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Japan 88 Temples Pilgrimage
  • Susan Wagland
  • Susan Wagland

Japan 88 Temples Pilgrimage

Two weeks on the 88 Temples Pilgrimage on the beautiful Japanese island of Shikoku, and a few days in Tokyo and Kyoto. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 29, 2025
  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    In the car
    In the car3Shanghái Airlines inflight meal

    Tokyo

    September 30, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    Arrived at Imano hostel at 11:30pm in a pre-booked car from Narita Airport.

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Shinjuku National gardens
    Shinjuku National gardensA man fixes the board by his restaurantShinjuku catHanazono-jinja ShrineBird on bridge in gardens1Anyone in a bright colour is foreignCrazy air plant in the greenhouseSpiky cushionsFor Jane and Charles, spider lily1Sweetcorn well packaged3On the subway2Team Labs Planets - my dolphin swims on the wallTeam Labs Planets - gardens sectionTeam Labs Planets - water section

    Shinjuku, Tokyo

    October 1, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    I arrived at Imano hostel at 11:30pm in a pre-booked car from Narita Airport. I had a hostel breakfast with a Malaysian family, mum and two teenage girls. 

    Top priority today was buying a ticket for Wednesday's bullet train at Shinjuku main station. Then I spent the afternoon in busy Shinjuku before catching a train to Toyoso and Team Labs Planets. This is an interactive art installation based on light and mirrors and it's great fun.

    The lady in the Shinjuku tourist office  drew a route on my map with all the best places to go. So, I saw the Shinjuku cat, Godzilla, the shrine, and the gardens.

    It's raining, but everyone has an umbrella and the hostel has some for loan. Everyone is very well groomed and mostly dressed in black, white and grey, or jeans.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Samurai armour
    Samurai armourVending machines everywhere1Palace gates, big stonesMe with an American called Dylan at the Guardhouse2The emperor's carp2Mermaid4Bento2SwanboatsNational Museum in Ueno ParkMy favorite kimono, chrysanthemums, clouds, fish, birdsWarriors set off to fight demon, with rucksacks2Coconut and mango tapioca drinkSo many instructionsUeno shopping streetOverwrapped fruitShiny fishMy hostel in Tokyo4Fruit sandwiches

    Imperial Palace and Ueno Park

    October 2, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    The Imperial Palace East gardens occupy the site of the Edo era palace that burned down. A few sections still stand, and it was a really interesting half day. Lunch was a meat and egg supermarket bento box.

    The afternoon was spent in Ueno Park with swan boats and a visit to the National Museum. I was flagging, and revitalised with iced matcha latte.  After that I wandered through Ueno's noisy market-like shopping street and meandered back to the hostel by Metro.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    2Walk on the leftMetro stations are numbered and namedDiagram shows you where the exits areKindergarten uniform3Cakes with fruit in jellySpecial edition cakes with Tokyo station1Fuji from the trainEkibento - chicken with rice and pickled ginger2Kyoto riverRyokan hostel5My bed podDinner just one optionMaking the dinner1The train before mineCrowded

    Kyoto and the bullet train

    October 3, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I was excited about the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. It's ok to eat on the train if it's the Shinkansen, so I bought an Ekibento (train bento box). We moved fast, but I had no sensation of 285 kph. Yet we covered 515 km in 2 hours 15 mins. Kind passengers moved to let me sit by the window to see Mount Fuji.

    I found Ryokan, a very comfortable Kyoto hostel, and went out to eat in the old Gion district with German Layla and Danish Lucas.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Efficient temple guidePalace gate, cedar wood3Garden within palace1Tea and toast laid out with careTea and toast shopNikiri: chopstick shopRice crackers1Octopus on sticks2I had a strawberry chocolate daifukuHairpin shop3Many flavours of KitKatI had shrimp tempuraA taste of Wagyu beef4Nikiri MarketYasuka templeGirl who had rented a kimonoGarden at Hideyoshi shrineKiyomosu TempleView from Kiyomosu Temple

    Kyoto palace and temples

    October 4, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Kyoto's Imperial Palace was rebuilt in 1869 in traditional 8th century style in cedar wood after it burned down, as it had several times before.

