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  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    1
    Day 23

    Santiago

    November 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Some more pics - going backwards.

    It was lovely coming in from Camino Sanabres. Through ordinary suburbs and lovely streets of the old town.

    PS - Added a year later - 18 Nov 2023
    I somehow didn’t journal this day which I spent in Santiago. Here are my memories of this day last year and my reflections that arose as I wrote.

    After a slow start to the morning I went to Ivar’s bag storage to collect a few things (eg. down jacket) from my bag that I had posted to him from Sevilla. Ivar is lovely and we had a nice chat. I sorted out my clothes for the walk to Muxia etc.

    I remember that I went to Mass and really enjoyed it - more than the day before. The sermon was delivered in Spanish but I seemed to understand the intent. Something like - You have walked this pilgrimage, overcome challenges, made discoveries; now as you go home it is the time to digest and embody this experience; to take this presence, essence, courage, strength with you into your daily life.
    As I write this

    . I had a rather unsatisfactory lunch at a place in the little square.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    21
    Day 22

    Day 58 - Santiago - 22.4 km

    November 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Weather: 9 - 15 degrees, another rainy day
    Clothes: The same. It seems that when it was really cold there was virtually no rain and now there is rain it’s not so cold. 🙏.

    The walk
    An early 7.30 am start in the dark. The mind and feelings somewhat wondering and worrying about the usual things.
    I met an Austrian pilgrim who was convinced it would rain. My weather forecast said not. But it did pour down for about an hour or maybe two - I hope he was satisfied. 😂
    For me it cleared up and alternated between clear and light rain. All OK by me and it was warm walking so double OK.
    The countryside was the usual villages, country lanes and back roads. There was more timber harvesting today. Life goes on regardless of how many pilgrims trudge past.
    Arrived at Santiago at 1.30 pm. A lovely last day of Via de la Plata / Sanabres

    Santiago reflections
    Arriving today seems inevitable. I’m not talking about arriving at Santiago. That was always going to happen aside from an unforeseen event.
    But today - 17 November - as being that day, feels inevitable; like no matter what my plans might have been this was always going to be the day. I have tried to ‘stretch out’ the last stages given my flight to Australia isn’t till the end of the month.
    However today is the day. And it has been perfect.
    On my first Camino (Frances) I think I was just in a daze coming into Santiago. On my second Camino I came in from Portugal at dawn when the whole city was still and golden - a wonderful experience - I wanted the walk in to last forever.
    This time I felt like I was in a river of energy that carried me along- no more stops, no more delays, keep going, keep moving. Today was definitely the day.
    As I came through the outskirts and then into the old city the mind was quiet. I really didn’t know what to expect this time and was wondering how it would be. I haven’t had any big insights or spiritual experiences in this Camino. Just me walking one day at a time.
    As I came closer to the cathedral I felt a sweet, golden and peaceful feeling. It was subtle and gentle and words can’t really describe it. But it was there and different from anything that came before in the last 8 weeks.
    Of course another Camino Angel was there to greet me. Lovely young French/Spanish Agnes, who has been at the same albergues for the past week, was also walking in today. When I first saw her in Oseira I was sure I had met her before - on a Camino: but no.
    Today we met at a cafe and then parted. Then as I arrived at the cathedral there she was. Photos were taken and at her initiative we went for our Compostellas. Agnes knew exactly where to go, having walked many Camino’s. She also found the best value hostel close to the Cathedral.
    And she organised to go to the 7.30 pm mass where the countries that the pilgrims come from are announced. One peregrina from Australia. 😄😄😄

    I’ve booked two nights at the hostel and will then start for Muxia. I think I am looking forward to that. My weather anxieties seem to be in check now.

    Look out for the next chapter.

    PS - added a year later
    Agnes, the bicycle guys and another young man and I all went for drinks in the evening at Agnes’s invitation. I was only come for a short while but we all ended up drinking and talking (did we eat?) till after midnight. I discovered that all my fears about being able to do the Via had nothing to do with my age - the young man (whose name I have forgotten) had all the same fears too.
    Needless to say I felt a bit the next day.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 21

    Day 57 - Ponte Ulla - 20.8 km

    November 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Weather: 10 - 15 degrees: rain predicted all day.
    Clothes: the same - it’s not that cold

    Wet weather blues
    I had a pretty good nights sleep last night (but not long enough) in my solo room and softer bed. The municipal albergue beds can be extraordinarily firm, even for me.
    But I woke up feeling blue because of the weather - specifically rain.

