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Destination Asie
  • AliceAlain

Destination Asie

Follow us as we wend our way from Austria towards Turkey and the start of the East. En savoir plus
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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Dubronik's cathedral
    From Ston to Dubrovnik on the coast. Cultures of olive trees and vineyards right to the sea.Views out to yet more islandsTwo three-masted ships welcome us to Dubrovnik. (Evidently with engines and propellers)Arriving in the old town. Note the shining stones on the ground.The rector's palace.Night life in Dubrovnik.The old harbour in the morning.Looking back at Dubrovnik.

    Dubrovnik

    2 octobre 2023, Croatie ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Dubrovnik, c'était Ragusa durant moyen âge et renaissance. La vieille ville, en grande partie reconstruite après le tremblement de terre de 1667, est un ensemble homogène et vivant, que nous visitons de nuit avec délice. Les pavés de calcaire dur sont tellement polis par les chaussures des passants qu'ils brillent dans les lumières de la nuit.

    Le lendemain nous reprenons la route après un passage à la fontaine d'Onofrio pour remplir nos bouteilles d'eau très fraiche... Adieu la Croatie, à nous le Montenegro.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    The border crossing is right at the bottom
    Kotor bay developmentsQuieter coast line the next morningKotor townIn Kotor, architectural feast. How to build à street and a tower on the same spaceBirds eye view down to Kotor and Kotor bayOur camp terraceSunset over mountainsKotor bay at night

    Kotor bay

    4 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We exit Dubrovnic on EuroVelo route 8 - it's the only route heading south. It's pretty much the most risky ride we have ever cycled. When a lorry honks just behind your left ear at 90 km hour on a busy narrow road it’s probably best to move off the road (once you have finished jumping out of your skin). We were both shaken when finally we had a choice and found a quieter scenic route along the coast to the Montenegro border crossing.
    Just around the corner, our first view of the much acclaimed Kotor bay. Our hearts sink. The shores are lined with apartments, hotels, and sea resorts. Beautiful waters, backset by mountains, but we just had not expected so much development.
    The next morning, we cross on the free ferry to find a quieter route along the shore, then pay a brief visit to Kotor. A beautiful walled town with too many tourists for Alice.
    Now it's time to head up the mountain. It's a long but well graded climb with stupendous views back to the bay and to the seas. We make steady progress buoyed by the scenery.
    And just as we are trying to figure out where to spend the night, a tiny campsite perched above the viewpoint “free for cyclists”. It has tiny terraces that have been covered in astroturf (turns out to be surprisingly comfortable if ecologically wanting). There is a restaurant attached which we plan to use for dinner - but which, counter to google-info, shuts just before we walk down. We hastily pick up water and cook from our supplies. The sunset and the night lights below are a wonder to behold.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Alain patriotically wears the montenegro flag colour
    Locven national parkCetinje monasteryWall painting of the fountain of lifeRoad worksThe empty new road in the middle of nowhereBumping along the contoursThe long descent

    Off the beaten track in Montenegro

    5 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    One of the things we love about cycle touring is how things change and progress with the miles. You turn a corner, summit a pass or cross a river and suddenly the rocks change, the houses are different, the view, the signs or the language is new. Sometimes it is a slow subtle shift over several days. Sometimes, like today, there are many distinctly different phases.
    Phase 1, we complete the climb out of Kotor. Then we are into a new phase the Locven national park. A new set of views and scenery including a lot of scorched-looking vegetation- from the summer heat wave perhaps. Next a descent into the royal capital of Montenegro, Cetinje, for a lunchtime wander.
    The afternoon sees us climbing out of town and we sigh with relief when we turn off the main road onto a small pot-holed lane. It does not last long. A notice annouces major road works and 2 minutes later the road is blocked with a large pile of dirt and an adept and speedy bulldozer hard at work. 25 mins later we are allowed through and soon find ourselves on a surreal huge new road which has been ploughed through the middle of nowhere and is completely empty. Its ugly and very much quicker than the old road - but as we are behind schedule and dark comes early, this is perhaps no bad thing.
    Another turn and we now have quiet rural scenes. We climb a bumpy road that then contours around the hilltop before we descend, descend, descend into the flat main valley and the refreshingly untouristy town of Danilovgrad. Here Alain deftly sorts us some rooms and we manage to find real homemade Montenegrin veal knuckle and cabbage stew for dinner.
    It feels like more than just one day.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Ostrog monastery dating back to 1665
    1Its a long hard climb from the valleyNew and older monastery buildingsJust a tiny part of the huge blanket supplySet up for the nightFellow pilgrimsNighttime view from our mattressCliffs and stars abovePrayer card (in cyrillic) given to us as we leave