    The guide's English was perfect but I couldn't hear him over the rain on umbrellas and the feet on gravel. After a few big cedar gates and halls, I was ready for tea in an old Japanese tea shop. This particular place was the woman's grandparents' home. They loved Japanese art, and she showed me a beautiful book on the art of Japanese screens, which I read for half an hour.

    Nishiki market was my next stop. It was very busy - it is Saturday - but fun, and dry. I bought snacks! Then I went to Yakima Temple, Hideyoshi shrine which I loved, even in rain, and  Kiyomosu temple on top of a hill. I didn't go inside as I'd had enough of crowds.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Kinkakuji Temple
    Kinkakuji TempleEvery tree a work of art and natureMossy treeSupermarket1For Jo. I tried the plums. Disgusting.Quiet residential streetNinnajiNinnaji temple, palace gardensNinnaji gardens and tea houseSoba noodles with kitsune (fried tofu), rice, tofu, pickles, chili powderLunch restaurantTrain at level crossing by stationThe start of the climb to the monkey sanctuary1Macaques2Feeding them peanuts through the barsView of Kyoto from monkey sanctuary1Bamboo pathRickshaw in bamboo pathPhoto site at bamboo path

    Kyoto Golden Pavilion and Monkeys

    October 5, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    I took an early bus to be at Kinkakuji Temple, the Golden Pavilion, at 9AM, but it was already busy, with parties of schoolchildren and Chinese and Italian tour groups. It's still breathtaking even in rain, and the gardens are beautiful.

    Then I LOST MY PHONE. It wasn't in my pocket when I wanted to photograph my bitter green tea and sweet bean curd with gold leaf. With the temple staff, we found it, handed in to a gift shop. Those were anxious minutes.

    Ninnaji temple was my next stop, and finally it was a temple that wasn't crowded. Lunch was in a Japanese restaurant near the temple, that sold variations on noodles, rice and tofu. Delicious.

    Finally, at Arashiyama I climbed to the monkey sanctuary and walked the Bamboo Path.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Huge gate to Heian Jingu Shrine
    Huge gate to Heian Jingu ShrineSilver pavilion entry ticketSea of silver sandSilver Pavilion and moon viewing mound1Photo spot3Moss and lichen, grass not allowedTornado picked cucumberAncestral spirits beside the canal. Each has their name. Temporary resting place for war deadPhilosopher's Path3Very sorry for the inconvenienceShrine with animalsMouse part of shrineLike a Cheshire catIntricate pencil sketching on a bridge1My bamboo flower boat floats, so I will have a happy lifeChinese couple in cafe. I had the same as them, curry and riceSchoolchildren at the entrance to Heian Jingu ShrineHeian Jingu gardens, children in background1An old pine tree propped upView from bridgeBridge

    Kyoto slow day

    October 6, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    My last day in Kyoto. I took a bus to the Silver Pavilion (Ginkakuji) which has immaculate gardens of trees, moss, stones and a sea of silver sand. Walking the Philosopher's Path back to the centre took me past a tiny, busy cafe where I stopped for lunch.

    Then I went to Heian Jingu shrine, where the 50th emperor Kanmu (died 806) and the 121st ruler Komei (died 1866) are buried. Kanmu is deified as the ancestral god of Kyoto and Komei is also deified. This is a large and important shrine with extensive gardens.

    A Chinese girl in the hostel explained to me about the ancestral spirits in the stones.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Whirlpools, from the bus
    Whirlpools, from the busOnigiri - tuna ones are nice2Wait for the green man - at Osaka stationIced latte and roasted green tea cheesecakeOn the world's longest suspension bridgeThe bridge over the whirlpools1WhirlpoolsTokushima

    Tokushima - travel day

    October 7, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I was impatient to leave big cities, go to Shikoku Island and start the walk. I took a bus to Kyoto station, waited a stressful 30 minutes to buy a ticket for the train to Osaka and took the train, then in Osaka found the bus stop for Tokushima. An iced coffee and roasted green tea cheesecake calmed my nerves after all that ticket-buying and platform-finding. The very comfortable bus arrived in Tokushima at 12:30. 