    Things are rarely as they seem.
    As it turned out the rain was fine and misty and the temperature was warm. It wasn’t so bad.
    I planned to stop at Dornella and arrived at midday. However the hospitalaro tried to convinced me to do another 8 km to Ponte Ulla. He is having some problems with the heater in the dorm and the temporary gas heater has to be turned off at 9.00 pm. And there is no food at all in Dornella. Dinner is served at the albergue at 8.00 pm - too late for me. It is a lovely albergue in a quiet rural setting but after a rest and further chat I decided to go on.

    Today was a day of small villages, timber plantations and timber harvesting, and again country lanes.
    I got to Ponte Ulla around 3.00 pm and had a rich and filling lentil soup before searching out the albergue.
    I even thought about walking another 4 km to O Outeiro but then decided against it. It’s 20 km to Santiago so it seems I will be there tomorrow - 8 weeks and 2 days.
    The albergue here is fine - a Bar / Restaurant downstairs that opens at 7.00 am. The only down side is my solo room has no window. ☹️☹️☹️ A reminder of my first hostel in Sevilla but this one is half the price.
    However the bed is soft with blankets and sheets and there is a heater that works. I lay down as soon as I got in and fell asleep for an hour. A relaxing and restful evening ahead.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 20

    Fungi of Galicia

    November 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    I saw a lot of different mushrooms over the past couple of weeks. I thought the fungi lovers might enjoy seeing a few.
    Also a nod to my Latvian heritage where mushrooming is a national pastime - even the president goes mushrooming.Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 20

    Day 56 - Silleda - 9 km

    November 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Weather: 9 - 13 degrees; with 70% rain predicted all day
    Clothes: The same but traded short sleeves for long sleeve merino top. Feeling a bit cold and tired today. Changed into short sleeve top as it got warm during the morning.

    The morning
    The night was a bit disrupted with the sound of torrential rain and banging barn doors - and it was still raining when I woke. Oops not good - I was very happy I was only walking 9.5 km today. Then I looked up the weather forecast and it said no rain between 8.30 am and 1.00 pm. Just the window I need. Gratitude abounds 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
    When I got up I noticed that the body was tired and feet a bit sore - just from so many k’s - no blisters or other issues.
    There are three Spanish men here today (and yesterday) with voices that seem to echo and project even when they are talking normally. They were chatting in the kitchen last night and woke me just before 10 pm. It took a long time to get back to sleep so with two nights of short sleep I am also sleepy tired.
    So again happy I am doing a short day today. 💜😀

    The day of bridges
    Apart from the continuing beauty of Galicia this has been a day of bridges - a magnificent new road bridge, an older but still magnificent rail bridge and Ponte Taboada over the river La Deza.
    The Ponte Taboada was a part of the old Roman route north. It has been, and still is part of the pilgrimage route to Santiago. It was rebuilt in the 10th century and has had subsequent renovations.
    The old road and the bridge itself were a delight.
    The sun came out completely as I crossed over the bridge and the sky became blue. Blessings abound.
    I got to Silleda around 11.30 am, had a hot chocolate and went to Albergue Santa Olaia. It’s part of a school and I can hear the kids at play and in class. I have a twin room to myself so I will be able to rest up as much as I want. I think I was the only one in the albergue. It was a bit cold and vast but I had a heater in my room, plenty of blankets and hot showers. What more could I want.
    I’ve been in Spain for so long now that things are beginning to look and feel normal - just in a different language. I will probably have a bit of culture shock when I get home.
    It’s only 40 km to Santiago.

    Burn Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    1
    Day 19

    Day 55 - A Laxa - 31.6 km

    November 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Weather: 6 - 13 degrees. Rain predicted.
    Clothes: Same as yesterday

    Celebration 🎉🎉🙏🌞😄😇🥰😮‍💨🌈💕
    I walked 31 km today with my pack - because there was no accommodation between last night and A Laxe - and with one long and difficult climb this morning. And I’m still standing.

