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Ancient Agorà (Roman Forum), Thessaloniki

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    • TravelerThirty Before Thirty
      22
      Day 6

      Thessaloniki

      July 16, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

      The view from my bed tonight 😁
      My hostel, ‘Zeus is Loose’ is Greek god themed and after a very hot and sweaty walk from the bus station this afternoon, I make a mental note to thank the gods for a cold shower and cool rooms 😉

      Thessaloniki itself seems like a city that’s fallen on hard times. Littered with important historical sites, it’s Greece’s second biggest city and has become one of the largest ports in the Aegean. It’s been a largely industrial city and it seems like there’s a lot of discontent. Political street art about everything from micro plastics to the holocaust (which hit the city hard with almost 25% of its population being Jewish at the time of WWII) in the suburbs, gives way to political graffiti and calls to ‘burn the police’ in the centre. I’m told the city was struggling due to de-industrialisation taking place but the pandemic and recent economic crises have only made things worse and it’s evident in the large homeless population and drug use visible in broad daylight even from the more ‘touristy’ area. Given that the sun is setting and the girl at the front desk couldn’t tell me quickly enough not to walk from the train station at night, I call it a night early.      Read more

    • TravelerThessaloniki
      212
      Day 2

      Ein bisserl was Altes, ein bisserl ..

      January 27 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

      was Neues!

      Nach einem feinen Frühstück „a la carte“ 🥰mache ich mich auf den Weg.

      In Thessaloniki gibt es nicht DIE Ausgrabungen, DIE alten Schätze auf einem Areal!
      Hier muss man sie finden, zwischen Häusern, hinter kleinen Grünanlagen - mitten im Leben der Saloniker.

      Besonders die Rotunde, von Kaiser Galerius als sein Mausoleum angedachtes Bauwerk von 306 n.C. beeindruckt mich sehr!
      6,3 m dicke Mauern, 30 m hoch und atemberaubende Mosaike auf Goldgrund - ein 25 m im Durchmesser umfassendes Kuppelgewölbe - WOW!
      Dass er dann doch in seiner Heimat in Ostserbien begraben wurde, die Rotunde ab dem 4. Jhdt. eine der ersten christlichen Kirchen wurde (unter Kaiser Theodosius I.) - ihm hätte es nicht gefallen, denn er war ein Christenverfolger.

      Auch dem Inneren des weißen Turms statte ich einen Besuch ab - die Geschichte der Stadt wird dort sehr anschaulich erklärt.

      Im „Museum of Contemporary Art“ gibt es dann mein Kontrastprogramm- wer mich kennt, weiß dass ich das liebe.
      Noch bis 11.2.2024 zeigen sie auch einen Teil der alle 2 Jahre stattfindenden Foto Biennale.

      Heute bläst der Wind so stark, ich muss mich regelrecht dagegen stemmen. Gottseidank scheint die Sonne und das Thermometer zeigt wieder 13 Grad an.

      Eine Pinsa und ein Glas Wein später - im alten Markt,- und Tischler Viertel Vatikioti, erhole ich mich ein wenig im Hotel, bevor ich noch x losmarschiere.      Read more

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    • Grèce
      Day 16

      Thessalonique 💣

      September 14, 2023 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Arrivés ce matin à Thessalonique après un dodo de 3h, nous avons engagé la journée dans l’optique de farniente. Nous réussissions tant bien que mal à rejoindre notre auberge à 11h. s’enchaîne ensuite une recherche intensive de plage/transat afin d’en faire le moins possible… une fois posé, c’est la sieste qui s’élance bercée par le bruit de l’eau et parfois agitée par le cri des gosses… que voulez vous, on allait tout de même pas les noyer ? Retour à l’auberge, s’en suit une soirée agréable sur le rooftop de notre auberge à discuter avec diverses personnes. Couché minuit afin d’être en forme pour le lendemain.Read more

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    • TravelerThessaloniki
      Day 3

      Die „heimlichen“ Herrscher der Stadt..

      January 28 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 9 °C

      …. sind die Katzen!
      Sie liegen faul in der Sonne, verstecken sich, halten von oben den Überblick …. Gefüttert und versorgt von vielen Salonikern.

