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Backpacking 2022
  • JJ Weeks
  • Thomas Stone
July 2022

Backpacking 2022

A 26-day public-transport-crazed backpacking tour of Central/Eastern Europe: the Tatras to the Balkans Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 5, 2022
    Backpacking 2022
    🐝

    Bournemouth Airport

    July 5, 2022 in England ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    [JJ] Thomas water bottle count: 4
    JJ water bottle count: 0

    Thomas can't get any water in one of them though soo who's actually winning? Let's get this adventure underway

  • Backpacking 2022
    Well that's not awkward...
    Thomas being Thomas. Mini cheddars, Bosnia hat, toalety breaks and BBC sportFind Thomas' houseCløudPoland's field are so stripey. Collectivisation just pass you by or something?

    Kraków Airport

    July 5, 2022 in Poland ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    [Thomas] Made it here in a Krakow a whip, and already had a minor crisis as we (JJ) dropped our bus ticket and the binman swept it up, so we had to very kindly ask for it back! 😂

  • Backpacking 2022
    Memorial at Auschwitz-Birkenau IIBirkenauThe Infamous Entry SignRuins of a gas chamber

    Auschwitz-Birkenau

    July 6, 2022 in Poland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    [JJ] A very sobering experience. No words are able to truly describe what went on here.

    We saw corridors upon corridors of prisoners' belongings taken from them: kids' shoes, spectacles, cooking pots, even human hair. We walked through the gas chambers, we saw the giant Auschwitz camp, then Birkenau, which was 25 times larger than even that.

    I walked a million steps last month, and if every step were a person dying then it still wouldn't be as many people that died within these fences.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    St Florian's Gate, a 14th century gate in the fortifying walls to the old town
    🐲🐉Smok Walewski: a fire breathing dragon statue symbolising city legendSt Mary's Basilica1Somewhere near Rynek Glowny, the medieval town squareThe view from Baszta SandomierskaEmerging into Krakow's main squareTomasza Stoneski

    Kraków

    July 6, 2022 in Poland ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    [JJ 05/07] Our first footsteps in Krakow took us from a tram station to the old town, one of the first ever selected UNESCO world heritage sites, with pretty pedestrianised streets inside the old city walls and surrounded by a cool circular park aptly named 'planty'. We found our hostel: Greg & Tom hostel and immediately tucked into some dinner on the romantic little balcony, narrowly avoiding a barrage of rain.

    After I had a short passport misplacing scare, we then went on a voyage to the local Carrefour and enjoyed the wonders of the Polish language, which is reminiscent of if you've ever smashed your head onto a keyboard. We were first tickled by 'Chleb', Polish for bread, before rediscovering the holy grail of confectionery treats: Plopps! Or at least their Polish cousins with debateably an even better name: BUM boomki! Listen to that sweet pop 😩

    We ended the night by making some Chlebwiches for our trip to Auschwitz tomorrow

    [Thomas 06/07] Free breakfast ✅ Quick dash to bus stop ✅ Bus caught ✅

    After getting back from Auschwitz, we explored Wawel Castle, saw a real-life fire breathing dragon, climbed a tower, walked up and down the main Street many, many times, explored the Jewish Quarter and delighted Thomas by riding on a tram.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Giant mine church constructed by only 4 miners
    Us Wieliczking the wallsBlue PoolTour guide explaining the miner's silver hornJesus Marie they're minerals

    Wieliczka Salt Mine

    July 7, 2022 in Poland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    An 800 year old salt mine as deep as 370m. Everything, yes literally everything was made out of salt (even me), from the statues built by miners to the crystals in the chandeliers. Our tour guide's grandad even used to work here mining too.Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Famous and pretty street Krupowki in Zakopane
    Hunting for Goodbye LeninKaplica Jaszczoruwka (try saying that 3 times in a row)2Eric Djemba-Djemba!!!Pillow's a bit lumpy2Mao the cat (above) and Thomas the human (below)

