• Whirling Dervishes, Istanbul, Turkey

    22. huhtikuuta 2023, Turkki ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This isn't going to be a very photograph oriented post. We want to observe a Whirling Dervish ceremony today. We were asked to not taste any or video during the ceremony, so out of respect, we did not. They did have a decent exhibit on the ceremony, so we did walk away with a better understanding of this tradition.

    First off, the Whirling Dervish ceremony is not a dance, it's a religious ceremony of the Sufism sect of Islam. Specifically, a subsect of Sufism called Mevlevi Order. Sufism focuses on more mystical religious practice and is practiced by both Sunni and Shia Muslims. This also made our attendance a little awkward as we were basically paying admittance to watch people pray. But hey, tourists gonna do what they gonna do.

    The Mevlevi Order is chiefly inspired by the teachings of the poet Jalāl al-Dīn Muḥammad Rūmī (Rūmī for short). His teachings "insist" that love is central to Islam and emphasised "developing courtesy and mindfulness" (according to Wikipedia). Rūmī also "complained about the fanatic ideas appended into Islam" (according to a pamphlet given to us at the Whirling Dervish Ceremony). He was born in 1207, and I'm no religious scholar, so I don't know what he was referring to way back then.

    The ceremony opened with a musical portion with chanters, drums, a flute, a lute, and a horizontal plucking guitar thingy (I'm also not a music scholar). After that, the Whirling began. To over simplify it, the "performers" whirled about 5 times over the course of the 1 hour ceremony, with a break between each session. They set-up with 4 on the outside, with 1 in the center on a circular stage. Except the last time, where all 5 whirled on the outside. Each "session" signified a different "meditation," for lack of a better word. It was interesting to see.
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  • Basilica Cistern, Istanbul, Turkey

    20. huhtikuuta 2023, Turkki ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The Basilica Cistern is the largest and most grand known Cistern sitting below Istanbul. It is so named because it was originally built between the 3rd and 4th centuries as part of the construction of a Basilica that no longer stands. The cistern is 453 ft and 213 ft with 30 ft columns. It is capable of holding 2,800,000 cu ft of water.

    Speaking of columns, the cistern has 336 columns, some of which are uniquely decorated. Two have large marble medusa heads at the bottom and another is decorated with a "tear drop" pattern. The Cistern today is home to a few art installations. So when you watch the video, don't think the Byzantines were projecting an animated tree on the wall

    It's amazing the cistern was so ornate. It's effectively a water well that few probably went into the depths of. It was a beautiful sight.
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  • Hagia Sophia, Istanbul, Turkey

    19. huhtikuuta 2023, Turkki ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Hagia Sophia is a grand mosque in Istanbul. It is also known as being built as a Basilica during the time of Constantine the Great. The original building was constructed in 325 and was consecrated in 360.

    The Hagia Sophia was actually destroyed twice. First by a fire caused by a riot in 404 (after which, Hagia Sophia NOT FOUND). It was rebuilt in 415. It was then burned again during the Nika insurrection in 532. The third church, as it is today, was completed in 537.

    Originally, the Byzantines used the Hague Sophia as a Coronation Hall. There is still a mark on the floor where Coronation would happen (there is a picture of it below).

    If you get to go, I find this to be a useful floor plan to understand the Mosque.
    https://commons.m.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Aya_S…
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  • Paphos, Cyprus

    17. huhtikuuta 2023, Kypros ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

    Paphos, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a city in south western Cyprus. Since we already covered the UNESCO Antiquity site in the last post we'll try to talk a bit more about the rest. It's a very mixed cultural country. The primary language is Greek and they use the Greek alphabet (making us illiterate in yet another country). However, it was also a British colony from 1878 till 1960. As a result, they have British outlets and drive on the wrong side of the road. The northern half of cyprus 5 is also occupied by Turkey with a UN controlled demilitarized zone.

    Generally, Paphos is a typical beach town. The water front is lined with bars and restaurants. All you stroll the harbor you'll hear as many British accents as you do Greek. Some restaurants feature nightly traditional Cypriot dances to entertain tourists. Another hallmark of the island are cats! Paphos was particularly well stocked though and they often walk around inside of restaurants as well. This is probably a remnant of Ottoman rule on the island.