    Inner preparation
    After last nights Vespers it took me a long time to get to sleep and I wondered how the day would go. I gave my self permission to get a taxi if needed but as I left this morning it felt like the body would/ could do this long day. I estimated 10 hours which would give me time for intermittent short breaks and a long lunch break.

    The walk
    I started of with my French companion in the dark (7.30 am) on what turned out to be an extended climb along a rocky and steep water course. I realise now that this could be called a slightly technical climb as I had to constantly look at where I was putting my feet and plan ahead to find the most dry and easiest way up. I have walked (climbed) so many of these now that I sort of know the ropes - or rocks - as it were.
    However this was a long climb in the dark and needed lots of concentration, planning and quick reactions. It was physically and mentally demanding - and tiring. I remembered other times when I wondered if these sorts of challenges would ever end. Now when that thought arose I knew it was pretty silly - this would end - and just kept going. My legs were a bit wobbly towards the final ascent but with a few rests I got to the top.
    We had a wonderful companion for the first 6 km. The huge black dog that belonged to the monastery walked with us. My French amigo said she often had dog companions. She walked on faster than me and told me later that when she got to a particular small village the dog sat and looked at her to see that she was continuing in the correct direction and then turned and headed for home.
    The rest of the day was relatively easy. A few ups but mainly down - and again through the lovely Galician country side.
    The landscape became more open as the day progressed with more villages and settlements along the way. And more cows.
    I had a number of short stops for breakfast, snacks, more coffee and a full lunch at 3 pm.
    I arrived at the albergue at 5.30 pm. My 10 hour estimate was correct. For me eating the right sort of food at the right time is so important. I finished the day tired, but after a shower and a peppermint tea I feel fine. Tomorrow is a short day to give the body time to recover.
    Interestingly I feel like I’m waking up from a long (Camino) dream refreshed and curious about what lies ahead. 🙃🙂😇

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 18

    Monastery Santa Maria la Real de Oseira

    November 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The Santa Maria la Real de Oseira Monastery has a long history. One of the oldest parts of the complex is the Church which is a pilgrimage church. It has a statue of Mary breastfeeding the baby Jesus. While there are other images of the ‘Virgin of the Milk’ this is one of the oldest. The other I have seen was in the convent in Zamora.
    The monks have a history of wine and spirit making as well as essential oils and skin care products. Needless to say some purchases were made but not of the alcoholic type. 🙃
    In the late afternoon we had a tour of the church and monastery - which was all in Spanish. I had a explanatory sheet in English which was enough.
    At 6.30 pm we went to Vespers. It was my first time.
    There was a life size Jesus on the cross at the front of the small chapel. My relationship with that image has changed radically since I went to the exhibition in Zamora. I don’t think I have a name for the feeling I get from that image now - so I won’t try in this short narrative.
    However half way through Vespers the feeling changed to a sense of joy and liberation. As Vespers continued I felt more calm and relaxed.
    One priest said some prayers which were a blessing for pilgrims. 🙏
    There was an item on the alter that looked like a sun on a stand. Towards the end one priest went to a small decorated cupboard at the back and took out a small gold container. Out of that container he took what looked like a white circle and put it in the centre of the ‘sun’ thing. Incense was lit and waved at the ‘sun’. Then the ‘sun’ was made to face everyone in turn. It felt like it was some sort of channel or lens for grace and it certainly gave me a particular and quite powerful sensation. Then there was a short meditation. Of course the monks sat or kneeled perfectly still 😇 while the ‘audience’ rustled and shuffled pretty constantly. 😂
    A very lovely experience that left me indrawn, quiet and relaxed. And with a feeling that all is well.
    A perfect way to end a pretty perfect day.