    Zakopane

    July 7, 2022 in Poland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    [JJ] After getting off the bus in Zakopane, this evening has consisted of dinner in McDonald's, fighting self service checkouts in Lidl, and missing the bus stop to our hostel because we were having too much fun reminiscing about notable players who've played in the Indian football superleague, causing us to then have to walk through the damp dark Polish woods. We are well and truly amongst some beautiful mountains here, and although I haven't taken any pictures of them yet, we're thoroughly excited to get hiking tomorrow from our hostel: Goodbye Lenin Hostel, where a cat refuses to get off of my bed.Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    🦆
    In the elementOur first time in the High TatrasValley viewsApproaching the lake

    Czarny Staw Gasienicowy

    July 8, 2022 in Poland ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    [JJ] The first part of today's hike was astoundingly straightforward (at least compared to the second part, see next). We motored up to this very pretty lake, almost a warm up for the real delight at Rysy tomorrow. We also climbed up over Maly Koscielec before we deviating from our planned route for some gnarlier looking paths.Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    It was just a white poisoning
    Cloud 9Boulder, Colorado1Climbing up to the ridge on a whimStairway to (hopefully not) heaven after an incident with wolfsbaneWalking along the Poland-Slovakia borderSoakedThomas' ticket out of hypothermia

    Kasprowy Wierch

    July 8, 2022 in Poland ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    [JJ] After we descended from Karb, we saw a very pretty and inviting stream which led to the following interaction:

    JJ: *starts drinking from stream*
    Thomas: *looks over at plant further upstream and brushes against it* wow this plant is the most deadly in the UK!
    JJ: *spits out water*
    Thomas: wow apparently death from this plant is instantaneous
    Thomas: *then starts drinking from stream*?!!?

    So in spite of fearing we might have just poisoned ourselves (and in Thomas' case intentionally so?), we decided to trek up the exposed section to Swinicka Przelecz, where there were at least some incredible views to see while potentially dying. In particular, a vast valley unfolded beneath us from the top and looked out over the Slovakian border for the first time. Along the following ridge walk, a torrent of rain came hurtling from the sky as the forecast had been predicting all day. But disaster strikes at this very moment as Thomas discovers that he somehow left his coat at the hostel(!). So in the teeming rain we managed to rush to Kasprowy Wierch mountain and hide in the cable car station, where Thomas dried out a little and gorged on chips a lot before deciding the most sensible action was to take the cable car all the way down to Kuznice.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Our route of ascent emerges from the clouds
    A couple hundred metres into a 916m climb from Czarny Staw pod RysamiBreaking: Stone on a mountain2,499 metres in the sky, the summit of Poland!Just chillingChains and brains was order of the day. The mental challenge as large as the physicalA view vertically downwards. How are your nerves?The view during the climb. I should stress this is looking vertically upwardsMorskie OkoRidge cut crisps

    Mt Rysy

    July 9, 2022 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    [JJ] Rysy pysy 🍋 sqyzy

    Except actually it was difficult difficult lemon difficult. We severely underestimated climbing Poland's tallest mountain: Mt Rysy. After a 9 km hike from the entrance of the national park where the bus dropped us, we found our way to Morskie Oko, meaning 'eye of the sea' and the largest lake in the Tatras mountains. Unfortunately there was still some mountain fog lingering so we didn't quite see it in its full glory. After Thomas's 3rd (out of 6) toilet breaks of the day (get that checked out Thomas x) in the nearby restaurant, we then climbed up to Czarny Staw pod Rysami. This lake had an enchanting emerald colour and served as the backdrop to our ultimatum lunch before the ascent, and opposite to some beautiful waterfalls.

