Schnee in den Pyrenäen
4月19日, フランス ⋅ ☀️ 7 °CDie Fahrt über die mautfreie AP 7 bei sonnigem Wetter verläuft problemlos. Wir übernachten nochmals in Spanien auf dem kostenfreien Stellplatz in Girona. Der Platz ist schon gut gefüllt als wirもっと詳しく
Die Fahrt über die mautfreie AP 7 bei sonnigem Wetter verläuft problemlos. Wir übernachten nochmals in Spanien auf dem kostenfreien Stellplatz in Girona. Der Platz ist schon gut gefüllt als wir nachmittags ankommen.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/G4cDHyRL5LWYQh9AA?g_st=ic
Ist eigentlich klar bei der spannenden Stadt, die fußläufig durch einen Park in 2 Kilometern zu erreichen ist. Auch wir lassen uns durch die Altstadtgassen treiben und machen das obligatorische Foto auf die Häuser die sich im Fluss spiegeln.
Die Strecke über die A 75 durch Frankreichs Berge ermöglicht bei toller Fernsicht traumhafte Blicke in die schneebedeckten Pyrenäen. Überall blüht der Ginster, es ist bunt auf den Wiesen.
Dieses Mal nutzen wir wieder das französische System Pass’Étapes, „Camping-Car Park“. 12 Euro kostet der Platz. Er beinhaltet Strom, Ver-Entsorgung und freies Wifi. Wir schlafen super ruhig in dem Dorf Canourgue, das von der Autobahn aus in wenigen Kilometern erreicht wird.
Wir machen in der untergehenden Sonne einen Spaziergang durch den alten Ort, der wegen seiner vielen Känäle auch „Klein- Venedig“ genannt wird.
https://maps.app.goo.gl/RmVrcsMnsjqSpZfh7?g_st=ic
Heute Morgen zeigt das Thermometer 5 Grad an. Die Sonne scheint aber noch.
Tja, die Wintersachen müssen wohl wieder aus den hinteren Schrankregionen nach vorne geräumt werden. 🥲もっと詳しく
Very upmarket buffet, and then David, the joint-manager (with his brother- the family has run the hotel since 1928) took it upon himself to solve the luggage issue. He rang the same people on the same number, but was not taking no for an answer, and decided the solution was for the case to go to the Post office ( if it wasn't there) and for La Malle Postale to pick it up (likely tomorrow) and take it to our hotel for tomorrow. Lots of animated phone calls later he assured us it would be done, and sent us off. We were hoping but not convinced.
Today was along day - 27km officially, but 30km or so as both hotels were away from the town centres. It was drizzling as we left in the new ponchos (which worked well) and Saint Craig of Kiama had lent me a pair of waterproof over-trousers which he said were too big for him (he of umbrella yesterday). They probably were too big, as they were big for me. They were a godsend.
The country was grey because of the clouds, but everywhere were long, low stone walls, green fields, or paddocks with daffodils, and small woods. Most of the track was a walkway between paddocks, but we were on rural roads now and then. That was better than the boggy sections: they were horrendous after just a little rain, so I can only imagine WWI.
Unfortunately the sleet and rain began in earnest around 1015, and kept on until around 2pm, along with a gale. I doubt my chinos would have survived the mud, or have dried out by dinner. We were warm enough under the ponchos, but fingers number quickly, and stayed numb until the wind stopped, or the rare burst of sun. Having said that, it wasn’t too bad with the ponchos and waterproof boots: we could walk along quickly without getting hot.
We went through a few hamlets, but no villages or towns, but made good time because it was too windy , wet and cold to stop except inside, and the few little cafes we saw were crowded, or in the open. We saw a man with a Phileas Fogg type contraption harvesting daffodils in the driving sleet... unsuccessfully, though, as he seemed to spend as much time under the machine as on it. Maybe he was sheltering?
Nasbinals is a lovely old village with grey/fawn coloured stone houses, all with rooves made of flat rocks.
Dinner was in the town rather than the hotel, and the same local specialties that Rosie and Amr had nearly 10 yrs ago - very good. Aligot (mashed potato plus cheese and garlic - consistency of play-dough) was a sight to behold, and very tasty.
Just before we went we had an email from David, the Aumont-Aubrac manager, with a small glitch: the bag was delivered to the Le Puy post so late that it could not be collected today, and the Post is closed all weekend (plus perhaps Monday as a public holiday) so it will not be collected by la Malle Postale until Tuesday, and hopefully early enough then for it to be delivered to us where we will be that night - a town called Golinac. Four more days of only one pair of pants and shoes instead of one day more...but a timeline that ought to be achievable.
