Tash and took some more pictures, While we had been walking they had been acting as unofficial photographers for people, taking pictures of them. We joined the queue down, quite long and it took about 50 minutes or so to board. Encountered various rude people in the queue - an Asian chap who kept touching his girlfriends leg and also Tash's sitting next to her and an American guy who would not make space for anyone else in the cramped car down. Obviously not used to public transport. A 93 year old lady was on tour with her daughter - both sharing the driving around Canada!
At the bottom we headed back to the hotel, 10 minute or so drive. Sam did some washing when we got back, washing machine didn't empty and she had to get help from reception to sort it out and also managed in the melee to drop her room key under the tumble dryer!
Tash and I ventured into town to visit the 56 flavours ice cream shop. Ed was feeling full and so didn't come. I got a triple scoop dish, with Rolo, Kit Kat and Spumoni flavour (chocolate and pistachio). Each scoop was about 2 normal scoops so had sooo much ice cream. Managed to eat it. Tash had two scoops, rainbow sorbet and chocolate flavours. Managed them too. The ice cream parlour was full of cuddlies. We got back feeling rather sick.Read more
CanadaAlbertaJasperCabin Creek52°52’15” N 118°5’27” W
August 3, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 14 °C
Today we had a later start as activity was nearby at 9.30. So we went down to breakfast a bit later at 8. Was still busy but not as queued as yesterday. Sam witnessed some elderlies trying to put pastries and cheese into the toasting machine, until staff members screamed at them!
Breakfast done we ambled down to the Jasper Motorcycle company about 10 minutes walk away and arrived at 9. No-one was there but a lady appeared a couple of minutes later having been out to get her coffee. We went in and did the waiver forms then wandered out for a bit until the drivers arrived. A pharmacy next door gave us chance to get something for Tash's mouth that seemed to be a bit sore. Got some mouthwash prescription then went back to the shop. Drivers Rob and Rob were there so started to kit us out. Leather chaps, bandanas, leather jackets, helmets and sunnies all provided - we all turned into scary bikers.
Out to the bikes which were limited edition Harley's number 7 ands 13 of 15. Cost about C$60k each. Ed and Tash wanted to sit in the sidecar first as they were a bit nervous, so Sam and I were on the back. It was like sitting in a comfy armchair and very stable. We had a photo taken, then were off. The growl from the engine was brilliant. Rob told Ed and I that people would stare at us now and we were no longer tourists but tourist attractions because of the Harley's! We had opted for the ride up to Edith Caevll mountain, which I had thought needed permits to get up, but only for tourists, the bikers as a commercial enterprise could go up without. So we got a cool ride to somewhere we wouldn't normally get to.
The road up was proper Top Gear driving road, - the guys said it must have been designed by a biker as it was perfect! Lots of switchbacks and straights in between. Bear sightings did happen, but we were not lucky again today and didn't see any. Rob pointed out a gap in the trees on a bend where a bus had brake failure and ploughed straight through. After that buses and RV's were banned from the road. We hit a slower moving car so pulled over to a viewpoint for some pics and saw some hoodoos - harder rock within softer that erodes slower and forms spiky bits.
Went up again and stopped about 1k below the car park area for more pics. Ed and Tash wanted to swap to the back seat now and loved it. We got to the parking lot which was being redeveloped after a huge chunk of glacier fell off the mountain side a few years back into the lake underneath and caused a tsunami down the valley washing away the car park. Fortunately this was at 5.30am so no one was there. Whilst redeveloping, the numbers allowed up are restricted. We pulled over and walked a little way up the path for views of the Edith Cavell mountain and the glacier. Also Angel glacier visible, so called as looks like an angel with wings has fallen face down on the mountain.
Then back down. Rob had some fun with Ed teasing that the popping engine was him farting! He also slowed down a few times so he could accelerate up to the speed limit - Ed loved this. He showed Ed how to say hello in biker style - 2 fingers held out sideways, which Ed did to passing motorists. No bears again on the way down and with some time left we went via Beauvert Lake and saw the local golf club - great course but pricey food in the clubhouse it seemed. We said hello to some passing girls, who both answered exactly the same things in unison - very spooky.
Heading back to base a train was passing through town. These can be two miles long so we detoured round to pass over the railway. Rob took a detour as he said, like horses the first one back gets the best spot and he wanted to beat other Rob who had sneaked in front at the lake. We did just despite having to wait for some tourists to cross the road. Our bike was more powerful but had no reverse gear, the other one did. So Rob manually reversed in, making beep beep beep sounds as he did so. Rob talked about the massive RV's that folks travel around in and said the craziest one he had seen was towing a helicopter behind it!
We got our kit off and said goodbye to the guys, purchasing the pictures taken. Think this was the highlight of the holiday so far, certainly for the kids. Tash wants to do it again somewhere else, not sure there is anyone offering similar but we can look.
We had a sandwich and coffee in the cafe next door then headed back to the hotel to freshen up ahead of the horse riding. Many horsepower down to one. We headed up the 10 minute drive to Jasper Horse Riding Stables and arrived about 1.30. The place looked like an old Western Ranch and they had 30 or so horses saddled up ready to go - explained why they were flexible with the booking arrangements, they had enough horses and guides for people just to turn up and go. We were allocated horses, a little bit like the sorting hat process with Harry Potter, mine was Sonny, Sam's Sultan, Tash had Outlaw and Ed had xxxx. Our guide was an English girl from Bath called Jenny who had only been working there a couple of weeks. We set off just the 4 of us and her on a well marked trail that was a bit more maintained and wider then the last riding we did.
The horses were well behaved and the 'eaters' had nose bags on to discourage them from munching foliage. The path climbed a bit then came out along the side of the valley, with views of the mountains around Jasper and some of the places we had been on the bikes earlier - the lake for one. Jenny gave us a few facts about the area and the trees we were in. Some of them that looked like Silver Birch were Whispering Aspen - their bark was covered in white dust which was their protection against sunburn. They also had tumour growths on them and as they are all connected with the same root system, once one gets it many of the surrounding ones will too. There were more of the pine trees with the pine beetle infection.
The horses were very gentle to ride and it was nice in the forest as it was a bit cooler. Ed is now more confident on the horse and wouldn't be worried to do another trek after these two.
We were out for an hour and a bit and returned to buy the photos they had taken of us and had ice creams, then headed back to the hotel. Filled up with petrol again - went straight in this time and left credit card with the folks inside. We relaxed there for a couple of hours, went in the hot tubs and I dozed on the sun loungers outside before we headed to the Fiddle River restaurant that we had rolled over our booking from the previous night. Food was good they though weren't very adaptable with dairy free options for Sam. Most of us had fish as we had had plenty of meat so far. Ed picked up his breaded fish and chips with his hands - turned out later he didn't have any cutlery as he had sent it back with the starters and didn't bother to ask for any more!
We skipped dessert as we were full but also hoped to catch the ice cream shop open again - it was. We each had two scoops, which was too much for Ed - I had cookie dough and salted caramel, very tasty they were again.Read more
