Day 15
31. maj 2025, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
After a solid sleep (finally!), we had breakfast in the room, packed up our last few things, and made our way to Milano Centrale. We were early — no surprise there, it’s a flight attendant habit that dies hard. The station itself is enormous, with its soaring marble arches and cavernous halls that feel more like a cathedral than a train station. It was already buzzing with passengers, announcements, and the usual mild chaos of people trying to find the right platform.
We grabbed a coffee in the food court we’d scouted the other day and sat down in the waiting area for about an hour. While Ted ducked off to get something, an older Italian woman strolled up, moved his bag off the public bench, and sat down without saying a word — no questions, no hesitation. She clearly believed in the “first come, first sit” rule, bag or no bag.
Our train to Rome was the Frecciarossa — sleek, fast, and comfortable. The trip took around three hours, and although we were served a snack and water onboard, I wandered down to the dining car and grabbed a sandwich, coffee, and juice combo. Smooth ride, decent Wi-Fi, and plenty of legroom made it feel more like business class on rails.
Once we arrived at Roma Termini, we didn’t want to risk leaving the platform area and dealing with ticket re-entry, so we waited on the side until our connecting train to Civitavecchia. While we sat there, we watched a surly guy getting arrested (which involved some serious shouting), and then a woman came by handing out religious notes. No pitch or donation ask — just a handoff and quick blessing before moving on.
Our second train, the Frecciabianca, was noticeably older — dim lighting, tired upholstery, and definitely lacking the polish of the Frecciarossa. But the journey was short (just over an hour), so no complaints. Once we arrived in Civitavecchia, we paused for a moment to decide whether to take a taxi or walk to the cruise terminal. We chose wrong.
Even though the ship looked deceptively close, the walk took well over half an hour — dragging our bags under the warm sun, dodging traffic and fences, with very little signage to guide us. Eventually, we reached a checkpoint with a shuttle to the terminal, which we should’ve just taken from the start. Lesson learned.
Once on the shuttle, the driver had to dodge a constant stream of tourists walking in the road like it was a pedestrian mall. Still, we made it, and the cruise check-in was fast and easy. We received our Princess Medallions — no keycards or paper tickets, just a small wearable device that handles everything from room access to ordering drinks.
We finally reached our stateroom, which is a twin balcony room with an “obstructed view” thanks to a lifeboat mounted outside. Thankfully, we can still see over it, so it’s not a complete loss. The room is compact but well designed, and the best part? A laundry room is directly across the hallway. I was genuinely excited about this — the small joys of travel when you’re down to your last clean shirt.
After showering and changing, I threw on a load of laundry while we watched the safety video and visited our muster station. Then we headed to the daily LGBT meetup in the hopes of meeting a few other passengers. It paid off — we ended up chatting with a group of Americans (most of them also flight attendants!) and a retired couple from Sydney, Ken and Troy — also former flight attendants. Apparently, this cruise is turning into a reunion of the aviation industry.
We shared a few drinks with them before heading up to the buffet for a late dinner. While the food at the Princess buffet isn’t quite at the level of what we had on Celebrity Cruises, the staterooms are definitely better — more spacious and thoughtfully laid out. Plus, there’s something comforting about knowing we can now unpack fully and not have to repack or sprint for a train for at least ten days.
The ship itself has that classic Princess feel — understated, a bit old-world, with elegant finishes and soft lighting throughout the atrium and lounges. It feels less flashy than some cruise lines, but more relaxed. After racing across Europe, that’s exactly what we needed.
Tomorrow, we arrive in Naples — the first real stop of our Mediterranean cruise. And we can’t wait to explore.Læs mere
Day 14
31. maj 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
For once, it wasn’t sunlight that woke us — just the alarm. Thanks to proper shutters, we managed to block out the 5 a.m. brightness that’s been dragging us out of bed all trip. But we had a mission: get to Lake Como early and dodge the worst of the crowds.
At Milano Centrale, the station was already buzzing with chaos, but we found our train waiting on the platform. We’d paid a few euros extra for first class and thought we’d secured a quiet ride—until a guy boarded halfway through and blasted rap music from his headphones while sleeping. So much for peace.
Varenna was our pick over the town of Como — it’s smaller, quieter, and has that postcard charm without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds. The moment we stepped off the train, it was obvious we’d chosen well. A gentle downhill walk through ivy-covered laneways led us to the lakeside, where most people were already queuing for the ferry to Bellagio. We weren’t interested in joining the queue parade, so we turned left and wandered along the water instead.
Our first attempt at coffee didn’t go so well—the café we stopped at didn’t seem keen on serving anyone. But that turned into a win. We continued walking along the lakefront and stumbled upon Bar Il Molo, perched right over the water. Coffee, toast, sunshine, and mountain views—breakfast perfection. The only downside? A gang of opportunistic birds constantly swooping in for croissants.
After breakfast, we wandered through Varenna’s cobbled laneways and along its famous lakeside Passeggiata degli Innamorati—the Lovers’ Walk. We admired the view of brightly coloured houses stacked against the hill and took in the peaceful vibe of the village. We reached the gates of Villa Monastero, a former convent turned lakeside villa with botanical gardens and stunning lake views.
By the time we looped back toward the ferry terminal, the line for Bellagio had stretched into the dozens and was barely moving. Standing in the sun for over an hour didn’t appeal — so we went for Plan B: jump on a train to Lecco, another town on the lake, just 20 minutes away. Whilst waiting for the train we met another couple from Adelaide who had just been to Bellagio and mentioned how they hadn’t enjoyed it due to crowd congestion. It definitely made us feel better about our decision.
Lecco felt completely different. No queues. No crowds. A solid decision. While Varenna was quaint and romantic, Lecco had a more grounded, everyday charm. Though larger and less touristy, it felt more like a working Italian city than a getaway spot. Its promenade stretched wide along the lake, with snow-capped peaks in the background and locals actually going about their day. We explored the peaceful lakefront promenade, passed the Basilica of San Nicolò with its striking bell tower, and strolled through Piazza XX Settembre, the lively heart of the city. No tour groups, no queues—just calm beauty.
We thought we’d try to exchange some cash while we were there, but that quickly turned into a comedy of errors. Western Union sent us to the post office, the post office told us to try a bank, and the bank (after requiring a fingerprint scan and ID check) turned out to be an admin office with no cash handling. We gave up.
For lunch, we picked a small family-run spot called Santa Lucia. The waitress didn’t speak English, but since she was originally from Cuba, I was able to order in Spanish. Ted had a caprese salad he ranked as his favourite meal in Italy so far. I went with a simple pizza—and finished off with a final Italian gelato. Not something I normally go for, but it felt like the right farewell to Italy.
By mid-afternoon, we were ready to wind down, so we caught a train back to Milan. That evening, instead of wandering aimlessly for dinner, we explored the restaurants around Milano Centrale—and ended up at the food market inside the station. Great energy, heaps of options, and far better than you’d expect from a train station setup.
Tomorrow, it’s time to shift gears: we’ll catch a train to Civitavecchia via Rome, where we’ll board the cruise we’ve been looking forward to. So for now, it’s goodbye to Milan and Lake Como—both brought very different kinds of magic.Læs mere
Day 13
29. maj 2025, Italien ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C
We woke early again, and finally figured out why: it’s these ridiculously long European summer days. The light starts creeping in before 5 a.m., and our bodies haven’t caught up.
After our final pack-up, we dropped off the keys for our apartment and walked to the nearby stop for the airport transfer bus. It was already there waiting, and traffic was light — perfect start. At the airport, we dropped off our bags at the Wizz Air counter and grabbed a coffee in the food court, hoping to spend the last of our Hungarian coins. Turns out, we didn’t quite have enough for anything — but we admired the airport’s genius bike-powered charging stations, where you can pedal to recharge your phone. A rare “gym meets gate lounge” moment.
Boarding was smooth and we left on time. Once the cabin doors were closed, an insane number of passengers stood up and began changing seats — definitely not standard protocol back home at Qantas. One of my students, Mikolaj, who chose me as his English teacher specifically to become a flight attendant, actually became a flight attendant for Wizz Air and is now based in Budapest, so it was cool chatting with the crew who all knew him. Naturally, I got a crew selfie before landing.
Once in Milan, the brakes on landing were so loud they sounded like a train pulling into a platform. After baggage claim, we spotted a “Terravision Bus” into the city for €10. Since the Malpensa Express counter was deserted, the choice was easy. Forty minutes later, we arrived at Centrale Station, just five minutes from our accommodation.
We were greeted by our host Gisela, who showed us to our sixth-floor apartment — small but well furnished, comfortable, and full of character. There was even a blue emergency alarm button on the wall that Ted accidentally pressed, thinking it was for the bathroom light. Oops.
After sorting out a travel pass through the ATM Milano app (not without a few Wi-Fi hiccups), we took the metro to Duomo Station. A PA announcement warned us about pickpockets — classic Milan. As we emerged above ground, we were hit by an overwhelming crowd. A concert was going on in the square, and for a second we thought our chances of seeing the Duomo were gone. But we managed to thread through the masses and still got a photo of that awe-inspiring cathedral. Thankfully, we still scored a decent view — it’s massive, detailed, and lives up to the hype.
The Duomo took nearly six centuries to complete — it’s one of the largest cathedrals in the world and has over 3,400 statues decorating it, which makes it feel more like a sculpture garden than a church. The roof is actually open to the public, with a terrace where you can walk among the spires.
We wandered into the nearby Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II — Milan’s glamorous 19th-century shopping arcade. Even though I couldn’t care less about luxury labels, the place is impossible not to admire. With its soaring iron-and-glass ceiling, mosaic floors, and sheer over-the-top elegance, it felt more like a cathedral for capitalism than a mall. Fun fact: it’s one of the oldest active shopping galleries in the world, and the mosaic bull on the floor is said to bring good luck if you spin your heel on it.
Hunger kicked in, so we stopped at Erbert Food — a kind of upmarket self-serve canteen. You pick a tray, choose your freshly prepared mains and sides from stations, then pay at the counter. Kind of like a sleek IKEA food court for healthy people. A surprisingly easy and satisfying stop. It’s a local Milanese chain focused on sustainable and balanced meals, and it definitely made up for airport snacking.
Next, we made our way to the Sforzesco Castle and wandered its vast courtyards before reaching the peaceful Sempione Park behind it, which was a nice break from the busier city streets. The castle was built in the 15th century by Francesco Sforza (the Duke of Milan), and later expanded by the Spanish and Austrians. Leonardo da Vinci even worked here — he helped design the castle’s defenses and painted frescoes inside. Not a bad bit of side work.
At the far end of the park stands the Arco della Pace (Arch of Peace), a grand Napoleonic-style monument originally started to celebrate Napoleon’s victories… though it wasn’t finished until after he’d been defeated. Still, it’s one of Milan’s most photogenic landmarks, especially framed by the tree-lined paths of the park. The mix of green parkland and grand structures was a welcome balance to the city’s fashion-heavy vibe.
We jumped on a tram to the Brera district, a classy old quarter with cobbled streets, tucked-away restaurants, and that sort of quiet charm you can’t force. Brera is also Milan’s artistic heart — home to the Pinacoteca di Brera, one of Italy’s top art galleries, and a neighbourhood that used to be a magnet for poets and painters. Even today, it has that same creative energy.
But today was about more than just sightseeing.
Back in Budapest, while we were at Spoon the Boat restaurant, Ted accidentally dropped his wedding ring. It bounced off the table and straight into the Danube. We were both gutted. He’s been upset about it ever since. But today, he found a new ring in a beautiful little store called Demaldé. It wasn’t planned, but it felt perfect — and brought a sense of peace to a very unexpected loss.