Hotel is a branch of a family hotel business. 1. Opened at 4... but if you knew your room number you could take your key and go in anyway. 2. Wifi, soap, but no tea or coffee. 3 Great view over open fields 4. bed seems okay
41,520 steps, 32.6km and 44 flights.もっと詳しく
We did not wake up until around 6;45 - probably physically and otherwise worn out - but breakfast was not until 7;30 and Thomas had said he would call the Parcel People at 8am, which is the deadline for dropping off luggage. We packed our one bag, which is unzipped to its fullest to take everything we don't want to carry each day, and went to breakfast with it. Air France is a disaster, but there is a service - La Malle Postale - that collects bags from hotels in the mornings and delivers them in the afternoons, and seems to be as good as Nico's proverbial Mongolian Yam. So far for us it has been faultless.
The good Thomas went into action when there was a lull in checkouts. After much calling and waiting, he told us that it appears that Air France gave our bag to its agent, who gave it to the local postal service, who tried to deliver it (allegedly) yesterday afternoon to the hotel in Le Puy, and who can or will do no more than try to deliver it to the same place today. The local post is probably linked genetically to Air France, so I am not confident that anything they say about the past, present or future is true, but pilgrims can't be choosers. The deal (as at 1600 on Thursday 25 April ) is that the bag is delivered to the hotel, and then picked up tomorrow morning and delivered to our hotel for tomorrow, as arranged with the tour operator, for 45 Euro... which seems good value for everything involved. The only catch is the postal service...and it is very French...
UPDATE 8pm. Stupid us. Of course they did not deliver the bag. No excuses, no explanations. They simply lied this morning. The receptionist here rang for us and the latest "information" (being French, the "dis" is silent) is that they will deliver it tomorrow, but they will not say when, nor where it is, in case we wanted to pick it up - only that there is only one point in the world it can go to, which is the hotel to which they would not take it. It's Anzac Day. Is this what those people fought for? Am I bitter, twisted and frustrated? Yep.
Anyway, we started off around 9am today and it was cold and threatening. We had spray jackets on (and also had an umbrella and some cycling sleeves for warmth, courtesy of a sympathetic Australian couple at the hotel), but there was no rain or snow to speak of all day. Through a forest, down to a small town, then farming land and trails through woods, and the occasional small hamlet or farmhouse. The people in the farmhouses must be heartily sick of tourists walking right past their windows and doors for 9 months of the year. We went through only one or two villages/ hamlets on the way, but one (Saint-Alban-sur-Limagnole) had a war memorial and a cannon, which seemed right for Anzac Day. The town also had a small, old, deserted chateau, which looked cold and empty, and the smelliest WC in Europe.
We reached Aumont-Aubrac around 245. It is a small town/large village, but very pretty. The hotel is modern, but c 700m from the centre. We have not yet decided whether to have dinner here or in town... an extra walk, but we choose our own time.
Went for a walk into town at 5pm. Found a store with rain ponchos and warm gear, and a very honest owner ("don't buy that-doesn't work"). A 12th c church, narrow streets with the occasional massive delivery 26 wheeler truck, Anne found a boulangerie etc
Chez Camillou Hotel (Logis chain) does well. 1 It was open before 3pm and has soap, wifi, coffee and tea and a good bed. It is quite new/modern.
2. very helpful receptionist who called for us trying to get an answer from the Air France baggage black hole.
36,721 steps, 28.8km and 63 flights.もっと詳しく
旅行者 Everything crossed for bag delivery tomorrow..? to Nasbinals? We love the Logis hotels, and their restaurants are usually exceptionally good.
旅行者 By day seven the blog has become a harangue about how much dad hates France and Frenchmen, concluding with a dozen grudging photos of beautiful countryside and pretty towns. I can feel your frustration from Queensland. The issue with France is the French, etc
旅行者 Reminds me of a story about a French saint, Teresa of Avila, who was bucked off a horse in driving rain in winter. As she scraped the mud off her habit, she cried, “God! Why do this now?” In prayer she heard the reply, “This is how I treat all My friends.” As Teresa clambered back onto her horse, she muttered, “I see now why You have so few friends.” God’s obviously taken a liking to you after discovering you were pilgrims. Perhaps the whole debacle is the working of a greater kindness, trying to corner you so that you give in a little, and receive the pilgrims’ grace. I’m sure there have been a million souls wandering along your path dealing with some seriously big spiritual troubles over the years. Welcome to the club, I suppose. You look very bright in your new windcheaters
And today was even colder still, but no snow. I think all of southern France is chilly right now, but we were up a bit higher (1320m) and there was a wind.
Left our great hotel in Saugues around 8:30, along with many others, but within 30 mins we were wandering at our own pace and only occasionally passed other people. Already we recognised quite a few of them. Steady uphill through big farms (since there were few farmhouses of hamlets) then a forest, where the track was covered in snow. After that it was downhill (slowly) mostly in woods, and a side-trip to tonight's hotel. It is a hotel/gite in a hamlet with no other businesses, and i assume it is used becasue it is 27kms from Saugues, whereas the next bigger town is another 7km, and 34 kms might be a stretch with the hills.
