Here you’ll find travel reports about Zealand. Discover travel destinations in Denmark of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

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  • Day808

    Who knew there were so many islands to explore in such a small area of Denmark? We are finally settled near Mosehældgård woodland shelter on Møn, our fourth island of the day, and we have company. A young grey and white cat is climbing over the bonnet and wing mirrors mewing loudly. She came bounding up when we arrived at this gravel and grass parking area and immediately made friends with Will, bounding through the long grass alongside him as he went to check out the camping area with its wooden sleeping hut, compost toilet, picnic tables and stone campfire circles. Vicky fed her some of Poppy's food and treats, much to our beloved dog's displeasure.

    We started off the day on tiny Farø island and were pleased to note that after yesterday's ghastly grey weather, the skies had begun to look brighter. A well built up causeway took us over to Bogø island and soon after, another bridged the sea to Møn; a larger island with acres of green, gently rolling fields.

    Møn had come highly recommended, both by the guidebook and by locals we'd talked to on a neighbouring island. From its long list of attractions we'd picked out a couple to visit, the first of which was Klekkende Høj, a 5000 year old burial mound. Driving down a single track country lane we parked on a small gravel area before following a 300m long path worn into the mud through the middle of a brassica field. Ahead of us rose a grassy dimple, reaching about 6m above field level. Two bare earth tunnels approximately 1m high, with stone slabs lining the walls and roof provided entry to the centre of the mound and a small information board stood discretely to the side, as seems to be the way with many Danish sites of interest. The south tunnel was blocked at the far end so we both got on our hands and knees and entered the north tunnel, Vicky leading the way. All of a sudden Will felt something prodding him from behind, he twisted his head round and thought for a second that Poppy had followed us, but no, he found himself face to face with a German Shepherd! Luckily it was friendly and soon went on its way! After about 10m we emerged into a small chamber about 1.5m high where, between two large slabs through a glass pane, we could see another chamber. Piles of bones, that looked like a mix of human and other animals lay amongst earthenware pottery containers and a complete human skeleton sat up against the far corner, wearing a hat and furs. We generally have little interest in museums, but viewing historical ways of life in situe holds value for us and we really enjoyed the hands on experience of crawling through the dark tunnel to take a peak at the past.

    Continuing to Møn's north coast, we passed through Ulvshale village; pretty strips of pale yellow sand backed by maram grass and a string of 'cute as can be' beach houses, many of them made of wooden board painted in an attractive mix of colours. Each compound had hedges or rustic looking fences marking out their own little gardens.

    From Møn we hopped over to Nyord Island via a single lane causeway controlled by traffic lights. The marshlands we could see as we crossed are classified as a Ramsar Site and protected because of their importance to geese, ducks and other wading birds. At 5 sq km Njord is more than five times larger than Farø, where we had set off from that morning, but like Farø, it could hardly be classed as a big island. Much of it is salt meadow and we passed hardy looking black or brown cattle grazing happily on this. In winter the meadows are flooded, reducing the island to a fifth of its summer area. One of the reasons we wanted to visit was because Njord is certified as one of twenty official International Dark Sky Communities and one of the best places in Denmark for stargazing. Unfortunately the cloud cover wasn't set to lift anytime soon so we didn't stop overnight.

    Back over the causeway to Møn we drove a short distance to Mosehældgård free camping area and pulled into the woodland clearing. Although we'd stayed at several of these shelters over the summer the hot weather had meant most had signs prohibiting campfires. Well, with the amount of rain that had fallen since, there was no problem here and Will built and lit a fire for us to sit round while he played guitar. A kitten had joined the young cat and we sat with the warmth of the flames watching its boundless energy. It jumped here there and everywhere, swatting the insects it disturbed from the long grass and crunching them up if it caught them. Although the forecast had been cloudy, as evening drew on the sky cleared a little and the brightest of the stars shone through.

    The night chilled to 10°C so the heating was called for when we got up the following morning. Dew lay heavy on the grass as Vicky went for an early walk along part of the Camono; a trail that extends 175 km over Denmark's southern islands. Our last act before we left was to take a peak at the hornet's nest in the 7ft 'bug house'. At around 2.5cm long the flying insects were so much larger than we are used to and we didn't hang around too long! Hornets are becoming an increasingly common sight here in Denmark as the climate warms.
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  • Day809

    Møns Klint and Hvide Klint beach

    September 13 in Denmark

    At the end of a single track road we've squeezed Martha into the corner of a car park that's only just wide enough to do a three point turn. With fields to either side and only the reeds separating us from a beautiful crescent beach ahead, we are pretty chuffed with this overnight spot at Hvide Klint.