    Edit: I have since found out that this ceremony is called “Eucharist Adoration” and the ‘sun’ thing is called a monstrance. It really is designed to give one the ‘darshan’ of Christ and that certainly seems to be what happened for me. Wow!

    https://catholicworldmission.org/what-is-a-mons…    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 18

    Day 54 - Oseira & The Monastery - 9.4 km

    November 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Weather: 8 - 18. Rain in the afternoon
    Clothes: Same as yesterday

    Breakfast
    I have definitely become the older more self indulgent pilgrim. While others are saving money and having breakfast at the albergue, I have found out what time the local Bars are open so I can sit quietly and have my morning coffee and toast (with banana).
    This morning I was in what can only be called a cute and funky cafe with two (literally) stuffed people at the door. I keep thinking they are real. My grandé coffee is huge and as well as toast I got two pieces of the best yummy cake.
    With only 8.5 km to walk this morning I started slow and relaxed. I notice that while the 20+ km days are totally doable now, they do take it out of me and the body wants to take it easy the next day.

    The walk
    What can I say? Another beautiful sunny morning in beautiful Galicia. Walking along forest pathways covered in autumn leaves, walking up what seem like small creeks at times (What happens in the rain?) past villages and up to the tops of the hills which give a more open and rocky outlook.
    I looked back and saw distant high mountains - hard to believe I came from way over the other side of these.
    And ahead the road cresting a hill to the unknown - but these days a happily anticipated other side.
    I stopped for a hot chocolate at the 6 km mark and had a lovely stroll into Oseira.

    The destination
    The first view of the monastery was impressive - it just appeared from behind the trees, huge and significant.
    The albergue is stunning - completed this year and imbued with the peace of the monastery and this little town in general. The design of the albergue is superb - spacious, elegant, warm and welcoming. Apart from the bunk beds it could be a simple boutique hotel.
    So much has changed since my first Camino in 2007. Then I had a very tiny mobile phone for texts and calls, a guide book, unreliable showers, only occasional washing machines, and virtually completely reliance on the yellow arrows to find the way.

    The afternoon
    I arrived around 11.30 am so it’s virtually another day off. But not as busy as my day on Ourense 😮‍💨
    Time for self care, grooming, washing and drying, relaxing, snoozing, eating, until we can tour the monastery at 4.00 pm.
    Lunch at the local cafe - expensive but I understand in this tiny town it would be - and I am told the chef is really good.
    I ordered a cod fish omelette- it sounds better in Spanish - Tortilla Bacalou. The chef asked if I want it medium or rare. I remembered that lovely soft scrambled egg and tortilla I had a few days ago. I told him to choose - he was the chef. The omelette was huge and filling and delicious. Enough to set me up for my afternoon nap.

    I’ll put the actual Monastery tour in a separate post.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    1
    Day 17

    Day 53 - Cea - 25 km

    November 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Weather: 7 - 22 and sunny
    Clothes: short sleeve merino top, lightweight fleece, rain jacket, trek pants. The jacket and fleece came off as the day progressed.

    The day
    A cup of tea with breakfast at the hostel and a coffee soon after in a Bar got me going for the walk out of Ourense and the long slow climb out of the valley.
    Today was mainly along village roads and tracks with plenty of variety and interest. I stopped often and snacked on food in my pack. A lovely warm and sunny day.
    I stopped for another ‘poco’ coffee at the half way point but it seemed too early for lunch. Then there were villages but no Bars for a long time till I finally struggled into the Bar at Biduedo - not that far from Cea. I asked for food and was offered some cold beef and chips - I was so hungry that it all tasted most delicious. Yum!! And gave me the energy for the last few kms.
    The Albergue is in a quaint old building at the start of the town. Time for a shower and trip to the shop for a bit of dinner and snacks for tomorrow.

    Reflection
    I notice today as the km countdown continues - only some 80 km to go - a feeling of joy and happiness arose. I think I better understand the feelings of sadness that have been with me over the past week or so - perhaps a normal grieving process about many things including the end of this Camino.
    Walking Camino gives you the opportunity to reflect on and let go of many known and unknown burdens - some feather light and some much heavier.
    These past few days I have often had the feeling that I have left something behind - and it feels like I have.
    I am looking forward to discovering what these last days have in store for me.

