Bhutan
Paro

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    • Day 4

      excited

      April 30, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

      We were picked up at 8. We were supposed to take our camping chairs with us. Lilian and me thought it would be for the trek tomorrow and so I also brought that heavy first aid kit with me. We realized at lunch that it was just for today. Now we understood why they were a bit puzzled me taking that big emergency bag with me. I really looked like the worried, spoiled tourist going up to 4000m and not wanting to take any risk. Very funny.
      We drove up a curvy road. And when they say curvy, it is curvy. Holymoly. In Bhutan there are 12 curves per kilometer in avarage. I think the road we took to go up to the highest asphalted street in Bhutan had at least one every 25m. And not just smooth ones. There was one u-turn after another. And how scenic! Well. Looking out was also the only option to not get sick. We arrived up there at 9:30 and it was cloudy and windy and very very nice. All those flags in the wind, it was a mystical. We went first up to the top, not to the top of the top, because there are sky burial. I’ll explain sky burial in the end, or at least how I think I understood Tenzin’s explanation in case you wann know.
      We walked down a forest to the Kila temple, where from Guru Rinpoche flew away to the one of yesterday. Amazing how those temples are biult in the rocks. There was also a nunnery. Every nunnery is run by a man. We visited the temple in the numnery. They all look similar with a lot of colors and a shrine in the middle. Tenzing praid for good weather on the trek as he did in all the temples. Let’s hope for the best.
      We were then picked up by our driver Jimmy and brought to a little green place where we had diner under some drizzle. I wanted to write that the food was delicious, but you know that already. Funny fact, the aspargus here don’t make your pee smell bad, my scientific curiosity wants to know why. Any idea?
      We continued our day with a visit to another temple and a walk down to the valley. Not wanting to change our habits, Lilian and me went for a coffee.
      Now we packed again our bags, I put everything into plastic bags (me that tries so hard in Switzerland to not use them...they are trashbags so I probably will be able to use them back home again) Anyway, my biggest ‘fear’ is to get wet. Next to freezing. Honestly, Lilian and me are bit scared of the cold. It is supposed to be -12degree in the night and we are just in tents. Let’s see how this goes and you’ll hear from me in a bit more the 10days. Woopwoop!

      Sky burial:
      For example children under 8 that died are not burnt like older people but put on a smooth stone and the vultures would eat them. It is considered that within 8years the child cannot get enough merit so it will get more through the bird. Nowadays there are not many birds around and they get eaten by dogs and other animals.
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    • Day 8

      rain keeps falling down - or not?

      May 4, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

      Hach, what a wonderful time we re having. It rained all night heavily, also through the morning so we postboned our trip to the lake to the afternoon. We spent the morning in the eating tent, reading, talking and just enjoying to be able to just let the hours go by. After lunch the rain stopped for good and we started to climb up the path to the lake that goes to two other passes, one to Linghsi and another somewhere else. The snow came down to probably 4600m, it was beautiful. The mountains were still shy, but the view still wow. We saw a lot of marmots and yaks and heaps of baby yaks, they are incredibly cute. So fluffy! We took a break and a kitkat (yes indeed) and enjoyed the quiet up there. Back in the camp we did some washing and then it was time again for tea and diner. Again delicious. With the tea we got popcorn. Yummy. Uptdate concerning our trek, probably we gonna do the long way up to the pass tomorrow, as proposed by Tenzing. I am all in, Lilian is a bit more hesitant because of the rain. We will see, i’ll take it as it comesRead more

    • Day 21

      Bumdra Trekking - Tigernest

      April 18, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Als wir am Tigernest (Taktshang) auf 3100 Metern ankommen sind wir ziemlich platt. Noch schlimmer wird es, als wir - zum ersten Mal überhaupt - Touristenmassen in Bhutan sehen. Wo kommen diese denn plötzlich her?

      Das Tigernest besteht aus acht an den Felsen gehängten Klöster und ist schön anzuschauen - von aussen spektakulär, von innen sehr historisch.
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    • Day 21

      Bundra Trekking - Teahouse

      April 18, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Endlich, nach 20000 Schritten bergab und bergauf, gibt es etwas zu essen. Wir sind aber so platt, dass wir lieber schlafen wollen anstatt was zu essen. Die Beine wollen nicht mal mehr die wenigen Schritte zum Büfett machen.Read more

    • Day 21

      Bundra Trekking - Erinnerungen

      April 18, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Was haben wir mitgebracht von der Trekking-Tour?