    On the Tokushima bus we crossed Akashi Kaikyo Bridge - the world's longest suspension bridge, 3911m - to reach Awaji island, and then Onaruto bridge to Shikoku island, over famous whirlpools! A Chinese family I met at the bus stop were going on a boat trip to see them.

    This afternoon I joined a Henro (pilgrimage) orientation meeting, then found my hostel.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Temple 1
    Temple 1Temple 2My calligraphy bookTemple 3Graveyard within Temple 3Ring the bell1My calligraphy at Temple 3Persimmon trees are everywhere and very prolificTemple 4Huge old ginko with fruitTemple 5Temple 6 where I'm stayingTemple dinnerUnfamiliar flowers

    Temples 1-6, Tokushima

    October 8, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This pilgrimage visits 88 Buddhist Temples around Shikoku. The Japanese use a mixture of walking, car and public transport.

    Temples 1-6 are close together so it's easy to visit them all in one day by walking, and tonight I'm in Temple 6's comfortable temple accommodation.

    The walk was through small towns on the outskirts of Tokushima city.

    On arrival at each temple there's a sequence of actions: bowing, washing hands, lighting candles and incense, saying sutras, ringing the bell and obtaining proof of prayer in a stamp book or calligraphy book.

    It's been 28-29 degrees today, too hot for me.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    I climb the steps at Temple 10
    I climb the steps at Temple 10Temple lodging breakfast, 3 kinds of seaweedTemple 7Temple 8Temple guardians at Temple 8Washing handsPauline, Japanese cyclist Shu and me1RiceTemple 9Calligraphy at Temple 9Typical landscape1OkraTemple 102Dressed as Henro2Ringing the bellYoshino river

    Temples 7-10, Kamojima

    October 9, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    It was not as hot today and I felt much better. I walked all day with a Québécoise called Pauline (Porinu on her breakfast place).

    We walked through villages and it's been more rural. It's still mostly on road and black tarmac is hot, but I now have full Henro (pilgrim) attire and the hat is very practical.Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Temple 11 inside Daishi hall
    Temple 11 inside Daishi hallHelpful Hostel manTemple 11, old and wooden gateTemple 11, inside, wonderful thingsTemple 11 Daishi hallJizo statues, protect people who have died youngJizo statue housesWooden stepsLichenView over Toshino river where I stayed. I've climbed a long way1Stone by pathHenro rest stopSteep pathKobo Daishi who started Japanese Shingon Buddhism and created this pilgrimageNear Temple 12Temple 12I'm in a youth hostel and this is my pillow

    Temples 11-12, Kamiyama

    October 10, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today was a hard day, but not as tough as it could have been. Temple 12 is on a mountain with a very steep ascent to reach it. I worried about whether I could walk from my hostel to Temple 11, to Temple 12, then to my next hostel,  before dark. 

    The man at the hostel made me a superb breakfast of egg, boiled potatoes and ham, with tofu and a dip of lime juice and soy sauce, toast with cheese, ham and his homemade tomato puree, yogurt and half a banana, with a glass of milk. We had a chat via Google translate, then his wife generously gave me a lift to Temple 11.

    The walk was very steep but beautiful, and shady. Forest paths with stone or wooden steps, with little Jizo statues. I really enjoyed it. It was good to be in mountains and off roads, and very quiet, with just a few other Henros.

    At Temple 12 I met American Kenny from breakfast yesterday and he offered me a lift in his taxi on the way to his hotel. He left me at a convenience store to pick up my dinner and on the way out, I chatted with an American and his Japanese wife.  They gave me a lift to my hostel, 3rd kind lift of the day and well before dark.

    In the evening I went to the nearby Onsen - spa bath.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Temple 14 bell
    Temple 14 bellBreakfast in the lorry parkNice house with shed and own rice fieldRural scene, power lines everywhereHillside graveyardWeeping cherry treesWalk through the tunnelLily gingerTemple 13Jizo with offerings of bottled water, local citrus fruit and camphor leavesTemple 14Roof of main hall, Temple 14This was loud @JacquesUnusually bright house, most buildings are neutral coloursTemple 15Calligraphy from Temples 14 and 15Temple 16Temple 16 main hall, dragon on roofTemple 16, Yonaki (evening/cry) Jizo, makes children stop crying at nightTemple 16, KukaiTemple 17 was grand1Dragon waterMain hallMy Ryokan Uroko-roRyokan roomDinner: pumpkin soup and baked mackerel came later

    Temples 13-17, Kokufu

    October 11, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I chose an alternative, more rural route to Temple 13 and saw no other Henros. It went through a National Park with pine trees and weeping cherries and passed a power station surrounded by orange-flowered shrubs.

