Adventuring Down Under

December 2023 - May 2024
Circumnavigation of Australia aboard Oceania Regatta ... with pre-cruise in Sydney … and a couple of months overland. Read more
  • 274footprints
  • 3countries
  • 142days
  • 2.5kphotos
  • 97videos
  • 48.5kmiles
  • 26.6kmiles
  • 33sea miles
  • Day 134

    Yulara: Uluru … The Rock

    April 23 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Another skip-ahead post to let everyone know that all’s well as we continue to count down the final days of our adventures Down Under.

    Following our expedition cruise through The Kimberleys — which was great, I might add — we flew from Broome to Perth to Sydney to Yulara. The latter is the service town for the iconic Uluru … once known as Ayers Rock.

    Our flight path into Yulara afforded us an aerial glimpse of Uluru, whetting our appetite for the up-close and personal exploration we hope to do over the next four days.

    More to come …
    Read more

  • Day 123

    Darwin: Coral Expeditions … Kimberleys

    April 12 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    Embarking the 70-pax Coral Discoverer for our expedition trip to the Kimberleys in far northwestern Australia. We will be traveling from Darwin to Broome.

  • Day 122

    Darwin: Top End Birthday

    April 11 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 82 °F

    This is a skip-ahead footprint as our April travel schedule in Australia isn’t affording me much downtime to write and process photos between our mini-adventures.

    Not only is The Ghan rail journey now in the “check column,” so are several days on Kangaroo Island (yes, we saw kangaroos galore in the wild) and a museum-day in Adelaide. I’ll eventually catch up with the missing footprints.

    This morning, we flew from Adelaide to Darwin. This time for just an overnight before we embark on an expedition cruise around the Kimberleys … our “joint” birthday experience gift to me. I can call it my birthday cruise because back home in the USA, it will be the 11th when we embark the cruise … even if it is the 11th here today!!!

    Here are a couple of sunset shots from our stroll back to the hotel from Shenanigans tonight … Mother Nature’s celebration of my special day.
    Read more

  • Day 120

    KI: Sculpture Trail

    April 9 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Once again we woke up to overcast skies. At least there was no rain in the forecast.

    Our AirBNB check-out deadline was 10:00a. Our re-scheduled ferry was at 11:30a, with check-in NLT 11:00a. We were out of the house shortly after 8:00a … having had a quick breakfast first. Why? We had some sightseeing plans.

    First up was the Kangaroo Island Sculpture Trail in Penneshaw … where we were greeted by a Tammar wallaby … native to South and Western Australia … and one of the smallest of the wallabies. Little did we know then that we’d be seeing plenty of them on our meandering walk.

    The 1-mile long trail turned out to be more of a garden/park with paved and dirt paths meandering through the grounds … a bush walk of sorts. The sign described the gradients as short, steep hills with many steps. We found it to be a comfortable trail and negotiated it with no difficulties.

    The park is an ongoing project, with sculptures being added as funding permits. In addition to the sculptures, there are haikus by a local poet — Bev Willson — hidden in nooks and crannies around the grounds. Fun.
    Read more

  • Day 119

    KI: FCNP Part II … Remarkable Rocks

    April 8 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    From Weirs Cove, we drove to Remarkable Rocks … one of the most popular places in Flinders Chase National Park. The good news is that today there weren’t many people crawling over the rocks like an ant colony.

    Remarkable rocks are known as a domed inselbergs … aka islands of rock … dating back some 500 million years. Weathering along fractures led to the formation of isolated blocks atop the dome. The changes are not yet complete … rain, wind, particles of salt all continue to erode and shape them.

    As we scrambled around the rocks, we found lots of interesting photo ops. The wind was ferocious at times … as you will see in the photos. But the temp was comfy. I just wish the sun was shining as the orange lichen would have added a brilliant pop of color to the scenery. Oh well … it is what it is. And at least it wasn’t raining. At least not then.

    It was only 1:00p when completed our visit to the park. Still quite early. But we wanted to stop at Seal Cove to see the Australian fur seals and then continue onto Cape Willoughby on the Dudley Peninsula to check out the mob of kangaroos we were told we could see there.

    As it turns out, we could have stayed much longer at FCNP. No sooner were we out of the park that the cloud cover thickened. And with it came heavy rain coming down in sheets that veiled the scenery. So, we ended up driving straight back to the AirBNB instead … to do laundry and prepare for tomorrow’s departure.
    Read more

  • Day 119

    KI: Flinders Chase NP … Part I

    April 8 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    We had set this day aside to explore Flinders Chase National Park [FCNP] … some 170 miles roundtrip … on the far west side of KI.

    The plan was to drive to the farthest point and then make our way back. The GPS wanted to route us via the sealed roads, which would have taken us out of our way considerably. Instead, using the paper map I had picked up while on the ferry, I navigated us to our destination via a series of unsealed roads until it made sense to connect to the sealed South Coast Road for the remainder of the drive.

    On arriving at FCNP, we stopped at the visitor center to pay the entry fee — AUD $13pp … concession/senior not applicable to foreign visitors. The clerk at the desk then gave us the lay of the land and made recommendations on the order in which to hike and visit the sites. We didn’t have time for any real hikes … and, in fact, only managed to see a tiny corner of the vast area protected as a national park. We were delighted to see how well the flora has recovered after the devastating bushfires that decimated 96% of the park

    Rounding the corner as we left the VC, we came across a trio of kangaroos. We slowed down to give them a chance to cross. First they hopped along in front of us and jumped into the bushes. But almost immediately, they hopped out and crossed the road. They criss-crossed the road a few times before finally disappearing into the bush. A great encounter with photo ops.

