• The Cambs Dykes 3 - Devil's Dyke

    20 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Devil's Dyke runs in an almost straight line from Woodditton (just south of Newmarket) to Reach (north-west of Newmarket); it is over 7 miles (11 km) long and is the largest of the series of the four ancient Cambridgeshire dykes - in some places the bank measures 9 metres (30 ft) high and 36.5 metres (120 ft) across.  When it was created, Devil's Dyke completely blocked a narrow land corridor between the southern edge of a region of water-logged marsh (now known as The Fens) in the north-west and dense woodlands in the south, so making circumvention difficult and forming an effective defensive barrier for the lands to the east.  

    We start our walk at the southern access point of Devil's Dyke at Woodditton, passing the water tower; the Dyke initially passes through the woods of a private estate. The embankment is very high in parts here and is thickly enclosed by scrub and bushes. After a short while, we cross a minor road and then the B1061 before negotiating the steps down to the gap across the Cambridge to Newmarket railway line. 

    After crossing this, Devil's Dyke changes in character and becomes much more open, with chalk loving flowers along this stretch.  There are views of a links golf course before we enter the domain of horse racing, as the Dyke cuts between Newmarket's two famous courses - the Rowley Mile, with its Millennium Grandstand, and the July Course.

    Soon we reach, and cross, the A14 and have views of the surrounding flat farmland before reaching the B1102 to Burwell.  At last we arrive at the northern access point of the Devil's Dyke, close to the village of Reach, and the end of this great walk.

    There is a local Morris dancing side that is named after Devil's Dyke - follow this link to read more about them (us!).... devilsdykemm.org.uk
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  • 2. Downham to Littleport

    16 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    From Downham Market (aka Downham), I head down towards the Denver Sluice Complex.  This is important for water management across large parts of the surrounding Fenland area (comprising over 1,500 square miles of former marshland at or below sea level); in the 1650s, the swampland was used to create productive farmland out of the unused land - river channels were straightened, new channels dug, levee banks piled high, and the land was drained.  At high tide, a series of sturdy gates at the Denver Sluice are closed, and the water is forced to back up in the river relief channels until the tide falls below the river level.  When the tide falls to a low enough level, the sluice gates are re-opened and the river is allowed to continue its flow out to sea; if necessary, an area of animal grazing land at Welney — 20 miles upstream of the Complex — is sacrificed to the waters as a temporary reservoir.  It was fascinating to visit this before heading further down river.

    I pass the small, but growing, village of Ten Mile Bank before en route to Brandon Creek; is where the River Little Ouse joins the Great Ouse and for much of the its length it defines the boundary between Norfolk and Suffolk; indeed, after crossing the bridge, one is in Suffolk.  From here the walk south is sandwiched between the A10(T) and a floodbank of the River Great Ouse (it is both hot and a little noisy at times, but there are good views of boats on the river), before heading to Littleport railway station.

    It was fascinating to visit this before heading further up river to reach Downham Market (aka Downham) and the end of this leg of the Fen Rivers Way.
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  • Introduction to IWM Duxford

    10 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Based at the historic Duxford Aerodrome, the IWM Duxford site was originally operated by the Royal Air Force (RAF) during the First World War. During the Second World War Duxford played a prominent role during the Battle of Britain and was later used by United States Army Air Forces fighter units in support of the daylight bombing of Germany. Duxford remained an active RAF airfield until 1961.

    After the Ministry of Defence declared the site surplus to requirements in 1969, the Imperial War Museum received permission to use part of the site for storage. The entirety of the site was transferred to the Imperial War Museum in 1976.

    In keeping with the site's history many of Duxford's original buildings, such as hangars used during the Battle of Britain, are still in use as exhibition halls for aircraft. The site also features several purpose-built exhibition buildings, such as the American Air Museum.  

    Over the years we have lived in Duxford, there have been many air shows with all sorts of aircraft flying over the house; before the Shoreham air disaster, it was possible to view the air shows directly from a nearby road that passes over the M11.
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  • The Cambs Dykes 2 - Fleam Dyke

    7 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Fleam Dyke is the oldest of the four Cambridgeshire Dykes and comprised a 7 metre-high linear earthwork bank and ditch that ran from Fulbourn up to Balsham; thought to have been built in the seventh century as a defence of the Kingdom of East Anglia in its wars with Mercia, most survives now as a footpath that is now part of the Harcamlow Way (a walking route running in a figure-of-eight from Harlow to Cambridge and back again).

