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Destination Asie

September - Desember 2023
Follow us as we wend our way from Austria towards Turkey and the start of the East. Baca selengkapnya
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  • PelancongDestination Asie
    Hari 20

    Trogir

    24 September 2023, Kroasia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    (English translation below)
    Trogir remonte aux anciens grecs qui l'appelaient "mont du bouc". Petite ile bien protégée entre la côte et une grande ile, elle était une forteresse idéale pour les vénitiens, entre croates sur terre et turcs sur mer. Ça ne suffit plus de nos jours pour se protéger de l'UNESCO ni des touristes... mais elle en vaut la peine. Voir la page wikipedia pour l'histoire mouvementée et les merveilles architecturales de Trogir.

    Après nous êtres faufilés dans des rues très étroites entre des touristes plutôt larges, nous admirons la vieille citadelle et surtout la magnifique cathédrale vénitienne. Autour du beau portail gothique nous retrouvons Adam et Eve, cette fois-ci avec des lions à leurs pieds. Ce n'est pas comme ça dans la bible mais ça a permis au sculpteur de décrire à sa façon le rôle de maman et papa lion dans leur famille ;-).

    En avant vers Split! Notre navigateur 'Komoot' nous permet de nous faufiler le long de la côte en évitant la grand route. Nous passons par de jolis villages de pêche, hélas ponctués de ralentisseurs bien douloureux pour le fondement des cyclistes

    Nous y voilà! Split est en fête, nocturne, éclairé et excitant!

    ≈===== English ≈======

    Trogir dates back to the ancient Greeks, who called it "Mount of the Billy-Goat". As a small, well-protected island between the coast and a large island, it was an ideal fortress for the Venetians, between the Croats on land and the Turks at sea. These days, that's not enough to protect it from UNESCO or the tourists... but it's worth it. See the wikipedia page for Trogir's eventful history and architectural wonders.

    After weaving our way through some very narrow streets and between some rather large tourists, we admire the old citadel and above all the magnificent Venetian cathedral. Around the beautiful Gothic portal we meet Adam and Eve again, once more with lions at their feet. It's not like that in the Bible, but it allowed the sculptor to describe in his own way the role of mother and father lion in their family ;-).

    Onwards to Split! Our navigator 'Komoot' allows us to thread our way along the coast, avoiding the main road. We pass through some pretty fishing villages, which are unfortunately punctuated by speed bumps that are very painful for cyclists-on-saddle.

    And here we are! Split is festive, night-time, illuminated and exciting!    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongDestination Asie
    1
    Hari 21

    Split

    25 September 2023, Kroasia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A night and a morning in Split.

    Split is a large city with a well-preserved centre built inside the walls of the immense palace of roman emperor Diocletian (ca 300 AD). The quality of roman construction is stunning.

    After a quick dinner in our room near the harbour, we wander by night in the narrow streets inside the palace. Magic of the lighting, of the grand 'bronze', 'iron', 'silver', and 'golden' gates. The town is quietly taken over by country music singers and wandering couples.

    At morning the buildings open, and we marvel through temples and cellars, the incredible archtecture, from bricks and vaults to sculptures. Why did Diocletian decorate the ceiling with the forty figures of human emotions and, at the same time, execute thousands of Christians?

    As the morning moves on, the crowd grows; time to go. We are filled with happy emotions as we set foot on the ferry to Hvar Island.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongDestination Asie
    Hari 21–25

    Tent with a view

    25 September 2023, Kroasia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We land on Hvar in Stari Grad, the north harbour, at 17h30. The light is superb. After a short ride along the only flat area of the island, among old dry stone walls, vineyards, and olive tree plantations, we find an absolutely ace camping spot. Views of moon- and sun rise, one terrace above a swim in the sea.

    As luck has it, our insides chose this moment to go on strike, in alternance. We end up spending three days of hmm... recovering, in this heaven.

    We manage a day tour to the top of the island, discovering a 270 degrees viewpoint on the sea. We find old dwellings, igloo-like shelters of limestone, built by shepherds/farmers living off sheep and goats, figs, olive oil, wine and honey. An old village with arches and stone roofs is being restored.

