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East to Armenia
  • AliceAlain

East to Armenia

Returning to Konya, where we finished last December, our goal is to pedal east across Turkey and then through Georgia and into Armenia. Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 18, 2024
    AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Konya at night with the Mevlana mausoleum
    Konya in the springSeljuk theological schoolThe school in actionTiles from palace near BehsehirKonya streets

    Back to Konya

    April 18, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We are back in Konya ready to continue travelling east. Back to where we were in December but it is now spring and warm. Back to minarets and regular prayers, feta cheese and tomatoes, helpful and friendly locals. We liked Konya last time and we love being back.

    We are met at Konya airport by gentle Muhammed with his pickup truck - he had taken us there in December. We stay in the same hotel, its not amazing but we know where we are and there is a good space for working on the bikes. Its time for us to start to unwind from all the long preparations.

    The morning is spent reconstructing our bikes and searching for gas and cash. In the afternoon we visit a museum, once a Seljuk educational establishment with a wonderful tiled ceiling. Tomorrow we will be pedaling east into the new…    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Le caravanserail d'Obruk
    La grande plaine d'Obruk YaylasiPrintemps... il fait chaud quand même! 26⁰C.Le point d'eau d'OBRUKLe niveau a descendu de plus de 10m depuis le XIXème sciècle.Camping dans l'herbe fraiche...La lune au coin des crénaux au crépusculeBonne nuit

    Caravanserail

    April 19, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Grand départ ce matin, marqué des petites suprises de rigueur: pneus à regonfler, sacoches à rajuster, bol oublié à racheter dans un bazaar turc, vitesses à desserrer. Après 35 km de banlieue & autoroute, nous arrivons enfin dans la campagne d'avril.

    En fait... nous sommes sur la route de la soie! Ce caravanserail n'était rien d'autre qu'une station service améliorée, avec chambres, artisans, commerce, restos, etc. pour le ravitaillement des caravaniers et leurs équipages. Il est établi près d'un grand trou d'eau qui a bien perdu 10-15 m de profondeur avec l'assèchement d'un lac voisin et la baisse de la nappe.

    Chance, le caravanserail nous invite aussi à camper dans le jardin! Première nuit réussie, l'appel à la prière nous fait gicler deux fois du sommeil, sans merci.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Sultanhani caravanserai
    Irrigation on the dry plainsOld mud brick houses as the wind risesDust stormSultanhani caravanseraiSultanhani Caravanseri -the largest caravanserai in AntoliaGalleries with exhibition of carpets2Turkish carpets

    Dust storm on the silk road

    April 20, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 22 °C

    We wake to a decent breeze and to turkish hospitality: the guard and garden workers of the Obruk caravanserai, in whose garden we are camped, all pass by to say hello and offer us fresh sesame rolls.

    Today we will continue along the silk route towards Sultanhani, the largest Caravanserai in Antolia. Pedalling off on the side roads, we have the wind behind us passing through small old villages on the plain. We puzzle the enormous number of electricity pylons and the source of water for the irrigated verdant crop patches on the otherwise dry land. Does over-extraction of water account for the huge reduction in size of the lake, which must once have covered all the plain and which is nowhere to be seen, despite our optimistic map?

    The wind is seriously on the rise and is increasingly across or against us. It’s getting very very murky with dust. By the time we are back on the main dual carriageway its a challenge to stay upright and to progress forwards. Alice decides that combining pedalling and braking helps with not whizzing sideways into the road. We are relieved to arrive into the relative shelter of town.

    Gritty but still smiling we wander around the calm Sultanhani which in the 13th century would have offered free accommodation, stabling, food and baths to passing travellers.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Hasan Daği the volcano and Gözlükuyu, the village where the water dried out.
    Caravanserai in the morning sunA baby owl wondering about us1So cute1Sheep catching up with the troupsHello...Hi bro!Camping at the foot of Hasan DağiNext morning, in front of very eutrophic lake, Hasan Daği and a chain of volcanos

    Au pieds d'Hasan Dăgi

    April 21, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    La tempête de sable a fait place à une gentille brise et un beau soleil. Le petit déj' sur la terrasse du Golden Hotel est un vrai plaisir. Nous saluons le caravanserail une dernière fois, et en route vers la Cappadoce.

    Nous roulons sur la grande plaine... C'est à ce moment que nous apercevons le volcan. Un énorme volcan qui domine la plaine, et remplit l'horizon à l'est, encore tous bleuté et diffus par la légère brume. HASAN DAĞI mesure 3268m de haut, et se voit de loin!