    Inland, you'd be hard pressed to tell a picture of Cyprus apart from Tuscany in Italy or Andalusia in Spain. Vineyards, Olive groves, and Cyprus trees stretch mountainous landscapes. Homes with a water view can fetch 4-7 million (or so we were told).

    A lot of Greek style food can be seen here. Skewered meats, baked lamb, whole fish, and stuffed grape leaves are seen on the menu in many traditional restaurants.
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  • Kato Pafos Archaeological Park, Cyprus

    15. huhtikuuta 2023, Kypros ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today we visited Archaeological Park of Kato Pafos (or Paphos, they seem to be fluid about the spelling of that "f" sound). The site is huge for an open air museum at about 50 acres. Big parts of it are still open fields that beg the question of what may still be yet to be uncovered.

    It seems the hallmark of this park is its well preserved mosaic floors. We've seen a lot of ancient mosaics on this trip, but these are the most beautiful and intricate we've seen. I feel like the pictures did not do them justice.

    The age of the site is generally between the 4th to 2nd century BC. Cyprus was quite prosperous at that time as it had large lines of copper when the rest of the nearby Mediterranean was going through the Bronze Age (copper is needed to make bronze). It started to become a major port and taxed the goods that came through it.
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  • Bethlehem, Palestine

    12. huhtikuuta 2023, Palestiina ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    You know all those stories about how dangerous and scary the "West Bank" in the Middle East is?

    ... yeah, we went there.

    Bethlehem, yeah that Bethlehem, is a holy site of huge significance to Christians. Tradition dictates it is the birth the place of Jesus of Nazareth. While in Israel we becme very familiar with the phrase, "according to tradition." It's the generally accepted way of saying, according to [insert holy book of faith here]. Whether it be the Torah, New Testament, Koran or any other ancient book of faith. Despite that, according to... our tour guide, the major attraction of Bethlehem, The Church of the Nativity, is a little different. Apparently, the site of the Nativity was actually given to us by Mary. At some point in her life she "pointed it out" to everyone.

    Back in the day, sheppards built mangers in caves to help protect the livestock from the elements and predators. So the site of the nativity is a cave below the Church. This site was converted into a place of worship in 135 AD by Roman Emperor Hadrian. So it's actually a little more "official" than the sites in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre as less time had passed . Like many Christian sites, Constantine's mother Helena created a Basilica on the site around 330 AD. According to our guide, the front of the church had a mural of the three wise men, that can no longer be seen. When the Ottomans occupied the area they destroyed many churches in the region. However, when they saw this site and saw the depiction of three men who, "looked like them," they left the site alone. This makes it one of the oldest churches in the world.

    There was another interesting holy site we visited this day, which is a cave called the Milk Grotto. According to tradition (...yeah), while nursing baby Jesus in this cave, a drop of Mary's milk spilled on the floor turning the entire cave white. There are stories of women having trouble conceiving, scratch off some of the sides of the cave and ingesting it and then being able to get pregnant afterwards.

    It was amazing to see a place that we've heard so much about. Today Bethlehem was a well developed city, much like any other and full of Palestinian Christians.
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  • Jerusalem, Israel

    11. huhtikuuta 2023, Israel ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Jerusalem is a complicated city. We knew this before coming here, but it's still more complicated than we expected. It didn't help that within a week before our visit, tensions started flaring. A raid on an ultra-sared Mosque, Al-Aqsa, caused rocket attacks on Israel for the first time in 10 years. Also four deaths from terror attacks in fairly close proximity (one in Tel Aviv and a family of 3 killed near northern Jordan in the West Bank).

    Jerusalem's old town, is divided into 4 quarters. Christian, Muslim, Jewish, and Armenian Christians (mentioned in a previous post). We did not venture into the Muslim quarter much because of high tensions during the week we were there. Our visit coincided with Muslim Ramadan, Jewish Passover, and Christian Easter. This was part of the reason for elevated tensions. We are really good at timing things.