      Heute geht es mit dem Bus Nr. 23 in die obere Altstadt - Ano Poli.
      An deren Fuß liegt die Basilika zu Ehren des Stadtpatrons, Agios Dimitrios - einst eine frühchristliche Kultstätte, wo Dimitrios 306 n. Ch. von Lanzen durchbohrt, starb.

      Der Busfahrer ist ein Künstler und hat gute Nerven, während er sich hinauf schraubt, mehrfach reversiert weil alles zugeparkt ist.
      Bei der byzantinischen Stadtmauer steige ich aus - ihr folge ich später bergab (einst ging sie bis zum Hafen!)
      Eine Runde um das Kastro und ihre Zitadelle = Eptabirgio (7 Türme) bevor es wieder runter geht.
      Heute ist ja Sonntag, leider sind daher viele der Kirchen geschlossen oder sperren erst wieder gegen Abend auf.
      Aber ein Blick auf die kleine Agios Nikolaos Orfanos von 1310 mit wunderschönen Fresken geht sich aus.

      Einen Espresso und eine mit Gries-Milchcreme gefüllte Köstlichkeit in einer kleinen Bäckerei später werfe ich auch einen Blick auf das Geburtshaus von Kemal Atatürk.

      Einem kleinen Laden voller Nüsse und getrockneter Früchte kann ich nicht widerstehen, bevor ich im Hotel eine kurze Siesta halte.      Read more

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    • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
      1
      1111
      Day 14

      Day 14 Corfu to Ioannina

      May 25, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      I was glad to leave the cave behind though only scratched the surface of Corfu. It took me the 3 days to work out how not to get lost in the old town - it was a surprisingly big town and with a car the island must have a lot to offer.
      Early start with 8:15 bus from the Green Bus Terminal. Had to buy bus and ferry ticket at bus station but yet they stop at the port for some to get out and buy the ferry ticket. Ferry was uneventful, found the bus again and got stuck with crazy woman who looked terrified the bus would crash, then Ktel at its finest dumped me 5 km out of Ioannina. Lovely greek girl from bus appeared with taxi going to the bus station I was expecting and she offered me a lift - saved!!
      Ioannina bus station was savage - crowded as it is election day tomorrow and many people have to return to their home town to vote. Bought a ticket for Monday and was not thinking much of Ioannina till i reached Its Kale Hotel in the walls of the old castle - mountains with snow in the distance. Half an hour wait for room but they gave me coffee, apple pie, water, wifi and information - does not happen that way in Berlin!
      Great lunch of mushroom, potato, cheese bake and first retsina at the most crowded taverna in the main shopping street. And complimentary salad with unusual greens “from the sea”.
      Dinner at Serios recommended by hotel was ordinary grilled chicken, large bowl of horta and 1/4 kilo white wine.      Read more

    • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
      1
      1
      Day 13

      Day 13 Corfu

      May 24, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Fun day even though the cruise ships were in. Bought 2 excellent small spanakopitas and walked early up to the new fort and the old fort for spectacular views over the town and sea. Decided against bus to Sidari as likely to be as touristy as Paleokastritsa yesterday and I really have not spent much time in Corfu town.
      Walked south to the windmill for an excellent swim off the rocks. Met the local swimmers who are 365 day a year-ers and retired Olympic Airline stewards. Then stopped for what was to be a light lunch and have never tipped nearly 100% of the bill before. Ordered ouzo and fried zucchinis for 6euros total and was also given tzatziki, olives, orange cake, yoghurt and strawberries -Taverna Alexakis will get a good tripadvisor rating from me.
      On the way back I had an afternoon swim just off the corner of where i am staying and was entertained by italian boys being too afraid of the cold water to swim but trying to impress the girls who were already in.
      Angie and Giorgio invited me to their air bnb for ouzo aperitivo so popped downtown and bought a selection of fancy chocolates to take. Just as well as of course aperitivo of course with greek/italians turned into dinner - very pleasant on the steps of the Byzantine Museum with uninterrupted sea and sunset views. Angie’s 90 yo mother Toula joined us - a very fiesty woman who had a strange fixation with Israel and calling us snowmen as we were wrapped in cosy blankets.      Read more

    • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
      11
      Day 15

      Day 15 Ioannina

      May 26, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      Ioannina is famous for pies and breakfast at Its Kale Hotel was an excellent example - chicken pie, cheese pie, spinach pie, bougatsa plus cooked to order omelette, rice pudding, meats, cheese, coffee and juice.
      Took the 15min ferry to Nisi Island - extremely peaceful with amazing frescoes in one of the monasteries and hideous live eels from the lake in tanks in tavernas. Ali Pasha museum also.
      Took 5 euro taxi to the impressive Perama Cave. Us 3 english speakers were herded to the front with the majority of the group behind, Guide did both languages. Penny (who went to Beacon Hill High) and Bob drove me back to town and we had a drink at a taverna on the lake.      Read more

    • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
      Day 18

      Day 18 Kalambaka - Thessaloniki

      May 29, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Two trains to get to Thessaloniki but what a sensory impact this city has !
      Very byzantine feel, chaotic but get off the main Via Egnatia and its quiet but interesting.
      The Blue Bottle Hotel staff were lovely - free cappuccino, croissant and water for 20 mins while room cleaning was being finished.
      Explored down to the main square onto waterfront and into the street markets. Cafes galore, sweet shops galore.
      Joined the “free” walking tour of the upper town (ano poli) at 6pm meeting at Profit Ilias. Giorgos was a great talker and historian and musican but he didnt really show much. Nevertheless the Profit Ilias was great (why did he not even mention it?) and we walked to the acropolus of the town which i wouldnt have done for great views. Past the church of St David with amazing mosaic as evidenced by the picture he showed us (poor marketing to me). He played us two rembetika songs on bouzouki also. Noted some street signs show distance, minutes to walk and calaries you will burn.
      Long walk home so dinner at Extravaganza - pea risotto with greek rose and yum Samos vin doux.      Read more

    • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
      121
      Day 23

      Day 23 Thessaloniki

      June 3, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Fun day visiting 4 churches, 2 museums and had my nails done.
      Enjoyed Blue Bottle breakfast of spanakopita, bougatsa, boiled egg, yoghurt and berries and good cappo.
      Agios Demetrious (roman remains underneath), Profit Ilias, Agia Sophia but standout was St Davids with 5th century mosaic looking like an eye!
      Enjoyed the hilly graffiti streets of Ano Poli, look a bit dodgey but perfectly safe. Then spontaneously got nailed for 8 euro.
      Archaelogy museum was unchanged from last visit - gold jewellery, diadems and Diverni crater.
      Lunched at back of white tower at Middle East with excellent falafel, homous and tabouli for 3euro with random english woman who has convinced me to go to Crete.
      Back to the Byzantine museum - good but too much information.
      Dinner again at same place as last night - octopus with fava beans ( i thought it was avacado) and complimentary dessert of stringy baklava base topped with cream.
      Great stay in Thess - 3 days was perfect. Athens tomorrow !      Read more

    • TravelerBerlin, Corfu Northern Greece
      Day 22

      Day 22 Escape from Nikiti

      June 2, 2019 in Greece ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

      Apart from ktel bus being the usual half an hour late turning up, the trip was easy.
      The Blue Bottle Hotel staff are so nice - welcome cappuccino, croissant and a chat. So had such a nice day except for some limping due to smashing my toe at Nikiti - but it didn’t stop my steps, just slowed then.
      Great day exploring the town despite shops being closed on Sundays so things a bit quieter. Saw the roman agora then the ceiling mosaiced rotunda. Roman built with a minaret later added. Next a thunderstorm hit and Via Egnatia, the main street could not cope at all - completely flooded so that I could not cross the road.
      Stopped for a gyros then onto the White Tower. Bought the 5 museum pass - I am so enjoying museums this trip - go as slow or fast as i wish! Nice view from the top and good audio on the history of the city.
      Waterfront was busy with everyone having afternoon frappes, ouzis etc in the sun. An hour later and another thunderstorm.
      Rested and researched at BlueBottle, then dinner at E Kanoula - so good, lamb, cous cous and apricots ( tasted morocan). Really were it not for google one would not eat in a narrow graffitied street but so glad i did !
      So far only 3 things have changed in Greece since circa 2003 and all are restaurant related :
      1, olive oil is no longer on the tables
      2. if you order retsina the waiter will question whether you are really sure
      3. A complimentary dessert is given - orange syrup cake tonight.      Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Ancient Agorà (Roman Forum), Thessaloniki, Ancient Agora (Roman Forum)

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