    To move to our next target, Korcula Island, we need to cross the very top of the Island. Part of this road was build by the French in Napoleonic times, and reveals more of the original agricultural organization.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongDestination Asie
    1
    Hari 26

    Korcula island

    30 September 2023, Kroasia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Our next Dalmatian island is Korcula. We arrive at sunset by catamaran and stay in a small apartment overlooking the sea. It is getting harder to find places to stay, even with the ongoing warm and sunny weather.
    Korcula is hilly but more agricultural than Hvar. We climb and ride with views to the south and then, crossing over the central spinal valley, views to the North. Then it's down down into Korcula walled old town for a gentle exploration before catching the ferry to an island-shaped peninsula on the mainland.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongDestination Asie
    1
    Hari 27

    The walls of Ston and Mali Ston

    1 Oktober 2023, Kroasia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Back from Korcula, we camp on the continent. Small incident: we run out of fuel for the stove, just as we cook our first ground beef in ages. Ahem, we ponder on how to get just 0.8 litres of petrol and discuss the various tricks found on internet... since the minimal purchase is 2 litres.
    We conclude by adding cheese to the menu and volunteer Alain to go get petrol first thing in the morning. He is very proud to return, with 0.89l of petrol and a 1.44 euro credit card receipt, delivered in complete indifference by the cashier. All that before a coffee.

    We start the 122km road to Dubrovnik on a beautiful tiny windy hilly route along the sea. By 15:00 we are halfway and come to the fantastic site of the walls of Ston. A decision is quickly made to call it a day, and climb the steeply stepped nearly 3 km of wall that link Ston and Mali Ston... As it turns out, this is the defence wall of the town/state of Ragusa. (More on Ragusa tomorrow).

    We find a good room. The owner lady remembers in the morning that we are in October and gives us back 5 Euros. Nice!    Baca selengkapnya

  • PelancongDestination Asie
    Hari 28

    Dubrovnik

    2 Oktober 2023, Kroasia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Dubrovnik, c'était Ragusa durant moyen âge et renaissance. La vieille ville, en grande partie reconstruite après le tremblement de terre de 1667, est un ensemble homogène et vivant, que nous visitons de nuit avec délice. Les pavés de calcaire dur sont tellement polis par les chaussures des passants qu'ils brillent dans les lumières de la nuit.

    Le lendemain nous reprenons la route après un passage à la fontaine d'Onofrio pour remplir nos bouteilles d'eau très fraiche... Adieu la Croatie, à nous le Montenegro.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongDestination Asie
    Hari 30

    Kotor bay

    4 Oktober 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We exit Dubrovnic on EuroVelo route 8 - it's the only route heading south. It's pretty much the most risky ride we have ever cycled. When a lorry honks just behind your left ear at 90 km hour on a busy narrow road it’s probably best to move off the road (once you have finished jumping out of your skin). We were both shaken when finally we had a choice and found a quieter scenic route along the coast to the Montenegro border crossing.
    Just around the corner, our first view of the much acclaimed Kotor bay. Our hearts sink. The shores are lined with apartments, hotels, and sea resorts. Beautiful waters, backset by mountains, but we just had not expected so much development.
    The next morning, we cross on the free ferry to find a quieter route along the shore, then pay a brief visit to Kotor. A beautiful walled town with too many tourists for Alice.
    Now it's time to head up the mountain. It's a long but well graded climb with stupendous views back to the bay and to the seas. We make steady progress buoyed by the scenery.
    And just as we are trying to figure out where to spend the night, a tiny campsite perched above the viewpoint “free for cyclists”. It has tiny terraces that have been covered in astroturf (turns out to be surprisingly comfortable if ecologically wanting). There is a restaurant attached which we plan to use for dinner - but which, counter to google-info, shuts just before we walk down. We hastily pick up water and cook from our supplies. The sunset and the night lights below are a wonder to behold.    Baca selengkapnya

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  • PelancongDestination Asie
    Hari 31