    Parking in Fulbourn, we soon reach the start of Fleam Dyke, walk its top and enjoying good views of the wind turbines at Wadlow Wind Farm site in West Wratting, near Balsham. The Fleam Dyke pumping station, now redundant, is ahead; there are good views of the dyke and ditch looking back to this. Crossing the disused railway line, we eventually reach a circular mound of earth - the Mutlow Hill Bronze Age Barrow; dating from 4,000 BC, this old shrine was used as a meeting place in the medieval period. We now have to cross the A11 using a footbridge and our guide map draws our attention to the Juniper Trees on the dyke on this side - they are the last nine wild Juniper trees in the whole of East Anglia! We walk down from Fleam Dyke to cross the Bedford Gap before walking up it again to continue south east into wooded land, as trees cover both sides of Fleam Dyke from here on. Our route takes us through Dungate Farm and then ascends, still through trees, to The Ambush (a local name with no historic meeting) to the end of Fleam Dyke near the Balsham ridge; the Harcamlow Way continues or you can take the path to the village of Balsham. We double back and do the walk in reverse to return to the car.

    Walking the length of Fleam Dyke did not disappoint, as it is a good and interesting walk.
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  • The Cambs Dykes 1 - Bran and Brent

    6 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    There is a series of four defensive dykes that crossed the old Icknield Way - a pre-Roman path, often claimed as the oldest in England - that were built by the Anglo Saxons during the 5th - 7th centuries AD. Each comprise a substantial earthworks with a high bank and a ditch on its southwest side, and they run across the chalk downland ridge that carries the Icknield Way; they cross the South Cambridgeshire chalk plain from the springline and wetlands to the north to the junction of the chalk and boulder clay on the higher ground to the south. These monuments, generally referred to as The Cambridgeshire Dykes, increase considerably in scale from Bran Ditch to the west to Devils Dyke in the east, with Brent Ditch and Fleam Dyke in between; all are protected scheduled monuments. It is believed that these earthworks were designed both as defensive structure and as a means controlling trade along the ancient Roman roads that crossed the dyke (including the Icknield Way).

    This post covers the first two - Bran Ditch and Brent Ditch

    Bran Ditch (aka Heydon Ditch) begins on the outskirts of Heydon Village and it is now part of both the Harcamlow Way and Icknield Way walks; it extends as far as Heydon Grange Golf Club before these two modern routes turn west. Bran Ditch originally extended for approx. 3 miles from Heydon to Black Peak at the south end of Fowlmere RSPB Nature Reserve, but only a short section along part of these modern walking routes has not been lost to agricultural reforms etc - I walked it from Heydon down to Gravelpit Plantation on the outskirts of the Heydon Golf Club.

    Brent Ditch was built around the 6th and 7th Centuries and, unfortunately, most of its structure has also been lost over time. It was originally approx. 1 mile in length and now runs from Pampisford Hall in the North-West to Abington in the South-East; for most of its length it is wooded and on private land and so difficult to access - I viewed it as a low ditch in a wooded area besides the A11.
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  • Fulbourn

    6 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Fulbourn lies about 5 miles southeast of the centre of Cambridge and is the next village after Cherry Hinton. With the Cambridge city boundaries to the west, the land north and east of the village is flat, drained fen whereas in the south and southwest the Gog Magog Hills rise up and to the east there is a wooded area, including a nature reserve (Fulbourn Fen), and Fleam Dyke – an ancient defensive earthwork (see post).

    In Norman times, Fulbourn was recognised as having five manors but only Fulbourn Manor remains today. A bit of a walk away is Hall Orchard, the site of an Anglo-Saxon moated manor known as Dunmowes which survives as an earthwork; it has a water-filled moat when suitable conditions exist - not today though, as I walked around the length of the bottom of the moat. After that, Fulbourn Fen nature reserve was an interesting walk back to the village.

    Back in Fulbourn, there is the Church of St Vigor's with All Saints. A dedication of two churches is highly unusual; at some stage in its early history, Fulbourn became two separate parishes, each with its own church, All Saints and St Vigor’s - All Saint's church was only a few feet away, apparently, and was ruined in May 1766 and the two churches became one. Not far from the church is the war memorial.