We wrapped up the day with dinner at Obicà, a mozzarella bar with proper food and a nice setup. Everything about the evening felt celebratory, like Milan was offering a small moment of redemption. We went there originally because it was reasonably priced, but then we fell into our bad habit of having more drinks, desserts, and coffee — and before you know it, our “cheap” meal isn’t so cheap anymore! 😄
We returned to our apartment full, a little sunburnt, and very happy. Tomorrow, we’re off to Lake Como — but Milan, you were more than just a stopover. You were full of surprises.Læs mere
Day 12
28. maj 2025, Ungarn ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
The morning kicked off early — not by choice. Turns out staying directly across from a major cathedral comes with a less-than-silent alarm system. The bells of St. Stephen’s Basilica are beautiful, but not at 6 a.m. If you’re planning to stay in the square, pack earplugs. Trust me.
We had grand plans to start the day with coffee and a wander through the famous Great Market Hall, which technically was open when we arrived, though most stalls hadn’t opened yet. No problem — we figured we’d return later. We ducked into a nearby café called Mia’s for coffee and croissants, only to suddenly realise something felt off… no backpack. That triggered a fun five-minute debate over whether we’d lost it, left it, or hallucinated bringing it in the first place. Spoiler: it was right where we left it — back at the apartment.
Eventually, we took a couple of buses over to Buda Castle. The trip up felt like a bit of a maze — elevators, paths, winding walkways — and we never really knew where we were until we were right at the top. The castle itself sits proudly over the Danube, with manicured gardens, wide courtyards and some serious architectural presence. Just walking around the grounds gives you a good sense of the place’s scale and history.
Instead of taking the funicular back down (which felt like a bit of a tourist trap), we strolled down the hill on foot. On the way, we noticed just how many tour groups were clustering around — likely from the river cruises docked below. It’s the kind of spot where people follow a little flag and an umbrella and try not to lose their group.
We pressed on uphill again (Budapest has a thing for hills) to Matthias Church and the Fisherman’s Bastion. From the street, we weren’t expecting much beyond another grand church and maybe some views — but we were wrong. The whole area is stunning, like something plucked from a storybook. The church’s colourful tiled roof looks like it’s made of dragon scales, and the Bastion itself is straight-up fantasyland. Pointed towers, sweeping staircases, and arches that perfectly frame the city below. We took our time here — it’s easy to see why it’s one of Budapest’s most photographed spots. From the lookout, the Parliament building sat proudly across the Danube, and the city just sprawled out in every direction.
The Hospital in the Rock museum was meant to be our next stop, but it hadn’t opened yet by the time we got there. Not a big deal — we’d already done a fair bit of climbing, walking, and accidental backpack-forgetting.
So, we headed back across to the Pest side and returned to the now bustling Great Market Hall. It was alive with energy: stalls of paprika, meats, fresh fruit, lacework, and souvenirs, all layered over two levels of organised chaos. Ted grabbed a hearty Hungarian sausage and sauerkraut combo, while I stuck to the vegetarian stuff — potatoes, veggies and dumplings. Not the most balanced plate, but satisfying — and mercifully free of deep-fried dough. We were still recovering from yesterday’s lángos.
Whilst out sightseeing, I spotted two little signs that reminded me of Hungary’s quirky cultural contributions to the world. One was a Rubik’s Cube shop — an entire store dedicated to the colorful, infuriating little puzzle invented right here by Ernő Rubik. The other was the “House of Houdini,” a museum about his life, which gave me pause until I remembered: Harry Houdini was born in Budapest. There’s something fun about spotting these quiet nods to Hungarian icons — kind of like finding Easter eggs in the city.
After that, we headed back to the apartment for a bit of downtime. Since being out, the square had undergone a full transformation. What had been a regular day outside St. Stephen’s Basilica now looked like a snowy Christmas wonderland, glittering with frosted lights and twinkling trees — even though it’s late May. Turns out they’re filming a TV series called 12.12.12, starring Anthony Mackie (yes, that Anthony Mackie). We could see him walking around the set a few times between takes, but most of the filming was roped off behind barriers, so it was mostly glimpses and overheard directions. Still, not every day you casually watch Hollywood in action from your window.
We headed out for dinner at Frici Papa, a casual Hungarian joint that felt a bit more local and less tourist-priced than where we’d eaten the day before. I ordered the mushroom goulash with mashed potatoes — rich, earthy, and comforting — and chased it with a Nutella crêpe and a strong coffee. Ted had a classic chicken and vegetable soup, which he rated pretty highly. The place was busy but service was fast, and the food hit the spot without the usual hit to the wallet. Some of the dishes’ names were lost in translation though, such as “Boiled Smoked Clod” and “Dumps with nut and vanilla sauce.” 😄
After dinner, we took a tram out to Heroes’ Square to stretch our legs and soak in a bit more of the city before wrapping up the day. The square was dramatic and mostly empty by then, which made it even more impressive — statues of Hungarian leaders towering under moody skies. We wandered into the parkland behind it, discovering the grounds of Vajdahunyad Castle — a mix of Gothic, Baroque and Romanesque architecture that felt straight out of a fairy tale. The place was mostly quiet apart from a few ducks and late-evening strollers. A peaceful wind-down from a packed day.
By the time we got back, the movie set was still filming. Same scene. Same lights. Same snow. Whatever it is they’re working on, they’re definitely taking it seriously.
Time to start packing again — tomorrow we fly to Milan, and a whole new vibe awaits.Læs mere
Day 11
27. maj 2025, Ungarn ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
We kicked off the day with a 5:50 a.m. alarm in Kraków to finish packing, and our surly Uber driver (clearly not a morning person) whisked us off to the airport. We dropped our bags quickly and were on our way — though not before nearly fainting at the cost of two coffees and croissants: 97 złoty, or about $37 AUD. That’s one way to wake up fast.
Our flight took us via Warsaw, where we changed planes — or rather, stayed on the plane, since it was the same aircraft and crew for the Budapest leg. After a short 40-minute wait, we reboarded. Before taking off again, I grabbed a “crewfie” with one of the flight attendants (handsome, naturally — I work in the same field, after all, it’s practically professional networking!).
After landing in Budapest, we hopped on the 100E express bus straight into the heart of the city — a cheap and seamless ride that set the tone nicely. Budapest immediately struck us as grander and more open than both Warsaw and Kraków. Monumental boulevards, historic buildings, and that shimmering Danube cutting right through it all. You can feel its layered history just walking down the street.
We checked into Pal’s Hostel and Apartments, though our place is completely separate from the main hostel. It’s spacious, with tall windows, parquet floors, antique furniture, and a direct view of St. Stephen’s Basilica. When we arrived, the square below was buzzing — crews were actually setting up for a film shoot right outside our window. Not a bad welcome.
Feeling pretty wiped from travel, we wandered down to Molnár’s Lángos for a late lunch. Lángos, if you haven’t tried it, is deep-fried dough — basically Hungary’s take on pizza. Mine came loaded with shredded cheese, while Ted went for the sausage-topped version. Molnár’s hit us like a carb-loaded cannonball: hot, chewy, cheesy, and… let’s just say we were glad for the walk afterward. Delicious? Absolutely. Regretful? Slightly. There’s only so much oil one man can take.
We set off on foot along the Danube promenade, enjoying the fresh air and views. We stopped for a beer at Spoon the Boat — an actual floating restaurant — before heading to one of Budapest’s most moving landmarks: Shoes on the Danube.
This memorial, a line of iron shoes sculpted right on the riverbank, commemorates the Hungarian Jews who were executed by Arrow Cross militiamen during WWII. Each pair marks where victims were lined up and shot — forced to remove their shoes first, since footwear had value even in death. It’s hauntingly quiet, even with the city bustling nearby. Some visitors had left flowers, candles, or stones in the shoes. A few silent minutes there was unavoidable. It’s one of those places that says everything without needing to speak.
From there, we circled around to Liberty Square, home to a controversial monument about the Nazi occupation. The official statue shows Hungary as an innocent victim — but nearby protest displays tell another story: one of complicity, cover-ups, and the voices of survivors. The surrounding posters, photos, and pebbles placed by civilians add real weight.
We grabbed groceries nearby (I was genuinely craving a salad — a rare event for a half-German bloke who rarely eats anything leafy), and rested at the apartment for a while. As golden hour hit, we jumped on one of Budapest’s iconic yellow trams toward Gellért Hill.
After climbing what felt like 200+ steps, we reached the Liberty Statue — sadly fenced off for renovations. Still, the views from the hillside lookout were incredible. Even behind scaffolding, the statue stood tall: originally erected to mark liberation from Nazi forces, now a broader symbol of Hungarian freedom through turbulent times.
From the top, Budapest stretched out beneath us: the Parliament glowing across the Danube, spires dotting the skyline, boats sliding like clockwork along the water. One of the most scenic views we’ve had.
On the way up, we passed the grand Hotel Gellért — a stunning old building under heavy restoration — and the church built into the rock face, understated outside but fascinating.
After descending, we crossed the Chain Bridge, which was beautifully lit up at night. No buskers or crowds — just a gentle flow of people soaking up the calm evening air. It was one of those rare city moments that feels both cinematic and personal.
To cap off the day, we looped back to the Parliament Building, now fully illuminated. It genuinely took our breath away — the kind of view you try (and fail) to capture with your phone. Framed against the night sky, it looked like something out of a storybook.
First impressions? Budapest is bold, beautiful, and effortlessly walkable — a city that doesn’t try too hard to impress but totally succeeds anyway. Ted’s first time, my second — and already, it’s showing us both something new.Læs mere
Day 10
26. maj 2025, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Our final full day in Kraków greeted us with more glorious weather—warm enough that we finally traded jeans for shorts. Well-rested, we set out with a sense of quiet purpose, returning to the Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz, determined to understand more of its layered history.
We began with a walk to the New Jewish Cemetery, established in 1800 on the grounds of a former monastery. Though it was closed when we arrived, we paused at the historical plaque affixed to the brick wall outside. It explained that the cemetery had been destroyed during the Second World War, only to be restored in 1957 with help from the American Jewish Joint Distribution Committee. Today, it serves as a resting place for prominent figures like the artist Maurycy Gottlieb and Rabbi Ozjasz Thon—and as a solemn memorial to Holocaust victims.
From there, we traced the Jewish Heritage Route through Kazimierz. The route winds past synagogues, former prayer houses, and old community centres, and their faded façades offered quiet reminders of the once-thriving Jewish life in this part of the city.
Perhaps the most powerful moment of the morning came at Schindler’s List Passage, tucked into a shaded alley off Józefa Street. This narrow walkway is lined with photo displays and plaques recounting personal wartime stories. One that struck us described a man who hid for days under floorboards during the ghetto’s liquidation. Another told of a woman’s separation from her family at the Plaszów labour camp, and how she eventually survived and bore witness. The silence in that passage was profound—each story a reminder of how close this history still feels.
Our final stop in the Jewish Quarter was the Tempel Synagogue, a beautiful building that really stood out with its warm red brick and decorative detailing. Even from the street it looked impressive, with arched windows and intricate stonework.
By late morning, it was time to head out for our visit to the Wieliczka Salt Mine. We’d booked tickets in advance and disembarked the train a stop early to visit a nearby supermarket and pick up supplies. After a quick pizza lunch at the small bistro next to the mine, we joined the growing queue. The wait was about 20 minutes, and our English-speaking guide soon appeared—carrying herself with a voice reminiscent of the SBS “Viewing Highlights” announcer from Fast Forward.
Once inside, the experience became something truly extraordinary. The Wieliczka Salt Mine, over 700 years old, stretches more than 300 metres beneath the surface. This isn’t just a mine—it’s a subterranean masterpiece. As we descended over 800 wooden steps, the air cooled, and salt crystallised across the walls in natural veins and glistening patches.