    The most complicated site in the city has to be Temple Mount as it is important to all of the 3 religions that dominate the city. First, Temple Mount is where Abraham, was asked to sacrifice his son to God. Jews, Christians, and Muslims all believe in this event, and believe it happened on Temple Mount. Second, King Solomon built a temple around this site. It is considered to be the Holiest site of Judaism. The famous Western Wall or Wailing Wall is the only thing that remains of this temple. Thirdly, Temple Mount, is the site where the Muslim prophet Muhammad ascended into heaven in 621 AD. This makes it the 3rd holiest site in Islam. Today, Muslims control the top of Temple Mount. Built on top of it are the Al-Aqsa Mosque and the shrine of the Dome of the Rock. Israeli forces handle security checkpoints before entering the area, but Jordanian religious authority Waqf controls the site itself. The Jewish population has been able to create a small sanctuary up there. Some of the conservative Jewish population has done up to start praying for God to command them to create a 3rd Temple on this hill. This would probably cause serious disruption to, if not involving destroying the Muslims sites already there. This is often a source of conflict between Israelis and Muslims primarily from Palestine and Jordan, but from other neighboring states as well.

    Besides all that, in certain parts you'd never know there was a conflict at all. Our AirBnB was in a Jewish neighborhood and it was often a party with shops and traditional Jewish music playing at night.
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  • Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Jerusalem

    8. huhtikuuta 2023, Palestiina ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is the single holiest site in the world to many Christians. Religious tradition states it contains within it 3 sacred events in the death of Jesus. The site where his cross was set in the ground, the slab where he was anointed for burial, and the cave where Jesus was entombed before his ascension. The church was originally built by, Helena, the mother of the Holy Roman Emperor Constantine, in 335 AD.

    Today, the Holy Sepulchre is a complicated church. The church is divided among 6 religious groups. Catholics, Orthodox, Armenians (more on them below), Copts (Orthodox Christians from Egypt & Sudan, primarily), Ethiopians, and Syrian Jacobites. Each group had their own traditions and calendars. Given that we were there on Catholic Easter, it was also very eventful. You can see one priest running around cleansing the church with incense, and another of a different faith running around with bells to do the same.

    The worst of it is that these Christians don't trust eachother. The church has 1 set of keys and no one trusted the other to hold the keys. A compromise was reached when 2 local muslim families were given they keys. One opens the church everyday and gives the keys to the second family who will then close the church that evening. They consider it a great honor, but it does seem like a bit of a failure of harmony.

    Now I have to admit, I hadn't heard much about Armenian Christians in my life before visiting Jerusalem. Not only do they have a large portion our this church, but they have a quarter or district within Jerusalem. Their status, comes from the fact that Armenia was the first state to adopt Christianity as an official religion in 301 AD. This was because 2 apostles Bartholomew and Thaddeus, came to Armenia following Jesus death to spread religion.

    Now to top it all off, Protestants don't recognize The Church of the Holy Sepulchre as the correct burial site. They instead, believe it to be The Garden Tomb, about 1 km north. This is assuming the real tomb is still accessible as Jerusalem had been besieged 23 times and completely destroyed twice. So who knows.

    If you're interested in more details on the church and seeing a map showing "ownership" of parts of the church see the link below.
    https://www.206tours.com/cms/blog/inside-holy-s…
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  • Food of Bulgaria

    4. huhtikuuta 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Bulgarian food is delicious and very unique. It features many vegetables especislly red pepers and dips mostly containing yogurt or cheese. Their bread is very doughy and heavy but also delicious. Main entrees are mostly meat dishes in the heartland featuring pork, lamb, beef, chicken and rabbit.

    Common bread is served with Sharena Sol a spice mix consisting of Savory, paprika, salt and sometimes ferrugreek. It is delicious on bread.

    The wine of bulgaria is very good. It features a handful of native grapes to bulgaria, as well as Merlot and Cab Sav. Wine here is mostly medium to heavy bodies reds that range from dry to sweet.
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  • Plovdiv, Bulgaria

    4. huhtikuuta 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Plovdiv Bulgaria is an obscure little town in the middle of Bulgaria with a population of 330,000. Although many have not heard of it, it is the oldest continuously inhabited city in all of Europe starting from around 6000 BC. Although Matera, Italy is thought to be older, it is not known for certain.