    When Rysy's outline vaguely emerged from the clouds on our approach, we doubted what the hell we were doing, but even then it probably should have alarmed us more than it did. The climb did start off as you might expect a steep hike to, however: twisty, craggy, strenuous. But as we ascended further and further into the clouds and past patches of snow, walking quickly turned into crawling and the path was quickly replaced by mere chains with which to haul ourselves up the cliff faces. The closer we inched to the summit, the more difficult it continued to degenerate: at one point Thomas even checked the map after what felt like a long section of scrambling only to find we had only moved 8 metres! This exposure continued for well over an hour and certain sections really did feel like one misplaced step could well have cost you your life, which I tried to find the funny side in. Perhaps the best way I can find to describe how dodgy the route was is that I finally experienced a collector's item, a swear word from Thomas!

    After mustering the mental strength to heave ourselves to the summit, we enjoyed some incredible views over the High Tatras as the clouds dispersed just at the right time. Looking down on an entire mountain range like that is a feeling I'll never forget!    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Leaving Poland on quite literally a high
    A warm welcome to SlovakiaCouldn't cairn less⛰️⛰️⛰️Posing on the Rysy slopesLily of the ValleyCan't believe they made me take off my high heelsSLKLadders?! Don't tell the Polish sideA possible new favourite train station for Thomas

    Popradské Pleso

    July 9, 2022 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    [JJ] Sat on the Rysy summit, we had a big old head befuddling think and concluded that we didn't fancy going back down the Polish side of the mountain, doing the scrambling we had done on the way up, except backwards. So we decided (without even knowing if we could get back to our accommodation) to hike down via the Slovak side which we knew was significantly easier.

    And luckily, it was not only significantly easier, but debateably more scenic too, as the clouds cleared and we descended through a series of gorgeous valleys. A quick game of 'throw the stone' and a lot of photo stops later and we found ourselves in an immaculate pine forest, which led down to Popradské Pleso train station. In spite of Thomas marvelling at the electric locomotive, the train timetable wasn't particularly favourable and after some problem solving, Thomas magic'd up a route back via a taxi to nearby village Vysoké Tatry, a bus to Lysa Polana at the border, then a final bus to the hostel.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Huge snails brought Thomas out of his shell
    Villa Vraji viewsSnailvakia (James Rich?)€0,85 for a trainWe have a lot of space to ourselves for a change!Sebby the snail! CHLEBBY*Stop forgetting to caption photos Thomas!

    Hrabusice

    July 10, 2022 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    [JJ] Today has been a fairly low-key event; Thomas felt fairly ill this morning so slept in while I chatted to Cleo and Olive, a pair of interrailling teens from Cornwall, as well as a friendly Polish woman in our dorm for a few hours. By midday we checked out and headed into Zakopane for the final time, where we refueled with lunch and said a final goodbye to Poland in what has been a thoroughly enjoyable visit. We then retraced our steps of yesterday, taking two buses before arriving in Poprad, oddly our third time (at least) entering Slovakia this trip. A final train ride was sandwiched by sightings of giant snails, which seem to be abundant here in Slovakia!

    We are now settling in at Villa Vraji and prepping for a trek through some gorges in Slovak Paradise tomorrow.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Slovak Paradise indeed
    Who puts the lad in ladderFollowing the stream up the waterfall2Who needs platforms when you've got the spirit of adventureDadder on the ladderSucha belá actually means dry whiteYo Mr White I got dripThe narrowest part of the gorgeRavine reviews

    Sucha Belá

    July 11, 2022 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    [JJ] We entered Slovak Paradise National Park early this morning and our first action was exploring sucha belá, an epic gorge with lanky via ferrata-esque ladders and platforms on a route twisting through the chasms above a crystal stream and deep below pristine pines.Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    I'll throw another limb over the cliff for every like on this post
    Tomás Stonesovky viewBear countryGetting chleb'dI literally didn't bring a water bottle so this was the only way ok?Gorge (the other kind)A wild Thomas emergesSome say that death fears me1We crossed the Honrád river multiple times on the return legBows of sturdy English oak (yes I know they're not actually)

    Tomásovsky View

    July 11, 2022 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    [JJ] After a stroll through the Slovakian woods, we emerged into a clearing with the ruins of an abandoned monastery dating back to 1299. It was only after rooting around there that we soon discovered a self-service beer dispenser in the middle of nowhere! And as tourists we felt obliged to do as the locals do, so naturally we stuck our heads right under the tap and necked the local lager straight! (Disclaimer: no locals did this.)