    Buen Camino    Read more

  • TravelerCamino Sanabrés
    Day 16

    Day 52 - A Day in Ourense-Magosto Fiesta

    November 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Weather: 9 - 21 and sunny 🌞
    Feels like I have had a short winter and am back in Spring. 🙏🙏🙏

    The unfolding of an interesting day.
    At breakfast I started having a conversation with my roommate, Rebecca - although I didn’t ask her name till much later. Rebecca was having a day and night In Ourense before going to a yoga weekend in a nearby town. We chatted for a long time and the outcome was that we had a lovely day together.
    The Cathedral
    We started to head for the Tourist Information Centre but got sidetracked by the cathedral which was open and getting ready for a service associated with today’s Chestnut Fiesta. We looked and sat for quite a while - it was beautiful with good energy - and then continued on - but after getting all the info at the Tourist Centre we somehow ended up back at the cathedral where the service was about to begin.
    Of course now we stayed for the religious celebrations. The cathedral was full with lots of VIP types in the front rows. The ceremonies began with a procession of Galician bagpipers followed by men in white carrying a sacred statue. There was beautiful singing - choir and solo. It was an uplifting and interesting experience and in some ways reminded me of India where they also parade statues of great beings and sing and chant.
    We left when the speeches started because I couldn’t understand any of what they said.
    The service left us with a calm and uplifted feeling ready for the next event.

    Next the thermal pools
    By that time Rebecca had decided she wanted to stay in Ourense a bit longer than planned and wanted to revisit the thermal pools. She had been yesterday. So we hopped in her car and off we went. I felt very grateful because otherwise it would mean me deciphering the public transport or doing the 60 minute walk.
    We went to the ‘private’ pool - Outariz Thermal Station - which has a Japanese theme: lots of pools of different temperatures, pools with spa jets, cold pools to alternate with the hot, gentle music playing and notices encouraging silence and reflection. It took a while for me to relax into the experience but when I did it was blissful. I only got out when the body said that was enough for one day. If I lived in Ourense the ‘terma’ would be a regular event. For €5.70 you get a locker and two hours of bliss. Sorry no photos allowed. But I did take one of the public pool.
    https://www.turismodeourense.gal/en/recurso/est…

    The food expo came next
    This was a bit out of town - where we hoped to get something to eat. A bit of a disappointment in that the three course meals were between €30 and €60 but with pretty incredible menus. We had a look around and snacked on the free food. From what she shared, Rebecca seemed to be a bit of a foodie. She knew what foods were specialities in which areas and towns. Somehow I felt guilty taking the free food when I was never going to buy anything. But it was interesting to see the focus on good food in Galicia - and it shows in the meals I have had so far.
    Rebecca had a phone meeting so I had time to do a bit of journaling before we headed back to town.

    The Magosta Fiesta
    At 6 pm there was a concert and free roasted chestnuts in the Plaza Major. We got there a little before 6 and with Rebecca’s bold youth we quietly jumped the already huge queue to get our cone of chestnuts. She had to head off quickly and I had come all the way from Australia so I didn’t feel too bad about our bold move. The Spanish wait very patiently and when I left around 6.45 there was a queue around the corner and up the street.
    There was all sorts of local music and people dressed up as well-known traditional characters- with giant heads. It was great fun.
    The chestnuts were a bit of a disappointment - not so fresh - not as good as the ones the Korean girl roasted a few night ago. Nevertheless I had participated in the Magosta Fiestal and was very happy that I had participated in the free chestnut experience and heard some of the local music.
    However … on the way back to the hostel I chomped a chestnut on my sensitive tooth. It was very painful and I became grumpy and impatient with every one and everything. I remembered a saying of one of my teachers - trying to get pleasure from the world brings pounds of pain. Even though I had a lovely day I was reminded that all joy and happiness resides within.

    Buen Camino

    PS: After a good sleep, meditation and reflection, the next morning looked bright and cheerful again.

    Hostel Grelo
    Both the hospitalaros here speak English which is such a bonus for us Spanish deficient pilgrims. 😄
    The building is just on the edge of the old town and has three dorms. I think there are 6 of us here and spread out through the dorms so we are not in top of each other. There is a kitchen and lounge area. For €15 you get sheets, blankets (although I still used my sleeping bag/blanket as their blankets are a bit thin) and a towel and breakfast included. In Spain that is always toast or light pastry and coffee/ teas etc. because most people have eaten a big meal at 8.30 pm or later.    Read more

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