    Plovdiv is very multifaceted from a tourism stand point. The "Old Town" is full of beautifully painted traditional buildings from the 1800s filled with craft shops and restaurants. The new town is a mix of communism concrete towers and newer trendy shopping plazas. The downtown is full of excavated Roman ruins from antiquity. The most amazing of which is the Ancient Stadium of Philipopolis. While only a small portion can be seen today, a nearby model reminds you the whole thing is longer than two NFL fields (250m) and could hold 30k spectators.
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  • Rila Monastery, Kiustendil, Bulgaria

    2. huhtikuuta 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Rila Monastery is the largest and most famous Orthodox Monastery in Bulgaria. Founded by Ivan of Rila, and is situated in the Rila Mountains, in the Rila Monastery Nature Park, along the Rila River. Getting to go was a big... th-Rila for us.

    This site was one of our main reasons for coming to Bulgaria. This UNESCO World Heritage site is one of the prettiest Orthodox Religious buildings in the world. Located 2 hours south of Sofia, it wasn't that hard to get to, but it was worth the trip. It's still an active Monastery, but is nowhere near the 500 monk capacity it once held. Today it is a pilgrimage site for Orthodox Christians.

    Founded in the 10th century, the frescoes are continuously renovated to keep them from deteriorating. Although, as we've seen with most Orthodox buildings, the frescos inside are covered by a layer of ash from the constant lighting of candles by visitors. In fact we observed there was one guy whose job it was to keep throwing out candles that had melted down. There were so many visitors, he was frantically doing a circle around the interior with wax covered fingers.

    We were not supposed to take pictures inside but we did sneak a few. I also took a picture of a postcard showing the interior for posterity.
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  • Sofia, Bulgaria

    1. huhtikuuta 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Sofia is the capital city of Bulgaria and was founded 7000B.C by the Thracian tribes. Since then it was ruled and occupied by many different superpowers, including the Romans and the Ottomans. In fact many Roman ruins sit directly under the center of Sofia. As they build subways and hotels they continue to discover ancient ruins. As was the case of the Arena Sofia hotel which began construction in 2004 only to find a Roman Amphitheater about 15 feet underground.

    Bulgaria has had a diverse political situation. They were once the republic of Bulgaria which gave way to the Ottoman invasion and occupation up to the 19th century. The Russians helped Bulgaria win their independence from the Ottomans in the early 20th century. From there Bulgaria was Communist for over 45 years from 1946 to 1990 when they won their independence and are now a democracy. Today the country still has a pro-Putin political party, a pro socialist party, and an ethnic Turkish party. Those 3 make up about 40% of the votes in the last election, which happened during our stay in Sofia. They are soundly in the minority as other 2 main parties got about 50% of the votes together.

    We took a very interesting Communist tour in Sofia where our guide pointed out historical sites and people of impact. When we landed in Sofia we were not sure what to expect. We knew very little about the city and country outside of our experience last year visiting northern Bulgaria. Bulgaria is supposedly one of the poorest countries in Europe and yet prices for restaurants and groceries remain relatively high compared to the rest of Europe. To provide an example restaurants averaged the same cost as Italy, groceries are cheaper in Germany a much more developed nation than Bulgaria. This is due to political instability, corruption, inflation, logistical issues and proximity to the war in Ukraine. However one thing is for certain,

    Sofia is a beautiful city with a population of 1.2 million. We were a bit caught off guard at its beauty. They have numerous parks throughout Central Sofia, grand buildings from the early and late 1900s, very little tourism from outside their nation, and beautiful street art, that give this city a relaxed yet grand feeling. It was lovely and perhaps one of our favorite cities of the Balkans. Sofia has also been known for centuries as having "yellow brick roads" for streets.
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  • Saint Sofia church, Sofia Bulgaria

    31. maaliskuuta 2023, Bulgaria ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    St Sophia Church is one of few preserved Christian basilicas in Bulgaria.
    The church was built in the 6th century on the site of several earlier churches predating it from the 4th century. After the occupation by the Ottomans in the 14th century it was rebuilt to include a minerat as it was converted into a mosque. During the earthquakes of 1818 and 1858 the minerat fell killing the imams son. That was seen as a bad omen and it was soon after abandoned.
    Today it serves as one of the oldest and most valuable historical sites of Sofia from the Roman period. It is located in the centre of the holiest place of the centuries old city, the "Serdika Necropolis". Beneath the church itself lies the archeological level showing the remains of ancient mosaics and previous foundations and burial areas from the 4th century.