    Nous faisons une pause sous un bouquet de saules... qui sert d'hotel à deux couvées de hibous. Les 5 bébés aventureux nous regardent avec une curiosité partagée.

    Notre route passe tout près du volcan et nous rencontrons les premières pentes. Un étrange village abandonné, Gözlükuyu, s'étend sur une prairie en flan de volcan. Un passant nous informe que le village fut abandonné il y a de nombreuses années car les sources se sont taries. Nous plantons la tente sur une ancienne terrasse. La fontaine en bas du village coule encore, elle sert aussi d'abreuvoir. Nous recevons la visite de troupeaux de vaches, brebis et chèvres, de chiens bien sûr, et d'un âne très curieux.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Fairy chimney in the Ihlara valley
    Monastery chapelAlice in the "Cathedral"Fairy chimneysWalking through valley meadowsThe caves in the top left are a chapelCliffs and cavesRelaxing on a floating platform- turkish styleChurch frescos from 9/11th centuriesThese holes on the outside were for the pigeons. They provided essential means of communication

    Entry into Cappadocia: Ihlara valley

    April 22, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We are now on the edge of Cappadocia. Arriving at the hotel, Alain and I arrange to be dropped at the bottom of the Ihlara valley, wending our way back on foot up the wonderfully green valley which is hedged with red cliffs and filled with rock formations and carved caves. A lush river runs between the meadows at the base of the cliffs.

    The valley and its formations are due to the nearby volcano. The rocks are soft and easily carved, hardening when exposed to air. It is a troglodyte heaven. There are multistory appartment caves. There are caves containing a monastery with kitchens with huge chimneys. There are chapels galore from the 4th century with carved arches and frescos from the 9th and 11th centuries. There are rooms with cow troughs and there are passages that were camel routes for the caravans that used to run here. All of these are carved out of the rocks.

    At the base of the valley are the fairy chimneys - a classic of Cappadocia- they are hard not to fall in love with. Several of these have also been internally carved out.
    We find so many things to visit along the valley - our afternoon walk extends until dinner time.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Steep and narrow passage
    School dance in GözelyurtĜözelyurt village stands over a deep underground cityUnderground living room with mysterious rows of holes in the floorA luminous wire guides the visit ... into a very small holeAlice always brave, crouched over in the passageAlain followsNow a vertical shaft. We did it!We end up near surface in this little chapelReaching the passHappy campers are adopted by wild dog. The night was long and sleepless.

    Le passage secret

    April 23, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    D'Ihlara, nous continuons vers l'est, sur les conseils de Lonely Planet qui recommande, "pour les aventureux", la visite de la ville souterraine de Güzelyurt. C'est un charmant village qui nous accueille avec la fête de l'école et des danses endiablées.

    L'entrée du monde souterrain, en bas d'une ruelle bien raide, est comme une entrée de cave où se trouvent des petites niches sur les murs. Par des portes très basses creusées dans le tuf, nous visitons des salles de vie communes agrémentées d'espaces, niches, alvéoles, creusés dans la roche ou dans le sol, dont l'usage nous intrigue. Des filins lumineux nous invitent dans des escaliers étroits et nous nous enfonçons dans les profondeurs. Combien de chambres, de cuisines, d'ateliers, de garde-mangers et de tombes se trouvent ainsi cachés? De longs passages joignent des parties apparemment distinctes du dispositif. Il faut pratiquement ramper.

     Arrivés à un niveau profond nous découvrons encore un puits d'accès vertical avec des trous dans les parois en guise d'escalier. Il faut se risquer à cette petite escalade pour trouver un étroit couloir qui remonte un peu plus loin. Bien sûr, Alain se cogne le crâne. Nous réussissons la remontée, un peu soulagés, débouchant dans une petite chapelle sans doute plus récente.

    Un peu abasourdis et éblouis nous reprenons nos vélos et, après quelques heures, plantons notre tente dans les pins près d'un col, avec une jolie vue. Un toutou sauvage vient nous adopter. La pleine lune c'est beau, c'est la fête pour les chiens... et peu de sommeil pour les autres.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    These big round stones were rolled across the doors to block passage
    Sketch of the underground cityLighting enhances the alcoves (or cabinets) surrounding this roomA living roomA long corridorIts wider here, but not very high, still3000 some years ago, humans were certainly smaller than today...The ventilation shaft was also an elevator for excavated materials, kitchen... and toiletsNicely decorated room

    Rolling stones

    April 24, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Kaymakli a aussi sa ville souterraine et a organisé la visite, le fléchage et les éclairages de façon élégante, systématique, didactique... et payante. Du coup nous comprenons mieux notre aventure de la veille.