The further we walked, the more interesting it became. Entire chapels and corridors have been carved from salt—walls etched with religious scenes, caverns opening into vast underground halls. One of the most astonishing highlights was the Chapel of St. Kinga, a soaring underground cathedral where every element—from the chandeliers to the altar—is sculpted entirely from salt. A rendition of The Last Supper carved into the wall stood out for its haunting beauty. Even more remarkable is that all of this was created not by artists, but by the miners themselves, in their spare time.
As we continued, the tour revealed salt lakes with glassy surfaces, sculptures of figures like Copernicus and Piłsudski, and whimsical scenes of gnome miners toiling away in the rock. The scale of it all was astonishing—not just in beauty, but in sheer ingenuity.
Halfway through, we stumbled upon one of the mine’s more unexpected features: a full-blown underground gift shop and café. Tables, shelves, and even the snack bar were embedded into the walls of salt. Sitting deep underground with salt chandeliers overhead was one of the most bizarre travel moments we’ve had.
The final stretch of the mine was even stranger. To reach the exit, we walked nearly a kilometre through winding corridors that passed museum exhibits, modern artworks, and what looked like an underground conference centre. The spaces were polished, almost corporate—another reminder of how many lives and purposes this mine has held. Eventually, we reached the final elevator—a compact metal lift that shot upward with rattling speed, echoing like a rocket launch.
Emerging into daylight again felt like surfacing from another world. Rather than wrangling with transfers or connections, we simply paid the small fare for the return train to Kraków. It was worth it for the smooth ride back.
Back at the apartment, we had a well-earned rest before heading out for dinner. After so many heavy Polish meals, we opted for something quick and light from the shopping centre food court. Not glamorous—but exactly what we needed.
With our bags now packed for an early Uber to the airport tomorrow, we end our time in Kraków with full hearts. Today, more than any other, wove together memory, wonder, and reverence. This city has revealed itself in layers—just like the salt mine below—and has left us with an appreciation deeper than we expected.
Next stop: Budapest.Læs mere
Day 9
25. maj 2025, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
We managed to sleep in until 6 a.m. today, which—given our track record lately—felt like a small victory. The sun was already up, and we grabbed our first coffee at Consonni Szpitalna, perfectly positioned to admire the grand Juliusz Słowacki Theatre. This Baroque beauty, completed in 1893 and modelled after the Paris Opera, remains one of Kraków’s most ornate landmarks. Although the morning air was still cold, the sunshine quickly turned intense, and we had to move inside before the outdoor seating became uncomfortably warm.
From there, it was a short walk to St. Florian’s Gate, one of the city’s original medieval entrances. Built in the 14th century, it marked the start of the Royal Road—the ceremonial path once used by kings and dignitaries. The fortified gateway, with its vaulted ceiling, stands opposite a stretch of the original city wall, now used as an open-air art gallery. We returned in the evening to find it transformed—bright canvases lining the ancient stones, turning the whole scene into a striking blend of past and present.
Knowing we’d be visiting the Wieliczka Salt Mine tomorrow, we picked up a 48-hour public transport pass using the same app we used in Warsaw. It came in handy straight away as we made our way to Wawel Castle. The setting alone made the trip worthwhile. Perched above the Vistula River, Wawel’s architecture is a patchwork of Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles—a testament to Poland’s long and turbulent royal history.
Next stop: Oskar Schindler’s Enamel Factory. We were hoping to visit the museum, but all the tickets were sold out for today and tomorrow—a bit of a letdown. Still, even standing outside was moving. One of the most striking features was the wall of black-and-white portraits displayed across the windows—images of Jewish men and women saved by Schindler during the Holocaust, many of whom worked at this very factory. Even without stepping inside, the sight of those faces—each a life narrowly spared—was deeply affecting.
Determined to honour Kraków’s wartime history, we continued on to Ghetto Heroes Square, where oversized bronze chairs are arranged across the plaza. Each one represents the thousands of Jews who were deported from the Kraków Ghetto during WWII. Just around the corner, hidden among residential buildings, we found a surviving fragment of the ghetto wall. Crumbling and cracked, it now bears a small plaque, quietly commemorating what once stood there. It’s easy to overlook if you’re not paying attention, but once you see it, it stays with you.
Our mood lightened again when we reached the neo-Gothic marvel of St. Joseph’s Church in the Podgórze district. Its towering green spire and white-trimmed red brick façade made it one of the most photogenic buildings we’ve seen so far. Behind the church, the gardens were even more impressive—lush, tiered, and dotted with contemplative bronze sculptures. It felt like stepping into a peaceful open-air museum.
We crossed the Vistula via the Father Bernatek Footbridge, a modern pedestrian bridge known for its wire acrobats suspended mid-air. It links Podgórze with Kazimierz and offers a great vantage point over the river.
We explored Kazimierz, Kraków’s historic Jewish quarter, which had a rougher edge than expected—some areas felt run-down and heavily graffitied. Still, it added a gritty kind of authenticity to the day, reminding us that cities like Kraków carry layers of past and present in every street.
Ted was keen to experience a traditional milk bar, and Bar Mleczny “Pod Temidą” didn’t disappoint. These no-frills, Communist-era canteens offer hearty Polish comfort food at budget prices. We ordered pork cutlets with mashed potato and cabbage, gołąbki (cabbage rolls with mushroom sauce), and placki ziemniaczane—crispy potato pancakes with buttery sautéed mushrooms. Simple, satisfying, and well-earned.
The weather held up beautifully all day, so we strolled along the Vistula afterwards. The riverside was buzzing with life—cyclists, sunbathers, and kids clambering over the Wawel Dragon statue, which famously breathes fire every hour (though we managed to miss it).
After a break back at the apartment, we wandered out again for a drink at Café Lindo. Despite its charming look, it was a bit of a flop—rude service, no crowd, and warm beer. Not exactly one for the return list.
We finished the day back in the Old Town, where I finally gave in to temptation and tried a chimney cake rolled in cocoa. Hot, sweet, crispy on the outside and soft inside—it was so indulgent it ended up being my dinner. The sunset bathed the square in gold, rounding off what felt like a full, reflective, and surprising day.Læs mere
Day 8
24. maj 2025, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Even though we had a late night… we were still awake at 6:30 a.m.! At this point, I don’t think it’s jet lag anymore—it’s probably the extra-long daylight hours, and me waking up each morning already thinking about everything we want to do.
We were both feeling a little dusty, so after breakfast we wandered down to Zywioły Café, a more polished pedestrian area, for coffee and croissants. I’d noticed our train tickets didn’t include seat allocations, so we stopped by the main station. After a short, mildly confusing conversation in broken English, we were reassured it wasn’t a big deal.
Back at the apartment, we packed up and cleaned before heading out again. With about an hour to spare, we grabbed lunch at McDonald’s (not our finest moment)—though I went for a salad and veggie roll. Even with rocket (which I still can’t stand), it felt like a decent choice after a solid week of hearty eating.
A quick reminder of how different things are here: the station bathrooms required a small payment—something you rarely see back home. Our platform was easy to find, the train arrived with time to spare, and when I asked the conductor about seats, she told us to sit anywhere. The carriage was about 80% empty, so that worked out just fine.
Even in second class, the seats were roomy, with tray tables, luggage racks, and big windows looking out over the Polish countryside. The 2.5-hour ride was smooth and direct, and the stretch from Warsaw to Kraków gave us time to appreciate just how green and wide-open much of the country still is.
Google Maps told us our accommodation was a 15-minute walk from the station—it turned out to be five. The apartment itself is compact but cleverly designed. Smaller than the one in Warsaw, but clean, modern, and functional. The bed is tucked into a timber loft above the kitchen, reachable via a small staircase. Once you’re up there, you’ve got to crouch or crawl—it’s not tall enough to stand—but it’s cosy and kind of fun.
I tried to get a nap in, but the people upstairs were stomping around too much for that to happen. So, we gave up on resting and headed into town. Kraków feels more compact and relaxed than Warsaw. Ted admitted he’d pictured Poland as a bit bleak—like something out of the ’80s—but this place changed his mind fast.
We headed straight to the Main Market Square, which was packed (hardly a surprise for a Saturday). At 40,000 square metres, it’s the largest medieval square in Europe—framed by elegant townhouses and buzzing with activity. It’s been the heart of Kraków since the 13th century, and you can feel that history underfoot.
We ducked into the Cloth Hall (Sukiennice), which dates back to the Renaissance and was once a major international trading post. These days it’s full of amber jewellery, folk art, and fridge magnets—but it still has charm, especially under the vaulted ceilings and wrought-iron lamps.
Outside, St. Mary’s Basilica towers over the square. One of the spires is currently under scaffolding, but it’s still impressive. Every hour, a trumpeter plays a short melody from the higher tower—a tradition that’s been going strong since the 14th century. Legend says it honours a city guard who was shot mid-note while sounding the alarm during a Mongol invasion.
Nearby, we spotted the enormous bronze head lying sideways in the square—Eros Bendato (Eros Bound), a sculpture by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj. It looks both ancient and modern at once—and, strangely enough, it’s become one of the most popular meeting points in town.
We browsed the many food stalls lining the square, offering everything from grilled cheese and sausages to towering pork knuckles. Ted finally gave in to temptation and went for the latter—it wasn’t cheap (thanks, tourist prices), but he loved every bite.
By late afternoon, I was starting to crash, so we grabbed some groceries and headed back. I managed a solid two-hour nap before we got changed and went out again for dinner. Neither of us was hungry for anything too heavy, so we settled on a warming bowl of soup and fresh bread at Drevny Kocur. Simple, satisfying, and perfect for a cool spring evening in Kraków.
At night, the square was far less crowded. There were still food stalls open and plenty of people out, though the vibe had mellowed. One slightly less charming aspect? A few hawkers trying to pull tourists into casinos or strip clubs—not quite our thing.
We considered a nightcap at Lindo Bar but decided to save it for another day. With three nights here and plenty of sights still to explore, we’ve got time to soak it all in.Læs mere
Day 7
23. maj 2025, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
We were up early again—5:30 a.m.—which gave us a solid head start. The morning air was noticeably colder, so after a proper coffee from Etna Café just near the apartment, we mapped out the day and got moving.
Our first stop was Łazienki Park, one of the city’s most beautiful public spaces. Commissioned by King Stanisław August in the 18th century, the park blends manicured gardens, classical architecture, and open woodland in a way that feels more royal estate than urban park.
The standout was the Palace on the Isle, perched right on the water and perfectly mirrored in the lake’s surface. We also explored the elegant New Orangery, with its landscaped forecourt guarded by stone lions, and wandered along paths lined with marble statues of mythological figures. Even without sunshine, the setting was impressive—lush, expansive, and carefully curated. A few shots from the amphitheatre and gardens might end up being some of our best from Warsaw.
From there, things got a little chaotic. Determined to track down the remnants of the Warsaw Ghetto, we pieced together a plan involving a bus, a tram, and the metro… and got absolutely nowhere. Frustrated and empty-handed, we detoured to the Palace of Culture and Science, but with school groups swarming in, we decided to come back later.
Back in the city centre, Ted picked up a T-shirt for me at H&M—one of those unexpected holiday finds that’ll probably stick with me long after the trip. We eventually made it to Old Town for lunch at a small restaurant called Gościniec. I went for placki ziemniaczane (crispy potato pancakes with sour cream), while Ted had gulasz wieprzowy—a rich pork stew, slow-cooked with paprika and onion.
We considered heading back for a rest, but when we noticed a direct bus to Wilanów Palace, we decided to press on. Despite a few lingering school groups, Wilanów turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. The palace is grand and vibrant, surrounded by some of the finest formal gardens we’ve seen anywhere. Built in the late 1600s for King Jan III Sobieski, it somehow escaped the wartime destruction that levelled much of Warsaw. Its French-style gardens, sculpted hedges, and decorative statuary gave it a distinctly Versailles feel—only quieter, more relaxed, and arguably more charming. Honestly, it made Berlin’s Charlottenburg Palace look a little modest by comparison.