    First, I walked 5km to a convenience store to buy breakfast and lunch. As you can't eat in the shop, even in the 'restaurant area', my breakfast was outside at a picnic table by the lorry park.

    Every temple is different. Some are grand, some modest. Each has its own deity. Temple 17 seemed popular and a Japanese family was enjoying the rituals, especially ringing bells.

    I'm sleeping in a traditional Ryokan guest house on a futon with tatami mats. Dinner, with a couple from Vancouver, was very tasty homemade Japanese food. The owner helped me with future bookings as I can't use my phone in Japan, or speak Japanese.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Feeding stray cat
    Feeding stray cat11Spirited Away themed garden?Kukai at Temple 18Steps to Temple 18Some people collect calligraphy on a scroll1Through the spooky bamboo forestLocal lime-like citrus, sudachi2Ono and meTemple 19Main hall Temple 19Pilgrims chantTatsue station

    Temples 18-19, Tatsue

    October 12, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    All rooms are booked near these temples so I'm returning to Tokushima each day and missing out some road walking. 

    I saw a man feeding a cat and stopped to watch. He beckoned me over and let me stroke the cat. Then he left me to hold the bowl and walked off. I fed the fat stray cat his tinned fish.

    Later, a woman who was parking her car waved at me. She dived into her car and came out with bottles of lemonade and water, which she pressed into my hands. This is the custom of Osettai where local people give gifts to pilgrims. I knew about it and was prepared with a blessing slip to give in return but it was still very moving.

    I had a long chat with 76 year old Ono who proudly told me the blue LED was invented near here. He gave me Osettai too, sweet biscuits.

    Very humid and warm here.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Jizo in forest
    Jizo in forestSteep climbView of Naka river from half wayTemple 20Japanese pilgrim MiyakoScary bridgeTemple 21 and motorbikesJizosTrying to ring the big bellTemple 21 scene"Ropeway" is one way down from T21Buddhas line the path to T22Roped pathTemple 22, afternoon lightTemple guardiansA service was under wayTemple 22 main hall2One stone per bird

    Temples 20-22, Aratano

    October 13, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    A very nice day. Temples 20 and 21 are on the top of mountains, and required a lot of climbing. I love steep narrow mountain tracks beside ravines. Then, once you're at the temple, there are lots of steps to the halls. All these temples were really beautiful.

    At Temple 21, two ladies asked me to help ring the big bell, so I did, and while it resounded, one of them blew into a conch shell three times. Super loud! There was much laughter. Then the younger lady and I stood with our backs to the conch lady. She blew it again and I felt the sound vibrating in my back, which was weird.

    Today is a public holiday in Japan - Sports Day - so the temples were busy.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    At Fukui dam
    At Fukui damSesame and red bean doughnut, iced coffee1On the trainAratanoFukui dam1Upstream from damDownstream from dam2Roadside flowersPilgrim rest area2Through a mountainTaiwanese friendsApproaching HiwasaHiwasa and Temple 23Temple guardian style art on bridgeIchi the Hostel, where I am tonight, super coolMy bunk

    Hiwasa

    October 14, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Late start today after taking a train out from Tokushima to Aratano where I finished yesterday. I was worried about the heat as 29 degrees was the forecast but in fact there was nearly always shade, wind or cloud and it was fine.

    In Aratano a tiny old lady working in her garden called out to me, sure that I was going the wrong way. With hand gestures and Google translate she directed me to the right road.