    This morning we woke to brilliant blue skies and after Vicky gave Will's hair a trim we set off back towards Ulvshale, the pretty beach village we'd passed through yesterday. Will enjoyed a refreshing dip in the clear waters and we were away, on to our next destination, Møns Klint; the highest cliffs in Denmark. To access the site we drove along a dirt track in Beech forest. We didn't meet a single vehicle on this road but there were 50 or so stationed in the car park beyond the raising barrier at the end. Thank goodness we came off-season because it meant we were easily able to find a spot. The parking ticket covered the whole day, allowing us to grab some lunch in the van without worrying about 'getting our money's worth' from the £4 fee.

    Making sure Poppy was comfortable we hopped out and skirted the perimeter of the Geocentre building. It provided info and exhibits about the cliffs, but we were more interested in seeing the real things so we checked the map on a display board and decided on a round trip along the cliff top, down to and along the beach and back up to the van. People hummed around the centre but we left them behind as soon as we entered the Beech woodland walk. These mature trees covered the cliff top and their trunks and branches framed small glimpses of the famous chalk cliffs with vibrantly turquoise waters lapping at their feet. Most of the path was fenced off from the edge and at certain angles it was abundantly clear why. Tree roots were the only thing supporting the ground as it had been seriously undercut, leaving a deceptive overhang that couldn't be detected from above. After just over 1km we came to the steep wooden steps leading down to the shore, approximately 120m below. Will's knees and the tendons in his feet are prone to problems, as are Vicky's hips, so we took it easy. Even so, Vicky found her legs were shaking when we finally stepped out onto the grey stones covering the beach.

    Møns Klint are Denmark's equivalent of the white cliffs of Dover. While England's cliffs stretch further, they rise to a height of 110m whereas Møns reach just a little higher at 128m; no wonder Vicky's legs were protesting! From the narrow shore, the towering chalk formations really were stunning, especially when the sun highlighted their bright white faces. As we walked northwards we noticed dark flint stones tracing diagonal lines in the face. The chalk consists of crushed shells from microscopic creatures that lived on the sea bed over 70 million years ago. The shells were compacted and pushed upwards by glaciers to form hills and emerged as cliffs when the ice melted 11,000 years ago. The sea and other elements are taking their toll on the soft limestone and the remnants of landslides lay for us to walk over. It certainly wasn't the sort of place you'd feel safe returning to on a stormy day!

    Approaching the steps that led back up to the car park there were a few groups, families and couples milling around taking in the views. It was then we saw a little seal just 5m out in the shallows, sunning itself on a submerged rock. What a way to end our time on the beach! Surprisingly the climb back up the cliffside wasn't as difficult as we'd imagined, but we still treated ourselves to some ice cream when we got back to the van!

    We'd paid our parking fee using a credit card at the ticket machine and the scanning software recognised this as it registered our number plate, opening the barrier for us to pass through without the need for us to stop and feed the ticket in. We couldn't help but think that if the car park on a little island could master this technology, surely the Scandlines ferry company could dispense with the need for us to show our booking number, as we'd had to when crossed!

    It wasn't too long a drive to our overnight beach parking and despite having had dip earlier in the day, Will took to the sea once again, making the most of the late summer.

    We had a treat in store when the sun set. The blue sky day carried over into a clear night sky and the stars were magnificent. We hadn't previously realised that Møn was an International Dark Sky Community along with Njord Island but could well believe it. At just after 2am we woke and went outside to gaze into the atmosphere. From our position on the beach the landscape around us was flat with very few trees. The stars reached so low to the horizon and the Milky Way stretched accross the twinkling blackness. Will went back in after a while but Vicky stayed out for nearly 2 hours playing with the cameras and lying back on the sand staring up at space and time, quietly blowing her mind with the enormity and beauty of our universe. She eventually got brought back to earth when the cool night caused her to start shivering and a sandflee jumped onto her throat. It was time to go in, snuggle up to her living hot water bottle and get some shut eye!
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  • Day806

    Most Southerly Point in Denmark!

