Département des Landes

Our first day on the Baztan was full of surprises, not all of them good. But I can say that, despite the odds, our day ended well. It was a day we won’t forget in a hurry.

We left the Refuge de Saint Jacques at 7.30 in light rain, after a good night’s sleep (yes even in a dormitory) and a typical French breakfast - cafe, pain et confiture. We were the first to leave the gite, thanked our kind hospitaleros Jean-Pierre and Claire and wished our fellow pilgrims, heading for other routes, un bon chemin. Apart from the weather, we were expecting an easy first day in the valley before the climbing that is to come.

We had about 24 kms to walk with the halfway point being Ustaritz. For the first 12 kms alongside the River Nive we had dark grey clouds threatening and intermittent blue skies toying with us. We were happy to have our walking umbrellas. We made it to Ustaritz, bought a sandwich from a supermarket and found a ‘tranquille’ spot, beside the cemetery! The rain largely abated and we had just 12 kms to walk to Espelette. What could possibly go wrong?

About an hour after Ustaritz, and with just 7 or 8 kms to go, the path led further down into the valley and was suddenly impossibly impassable! See photo and video. After various attempts at ‘walkarounds’ we accepted that we had to retrace a few kms and find another way. This we did, but two hours later we found ourselves in the same situation but even further from our destination. Once again we had no choice but to retrace our steps. We knew by now we were many more hours walk from Espelette, even if walking on the road.

I can say that after many Caminos, and more than a few challenges, we’ve never felt quite so (almost) defeated. As we made our way back up the forest path towards the road a young woman appeared. We said bonjour and, without hesitation, Domi told her of our predicament and asked if she had a car nearby. She did. We would be happy to pay her if she could drive us to Espelette. She said she’d be happy to drive us and did not want any payment. She was kind and delightful. 🙏

During our rescue journey we learned that our Camino Angel’s name is Maia and that she is expecting her first baby. She told us about the very heavy rains of the previous week which resulted in that section of the Baztan Valley being impassable. She assured us that there was no path that would take us around the flooded area. Somehow it made us feel better to know that. We were in the car with Maia for nearly half an hour which - albeit on narrow winding roads - gives some indication of how long it may have taken us to walk.

And all of a sudden we were in Espelette. Maia didn’t want a photo taken but took one of us alongside the ‘rescue vehicle’. Despite her protests we insisted that she please accept our offer - if not for herself then to buy something for the baby with the gratitude and good wishes of the Australian and The French. ❤️

There were a few times today when we wondered if we would make it to Espelette. Well, we are very happily settled into our room at Hotel Euzkadi and have just returned from a sumptuous dinner in their restaurant. Now … we can look back on today as ‘un grand aventuré.

And we have what we think is a good plan for our next two stages. Until then. 😎Läs mer