    Pilgrims at Ostrog

    6 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Would you sleep under the stars at a monastery given the chance?

    Ostrog is a Serbian orthodox monastery and a site of pilgrimage. It is perched high above the valley, and deftly tucked in under the base of huge limestone cliffs. Its a spectacular location.

    The monastery provides blankets and mattresses and its free to sleep out.
    We pick our spot and set up for the night. Alain chatting to our neighbours of varying Serbian origins. After an early evening outdoor service, pilgrims start to settle for the night. We lie looking up at the night-lit monastery, the cliffs and the stars above, a gentle breeze on our faces, conscious of all those many pilgrims that have paused here over the centuries.
    The night is not long, with many up at 5am. The 6am outdoor morning service is graced with the crescent moon above and the sun about to rise. We quietly leave in the early morning as yet more pilgrims arrive.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Bike on the steppe, between Nikšić and Šavnik
    Morning light, descending from the monastery1The Emperor's bridge.Arriving on the plateauLots of grass, a few potato plots and windmillsPotato harvestWall of sheep and goats building up between usWe survived separation and reached the Kmovo passGorges of Bukovica river aheadLong distance sight of Durmitor mountains

    Montenegro heights

    7 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We are off from Ostrog before 7:00, with no other breakfast than just a coffee and a hot chocolate from the vending machine. Good news: the tough climb to the Monastry has turned into a wonderful descent (is that the miracle?).

    The road next hugs huge limestone cliffs on one side, climbing gently towards a horizon of higher mountains. There is nothing better than a great view on an empty stomach. Finally, we arrive in the wide upper valley of the Zeta river. A superb bridge, a gift of the Russian emperor Nicolas II to Montenegro, will finally allow us to sit for breakfast in the sun.

    Now begins another world. On a little country road, we are in the bush, uphill as most of the time. We meet groups of hunters, the occasional tractor, very old and stinky cars. As we get higher, the views open until we arrive on a high steppe, with some fields of potatoes, windmills, but mostly wide expanses of grass and rocks. Here be goats and sheep. They think we need a rest from pedalling and tangle nicely with us, bringing everything to a complete stop. The shepherdess, classic with scarf, a long black skirt and a stick, comes to the rescue with her big white dog.

    After the pass around 1500m, we discover, in the far distance, a landscape of deep gorges and high bare peaks, the Durmitor mountains. Our foreseen accommodation in Šavnik is closed. With no alternative, Alain asks at the grocery shop, where only Montenegrin is spoken, and gets the name of a campsite written on an old receipt. After 200m of climb too many, we have a wonderful meadow for ourselves, a cold-cold shower (also only for ourselves!), and ice on the tent in the morning. This is cycle touring at its best.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Stecci medieval tombstones on high grassland
    Autumn colours are showing1Beautifully circular stockpile of wood for winterHigh grasslandsViews over to DurmitorBeautiful carved StecciOur camping spot

    Medieval Stecci

    8 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Today we are off “Up” once more, heading towards Durmitor National park. We pass yet more people gathering and chopping wood for the winter, as we have seen so often over the last weeks. The roads are quiet and wonderfully scenic - perfect for cycling.

    Higher up we are on great grassy wild open spaces with views over to the Durmitor mountains. We decide to avoid the touristy town and instead cross another grassy moor to visit the Stecci, carved medieval tombstones and UNESCO monuments. All the more arresting for their location in such a beautiful setting.