    Ces villes souterraines datent de (au moins) 3500 ans, l'époque des Hittites ou plus tard des Phrygiens. Elles servaient d'abris en cas d'invasion ou de guerre. Il est possible que certaines aient servi aux esclaves en fuite pendant l'ère romaine ou aux chrétiens avant Constantin.

     Les trous au sol servaient à poser des pots personnels ou les repas. Dans les murs, les alvéoles servaient à poser des lampes ou pour s'aggripper. Il y avait une cheminée centrale d'aération, servant aussi de monte-charge pour les materiaux d'excavation, les ingredients et rebuts de cuisine, ou pour les grandes amphores qui servaient de toilettes. (On respire). Il y avait des sorties et entrées multiples pour se réfugier ou s'echapper.

    Après un très bon dîner turc nous allons récupérer des aboyements de pleine lune dans un petit hotel, à coté de la mosquée.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Please, lets get one!
    A camel would help with all of thisApproaching the centre of CappadociaThe countryside is pock marked with underground storage... these are for seed potatoesAlice's new friendsJust a little chew...Uçhisar and its castleUçhisar castleView from the castleView from castleFor once, no head damage...

    Lets get a camel :-)

    April 25, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We manage an early start to help with the heat of the day: today we are headed for Göreme which is the mega-centre of Cappadocia. As we get closer there are small patches of Cappadocian geology and then suddenly we have a magnificent view over a whole plain crammed with bizare and incredible mounds, cliffs and towers. The downside to this is that we are also now sharing it with zillions of bus loads of selfie-shooting tourists… and a few adorable camels 🐫 amongst all the tourist trappings. Alice is still negotiating with Alain over whether we could have a pair.

    Atop the horizon is a spectacular castle. And like everything else around here it has been carved out rather than built.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Balloons at Dawn
    Lunchtime picnic viewSpring flowers1We find some memorable formations... and dramaticView from our pitchEr... theres a balloon next to our tentIts rising

    Cappadocia: Balloons over Göreme

    April 25, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 28 °C

    Its now almost no distance into Göreme which is the epicenter of tourism in Cappadocia. Its wonderfully placed in the centre of tons of rocks, cave houses and carved out churches. Sadly it continues to develop and spread very fast and is at risk of spoiling itself.

    We find a campsite with a wonderful view above the town. Then set off for a little exploration, by chance finding a dramatic little valley just the other side of town which, after some effort to descend the steep surrounding cliffs, we get to explore in peace.

    On our last morning at the campsite we wake at sunrise to the noise of an air balloon. Its extraordinarily close to our tent. And when we look over the valley it is filled with almost 100 balloons, each lightening up from time to time. Don’t miss out on the video!    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    In the Dark Church, superb frescoes of Jesus's life, death and resurrection
    The convent, a.k.a. "nunnery"Three types of crosses can be seen in sculptures or aureolasMany niches and storage places in this kitchenThis flat space, with a little passage to the large bucket, was designed in stone to press the wineA large dinner table for the communitySaint Basil's chapel, with abstract decorationsNevertheless a beautiful architecture was carved from the stoneThe hermaphrodite Saint Onophrius is hiding behind a palm treeSaint George's ubiquitus dragon-foe is still having a bad day

    Le musée en plein air de Göreme

    April 26, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Héritage mondial de l'UNESCO, ce musée nous fait traverser un complexe de bâtiments monastiques, creusés dans le tuf des cheminées de fées entre le 9ème et le 11ème siècles. On peut admirer le travail d'architecture, voutes, transepts, colonnes... ou les éléments de mobilier taillés dans la roche: bancs, tables de travail ou de refectoire, étagères...

    On y trouve aussi les marques du mouvement iconoclaste du 8 et 9ème sciècles dans l'empire Byzantin, qui interdisait l'adoration des images de Dieu et des saints, ou même toute représentation de Dieu. C'est le cas des chapelles de Sainte Barbara et Saint Basile qui sont embellies de motifs naïfs.