    I am very fortunate to be walking through beautiful Japanese countryside and small towns. To visit all 88 temples takes 50-60 days. I only have a few days left and I'll have to come back.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Scenic coast road view
    Scenic coast road viewFrench motorcyclists at the hostel, Dorian and Stanislas4I have a Henro bag nowTemple 23Temple 23 main hallTemple 23 Daishi hall bellEnglish musician OllyPagoda at Temple 23View of Hiwasa from the pagodaPilgrim-friendly Udon restaurant, closed when I passed at 9:30Vire from coast roadView from coast roadMugi streetMugi harbourThe worst thing today, tunnel on a busy road with narrow footpathA temple not in the 88, Saba DaishiMy minshukuMy room1Dinner: big pot is riceDiners

    Temple 23, Sabase, near Mugi

    October 15, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After visiting Temple 23, as an alternative to a busy main road, I diverted to a quiet ravine-spanning coast road that promised ocean views, although 5km longer. Now and then monkeys loped across the road ahead of me.

    My minshuku accommodation is a very basic traditional Japanese family-run guest house with dinner and breakfast. Futon on the floor, tatami mats and the pillow feels like a bean bag, no WiFi but there is air-conditioning.

    At dinner, I tried everything. I loved the langoustines and raw fish, but couldn't eat the squid.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Osato
    OsatoAsakawa harbourAsakawa harbourOsato lake2Jumping fishSurfers' cafePersimmonsDMVShishikui seafrontShishikui nice house with statues. Kukai on left

    Shisakui

    October 16, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I detoured to explore a scenic area and found pretty coastline and a lake with jumping fish.

    On the road, a man was harvesting persimmons with a clever gadget which I admired, and he gave me two persimmons.

    After heavy rain overnight, today has been hot and extremely humid. I stopped in a surfers' cafe for a break from the heat and had Udon noodle soup for lunch.

    In Shisakui, I had to see the DMV (Dual Mode Vehicle).    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Misaki Sanko Hotel, nice room but still a shared bathroom
    Misaki Sanko Hotel, nice room but still a shared bathroom2Breakfast tourDMV arrives for meWe're on an elevated trackNow we're going down a ramp to the roadSolidago (Goldenrod) grows everywhereTsunami instructionsKukai's caves where he lived and studied 1200 years ago, very wet1250 Jizo statues at Mizukakejizo, we pour water over them to quench the thirst of those we've lostRocky coastlineTemple 24, on top of the hill near the lighthouseInside main hall of T241Ringing stone at T24, the sound reaches loved ones who have passed awayTemple 24 tourAt the lighthouse

    Temple 24 - Maruto

    October 17, 2025 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    This was a half rest day to give time for exploring Cape Muroto, a rocky tip of land and a Geo Park because it has interesting rock formations. However, it was very hot, 29 degrees, so I retreated to my hotel.

    To get here I took the Dual Mode Vehicle (DMV) on rail, then road, then a bus, then walked along the coast. The DMV is very popular locally and there were children's drawings of it on the station walls. When it changed from rail to road there was an announcement, I felt it go down, and somebody clapped.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Temple 25 - fishermen pray here for safety at sea
    Temple 25 - fishermen pray here for safety at seaRocky shorePublic address system plays music at 12 and 5PMMuroto, small harbour, huge sea wallTsunami escape towerInner harbour, more wallsHarbourTemple 25 main gate - steps were a challenge for an elderly Japanese lady2Temple 25 main hall, origami garlandsPaddington jizoHelpful friend at Temple 25 with Shaun the Sheep t shirtRoadside bindweedTemple 26Temple 26 main hallInsense cauldronGraduate student working in the salt factory

    Temples 25-26, Nahari

    October 18, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    A half day and another Onsen! At Temple 25 a temple employee and her son helped me phone my host for tonight. The boy especially was very happy to help and waved me goodbye enthusiastically.

    When I arrived at Misono's house, a Henro House where she hosts pilgrims, she took me in her car to show me the local salt factory. They make 2000 different flavours and it is sold to top chefs for up to 300,000 yen per kilo. It reaches 70 degrees in there in the summer and workers must have a break after 30 minutes.

    Then Misono dropped me off at the Onsen which has water from natural hot and cold springs.

    Everywhere along this coast there are signs to tsunami safe zones on higher ground.

