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Italy 2022
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    20 апреля 2022 г.
    JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Italia, eccomi!

    20 апреля 2022 г., Соединенные Штаты ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    I'm at PDX enjoying my preflight Bob & Harry at Country Cat. Getting through the baggage check was a bit of a mess. I stood in the domestic line, then was told to go to the international line. While in the international line, an agent was checking to make sure everyone was in the right line. I said, "where were you when I was in the other line?" She asked me who sent me away. I got up to the desk, after another 15 minutes and the guy said that I could have used the premium line, and then asked me who sent me. Something tells me that "the woman with the braids" is going to get a talking to!

    Security was a breeze and I have 20 before boarding!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Rome!

    21 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I'm currently on the platform waiting for the Leo Express. We landed about 45 minutes ago. Immigration was fast and my bag only took a few minutes. Then it was a pit stop before heading to the train station. I think the train is delayed, so I may be here for a while.

    The flight was fine. I did have a large person next to me, but they didn't squish too bad into my seat. I watched the rest of House of Gucci and fell asleep watching Respect. I really didn't sleep too much and am tired now.

    I'm now on the train and there was a lot of confusion on which track. I think a lot of people got on the wrong train. Anyway, this one leaves in 2 minutes and takes about 40 minutes. Next stop Termini!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Termini

    21 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    I missed my train to Orvieto after a gallant effort. I ran for about 3 minutes, but saw the train leaving. It was on one of the "est" tracks that is about a 1/4 mile walk...or run. I went to the ticket office and the very nice customer service woman fixed me up.

    But now I won't get to Orvieto until after 5pm tonight. I have an hour to kill here, and don't really feel like exploring. Then I have an hour in Orte, where I change trains. I'm going to plan better for the way back to Rome!

    I ended up getting some food, even though I wasn't hungry. The Ciao Ristorante has closed 😞. Now it's a bunch of little restaurants, including Five Guys! I ate a little bistro totally aimed at tourists. But it was okay for 17 €.

    I am on the train and ready for my next leg.    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Orvieto, at last

    21 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    The train ride from Orte to Orvieto was only about a half hour. When I arrived,there wasn't a bus and it was raining. The funicular wasn't there either. I looked up the bus schedule and it was 10 minutes away. After a fee minutes, I decided to take a taxi.

    The hotel is small, but comfortable. My room is really small, but it works--except for the ledge I keep stubbing my toe on! I'm on the 1st floor (2nd?) in a room overlooking the street.

    Orvieto is like any other hill town in Italy--that is not a bad thing! I don't know why I thought Corso Cavor would be a busy street. It is cobblestone, narrow, twisting strada.

    I settled into the room and relaxed for about and hour and a half. My ankles and feet were swollen, so I elevated them for a bit. At about 6:30pm I got dressed to walk around. It had stopped raining, but it was cold. I was trying to find a Enoteca that had charcuterie. My navigation skills, even with Google maps, is still awful. But I get to see more that way, right? I passed the duomo, which is beautiful. Then I found an overlook of the surrounding countryside. Wow.
    I finally found the restaurant and it was closed.

    Backtracking, I found another place that looked similar and went in. I had a mixed plate with salami, prosciutto, cheese and a toast with patè. And a glass of Orvieto Classico! It was about 9pm when I headed back. A gentleman stopped my to ask a question, in Italian, and I answered that my Italian was really bad! Honestly, at that point, my English wasn't working either.

    So I survived the day!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Wandering Orvieto

    22 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    After the tower I kept wandering the streets. I made use of my city pass and saw 2 archeological museums and the pozzo della cava. It was interesting, but small. The best part was when the older gentleman had me look at a plexiglass area that was over a deep part. I ended up having a coffee and relaxing.

    I was heading to the hotel, when I saw an Intemessi underpants shop and had to take a picture for Heather. It led me to a cool, vine covered street. I stopped at FE03, which was a wine bar. I decided to get a spritz. There was a woman at another table, Amy, who is from Baltimore. She's with a group, but was off on her own for awhile. We chatted until she had to leave.