      - Die Erkenntnis, dass wir lieber nicht mehr über 3000 Höhenmeter übernachten müssen.
      - einen dicken Zehen, weil Jürgen in der Nacht mit den Zeltheringen getanzt hat.Read more

    • Day 21

      Hot Stone and Farmhouse

      April 18, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Zum Abschluss des Trekkings haben wir uns ein Hot Stone Bad und ein letztes, leckeres Abendessen verdient.
      Wir sitzen in grossen Holzkisten mit heissem Wasser, am unteren Ende werden heisse Steine nachgelegt, so dass das Wasser immer schön warm/heiss bleibt.
      Das Essen findet im Farmhouse statt und bildet den traditionellen Abschluss einer jeden Tour mit DrukAsia. Das Essen ist fantastisch, alle habe gute Laune und wir es gibt genug Ara für alle.
      Schade dass wir am nächsten Morgen schon um 5 Uhr aufstehen müssen und darum der Abend für uns gar nicht so lange wird.
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    • Day 21

      Bumdra Trekking - Abstieg

      April 18, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

      Der Anstieg hat es in sich. Nicht weil es anstrengend ist, sondern weil wir alle etwas leiden. Brigitte wegen der Höhe, Jürgen wegen seinem Zehen. Die Ausblicke und das Wetter sind aber toll und entschädigen für unser Leid.
      Aber 20000 Schritte bergab sind hart.
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    • Day 7

      i miss the rains down in africa (odr so)

      May 3, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

      So, it rains, I am again in the tent, it’s 2:30pm and we are already 1:30h in our camp. It is raining and we are supposed to see three big big mountains but maybe tomorrow. We’ll see. Since we gonna sleep for two nights here for some acclimatization reasons (we are at 4100m) we took a long time to make ourselves comfortable. We even did blow up our own mattesses, since until today, we slept o the ones privided by the trekking company (which we didn’t know were provided). So tonight I gonna sleep like the princess on the erbs. We will have coffee time at four and diner at seven, those two things will be the most exciting thing happening for the rest of the day. Oh stop, this is not true: As some of you know, we don’t plan to take the ordinary Trekking route but another one over two more passes. The last one of them is, since in between mountains still quite covered with snow. It snowed unusually heavy and often this winter. Seven times in Paro and also Thimphu when in ordinary winters it does once. Due to climate change selon Tenzing. Bhutan is the only country being not just CO2 neutral, but they have even a negative consumption. Due to water energy and a lot of trees. On our trek there are electricity poles everywhere. They built them two years ago, so the trek didn’t look pretty and tourists complained. Incredible, it is such life- quality that electricity brings. That arrogance of some to have all the luxury of what the western world can offer you but please not in those countries I as a rich tourist go to because it looks ugly. So, where was I? Oh yeah, our trek is not likely to happen how it is planned because the horses won’t be able to pass through the snow. And without the horses, we are lost. So Tenzing will have three propositions on how to continue the trek.
      Today we started a bit later, after another warm night in the tent. The weather was gray but dry. There is another group of two doing the Jomolhari and they add another on, the Laya-trek (oder so). They are from Austria. We probably gonna meet them more often. Otherwise it is quite a lonely trek. After a couple of times we reached a settlement of Nomads who were playing arrow. I just forget the right word for that sports. Anyway, it is their national sport but at the Olympic they get beaten by the Corean because Bhutanese are very laid back and therefore not so successful (Tenzings words). Aah doctors make around 25’000 Ngultrum, which is noteven 500$ a month. Highly underpaid but still happy. Good money according to Tenzing you make in the army. Bhutanese army is connected to the Indian ones (as is their currency, it is 1:1 to the Indian Rubies). So if you do career in the army to get a higher rank you go to India. And when back here you are well paid. Economically they rely a lot of tourism nowadays. There is joke in Bhutan that you are either a guide or working in a travel agency. There are 4000 guides in this country. I was wrong about the control of the tourism. They don’t, it is limited by the amount of hotel rooms and flights toand out of Bhutan. I already mentioned the Visa. You haveto pay 250$ a day to go to Bhutan. Around 200$ are left after hotel and eating, so this goes to the state for cultur, edication, infrastructure. Interesting way to do. According to our book US people stay 6.4 days, German 7 days and Swiss the longest with 10 and a bit days in avarage.
      So, we were observing the arrow thing and were having lunch at the same time. There were some kids around so I could give away the stuffed animals I got from my cousine Christa back home. A bit earlier there were men constructing a bridge to keep the river from the way. I asked Tenzing if I could give them some Swiss chocolate, he said I could. He made an offering of money so since they were cleaning and taking care of our way, they would pray for us to get all the obstacles out of the way in our lifes. They have a lot of things like that in their culture. A lot of stories on how things happend and why they happened like that. I am very impressed by this country. Tenzing also said, that five days in the country you stop being a tourist and become a guest. After more then 5 days of trekking you start to be family.
      So after diner the three options went down to one since there is a zyklone hitting India sometime and bringing unusual heavy amount of rain. Tenzing said we could go over the pass the day after tomorrow to Lingshi, then doing the second one, heading up to the third, coming the same way down and somehow getting to Thimphu. It would be raining all the time. So. Lilian and me discussed a lot about if it was clever to go higher in the mountains when the weather gets worse. It isn’t just about us being comfy and warm but where is the sense going up three times to 5000m when we would just get grey and rain and fog? We were also a bit scared of being wet, also the tents. We asked if there was also the possibility of turning around. There was of course. We could go back, not exactly the same way, spend a night in Paro and two additional ones in Thimphu. It is quite clear that they don’t want to do that. Tenzing said he had once someone come with a lawsuit since it didn’t went according to plan. We assured him that we were happy with whatever we can take, and tes we used the lame phrase of rather be safe then sorry. Or rather be dry then sorry? Anyway, tomorrow lazy day ahead with a walk to a lake. Let’s see how this goes, it looks like I’ll be back in civilization earlier then wanted.
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    • Day 26

