Stubbekøbing

The next morning, we woke up and headed to the ferry crossing at Puttgarden. It took about an hour to cross the small stretch of ocean to Denmark, and all of us cyclists were met on the other side by a port official who spoke English with a Scottish accent 🤔.

We began on another old railway road, where we stopped to eat some of the many wild plums and say hello to the cutest kittens I’ve ever seen in my life 🥹. I would have taken them with me if I could. We were also overtaken by a 100-strong mini motorbike gang, which was wild. We spent our first night at a shelter, which are these purpose-built open huts where you can camp for free or for around €7. They often have a fire pit, maybe a picnic table, a tap for water, and a toilet. This one was right by a lake and was gorgeous. With no shower, we tried out our new 10-liter water carrier as a makeshift open-air shower, which worked amazingly but was cold.

The next day, we got caught in a lot of rain, but I spotted a small picnic area with cover where we managed to eat lunch. After lunch the weather cleared up in time for us to enjoy the beautiful forest with the sea right next to it. With the sun now out, we stopped for coffee and tea, and I found my first tick feeding between my fingers. I don’t think it had been there long, but we tweezed it off pretty well and reminded ourselves to check twice daily for ticks.

We finished the day by taking a small ferry across to Bogø Island and then crossing a dyke to Møn, where we stayed at another shelter in a man’s huge garden. It was very picturesque, and another outdoor shower was had.

The next day was a little loop around the coast, which we could have easily skipped; however, I said, “Let’s do it, I’m sure it’s lovely,” and a few hours in, I seriously regretted it. It was very hilly, constantly up and down with quite steep inclines. It was pretty due to the slight elevation, but I was hating every incline—and there were tons of them! Grrrr.

I didn’t walk any of it, though, and we eventually made it to a shelter in the grounds of a garden museum, which had showers and beautiful grounds to explore.Read more