    We then took an atmospheric hike up to Tomásovsky View, experiencing the second up close sighting of a chamois on the trip. We joked about how a near death experience with a bear would make great reading for this blog and continue the theme of almost killing ourselves but unfortunately no bears obliged on this particular day. The remainder of the walking led us through more wacky gorge trekking while we found a way to fit 'chleb' into every word possible. Our best attempts included: Chlebanon, John McEnchleb and Chleibig condenser (don't ask, too much explaining needed.)

    Finally, we returned to Hrabusice after the local Coop closed so we feasted instead at Restauracia U Hudaka, where I can honestly say I had some of the best restaurant food I've ever eaten, it was amazing, and pretty cheap too!    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Slavín
    This is a burial ground of fallen Soviet soldiersLooking out to Bratislava castleLooking into the sun 🫣BratichlebaThe monument

    Bratislava

    July 12, 2022 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    [JJ] We got up at 4:50 am this morning to walk into Vydrnik in time to catch our train to Poprad, then onto Bratislava. We never even intended to stop in Bratislava but our train was delayed so we couldn't catch our connection onto Vienna on time. Luckily they go every hour though, so we went on a mad dash from the train station up to Slavín, a cool world war two memorial with scenic views over the city. 52 minutes later and we are back on the train and I think we've enjoyed most of what this city has to offer!Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    😄
    Gloriette at Schönbrunn PalaceBelvedere PalaceSt Stephen's Cathedral roofSchönbrunn PalaceInside the cathedralThe Hofberg, where there were horse drawn carts everywhereThomas worked out that his gender is Tramsexual1[JJ] I've got the weirdest boner right nowKarlskirche

    Vienna

    July 12, 2022 in Austria ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    [JJ] We packed a hell of a lot into our day trip to Vienna. First, we emerged from the hauptbahnhof and walked into the city centre via Belvedere Palace gardens. We then explored the area around the Hofberg and Spanish riding school, before a general explore took us to St Stephen's Cathedral, where we climbed the north tower and saw views over the city. Once we figured out how to navigate the metro, we found ourselves at Schönbrunn Palace, something of a lidl deluxe version of Kingston Lacy, and probably the most impressive attraction of the day. Finally we darted back to the main train station to collect some shopping and dinner to eat just in time for our train off to Budapest.

    Vienna was very pretty, filled with ornate pastel coloured architecture.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Hungarian Parliament Building
    Fisherman's BastionSt Stephen's Basilica (with some chins)The view from the top of the basilicaLooking at Buda castle across the DanubeA pretty waterfall beneath Gellert HillClimbing Buda HillChlebook cart1A budaful eveningNow we don't even know who's culture we're offending any more

    Budapest

    July 13, 2022 in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    [JJ] (13/07) This morning we walked into the city, exploring St Stephen's Basilica, where we went up to see some beautiful panoramic views. We then wandered across Erzsébet híd bridge to the other side of the Danube beneath Gellert Hill before going onto Buda hill, through the castle and Fisherman's bastion which looks down delightfully on the pretty Hungarian Parliament Building. Then we strolled along the river and made it to the train station hilariously in sync and just as the doors shut, after Thomas was buying tickets while I was buying ice creams from a local spar.

    (12/07) And we are heree. Budapest. We are staying in Szakuranbo, a tiny Japanese hostel, where everyone else is Japanese and speaks, well... Japanese.

