France
Arnéguy

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    • Day 8

      Refuge Orisson

      August 26, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

      Krótki, ale bardzo intensywny odcinek. Przez to, że pamięć w miarę świeża wiedzieliśmy, że jest ciężko, troszkę liczyliśmy, że zapamiętaliśmy źle, ale okazało się, że pamięć mamy dobrą. Zaraz za bramami miasta zaczęła się ściana i pojawiły się pierwsze krople. Natychmiast zaczęła się rozmowa z góra, która milczała, tylko zmieniała nachylenie na bardziej strome. Milczenie nie było gniewne, ale zachęcające do rozmowy tylko niestety był to monolog. Dopiero jak doszliśmy góra pokazała swoje piękno też milcząco. Do dialogu próbowały włączyć się niektóre mięśnie i stawy, najpierw prosząc o zmianę planów potem grożąc, że coś tam zrobią, ale na szczęście całe towarzystwo się w końcu wyciszyło.
      Pogoda wymarzoną do marszu, pochmurno i bez deszczu z lekką mgła. Resztę dnia będziemy się relaksować i podziwiać widoki dopóki nie zacznie lać, i poznawać ciekawych ludzi z różnych zakątków świata...
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    • Day 1-St Jean Pied de Port to Orisson 8k

      August 30, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      I am in Orisson now and what a day it was! It was tough!

      We had to leave our albergue by 8am. It was raining last night and a little this morning. The forecast was for rain, but I decided to not put on my raincoat as it was warm enough and better to get a little wet then sweat inside the rain jacket. After taking pictures at the starting bridge, I was off.

      The scenery did not disappoint. It was absolutely breathtaking even though it was cloudy and misty sometimes. It just made everything all the more green. I took over 125 pictures and videos, and it will be really hard to narrow them down to a 2 minute video and 20 photos but I will try.

      It was a really tough climb. It was 8 km and a 700m increase in elevation. It was quite steep. I kept saying over and over to myself, how did I do 25km in one day last time. I am barely going to make the 8km. This is how: 1) I was 14 years younger, 2) I weighed 20 pounds less and was much more regularly active and 3) I was trying to impress this amazing man with me which I was in love with!

      Tomorrow’s climb is another 700m rise but that is over 12km so not as steep. But, it has the added challenge of going down for 5km before I get to my bed.

      I was taking the walk very slow today. I started to have thoughts about Jörg at times. Some were wonderful memories but at the same time I had the one thought that plagues my mind consistently and that is that he should be here. But today the thoughts went further. I thought, “He could be here DAMN IT.”

      This may be hard to hear for some about the details of Jörg’s cancer diagnosis so skip this paragraph if you don’t want to read it. Jörg and I never talked about his cancer diagnosis very often (his choice) but we both understood that he left it too long to get tested. He told me a couple times to make sure I get myself checked regularly for breast cancer with a specific sadness in his tone. As you know, Jörg was a very fit athletic man whose resting heart rate was in the 40s. He started to have problems urinating but kept buying over the counter herbal stuff to help. It would help for a bit but then stop working. I finally convinced him to go to the doctor but he was only going as he had a mole he wanted removed and would tell the doctor this problem as well. He hadn’t been to the doctor in at least 6 years before that. Joerg’s PSA was over 100 when he was tested and was diagnosed with stage 4 prostate cancer, already spread to his bones all over his body. Prostate cancer is one of these cancers that usually men can live with if caught early, in fact, many are cured. Jörg’s father and grandfather both had it and lived to 80. To test for it is a simple PSA blood test. The reason I am telling these details is so that if you are a man, or if there is a man in your life you love with all your heart, please please please make sure he gets tested regularly! We may never know if Jörg could have lived to 80 like he hoped as his cancer was a very aggressive form, but I believe getting tested earlier would have given us a fighting chance. I must clarify something very important though, I in no way blame Jörg for this outcome. He sincerely believed that he didn’t need to worry about his prostate until later and did not have any concerns. No one is to blame.

      Once I checked in, I showered and had lunch. I then read my guide about today and tomorrow’s walk.

      We had a community dinner again where we had to stand up and introduce ourselves and this time I kept it brief said I was doing the Camino in the memory of my husband. A lot more strangers in the room so didn’t want to share. I feel like I can’t tell a different reason as I would be lying but I also don’t want to draw attention to myself for this reason.

      Well, off to bed early again. 8:30pm and in bed.