    Leaving Fulbourn on the road to Cherry Hinton, you drive past Fulbourn Windmill (on low chalk hills looking out to the very flat Fens) and then Fulbourn Hospital (a former Victorian age pauper lunatic asylum, but now providing proper mental health care and appropriate therapy).
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  • Bexley

    3 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Bexley is the site of the Old Dartfordians Rugby Club (now the Dartfordians Community Sports Club) and is where our sixth form discos and parties were held back in the day.  The rest of the village is also rather interesting....

    We enter Bexley as part of the London LOOP walk there from Erith, via Slade Green and Crayford, and see the Church of St Mary The Virgin; built in the Middle Ages, it has an unusual spire which resembles an octagonal cone balancing on top of a truncated pyramid. 

    As we walk along the High Street, we cross the River Cray and pass under the railway line - the arches have been converted to small businesses (much like in Bermondsey, further up the line) - to reach Freemantle Hall; built in Victorian times, the hall acts as a community centre and focal point for the village. 

    Walking further on the road to Bexleyheath, we see the Old School House and the Community Library before reaching "the Old D's".  Of course it has changed a lot since the mid 70s, but it would still be a long walk back to Slade Green from here (especially after lots of Brown Ale)!
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  • Walk 3 - Crayford to Bexley

    3 de agosto de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The walk from Crayford to Bexley is also part of the London LOOP.  On leaving the Waterside Gardens in Crayford, it is not possible to walk further along the River Cray due to industrial development.  Crossing the road we pass through the small Tannery Garden (there used to be a tannery and brickworks in Crayford) and onto London Road (Watling Street), forking left at the junction with Bourne Road until a garage is reached; the two posts either side of this are all that remains of Crayford Cinema and on the other side of the road is Shenstone Park.  Here there is a sculpture of cows (Cows about Crayford?) illustrating another aspect of Crayford’s industrial history; cow dung and the roots of the Madder plant were used to create red dyes for silk (there used to be a silkworks in Crayford too).  We walk down the edge of a playing field to reach the River Cray; it is a pleasant walk along the river bank and after a while we reach Hall Place; this is a beautiful Tudor house on the outskirts of Crayford and on the banks of the River Cray - we divert from the London LOOP route to explore the award-winning gardens,   .  

    Hall Place is a stately home; building started in 1537 for a wealthy merchant using, in part, stone recycled from nearby former monastery, Lesnes Abbey (in what is now nearby Abbey Wood).  In 1649, the house was sold to another wealthy City merchant who added a second wing built of red bricks, doubling the size of the house, but in highly contrasting architectural styles. Today Hall Place is restored to its original Tudor and later 17th-century designs and is managed by the charity Bexley Heritage Trust. There are 65 hectares of landscaped gardens and grounds, a topiary lawn, herb garden, tropical garden and long herbaceous cottage garden-styled borders.  It was lovely to walk round some of these.

    We head back to our route and have to skirt the outside of Hall Place gardens to the railway line and cross under the A2 (aka the East Rochester Way) via an underpass where the local graffiti artists have been busy.  From here we walk along the edge of Churchfield Wood to Bexley (aka Old Bexley or Bexley Village).  Walking along the High Street into Bexley we cross the River Cray at The Old Mill; this was destroyed by fire in 1966, rebuilt in replica form and is now converted to residential use.
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  • Cows about Cambridge

    24 de julho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    When one thinks about cows about Cambridge, you usually think of the classic image of cows grazing close to Kings College or on Midsummer Common..... but, there is currently a public art event in the city called Cows about Cambridge; this is a free trail of 90 individually designed cow sculptures (44 large and 46 small) around the city that is available until 4th September 2021, after which they will be auctioned off for charity.   All the cows are based on the same two moulds, are made from fibreglass and have been painted by regional artists and sponsored by businesses from many different sectors.

    The trail had to be done, of course, and the pictures show some of the large cows (they are approx. 1.34m tall, 2.13m in length and 0.55m wide and weigh approx. 45kg).
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  • Ely; the Eel Trail, part 2

    19 de julho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    As we walk along Quayside there are good views of the boats, barges and the marinas in Ely.  