    On a side note Serdica was the ancient name given to Sofia, Bulgaria. Bulgaria is one of the oldest countries in Europe and the city of Sofia or Serdica as it once was known as predates the Romans. The name comes from the celtic tribe that called this area Serdi. Neolithic burials were found before that up until 6000 BC. It was even said that Constantine the Great loved Serdica so much that he was considering making it the capital of his empire before settling on Constantinople now modern day Istanbul. For more info in Serdica see here; https://slowtravelblog.com/serdica-lost-city/
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  • Marrakesh, Morocco

    26. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Marrakech, like many of the major cities, we once the capital of Morocco. It was the capital at its founding in 1070. Fes became the capital in the 13th century, but Marrakech regained capital status again in the 16th century. The current capital in Rabat.

    The main attraction in Marrakesh is the Jemaa el-Fnaa or the Main Square of the Medina. It is still as you might have seen in movies or videos. There are cobra charmers, monkeys on leashes which may steal your hat for fun, and today there are juice vendors galore. It is lively, but a bit touristy.

    As a bit of an "whoopsie" on our part our arrival in Marrakesh was also the day before Ramadan started. Luckily, we found a really good restaurant open for breakfast in our neighborhood of Sidi Mimmoun. Lunch proved a bit harder some days, and dinner after sundown got crowded.

    Fun fact, the Berbers, who inhabited Morocco before the "Arabs" called Marrakech "ⵎⵕⵕⴰⴽⵛ". While we don't know how to pronounce it, we can tell you the Berber people's language is MUCH easier to pronounce than Arabic. We just can't read their alphabet.
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  • Cats of Morocco

    26. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    In Muslim culture, cats are considered the only "clean" animal and are thus usually welcomed all throughout their cities. They are also the only predominate animal welcomed in homes and buildings around Morocco. Dogs are seen as unclean and they are therefor outdoor animals. There are a lot of cats. We've seen this in the former Yugoslavia, and now in Morocco. Here is a collection of our favorite felines.Lue lisää

  • Food of Morocco

    26. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Food of Morocco is delicious, but not the most diverse.

    It is made famous by Tajine, which is the primary dish you'll find in any restaurant. We also took a cooking class for this. Tajine isn't actually a "dish" it's a ceramic pot that was originally part of Berber culture but can now be found across North Africa and the Middle East due to their heavy cultural integration. Tagine can contain chicken, beef, lamb or fish. It usually also contains 7 different vegetables, but we did also get vege-less tagline in our travels.

    Beyond that, the other common dish you'll see on menus is Couscous. This is VERY similar to Tagine, but on a bed couscous. It can be really filling. Dave was actually really loving the couscous dish because it is such a balanced meal and as we travel, that hasn't always been easy.

    Breakfasts were very bread heavy. We were often given the choice of 3 or 4 different types of bread (all at once) with different condiments. Those included "Khobz," a half leavened bread disk that is crunchy on the outside and fluffy inside. Also, "Meloui" which I've also seen called a "Moroccan Crepe" and it is just that. It doesn't have any filling though. "Harcha" is kind of like a cornbread biscuit. The last one I'll mention is Beghrir, which are basically pancakes.

    Common condiments are olive oil, honey, & fresh jams. Dave's favorite was Amlou. We heard someone call it Moroccan Nutella, but I think that is selling it short. It's effectively a nut butter with argan oil, almonds and honey. I didn't know argan was edible and thought it was primarily used in cosmetics.

    You can actually find eggs for breakfast if you want. One of our favorite breakfasts dishes was Fassi (see picture), eggs in a cast iron pan, with Khlea (cured beef). It's pretty good and we'd recommend it.

    Restaurants aside, we have to talk about the markets or souks. There you can find vendors with piles of spices or olives or sweets. Massive fish markets and the occasional squak of a chicken meeting it's end. Traveling around souks are a sight to behold. The one in Fes in particular is amazing, but we didn't get many pictures.
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  • Sahara Desert, Morocco

    25. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We had the wonderful experience of doing a three day tour through Southern Morocco which concluded with a stay out in the tip of the Sahara desert, this area known as Erg Chebbi. Our Berber guides took us through a sunset tour on camels followed by dinner and traditional Berber music and dancing around the campfire. We concluded the evening star gazing and sleeping out in the desert tents. It was a once in a lifetime experience and something we will never forget.