      Heading to the Monastery -Tigers Nest

      November 16, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

      We have to descend down some steps (about 300) to a waterfall and then climb the last stairs to the monastery. It is narrow in some parts and I’m thinking I can hear Dianne’s heart pounding. We do make it to the monastery and temples that are the Tigers Nest. It is a nice spot, but no pictures from inside like all the temples we have visited.Read more

    • Day 10

      Back to Paro

      May 14, 2013 in Bhutan

      Our time spent in the Phobjika Valley will certainly rate as the highlight of the trip. The electricity failed soon after our arrival (I gather this is a regular occurrence here) but it did not affect our enjoyment at all. The place was just so peaceful and beautiful that we did not need Internet and TV or any other trappings to enjoy ourselves. Yesterday we set off on a hike along the Valley and marveled at the scenes that unfolded before us as we walked along. At one point we came across a group of people building a large new home - not a power tool in sight but the workmanship was superb. While carpenters were busy hand shaping huge wooden beams the women were busy tamping down the earth in the packed earth walls. It was fascinating to see the way the whole village worked together to build the new house. Apparently this is what they do for each new married couple.

      This morning our time in the valley reluctantly came to an end as we packed our bags and rode the bus back up to the top of the 3300 m pass. We then got back on the bikes for the longest and most exhilerating downhill you could imagine. It was approx 52 km long and a vertical drop of just over 2000 metres. It was a pity that the road surface was appalling for most of the way. The surface was full of potholes and in places it has disappeared altogether. In several locations large landslides had almost completely blocked the roadway and new slips looked about to occur at any minute. Once again we had superb weather for the ride.
      The weather in Bhutan can be very fickle to say the least, but for the duration of our stay we have not had a single day when it rained during a ride or walk ! I liked to think that was something top do with the spirit of Camelot.

      When we finally ran of downhill riding on the outskirts of Panukha we bade farewell to our bikes for the final time. The bikes were Trek 4300 MTB bikes and they had taken a huge beating but had emerged unscathed through the trip. The rest of the long return journey to Paro was done in the bus and this gave us a final chance to see the roads that we had previously ridden along.

      We arrived back at hotel in Paro soon after 4 pm. Later in the evening we said our final farewell and thanks to our truck driver. Since we will not be using the bikes any longer, he will now return to Thimpu where he lives. Tomorrow we will taking the difficult climb up to the Tiger's Nest, one of Bhutan's most venerated places and probably the most photographed site in Bhutan.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Paro Dzongkhag, Paro, སྤ་རོ་རྫོང་ཁག་, Distrito de Paro, पारो-भूटान, Паро

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