    September 10 in Denmark

    The three of us are perched on top of the clay cliffs at Gedser Odde on Falster Island. The pointed peninsula is the most southerly place in Denmark and we have panoramic views of the sea. Scandlines ferries, sailing from Rostock, occasionally power past, on their way to dock at Gedser a few kilometres to the north west of us. Close by the red and white Gedser Fyr (lighthouse) stands guard, ready to warn vessels of their proximity to this finger of land.

    We left the friendly Lolland Island marina where we'd spent two restful days and stopped in at a large Fotex supermarket. We really appreciate the range of organic products available in Danish supermarkets and we stocked up. Interestingly the receipt grouped the items under their product types rather than the order in which they came. Soon afterwards we crossed over the straights between Lolland and Falster Island, via the 1km long bridge at Nykøbing and headed south. Gedser
    mainstreet was lined with poles proudly flying the red and white Danish flags, ensuring those who arrived on the ferry from Rostock knew in no uncertain terms that this was no longer Germany.

    Our quiet overnight car park had a set of wooden steps leading down to a stoney beach where battered wooden groynes did their best to preserve the shoreline. A sign told us the building a few hundred metres away was a bird station and we were keen to explore, but Vicky was having a bad health day health so Will stayed and looked after her. As has often been the case, Martha proved herself a great 'bird station' when a Sparrowhawk used the stairpost as a perch and we were able to observe it from just 15m away! Will also managed to spot a seal poking its head out from the waves! Despite the uninviting overcast skies he couldn't resist following in its err... flippersteps? and going for an evening dip. We were at the most southerly point in the country after all!

    Offshore we could see the same wind farm as we'd had sight of from Stubberup Harbour on the previous two nights. From our new position we got to view the setting sun colour the sky behind the turbines come dusk. Night time brought wind and rain but the latter was intermittent and in the morning we nipped out between the spells to explore the bird station and very tip of the peninsula. With schools back in full swing and the weather driving many indoors, it was just the two of us most of the time. Buried in the grass alongside the path leading to the point, we found a dozen or so tiles decorated by children with images of local wildlife such as seals and Eider ducks. Approaching the building we saw coordinates on the wall in large white letters, reminding us of last year's journey to the Arctic Circle and the most northerly point in mainland Europe, where we frequently saw the latitude of these significant spots. We couldn't resist a photo! The centre itself displayed boards with information on the windfarm and local wildlife. It told us there were 162 turbines, but of course Will already new this. If you put a mathematician in sight of such an array for 3 days what else do you expect them to do but count? Interestingly the display showed an image of the flight paths of tracked birds and how they interacted with the windfarm. Many skirted its perimeter but it seemed a considerable number plotted a straight course between the rows.

    We made our way down to the beach and clambered out on an uneven stone jetty, taking this to be the most southerly point (we may well have been mistaken but it provided a good focal point). To the east a number of rocks stood proud of the waves. Cormorants roosted on two, while Eider Ducks occupied a low platform that they could easily hop up and down from.

    We made it back to Martha just as the rain began, so quickly packed up and set off to find our next adventure.
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  • Day816

    A gravel path drops down to an artificial lake with a couple of tree clad islands and a long wooden pier. Our windscreen view looks out upon it from the open, grassy Himmelsøen car park, not far from Roskilde. Himmelsøen roughly translates as 'sky lake' and from our elevated position we can see where the name came from.

    We've driven the short distance from Roskilde's Viking Ship Museum where we have had a truly great day! The museum site is small and mostly open air, situated at the head of Roskilde Fjord. The chance of sailing a traditional boat initially lured us in, but with the winds from Storm Ali heading our way and knowing this activity would close for the season in 10 days, we hardly dared to hope that it would be running today. As luck would have it the kiosk attendant confirmed that the first of three planned outings was going ahead so we eagerly paid our entrance fee of £16 each and booked up for an additional £14 each.

    The site was very hands on, with a large longboat called the Sea Stallion moored at the dock that you could climb into and explore. There were perhaps 20 or so smaller vessels bobbing in the harbour, that had been made on-site, with information boards displaying their credentials. Vicky managed to video call her Dad who loves this sort of thing and we explored together for a little while until it was time to get our waterproof jackets for the boat trip.