    Les magnifiques fresques des sciècles suivants représentent la vie de Jésus avec des inscriptions en grec, c'est comme une BD; il est fascinant de retrouver l'annonciation et la nativité, les évangélistes, comprendre ce qu'est l'anastasie, observer la représentation des pélerins d'Emmaüs.

    Après cette matinée liturgique, nous retrouver la nature dans les vallées avoisinantes.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Red valley rocks (not Chile)
    The terrain we are exploringWe are on footHorse is the alternativeA vineyard and walnut orchard in the stone paradiseHow did they get home?Columned church...carved inside the rockLots of lovely layersClambering up through cave tunnelsBet you would not have identified this as a cave beehive!

    The Rose and the Red

    April 26, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    After our morning round of frescos, its time for another dose of geology. We can choose from the Rose, Red, Love, Pigeon, Mushroom and several more - each of these a valley with different characteristics depending on geological layering. We start with the Rose and finish with the Red. Both are wonderful. On the Red we climb up steep ladders and through cave tunnels then descend what is almost a cliff on a winding path with reassuring mesh fencing. It’s threatening to rain and we are tired so we hurry home.Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Ericyes Daği dominates the plain
    Cappadocian mushroomsI think these must be babies, just hatchedThey are watching us leave. Güle güle!Old stone village. The new village is belowPitched at the passSunrise with volcano. So peaceful and silent!Time to get up....Ericyes Daği getting bigger...1...and bigger

    Peace and quiet

    April 27, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Its time to leave Cappadocia and head east. We have a final few kilometers, past yet more rock formations. They are beautiful but nevertheless we are ready to escape the heavy tourism.

    Soon it is much quieter and we pass old abandoned stone villages and start to climb. At the pass, we find a tranquil spot with views all around and have a relaxing afternoon in the sunshine near the tent.

    In the morning, a wonderful sunrise and then down to a huge empty plain domimated by another volcano. Tonight we are headed for Tomarza where we plan a night indoors to catch up on the washing/provisions ready for the next leg.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Grand scenery and threatening sky
    Ali Baba's grandson poses before we leaveHappy bicycle fixing session!We follow a quiet riverLimestone terrain and deep gorgesRoad trip at its bestEntrance of the gorge, which we will follow uphill for 15km in the rainThe rain stopped!And we pitch more or less in the drySunrise at 2000m

    Une nuit chez Ali Baba

    Apr 29–May 1, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ 🌩️ 21 °C

    En arrivant à Tomarza,
    il n'y a qu'un endroit où l'on va,
    c'est la pension d'Ali Baba.

    C'est samedi soir et il n'y a
    qu'une auberge pour des pidas,
    et c'est bien là qu'il nous envoit.

    Pour nos vélos qui grognent un peu,
    il appelle le voisin d'en bas,
    son magasin est à deux pas,
    dans moins d'une heure il viendra!

    Deux heures après, le pedalier
    Qui fait cra-cra est réparé,
    Et les vitesses qui déraillaient,
    Au dégrippant sont calinées.

    ‐--‐‐---‐---‐-‐‐------‐--------‐‐--------------------‐-‐-

    Après ce petit interlude, nous reprenons la route. (En fait le pédalier recommence à grincer au bout d'une heure... et Alice règlera ses vitesses encore une fois... c'est la vie.)

    Le temps menace, alors que nous pénètrons dans une superbe gorge. Des grosses gouttes... vite, vite nos habits de pluie, veste, pantalon, pare-chaussures. De superbes éclairs nous accompagnent, l'eau jaillit de partout, nous grimpons jusqu'à 2000m. Chance parfaite, ça se calme à notre arrivée au sommet, un beau col entouré de pâtures et de sommets encore enneigés.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    2Our favourite snack; yoghurt, banana, honey. For best results, cycle for a few hours first.
    Morning descentLooking back upLooking backWe find a small Roman templeComfrey?Local transport... exceptionally with a lady driverFirst pass of the afternoon in sightStruggling on