    Also, when we were star gazing, Dave tried to take a picture of the stars. He took a picture that seems, almost too good to be true. We wonder if there was sand on the camera lens, but we can't confirm or deny either theory. Dave tried like 20 times to replicate the picture, but could not.

    High res photo.
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/QZQAAM8eUu1bP4ex9

    Just as an FYI we have been pretty sparse on the photos of us in Morocco for two reasons:
    1. In the medina and souks it's very common practice to have locals expect a little bit of money if they are in the photos. Morocco is busy so often photos have many people.
    2. More importantly it is very frowned upon for Muslim women to have their photo taken. Morocco is 90% muslim. Many do not prefer this or are very adamant against it. We obviously try to be as respectful as possible to different cultures and religions as we travel. Out in the desert though it was pictures galore.
    3. We met a lot of great people on this trip! We got along very well with them. We did a contact exchange and were able to do a photo swap with them. This actually gave us access to pictures of ourselves. It was hard to take our own pictures on camels we could neither stop or dismount without our guide, Abdul's, commands. We were the oldest of the group, so we appreciated the inclusions and sending photos to the "old couple."
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  • Todra Gorge, Morocco

    25. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We stopped at Todra River and Gorge in the town of Ait Seguenouny to explore the area and see how the Berber tribes live and cultivate their land. Despite the very arrid climate, the river valley was home to olives, dates, figs, peaches, almonds, and alfalfa (mainly to feed livestock). We got a very detailed walk through of how they hand make their carpets, cultivate and irrigate their land and a little more insight into their culture.Lue lisää

  • Ait Ben Haddou, Morocco UNESCO & movies

    24. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    While setting up our base in Marrakech, we took a 3 day tour out east. Our first major stop was a town we've all seen, but never heard of, Ksar Ait Ben Haddou. Ait Ben Haddou is a Berber village and UNESCO Heritage site that has been used as a movie set for decades. Movies filmed here include Lawrence of Arabia (1962), Indiana Jones: Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981), Jewel of the Nile (1985), The Mummy (1999), Gladiator (2000), Game of Thrones (3rd season in 2013) and they are currently building an arena to film Gladiator 2 staring Russell Crows son.

    Given it's a Berber village, our tour was guided by a local Berber man named Abdil. Abdil also tries out to be an extra in movies. He got to be one of the 4 men who got to triumphantly lift Daenerys Targaryen after she freed the slaves of the city. He promised us autographs we never got (jk).

    Only 5 families currently live in the old town. Wikipedia states that none of the buildings in the village believed to be built prior to the 17th century. Despite this, the old town was created with centuries old Berber construction methods and that is a big part of its appeal. The plaster on the outside needs to be constantly replaced because rain followed by heat can cause cracking in the sides.

    The river between the new and old town is also naturally salty due to mineral salt in the land. That means they have to walk 3 km to get water from another natural spring. Color commentary: we were here in mid March and it was almost 80°F and sunny. I'll leave the rest to the imagination.

    Our guide Abdil taught us some of the Berber language which, after Arabic, proved very easy. Azun (with a slight l sound on the n) is hello. Many Berbers in the desert wear blue head wrappings and the Spanish word for Blue is "Azule" (coincidentally?). That helps us remember how to say hello to the "blue men" as they are sometimes called.

    To use that as a segue, their head scarfs are dyed with natural "indigo" stone mined locally. The dye helps keep them cool in the desert and doesn't run when you sweat as modern synthetic blue dyes can (as we were told).

    Ten-milt (is how I would spell "thank you" in Berber) for reading.
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  • Traveling through Morocco

    24. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    As Americans if we were pressed to describe what we thought Morocco looked like we'd probably have to assume a lot of desert and brown buildings with wild markets and cobras in baskets. While all of those things exist inside Morocco we were struck with how lush and green much of it was. The countryside is littered with olive groves, alfalfa fields, palm date tree forests and much more. To support much of this, I read Morocco has the world's largest desalination plant to supply drinking water, while natural sources are diverted to crops. Morocco also offers skiing in the Atlas mountains

    While we did make a tour out to the Sahara, it's really a small part of what Morocco is all about.
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  • Fes, Morocco

    19. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Welcome to Fes. Founded in the 9th Century, it is a former capital of Morocco and a current capital of hand crafted goods and food.

    When coming to Fes, there are two main attractions.