    More updates tomorrow which I anticipate will be just as much of a whirlwind as today.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Just below the Predikálószék lookout
    The blue DanubeUs climbing like the apes we areLizardinhoThe ground was very loose in places descending todayThe road to VisegrádJust another Danube sunset

    Duna-Ipoly Nezmeti Park

    July 13, 2022 in Hungary ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    [JJ] Following a whistle-stop tour of Budapest's main attractions (see previous), we took a train then bus out to Pilisszentlászló, a tiny but quaint village in the forested national park which felt a million miles from the sprawling city we'd just emerged from. We hiked through a dry, remote forest to Predikáloszék lookout, where we looked out upon the vast Danube bend, then messed about on the hills' rocky outcrops as we descended down into Dömös. Our luck of catching public transport against the odds finally ran out though as we lacked the foresight to actually bring forint (cash) to pay for the bus back, and in spite of our incomprehensible pleas for the bus driver to take our Euros. As a result we were forced into an eastward trek through middle-of-nowhere Hungary for an hour to Visegrád along large roads, trying to avoid angry Hungarian farmers' land and what we later learnt we threatening 'do not trespass' signs. Naturally, our reward waiting in Visegrád was a cash machine and an industrial quantity of fanta.Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    A scandal in Belgradia / Mum come pick me up I'm scared
    Queues so long that people literally drove around the motorwayGreat, a full moon, werewolves is all we need right now

    Belgrade

    July 14, 2022 in Serbia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    [JJ] Hahahah, well things certainly just got interesting. I guess this is proper travelling now. Our plan today was to catch a coach first from Budapest to Belgrade, then immediately onto Skopje having already bought tickets for both journeys. But as sod's law teaches us, what could go wrong definitely will go wrong. Our coach was delayed by almost 6 (SIX) hours after a combination of long waits at the EU border crossing, and a heavy crash on the main motorway into Belgrade. We attempted to distract ourselves by discussing the nuances of swimming the Shropshire Union Canal, but ultimately reality hit us hard and fast when we finally set foot in the Serbian capital.

    Belgrade is most definitely the most alien feeling place either of us have ever been by a longgg way. Honestly it felt like stepping back in time, and neither of us were (or still are) able to use the internet without incurring giant roaming charges either, so working basically anything out was out of the question. Somehow though we blagged our way into buying a ticket on another bus despite not even being able to read the alphabet, never mind understand the language. In fact, we comically didn't even understand how much we'd paid for the ticket (our best guesses were by comparing with prices of sandwiches). Then we might've even bribed a guy at the ticket gates but we're not entirely sure? Regardless, we're here, wherever here is (some random service station with cafe WiFi), and heading out of Serbia (thank god) !    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    It's almost oddly quiet for a capital city
    😎Our sixth country of the tripArc de Triomphe eat your heart outWe ate unknown pastries by this giant tall ship in the Vardar riverA rare Macedonian flamingoSkopje fortressThere was some sort of weird anti-fascism protest going on in front of this monumentСкопјеThe view up to Vodno just before dawn

    Skopje

    July 15, 2022 in North Macedonia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    [JJ, 5 AM] Well I can't help but notice that we are in Skopje. And only over 8 hours later than planned! I have to say, North Macedonia's capital has an infinitely better feel to it than Serbia's, and we found our way easily through the empty, dawn lit streets to Get Inn Hostel.

    [JJ, 12 PM] We love Skopje! There's something endearing about its somehow quiet but chaotic nature. There are giant statues literally everywhere, motorbikes driving on the pavements, a bus ticket station inside a broken down bus. Yet there is some oddly beautiful architecture here too.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Vodno cable car
    The giant Millennium Cross5Thomas went berserk for the Sparrowtail butterfliesThe Vodno viewMacedonia's mountains1There were literally insects flying all over the place1Thomas took some gems, now he'll be up all night identifying them allShould we be worried?!