    Misono also does a marvellous home made dinner. I'm here with Brazilians Gilles and Daniela, and Terry from Hong Kong.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    1Misono's table laid for breakfast
    1Misono's table laid for breakfastMisono preparing breakfastDaniela, Gilles, Terry and meCrossing bridge at YasudaFishermanTemple 27Hand washing is at a mountain stream in a steep gardenTemple fishTonight's hostel. Concrete and metal

    Temple 27 - Kochi City

    October 19, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Misono prepared us a delicious breakfast and offered to transport my backpack so I didn't need to carry it up and down the mountain that Temple 27 is on. She is very kind.

    I took a train to Kochi City and EN Hostel (which I don't recommend) for a couple of rest days before flying home.Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Harimaya Bridge, famous since it was in a film called 'The Harimaya Bridge'
    Harimaya Bridge, famous since it was in a film called 'The Harimaya Bridge'At the viewpoint near the temple, building a new observation towerThis is the viewTemple 31 main hallTemple 31 pagodaThe aquarium has a miniature Harimaya BridgeFishEels like pipesStriped fishGlad I fed the turtle with the tongsPenguin feedingAquarium themedKochi CastleBonito Guest House

    Temple 31 - Kochi City

    October 20, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Rest day in Kochi. EN hostel was so awful that I asked to leave and transferred to Bonito Guest House, which is much more comfortable and sociable with its communal kitchen.

    A Kochi tourist bus passes right by Temple 31, then goes to beautiful Katsurahama beach and an aquarium. I also went to Kochi's rebuilt 6-tier 17th century castle. Great fun and lots of information in English.Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    Temple 28, main gate in maple trees
    Temple 28, main gate in maple treesCute offerings at T28Temple 28 main hallMy calligraphy at T28Interlocking cranesMiles of greenhouses for vegetables like auberginesRiceVillage2At Dainishi 's birthdayTemple 29 main gate...where I again met Mayako (on right, in sandals)Rustic signPomelo treeTemple 30...where I again met Karin from DenmarkKarin and I found these carp in a canal in Kochi

    Temples 28-30, Kochi City

    October 21, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    On my last day before travelling to the airport, instead of having another rest day, I went walking.

    At Kochi station in the morning I pressed a black button to open the waiting room door (as I thought) and an alarm went off. Within 5 minutes four train operatives were frantically trying to find the urgent problem. I owned up via Google translate and I wasn't arrested; fortunately I think they found it funny.

    A few kms after Temple 28, a local man accosted me and dragged me into a shrine with a group of villagers. Food - noodle soup and spicy rice with nuts - was pressed upon me. A monk gave a short address and everyone chanted sutras. I tried to join in. I heard from other people that they invited everyone in as it was the birthday of Dainishi, Temple 28's main deity. When I got up to leave I was given a little box of spicy rice.

    It's been pleasantly cool - low 20s - and a beautiful day walking 25km through fields and into Kochi.    Read more

  • Susan WaglandJapan 88 Temples PilgrimageTraveler
    First Cabin hotel
    First Cabin hotelKochi streetcar with children’s superhero AnpanmanAnpan: soft white bread with a sponge cake brimAnpanman was created by a Kochi artistThe bridge to Kanzai airportCapsule hotel accommodation

    Kanzai International Airport, Osaka

    October 22, 2025 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I was beginning to like Kochi City with its birds tweeting in palm trees, painted streetcars and Mont-bell outdoor clothing store, but today I travelled to Osaka's airport.

    At Kochi station I had Anpan, hat bread, for breakfast. While I was waiting for my bus to Osaka, a man gave me a packet of biscuits as osettai. With my Henro hat and bag I still look like a Henro.

    Tonight I'm in First Cabin, a capsule hotel at Osaka Airport. Free use of pyjamas, slippers, shared bathroom and dining area, laundry, a mini-Onsen, and 20 mins walk from Departures. It's excellent.

    All of Kobe to Osaka is continuous conurbation. Osaka is huge. As the bus drove round Osaka Bay we passed offices and apartments, a container port, a ferry port, oil refineries and industrial areas on an elevated expressway, before taking a long bridge to the airport. It's the world's first offshore airport built on a man made island. I was impressed.    Read more