    Mountain camp to cemetary

    April 30, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We wake to wonderful sunshine on our beautiful mountain pass and a long descent ahead. Not a bad start to a day.
    The scenery is mountainous and pretty. We are on small back roads through backwater villages which seem mainly populated with older people. There are many small passes and we are working hard.
    We descend to cross a much bigger road and then are back on smaller roads. Its more populated and feels poorer.
    There is an art to wild camping. Its usually best to start looking about an hour before you need to stop. Today we hang on a little too long hoping that the next pass will do. It doesn’t. We carry on, running completely out of steam we struggle up another steep pass. A storm is moving in fast and we are out of options and time. On rough and muddy ground by the cemetery seems the best we can manage. The first squall strikes just as we get the tent out and its a battle to get the tent secured.
    Finally we are inside and drying off. We make life a bit easier and opt for a picnic dinner in the tent.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Happy May Day
    1Our emergency (thunderstorm) camp site in the morning. We survived.On the road, this massive Turkish castle of another timeWith a ray of sunshine, even Alain looks betterA charming valley where we seek (in vain) Hittite inscriptionsMore spring colorsA brand new coal power plant... but why, my God, why?Apparenly because the old one got damagedNevertheless, Elbistan will be remembered for two delicious Turkish dinnersDeparting from Elbistan. Sheep, mosque, and new appartment buildings

    Elbistan

    May 1, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    La nuit près du cimetière a été fort agitée, ponctué de gros orages et d'averses torrentielles. Le matin est gris mais sec, Alain a attrappé un rhume, mais notre moral est intact. C'est le premier mai, nous envoyons à la maison, faute de muguet, des jolies petites fleurs rouges, qui poussent au bors du chemin.

    Notre prochaine étape est un gros bourg de plaine, où nous prenons un jour de repos, histoire de finir un peu de travail en cours, une revue, et surtout la déclaration d'impôts. :-(. En approchant nous rencontrons une imposante centrale électrique à charbon, c'est moche et ça pue, et ça fait très longtemps qu'on n'en avait plus vue.

    La ville est banale. Ce qui nous frappe sont les piles de gravats qui remplacent, ici un ancien hotel ou un immeuble, parfois tout un pâté de maisons. La tristre raison ne nous en apparaîtra que dans quelques jours.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    A couple days of dramatic weather and light
    Heading off to the east in empty space.Another pass, always another worldShopping in Numrhak, irresistible strawberriesBackground mountains are well over 2500m.Çai discussion in GermanFinding a good place to pitch the tent is always a bit trickyThe following day... an amazing place in a crazy gorge, an abandoned road next to a waterfall

    L'orage et la lumière

    May 3, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    À l'est d'Elbistan nous pénérons un arrière pays agricole et minier sauvage, dans des montagnes où l'érosion fait rage. Le ciel est menaçant et nous nous faufilons entre les averses orageuses.

    Nous profitons d'un premier village pour nous approvisionner en légumes frais chez un marchand bien achalandé en bord de route: onions, tomates, poivrons longs vert clair et goûteux, et surtout... des fraises irresisibles.

    Un passant nous aborde pour nous raconter qu'il a des enfants en France (Dinan) et exhibe fièrement sa Volvo immatriculée à Paris. Il nous explique aussi que la région a été dévastée par un tremblement de terre. Effectivement! Ceci va nous éclairer sur bien des aspects de notre visite à Elbistan et pendant les quelques jours à venir (voir le post suivant).

    Dans l'après midi un homme nous interpelle pour nous offrir le thé, et nous raconter sa vie de commerçant à Francfort. Il est revenu au pays et tient l'épicerie-quincaillerie locale. C'est tout en allemand, nous puisons dans nos vieux restes scolaires pour répondre aux questions de la famille qui s'assemble. À l'heure de partir, nous sommes sous le charme, et oublions complètement d'acheter lait et pain dont nous avions besoin.

    La route zigzague dans la montagne, nous nous retrouvons face à un troupeau de chèvres et leur chien, mais trouvons quand même un super-coin pour planter la tente. Les lumières de l'après-midi sont splendides.

    Le lendemain, "il pleuvait fort sur la grand'route", nous trouvons refuge chez un marchand de délicieux rouleaux (gözelme) remplis de légumes, salade et viande; pendant deux heures notre hôte nous sert du thé en attendant que l'orage passe. "Dans notre culture l'invité est le plus important" précise-t-il.

    Ce soir là, notre recherche de petit coin pour la tente nous emmène dans une gorge dévastée, où Alice déniche une cascade perdue au détour d'une route abandonnée. "Un p'tit coin d'paradis..."    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Refugee tents abound
    One of the epicentres. Plus our approx trajectory in blueMountain village with tents and mobile homesNew suburbs of Dohanşehir: we end up cycling round the building siteVillage with tents and rebuilt housesA mobile home encampmentNew estate of bungalows which will replace the old villageHard at work

    Earthquake zone

    May 4, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We have vaguely been noting various slightly odd things but without twigging what has happened.
    Finally people explain that they were majorly affected by the huge Turkey/Syria 7.8 Earthquake of Feb 2023. Now we start to understand why there are so many brand new roofs, concrete mixer trucks and cranes, refugee tents in peoples gardens, and mobile home encampments. At present we have been cycling through this for 4 days with no respite.