    Its a perfect place for rough camping. We tuck ourselves out of sight just a few hundred metres away from the Stecci and pass a quiet night in a wonderful place.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Dramatic colors in the Tara River valley
    Here they are, down there: the gorges of the Tara River (Kanion Tare in Montenegrin)Tara bridgeThe run down bridge is very scary. One step at the time, holding on the decaying concrete railing1Can you see the raft?The gorgeThe river, 25km upstream...This tributary has dug its home in the karst.Decorated bicycles in the morning dew

    Kanion Tare

    9 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Ayant choisi de n'être vus par personne le soir, nous ne voyons au matin que l'herbe jaune et du ciel bleu. C'est très beau.
    Nous continuons sur le plateau, jusqu'à la route qui nous emmènera vers la gorge de la Tara, belle rivière qui prend sa source dans les "Montagnes Maudites" pour aller joindre ses eaux au Danube bien plus au nord.

    Le pont de la Tara, un chef d'oeuvre d'avant guerre (1937) en ciment armé, est superbe vu de loin. Élancé, il domine la rivière de 173 m. Vu de près il est tout decrépi, le ciment et le tablier craquelés nous inspirent un formidable vertige. À côté passent plusieurs tyroliennes (zip lines) où l'on entend des cris stridents et des grands rires. En dessous, les rafteurs sont tout minuscules.

    Une grand route, supposée fermée, mais où l'on passe quand même, remonte doucement le long des gorges. C'est un peu comme un hybride entre les Gorges d'Heric pour la végétation abondante, et les gorges du Tarn pour la longueur et le calcaire. En tout cas c'est magnifique, d'autant qu'en route le ciel se couvre et le vent se lève, avec un effet dramatique.

    Après trois nuits sous les étoiles, nous nous trouvons, à Majkovac, un cottage à 30€ pour nous permettre, entre autres, une petite lessive.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Cooking dinner on our troublesome stove
    The railway viaductWill the whole cliff fall off?HaystacksGolden bracken1A view to revel inDinner timeSunset coloursMorning light

    Trešnjevik pass

    10 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Todays ride is up and only up. The further we get the steeper it is. Luckily it is relatively flat for quite some time. We pedal alongside the Tara river and the railway line and then up a tributary. Colours of autumn are more and more evident and the bracken is golden. Our plan is to rough camp at the top, which was perhaps a little optimistic as there is little flat ground, but we find a quiet flat corner with a wonderful view to delight in.En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Obituary notices... colours for religion/ethnicity: Red>Albanian, Green>Moslem, Black>Orthodox
    The red brackenMonument in honour of WW2 Partisans from the 6 Yougoslavian regionsNear the monument, an elm was planted...The chapel of an ancient monastery is being carefully restored.The ford that we could not ford. Back a few km.From our terrace: Plav roofs and minaretLate afternoon view of Plav's lakeStill life in Plav: well dressed student running to schoolIn the oldest mosque, we admire the thick carpet and the beautiful calligraphy.

    "We love each other"

    12 octobre 2023, Monténégro ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    From Trešnjevik pass, we tumble down the hill, first among fall colours, then back into summer heat and sun and farmland.

    We encounter a monument in memory of patriots from several wars, including 600 Partisans and 900 civilians killed during WWII. The joined pillars symbolise the 6 former republics of Yugoslavia joining hands. Near the monument, several trees were planted. One of them is an elm (un orme). Elms have almost been wiped out in western Europe by disease. Alain finds the symbolism very touching.

    Plav is situated in a high plain, near a quiet lake surrounded by broad mountains. We are looking forward to our reserved room at the irresistibly named "The Bear Hug". After a minor fiasco (un embrouillamini), involving finding another couple in our reserved bed, we move to a charming villa run by a moslem family. We have a great terrasse with view on the lake and the several minarets in this largely moslem town. Our dirty laundry is graciously washed and hung to dry. Of course, this is the muslim world, so we take off our shoes before crossing the door; and the call to prayer by the muezzin fills the air thrice a day, including 6:00 am.

    At the tourist office, the lady shows us the locations of the 3 mosques and the church. We naively ask: "Any issues?" NO, she says emphatically, WE LOVE EACH OTHER!    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    At the Čakor pass
    Despite the beauty, litter is a huge problemBeautiful scenery and coloursWe may make it yetAfter the pass; first sight of Kosovo in the far distance!An Alain treeBorder tobleronesThe gorgeLast afternoon light in the gorge.

