South West Coastal Path

August - September 2023
The SWCP is the longest national trail. From Minehead to Poole, it takes in the best parts of four unique counties, offering 630 miles of uninterrupted paths. This is part one of my journey from Minehead to Newquay. Read more
  • 13footprints
  • 1countries
  • 13days
  • 113photos
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  • 135kilometers
  • Day 13

    Tintagel - The End Stage one

    September 9, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    With suspected food poisoning and a vertigo attack yesterday, I have decided not to walk on. I only had one more full day to do.
    Instead, this morning, I caught the bus from Bude to Tintagel and found a campsite.
    After a long rest, I had a short walk around Tintagel and to my great delight met up with my two walking companions as they made their way wearily into town.
    It made a wonderful finale to an amazing walk.
    The path is simply stunning but tough. Distances take a very long time because of the ascents and descents. The toil is worth it as the coastal scenery is breath taking.
    I will be back to continue where I left off….
    Thank you all for following and your supportive messages.Tintagel
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  • Day 12

    Bude to Crackington Haven

    September 8, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    10 miles 24C

    134 miles 7897m cumulative Ascent 25,912 fr

    I said goodbye to my fellow walkers this morning. We’ve enjoyed each other’s company the last few days. Although, I’m pretty sure one of them is lying low from the law.
    I decided to walk with a light pack and bus it back to Bude. I set off at 8am. There was a low sea mist all along the coastline but every now and then it cleared. This section was busy with day walkers and tourists on the path. I think that a number seriously underestimated the distance and how tough the path got.
    The path was very pleasant to Widenouth Bay. The beaches were busy with surfers and retired folk walking their dogs.
    I quickly made distance until I hit some BIG ascents and descents.
    The sea mist kept me cool but the humidity was high.
    As I approached my destination for the day, I was a stunning section called the Cleave. It was a thin precipice which was shrouded with sea mist on either side. It was amazing. I stopped for lunch on Castle Point before dropping into Crackington Haven.
    I had just enough time for a quick soda water and lime before catching the bus back to Bude.
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  • Day 11

    Morwenstow to Bude

    September 7, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    7.5 miles 26C

    The overnight stop at the Bush Inn was fantastic. Caught up with three other coast walkers who also pitched up at the pub. I had a second meal and a few pints before we all settled in for the night.
    We were all up at 0615 and I was on the path for 7am.
    It had rained overnight but all my kit was dry.
    For the next two hours, I crossed some BIG headlands. They were truly stunning. I was happily motoring on with Van Morrison on my iPod. I could see two of the guys from last night just starting their descents into the coves as I was ascending on the other side. Yesterday and todays ascents were 1,271m.
    The day was overcast and we had one brief cooling shower. Although, it was humid, you certainly could feel the heat building up.
    I passed a huge radar/listening station that dominated the landscape.
    By 1030, the two guys had caught up with me. Our energy levels were depleted but we were over the worse. We came upon a cafe and quickly demolished our full English breakfasts.
    The headlands reduced in their severity which meant an easy walk into Bude.
    The town is packed. We managed to find a small campsite on the outskirts of town.
    After quick showers, we were all into town to find a laundrette because with this heat and effort, we pose a serious health risk to ourselves and the public.
    The temperature continues to rise but early starts are the answer
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  • Day 10

    Hartland Quay to Morwenstow

    September 6, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    8 miles 26C

    A great night at Stoke Barton campsite near Hartland Quay. I ended up chatting to a chap who had just fastpacked with a very light pack from Hartland Quay to Bude. He was absolutely exhausted. He strongly recommended splitting the distance in two. As the temperature was peaking at 26C again, I have followed his advice.
    I set off at 8am with a full pack. I kept leap frogging other coast walkers.
    The path took me over amazing his cliff paths but after each one there was a steep descent down to sea level and back up. Absolutely exhausting.
    I walked briefly with a couple from Bristol who’ve walked the SWCP path four times.
    Eventually, I arrived exhausted at the 13th Century Bush Inn at around 1pm. The staff will let you unofficially camp in their beer garden if you have a meal. Absolute no brainier as temperature continues to rise.
    I had a few pints and a lunch. Admin completed by having a bottle of water shower and rinsing my clothes.
    I intend to chill out the rest of the day in the shade and watch the shattered walkers come in.
    Tomorrow, I will set off early and complete the seven miles to Bude. There are still more severe hills on this section to walk. I need to beat the heat which is a ridiculous thing to say in the UK.
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  • Day 9

    Clovelly to Stoke Martin

    September 5, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    10.5 miles 26C

    I am pleased that I took the break in the New Inn Hotel last night. I used all the facilities including a bath. I had a few pints and a huge sausage and mash dinner. An early night in a double bed.
    After a full breakfast this morning, I climbed back up the hill to the trail.
    What a stunning day unfolded before me. The trail took me through the Clovelly estate and onto a number of very steep headlands. I must be getting fitter as I seem to climb them a little quicker.
    There were no facilities on the entire path today so I had extra food and water with me.
    The weather was stunning but it quickly reached 26C. This time of year is supposed to be rain and misery but it wasn’t.
    The path eventually opened out to gentle undulating hills, through fields of grasslands with wild flower borders. It was stunning.
    The hedgerows are brimming with blackberries so I must have eaten my body weight of them. Those that know me, know that I am a big unit 😎.
    The coastline has become more dramatic. I reached Hartland Point around 12.30 and had a little siesta.
    The next two hours was spent climbing dramatic headlands until I got to my campsite at Stoke Barton.
    I was a little footsore and had drunk 5 litres of water.
    Admin completed, I will have an expedition meal tonight before turning in early.
    Tomorrow I hit a severe section with over 10 valleys to climb and descend over 15.5 miles. The temperature will be 25C and serious issue
    With a heavy pack and the heat factor, I will split this section in two parts.
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  • Day 8

    Westward Ho! to Clovelly

    September 4, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A Brutual 11 miles.