We’d bought tickets to see the interior, and while the exterior had already wowed us, the rooms inside took things up another level. Unlike many European palaces that can feel overly staged or repetitive, this one felt lived-in and layered with character.
Each room was colour-themed and distinctive—the Yellow Room gleamed with gilded stucco and ornate ceiling mouldings, while the King’s Library was lined with leather-bound volumes in Polish and Latin. Much of the original furniture has either survived or been beautifully restored, and you could still see parquet floors, decorative plasterwork, and period wall coverings that felt authentic rather than overly polished.
A more sobering aspect came from small signs describing the looting and destruction during the Nazi occupation. Many priceless artworks were stolen; while a few have been recovered, many remain missing to this day. It added a poignant layer to what was otherwise a majestic, richly preserved window into Poland’s royal heritage.
The trip back wasn’t smooth. My phone died, we missed our stop, and ended up stuck on a slow loop through the suburbs. Eventually, we found a tram line and made it back to the apartment for a well-earned break.
Later that evening, we made a second—and this time successful—attempt to visit the Warsaw Ghetto Memorial. Tucked into a quiet street corner, it includes a bronze map marking the former ghetto boundaries and a plaque honouring those who lived and died within its walls. Between 1940 and 1943, over 400,000 Jews were forced into this walled area under horrific conditions. Most were eventually deported to extermination camps. Standing there, reading the words, was sobering—but important.
From there, we wandered into a nearby park and were completely caught off guard by how peaceful and beautiful it was. It turned out to be Krasiński Garden, which wraps around the equally impressive Krasiński Palace. The formal flowerbeds, fountains, and long walkways created a calm and elegant atmosphere. Even better, it was full of locals walking their dogs—big dogs, small dogs, all of them joyful—which gave the space a warm, lived-in feel that balanced out the weight of everything we’d seen that day.
We finished with a laid-back dinner at a nearby Mexican restaurant, followed by a drink at Lodi Dodi, a chilled-out bar close to home. We made it back around midnight—legs sore, batteries drained, and minds full.
Today was about contrasts—palaces and playgrounds, history and everyday life, grandeur and grit. Warsaw’s story is layered, but it’s that complexity that makes it such a rewarding city to experience.Læs mere
Day 6
22. maj 2025, Polen ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C
It feels like we’re extending our sleep-in time by an hour each day—we made it to 6:30 a.m. today! We hadn’t booked hotel breakfast, figuring we’d just grab something at Berlin Hauptbahnhof before our train to Warsaw. The station was its usual whirlwind of travellers, but a quick coffee and croissant seemed easier (and cheaper) than hunting down a sit-down café.
Our train pulled in on time, though naturally, our carriage was the furthest one from where we were standing. After a bit of a jog, we made it—and ended up scoring an entire six-seat compartment to ourselves for the five-hour journey. A comfortable way to cross another border.
The carriage attendants were all Polish (we were now on a PKP Intercity train), and when one asked if we wanted coffee, I fumbled to ask if they had oat milk—unsuccessfully. Only later did I realise I could’ve just used Google Translate. When the bill arrived, I had a brief moment of panic: 26.50 for two coffees?! Then I remembered—Polish złoty, not euros.
Later, the same attendant returned with complimentary water, juice, and chocolate bars—unexpected and appreciated. Despite a slight delay, the ride was smooth and far better than some of our rail experiences in Vietnam or the U.S.
We checked out the dining car, which turned out to be a nice surprise. WARS, Poland’s long-running railway catering service, has been serving meals since the 1940s, and the quality has definitely held up. Ted went for a classic combo of eggs, bacon, and Polish sausage, while I opted for pierogi ruskie—traditional dumplings filled with potato and cheese, topped with fried onions, and easily one of the country’s best-loved comfort foods.
There was even zupa szczawiowa (sorrel soup) on the menu—a tangy, spinach-like soup made with sorrel leaves and usually served with egg and potato. I was tempted… until I read the ingredients and wasn’t quite ready to be that adventurous.
We rolled into Warsaw about thirty minutes late due to technical issues. The crew kept us informed and were apologetic, which made a difference. Warsaw Central Station was calmer than Berlin’s sprawling chaos, and we were soon outside.
Despite the rain, our first sight of Warsaw was the massive Palace of Culture and Science. Built in the 1950s as a “gift” from Stalin, it’s part Soviet skyscraper, part symbol of Warsaw’s ability to reframe its past. Some see it as a symbol of Communist oppression, others as an iconic part of the skyline. Either way, it’s impossible to miss—at 237 metres, it’s still the tallest building in Poland.
The walk to our apartment took about ten minutes, with a minor delay caused by my confusing the first floor with the third. But it was worth it—the apartment is spacious, modern, and a definite step up from our compact hotel room in Berlin.
After unpacking, we headed to a local supermarket to stock up. I’ve been to Warsaw before, but for Ted this was a first. His initial impression? Bigger, grander, and more elegant than expected.
By late afternoon, with the weather still grey and wet, we decided to explore Warsaw’s Old Town—a part of the city known to be charming in any conditions. The area was almost entirely destroyed during World War II, but painstakingly rebuilt using old paintings and architectural records. Today, it’s UNESCO-listed for exactly that reason.
We bought a 24-hour transport pass through the Jakdojade app, which made navigating the tram system easy. Even in fading light, Old Town was stunning. The cobbled streets, colourful buildings, and detailed facades felt like a step back in time. We stopped at the Royal Castle, once home to Polish monarchs, and admired Sigismund’s Column—erected in 1644 to honour the king who moved the capital from Kraków to Warsaw.
Nearby, we saw the statue of Jan Zachwatowicz, the man behind the city’s extraordinary post-war reconstruction efforts. Thanks to him, much of what we see today is a faithful recreation of what once stood.
On the way back, we accidentally got off the tram one stop early—which turned out to be a stroke of luck. The Palace of Culture and Science was glowing in the evening light, and we got the perfect nighttime photo.
Tomorrow’s forecast looks overcast but dry. With one full day left in Warsaw, we’re hoping to see as much as we can—between palaces, parks, and maybe a bit more pierogi.Læs mere
Day 5
21. maj 2025, Tyskland ⋅ 🌬 21 °C
Jet lag is finally loosening its grip—we managed to sleep through to 5:30 a.m. today, just in time for the 6:00 a.m. breakfast downstairs. Judging by the number of early risers in the dining room, we’re guessing our hotel also caters to a crowd of business travellers (or fellow jet-lagged tourists).
Before leaving for Europe, I’d sketched out a detailed list of landmarks and neighbourhoods we didn’t want to miss. After a few days of trekking across Berlin, we decided to slow the pace slightly and check out a few final highlights. Berlin is a city of extremes—gritty and grand, sharp-edged and soft—and today’s destinations captured that contrast perfectly: the bold colour and raw emotion of the East Side Gallery, followed by the chandeliers and cherubs of Charlottenburg Palace.
We began our morning at the East Side Gallery, a 1.3-kilometre open-air art exhibition painted on the longest surviving stretch of the Berlin Wall. After the Wall fell in 1989, artists from around the world came to Berlin and transformed this once-feared border into a living canvas of peace, protest, satire, and remembrance. Today, it features over 100 murals and stands as both a vibrant creative space and a solemn historical monument.
It’s hard to believe this slab of concrete once split the city—and families—in two. We took our time walking along the wall, admiring both the iconic pieces and the lesser-known works. We stopped at the famous Fraternal Kiss mural of Brezhnev and Honecker, which somehow remains both hilarious and unsettling. Further along, the wall explodes with symbolism—stick figures dancing, doves breaking chains, cosmic visions. Some works call for peace or environmental action; others are simply playful, abstract, or defiant. It’s a vivid reminder of how art can transform even the bleakest structure into something deeply human.
We passed the Oberbaum Bridge on our way out—a neo-Gothic icon that connects Friedrichshain and Kreuzberg across the Spree. Sadly, heavy traffic and a coat of less-than-artistic graffiti meant we didn’t get a great photo, but even through the chaos, its red-brick arches and towers offered a glimpse of old Berlin charm. Maybe next time, at a quieter hour.
From there, we navigated Berlin’s (surprisingly manageable) public transport system and made our way west to Charlottenburg Palace. It took a bit of figuring out, but we made it—and I was pleasantly surprised by how many German words I could still read from childhood. Speaking them is another matter entirely, but I’ll take the small wins.
Our visit began with a bit of drama: a tourist having a very vocal disagreement with an older German man who wanted her to move so his wife could take a photo—from what looked like a full ten metres away. Nothing like a heated photo dispute to remind you you’re in Europe.
Charlottenburg Palace, built in the late 1600s for Queen Sophie Charlotte, is the kind of place that takes opulence to another level. Gilded cornices, frescoed ceilings, embroidered walls—it’s all very “if Versailles had a younger cousin.” One ballroom in pastel tones was absolutely stunning, filled with cherubs, chandeliers, and enough decorative flourishes to make your head spin. Another room, in rich reds and golds, felt like it could host a royal meeting—or a very fancy board game night.
It’s hard to imagine living in such grandeur without feeling like you were trapped inside a frosted wedding cake. Unlike some European palaces that feel cold or roped-off, Charlottenburg was elegant but approachable. It may not have the imperial scale of Versailles or the grandeur of Schönbrunn, but we loved wandering through its rooms and peaceful gardens.
Afterwards, we caught a direct train back to Berlin Hauptbahnhof, picked up some lunch from the station, and returned to our hotel nearby for a break before an evening with family. First, we visited Simone, my cousin on Dad’s side, who’s been living and working in Berlin as an opera singer for the last ten years. We caught the tram to her place and had tea and cake in her cosy apartment with her kids, Clara and David. It was relaxed and a great way to start the evening.
Later, we took the train to Friedrichstraße to meet my mum’s side of the family—Sandy and Roman, along with Sandy’s husband Martin. To be precise, Sandy and Roman are the children of my mother’s cousin—so technically my second cousins, but either way, family is family. Roman had kindly booked us a table at Hans im Glück, a well-known burger chain named after a Grimm fairy tale about a man who trades away everything he owns in search of happiness. Thankfully, no one had to part with their wallet or phone for a side of chips.
Even though I saw Sandy and Roman just last year, it’s always a joy catching up—and it was especially meaningful that Ted could join too. It was his first time meeting Roman, and his first time seeing Sandy and Martin in over 18 years. He also hadn’t seen Simone since her wedding in Australia, so it felt like a mini reunion on all fronts.
Plenty of laughs, a few beers, and suddenly it was after 10 p.m. Tomorrow, we leave Berlin behind and cross the border into Poland. But for now, we’re grateful for a day filled with murals, monarchs, and familiar faces—and for a city that somehow makes it all feel perfectly natural.Læs mere
RejsendeStunning Andrew. So good to read your commentary as it took me back to all the places you mentioned.
RejsendeI also loved Charlottenburg Palace and that pastel blue room was beautiful but the room that I was most interested in was the room with all the blue and white porcelain pieces. I couldn’t believe it and the history of that room and other parts of the palace that had to be rebuilt after the war was very interesting. From memory they are still restoring parts of the place today. I’d love to see some photos of the gardens as they were covered in snow when I was there.
Day 4
20. maj 2025, Tyskland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
As hard as I tried, I still ended up crashing at 8 p.m. last night—which, of course, meant I was wide awake by 4:30 this morning. We both knew we’d be slightly out of sync thanks to the time zones, but at least breakfast here started at 6 a.m., so we could start the day early (and well fed).