      TTYL
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    • Day 5

      Orisson

      September 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Orisson is the first stop after St Jean. We left at 7 am and hiked 8km and 800 mètres of elevation through the Pyrenees. It’s getting hot but the breeze is nice as we get higher. We have met up with some of our Camino family here. Nice to see them again
      16k to go before we stop for the night.
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    • Day 11

      St Jean Pied de Paul to Roncesvalles

      September 14, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      So today was our first day actually walking the Camino.
      26 km with a climb of 1400 meters. It was tough hot and amazing! Easy to say that when we now have had a couple of hours to rest in our quaint hotel with a rose and beer under our belts! We were up at 6am and breakfast at 630 consisting of a baguette jam and a coffee. Hard case proprietor who thought we all crazy and wished us luck as he crossed himself!
      It was dark and cool when we we set off and was a steady and steep climb. But in the words of our Jack you just have to walk at your own medium pace! You just climb into the mist with the noise of cow bells and sheep bells and the odd horse! It reminded me of the land around Wanaka where they filmed Lord of the Rings. The border between France and Spain that we walked through is signified by a cattlestop and an overflowing rubbish bin!
      Onward we slogged meeting all sorts of interesting walkers, a whole contingent of Irish from Galway, a lovely Sth Korean man who wanted a photo of Brian and self! An American couple who now live in Equador in a fishing village and a hard case Welshman who was worried he wouldn't get a beer at the monastery he was staying in! Lots of baby boomers walking and although we got in at 3 pm some were still walking in at 6pm! Beautiful day here and off soon for a pilgrim dinner. So so pleased we have the first day under our belt and in the words of Ed we knocked the bastard off! Buen Camino
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    • Day 2

      Here we go!

      September 27, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

      This trip is monumental for many reasons. It caps off thirty years of work, quota and month end stress.
      So grateful to have Masino by my side, as she has been for 20 years, through the ups and downs of this crazy career we chose. We were fortunate enough to have been able to execute our severance before we left for the trail. (I signed mine at the airport.) So excited for this journey and what is in store for us next.

      Also - I’ve out drank Masino every night!
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    • Day 5

      For Whom The Bell Tolls

      September 16, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      This morning I woke to the sound of the bells tolling. It's a beautiful deep bell that reverberates through the valley. My bedroom window looks out towards the citadel which glowed in the dark through the night and feels very ancient.

      Today the bell tolls for my brother Cameron, who left us now six years ago. Cam would have loved a Camino and been the life of the trail. He was born a wise pilgrim. Miss you Cam and will carry you in my heart to Santiago.

      For Whom the Bell Tolls is a novel by Hemingway, written about Spain. Hemingway loved Pamplona, which is where I'm headed, on the other side of the Pyrenees.

      I wandered around town in the morning drizzle preparing for Day 1 of my Camino. The steep climb up the Pyrenees and down the other side seems to be the most talked about stage of the whole Camino and I've been completely unsure about my ability to do it. Most people break this day into two but with limited accommodation in the mountains I chose to try the walk up the hill then bus back to St Jean for another night.

      After finding out that you can't buy supplies until the shops open at ten, and dumping my pack for the day, I headed off with a rain coat, a jammon baguette and only the occasional drop of rain. I met Texas Jack early on at the first steep hill and we chatted for a while. He's got sixty days to do the trail just like me and also like me, he doesn't know his limits. He had his pack and I was probably at least ten years younger than him so I passed him by (that's right Darryn Crook, I've already passed someone and on a hill) but I think we'll meet again.

      A bit further along a pelegrin (Pilgrim in French) caught up to me and we walked a couple of kilometres together. His Camino name was Manolo, but he is South Korean. This is his sixth Camino Frances, his second this year. He is already my wise Camino sage and he taught me quite a lot in our two kilometres. After walking with him he said that I was walking the right pace and doing fine up the hills and could make it to Santiago no problems. New best friend.

      I climbed the next big hill to Huntto a little slower than Manolo but met him at the rest stop along with a gaggle of other pilgrims that I may meet again. I cancelled my bus down the hill, walked a little higher, then turned around and walked back to town. I was about 2km and an hour or so from the place everyone stays night 1. That two km is the steepest on the Camino. I know now I could have made it there. The five kilometres I did do was much easier than in my head.

      It was a beautiful day. The weather was perfect with warm refreshing rain just a little, but not enough to put my raincoat back on. I saw the mountains in the rain and mist and sunshine, heard the cow bells tinkle, saw views for miles my pictures can't capture, met friendly people from all over planet earth, and generally feel content and at peace.