    A disputed border

    13 octobre 2023, Kosovo ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We are off to cross the Accursed Mountains (les Montagnes Maudites) via the Čakor pass. It's a non-standard (foot and cycle only) border crossing into Kosovo - it was a road but was shut off during the war. It remains a disputed border. We come prepared with a special police permit which arrives just in time.
    This is our highest pass so far on this trip (1844m) and it feels a hard climb. The pass itself is actually not the border and the monténégrin land on the far side is essentially the middle of nowhere. We descend alone into the wonderful quiet and are a bit taken aback when a police car arrives. They demand and then carefully inspect our permit before waving us on.
    A few minutes more and its anti-tank toblerones and the Kosovo border. From there deep, shaded and impressive gorges (also rather chilly) bring us into the vibrant city of Pejë.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Cemetery in a village. There are many Albanian flags around in this part of Kosovo
    Shop where our bikes are rejuvenatedWest Kosovo landscape. A rich plain surrounded by mountains up to 2600m highMosque in a little village.Huge doors, often in wood, close properties and barns.Arriving in Giacova, dominated by a new Catholic churchExotic electric wires are now a featureBy a little passage, we access the quiet mosque gardenNear the entrance, water to wash feet and handsInside Giacova's mosque. One last photo, the evening prayer soon starts.

    And we cycled in Kosovo...

    14 octobre 2023, Kosovo ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Pejë (en albanais, Peya en français ou english, Peč en serbo-croate) est une ville super-active, embouteillée et... pas très propre. Il y a quand même une zone pietonne pour le Bazaar. Le soir, nous découvrons au resto un fort bon cabernet-sauvignon Kosovar. Au matin, un remarquable réparateur fait la revue de nos vélos en 15 minutes pour 10€! Au bord de la route, des vieux paysans vendent sur le trottoir des courges de toutes formes et couleurs, pommes, prunes, onions, patates, etc., devant des hyper-machins tout neufs.

    Nous parcourons la campagne avec nos yeux grand ouverts. Les minarets des villages contrastent avec les faisceaux de cables électriques aériens. Les immenses portes de granges sont souvent en bois superbe. Des grosses cylindrées noires rutilantes côtoient la carriole à âne, ou la vieille Yugo. Lors de nos arrêts, des gens curieux et sympa vienent nous faire la conversation; l'albanais est la langue majoritaire du Kosovo, et nous n'y comprenons rien; on se débrouille.

    Nous arrivons à Giacova assez tôt pour parcourir à pied le fameux Bazaar et admirer des robes de mariée d'un calibre généreux. Visite à la mosquée très accueillante, en babouches, bien sur.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Mosque ceiling
    What a wonderful bridge. Restored by the UNChatting with the football teamPollution from smoke is a common sightArriving in Prizren to lunchtime prayersThe Sinan Pasha mosqueInside the mosquePrizren townThe Shah mountains from the hotel

    Prizren

    15 octobre 2023, Kosovo ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The morning is spent crossing the flat agricultural plain. Its a bit unloved with litter strewn all along the roadside and regular dark plumes of smoke (burning of rubbish and burning off the field stubble).

    Today we are joined at our 11ish snack by a cheerful age-12 football team, some of whom have pretty good english. Its hard not to like the Kosovars. The muslim albanians are more welcoming, interactive and friendly than other countries thus far. Nevertheless, on the whole they are a bit suspicious/ skeptical/ negative about their country. It is clear that Kosovo’s problems are far from solved.

    In the town of Prizren we arrive to the lunchtime competition of the mosque prayers - somehow rather endearing. But this cheerful muslim town hides a sad recent history in which 20,000 Serbians ended up leaving their homes with only 20 now remaining. We make a quick visit to the Mosque and it's time to start the climb along the gorge up into the Shah mountains national park to a hotel with a marvelous view.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Kosovan Liberation Army monument
    EU, Albanian and Kosovo flagsAutumn in the Shah mountiansFalling down buildings are commonPicking up supplies in VitinaBurnt off stubbleCamped out in Kosovo

    Goodbye Kosovo

    17 octobre 2023, Kosovo ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Today we will finish climbing the pass in the Shah mountains and then descend back to the plains before ascending a valley close to the Serbian border ready to cross into North Macedonia. Its now autumn, the colours are increasing each day and it is cooler in the mornings.