    The captain met us and 11 others at the prearranged point and directed us into the the boat shed for a brief introduction and demonstration of how to use the buoyancy aids. We all trooped down to the jetty where we boarded Bjornfjord; a 10.2m x 2.6m shallow draught sailing boat with a 25 sq. m sail. Our captain showed the group how to sit, put the oars into place and went through what different instructions meant, before we boarded and rowed out of the harbour. There were 12 rowers and it was quite difficult for everyone to keep in time, even when the captain assigned one person at the front to set the pace. As well as the timing of the strokes, the length made a difference and plenty of people got the long, narrow wooden oars tangled along the way. With our experience canoeing we felt we both did ok.

    Once clear of the harbour and in the open fjord we took the oars in and the captain hoisted the sail, giving Will the job of guiding the heavy wooden boom from which it hung. Two of the group were put in charge of hauling the sheets that moved the sail from one side to the other and we began gliding along under wind power. The boat was very stable, only tilting when the stronger gusts filled the sails. After an aborted tack, but successful gybe, we headed back towards the harbour, where we once again got to row her. We were on the boat for more than 30 minutes but the time seemed to fly by. We both really enjoy sailing and to be able to crew a traditional boat for a trip out on the fjord was an amazing experience.

    You can watch a video of our experience on the VnW Travels YouTube channel:

    Following a quick check on Poppy, we joined a guided tour of the boatbuilder's yard. Our guide introduced himself as Silas and began by showing us the traditional boat that was being made for fjord trips, explaining the techniques and materials used, how long it took and that one of the reasons they were doing it was to keep the skills alive. This boat was made by sight; the project headed up by a master builder who didn't use drawings or models. Outside he showed us a Viking ship they were recreating based on the remains of one that had been found. This was taking a lot longer because they were building it similarly to how the Vikings would have. Instead of getting wood precut from the sawmill, they chopped and planed planks by hand from the tree trunks we could see around us. They had previously made a replica using iron rivets forged by the blacksmith on-site, but this stood as a display on land because the iron rivets split the wood after being exposed to sea water.

    Other displays at the museum included Lime bast (the inner bark of Lime trees), hanging and drying in order to make rope. A woodworker carved a figurehead and a collection of ropes made from an astonishing array of different materials, from seal hide to hazel wood, lay curled for you to pick up and feel.

    There was enough to keep us occupied for the whole day but we were beginning to tire so wandered over to the building that displayed 5 original Viking ships. The museum had created metal skeletons onto which the ancient wood was layed, to give us an idea of how the boats were initially constructed. The building also housed a 'Climb on Board' exhibition comprising of a room with two ships, complete with sails and treasure chests. Clothes were hung at the entrance and you could dress up, board the vessels and pretend to be a Viking as sound effects and visual projections of the sky and sea helped your imagination along the way!

    We probably wouldn't have visited Roskilde's Viking Ship Museum had it not been for the chance to sail the traditional boat, but we ended up enjoying so much more than this and we needed to drag ourselves away in the end!

    Thankfully the parking at Himmelsøen wasn't far. Vicky had a rest while Will took his fishing gear to the lake and got talking to someone from Devon who'd lived here 23 years. They told him the lake had only been built in the last 5 years, mainly as an attraction for the huge music festival held here every year. There was even a 'horse bathing' area provided!
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  • Day802

    We've made it to Denmark! The northern shore of Lolland island to be precise. The pizza is in the oven and for a change we appreciate the heat radiating into the van. Rain rattles on the roof, running and dripping off the cab overhang onto the bonnet. We are in a small gravel car park whose large potholes are now filled with muddy grey water. It might not sound inviting but it really is rather cosy. Out of the windscreen we can see through a gap in the green reeds to a shallow bay dotted with more than a hundred swans, their impeccable white feathers making them stand out well against the steely grey waters.

    We set off in good time this morning because we had a ferry to catch. The 10km drive to the Scandlines ferry terminal at Puttgarden went smoothly and we arrived well ahead of our alloted departure.

    In July and August we spent over 6 weeks touring the Danish peninsula of Jutland and now plan to focus on its islands. We had the choice of driving up Jutland and crossing over the free bridge to Funen island before paying the €51 toll on the bridge to Zealand, the largest island and home of the capital Copenhagen. We chose the more direct route of sailing over the Fehmarn Belt from Puttgarden in northern Germany to Rødbyhavn on Lolland, Denmark. It set us back €115 but it saved us time and diesel. Also, if we left Zealand via the toll bridge, there would be no need to retrace our steps to the ferry port.