When we checked in yesterday, we’d planned to find a better breakfast spot nearby, but in the end, we went with the stress-free option and ate at the hotel. Turned out to be a good call—it was a solid spread and very typically German: plenty of bread, cucumbers, tomatoes, cheese, and cold cuts. What stood out, though, was the dining room crowd. It was almost entirely men… 🤔
We set out to explore Berlin on foot, aiming to cover as many of the city’s iconic sights as possible in a single, sunny day. With clear blue skies and a light breeze, the weather couldn’t have been better—and thanks to our early start, most places were still fairly quiet. We had a brief moment of confusion at Hauptbahnhof—Berlin’s central station is a maze of S-Bahn, U-Bahn, and regional trains—but we figured it out eventually and got moving.
Our first stop was the Reichstag, home of the German Bundestag. One of Berlin’s most recognisable buildings, it mixes classical architecture with modern symbolism. Originally completed in 1894, it was badly damaged in WWII and stood unused during the Cold War. After reunification, it was completely restored and topped with a striking glass dome—meant to represent government transparency. Even from the outside, it’s a powerful and elegant structure.
Just a short walk away is the Brandenburg Gate. We arrived while it was still quiet, which gave us time to take it in properly. Built in the late 1700s, it’s witnessed everything from Napoleon’s march to Nazi rallies, Cold War tension, and now tourists and bike tours. During the Berlin Wall era, this area was part of the so-called “death strip,” where many lost their lives trying to cross into the West. It’s surreal to stand there now, surrounded by people posing for photos.
Next was the Holocaust Memorial—formally the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. More than 2,700 concrete slabs arranged in a sloping grid create a disorienting, silent space. Walking among them is sobering. There are no plaques or signs above ground—no names, no dates—just silence. That lack of explanation somehow makes it even more impactful.
Around the corner we found the Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom), the city’s most impressive church. Built in 1905, it blends Renaissance and Baroque styles, with distinctive green domes towering over the city. The exterior alone—especially in the morning sun—was enough to appreciate its scale and detail.
Nearby, we stopped by the Alte Nationalgalerie, one of my favourite buildings in Berlin. Sitting on a high pedestal on Museum Island, it feels like something straight out of Vienna or Paris. The neoclassical architecture, framed by manicured gardens, gave the whole area a surprising sense of calm.
We then headed to Alexanderplatz to check out the TV Tower (Fernsehturm). Built in the 1960s by East Germany’s socialist regime to flaunt their technological progress (and allegedly spy on the West), it’s now a slightly kitschy but unmistakable part of Berlin’s skyline. At 368 metres, it’s visible from almost anywhere. The view from below, set against a cloudless sky, was more than enough.
From East Germany’s towering pride to its everyday reality: our next stop was the DDR Museum—and it turned out to be a highlight. Unlike most museums, this one encourages you to interact with everything.
You could flip through magazines in a recreated 1980s living room, open drawers full of GDR propaganda, and even sit in a Trabant (the East’s famously fragile car), which felt more like a plastic toy than a vehicle. The museum covered everything from surveillance and rationing to school life and fashion. What made it so compelling was how ordinary—and occasionally endearing—some of it was. It wasn’t just about control; it was about the lives people lived within that system. It made me think of my cousins who grew up in East Germany.
By this point, we were starving. We caught the U-Bahn to Schöneberg for lunch at Pitaya, a casual Thai fusion spot that hit the spot. After hours of walking and museum-hopping, it was good to just sit and recharge.
On the way back, we made a quick stop at Checkpoint Charlie—the Cold War’s most iconic border crossing. Yes, it’s touristy now (complete with souvenir stands and actors in uniform), but the original “You are leaving the American sector” sign still packs a punch. A stark reminder of just how recent all this history really is.
After such a full-on day—and my early start—we returned to the hotel for a bit of downtime. Later, we caught a tram to Prenzlauer Berg, a neighbourhood Ted had read about. And he was right—it was leafy, laid-back, and full of charm. Quiet streets, old buildings, and cosy cafés made it feel like the Berlin locals love best.
We ended up at Zweistrom Falafel, a small Turkish eatery serving up incredible food in a relaxed, no-frills setting. The kind of place that makes you wish you were a regular.
Still not quite ready to call it a night, we wandered over to The Tipsy Bear for a drink. It wasn’t busy (school night, after all), but it was exactly what we needed to wind down.
Tomorrow’s another full day in Berlin—and if it’s half as good as today, we’ll be in for a treat.Læs mere
Day 3
19. maj 2025, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
Today was certainly interesting, to say the least! We arrived in Helsinki early after our overnight flight from Singapore, and even before the doors opened, there was a PA announcement warning unsuspecting passengers about the situation awaiting them at Helsinki Airport. Ted and I were the first passengers off the plane and made a beeline for baggage claim.
As it turned out, we were told our bags would be offloaded—but that it could take a while. They weren’t kidding. We ended up standing in the baggage hall for well over an hour. Still, we consoled ourselves with the fact that at least we’d be getting them today, not tomorrow.
While we waited, we weighed up our options for getting to Berlin. Seats were limited, so I suggested flying to Hamburg and catching a train from there. Ted thought it would be better to just buy full-fare tickets directly to Berlin, since the price difference wasn’t that significant. I initially baulked at the cost—until I realised it was much of a muchness either way.
Relief quickly turned to panic when we realised Ted had accidentally booked the flights for the 19th of June, not May. Given how strict many airlines are about cancellations, we assumed we’d just kissed that money goodbye. We had an anxious wait before we could speak with someone at Finnair—but their staff couldn’t help either, since the booking was too far in the future to show in their system yet.
I jumped on Finnair’s live chat, bracing for bad news. To my surprise—and immense relief—because the booking was for several weeks ahead and had been made within the last hour, we were eligible for a full refund. Phew!
After all that excitement, we headed to Starbucks to regroup and enjoy a surprisingly decent coffee. Hamburg now looked like the best option, so we bought staff travel tickets and were upgraded straight away. After clearing security, we weren’t sure if we were eligible for the Finnair lounge—but we were, and it turned out to be a very comfortable place to wait.
The flight to Hamburg was about two hours, although due to the industrial action, catering was minimal. Once we’d collected our luggage, we dashed to the S-Bahn to buy train tickets to Berlin. Unfortunately, neither of us could figure out the ticket machine. We asked one of the station staff for help, and he pointed us toward a better option: instead of paying €96 each for the train, we could catch a Flixbus for just €17. It would take a little longer—but that sounded like a bargain to us.
We bought single tickets to Hamburg Hauptbahnhof and easily found the bus station nearby. We even had time to grab some cheese pastries and water for the three-hour ride.
Now, Flixbus isn’t exactly glamorous—especially after our recent Business Class streak. The seats were tight, the drivers looked thoroughly unimpressed with life, and the tray tables could barely hold a bottle of water. But at that price and level of efficiency, who’s complaining?
Once we arrived in Berlin, we took an Uber to our hotel, which is perfectly located near the Hauptbahnhof (Central Station)—ideal for both sightseeing and our upcoming journey to Poland. We had a quick look around the station and picked up a few groceries, as we were both keen for some fresh food rather than another restaurant meal.
I think it’ll be an early night tonight—I’m barely staying awake. Considering we’ve been in three countries in the last 24 hours, I’d say that’s fair. There’ll be plenty of time for late nights later in the trip! 😊Læs mere
Day 2
18. maj 2025, Finland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
After yesterday’s long day, we both slept well—even though the hotel’s walls were basically paper-thin. After getting dressed, we headed down for the included buffet breakfast. It was pretty mediocre, but that didn’t stop us from eating enough to get our previously mentioned money’s worth.
I realised I’d forgotten to pack white socks (quelle horreur!), so Ted kindly lent me a pair while we went for a walk to explore the local area. Since we’d already seen plenty of Singapore on our last visit, neither of us felt like heading into the city. Instead, we walked down to the local marina and boardwalk, as well as the nearby beach. By 9 a.m., the heat was already stifling, so I bought some new socks and we headed back to the hotel.
We were both keen to relax in the rooftop pool, which was a great temperature and offered views of the nearby airport as we floated around and unwound. Ted thought it would be a good idea to explore Jewel at Changi Airport, so he arranged a pickup through Klook. It was mildly amusing to see that our driver’s surname was Bin Laden—nothing like a little excitement to start the afternoon.
The first thing we saw at Jewel was the Rain Vortex waterfall. We managed to squeeze in for the 10 a.m. show alongside what felt like a thousand other tourists. It looked nice, but after five minutes we were ready to move on.
Since we were already at the airport, I suggested visiting Canopy Park, which includes access to the Mirror Maze, Canopy Bridge, Hedge Maze, and Walking Net. The Mirror Maze and Canopy Park were both quite fun, but the rest were underwhelming. Still, not a bad way to pass the time.
We caught the airport shuttle back to the hotel—though for a moment, I thought I might be stuck there for good. Neither Ted, the driver, nor I could get my seatbelt to release. After much wrangling (and a moment of panic), it finally let me go.
To cleverly avoid needing lunch, we tried the “light snacks” on offer at the hotel. Sadly, the name was not misleading—it consisted of peanuts, crisps, and crab-flavoured crackers. Not even a beer in sight.
Later, we braved the heat again and walked to a nearby cluster of restaurants. One was air-conditioned and clearly aimed at tourists, but we opted for Le Xuan Dim Sum instead—it was cheaper and felt more authentic. Vegetarian options were limited, but still a step up from the Club’s snack menu.
After lunch, the rest of the afternoon was mostly about killing time. Even with late check-out, it felt like a whole lot of waiting. After showering, packing, and checking out, the hotel kindly let us stay in the Club Lounge until our 5 p.m. airport transfer.
The transfer bus was chaotic. A whole crowd of guests all tried to board at once, racing for the limited seats. We’d noticed online that the Business Class seats on Lufthansa and Swiss Air had mysteriously vanished, so we got off at the first terminal to ask at the counters. Sure enough, all the seats up front were gone—and both flights were weight-restricted too.
We spotted an option with Finnair and trudged over to Terminal 1. We should’ve taken the internal train—we tried to shortcut through Jewel again, but the place was heaving with people.
The mystery of the vanishing seats was solved at the Finnair counter: due to industrial action, most flights out of Helsinki had been cancelled. We could still get to Helsinki, but the onward flight to Berlin was less certain. Still, with Lufthansa and Swiss fully booked and unlikely to upgrade us, Finnair seemed like the best gamble. At least we’d be moving.
So we trudged back to the Lufthansa desk to be removed from that booking and begin the refund process. The Finnair check-in counter wasn’t open yet, and by this point, we were starving. Burger King it was—cheap and queue-free.
Fortunately, the detour paid off: when we returned to the Finnair counter, our Business Class boarding passes were issued immediately. The flight was lightly booked—turns out most other carriers were helping absorb Finnair’s stranded passengers, and our flight was only 40% full.
At the gate, we found barely anyone in the lounge. Once we boarded, we settled into our seats—though Finnair’s Business Class layout might be the most confusing I’ve ever experienced. You actually need to watch a how-to video just to figure out the seat. Storage was limited, the sash-style seatbelt crossed right at the neck, and the earplugs were so tiny I skipped them out of fear they’d vanish into my ear canal.
Still, it’s Business Class—I’m not complaining.
Dinner came quickly (and was thankfully much nicer than Burger King), and by 10:30 p.m. Singapore time, we tried to get some sleep. Easier said than done. The awkward seat design made me feel like a human question mark. I eventually moved to an empty window seat with a slightly better layout and managed a few hours of uncomfortable sleep.
About four and a half hours before landing, I gave up on sleep, brushed my teeth, and went to say hi to the crew. That’s when they dropped the final bombshell: due to the strike in Helsinki, no passenger bags would be unloaded. So we wouldn’t be seeing our luggage until the next day.
Also, that “40% full” figure? Misleading. There were only 40 passengers in total.