    We turn left at the river and pass the Maltings (a Victorian brewery building beside the river that now hosts events, conferences and weddings) before walking up Waterside and Fore Hill to reach the High Street.  In the Almonry Wall opposite the Market Square is the magnificent City of Ely War memorial, taking the form of an arched and domed alcove within the rough stone wall.  There are beautiful old buildings further along up the High Street; after these we pass the Sacrist's Gate and Steeple Gate, both pedestrian entrances to the Precincts of the Cathedral. We then bear left at Minster Place to reach the Cathedral main entrance - the Galilee Porch - and close to where the Eel Trail started.Leia mais

  • Ely; the Eel Trail, part 1

    19 de julho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Ely is a cathedral city based in the Fens and about 14 miles north east of Cambridge; the Fens are a naturally marshy coastal plain in eastern England of which most is only a few metres above sea level - the city is built on an "island" of Kimmeridge Clay making it the highest part of the Fenland area. The River Great Ouse runs through Ely on its way north; the River Cam joins this a little further south at Pope's Corner, Little Thetford. Ely’s name relates to a time when the city was surrounded by marsh and its main trade was in eels - eels are still caught in the River Ouse.

    We follow "The Eel Trail" and start at Oliver Cromwell's House (he lived in Ely between 1638 and 1646); this was formerly St Mary's Vicarage and is now the Tourist Information Centre. We pass St Mary's Church and opposite the Bishop's Palace on Palace Green is the "Cannon on the Green"; this is cannon was captured during the Crimean War at the Siege of Sevastopol and presented to the people of Ely by Queen Victoria in 1860 as a war memorial.

    Just behind the cannon is Ely Cathedral; this has its origins as an Abbey founded in 672 and the present building dates back to 1083. Known as the "ship of the Fens" it is visible over much of local area as this is so flat. There are lovely views as we walk around it and then go inside to enjoy the cathedral itself; there is a contemporary piece of work known as "The Way of Life" (2001) and the nave is magnificent.

    A little up the road is the 14th century Ely Porta or Walpole's Gate; this was once the main entrance to Ely Monastery and is now part of the King's School, housing its library now; King's School is an independent public boarding school founded in 970 AD, making it one of the oldest schools in the world.

    We walk through Ely Park and have a magnificent view of the Cathedral before reaching the lovely Jubilee Gardens; there is a large eel sculpture as well as an 8 metre long eel mosaic made from shards of pottery uncovered by Time Team archaeologists working on the excavations in advance of the creation of the Gardens. The river is directly in front of us as we reach Quayside.
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  • Waterbeach, Stretham, and Littleport

    19 de julho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    This post describes some of the villages, towns and sites along the A10 on the Cambridgeshire part of the Fen Rivers Way Walk which follows the course of the River Cam and then River Great Ouse on their way from Cambridge to King's Lynn in Norfolk (see appropriate posts in that Trip).

    Heading north from Cambridge, we soon reach Waterbeach.  This is a designated new town and growing rapidly; there was originally an RAF Station and a British Army Barracks here, but they are both gone now.  There is a small common on the way to St John's Church.  Back at the recreation ground, there is a walk that takes you to part of the Car Dyke; this is Roman waterway / ditch that runs along the Western edge of the Fens and is traceable as far as Lincoln - it was interesting to walk along this short section, even though it was rather overgrown.  

    Driving a little further up the A10, we reach Denny Abbey; it was founded in 1159 as a Benedictine monastery, in 1170 it was taken over by the Knights Templars before it became a convent of Franciscan nuns known as the Poor Clares. Following the dissolution of the monasteries in 1539 by Henry VIII, it became a farm and was in use until the late 1960s.  

    Further on and only 4 miles south west of Ely is the village of Stretham.  The Stretham Old Engine is a steam-powered engine, just south of the village, was used to pump water from flood-affected areas of The Fens back into the River Great Ouse; it originally had a steam-powered pump to drain the fens - it is still in use today, although converted to electric power. It is one of only three surviving drainage engines in East Anglia, and is a Grade II* listed building.  Other notable buildings in Stretham include the 12th century St James' Church and the Stretham Windmill (now a private home).

    Next is the large village of Littleport, 6 miles north east of Ely; it is famous / infamous for The Littleport Riots which broke out in 1816 after war-weary veterans from the Battle of Waterloo returned home, only to find they could get no work and grain prices had gone up - they took to the streets and smashed shops and other buildings until troops were brought in (there is now a Morris Dancing side called the Ely and Littleport Riot).  It is also known for the Harley-Davidson statue which was unveiled here in 2003 to commemorate the centenary of the motorcycle company -  William Harley, father of the company's co-founder William Sylvester Harley, had been born in Victoria Street, Littleport, in 1835 and emigrated to the United States in 1859.
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  • Mendip Hills; Cheddar Gorge

    28 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Cheddar Gorge is the largest gorge in the UK; it is 400 ft (122m) deep and 3 miles long; there are various individual show caves here, but they are closed at the moment as it is not possible to have a one-way system through them.  The Gorge is a very popular walking area as there is a lovely circular walk which takes in both sides.