    It was grey and drizzly as we showed the attendant our booking reference number and they handed us the van ticket and our receipt. We could have just rocked up and payed for the crossing at the port but we'd saved €9 by booking online. Another piece of paper that was handed over was a coupon 'entitling' us to a packet of discounted cigarettes each to be 'consumed on board'. Vicky lost her Mum to lung cancer when she was young so as you can imagine, neither of us were impressed.

    We were one of the last to board and as we climbed the stairs from the car deck, the Prince Richard set sail. We headed straight for the outdoor area on the top deck, leaning over the railings and watching as we left the harbour. The rain had thankfully stopped and the air was warm so we stayed out for a little while. Will noticed one of the straps on a lifeboat was flapping free- not something that filled us with confidence! There was an announcement about how, because the ferry was a hybrid, the emissions had been reduced, but by the look of the plume emerging from the chimney, it still had a way to go.

    The inside was clean with the usual 'probably better than duty free' shop and eateries. To her suprise Vicky spotted a large dog settled by its owner; dogs aren't allowed off the car deck on ferries crossing the English channel. It would have been nice to have Poppy with us but there was no way she could have made the stairs and she was quite content in the van. We spent the rest of the crossing in the quiet panorama lounge whose padded, high backed seats were very comfy. The 45 minute journey was over before we knew it and we waited in line to have our passports checked and the van searched- a bit unusual considering we were within the Schengen Area

    For our first overnight stop we headed towards Lolland's north shore where there were some modern standing stones we thought might be interesting. The roads were quiet and the landscape gently rolling as we tootled along between farmers' fields and the occasional woodland. Following a single track road we arrived at the deserted Ravnsby car park and breathed a sigh of relief. It felt good to be back in this country. Because the parking area was small we shimmied on to a patch of grass at the edge. Unfortunately it was at an angle but we could put up with it for one night.

    The sky brightened as the sun came out in the afternoon and we set off on the tandem to Dodekalitten; the standing stones. There was some confusion over where they were. Maps.Me and the signposts pointed in one direction but Trip Advisor had them placed differently. After 2km we found that the latter was mistaken and began the 3.4km journey to where they actually were. Approaching on a track that alternated between grass and gravel we arrived at the six, 7-8m tall stones. The quiet but exposed grassy field in which they are set looks out over farmland to the sea. They are a modern art instillation in progress and as yet, only half of the granite blocks have been sourced, the plan being to create a ring of twelve. One sculptor has worked by hand to carve a head on three of the stones so far. Within the circle was a ring of upright logs with faces carved in their wood. We assume this is some temporary school project. Sitting on one of several smooth rocks we took in the place as a low murmuring rose up around us. There are speakers concealed in the rocks. They play a chant that grows to a beautiful wordless song. It reminded Will of some of Pink Floyd's more esoteric tracks. The music has been created especially for the circle, based on a people called the Lolers who communed through song and settled on Lolland a long time ago. There were a few other tourists there when we arrived but they drifted away and left just us, the stones and music on the undulating hillside. It felt peaceful and absorbing to lie back and watch the stoic stone faces, the breeze, gentle, as white clouds drift by on their background of blue.

    Our return journey goes no smoother than our outward one, as shortly after departing the chain came off the bike and got jammed behind the cogs. Will went to take the back wheel off, only to find the replacement dog bone spanner we bought isn't large enough for the nut. He eventually got it sorted just before two other cyclists offer help. Our spirits were lifted yet again as we cycled by an honesty stall at the end of someone's drive. We've seen loads of these in Denmark but rarely had the time to think and space to pull over as we zoom by in Martha Motorhome. The bike affords us this time and it is easy to stop on the side of the unbusy country lane. Wooden shelves display brown paper bags of beans, onions and a box of spicy looking red chilli peppers. On the ground are rich orange pumpkins and small marrows. Everything has a suggested price written on it in black marker pen. We take our pick and deposit 21kr in the slotted money tin, feeling happy that we finally got to make use of a stall.

    The next day we spend half an hour exploring Ravnsborg Volsted, the remains of a 1330s castle on a 18m high mound next to our car park. Most of the stones are covered with earth, grasses and red berried hawthorns and we don't find the site particularly interesting, but the elevation affords us some good views of the coastline.
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  • Day819

    Tystrup Sø

    September 23 in Denmark

    We once more find ourselves in a woodland clearing with various paths leading off to a lake. Although the land isn't particularly hilly, both yesterday's and today's lakes require a descent to reach them, unlike so many of the Danish waters we've explored this summer.