    The first pass is not so far and we note the presence of the UN K force at the top. On the descent, the dual language signs all have the Albanian part scored out and we are soon in a rather downbeat Serbian village. Its sad to sense the on-going tensions and provocations. New churches and mosques ring of one upmanship. Monuments are one sided and we hardly ever see a Kosovo flag without an Albanian flag beside it.

    Pedalling on there is much smoke today with many fields being burnt off. Our plan is to rough camp due to lack of other alternatives. Attempt 1 is vetoed by Alice as having too much smoke. In the end we tumble into a small field down from the road just as light falls. We cook in the dark.

    The next morning we are up at dawn and covering the final miles to the border crossing into North Macedonia just as it starts to pelt down. There is unanimous agreement that we might as well call it a day and hole up in the dry in Kumanovo town at the bottom of the hill.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Nature´s creation, how long will it last?
    The long straight Turkish road from Kumanovo...The road is interupted with a destroyed bridgeTrying to avoid the main road......we end up in high dry grass and mud, with sheep and shepherdAlice, why ain't you moving?solid blocks of dry grass and mud stop us for more than an hourThe Stone Town of KuklicaThe stone family

    The stone town of Kuklica

    18 octobre 2023, Macédoine du Nord ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    When Martin Krstic saw us arrive all wet in his house in Kumanovo, he had a desperate look on his face: a power cut, I’ve called up for repairs, but you can’t stay here! Being cold and tired and having called four places unsuccessfully, we just said: "don't worry we will sit here and wait". The power was fixed an hour later, and we were even offered a glass of local red wine by our host, who was celebrating his new business with his parents.

    It cleared up in the morning, and we pushed on due east towards Krakovo. The cycle-friendly itinerary was an absolutely straight old Turkish road through the hills... with a surprise in the middle of an un passable broken bridge. In its lovable effort to keep us off busy roads, our optimistic cycling app sends us off into the high grass. A mix of mud and straw is a well-known building material and does no good at all in the mudguards! Our magic tool purchased in Kosovo just-in-case found an unexpected application, but it still took more than one hour to escape.

    In the later afternoon sun, our pedals lead us to a magical world of natural sculptures made of volcanic ash.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Arriving in Kratovo in the evening, a square tower and a very steep cobble street welcome us.View from one of the kratovo towers showing the town nestled in the craterKratovo houseThe old town house where we stay2The cats and kittens are determined to get inOff road descentMountain sceneryToo gravelly to ride

    Riding the crater

    19 octobre 2023, Macédoine du Nord ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Kratovo means crater, not a surprising name since the town is located in the crater of an old volcano. Its historic wealth and importance was due to the precious metals that were mined there (also thanks to the Volcano) and then turned into coins. The town is known for its towers, built to protect against the Ottomans (it didn’t work) and for its more recent bridges. The owner of the old town house where we stay (whose interior remains of an earlier era) is the town historican and gives us a tour of town and one of the old towers before we leave.
    The climb out of the crater is steep and long. Its a relief to get to the top. We are following high back roads, not all of which are paved and some of which are very rutted and steep and tricky to stay upright on. We get to see some quiet tracks past farms and old rickety houses. We pass a silver mine and happily recover tarmac, then pedal through old out-of-the-way villages. Another unexpected off-road section and we are heading back down past a monastery into « civilization » again.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    This old couple on their donkey-pulled carriage absolutely loved having their picture taken!
    Old housesWe admire the nice woodwork of the barnsPreparing breakfast at sunriseBye bye Drago!Our last mountain pass in MacedoniaThe sea of clouds over the valley. It sort of feels like home ;-)

    Camping high

    20 octobre 2023, Macédoine du Nord ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We start early from Vinica and quickly climb a narrow valley up to a 900m altitude high plain. This is agricultural land of centuries past. Houses are built of rough hard wood and/or mud, or homemade mud bricks.