    On my way home I got my first gelato of the trip, which with the bar snacks, was perfect for lunch. Back at the hotel, I asked for dinner recommendations and headed to my room for a quick nap.

    I am off to my 4:30 Orvieto Underground tour.    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Orvieto underground

    22 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    The tour was interesting. The caves were originally wells for the Etruscans 300 BC. The Romans killed all the Etruscans and filled in the wells. Then in the 12th century, they built the city out of the tufa rocks. It was a papal city--never run by dukes. But in both eras, they were an escape and water source when they were under siege. In the medieval times they raised pigeons for food, and there are holes for nesting.

    The tour took about an hour. I learned about a trail around the walls that I may do tomorrow.

    After the tour, I walked around and looked at potential place for dinner. Time for a short break...    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Pozzo San Patrizio

    23 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    I woke up early to have breakfast and get out and about. I heard that Orvieto gets crowded on Saturdays. Boy are they right! The street in front of my hotel has street vendors set up along the whole way between the duomo and the city wall.

    There was a short line at the well, but I got in quickly. It is 497 steps to the bottom. Not steep, but a lot! The views from the windows were great. A lot of people did the "run to a window across the way and get a picture. I couldn't do that, but I did have a few people take my picture.

    The way back up was a little harder, but it was a gentle slope. I guess if you had to carry water up all those stairs, steep would be bad!

    Afterwards, I discovered a park along the old ramparts, and ruins of an old Etruscan temple. Great views, but overrun with teenage tourists.

    Time to see the duomo!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Duomo di Orvieto

    23 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After seeing the crowds pouring into the city, I figured that I should see the inside of the duomo soon. When I got there, there were crowds outside. Well dressed crowds. It was people there for a wedding!

    The inside of the church is absolutely beautiful. Not sure how to describe-- cohesive? There was a chapel with frescoes of heaven and hell. The best part was that people painting under those pictures seemed to be watching or commenting on what was going on above them.

    While I was walking around, the organ was playing and a singer was singing--presumably for the wedding. It was a nice treat. I was just getting ready to leave when he started singing Ave Maria. Wow... What an experience.    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Asolando

    23 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    After the duomo I walked all over the place. There is an escalator that goes to the base of the wall, so I checked it out. I think that is how you get to the trail around the city.

    I wandered aimlessly for a long time and found myself by one of the restaurants that was on my list. They didn't open until noon, so I rested on the city wall. But I realized that seating was inside, and it was too nice out.

    I walked to the restaurant that Sorrel recommended. I was the first customer and got a seat outside. It is a really nice day!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    More wandering in Orvieto

    23 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    After lunch, I made my way back to the hotel for a recharge. For me and my phone. It was the lowest my battery has gotten...maybe ever. I napped for a bit, then tried to figure out what to do. I had seen everything that I could on my city pass. I walked around and finally wound up at the same place I had the spritz before.

    Like everything else, it was crowded. I went in and was told to go outside. I had a spritz and met a couple from Sacramento. We were discussing Italian phrases and I mentioned to the server, who was there, that I said, "grazie," and he said, "you're welcome." I said that no one wants to hear my sorry-ass Italian, and he agreed. Ouch. I did laugh and at least I have confirmation!

    I came back briefly to change for dinner. I decided to try the place I looked at the night before. I got there and they were empty, and full. At least where I was concerned. Who knows, maybe they had reservations. But I'd like to have came back with someone else and tried. So I went to the place close to the hotel. They seated me at a table in the doorway. I had a 1/2 liter of wine, umbriacelli with truffle sauce, and pork. They brought me potatoes that I didn't order. Overall the service was awful.

    I walked towards the duomo and got my gelato. Chocolate and Crema. It was good and I was very full! Time for bed.

    Tomorrow...Rome!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Hotel Corso

    24 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    I'm having my final cappuccino here at Hotel Corso. The breakfast room is packed and I had to wait about 15 minutes for the table and the coffee. No coronetto--I am still full from yesterday! I took a shower before heading down--it is so small! My clothes are organized on my bed and I just need to fold and pack up. It shouldn't take too long. I need to schedule a taxi before I go upstairs.