    With the weather turning colder we've been using the van's central heating; something which puts a major drain on the leisure batteries. Will had found an official motorhome stopover in nearby Ringsted, offering free electricity, so this morning we made a beeline for this and hooked up, attaching our portable powerpack, laptop and phones to the van's sockets before setting off to the supermarket on foot with a couple of rucksacks. By the time we'd returned and had lunch the battery level was looking a lot healthier!

    We have limited space for rubbish in the van and this is part of the reason we always try to buy the supermarket items with least packaging. Lately we've been removing the unnecessary packaging as we unload our food into the van and disposing of it in the nearest bin, preferably in the supermarket car park. Today we did an experiment to see just how much packaging there was and you can see the result in the photo. The items we bought were a substantial part of our weekly supply but we are likely to need another two smaller shops in the week. The wrapping we threw away, much of it non-recyclable plastic, overspilled our little bin and we were pleased to be able to dispose of it straight away.

    Next on the list of jobs was to do a little washing and fill and empty the water tanks and toilet at van services off the motorway. After this we were done with the chores and free to drive to the lovely car park at Tystrup Sø and chill out. Vicky edited photos in the van while Will headed down to the lake with his rods. Much of the shore was fringed with reeds but there was a sandy beach backed by a large patch of lush green grass with picnic tables and fire grills. It is coming towards the end of our Danish adventure now and we feel we are really going to miss all these wonderful places and facilities!
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  • Day810

    Stevns Naturcentre, Zealand

    September 14 in Denmark

    Beside us is a wildflower meadow. Its late summer colours are muted but there is still an attractive mix of yellows and mauves amongst the tall green grasses. Our eyes are trained on a hovering Sparrowhawk, its eyes fixed intently on some unsuspecting prey 10m beneath it. We are in an end of road parking area at Stevns Klint on the East coast of the island of Zealand.

    This morning we set off from our beach stop on Møn, Vicky's neck a little stiff from stargazing. We travelled back over the causeways to Bogø and Farø islands, before taking the North Farø Bridge to Zealand, Denmark's largest and most densely populated island and home to the capital. We planned to visit Copenhagen at the weekend so covered a decent distance up the east side. Arriving at Stevns Klint via a single track country lane, Will went out to explore while Vicky got the van set up for a cuppa. Klint is Danish for cliff and the area is part of a 17km stretch of white chalk cliffs. It has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site and is well known for its geological significance. There was a small visitor centre but this had shut for the season.

    At any one time of the day there were a dozen or so twitchers gathered on the wooden observation tower and at various points along the cliff, their long camera lenses and scopes trained on birds of prey. We read that Peregrine Falcons had recently returned to the area and nested on the cliff face.

    We love the way this country encourages people to get out into nature and and the free camp area and shelter here were well used; a large group of teenagers on hire bikes arriving in the late afternoon and setting up to stay the night. There was a small amount of noise but they left the area spotless when they departed the following morning, vacating it for a few families with young children to move in, unpacking bottles of pop, beer and packs of burgers from their boot.

    We spent the afternoon looking into getting Will's passport renewed and taking a portrait photo for it. You can submit the application online but the government requires you to send in your old passport before issuing a new one. We will need to be in the UK to do this, leaving enough time for the new one to arrive before we cross over the channel to continue our travels.

    The following day we waited until mid afternoon before leaving for Copenhagen because Will had found city parking that was free afer 5pm on a Saturday. We enjoyed a walk along the cliffedge, looking down to the stones and fallen chunks of chalk 40m below. They weren't as tall as the ones we'd recently visited at Møns Klint but they were still impressive.
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  • Day804

    Stubberup Harbour, Lolland

    September 8 in Denmark

    The waves lap at the stone harbour wall just a few metres to our left and ahead of us an array of colourful little boats bob in the small marina, tied between a weather beaten wooden jetty and mooring stakes. Ripples slap gently against their hulls. There are four swans who live close by, dipping their heads into the shallow waters of the bay from day break to nightfall. Larger groups are stationed farther away, near a great flock of geese that is occasionally disturbed and takes to the skies amidst a cacophony of loud honks. On the horizon is a huge wind farm, its turbines appearing in miniature because of the distance between us.