    In the towns and lower villages, there are piles of rubble, houses that are rebuilt but unpainted and with new windows, labels not yet removed. Other houses with huge cracks. In the higher mountain villages, progress is slower and in some villages there are still mainly tents and tiny mobile homes.

    It looks like one of the Turkish recovery strategies is simply to start again. Between 2 mountain villages, 3 new estates of 50 plus bungalows in various states of completion. Outside the city, new apartment suburbs. They look smart, but we note that insulation looks minimal. We hope they are earthquake proof and wonder how the locals feel about their new homes.
    Then there is the landscape. We have been travelling through land that is eroding fast. There seem to be many fresh rock falls and rock avalanches and many places with a lot of recent subsidence. Its hard to know just how much is from the earthquake… perhaps most.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Alain gets vertigo taking this shot
    Heading up the gorgeLots of unstable rocks and recent rockfallsWaterfall and rocksBig landscapesDirt or tarmac?Almost caves

    Gorges

    May 5, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Today the big question is which route will we take. We have no phone signal and we know there was a difference in suggested routes from Komoot (which applies cycling algorithms on top of open street map) and google maps (which in Turkey has no cycling option). A difference means we should pay attention. Komoot’s best route includes (possibly?) 15km of dirt road. As it is wet we need to be careful not to end up completely mud-stuck.
    At the critical junction, still no signal. A passing motorist advises the google route. So we take the much less likely looking komoot route!
    Aside: the turks keep telling us to take the “fast” dual-carriage ways and insisting that the mountain roads are not suitable for bicycles.

    With the added sense of adventure (will we make it through?) we follow a narrow and once-tarmacked remote road high up along the gorge. It’s up and down and steep and scary. The mountain villages seem very isolated. It is charming and hard work. It’s wonderful. And yes, indeed, we make it through.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    New pebble pouch
    A stray in town (no way am I hanging around to photograph the aggressive dogs)

    The pebble pouch

    May 5, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Alice is now carrying a newly created pebble pouch on her front handlebars. Carefully sewn from a discarded workman’s glove found on the side of the road. Containing 3 medium sized not at all special pebbles. That she sincerely hopes not to need.

    Ammunition.

    Turkish dogs do not get a good press with cyclists. And with justification. At best they are a nuisance. At worst they are downright terrifying. This year we have had much more difficulty with dogs i.e. more serious aggression. We are in more remote areas and they are less accustomed to weird cyclists passing through.

    Broadly speaking there are 2 main categories (and 2 main breeds) of dogs.
    The wild strays are typically noisy and playful but basically gentle and good natured. Its a bit daunting cycling through a gang of them. And they are a pain when we are camping as they tend to “adopt” us and sit by the tent all night. Try eating breakfast with 7 dogs and 2 cats in tow.

    The guard-dogs, whether for property, sheep or cattle are in a different league. They are big and strong and clearly not to be messed with. It is not advised to try to pedal away fast as they are even faster. Which means, counter intuitively, slowing down or stopping to face and deal with them. So far I have had one dog grab my pannier strap (and break the clip) and another bite or bump the pannier. Its really scary but I am so glad it was not my leg. Alain had his tyre bit (but with no damage). We have had several episodes where we have had to stop and walk to get past …its very daunting. We have come out the other side complete but quite shaken.

    Alain is doing well at Shhh -ing the dogs. Leaning down to pick up a stone also seems to deter. Next comes throwing a stone (hence a pouch, in case there are none to pick up). We ideally throw to miss, but if need be to hit.

    We asked the locals what to do. They said “Are you afraid?”, us: “Yes”, them: “We are afraid too….Maybe throw stones?…”. Oh well.

    I am so very grateful for our rabies jabs (just praying that they are not needed).