    99 miles walked to this point.

    I set off at 8am from Westward Hoy! It was promising to be a hot day.
    I was escorted by two of the local constabulary for the first mile. They were looking for two children MFH who were camping on the coast.
    They located the kids who clearly had no intention of going to school.
    I carried on the path which was very strenuous. I stopped several times to eat my fill of blackberries. I was exhausted with climbing up and down headlands. At the halfway point today, I got to Peppercombe beach. I lay down and had a 45 minute nap. It was glorious, listening to the waves crashing through the huge pebble beach. The temperature was 25C.
    I carried on with the trail and eventually arrived 6.5 hours after setting out. I was literally washed out. I had drunk 4 litres of water.
    There are no campsites in Clovelly. I intended to carry on but I was exhausted.
    I checked into the New Inn and got myself a lovely room not before quenching my thirst with a hard earned pint of Guinness.
    Clovelly is beautiful and very touristy but it seems very quiet now the day tourists have left.
    I intend to have an early night and prepare for tomorrow’s adventure.
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  • Day 6

    Lower Yelland to Westward Ho!

    September 2, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Lower Yelland to Westward Ho! 12 miles

    Last night was very restful even after a few pints of ale from the Brewery next door. A truly eccentric landlord.
    I set off this morning at 07.20am with a light pack. It was to be another glorious day. The path basically continues around the Taw estuary.
    I quickly got to Bideford and stopped briefly for middle breakfast.
    Most of the trail is suburban but there was a brief section through National Trust land which was very pleasant. I passed a Harland & Wolf shipyard with a baby Goliath lift which brought back happy memories of Belfast.
    Before long, I was passing through Appledore which was busy with families crab fishing or swimming.
    I entered the Northampton Burrows Cohntry Park which looks across the mouth of the estuary to Crow Rock. The walk continued around a golf course and followed a beach protected by a huge pebble defence wall into Westward Ho!
    The distance took me 4 hours.
    After a little food shop, I caught the bus back to the campsite.
    Admin completed, it’s time to let my feet recover.
    Tomorrow, I will walk from Westward Ho! to Clovelly. The scenery will become more dramatic.
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  • Day 6

    Croyde to Lower Yellard

    September 2, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    21 miles

    Last night, I indulged in a second dinner of smashed burger and chips at the canp site. I set off this morning at 6.30am. My tent was soaked.

    The beach was packed with surfers jostling for waves. High tide was in but I managed to wak along the beach to pick up the Coatal Path. The next couple of hours was spent walking on a busy road from Croyde to Braunton. It was not a pleasant experience. I intended to walk the 3 mile length of Saunton Sands but the tide was lapping against the dunes. This meant a boring walk along Braunton Marsh.
    The temperature was 23C with no wind.
    I was feeling pretty fed up and was considering bailing out at Barnstable. These thoughts persisted all the way along the sea defences around the Taw estuary to Barnstable.
    I bought some lunch and sat watching a demonstration again race hate. I ended up chatting to a police woman managing the event. She told me that I would miss some amazing scenery if I bailed out.
    I did research trains from Barnstable home for today and for the first time ever, I’ve got to thank the rail strikes - no trains. Decision made.
    One pint later, I was back on the trail which also encompasses the Tarka trail and yomping towards Biddeford, listening to AC/DC. Fine music to get the miles in.
    The trail continued to be easy but very boring. I arrived at my amazing campsite very footsore.
    Fate has interceded because this one has a BREWERY…hurrah 🍺.
    Admin done, I will have a light tea and a few beers. I feel that a snore fest is coming on. I am staying another night here so will do a light pack day tomorrow to Westward Ho!
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  • Day 5

    Ilfracombe to Croyde

    September 1, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Ilfracombe to Croyde 14 miles

    Stats 53 miles 86 Kim’s 12,788 ft ascent

    I caught the 7.10am bus from Combe Martin to Ilfracombe and immediately set off on the trail in the spills of rain. Not a good start but 30 mins later, the sun came out.
    The walking was strenuous with big ascents into narrow coves and back up the other sides. Lundy Island was glowing in the Bristol Channel.
    Just before the stunning Lee Bay, I encountered a herd of cattle blocking the path. A poke with my walking poles and instructing them with ‘move along ladies’ meant I got past without incident.
    Lee Bsy is beautiful so I sat on a wall, admiring the scenery, and had middle breakfast.
    Back to the steep sections until I arrived at Morte Point pretty tired. I now turned south to Woolacombe. After some refreshment ( I’ve taken a shining to Thatchers Cider 😬), I walked the length of the vast beach full of holiday makers.
    I finally arrived in Croyde to a surfers festival taking place.
    The campsite is doing pop up street food and chill out music. I did my best to support the local economy.
    Admin done, I will enjoy the rest of a lovely day. Tomorrow, I will get to Barnstable.
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  • Day 3

    Combe Martin to Ilfracombe

    August 30, 2023 in England ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Combe Martin to ilfracombe 5.5 miles

    A very short day today. The forecast is thunderstorms and rain all day. I decided to just play safe and will be staying another night in Combe Martin.
    I did however pack a light bag and set off at 8am on the Ciastal path to Ilfracombe. Rain storms raced in from the Bristol Channel.
    I arrived in Illfracombe at 9.30am and had a walk around the town before having breakfast and catching the 10.30am bus back.
    Today will be spent washing clothes, reading and maybe a few pints.
    The forecast improves for the rest of the week. I will catch the bus early tomorrow back to Illfracombe and carry on the path.
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