    We start at the National Trust booth in Cheddar Village, going uphill initially and then heading east on the well-trodden path.  There are good views as we move along it before we turn downhill to the Black Hill Nature Reserve and cross the B1315 (aka the cliff road) to walk west back down the other side of the gorge.  There are even better views here, especially of the Cheddar Reservoir, at the Pulpit Rock.  We head back to Cheddar via the steep steps of Jacob's Ladder next to Pavey's Lookout Tower.
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  • Wells

    28 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Wells is the smallest city in the UK (excluding the City of London) and is situated on the southern edge of the Mendip Hills; it takes its name from 3 local wells - one in the Market Place and two in the grounds between the Bishop's Palace and the Cathedral.

    We pass some prettily decorated Almshouses on our way to the Market Place and the main city attractions.  We pass through the Bishop's Eye and start at the Bishop's Palace, adjacent to Wells Cathedral; the Palace has been the home of the Bishops of the Diocese of Bath and Wells for 800 years.  The Palace is surrounded by a moat and walls and we walk over a bridge and through the Gatehouse; there is a magnificent croquet lawn in front of the Main House, which is itself next to the Chapel and the ruined Great Hall, and we walk along some of the moat for views.  After leaving, and on our way to see Vicars' Close, we pass the Cathedral West Front (unfortunately covered with scaffolding); Vicars' Close was built in the 14th century and is the only completely medieval street left in England.  

    Then it is back to enter the beautiful Cathedral, which is dedicated to St Andrew the Apostle and built over the period 1176 to 1450; the nave is modern looking due to the "scissor arches" - these were a 14th century solution to sinking tower foundations.  The Chapter House is closed due to the pandemic, but the attractive staircase leading to it is visible.  The Cathedral has a large garden in the middle of the cloisters, a beautiful Quire, a magnificent Cathedral clock (with one of the oldest medieval clock faces in the world, dating from c1390) and an ancient font.

    An excellent place for a visit.
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  • Mendip Hills; Wookey Hole Caves

    27 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Wookey Hole is a village one mile to the west of the city of Wells and is dominated by the Wookey Hall Caves, a series of limestone caverns, a show cave (for visits) and various tourist attractions.

    The show cave is of major interest; the River Axe flows through the cave system and it is a Site of Special Scientific Interest for both biological and geological reasons.  The caves have been used by humans for around 45,000 years and the emerging waters have been used for a corn-grinding mill and a handmade paper mill.  The show cave is notable for the Witch of Wookey Hole, a roughly human-shaped stalagmite that legend says is a witch turned to stone by a monk from Glastonbury; there is a legend associated with this....  There are many chambers and  the first successful cave dives in Britain were made here in 1946.  The caves have been used and/or referred to in many TV programmes.

    The rest of the site is popular with families as there are attractions such a dinosaur valley and a small museum about the cave and cave diving, a theatre with circus shows, a house of mirrors and penny arcades housed in the old mills there.

    A good morning out for us and something for everybody is here.
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  • Mendip Hills; East Harptree and area

    26 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We're staying in an Air BnB accommodation in East Harptree, a small village in Somerset, for a few days. This post summarises some local walks we did in the area.

    From the church we walk along the bottom section of Harptree Combe, seeing the very scanty remains of Richmont Castle and an old Victorian Aquaduct, on our way to the larger village of West Harptree. We take the paths to Chew Valley Lake and cross this via Herriotts Bridge, where there are good views of the Lake and of Herriotts Mill Pool, a local nature reserve.; the Chew Valley Lake was created as a water supply resevoir for Bristol in the 1950s. From here it is down to Widcombe Common and then along the small River Chew to Tudor Farm across to Townsent and back to East Harptree; we pass the clock tower built in 1897 to celebrate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria. We leave the village sgain and the double back along the top section of Harptree Combe.

    Later on, it is a short drive to East Harptree Woods to see the Smitham Lead Mine Chimney; this was built in 1867 as part of an unsuccessful lead mining venture.