We waited in the cold for the 3pm opening, talking with another Australian couple who are also here tonight. It was very cold once we stopped walking.Then someone opened a window and said we could wait upstairs in a warmer kitchen area, and we did...until 4pm, not 3pm.
I wiled away the time calling Air France and getting nowhere, although on the 4th call someone said the bag was out for delivery, but returned because the hotel they went to did not know who we were. Sounded fake to me, as all three hotels would remember.
There are 6 Australians here, plus at least 5 Americans, and a French couple with the dog as seen in the old chapel yesterday. Plus a few other French walkers, I think.
L’Oustal de Parent Hotel: 1 Biggish and modern, in the middle of fields2. Open at 4pm. 3. Thomas the helpful manager who may yet solve AF. 4 Warm room and great bed. 5 Aust couple lending us an umbrella and cycling sleeves 6 Finding the dog pilgrim and giving his parents their photo 7 Dinner excellent and tables served ( rather than people) so very quick. 8 no wifi in room
36,541 steps/ 29.6km and 86 flightsもっと詳しく
That was even colder!
We left around the same time and had only 20km to go, but a few downs, then big ups and big downs; 886m high to 967, down to 606, up to 1090 and down to 963. Seriously, why not just put a relatively flat tunnel through?
It did not rain at all, but it did snow on and off, and there was a freezing gale on the exposed sections. We missed a few panoramas, I expect, but the small amount of snow did make everything look festive, and there was no mud on the coldest bits. We also passed an amazing rock formation that literally bulged out over the road and had stainless steel anchor bolts for free-climbers. No-one climbing, but scary to imagine. it was shortly aver we crossed the Eiffel Bridge - an iron bridge designed by the man who went vertical as well.
We arrived in Saugues around 2:15 again, found the (very good) hotel on the main street, and asked about the bag perhaps being delivered. The Thai manageress became quite teary at the idea of being outside without proper cold-weather gear and wanted to know all the details. When we went out to buy gloves and a beanie (Saugues is just big enough to have shops other than the bakery and garage) she was on the phone to Air France and its baggage agent for us, but I expect she will get the same programmed apologies and complete washing of hands plus disinterest. Air France is more appalling every day...
To help us remember things, I will add the memorable things about each hotel as we go. Today's (for Hotel la Terrasse, Saugues) are 1. Thai manageress tearing up and attacking Air France 2. Big, quiet room with view over Main Street. 3 Wonderful dinner - mushroom soup, salmon penne (+truffle) and pear tart. The chef is the Thai manageress. There is a Michelin sign outside....4 Fantastic bed - big, right hardness. 5 Slept like logs until an equipment serviceman from Oz called at 4:37am
30,450 steps, 24.0km (perhaps we had a few side trips, and I put the phone in a pocket on the backpack shoulder-strap , but it seems too high...) and 135 flightsもっと詳しく
旅行者 Pretty shitty getting the cold weather on the days you don’t have cold weather gear. Very impressed you carried on anyway, though knowing the pair of you I’m not very surprised. The pilgrims would be proud. And just think of how pleasant it will be next Tuesday when the sun comes out and you thaw! I’m sure the chocolat chauds taste even sweeter at night for your earning them. Will avoid Air France
旅行者 Thx. Not sure where the hot chocolate focus is from. We are yet to see them at night, and fast and simple tea or coffee would be perfect if there were a comfortable stop. Pilgrims can't be choosers. As they sing in chapel," ...come wind, come weather; There’s no discouragement Shall make him once relent His first avowed intent To drink his coffee"
Von Balaruc fuhren wir in Richtung Cevennen. Unser erstes Ziel war die Brücke Pont du Diable, die bei Saint Jean de Fos den Hérault überquert. Die Brücke diente seit dem 11ten Jahrhundert Händlern aus dem Süden in den Norden und umgekehrt und den Jacobspilgern auf der Via domitia nach Santiago.
Weiter ging es dann zur Plus beau Village St. Guilhalm de Dessert mit seinem im 8ten Jahrhundert erbauten Kloster mit Kirche. Nach dem Besuch der Abbaye de Gellone weilten wir etwas bei einem Ricard auf der Place de la Liberté bevor wir das Ticket wegen falschen Parkens von der Windschutzscheibe entfernten.
Und weiter ging es durch die Cevennen auf Departementsstraßen, auf denen kaum zwei Fahrzeuge aneinander vorbei kommen, durch Kurven über Kurven, durch tiefe Schluchten und Wälder, kurz gesagt, durch eine abenteuerliche Landschaft.