I broke the news to Ted when he woke up, and we started working on a Plan B for when we landed. I tried not to dwell on it too much, so I watched the in-flight movie Argo—fitting, since the passengers in that film had their own run-in with Swiss Air too.
We’re about to land—fingers crossed it all works out from here.Læs mere
Day 1
17. maj 2025, Singapore ⋅ 🌩️ 32 °C
The day started far too early—4:10 a.m.—as we did our final checks before heading out. Snoopy was already at day care and our bags were packed, so all that was left was to get dressed, make ourselves presentable, and wait for our Uber driver. Unfortunately, I had everything timed to the minute—so when the driver turned up six minutes early, it threw my schedule into chaos. 😄
Our first flight was to Melbourne, where we’d connect with our onward flight to Singapore. We grabbed a morning coffee at Muffin Break, and our friend Aani was kind enough to give them to us for free to celebrate the start of our holiday. We were also very lucky to be upgraded to Business Class, and the cabin manager—whom I recognised straight away—kindly gave us some champagne to toast the beginning of the trip. It wasn’t exactly wine time, but when you’re going on holiday, who’s keeping track?
The flight to Melbourne was quick and pleasant. We’d chosen the first flight of the day to avoid any risk of missing our international connection, which meant a four-hour layover—but that wasn’t a problem. We had another coffee while waiting for the Jetstar bag drop to open. That’s when things took a turn—all the baggage belts broke down at once. After fifteen minutes of staff trying to reset the system (and a growing queue of grumpy passengers behind us), we were finally free of our bag!
Having booked full-fare Jetstar Business Class tickets, we were able to enjoy the Qantas lounge before our flight. It was busy and crowded, but still a welcome escape from the airport hustle. After breakfast on the first flight, neither of us was particularly hungry, but it was nice to relax in peace. The lounge itself was quite different from the ones in Sydney or Adelaide—being underground, it didn’t have any windows or natural light.
We headed to the gate early to give ourselves plenty of time to board. The Business Class seats were comfortable, with a 2-3-2 layout. I was in the middle seat, but it was still manageable when nature called. We departed slightly behind schedule, but once in the air, the crew served a solid lunch: ravioli for my vegetarian self and lamb for Ted the carnivore. I hadn’t planned to watch any in-flight movies, but after Speak No Evil, I needed something lighter—so I followed it up with Wicked. To my surprise, there was a second meal service later. Ted had the quesadilla, and I had the vegetarian pie, which was so good I accepted a second without hesitation.
Arrival in Singapore was smooth. Passport control is now fully electronic, and even our checked bag came out quickly. We’d planned to take the free shuttle bus to the hotel, but since we landed over half an hour late—and the shuttle only runs every 90 minutes—we’d missed our window. Luckily, taxis weren’t too expensive, and we’d chosen a hotel nearby.
Our flight to Germany isn’t until around 11 p.m. tomorrow night, so the hotel offered us a club rate that included late check-out, buffet breakfast, light snacks, and evening cocktails. The hotel was already on the pricey side, so I wasn’t thrilled about the extra cost—but we didn’t really have a better option.
After exploring the hotel, including the rooftop pool and gym, we figured we should make the most of the Club access—so we went for evening cocktails. It was mostly light food and complimentary drinks, but after our in-flight meals, that was all we needed. As tempting as it was to stay up, we’re still on Adelaide time, so a 9 p.m. bedtime sounded pretty perfect 😊.Læs mere
Day 26
21. juni 2024, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C
After managing to get some good sleep, I wasted time watching the film “Everything, Everywhere, All At Once” before having breakfast and landing into Melbourne. It was still very early so, after a quick immigration and baggage collection process, I walked to the domestic terminal and checked my bag in for the flight home to Adelaide. I will certainly be happy to offload this broken bag once I get home!
Since I wasn’t in the mood for sitting in a noisy airport terminal, I instead went to the Melbourne crew room which was completely empty when I arrived. After speaking to some crew during the morning, I headed to my Adelaide flight and was very surprised that I got business class yet again! There were so few seats available, I thought my run of luck had finished.
Upon arrival in Adelaide, I stopped to collect some things from the crew room and spoke to some colleagues before catching an Uber home. Now I just have a mountain of unpacking and clothes washing ahead of me!
Ah, the end of another trip. So extremely grateful for all the wonderful places we saw, people we met and experiences we had.Læs mere
Day 25
20. juni 2024, Australien ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C
Paying extra for Premium Economy certainly pays off, as I managed to get at least five hours sleep during the flight. Whilst having a breakfast of scrambled eggs and toast, I watched the movie Parasite, which I only found mediocre. Before I knew it, we had arrived in Hong Kong!
After a pretty quick disembarkation, I was hoping the whole immigration and bag collection process wouldn’t take too long, as I only had 45 minutes to catch an 8:30am transfer bus to my hotel (or wait another hour for the next one). Luckily it didn’t, but the only problem was dragging my broken bag all the way through Terminal 1 to the pick up area!
I managed to get onto the bus with ten minutes to spare, which was easier said than done as the pick up area was outside the airport, and the Hong Kong heat was oppressive. The bus was air conditioned though and I ended up being the only passenger for the quick ten minute drive to the hotel.
The hotel was amazing! After taking the elevator to reception, they kindly gave me my room early (it wasn’t meant to be ready until 10am). The room is beautiful, modern and quiet. I considered sleeping or showering, but instead decided to get changed and buy some food and water first.
The hotel was directly above a huge shopping centre but since it was still early, I wandered around it before finding a cheap restaurant named Law Mark Kee which offered a $HK36 (about $7) breakfast of porridge, scrambled eggs on toast, and coffee. It was definitely a deal I couldn’t refuse, although it did feel interesting being the only Westerner in the restaurant!
After getting some water and a sandwich from a 7-11, I went back to the room for an amazing shower and nap. I’d set my alarm for 3pm although doubted I would need that much sleep. It turns out I was wrong as I kept sleeping until a few minutes before the alarm sounded. I then packed up my bag, ironed a shirt and went downstairs to check out. I would definitely stay at this hotel again in similar circumstances. The airport transfer left at 4pm, so I waited downstairs until being taken to the airport.
Fortunately we were dropped outside the terminal instead of being taken to the car park area. The airport terminal though was still hot, as the heat and humidity made it uncomfortable. One good thing is that I received a boarding pass for Premium Economy straightaway, so I had to wait to see if I would receive an upgrade at the boarding gate.
After paying $AUD11 for an iced coffee to cool down, I went through security and straight to the boarding gate until the flight boarding time started. Since the staff at the boarding gate were unable to tell me if I’d received an upgrade yet, I waited in the Premium Economy queue until boarding commenced. When I scanned my pass, the machine beeped and advised me to speak to the boarding desk. The agent took my pass, checked her computer and advised me….
…I’d been upgraded to Business Class! Woohoo! I did a little happy dance before making my way down the separate boarding entrance. I had my own pod in 22K which is beautiful and better than the current Qantas product. Of course I couldn’t resist taking photos and a video, as well as posting my status on Instagram before our departure.
The cabin crew have been lovely too. When my entertainment system stopped working, they let me move to the one spare business seat so I could still watch my movie. When the last vegetarian option wasn’t available, they managed to find me one when a passenger changed their order. The dessert of panna cotta was wonderful too.
As I’ve now finished my dinner, I’m going to settle down for a sleep in my Skybed.Læs mere
Day 24
19. juni 2024, Hong Kong ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C
I’d had some concern about whether I’d be able to sleep or not, particularly with a wake up at 4:30am, but I didn’t have any problems whatsoever. My Uber driver was right on time so after collecting my bags and closing up the apartment, my driver took a high speed route directly to the airport, guaranteeing I would not be late!
At the check in counters for Lufthansa, I didn’t receive a confirmed boarding pass for my Frankfurt flight yet, but I was still able to check in my bag and make my way through security. I bought a croissant and coffee, just in case I wouldn’t be receiving a meal onboard, and waited patiently at the boarding gate. After the last passenger boarded I still hadn’t heard anything from the ground staff so I inquired about whether I was on board. The lady said “oh yes, you’ve already got a seat”, took my standby boarding pass and wrote “3A” on it. The only downside she said is that I wouldn’t be guaranteed a meal but I didn’t mind.
As it turned out, a lot of the passengers in business class didn’t want the meal anyway, so I received a tray of cold meats, yoghurt and cheese (avoiding the cold meats of course)! The business class seats were the same as economy, with the middle seat kept free to give passengers more space. The flight was very quick although upon arrival, the wait for my bag was about 25 minutes. I think most passengers who do this route are businesspeople who don’t travel with luggage.
After taking the transfer train, I sat on a seat close to the Cathay Pacific counters and waited, as the website said they opened four hours before the flight departed. It turns out that no one told that to the staff because we were all left waiting for over half an hour in line! At check in I was given an Economy Class boarding pass straightaway and advised any upgrade would occur at the boarding gate. Considering I was given an awful middle seat, I silently prayed for an upgrade!
After going through security, I was immediately bailed up by a beauty consultant in the duty free area who wanted to give me a spiel on skin care products. I let her show me the products and even test them on my skin before politely declining her offer of sale! At the boarding gate, the lady from the check-in counter remembered me and advised she would let me know if I received an upgrade. This took a lot longer than expected, and whilst economy class was boarding, she presented me with a boarding pass for Premium Economy.
Truthfully, I was not disappointed about not receiving Business Class. The Premium Economy offered was spacious and comfortable and, as I read later, one of the best amongst all the airlines. The dinner they offered was great too, as I enjoyed a fish stir fry. I wasn’t originally sure how I’d spend my time during the flight, but decided to watch the film Cape Fear which I’d never seen before, and enjoyed a lot.
I also tried to watch the film Parasite, however tiredness was starting to set in so I thought the option of sleep sounded a lot more appealing. Tomorrow Hong Kong, then Melbourne, and then, home!Læs mere
Day 23
18. juni 2024, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C
Today I had arranged to meet up with my cousin Simone but since she was busy until lunchtime, I spent most of the morning in the apartment. Since I’m flying home tomorrow, I spent quite a bit of time trying to find the best route home possible. After checking seat numbers, connection times and destinations, I chose the route of Berlin-Frankfurt-Hong Kong-Melbourne. So you can imagine the frustration when the staff travel website crashed as I was about to buy the tickets! I called Ted for help and fortunately, he had no trouble buying them for me on the computer at home.
After walking to the train station, the connecting train to Simone’s location was easy to reach. I bought a 24 hour train pass which ended up being fortuitous as I needed to take several transport options during the day. Simone came to meet me at the train station with her 4 month old baby David who was really sweet and happy. Simone suggested we go for lunch, so we went to a Thai restaurant not far away.
The food was really nice and we were amused that the waitress was wearing a Melbourne T-shirt, although she told us she’d bought it in London. As I paid for lunch, Simone offered to pay for coffee and cake, so we went to a place nearby called House of Small Wonder which was previously a Jewish school. The two girls who worked there were actually from Australia and New Zealand, and the Aussie girl and I talked about her interest in becoming a flight attendant. Simone and I couldn’t decide on the bread pudding or the chocolate cake so we ordered both and shared them between us.
When we headed towards the U-Bahn we were detoured slightly as an apartment building was on fire, meaning there were a lot of firemen and emergency crews blocking the street. Simone was keen on having me meet her daughter Clara so we went to her daycare to pick her up. I think Clara may have been very tired though, because as Simone described it, she’s going through the Terrible Twos! After a short while at their apartment, I headed towards the U-Bahn for my journey back to Roman’s house.
The first part was easy however, trying to find the train line after leaving the U-Bahn was far from easy since the connecting station was split into two different parts depending on the train taken. Thanks to Google maps, I eventually reached the correct station and was able to return to Roman’s house without any further problems.