    -The Medina-
    The Medina of Fes was founded in the 9th Century, but reached its heights in the 13th–14th Centuries when Fes was the capital of Morocco. It has 9454 cobbled alleyways and 300 mosques. It's footprint is an intimidating 540 acres. Walking the medina it's clear why Fes is the Morocco capital of handicrafts and cuisine.

    The Medina is pretty well organized. It has many "districts" centralized around a particular craft. We wandered through woodworking souks, leather working souks, wedding and dresses souks, sweets souks, spice and systemic souls, metal working souks (with bronze on one side and copper crafts on the other) and more. Walking the alleyways, you'll get merchants presenting you their wares with loud squaks of chickens meeting their end nearby. It's definitely a place that needs a guide as getting lost would be all too easy and stories of getting miffed in dead ends are all too common online.

    Still it's an amazing place and coming from a country where trade skills are all but gone it gives you plenty to ponder.

    We don't have many pictures from the Medina. Many vendors ask for a few coins for getting their picture taken. While it's not much, it can add up and depends on the number of coins in your pocket at that time.

    -Chouara Tanneries-
    The second main attraction is the leather tannery. Everything we saw online did not prepare me for the sheer size and impressiveness of the tannery. There are many tanneries in Fes but this one is known for its size and made famous by the leather good store that has a terrace overlooking the tannery. The actual age of the tannery is not known, but there is a clear documentation of another tannery in Fes placing it in existence in the early 12th century. Other than that, no dates are known. Leather is obtained from local butchers. Hides of cows, sheep, goats, and camels are brought here to be conditioned and dyed.

    The first stage is conditioning which is done in the "white wash" vats on the left of our pictures. The mixture is made from cow urine, pigeon feces, quicklime, salt, and water. The urine and pigeon feces are used as natural sources of ammonia and the process has done unchanged for hundreds of years. Modern commercial tanners use industrial ammonia (as we were told) that requires the use of face masks. Fes tanners don't require any face masks (I'll leave that open to interpretation). Hides are left in the white baths for 2-3 days! This gets the hides ready for dying and removes the hair.

    After that, the larger is dyed in the colored vats on the right. Natural colors are used "such as poppy for red, indigo for blue, and henna for orange" (from Wikipedia). Side note, apparently henna isn't just a hand decoration, it's a plant. The leather is then hung put to dry in the sun. Summers in Fes can get up to +40°C or 104°F so I imagine they dry pretty quickly.

    Because FindPenguins does compress and degrade our pictures a bit the below link is the full quality picture of the Chouara Tanneries. Notice all the leather drying on the walls on the right and elsewhere in the background. It was an amazingly impressive operation.
    High res photo
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/gLhAZJjmisKbUEWE6
    Panorama
    https://photos.app.goo.gl/a1LU311iPgtcH3FU8
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  • Volubilis, Morocco

    18. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Volubilis was first founded as in the 3rd century BC. At that time it was a Berber settlement, but traces of it becoming a proto-Carthaginian settlement have been found as well. From the 1st century AD onwards it was a thriving Roman city. It fell to local tribes in 285 and was abandoned.

    The founder of the Moroccan Idrisid dynasty, Idris ibn Abdallah did settle here in the 11th century, but then moved to the more defensible city Moulay Idriss Zerhoun nearby (see other post on that city).

    The ruins were largely intact until an Earthquake in the mid-18th century. The wealth from olive production caused many houses to be decorated with fancy mosaic floors that can still be found today.
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  • Moulay Idriss Zerhoun, Morocco

    18. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The small town of Moulay Idriss is in the central north of Morocco and is one of the holiest places in the country. The reason this town is so sacred for the Moroccans is because this is where their islamic kingdom effectively began. The man who the town is named after, Moulay Idriss, arrived here in 789 and brought Islam with him. Today it serves as a destination for pilgrimage in the country. The town itself sits on two hills and has a main plaza situated centrally along with a grand mosque which houses the remains of Moulay Idriss himself. We took in qaiohwa k-hela (black coffee in darija arabic as best as we can spell with english pronunciation) at one of the many cafes and watched the bustle of the market and street. The surrounding countryside is lush and green with rolling valleys, beautiful views and ancient remains.