    Further along, we arrive at our next-to-last pass of Macedonia and seek permission to pitch our tent. We meet "Baba Vita," a gentle grandma who seems very worried by our request, until she calls her son Drago to the rescue. These folks are so welcoming! We are shown around their land and find a perfect tent place with a view, plus a few irrepressibly playful cats, and the company of four free-range horses.

    After the goodbye hugs, we plunge into the descent and a sea of clouds.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Sandstone cliffs
    The mountains between Bulgaria and GreeceOld houses in MelnikSandstone towersPrecarious accessTake care!Spot the boulder (la demoiselle)

    България: spelling it out

    22 octobre 2023, Bulgarie ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Its a bit like being back in school. More and more of the language is written only in Cyrillic and requires laborious spelling out to try to understand (or google translate when it's all too much).
    If you haven’t already figured out the Cyrillic in the title, here is how it goes :

    Б=B, ъ= a/u, л =l, г = g, а=a (ha, easy) р=r, и=i, я=ya. Bulgaria :-).

    The first few hours of Bulgaria are not so enrolling, but as we start to climb, we find some striking sandstone formations with villages of traditional houses tucked in under the cliffs. Several of the sandstone towers are preposterously steep. We climb higher and then walk to visit the sandstone pyramids. The route is precarious, but the formations and views are stupendous.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Meeting the cows, with the bull raging down below...
    Starting the day with tunnel visionAn old lady and her goatsHuh huh a stream... ladies first.Yes we did it againCommunist looking shop in PirhinPirhin is a charming village. Sadly it is populated of very old peopleDoes this win the wiggliest route ever prize?Descending at lastWe were up there a few minutes ago!

    A hard leg

    23 octobre 2023, Bulgarie ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Other cyclists have left online comments that the « iron curtain road » (Euro Velo route 13 - planned but not completed) has a very difficult section where carrying bicycles would be needed. We therefore find an alternative further north that is marked as "paved and feasible." This is the core of our day plan. It starts by a steep concrete section and a tunnel, and a bit of dirt road that we confidently consider will be short.

    Several hours later...
    1. We realise that there are enough remains to conclude that a large part of the road was indeed paved, long ago;
    2. We have had to take our shoes off, to ford a stream;
    3. We had to push the bicycles up nearly impossible slopes;
    4. We are a great team, since both of us were needed to push and pull the bikes up absolutely impossible sections.

    Otherwise the ride is great, among sheep, goats and cows and their respective guarding dogs, and a solid sense of solitude. The raging gruntings of a bull in a nearby field causes the only real fear.

    By 13:30 we reach the little village of Pirhin. We still have 750 m of altitude left to climb, but the feeling of tarmac is delicious.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    One never knows when Alain will press the trigger
    On route to work with traditional brushesWhat a colourOne of a series of old bridges. Which animal is under the bridge?1Nearly a tunnelAdmiring the gorgeTraditional town of Siroka LakaRhodopian ( as in Rhodopi mountains) houses

    Autumn gorges

    25 octobre 2023, Bulgarie ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We are working our way through the Bulgarian Rhodopi mountains with more and more vibrant colours of autumn. There are long steady climbs and then cool quick descents. We find regular water and picnic points along the routes, something which we have not seen in other countries this tour.
    An impromptu detour reveals a narrow gorge that must be at an annual peak of beauty with wonderful autumn shades. Later, passing a small town of traditional houses, we decide that maybe we can be persuaded to defer the rough camping plan and spend the night in the town.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Our camping terraceSunrise1Happy breakfastCycling in the Rhodopi mountains. It's very wild and quiet.

    Enjoying the colors and the hills

    26 octobre 2023, Bulgarie ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    As we leave Siroka Laka, the morning is grey, and we remember why we stopped the night before... we have a climb to complete. The sun cuts through the clouds, and the ride becomes more and more enjoyable with a mix of colors and cliffs in the wilderness and solitude of the Rhodopi mountains.