Even though I’d offered to buy sushi for dinner, Roman ended up paying for it, insisting that I was the guest and shouldn’t pay. Therefore I made a promise to pay when they all came to visit Australia! Tomorrow I have an early start to the day (4:30am) as I will need to be at Berlin airport for the first flight to Frankfurt. Even though there are plenty of flights, it’s better to get on the first flight possible in case there are cancellations or delays.
After packing up all my remaining items, I farewelled Roman and Steffi and thanked them for their hospitality. I’ve already ordered an Uber for tomorrow so hopefully I can still get some good sleep.Læs mere
Day 22
17. juni 2024, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Even though I don’t have any plans in the mornings, I still keep waking early which is somewhat frustrating! I spent some time in my apartment typing up this blog before meeting Roman and his family in the main house for breakfast. Today I had plans to meet my friend Luise in Leipzig, so I had an easy 15 minute walk to the train station. Since the supermarkets weren’t open yesterday, I stopped there on the way to get some food and water before catching my train.
Since arriving in Germany, my 5G hasn’t been working which has caused a deal of frustration, but fortunately there was wifi on the train to Leipzig. After a quick connection at Südkreuz station, the train journey was about one and a half hours. One thing I noticed at the station was how I was the only person wearing shorts so maybe I stood out as a tourist.
Upon arrival in Leipzig, Luise met me at the station and it was so good to see her again after 7 years. Similarly, I haven’t been to Leipzig since 1997 so I’m pretty sure it has changed since then. Luise admitted she wasn’t a very good tour guide as she was unsure about most landmarks in Leipzig, but I didn’t mind since it was nice just to walk around the city.
We first went to a Konditerei for coffee and cake, which is one of my favourite activities in Germany. When Luise said she would like to take me to the zoo, I was somewhat confused as a zoo isn’t always the most common attraction. After spending the day there, I could totally understand - the zoo is amazing! The aquarium included a lot of tropical fish from the north of Australia, and the zoo itself even had koalas and kangaroos (although I only saw the latter) - so I felt like a part of home was there with me.
We had lunch in an outdoor restaurant at the zoo, where you could see some of the Patagonian Mara nearby. One of the highlights of the zoo was Gondwanaland, which was an enormous dome containing a huge rainforest, complete with a boat cruise and treetop suspension bridges. One interesting thing was how the three toed sloths have escaped from their enclosure, and could sometimes be seen hanging from the beams up on the roof of the dome.
Luise recommended a cafe in the zoo where we could have coffee and cake and, just like our lunch venue, there was plenty of animal spotting as giraffes and ostriches walked past while we enjoyed cheesecake and coffee. Luise then accompanied me back to the train station late afternoon, so we bid each other farewell until we meet next time.
The train back was just as quick as the morning one but, since I had taken so many photos at the zoo, my phone battery was almost dead. Upon arrival back at Teltow Stadt, I chose the wrong exit and after walking for a while, realised nothing looked familiar. I opened a map back to Roman’s house on my iPhone and quickly read the names of the streets where I’d need to turn before the phone died completely. Thank God I got back okay! Otherwise I would’ve been wandering the streets of Teltow clueless.
That night I had dinner with Roman and his family again, but I have offered to buy dinner tomorrow night since I haven’t contributed anything since my visit! Roman and Steffi thought sushi sounded like a good idea. Tomorrow I’ll be visiting my cousin Simone who has lived in Berlin for about 10 years as an an opera singer.Læs mere
Day 21
16. juni 2024, Tyskland ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Despite going to bed very late last night, I still woke at the regular time, which is probably likely because my brain is working overtime thinking about everything I needed to do. As breakfast was provided here, I got dressed and went down to the modest dining room. I’m pretty sure I’m the only person who speaks English here! The breakfast was very traditionally German, with bread, meats, eggs, cheese and coffee. I think everyone else staying here is at least 60 years old too!
After last nights expensive Uber to the hotel, I asked my cousin Roman if he could pick me up today. He arranged for my other cousin Sandy to pick me up instead as she would be passing by on the way to Roman’s place. I had plenty of time to get ready, as the checkout time was 12:30pm.
It was really great to see Sandy and Martin again, and I also got to meet their three kids, including their eldest Julia who is thinking about coming to Adelaide next year. I was originally concerned that my suitcase would be too big for their car but we managed to fit it in perfectly.
The drive to Roman and Steffi’s house was about 20 minutes and he has very kindly let me stay there during my time in Berlin. He has a detached apartment close to his house, which they rent out via Airbnb, and is a great size with two bedrooms, kitchen and a large living room. Roman had arranged a barbecue for all of us which was a great way to spend the afternoon. Plenty of food and good conversation!
The weather turned bad by late afternoon, which everyone said has been typical of the weather recently, so we packed up everything and continued inside. Sadly it wasn’t long until Sandy, Martin and their kids had to return to their place which is about an hour away. Hopefully we will be back in Germany again or they will be able to come to Australia soon.
By the evening, the weather had turned nice again, so Roman and Steffi set dinner up again outside. Since the days are longer here too, it was still light when we all headed to bed. Tomorrow I will taking a train to Leipzig to visit my friend Luise whom I met whilst studying Spanish in Valencia back in 2017.Læs mere
Day 20
15. juni 2024, Tyskland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Even though my flight wasn’t until the afternoon, I still woke early for some reason and packed up my few final things before heading out for breakfast with Heddi and her family. Since our experience with that awful restaurant a few days back, we have been using Google reviews to check every venue from now on. Heddi found a wonderful cafe just outside their apartment called Next Level Specialty Coffee so we thought we’d give it a try.
We were very glad we did - the service, food and coffee were all great. It made me wonder if it had some sort of Australian connection since they served a flat white (first one I’ve seen in Europe) as well as avocado on toast.
Heddi walked me back to my apartment for a final farewell before I relaxed in my apartment until 11am, the checkout time. The wheels on my suitcase have been giving me grief so I wasn’t looking forward to the 12 minute walk back to the train station in the Málaga heat. I considered paying extra for an Uber and now, in hindsight, I’m wondering if I should have done that!
Everything was going okay, despite the fact that my bag was so difficult to drag, but when I finally arrived at my “destination”, it was not the place I wanted! Despite Google Maps saying it was the train station, it was another part of the city altogether. I tried the directions again, finally arriving at the station as a hot and sweaty mess. And just as annoying, the elevator at the station didn’t work so I had to lug the suitcase all the way down the stairs too.
Fortunately I didn’t have to wait long for a train, although there was a mad rush of people embarking and disembarking. After travelling a few stops, I noticed that there were actually two different trains, and only one of them went to the airport! After waiting to see what station would come next, I was relieved to see I was on the correct train!
As the check-in counters hadn’t opened yet, I parked myself in a Starbucks cafe directly across from them so I could relax with a water and croissant, type up this blog, and easily see when they would open. After checking my bag through to Berlin, I went through the slow security area before looking for my gate. I bought two sandwiches and a bottle of water too, just in case there would be no food option on my flight.
Our flight to Lisbon was on an Embraer, complete with a screaming baby. After seeing our arrival time, I thought it was only going to be a 20 minute flight, before realising that Portugal is in a different time zone, so it was actually 1:20! The flight was mostly uneventful, and upon our arrival in Lisbon we were bussed to the terminal from the aeroplane.
Lisbon airport wasn’t all that interesting, particularly since I couldn’t get any signal in the terminal. I bought myself a coffee and Portuguese tart before sitting down at a charging station which was located right below a departure screen. Once I knew where my Berlin flight was departing from, I collected my things and headed straight for the departure gate.
Once again we needed to catch a bus to the aeroplane, and I was surprised to see a woman with a Qantas bag. We talked briefly before boarding and learned she was a staff traveller. I was very happy with my seat - it was the emergency exit row which had a huge amount of legroom and comfort. I befriended one of the flight attendants who was seated next to us, and I also managed to get another crewfie before the flight landed.
Upon arrival into Berlin, there was quite a long wait for our bags, as the baggage belt was being used for two other flights as well. As it was already past 11pm, I needed to get an Uber to my accommodation, which was easily done as there is an Uber pickup area at Berlin airport. The only difficult part was the wait - it took a while for a driver to take the job, and even then, I had to wait about 20 minutes before he arrived.
The accommodation I’m in is literally in the middle of nowhere! It’s in an area called Mittenwald which was still a distance from the airport. Fortunately the hotel gave me easy instructions to get in - similar to the last accommodation, I needed to retrieve my room key from a lockbox, before opening and re-locking the front door, tiptoeing down a hallway, and going into my room.
To call the room quaint is appropriate - it’s very traditional German style. After the long day today though, I was just so happy to see a shower and a comfortable bed. Tomorrow I will be seeing my German cousins - the first time since 1997!Læs mere
Day 19
14. juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
We had an earlier start today for our 12 hour day to Granada and the Alhambra. Fortunately I still had plenty of time to have breakfast and get ready before walking to the pickup point at a nearby hotel. I originally wondered if we needed to wear pants as I was unsure if the Alhambra was a religious site. When I saw a group of men standing near the pickup with trousers on, I thought I’d dressed inappropriately but fortunately they were just businessmen on their way to work!
Heddi, Pentti and Freja arrived shortly afterwards before we boarded the bus with all the other tourists, including some Australians I recognised straight away by their accents. Our first stop today was at a service centre for coffee and to use the bathrooms. It seemed like every other tour bus was there too, which was heavily overloaded with teenagers. But at least the coffee was decent.
Originally the itinerary said we would visit Alhambra first which we were pleased with as the day was meant to be hot…as it turned out, we went to Granada first! Our guide gave us a basic walking tour of the city, which included examples of the architecture and the shopping laneways. We then had plenty of free time to explore (about 2.5 hours) so we went to a nice paella restaurant for lunch before looking through some of the shops and the Plaza Larga.
I treated myself and Freja to an ice cream from KFC as I couldn’t find a churros restaurant, before we all continued on towards Alhambra. First we saw more of Granada from the bus, as well as the Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance before arriving. We then met with our guide for Alhambra who gave us each individual headphones which made his tour much easier to hear.
The first sight we saw were the Generalife Gardens, which were a beautiful combination of hedges, rose bushes and fountains. The palace and the gardens were originally used as a private retreat and summer palace for the Nasrid rulers and their family, away from the official business that took place in the Alhambra.
The Alcazaba citadel looked more like ancient ruins and is the oldest part of the Alhambra today. It was the centrepiece of the complicated system of fortifications that protected the area. Its tallest tower, the 26m high Torre del Homenaje ('Tower of Homage'), was the military command post of the complex. Some parts of the Alhambra faced annihilation at the hands of Napoleon’s army when, after occupying the fortress city in 1812, retreating French forces laid explosives at their departure with plans to destroy the Alhambra. Some blasts damaged a few buildings in the complex, but most of it remains intact today.
One of my favourites were the Nasrid palaces, which are a continuation of Moorish (western Islamic) architecture from earlier centuries but developed their own characteristics. This includes a combination of courtyards, water features, gardens, arches, and stucco and tile decorations.
The Palace of the Lions is one of the most famous palaces in Islamic architecture and consists of a rectangular courtyard centered on a marble fountain with twelve sculpted lions. This was where a lot of the most intricate architecture was obvious, with the three dimensional Muqarnas architecture in places like the Hall of the Two Sisters.
We had expected today to be really hot and unbearable but since the tour was at an easier pace and there was plenty of shade, it turned out to be easier than we’d expected. Our drive back to Málaga was quicker too as we didn’t have any stops, and were back around 8pm.
