Establecimiento La Candelaria

Continuing with tradition we took a walking tour around Salta. The guide was away (or hungover?!) so he sent his friend. Luckily he was knowledgable and his confidence in English grew as the tour went along. We passed the San Fransiscan church, down to the base of the San Barnado hill and to the statue of General Guemes a hero ofbthe region. Finishing the tour he gave us a great tips on a place to have lunch, the patio of empanadas and a peña to visit later.

Salta is the capitol of empanadas in Argentina and the Patio of Empanadas did not disappoint. We had Arab style, Jerky and Carne along with Tamucos, which arw corn paste and chorizo wrapped in leaves. Across the tables I recognised a couple that we had last met a month ago in El Chalten! We caught up with their travels and are sure to see them again before Lima.

Next stop was up the hill with the cable cars for a brilliant view over Salta. Walking down we passed shrines that respresented the stations of the cross caked in candle wax, it had been a pilgrim route on Good Friday.

After siesta it was time for a make over, my rainbow hair for Carnaval had long faded into blonde and green. Having finally tracked down some purple hair dye, Izzy and Charlotte became my colourists and my hair now matches my down jacket!

Chatting to the local staff in the hostel Izzy had tracked down an authentic Peña a taxi ride away. Called Casona del Milonio its down on Maps.me as a house of worship its revered so much in the community. Arriving at opening time there was already a queue of locals at the door and we luckily grabbed a table in the same room as two groups of locals with guitar cases and drums by their feet. The place had around 6 rooms and 2 courtyards full of people. Ordering some wine and an array of empanadas (jerky, carne and cheese and ham), tamucos, humitas and a plate of cheese we watched as intruments started coming out of the cases.

A family across from us and a group of young people started taking it in turn to sing goucho music. They sang all night all sorts of folk songs. It was an amazing experience, I only wish I understood more Spanish to understand the lyrics of the songs. A man from Puerto Iguasu joined our table, a chiropractor by trade he offered all the girls massages, but the offer didn't extend to James! With our money running out we reluctantly left the Peña. Definetely the must do thing in Salta.En savoir plus