Las Quemas

We had a well needed van service and admin day stocking up on everything we needed for the next leg of our trip in Puerto montt before starting our roadtrip on chile's ruta 7 known as the Carretera Austral. The remote highway runs south for about 1,240 kilometers providing access to rural and sparsely populated patagonia. After the first hour of driving on the route, we had our first ferry, a 30 minute journey from Caleta La Arena to
Caleta Puelche. We then continued along the Ruta 7 to Hornopirén to catch our 2am night ferry. This was the first Copec we stopped at that had to a very long queue for fuel, a sign of how remote our journey was ahead. We also spent some time here exploring the local craft market.

From Hornopirén we sailed for 3 1/2 hours through the Comao fjord to Leptepu, a supposely scenic journey although it was nighttime so we slept the whole way in the van. Then after docking at Leptepu, we drove 10 kilometers on a gravel road to Fiordo Largo, where we started the second ferry crossing the Reñihue fjord to Caleta Gonzalo arriving at 7am on 8th February.

After a snooze alongside the road, we decided to make the most of the good weather and completed a short walk along sendero los alerces in Pumalín Park. This path leads through a forest of giant Alerces, some almost 3000 years old. These tall, ancient trees are one of the largest and longest-living species on Earth.

From here we continued along the road to Volcan Chaitén which is also in Pumalín Park, picking up some Chilean hitch hikers on route. We then started a steep 3hr return track up to the caldera of Volcan Chaitén, which erupted in 2008. It was tough in the heat with little wind and relentless horseflies at the top but worth it for the views. That night we wild camped at the pier in Chaitén and caught a lovely sunset.

The next day 09/02 we detoured from the carretera austral to head to Futaleufú. The Futaleufu River houses some of the best rafting in the world; best known for the technicality and quantity of its rapids, the incredible turquoise colour and clarity of the water and the stunning mountain scenery! Usually the road to get here is known to be quite pretty although we had mainly an overcast journey on the gravel road. Luckily the sun came out just as we arrived and we found the perfect camp spot along the river just outside the town.
With beautiful sunny weather, we booked a white water rafting trip with Patagonia elements the following morning. Initially I was quite anxious but it turned into an addictive adrenaline rush surviving the rapids without capsizing. Bri our American guide told Joe he peaked with his first rafting trip experiencing some of the best rapids in the world with the Futaleufú river at the perfect water level! Afterwards we drove back to Ruta 7 stopping for a quick rest in Villa Santa Lucia who happened to have a fiesta with market stalls and a quirky uniformed live band performing to celebrate 41 years of the village. Just as we were leaving, the rain returned and we picked up 2 more hitch hikers Nicolas from Argentina and Philipe from Sweden who had been waiting a few hours for a lift and were just about to give up! We had another few hours of driving through mist and rain to finish at a cute little village Puyuhuapi where we said goodbye to our hitchhikers and found a wild camp spot just at the edge of town in front of a fjord harbour before heading out for a few drinks.

The following morning, we woke up to another wet day to continue along the gravel roads stopping at Parque Nacional Quelat to complete the hike Sendero Ventisquero Colgante which treated us to views of a hanging glacier. We finished up the day at Camping borderio in Villa Mañihuales which had a lovely little Refugio to shelter from the rain along with a little woodfired chilean stove. Here we meet some chileans completing the Carretera Austral by bicycle. One gave us some foraged El calafete berry's, famous in Patagonia and showed us his book on foraging.

Recommendations:
Futaleufú whitewater rafting- Patagonia elements
Hanging glacier in Parque Nacional Quelat
Volcan chaiten 1/2 day hike
El Bosque Cocina&Bar, Puerto Montt
Restorán Comuy-Huapi, Puyuhuapi

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