    Next day, We do a walk near of Ebbor Woods and then head to Ebbor Gorge for a circular walk around this; not surprisingly, it is very steep in places, but there is a good view of the Somerset Levels from one point at the top.
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  • Glastonbury

    25 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Glastonbury is a quirky town and steeped in history and myth concerning Joseph of Arithamea, the Holy Grail and King Arthur.  Most people, however, associate it with the music festival which, by coincidence, was meant to be this weekend; there are still many "new-age" types and hippies here though...

    We walk via the back route to access the nearby tor (hill) from behind; the conical hill is topped by the roofless St Michael's Tower, built in the 14th century to replace the original wooden church, before returning to town down the front of the hill. We pass a 14th century tithe barn, now the Somerset Rural Life Museum, on our way to the Town Centre.

    Glastonbury is a market town and extremely attractive, with many old buildings - not least the Abbey and the two churches of St John the Baptist and St Benedict. We wander around enjoying the ambience.

    It has surpassed expectations.
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  • 11. Lyme Regis

    24 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Lyme Regis - "the pearl of Dorset" - lies on Lyme Bay and is close to the border between Dorset and Devon; it is part of the Jurassic Coast and its beaches and Blue Lias cliffs are noted for fossils.

    We park at Woodmead Halls and a short stroll along the River Lym brings us to the Town Mill: this is a 1340 watermill and still works, thanks to being rescued by volunteers in the 1990s. We walk along the Marine Parade to Monmouth Beach and the East Cliff Beach for a cursory look for fossils. Next is The Cobb; this harbour wall dates originally from 1328 and is very famous due to John Fowles' "The French Lieutenant's Woman" - super views. We walk back along the parade to the "cultural quarter" comprising the Museum, Guildhall and Gun Cliff (home to the town's battery of defensive cannons from Elizabethan times).

    We pass St Michael's Church on our way to Broad Street, the heart of Lyme Regis with its many independent shops. We walk around the Langmoor and Lister Gardens; these are high up and there are great views of the Cobb from here. Then it is back via Sherborne Lane to the car park.
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  • 10. Charmouth

    24 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    It is a short drive to the town of Charmouth and we visit the Heritage Coast Centre with its wonderful display of fossils found on the beach - including the Ichthyosaur which starred in the TV documentary "Attenborough and the Sea Dragon". Typical fossils found here are small, bullet shaped belemnites and small, spiral shaped ammonites; we explore the beach at low tide and search for them - with a little success....

    We enjoy good views from the beach of Golden Cap to the East and Lyme Regis to the West.
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  • 9. West Bay to Golden Cap

    23 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We leave West Bay via West Cliff, above the Esplanade; whereas the East Cliff is composed mainly of Bridport Sand, the West Cliff is composed mainly of the younger Frome Clay and has a much different look. We walk down to Eype Mouth and cross this to walk along the cliff face of Monarchs Way to Thorncombe Beacon. The path then goes along Doghouse Hill and descends down Ridge Cliff to Seatown.

    Seatown is a coastal hamlet just south of Chideock and Golden Cap - at 191m, the highest cliff on the south coast of England - is only one mile west. We walk up the steep slope to the the top of Golden Cap; it is named from the distinctive outcrop of golden greensand rock at the top of the cliff. There are great views at the top in both directions.

    We descend to St Gabriel's mouth and then double over the small river via the remnants of St Gabriel's Chapel; the old village of Stanton St Gabriel was situated here, but abandoned two centuries ago. We pass Langdon Wood on our way back to Seatown.
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  • 8. West Bay

    23 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    West Bay, also known as Bridport Harbour, is situated 1.5 miles south of Bridport at the mouth of the River Brit. It is a small town that developed as a result of rope and net trade from Bridport, but this declined and it then developed as a resort due to the (now disused) railway station there. It forms the western end of Chesil Beach which extends from Portland Bill 18 miles to the east and is famed for its towering, crumbling, golden cliffs - it was been used as the location for the TV series "Broadchuch" (which is excellent).