    Wish us luck (a lot of it).    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    The Roman bridge closes the superb gorges of Cendere river
    1A family story. There were four columns, but Caracalla destroyed that of his little brother. Na.The Seljuk bridge, in a grandiose site under a fortressGorges in the rain. Note the fortress up above.View towards the big cave, which is closed after earthquake fallsOn the way a little site where King Antiochus shakes hands with Zeus (Zeus part was broken off)Entry to an underground tunnel with steps that descend 150m. Possibly for water or unfinished escapeWe start the climb...The climb is paved and very steep. Alice zigzags to reduce the grade.Alain's super chic Brooks saddle breaks under effortTime to stop after 1000m of ascent. Gentle visit of goats to say goodnight

    À l'assaut du Mt NEMRUT

    May 5–7, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Nous finissons notre virée dans les gorges auprès d'un pont romain érigé par l'empereur Septime Sévère sur les gorges de la rivière Cendere. Faute de mieux, nous plantons la tente à coté, aux bons(?) soins des marchands de souvenirs, et repartons de bon matin. Il fait un temps maussade, mais le jeu des brumes et du soleil dans les montagnes est prometteur.

    Une copie du pont romain a été réalisée au XII ème sciècle par les Seljuks, dans un décors grandiose, ce qui nous encourage: le but que nous nous sommes fixés est d'arriver aussi haut que possible dans l'ascension du Mont Nemrut (2134m), pour pouvoir y arriver le matin et éviter la pluie prévue aujourd'hui.

    Nous partons d'environ 600m. La route a été aménagée par le parc national pour être très belle pour un touriste en bus... mais pas du tout facile pour un vélo! Elle est en pavés et la pente doit atteindre par endroits plus de 15%.

    Nous nous accrochons, et arrivons vers 1500m, à l'heure où il est convenable de planter la tente quand la pluie menace... Un troupeau de chèvres vient nous rend une petite visite.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Apollo on mount Nemrut
    We came up here and camped in the trees below last nightThe eastern terrace. The plinths above and the heads below (king, fertility, Zeus, Apollo, HeraclesThat's us. It is a bit nippy up here!An eagle guards each end. The King behind. The gravel burial mound above.The statues in their mountain settingZeus. Its rare to find someone Alain feels intimidated by. :-)The eagle who dominates the skies, and the lion who dominates the earthThe cloud is coming and goingNemrut, crowned by a large gravel burial mound

    Nemrut

    May 7, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    There is something very special about being up high and on top. Perhaps it is the sense of space and the perspective that it gives. And it is more so when there is a lot of time and work involved in getting there. And when the top is ancient and sacred.

    The very top of the Nemrut mountain is a huge pile of gravel. The burial mound of King Antiochus who ruled over the Commagene kingdom from 70 to 38 BC. The burial mound is flanked by 2 main terraces, each of which contained huge statues of the King together with the greek-persian Gods Zeus, Apollo, a goddess of fertility/fortune and Heracles. Flanked each end by a lion, representing the earth and an eagle, representing the skies. The 2 metre high heads are now toppled by earthquakes and erosions. They are an impressive and memorable sight that are hard to do justice to in photos.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    The gorges of Euphrates River
    We cant resist the smell of freshly cooked bread!View of the plain after Nemrut's descent. Yes, it's the Euphrates!Half an hour into the day we arrive in view of the riverThe Euphrates is actually dammed (water reserve, electricity). This makes for lovely, calm scenery.Close-up from the bridge on the gorges of Euphrates!Guess who moved closer for a better photo?Rural landscape. Hello donkeys!Many old Renaults and Fiats.... but this man seems the happiest of them all!Cermik is near... one more harrowing climb and this wonderful sunset scenery before we arrive.

    L'Euphrate

    May 8, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Après la longue descente du Mt Nemrut nous sommes un peu sonnés... mais très impressionnés de la vue sur les méandres de la grande rivière qui se reflètent dans la plaine.

    Nous découvrons, admiratifs 😲, les gorges de l'Euphrate, qui se promène entre des grandes falaises rouges. Il ira se jeter, à 2000km d'ici, dans le Golfe Persique. C'est très méditatif et repose des torrents que nous avons suivis les derniers jours.

    Nous parcourons dans cette belle journée la plaine agricole du fleuve, remarquant en particulier l'usage d'ânes, mules et chevaux.

    La géographie de l'Euphrate tient à un relief entrecoupé de barriéres montagneuses... qui rendent la progression très belle mais très fatiguante. Nous arrivons à Cermik complètement épuisés.    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    We push on the pedals, meditating on the kindness of our hosts, why they refused to be paid at all?
    A shady picnic stopImmense Dam on the river just before Dicle.Just below the dam, the Tigris forms another lake.Planting trees. Very active agriculture, here1Dicle -- even making friends at the Migros 😉Our night camp with many grasshopersMeeting a new large river in the morningIt is a second branch of the Tigris...