As I’m heading to Berlin via Lisbon tomorrow, I needed to pack up everything before my departure tomorrow, meaning I wouldn’t have time to go out for dinner. Fortunately I had enough food in the apartment so it wasn’t a problem. Málaga has been a very pleasant stopover, and it has been wonderful to see Heddi and her family again, but tomorrow I will head to my final destination of this holiday before heading back home!Læs mere
Day 18
13. juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
Last night I had a very good sleep, as I was clearly recovering from the previous day! The day was definitely a challenge - I didn’t end up having any time to buy food before, so this morning I woke up very hungry and slightly dehydrated. As the supermarkets don’t open until 8:30am, I went down to buy some cereal, bread, juice, water and almond milk. What a huge relief to be better organised than before!
Heddi and Pentti had plans to go to Gibralfaro Castle, so I headed out to their apartment to meet up with them. Fortunately most sights in Málaga are close and very easy to reach, however all the lanes and alleyways are so confusing! The walk up to the castle wasn’t very easy - most of it was straight uphill, and the weather wasn’t exactly cool! We did have a nice sea breeze thankfully. The views from the top were wonderful too.
Similar to the cathedral yesterday, the castle provided an audio tour you could add to your mobile phone, however after a while we lost interest and did our own thing. After coming back down to ground level, we were all feeling hungry so we went to a cafe named Cister Catorce which was located right there in the square and advertised €2 tapas. Big mistake! After sitting down, we ordered only drinks but the service was so unbelievably rude, I thought I’d do a quick check of the reviews on Google. I’m glad I did - there was absolutely nothing good written about the place, and the average rating was 1.1/5. We then quickly decided to go elsewhere which was a smart move - even the four drinks we ordered were an absolute rip-off.
We relied on Google again for advice, and found Cafetería Framil, which was a welcome delight after the last place. I had the lunch meal special which included cold tomato soup (may have been gazpacho), vegetarian bocadillo and crème caramel for dessert. Great choice! By this time, we were all feeling a bit tired, so we returned to our respective apartments to rest.
When I arrived back at the apartment I was thrilled to see that the washing machine was now fixed, so I washed some clothes before having a nap. Heddi suggested going for a walk down to the beach and waterfront area, where Pentti and Freja had gone earlier so that Freja could swim at the beach. It was a very affluent area, with yachts and expensive boats docked there, as well as exorbitant prices at the restaurants and bars. Clearly you were paying for the location!
For dinner, Heddi and I went back into the city centre to eat at Andino Gastrobar, a Latin American restaurant which was very popular and had a wonderful atmosphere. It seemed a bit unusual having South American food in Spain but the menu was good so we didn’t mind. I had the empanadas but could’ve eaten a lot more.
Since we have a full day at Alhambra tomorrow, we stopped and bought some snacks at a small supermarket as were really not sure what the food arrangements will be. I definitely don’t want to spend another day with a rumbling stomach!Læs mere
Day 17
12. juni 2024, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
Today was our earliest start so far, so when the alarm went off at 3:30am, we didn’t exactly jump out of bed with excitement! Fortunately we were well prepared last night, so we only needed to get dressed, brush our teeth, grab our bags and walk slightly down the street to wait for our pre-booked Uber driver.
Ted had been concerned about the number of seats available on his KLM flight back to Amsterdam but he didn’t need to worry because he got a ticket without any trouble. He did however need to check a bag in, but he will still have time in Amsterdam to collect it before his next flight.
We had breakfast together at Le Pain Quotidien in the airport before we sadly had to separate before continuing on our individual itineraries. As Ted didn’t have as much holiday leave as myself, he is heading to Bali to meet our friend Josh before returning home, whilst I am going to Málaga to see my longtime pen pal Heddi and her family, followed by family and friends in Berlin. Fortunately there is wifi on Singapore Airlines, so I was able to communicate with him throughout his journey.
I stayed behind in the cafe to continue typing this blog and, by the time Ted landed in Amsterdam, it was only just time for me to check into my RyanAir flight. Fortunately the process was very quick, as RyanAir seems to have gotten some things right! The security process at Brussels airport was very thorough, which I assume could be a result of the terrorist attack a few years ago. Since my flight wasn’t until after 9, I bought myself a water and chocolate croissant before waiting in the boarding lounge until it was time to board our flight.
Unsurprisingly, the flight was very mediocre, and slightly worse than I’d anticipated. This was mainly due to there being no vegetarian option available, meaning I could only have a bottle of water and Pringles for the 3.5 hour flight. I was hoping for a crewfie with the RyanAir crew to add to my collection but they weren’t particularly friendly or outgoing.
When we arrived in Málaga, we were greeted with warm weather and fortunately, the quick arrival of my bag. It was a long walk to the airport train station and I wondered what the long queue was for. It turned out it was for the train ticket machine, so I joined the line. After nearly taking the wrong platform, I was finally on my way to the accommodation.
The 12 minute walk from the nearest station to my apartment wasn’t all that fun due to the broken wheel on my bag and even though the weather wasn’t that warm, I was a sweaty mess by the time I arrived! The check in process was odd - I never actually met anyone, I just had to send a copy of my passport to the owner via WhatsApp to verify my identity, then they sent me the code for the front door including instructions on how to retrieve the room key from the lockbox.
The apartment is absolutely beautiful and very well equipped, so I definitely made the right choice with this place. After having a shower, I discovered that a moisturiser had leaked in my suitcase, so I used the washing machine to wash some clothes before heading out to meet Heddi, Penntti and Freja at their apartment.
It was so great seeing Heddi again! I haven’t seen her since I was living in Valencia doing my language exchange in 2017. She took me up to their apartment where I met up with Pentti and Freja. I gave them my presents from Australia (koala socks and a notepad) which I bought from a koala hospital in Port Macquarie, and they gave me a cartoon book about Finnish people.
Since I had barely eaten since this morning, I was extremely grateful they had set out a lunch in their apartment of cheese, bread and fruits. After lunch, we went to look at Málaga Cathedral which included an audio walking tour. By the end of the tour, I was really struggling to stay awake after our 3:30am start to the day, so I went back to the apartment for a quick nap before we went out for dinner that night.
When I returned to the apartment, I was shocked to see that the handle on the washing machine door had broken…and I couldn’t retrieve my clothes! I sent a quick message to the owner of the apartment about my dilemma before going out for dinner. Pentti had been recommended a tapas restaurant where we had a very good meal, which included salmon, mushroom and vegetarian options. I paid for dinner as Heddi had paid for my ticket to the Alhambra on Friday.
Heddi and Pentti offered to come back to my apartment to help open the washing machine but upon my return, saw that it was now open! I think the owner may have come into the apartment to try and fix it. I was just so grateful to be able to retrieve my clothes! The owner also advised they’d send a handyman over tomorrow.
We will be having an easier day tomorrow as I will probably still be a bit tired, but it’s cool being here for the first time in Málaga!Læs mere
Day 16
11. juni 2024, Belgien ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C
We didn’t sleep in today, as we were probably self conscious of oversleeping and missing our departure from the ship! There was certainly nothing to be concerned about though as most of our luggage had been collected for us last night, meaning we only had to go to breakfast and collect our last few items before leaving.
Our departure time was listed as 8am, but as we were already ready, we disembarked early to see if we could collect our bag and leave. As it turned out we could, and it was just as easy as our boarding process. Since Amsterdam was quite rainy, we decided to take a taxi to Centraal Station, as there didn’t seem to be an Uber pickup area available.
Our very talkative driver checked our train departure for us, advising of our platform to disembark from. When we arrived at Centraal, we were unpleasantly surprised when the driver informed us he only took cash, meaning we needed to scramble and find an ATM in the train station. Fortunately, Ted found a Travelex ATM, where I was able to withdraw some Euro.
As it seemed like we’d just missed a train, we bought some mediocre coffee before taking the elevator to our platform. When a train pulled into the station indicating Brussels, Ted wondered if the train would go to Brussels Central too. As it turned out, it was the earlier train we thought we’d missed, which was half an hour late. Since we had bought an ICE train ticket, we were able to catch this train straightaway, rather than waiting another 2 hours for our original train.
The train was a basic 2nd class but we didn’t mind, since there was plenty of room and it was comfortable enough. The journey had about nine stops before reaching Brussels Central. It wasn’t until we reached Breda that our tickets were checked, as this was where the international travel started.
On the way I managed to get a very distant photo of the Atomium, which wasn’t made easy as the view was either blocked by a tree, a building or another train. Our arrival into Brussels was easier than our Amsterdam arrival, as the station was less frantic. Our accommodation is only a four minute walk from the station too. All I can say about Brussels is….wow!
Before we even reached our accomodation, we were both surprised by the quaintness and beauty of the area. It was like a combination of Amsterdam, Paris and St. Petersburg all in one. Everywhere you looked there was a sweet delight of decadence, whether it was chocolate, pasties, waffles or macaroons, as well as high end shops and fancy hotels. Our accommodation also did not disappoint - it was located in the Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries, which is an ensemble of three glazed shopping arcades, comprising of cafes and fancy shops.
The only problem we had was checking in. As we had arrived early, there was no one to speak to but fortunately a man from the business next door called one of the reception staff for us. Our room was already ready, so we were able to leave our bags to go exploring. The room was also large and impressive - it seemed to consist of African artefacts and artwork for decorations.
Since we were hungry we settled on going to Burger King for lunch, which isn’t ideal, but was a decent and cheap enough option for us. We looked through a few of the shops where we bought some items from a “Tin Tin” store, before starting our own walking tour I had created before leaving Australia.
Our first stop was the enormous Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula, located within easy walking distance from our accommodation. We then proceeded to the impressive Mont des Arts, which is an historic site, including the Royal Library of Belgium, the National Archives of Belgium, and a beautifully manicured public garden. It also provided a great view from above, where we could see the Brussels Town Hall in the distance.
Even though there were a lot of renovations and roadworks happening, it wasn’t difficult reaching the nearby Royal Palace which was really impressive, and didn’t have the crazy amount of crowds of Buckingham Palace. There was a huge park across the road from the palace so, after buying an ice cream, it was a beautiful place to wander and enjoy the serenity.
After walking past the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, we took photos of the Église Notre-Dame des Victoires au Sablon, but were more impressed by the stunning Square du Petit Sablon across the road, which was a flower garden designed in a Flemish Neo-Renaissance style, surrounded by 48 bronze statues depicting medieval professions, such as stone-cutters, tallow makers and linen croppers.
No trip to Brussels would be complete without seeing Manneken Pis (the replica anyway), so we headed there next, as well as (seemingly) every other tourist in Brussels. The number of tourist shops surrounding the underwhelming statue was huge yet, as tempting as it was to buy something chintzy, we decided to pass.
The best was yet to come though as we reached The Grand-Place/Grote Markt which is, without doubt, one of the most beautiful town squares we have seen. It was surrounded by the Town Hall, King’s House, and the Houses of the Grand-Place. The square had so much colour and vibrancy, it was like an overload on the senses.
After our sightseeing, we headed back to the apartment to relax. It is interesting but we had originally regretted booking a side trip to Brussels, solely because Ted’s flight from here to Singapore was changed, meaning he now has to go back to Amsterdam tomorrow to make the flight. We came anyway as we had already paid for the train tickets and accommodation, and we are so glad we did now.
We thought we would go out for a drink but the closest gay venue - whilst very cheap for drinks - was full of men over 65! For an early dinner we went to Chez Charles Brasserie, which we both enjoyed because the portions of food were huge. Ted had been keen on trying some Belgian meatballs which he had, while I settled for pasta.
Afterwards we went to a local gay street where we had a beer and met an Australian/Belgian couple. Whilst there, it started to pour rain so we went back to our apartment to get everything ready for our departure tomorrow. As Ted’s flight to Amsterdam is at 6am, we will need to wake at 3:30am to take an Uber to the airport. Yikes!
Brussels has been a wonderful experience - not one we were expecting but also one that exceeded our expectations.Læs mere
Få din egen rejseprofil
Gratis