    We are staying in an apartment here and, after exploring the attractive town (harbour and harbour walls, church etc) set off on a circular walk to nearby Burton Bradstock. We skirt the Bridport and West Dorset Golf Couse and a static caravan / camping site (there are several of these in the area) to reach Burton, before heading down to Hive Beach for lunch. We walk back along the top of Burton Cliffs, then via Burton Freshwater (where the small River Bride meets the sea) and finally along the top of East Cliff back to West Bay to enjoy some local beer (Palmers, which is brewed in Bridport).
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  • 7. Chesil Beach

    22 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Chesil Beach, aka Chesil Bank, has its name derived from the Old English word for gravel or shingle; it is a "barrier beach" and one of only 3 shingle beach structures in the UK. It is 18 miles long and runs from the Isle of Portland to West Bay. Behind it is a shallow, tidal lagoon formed from ice-age meltwater known as The Fleet which is home to many wading birds.

    We reach via the coastal road along the Ridgeway and enjoy good views. We walk for a while on the shingle beach and can see St Catherine's Chapel, originally part of the monastery in Abbotsbury, from here. Later on we enjoyed views of Chesil Beach, and some of the old coastal defenses, from a viewpoint at the Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens (see next post).
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  • 6. The Isle of Portland

    21 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The Isle of Portland is a tied island linked to the mainland by a barrier beach (Chesil Beach); traffic moves between the two via a bridge over the Fleet Lagoon. Portland is split into two geological areas; Underhill, a steep escarpment of Portland Sand in the north, and Tophill, a shallow angle decline of Portland Stone to sea level at Portland Bill.

    We stop off at the Tout Quarry Nature Reserve and Quarry Park. It is an abandoned 40 acre stone quarry park with stunning views of Chesil Beach and Portland Harbour and also many sculptures made on the Portland stone blocks (including Anthony Gormley's "Still Falling)); Portland stone has been used for the construction of many famous buildings, including St Paul's Cathedral.

    Portland Bill is a narrow promontory where there have been many shipwrecks over the centuries; it is an important way point for coastal traffic and there have been lighthouses here since 1716 - the current lighthouse dates from 1906. Portland Bill is a popular tourist destination.

    We visit Portland Castle next; grandly named, it is a fan shaped artillery fort built by Henry VIII as part of his defence programme against France and the Holy Roman Empire.
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  • Abbotsbury - Swannery and Gardens

    21 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Abbotsbury Swannery has the only managed colony of Mute Swans in the world and is situated on a 2 acre site on the western end of The Fleet. There are two nice walks and we see lots of swans, a decoyman's house and a decoy (used for catching duck and swan which were tempted to enter and then forced down, often with the aid of a dog). The Swannery was originally established in the 11th century be Benedictine Monks who used the swans for lavish feasts; since the dissolution, however, it has been under the stewardship of the Ilchester Estates.

    The Abbotsbury Subtropical Gardens are situated nearby on a 20 acre site in a wooded and sheltered valley; the microclimate is good for many exotic plants. We see these as we walk through the walled garden, jungle glade, southern hemisphere garden etc and following the Woodland Sculpture Trail; this celebrates characters from classic literature. An excellent visit!
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  • Abbotsbury - Village

    21 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Abbotsbury is very pretty with many old, stone houses and a number of notable buildings. We stop off on our way to the Swannery.

    What became Abbotsbury Abbey was originally established in the 11th century as the Benedictine St Peter's Monastery. It was large and self-sufficient with all its needs met by its market garden produce and swans from its nearby Swannery. As it grew, the Abbotsbury Abbey Tithe Barn was built around 1400 to store its supplies (it is the world's largest tithe barn), as were St Catherine's Chapel, used by the monks for private prayer, and the Parish Church of St Nicholas. The Abbey was destroyed by King Henry VIII during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in 1536 ; only one small section of the wall plus an entrance gate, both close to the Church, remain.Leia mais

  • 5. Weymouth

    21 de junho de 2021, Inglaterra ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Weymouth is a seaside town situated on a sheltered bay at the mouth of the River Wet halfway along the Jurassic Coast; built on weak rock, it has been protected by a barrier beach (Chesil Beach) and the limestone of the nearby Isle of Portland.

    Weymouth Beach faces Weymourh Bay and has a small fun fair on it; the Esplanade is full of Geogian Architecture and features the Queen Victoria Jubilee Clock. We walk through the town centre via the pedestran only St Mary's Street and cross the Tower Bridge to the southern part of town; this bridge can be raised to link the outer and inner harbours. The harbour was once used for cross channel ferries, but is now used for commercial fishing and private boats. We walk through Brewer's Quay, named for a converted Victorian brewery, to Nothe Fort; this is a historic sea fort built to protect the harbour, but is now a coastal museum.

    Our first visit to Weymouth and it has not disappointed.
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