Bouches-du-Rhône

We are having such a busy but relaxed day. It is cool surprisingly, as it was hot when we arrived yesterday, and we bundled up jackets and thought we wouldn’t be using them till we returned! But today is cool and windy and temperature staying below 20°, so I love it. Occasionally the wind blows a cloud and 2 drops of water fall (you couldn’t call it rain) and then it blows away…mostly clear blue sky and sunny…a wonderful light!

We set off leisurely after breakfast at a little cafe, and went to the tourist office to get a ticket to see the sights…good value - one voucher for 4 monuments and one museum! Anyway, we started with the cloisters of the enormous St Trophime church…cloisters always lovely and these were good ones. Next we went on to the Roman Theatre. This is actually an amphitheatre and very impressive, with lots of columns and fallen rubble as well…but it is not to be confused with l’Amphitheatre (les arènes) which is the enormous coliseum-like structure! We have yet to have an official visit to this one.

After the Theatre, Amr thought we should work out the walking route and find where we walk out on Thursday…always a good idea, especially at the beginning of a walk. The map showed some camino signs along a route, and GR signs, so we started looking and did work out the route, but there is never great signage in towns, we did see a few, and we were happy to work out the start. It begins with crossing the Rhône, which at this stage is huge.

Then, walking back and along the river a bit, we came across another site we wanted to visit, the baths of Constantin…more Roman building…this city is like walking back in time, the slightly crumbling buildings, narrow streets - the only vehicles that venture in this part seem to be delivery vans, and they take up the whole width. The nice thing is that while it obviously attracts many tourists, it is a working town with real people, not just geared for tourism.

We also popped into the Musée Réattu which was interesting… Réattu did neoclassical paintings and it has other varied more modern works…just a quiet interlude. Then we had lunch…saw a Spanish place that had tapas and was just what we felt like, small plates so we can be hungry for dinner (where we have already decided on!)…that was great..chick peas, octopus, chiperones, until Amr had to fight paying the bill…luckily Amr is on the ball, and when he said a large amount Amr queried and asked for itemised bill and he then said he thought we were a different table…a bit sus…and then had to have cash as the machine wasn’t working!!! Reminded us of Sicily! In the end, I think he charged too little in the confusion…serves him right!

…Well, now back from dinner. After the last write up we met and went into the Amphitheatre …it is big and has metal work that at first we thought was scaffolding, but realised now it is seating, as the arena is used for bull fighting, and also concerts in the summer. Walking around in it is rather similar to the Coliseum, and there are fabulous views from the towers (that were added in the Middle Ages).

Then Amr decided it would be good to visit Avignon tomorrow seeing we have conquered Arles, and it is a 17 minute train ride. So with that in mind he made a pilgrimage to the laundromat he had already sussed out and we are clean! (It had been planned for tomorrow, the last day). Now we are back from a really nice dinner. We had chosen 2 places for these 2 nights, and the first one was full so we booked for tomorrow, and went to the other - lovely food - Amr had the daily plat which was a chicken sausage thing with delicious sauce, and I had a cod risotto with amazing sauce and lots of vegetables through it, and a great local wine. They have wine in 500 ml bottles which is so perfect for us!

There is another tragedy that I must report, and Peter and Simon if you read this will sympathise…Amr can’t find his hat…it is a beautiful Borsalino and we know it was in the train, so not left in Paris, but since then a blank…maybe he took it off in the church we visited yesterday, or maybe on the train….so upsetting, and he needs it for walking too..he says he’ll just use sunscreen, but I know he is mourning… Good night.Read more