    We had set out from the house this morning under overcast skies. Even had a couple of showers on our way to FCNP. Thus, resigned to another grey day, we were pleased to note the sun was periodically breaking out of the clouds as we drove further into the park.

    Our first stop was the Cape du Couedic Lighthouse … just a brief photo op. From the signage, we learned that the cape is “… a dynamic border between land and sea, constantly being shaped by the waves and wind, and dominated by the cycles of the tide.” The sea in question here is the Southern Ocean … that often-turbulent body of water that separates Antarctica from the rest of the land masses in the southern hemisphere.

    From the lighthouse, we continued down to the end of the road to stroll the boardwalk to Admiral’s Arch. The clerk at the VC had already told us that due to the construction of a new viewing platform — we would not be able to see much of the arch itself. However, there were long-nosed fur seals on the rocks … 30-40 of them at any given time. Wildlife is always an incentive.

    The boardwalk zig-zagged down at a gentle incline, so it was a pleasant stroll … our only discomfort was from the chilly wind blowing strong. Luckily, we were bundled up. In any event, the scenery was spectacular, with the ferocious Southern Ocean crashing ashore … and even filling some rock formations with water that the seals seemed to be enjoying as they played about.

    After this stop, we got back in the car to drive to Weirs Cove, considered a heritage site as this is where supplies — anything and everything from food to fuel — were delivered every three months for the lighthouse keepers back in the day. Even building materials had to be transported here by steamship, then carried 300 feet up the cliff. The construction of a “flying fox” in 1907 made the job a little easier. At least the keepers could then winch up the supplies instead of carrying them up themselves. It wasn’t until the 1940s that the first truck-delivery was made.

    It was interesting to see the ruins of the flying-fox and the store house. But what was a highlight for us here was the views. Especially since the sun brightened things for a bit … and we even had some blue patches in the sky.
    Read more

  • Day 119

    KI: Kokumi Kangaroo

    April 8 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We have a kangaroo visiting us at Kokumi, the house we rented through AirBNB.

    He usually shows up when we are having breakfast and doesn't come very close ... browsing instead at the far edge of the open field where the grass is taller. Yesterday, he disappeared as soon as we stepped onto the balcony. Today, he was more tolerant of our presence.Read more

  • Day 118

    KI: Kingscote … Lunch & Art Trail

    April 7 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Kigscote is the largest town on Kangaroo Island — with a population of around 2,000 people. It also has the distinction of being the oldest European settlement in South Australia.

    On a cool Sunday afternoon, we found Kingscote all-but deserted. Most of the businesses were closed … and that included restaurants. Luckily, Mui’s research pointed us to Cactus, which was still serving when we arrived. A casual café atmosphere … patio seating protected from the elements … good food. We both ordered tacos and split an order of sweet potato fries.

    For dessert, we went in search of ice cream and found a shop that had what we were looking for. Yummy!

    Our meandering stroll through town then took us on parts of the Art Trail … which included colorful murals … many of them featuring kangaroos.
    Read more

  • Day 118

    KI: Ambling Drive & ‘Roo Mobs

    April 7 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    When we left Penneshaw, we had no real plan for our drive except that at some point we would stop in Kingscote for lunch.

    Getting on Hog Bay Road, one of the very few sealed roads on the island, we began our drive … stopping whenever something caught our eye … including a photo op at Gallipoli Hill and a wander at scenic Pennington Bay … one of the highlights of today.

    Leaving the sealed road behind, we then headed up to the Red Banks. This was to be our test drive on an unsealed road as Budget had told Mui not to attempt any roads that might require 4WD. Forget four wheeling, we found the unsealed road to be smoother than some of our paved highways in the USA.

    There was no description of the Red Banks. But Mui and I agreed that the name probably referred red cliffs. Turns out that we were right. The only problem? To see the cliffs, one must walk out onto a very narrow lookout that has become heavily eroded. We were very careful — Mui had a tight grip on the waist of my jeans — and got some decent views and photos. However, I don’t think that will be possible for much longer. A few more major storms will probably cause the eroded spit to crumble.

    Rather than retrace our route back to Hog Bay Road, we next opted to follow a few more unsealed roads to Kingscote. And then onto Stokes Bay where we had been told that we could see kangaroos in the wild.

    Indeed, we saw plenty of ‘roos. Because they were browsing on private lands that were fenced, we could not get very close. Nonetheless it was fun to watch them. In fact, we spent so much time with them that it was too late to hike over the rocks to see if the much-vaunted Stokes Bay Beach deserved its reputation.

    By the time we headed home it was apparent that it would be dark by the time we got to Cape Willoughby. Maybe we can fit it in tomorrow.
    Read more

  • Day 118

    KI: Art Around Penneshaw

    April 7 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    After a good night’s rest — and some dallying at Kokumi (the name by which our AirBNB is known) — we set off to do some sightseeing.

    The sky was overcast; the temp was chilly; there was rain in the forecast. Today seemed like a good day to head west and north … and wrap up in the southeast corner of Kangaroo Island (KI) where we were told we could find a mob of kangaroos near the lighthouse.

    But first we drove into Penneshaw to get some info from the visitor center. Closed until 10:00a unfortunately. We would have to make do with the island map I had picked up on the ferry.

    Our stop at the VC did bear fruit in the form of a tile mosaic on the ground … Community Art as History Project … from 1997. Metal sculptures as we drove out of town were a bonus.
    Read more