    It was a pleasant 50km drive through rolling farmland from the north shore of Lolland to the hamlet of Stubberup, here on the south east of the island. It was lunch time when we arrived and Will thought there might be a café in one of the earth-red wooden huts set back from the water with a few picnic tables outside. He enquired at the only one open and was told that it was a club, but we were welcome to join them for a beer. In need of food we retreated to the van but returned later and bought our Tuborg Classics from a beer bottle vending machine on the wall. The dozen people in the cabin are friendly and encouraged us to sit with them. We were going to sit outside because of the chain smoking but didn't want to turn down their hospitality so pulled up a couple of chairs near the doorway. The people were really friendly, telling us they were part of a boat club with 120 members but only 5 boats. They asked us where we were from, where we are going and recommended some places to visit.

    Taking our leave we wandered up the country lane. Several of our friends have recommended Geocaching and there was one hidden just 200m away. Many of the houses in Stubberup are fairytale timber frame and thatch rooved affairs, with well tended gardens growing apples, veg and late summer flowers. We found the cache wedged at the base of a tree, a plastic tub containing a collection of trinkets. Signinh the ledger, took a peg and left a small float.

    Over the two days we stayed here Vicky worked on completing the new cover for the passenger seat. It was tricky because of the leatherette material she'd previously backed in foam and because of the curves and angles of all the different bits, not to mention the elasticated base. Needless to say she was very relieved when she finished. It was too windy for canoeing most of the time so Will whiled away the hours fishing, swimming, doing some more fishing, then some more swimming... you get the idea! The marina was a quiet place but a few people wandered to the end where Will had set up his rods. Some went for a short swim off the dedicated platform and many struck up a conversation with Will. Like the people we met in the club, the locals he spoke to were very friendly, asking why we weren't staying longer and encouraging us to return.

    The whole area is reportedly good for star gazing, so both nights we cast our eyes to the firmament. Most of the time it was too cloudy but later on the second night the haze cleared and Will got a great view. He even got to see a shooting star!
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  • Day807

    Farø Island

    September 11 in Denmark

    Farø is the third Danish island we've visited in as many days and by far the smallest with an area of less than 1km sq. and a population of only 5 people! It is however well connected. The E55 links it via the Farø bridges to both the island of Falster, where we woke up this morning and Zealand, the largest of Denmark's islands and home to its capital city. To the south east, Farø is joined via causeway to a third island, Bogø, which is where we intend to travel tomorrow.

    The day was rainy and windy when we woke and this is the way it stayed. We filled and emptied Martha Motorhome at a transport centre then took the south Farø cable bridge over the Storstrømmen Sound to tiny Farø. With a span of 290m the bridge was longer than the island was wide! It may have been small but our island of choice for the night hosted a good sized parking area where we could see half a dozen other vans and lines of lorries. Vicky wasn't feeling up to exploring so we parked up with a view of the bridge and she snuggled up with her throw, a hot water bottle and a nice big cuppa and that's how we spent the rest of the day.
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  • Day817

    Vrangeskov, Haraldsted Sø

    September 21 in Denmark

    Vicky has officially become a fishing widow. Not even the frequent downpours can keep Will away from Haraldsted Sø, the long lake we are parked near. We've settled ourselves in a forest clearing. The dark green Beech leaves that surround us are shiny from the rain and in constant motion from the strong, gusty winds. A thatched longhouse with a red timber frame, white rendered walls and blue door and window frames sits at the edge of the car park. We believe it is some sort of activity or education centre but it remains empty for the two days are there.

    There are plenty of walks through the forest and a few people have chosen to set up a tent and make camp. We are grateful for our central heating and warm water as the temperature has taken a downward turn.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Region Sjælland, Region Sjaelland, Zealand, Зеландия, Sjælland, Regió de Sjælland, Зеланди, Regiono Sjælland, Región de Selandia, Sjællandi piirkond, Seelandia eskualdea, استان شیلند, Sjællandin alue, Regiuun Sjælland, Seelân, Zeland, Sjælland régió, Զելանդիա տարածաշրջան, Selandia, シェラン地域, ზელანდიის რეგიონი, 셸란 지역, Zelandijos regionas, Зеланд, Wilayah Sjælland, Region Seeland, Seeland, Zelandia, Zelândia, Regiunea Sjælland, Region Zealand, Sjællándda regiuvdna, Сјеланд, Själland, Зеландія, 舍蘭大區, 西兰大区

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