    By the time our legs complete the second climb of the day, they are quite pleased that we find a little terrasse above the road to pitch the tent. From there we can see without being seen. Wild cherries, maple, beech, and walnut are very nice in the evening light. The sunrise is monumental.

    On our last full day in Bulgaria, we meet a young swiss cyclist pulling his little girl in a trailer. He moved to this country with his Bulgarian wife for a life with more opportunities of creation.

    We find a good place to spend the night. Alain's shockingly bad mastering of German (given 12 years of study) is put to task, this is the only common ground of understanding with the owner.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Not quite our usual stop!
    Last minaret in BugariaHello Greece (foreground)! Goodbye Bulgaria (behind)Moslem hospitality: Mehmet the garage owner sets out a full breakfast for us :-)Chicken soup, with distinctive and delicious seasoningAlain enjoyed soup and the Turkish coffeeAgricultural plains; Rhodopi mountains in the backgroundIn the gorges: we passed by this big square rock a minute agoMaple, oak, and limestoneLet's take that road!

    Two breakfasts!

    29 octobre 2023, Grèce ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    The question is, how shall we cross from Bulgaria into Turkey? Shall we do a longer leg in Bulgaria and a very short crossing of Greece? Or head south and cycle through some of the Greek mountains. It turns out we are just too tired to decide… time for a rest day!
    A day on and we are off again refreshed - direction Greece. Once over the border (on yet another pass) we descend to a flat warm agricultural plain with a possible glimpse of the Aegean sea. Greece smells different!
    We are off the tourist trail and on the hunt for a place to rough camp. Alain asks at a rural Petrol station if there might be somewhere near by and we are warmly invited to pitch the tent in his garden. Next morning, as we are packing up after breakfast, he arrives to open up, bringing with him our second breakfast - homemade chicken soup (with gas stove to reheat), salad, fresh rings of sesame bread and authentic Turkish coffee. Yum.
    We tackle the long climb into the mountains on a good and very quiet road. Once on the top Alain queries our route… why aren’t we taking this road next? And indeed, why not? It will take us into the national park and be more direct…
    We pedal on to the turn-off and realise that the new route is a dirt road. Hmmm.. shall we, shan’t we? We are here for the adventure, lets go!    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Blackened trees and a singed pine
    Map of extent of fire. With our approx route in blueBurnt forest as far as the eye can seeThis has all burnt. Curiously the leaves remainThe tops of many pines are still greenBlackened trunks and cleared forest floorIt goes on and onEven the road sign...

    The great fire

    30 octobre 2023, Grèce ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Unbeknownst to us, there was a huge fire in Northern Greece at the end of Aug 2023 shortly before we started pedalling. The fire was the biggest ever known in Europe and was burning for around 2 weeks with international teams trying to gain control. The fire started during an extended heat wave and was fueled by gale force winds. It burnt an area of 800 square kilometers, including more than 30% of the national park. It also killed 20 people, most of them thought to be illegal immigrants who had crossed the nearby border with Türkiye.

    When we set off on our mountain dirt road we had no idea we would spend the next 2.5 hours pedalling through newly burnt forests. It is not what we expected a burnt forest to look like. Some parts are completely blackened and charred. Much of the forest floor is burnt and the lower tree trunks are black, but the tree leaves are still in place, some green, some brown. Being autumn it is hard to tell the difference between singed leaves and end of season leaves. There are pine trees where the bottom is brown and the top green - we think because of the high winds. We can’t figure out how much of the area will quickly spring back to life. Or how much is a massive reset. It is sobering and saddening to see so much destruction. And it smells bad. We are relieved when finally it ends.    En savoir plus

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  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    The Evros riverLast push of the day on the dual carriagewaySaros bay (part of Aegean sea)Turkish landscape: the fields seem much bigger (and organized) than in the BalkansPolenta time1This dog took ownership of us for the night, apparently comfortable with our presence.First night in Turkey

    Türkiye

    31 octobre 2023, Turquie ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Les postes frontière entre la Grèce et la Turquie sont peu nombreux (2) et situés sur les autoroutes. Heureusement le logiciel cycliste Komoot nous trouve un petit chemin de terre qui nous amène à travers champs à une dizaine de mètres de la douane grecque, au milieu d'un gigantesque embouteillage de camions arrêtés. Nous nous faufilons le long d'une file de voitures qui font la queue, l'officier nous fait passer devant, et c'est tout bon!