    Dicle, le Tigre

    May 10, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    En quittant Cermik, nos pensées retournent à nos hôtes qui nous ont accueillis, totalement crevés, avec un cours préavis. Nous nous demandons encore pourquoi ils ont été si généreux.

    Cette journée de vélo dans la plaine est relativement sans histoire. Notre but est d'arriver à Dicle, un petit bourg ou il y a des commerces et de l'eau, puis d'aller nous poser quelque part pour la nuit. Dicle est sur une colline, entouré de deux profondes entailles dans la plaine, deux rivières -- ce qui veut dire pour nous une belle descente et une dure remontée à chaque fois.

    A la première descente, nous voyons sur notre gauche, en amont donc, un énorme barrage; nous passons un pont banal sur l'exutoire. Une remontée en pleine chaleur, et nous voilà à la Migros de Dicle! Même dans un supermarché Suisse nous ne passons pas inaperçus.

    Nous nous arrêtons peu après avec le second pont en vue, dans un environnement étrange laissé par un torrent dans des rochers de grès. C'est hypersec et une multitude de petites sauterelles nous accompagnent.

    Le lendemain nous passons donc le second fleuve. Nous ne réaliserons que deux jours plus tard que Dicle est le nom turc du Tigre. (Le Tigre est le premier des deux fleuves, mais un second barrage réunit les deux dans un unique lac, sur lequel passe le second pont).    Read more

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  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    A soldier with a sense of humour testing out Alain's bike. Turkish thumbs up!
    Evening lighting after the rain from our camp

    Military welcome

    May 11, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    So when you are in a region with a high military presence, and a soldier waves that you should come over, you come over.
    A few questions… and then… “Chai?”. Alice says yes: it is raining and it sounds a bit different. With Chai, we are served a late and freshly cooked breakfast of chili eggs, cheese, bread, tomato, olive and honey. They are friendly and good natured. They get the giggles when one of them demonstrates to Alain how to eat honey without cutlery. They teach Alice the turkish version of thumbs up.

    We google-translate-chat. Why is such a high military presence needed, why are we in Turkey (as well as the age/married etc queries). They are clearly impressed at our different approach to retirement. They say there are terrorists around with machine guns and tell us to take care - it seems that things are more tense because of the situation with Israel.

    Then its back into the rain and a few more miles on the road.    Read more

  • AliceAlainEast to ArmeniaTraveler
    Starting with foothills in the morning sun. Erosion is omnipresent in these young mountains.
    Bracing for the long climb.Yes, we are going up there....In the gorge... we will not cross this old bridge.Two torrents join here, from valleys of different soils.Picnic with Kurdish family.Looking back...This would be a great descent in a kayak!Dream of kayaking.A high grazing plain. Where shall we pitch? (Thunder grumbles)Next to our tent, farming activity: this calf is being rescued after panicking in the storm

    Climbing up to Muş

    May 12, 2024 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    "Couchés sous la pluie, réveillés au soleil" semble être le motto de notre exploration du Kurdistan. Les vues du matin sont réjouissantes. Notre perspective pour cette journée est plus d'un kilomètre vertical de grimpette, pour se rapprocher d'un col à près de 2000m, en direction de la ville de Muş.

    Après quelques jolies collines, l'épicier (kurde) du coin à Kulp nous invite pour le çai (tchai). Il a des recharges de gaz à briquet pour remplir notre camping-gaz, on en trouve partout ici, faute de l'original introuvable. La conversation porte surtout sur les projets d'émigration à Varsovie du fils du patron. Partiront-ils tous?

    L'ascension du jour longe une rivière accidentée dans des gorges de toute beauté. C'est une attraction locale aussi, nous sommes invités à partager leur picnique par une famille Kurde souriante et bariolée. Une maman à la forte personalité fait marcher son monde, mais le petit garçon connait mieux l'anglais et la manoeuvre du smartphone ;-)...

    Cette montée est un vrai bonheur. Le cours du torrent est maintenant très animé et serait certainement une belle aventure en kayak!

    Alors que nous atteignons un replat herbagé, l'orage quotidien nous tombe dessus... et nous plantons notre tente (trop) près du passage des troupeaux vers le point d'eau. La soirée et la nuit sont animées.    Read more

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