    Off the beaten track in Montenegro

    5 Oktober 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    One of the things we love about cycle touring is how things change and progress with the miles. You turn a corner, summit a pass or cross a river and suddenly the rocks change, the houses are different, the view, the signs or the language is new. Sometimes it is a slow subtle shift over several days. Sometimes, like today, there are many distinctly different phases.
    Phase 1, we complete the climb out of Kotor. Then we are into a new phase the Locven national park. A new set of views and scenery including a lot of scorched-looking vegetation- from the summer heat wave perhaps. Next a descent into the royal capital of Montenegro, Cetinje, for a lunchtime wander.
    The afternoon sees us climbing out of town and we sigh with relief when we turn off the main road onto a small pot-holed lane. It does not last long. A notice annouces major road works and 2 minutes later the road is blocked with a large pile of dirt and an adept and speedy bulldozer hard at work. 25 mins later we are allowed through and soon find ourselves on a surreal huge new road which has been ploughed through the middle of nowhere and is completely empty. Its ugly and very much quicker than the old road - but as we are behind schedule and dark comes early, this is perhaps no bad thing.
    Another turn and we now have quiet rural scenes. We climb a bumpy road that then contours around the hilltop before we descend, descend, descend into the flat main valley and the refreshingly untouristy town of Danilovgrad. Here Alain deftly sorts us some rooms and we manage to find real homemade Montenegrin veal knuckle and cabbage stew for dinner.
    It feels like more than just one day.    Baca selengkapnya

  • PelancongDestination Asie
    1
    Hari 32

    Pilgrims at Ostrog

    6 Oktober 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Would you sleep under the stars at a monastery given the chance?

    Ostrog is a Serbian orthodox monastery and a site of pilgrimage. It is perched high above the valley, and deftly tucked in under the base of huge limestone cliffs. Its a spectacular location.

    The monastery provides blankets and mattresses and its free to sleep out.
    We pick our spot and set up for the night. Alain chatting to our neighbours of varying Serbian origins. After an early evening outdoor service, pilgrims start to settle for the night. We lie looking up at the night-lit monastery, the cliffs and the stars above, a gentle breeze on our faces, conscious of all those many pilgrims that have paused here over the centuries.
    The night is not long, with many up at 5am. The 6am outdoor morning service is graced with the crescent moon above and the sun about to rise. We quietly leave in the early morning as yet more pilgrims arrive.    Baca selengkapnya

  • PelancongDestination Asie
    1
    Hari 33

    Montenegro heights

    7 Oktober 2023, Montenegro ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We are off from Ostrog before 7:00, with no other breakfast than just a coffee and a hot chocolate from the vending machine. Good news: the tough climb to the Monastry has turned into a wonderful descent (is that the miracle?).

    The road next hugs huge limestone cliffs on one side, climbing gently towards a horizon of higher mountains. There is nothing better than a great view on an empty stomach. Finally, we arrive in the wide upper valley of the Zeta river. A superb bridge, a gift of the Russian emperor Nicolas II to Montenegro, will finally allow us to sit for breakfast in the sun.

    Now begins another world. On a little country road, we are in the bush, uphill as most of the time. We meet groups of hunters, the occasional tractor, very old and stinky cars. As we get higher, the views open until we arrive on a high steppe, with some fields of potatoes, windmills, but mostly wide expanses of grass and rocks. Here be goats and sheep. They think we need a rest from pedalling and tangle nicely with us, bringing everything to a complete stop. The shepherdess, classic with scarf, a long black skirt and a stick, comes to the rescue with her big white dog.

    After the pass around 1500m, we discover, in the far distance, a landscape of deep gorges and high bare peaks, the Durmitor mountains. Our foreseen accommodation in Šavnik is closed. With no alternative, Alain asks at the grocery shop, where only Montenegrin is spoken, and gets the name of a campsite written on an old receipt. After 200m of climb too many, we have a wonderful meadow for ourselves, a cold-cold shower (also only for ourselves!), and ice on the tent in the morning. This is cycle touring at its best.    Baca selengkapnya

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