      This is absolutely the place I need to be right now.

      "That is what we are supposed to do when we are at our best — make it all up — but make it up so truly that later it will happen that way" Hemingway
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    • Day 3

      Stone for Veronica

      May 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      A few weeks back I walked from Dad's to Musselburgh where my Mum was from. I picked up a wee heart shaped stone down at the River Esk and brought it with me. I left it at the statue up the Pyrenees today.Read more

    • Day 6

      Day 2: La Vierge to Roncesvalles, part 1

      May 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

      Miles: 8.5
      Elevation gain: 1,660 feet
      Elevation loss: 2,110 feet
      Weather: cold and windy at the top

      Today started, as the French woman next to me on the shuttle said, with us “walking into the clouds.” I was glad/grateful many times today, most often that it wasn’t raining or snowing. That said, this Oklahoman was pretty cold, especially at the top; with the wind, the relief was exquisite when the trail went low enough or in the lee of one of the mountains.

      Speaking of the shuttle, the driver started the car, and the first thing on the stereo was the opening was the first movement of Beethoven 9. That’s a little heavy, right?

      Anyway, up into the fog. The trail switched from the asphalt road to dirt trails fairly early on, and periods of flatness/slight descent were most welcome. I crossed the border into Spain without fanfare, and then climbed some more. I was very happy to reach the top, Col Lepoeder!

      1. Into the clouds!
      2. Lots of sheep. Apparently raised for the milk and cheese. Carry on!
      3. The beginning of the dirt trail was particularly steep.
      4. Welcome brief descent into the forest.
      5. The France-Spain border. That was it. No wall!
      6. The best lunch so far. I picked up a sandwich in Saint Jean. Crusty bread, cheese, and some sort of cherry jam. Perfect!
      7. Looking back over the Pyrenees
      8. Huge black slugs on the side of the road. They reminded me of alligators sunning themselves on the side of a trail in the Everglades.
      8. The top!
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    • Day 5

      And Over the Pyrenees!

      September 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

      Today we continued up and over the Pyrenees and into Spain. Allegedly only 11 km but my fitbit says 11 miles. Could have been the path we took down the final descent…I think it was a longcut rather than a shortcut but so pretty! We were walking with our new friend Linda and there was a fork in the trail. We chose left. About 1/4 down a big rocky hillside we started to figure out that the trail we were on was the one that the nice man in the pilgrims office said NOT to take because it’s steep and dangerous. Oops! It was steep but not nearly as gnarly as about half the trails in our national parks. Plus it went through a beautiful forest!

      Here the people put bells on the collars of all their grazing animals. The sheep have little bells that sound delicate and beautiful and the cows and horses have big bells, about the size of those cans we used to buy tomato juice in back in the day!

      We’re in a tiny village called Roncesvalles with a population of 21! It’s the site of an old monastery that was built in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries as a layover for monks making the pilgrimage to Santiago. Apparently too many monks were dying as they tried to go the 40 something km from St-Jean, over the Pyrenees, and to Zubiri, so the church established the town and monastery here. As the monks departed after a night’s rest and a meal, they were given a care package that included essentials such as a bottle of beer, a bottle of wine…and some other stuff.

      David’s doing better with getting into a routine. What a relief! He still has trouble with knowing where we are and remembering where our things are but at least now he seems a bit more settled. (On our first day of this trip he lost his green beanie and his ATM card, but then he let me carry out passports and money). A big relief for me! I’m so glad we can make this trip together!
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    • Day 2

      Stage 2: Orisson to Roncesvalles

      September 14, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      Yesterday kicked my butt. So did today for different reasons but we'll get to that later. Eleven miles and I don't even want to know the elevation gain, up and over Col Lepoeder pass 1432 m, the Napoleon route over the Pyrenees into Spain. Hardest part was standing in line for an hour to check in when I got there, was about to keel over. But after getting out of the boots, showering and handing my reeking sweat drenched clothing over to volunteers who washed and dried it (tears of joy!) I revived enough to enjoy the communal pilgrim dinner. Everything ached though, had to take naproxen so I could fall asleep. Had 3 German bunkmates in my cubicle who were so chill and packed so minimally I was in awe. After the amazing restorative power of sleep, was actually able to get up, put the boots back on, shoulder the pack and head out again by 0800 after breakfast. Onward to Zubiri.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arnéguy, Arneguy, Arnegi, Арнегюи, 64220, Арнеги, Арнегюї, 阿尔内吉

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