    Le fleuve Evros (comme Europe) passé, nous voici devant la monumentale porte d'accès à la Turquie! Contrôle passeport, et hop, nous voici sur une voie express toute neuve, heureusement prévue avec un épaulement généreux (comme une voie d'arrêt d'urgence) utilisable par les vélos, et pratiquement vide. Les kilomètres défilent, nous sommes bientôt à Kesan. Nous cherchons une carte routière genre Michelin sans succès.
    Nous arrivons le soir au fond du golfe de Saros à Kocaşeşme, un village avec mosquée et cafés, mais sans hôtel, juste un petit port de pêche. Avec la benediction d'accueillants passants, nous campons au bord de la mer, le temps est calme. D'énormes explosions retentissent au loin, apparemment la flotte turque s'entraine; elle cesse au crépuscule.
    Un bon gros toutou nous adopte. Il nous protège sans doute d'une bande de chiens errants qui s'amusent bien, en cette nuit de pleine lune, dans un joyeux vacarme.
    Jusqu'ici, tout va bien.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    The motorway bridge across the straits
    Gallipoli penninsulaElectricity pylons converging for the crossingSinan Pasha memorial, GallipoliAsia in sightMemorial to turkish soldiersThe Dardanelle strait1Press the button to warn motorists there are 2 cyclists in the tunnel aheadEcebatOn the ferry

    Asia!!

    2 novembre 2023, Turquie ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Rather than try to cross into Asia via the mess of Istanbul, our plan has been to head down the Gallipoli peninsula and then cross the narrow channel of the Dardenelles into Asia. This being a rather strategic location it has seen its share of battles, most infamously from the first world war where the allies tried - and failed - to capture it, with huge loss of life on either side. So the rolling hills of the peninsula are dotted with memorials and forts. And there is an ongoing heavy presence of the turkish army. Turns out we are not allowed to picnic on a military pier. Sigh.
    The choice of roads leaves something to be desired. There is nothing in between a bumpy slow tiring dirt road and a relatively empty dual carriage way with a generous hard shoulder. We do a little dirt and then decide to rejoin the bigger road. It is faster but we slow as we have an increasing headwind. Four new tunnels sadly mean we miss out on a chunk of the coastal views as we arrive into Ecebat for the ferry to Asia.    En savoir plus

  • AliceAlainDestination AsieVoyageur
    Detail of the wall of Troy VI. The typical dimension of these blocks is 80cm high.
    The situation of the bay around Troy through ages. From overseeing the straight, to remote inland.The successive settlements (and civilisations) found in TroyReal cut view, as one can see in the excavations.Impressive gold hairpin!A toy found in a child's tombClassic: wild boar hunting on a horse, with two dogsAn ancient wall of Troy I, made of bricks, with a layer of newer bricks for protectionThe wall of Troy VI. The vertical staggerings are carefully carved in the stones. What for?A ramp with impressive pavement

    Troy

    2 novembre 2023, Turquie ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Looking at the map, we realize that the old city of Troy is really close to the Dardanelles and decide to visit this very famous place. More than nine cities were built on this remarkable site over thousands of years, each using the previous one as foundations. One of them (layer 6) has been identified as where the Trojan war took place. The UNESCO world heritage site comprises a museum and the open air excavated site.

    We remember the Trojan war from Homer: the Greek and Trojan heroes, the sleezy, the cuckold, the shrewd, and the brave, all helped by strong personnal connections to the Olympian gods; and the war's resolution with the Trojan Horse. In the museum, a revelation: Troy, in ancient times, was on the shores of the Dardanelles! Probably that war, just like that of 1915, was a fight for control of the waterway to the Black Sea and its riches....

    After visiting the museum on a grey-rainy afternoon, we benefit from morning sun to visit the city. Here, the vertiginous sense of time, the generations of builders, habitants, and catastrophic destructions is truly catching. The stone work of the 6th layer, which is linked to Homer's Iliad, is mind-blowing.    En savoir plus