Da wir nicht Recht voran kamen und unser Ziel Langogne nur sehr spät und in vollster Dunkelheit erreichen konnten, machten wir in Villefort am Fuße des Mont Lozère und neben dem Lac de Villefort auf einem Campingplatz schon im Dunkeln halt und belegten einfach mal einen Platz. Das Tor war jedenfalls auf, aber im Internet haben wir dann gelesen, dass der Platz erst am 1. April öffnet.
Schaun ma mal.もっと詳しく
We were very excited about our morning activity today. We were off to Laguiole to see the Laguiole Knife Museum, to learn about their history and see these most beautiful knives being made. Unfortunately, due to COVID, they have lost most of the staff who speak English, so the guy who gave us the history talk couldn’t parler Anglais. The solution was to have myself and Ian, with some help from Mary, interpret! (Ed - Danielle did a fantastic job.) There were a couple of moments where things got lost in translation, but overall I think it was a great team effort. The most amusing part was when he was explaining the use of the “spike”, the third element added to the knives. It was developed to punch cows in the stomach to relieve gas pressure if they had eaten too much green grass. He also seemed to be suggesting a similar use if people had eaten too much. But, in the end we realised it was to punch an extra hole in the belt.
After the history and a demonstration of how the knives are made, polished etc, and a walk through their museum, we were let loose in the shop. There were so many options, it was quite overwhelming, but we all made a purchase.
After our close encounter with knives, we hit the road and travelled to Buron de Camejane, a typical dairy farm from the Aubrac region to see Aligot being made and then having it for lunch with a grilled beef saucisson. This dish comprises, potato, Tome and Fourme cheese, butter, cream and S & P. (Ed - more or less a heart attack on a plate.) It was delicious, but virtually impossible to finish. We had a rum punch to start and wine was also available. For the meal we had charcuterie for entree, a cheese course after the Aligot main, and the best blueberry pie I have ever had for dessert. Everything was delicious and I think we will need to walk some way to burn off the Aligot.
As the weather was quite bad (cold, wet and windy), especially as we were on an escarpment 1,300 metres above sea level, we reviewed the schedule and, instead of walking from Aubrac to Les Cambrassats (which was over 10km), we did a much shorter 3 km walk finishing in the delightful town of Saint Côme d’Olt. Fortunately we had good weather for our walk. We walked around the town and picked up some supplies before arriving at our accommodation for the evening, a Covent that has been converted into a simple hotel. The rooms were basic, but clean and comfortable and we were served meals ‘cafeteria style’. It was a nice experience and the nuns were lovely (not like the horrible nuns I had at school).もっと詳しく
Durch endlosen Regen geht es über die endlose (bei gutem Wetter bestimmt noch viel schönere) Hochebene weiter in den mittelalterlich wirkenden Ort Aubrac. Hier erwartet mich die nächste Überraschung: meine Herberge für heute Nacht ist in einem richtigen Turm untergebracht!もっと詳しく
旅行者 Tolle Fotos, alles schaut super toll aus, wie du sagst, beim schönen Wetter wahrscheinlich noch viel schöner – aber wer würde an dieser Stelle Hitze brauchen, vielleicht ist so gesehen der Regen doch viel besser… Zumindest denke ich immer so bei meinen verregneten Marathons... 😊
旅行者 Ich werde für die Rückkehr der Sonne singen, die alle Pilger begleitet. Konzert heute Abend und morgen : Spohr - "Die lezten Dinge" mit grossem Orchester. Grosse Küsse super 👍 Sophie.
Natürlich bleibe ich auch heute nicht verschont und es beginnt bald wieder zu regnen. So erreiche ich, neugierige Kühe und endlose, gatschige Wege passierend, gegen Mittag den Ort Nasbinals. Hier gibt es wieder einmal die letzte Einkaufsmöglichkeit bis morgen, also stocke ich noch für das Abendessen auf.もっと詳しく
Nach dem wieder äußerst französischen Frühstück - ohne Teller und mit Kaffee aus dem Schüsserl, wo die echten Franzosen ihr Baguette eintauchen - mache ich mich alleine auf den Weg. Magdalena und Benedikt haben heute in einer anderen Gîte übernachtet, weil in meiner kein Platz mehr war, außerdem hat Benedikt heute seinen letzten Tag, bevor er aufhört Magdalena zu begleiten und nach Hause fahren muss, also haben die beiden sicher gerne noch etwas Zeit für sich.
Es hört genau rechtzeitig auf zu regnen, aber natürlich ist trotzdem alles nass, kalt und dunstig. Trotzdem ist die weite Hochebene des Parc naturel régional de l'Aubrac, über die ich mich bewege, umwerfend schön. Sie erinnert eher an die schottischen Highlands. Auch das Wetter passt dazu.もっと詳しく
旅行者 I love the French way of dipping pieces of torn baguette into a bowl of coffee.
この場所は、次の名前で知っているかもしれません:
Arrondissement de Mende