    This has been a good stay. I don't need to come back here, at least not by myself . But I would recommend this hotel, for sure.    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Funicular

    24 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    It is difficult to get a taxi from the center to the station. They will not take a reservation. So I am taking the funicular.

    It cost 1.30€, so I'm saving about 12€. My suitcase gor stuck in the turnstile, which was interesting...

    The trip takes about 2 minutes and it was interesting when the trains passed at the halfway point. So here I am at the station, with 40 minutes until my train. I will enjoy the sunshine 🌞    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Rome--Trasveres Friends B&B

    24 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I arrived on time at Termini. I thought about having lunch at the station, but i still wasn't hungry I did take a taxi, as I didn't want to drag my bags on the bus.

    It took about 20 minutes to get here. This is a rough looking neighborhood, but close to a lot of things. The B&B is on the 4th floor of a low-rise building. The host is an older gentleman and I'm guessing, his wife. My room is next to the kitchen and has a shared balcony. There's a twin size bed, wardrobe, desk, and the bathroom is large.

    I unpacked and am charging my phone. I will head out and get some food and wine. I think I will stay in tonight--especially if it's raining!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Rome day 1

    24 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    I decided to head out, towards the Trevi Fountain, which is a 30 minute walk. I'm not sure if that accounts for the huge amounts of tourists!

    I was getting hungry and stopping for a gelato--dark chocolate and hazelnut.

    I found the crowded heart of Trastevere and kept found. I decided to stop at Campo dei Fiori. It was full of vendors and I looked for a pashmina made in Italy, but they are all from Nepal.

    My feet were hurting and I ended up stopping for a spritz on the piazza. No free snacks, so I ordered some olives, too. After a while, it started to look rain, and I did not have my umbrella.

    I stopped at a mini-mart for wine and food. The food ended up being cheese and prosciutto. It was raining lightly when I arrived home. I enjoyed the "picnic" on the balcony. I ended up going to bed really early!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Rick Steves Trastevere

    25 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    After breakfast, which consisted of coffee from a moka, a coronetto, some apricot tart, and some yogurt, I went back to the room/balcony to plan. Originally, I was planning to go to the Caracalla baths, but they are closed today. I checked my Rick Steves tours. There was a Trastevere one loaded and ready to go.

    I had to walk 20 minutes to the start. I found a place for a covid test, too. The tour started on the bridge over Isola Tiberina. The first big site is Chiesa Santa Cecilia. It was beautiful and had a bonus of an underground section of the original house. That was worth the 3€! Next was basically wandering though the neighborhood until we arrived at Basilica Santa Maria in Trastevere. This is the same place with the busy piazza yesterday. This church had very beautiful mosaics, but I'm sort of churched out.

    I was hungry and started to look for lunch. I pointed myself towards a place called Suppì, but it wasn't there. I ended up at a ace that was nearby. I just finished my 1st Pasta of Rome--Amatriciana.

    Now back home to change and recharge for the food tour!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Food Tour

    25 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    I was able to change the tour to the later, 6:30pm one. Boy, am I glad that I did!

    Backing up... It was an hour walk from my place to the meeting spot in Prati. I figured I'd be fine. But the pedestrian traffic was bad and I was running late. I get to the address I had, and no one is there. I looked and looked, and even tried to call. I messaged the company and finally received a call. I was at the morning tour spot. The place we where meeting was a 10 minute walk in the direction I just came from!

    I found the group and apologized profusely. I said every tour has one late person and this time it was me!

    We started at a café and fancy food shop. There was mozzarella alla buffala with sun-dried tomato paste, 3 types of bruschetta--olive oil, green pesto, and red pesto. But the cheeses were the best! Parmesano Reggiano with 28-year old balsamic vinegar. Next, a small toast with white truffle parmesan cream. Then Asiago with truffle honey, and finally a cheese with truffle paste. So delicious. I sat with 3 Germans, who were there with 3 others, for a birthday trip.