    Vodno

    July 15, 2022 in North Macedonia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    [JJ] After a delightful Skopje wander (see earlier), we rocketed up Vodno on a ridiculously cheap cable car. Our mission now is to hike along the ridge to get to Matka canyon. We are absolutely loving North Macedonia! Thomas is enchanted in butterfly diversity heaven and the views aren't bad either. I'm not even from here yet I feel as though I'm proud to be Macedonian!?Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Enjoying a boat ride in Matka canyon
    I have no words for these cliffsIncredible sleepy monastery shop placeDescending the ridgeView from crossing the damThis wooden structure was hilariously rickety1Matka canyon first appears2The Old Bazaar

    Matka Canyon

    July 15, 2022 in North Macedonia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Wow, Matka is a special, special place. In the searing heat on our hike from Vodno, we didn't come across a single other person for several hours until we descended steeply from the ridge and emerged into a sleepy little monastery. We enjoyed some well earned refreshingly cold drinks while Macedonian music played over a chorus of Cicadas, overlooking this incredible gorge. It was unforgettable, and felt like a place entirely untouched by typical tourists. We then descended further and crossed a dam, somewhat illegally, before enjoying a boat ride down the canyon in the golden light. After a subsequent further explore, we then took a bus back into Skopje and discovered the Old Bazaar, where we sat and enjoyed some delightful £2 pizzas.

    Macedonia's certainly got some quirks: a literal kid driving a taxi offered us a lift back into town; the bus driver stopped mid-journey on the way back to go into the shop and buy peaches all while the engine was still running; and we saw little kids smoking shisha pipes this evening. It may be a little rough around the edges but we are quite sad to be leaving Macedonia so soon; it feels like we have been here for much longer than essentially a day, and I have no doubt that one day we will return.    Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Plenty of room on the bus!
    More mosquesKosovan countrysideHiding from the law

    Pristina

    July 16, 2022 in Kosovo ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    [JJ] That was the dodgiest border crossing we've (me specifically) endured yet, with a corrupt Kosovan version of Steve Bruce at the wheel. I'll leave out the details so my mum and dad don't get annoyed at me lol but we are finally here in Europe's newest country, and seventh of our trip!Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    View from Prizren Fortress
    New Prizren'd possession / how to be murdered by a Serb in one easy stepOld bridge, old mosque, old man / Thomosque Stone?A plaque thanking every country that helped Kosovo gain independence (I assume)Heat death of the Thomasverse, I've never seen more sweat on a human1Wide angle fortress view1New kid on the blockPretty sure these are called mountains

    Prizren

    July 16, 2022 in Kosovo ⋅ ☀️ 34 °C

    [JJ] Well we've spent the day in Prizren; not in orange jumpsuits, but instead in orange faces due to the beating sun. We sweatily climbed up to Prizren fortress and admired the Kosovan terrain. A few chores later and now we're posting bail to Albania...Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    An Albanian roundabout (definitely what you follow this journey for pics of)
    Pasta eating position on the hostel roofThe journey to Tirana contoured through scenic mountains

    Tirana

    July 16, 2022 in Albania ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Our 7th country in 5 days... And breathe... Except sike! Because we have to get up at 4am tomorrow to hitch our ride into the mountains. We do, however, have a new favourite word at least: Lek, the Albanian currency. Let's see how that ages as we head north from Tirana, the southernmost point of our journey.Read more

  • Backpacking 2022
    Komani Lake
    Getting closer to Kosovo againThe ferry across the lake lasted 3h and we didn't spot any signs of civilization anywhere along itFerry niceBoaty McBoatfaceMid-route service station?Today's surroundingsThe view from our cabinEarly morning dodgy drive to the ferryAn authentic Albanian experience

    Valbonë

    July 17, 2022 in Albania ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    [JJ] The ride to Valbonë was a multi-legged voyage through the startlingly beautiful and remote mountains cresting the emerald Komani Lake. We were treated to some highly authentic Albanian music, an extensive 3½ hour ferry ride, and a further minibus ride up to Butina Albjoni, our accommodation for the next couple of nights.Read more

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