    As non-muslims, we were not able to enter the sacred mosque. However, someone else on our tour took a video when they went to go pray and they were nice enough to share it with us.
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  • Chefchaouen, Morocco

    15. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Chefchaouen was originally formed as a fortified city to protect against Portuguese invaders who had invaded north Africa as part of the Reconquista. It later became a popular place for both Muslims and Jews who were fleeing the Iberian Peninsula due to persecution from the Spanish Inquisition.

    Today, Chefchaouen is known as the blue city. According to Wikipedia there are many meanings regarding the blue walls. They cite one possible reason as the "blue keeps mosquitos away." Our guide gave us a much more romantic story. When Jews first came to Chefchaouen they did not settle inside the city walls. They started painting their houses blue as it has a symbolic meaning of the sky and being close to God. Muslims painted their houses white as it helps cool and is associated with serenity (you often see white houses in Morocco and Southern Spain). As Jews continued to live there they started to move inside the Medina walls, thus bringing the blue inside. As some Jewish and Muslims inter-married houses took on a two tone Blue and White look.

    It's no surprise today that the blue and white can be found all over the city today. As Chefchaouen has grown as a tourist attraction it has even now become regulated that any residents who paint any other color can be fined.

    Chefchaouen is truly beautiful. It's unlike any other place you may visit. It's no short drive to get out there, but it is an unforgettable experience.
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  • Tangier, Morocco

    14. maaliskuuta 2023, Marokko ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    -Brief History-
    Tangier started as a Phoenician colony as early as the 10th century BC. From there, Berber tombs were fight dating back to the 6th Century BC. It first became a major port in the 5th Century by the Carthaginians. In the 70s BC Roman gained control of the city and then the Byzantine (Eastern Roman) Empire in 533.

    Then, Tangier fell under Muslim rule under the leadership of Musa bin Nusayr between 707-711 AD. During this time Tangles served as the capital of the "province" of Morocco (Maghreb the native name for Morocco).

    After the Reconquesta in Spain and Portugal, the Portuguese king, Alfonso I led a campaign in northern Africa and conquered Tangier in 1471. In the 17th century, Portugal handed over Northern Morocco rule to the Spainish. It remained that way until it gain independence in 1952!

    Greek legend states that Hercules slept here in Tangier before completing the 11th of 12 trials (stealing a sacred apple). In fact there is a cave here called the Cave of Hercules that is rumored to be where he slept.

    -What Tangier is Like
    SAFE!

    The streets between the Souk (Market) and the Kasbah (Fortress/Castle) is a venerable maze. Our AirBnB was there and I swear we went a different way to and from there each and every day. I still don't know the most efficient path. Besides that, we felt very safe getting lost in these streets. There were many small convince stores all around so we were never really alone. The Petite Socco (small square) is filled with restaurants and coffee shops. The Market proper is loaded with meat, spice and fresh fish markets. It's worth walking around to take it all in. Past that, to south is the "Grand Socco" (large rotary) and more modern clothing stores, restaurants, and places to get your tourist sim card.

    It was a nice beginner Mahgreb city. A place to practice our poor Arabic (really hard language with a lot of subtlety) and practice our polite and respectful behavior (such as not using your left hand for eating or gesturing).

    -Disclaimer-
    I apologize in advance for anytime I lost the auto correct war and Tangier was written as Tangles.

    Shukran (Thanks)!
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  • Lisbon, Portugal

    10. maaliskuuta 2023, Portugali ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Bom Dia! (Good day)

    Lisbon is the Capital and largest city in Portugal. Historically, it was occupied by many groups over the centuries. Excluding prehistory, it was first occupied by Romans, the successively by successively by Sarmatians, Alans, Vandals, Germanic Suebi, Visigoths (who also ruled most of Spain), then of course the Moors.

    Briefly between 1108 and 1111, Lisbonwas occupied by Norwegian Crusaders before getting taken back by the Moors. Then, the main event. In 1147, Lisbon was conquered by Alfonso I, who would later become the first King of Portugal.

    Lisbon is known as the City of Seven Hills and walking around you'll soon find out why. The steepness of the streets were on par with Granada so it was probably good practice. The good news is that here there are trolleys and cable cars to ease your knees.

    Along the waterfront, there are monuments to the past explorers of Portugal. Monasteries, Cathedrals and Museums are lined with beautiful tile works both inside and out. Lisbon has its own unique style and beauty.
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