    The next stop was for Roman pizza, which has a thicker crust than traditional Italian pizza. There were many choices and I picked mortadella with some sort of cream. We all shared the bite-sized pieces of many varieties. My pick, and the one with speck, were my favorites. All good, though! We were standing, and I met the gay couple, Brian and ?. I also met a couple from NJ who just relocated to OKC. Then there was Louise, from Dublin--another solo traveler.

    Next we went to a pizzeria with more traditional pizza. We also had a selection of cured meats and more cheeses. There was a red rind one that was delicious. At that place Paolo took our orders for dinner at the last stop.

    By the time we arrived at the restaurant, we were all a little rowdy. I'm sure it was the pizza, not the wine... I sat at the table with the English speakers. Including a weird couple from LA/San Diego. They were pawing each other and she almost seemed like an escort. Didn't talk to them much. We had out pasta, carbonara for me--2 down! The Brian and partner were an absolute riot, as was Louise. We asked for a candle for Catherine's dessert and sang happy birthday to her. We had so much wine, and there was talk of going somewhere else. But we all jumped in cabs and headed home.    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Meandering through Rome

    26 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    I had a slow start this morning--I'm sure it was the pizza... Hauling myself out of bed at 9:30, I had my coronetto and torte with coffee. I couldn't speak Italian, for sure!

    I cleaned up (no hot water in shower?) and got dressed to walk to the Caracalla Baths. It was going to take 45 minutes, but I took twice that long. I started in Testaccio and recognized the area from 2019. I even found the starting place of my tour. I kept going, stopping in a park, in the San Saba neighborhood, and getting turned around several times.

    I walked around the outside of the park until I finally found the entrance!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Terme di Caracalla

    26 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    This place was huge! It is comprised of a large garden and then the baths. I walked around the garden, some of which I realized was part of the building at one time.

    There is not much to say, except I took a lot of pictures!

    Afterwards I walked to the Jewish Ghetto, taking the road along the Circus Maximus. The weather is absolutely perfect!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Artichokes!

    26 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    I found a table at a place that has 4+ stars on Yelp. I decided on the fried artichokes and then finish my pasta quest with the cacio e pepe.

    It was very good and I enjoyed watching the owner clean artichokes by the front door.

    Afterwards, I headed home--but stopped for gelato. Orange almond and chocolate orange. Perfetto!    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Plan B

    26 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    I arrived at my room, ready to nap before dinner. I had a text that the dinner was canceled! The one thing i really wanted to do. Okay...plan B.

    I headed towards the piazza, for a place called Ottello's. It turned out to be packed, with a long line. So I wandered aroundand found a cramped little table at Mimi e Coco Tras. I walked up and said that I was solo and I'll take that table. That worked!
    I sat next to a cute family that was speaking English and German. There was a boy, around 8 years old, who was cracking me up. Eventually I found out that she's from New Zealand and he's from Switzerland, which is where they live. The boy told me all about the Trevi Fountain.

    I had just paid my check and who do I see? Bryan and the doctor! The funny thing was that I had a premonition that I would see them again... We walked around and chatted, winding up at the Piazza Maria. I have their info and hopefully we will FB friend. They headed to Trevi Fountain and I headed home.    Читать далее

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  • JcrieffItaly 2022Путешественник

    Acqua Paola

    27 апреля 2022 г., Италия ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    After breakfast I decided to walk up to the Fontana dell'Acqua Paola, since I missed it last night. It was a nice walk, with much of it on stair paths. The view was amazing, and the fountain as I remembered from 2019.

    I met some folks from the UK or Australia (I can never tell) that I did a group picture for. They invited me to sightsee with them! I passed, but what a nice gesture. Must be Aussies!

    I walked home a different way, through the more posh part of the town, ending up in the main district. I thought about stopping for lunch, but it was too early. I saw the covid test place, and picked up a form for tomorrow's test. I saw the suppí place and bought one for 2€ to bring home.

    Currently relaxing on the balcony with supplí, mozzarella, and some Orvieto Classico. Will leave soon for bike tour.    Читать далее

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