Turkey & The Middle East

March - May 2015

A 66-day adventure by Hussen Read more

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- Mar 13, 2015, 7:29pm
- ⛅ 6 °C
- Altitude: 364 ft
- England Birmingham Stechford River Rea 52.48979, -1.8302352°29’23” N 1°49’49” W
Day 1
Home - Packing!
March 13, 2015 in England ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
Packing takes a lot more thought than I would like to put in but it's an important precursor to a backpacking trip. I used the "First Time Around the World" guide book from the local library to build my list around and also plan my journey. A very thorough and a useful travel companion. I've splashed out on a decent backpack (Berghaus Jalan) and shoes (Merrel Moab Ventilators). I've also bought gel insoles for added comfort. I've mashed up a decent first aid kit and have a minimal set of clothes. I may have overdone it in some areas (emergency blanket, sink plug the size of my head, some rain protection items, a pretty big foldout diva mirror, etc).Read more
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- Apr 2, 2015, 1:16am
- 🌧 7 °C
- Altitude: 348 ft
- England Birmingham 52.47417, -1.8841152°28’27” N 1°53’3” W
Day 21
The Journey Begins!
April 2, 2015 in England ⋅ 🌧 7 °C
I was pretty nervous at home my heart was beating like crazy but I felt alive. By the time I got to the coach station I felt ready. It hasn't fully sunk in yet. The farewell wasn't as emotional as I thought it would be which was good (the family were present) Let's get this show on the road!Read more
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- Apr 2, 2015, 5:53am
- ☁️ 7 °C
- Altitude: 43 ft
- England Hillingdon Heathrow Heathrow 51.4775, -0.461451°28’39” N 0°27’41” W
Day 21
Heathrow Terminal 2 + Coppers
April 2, 2015 in England ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C
Feeling like a Pakistani Mr Bean right now bungling along from one stage to the next. Never been to Heathrow before am learning everything as I go along. Finally got to the departure lounge and relaxed a little. As I tried to board my worst fear was realised. I got stopped by 2 counterterrorism officers :O One grilled me whilst the other checked me out over the phone. The griller would go to the checker and chat conspiratorially whilst glancing suspiciously at me every 3 minutes or so, making me feel as if I'd said something incriminating. I had enough proof to convince the guy I was legit and finally the call came back negative so 10 mins later I was good to go. BIG PHEW.. I didn't want the journey to end before it had even started...

Anyways got on the plane. Was a little worried they might come back and then finally relaxed as the plane went up ;) AaaaaaahRead more
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- Apr 2, 2015, 3:16pm
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 52 ft
- Turkey Istanbul Fatih Aksaray 41.01054, 28.9514941°0’38” N 28°57’5” E
Day 21
Touchdown, Metro & Hotel
April 2, 2015 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Beautiful views coming down. Photos on DSLR. Smooth landing. Have a newfound respect for pilots. They're like the captains of the sky boats. Getting through security was simple enough and finally got to the exit hall. First things first, got myself a 4gb sim. After a rest and some phone calls made my way to the Metro. Was looking for some help to get an Istanbul Travel 'Kart' (card) when a nice commuter paid for my ticket and directed me where to go (Aksaray) The Metro reminded me of London bringing on mixed feelings. Coming out of the Metro revealed a well designed open space next to rows of busy shops. The short walk to the hotel made me feel as if I was in Pakistan but with another language. Walked past the herbal Viagra sellers, climbed up the stairs and after paying for my stay was given the keys to my room. Aaaah finally, I can take these shoes off (which I haven't worn in yet).Read more
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- Apr 2, 2015, 5:53pm
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 46 ft
- Turkey Istanbul Fatih Aksaray 41.0104, 28.9524941°0’37” N 28°57’9” E
Day 21
Aimless stroll + hummus!
April 2, 2015 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Half an hour rest, shower, then back out. Started walking towards Fatih. Wherever you look you can find a minaret. And these smaller mosques are huge and grand. Each time I saw a new one I thought, "This must be the Haghia Sophia" Fool me...
Nice to hear the adhaans again. Senses overloaded with shops, sellers, lights, stalls, people.. Decided on a restaurant with some help from TripAdvisor. Best. Hummus & Lamb. EVER! And even better still only about 3 quid. The hummus was creamy and buttery and the meat, juicy and full of flavour.
And that continued my walk. Walked past shops, more mosques, Istanbul Uni, a rag market. Eventually reached upon a bazaar district made up of long narrow alleyways sectioned into different specialities. From my brief time there (it was getting late and I was nackered), I saw jeans, jeans, all type of jeans, antiques, (genuine as well), books and plates. Will have to have an extensive look tomorrow. On the way back considered purchasing either a knife, pepper spray, taster or knuckle duster for safety. It was beginning to get dark. I stopped to watch some university kids play basketball. On the way home Maghrib adhaans started and I was able to slip into the huge mosque I was walking past. I made wudhu in the outer courtyard before going in. It was so grand I was convinced it was Hagia Sophia. Turns out it was Sultan Camii.

Got home, made phone calls, sorted some stuff out for tomorrow. Ear plugs and a well needed sleep..Read more
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- Apr 3, 2015, 2:00pm
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 161 ft
- Turkey Istanbul Fatih Cağaloğlu 41.0105, 28.9685141°0’38” N 28°58’7” E
Day 22
The Grand Bazaar
April 3, 2015 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
Woke up and went to the mess for some buffet breakfast. An interesting combination of bread and soup (lentils) with sweet meats, cheese, olives and salad. Being complimentary I loaded up. The coffee was good and the combo was filling. Nabbed a boiled egg for later.

Had to bandage up my big toes as they were in some pain. Thank goodness for the bandage tape I had in my first aid kit.

So off to the Grand Bazaar. 7 min walk and I'm there. I realised now that I went to the Old Bazaar yesterday. The Grand Bazaar is a mix of open and covered alleyways with sections such as leather, antiques, crafts, jewellery etc. Thoroughly enjoyed getting lost here. Bought some Ithr - pure musk and amber.Read more
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- Apr 3, 2015, 2:34pm
- ⛅ 13 °C
- Altitude: 164 ft
- Turkey Istanbul Fatih Cağaloğlu Nuruosmaniye mosque 41.01012, 28.9741°0’36” N 28°58’12” E
Day 22
Jummah & Lunch
April 3, 2015 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C
As I came out of the bazaar I was greeted with the adhaan for Jummah salah coming from the grand Nuruosmaniye Mosque before me. I quickly made wudu in the courtyard before stumbling in. Stunning. The khutbah was in Turkish. I was in the 3rd row and before I knew it I looked back and the whole mosque was full. The recitation was beautiful.

After salah I left to find my way to the restaurant recommended to me by the hotel receptionist by the Roman aqua duct. I found a nice sheesha place on the way and yet another even grander mosque (Shezade Cami) which I entered.

The dish recommended to me was called Perde Pilavi, essentially a block of rice and chicken held together with pastry to look like an upside down cake. Had that with Ayran yoghurt drink.

By the time I got back I was shattered so although it was early I knocked out.Read more
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- Apr 8, 2015, 8:49am
- ⛅ 6 °C
- Altitude: 85 ft
- Turkey Istanbul Fatih Haseki 41.01136, 28.944641°0’41” N 28°56’41” E
Day 27
The European Side
April 8, 2015 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C
After checking out I made my way to the European side. The walk was long and tiring and I'm sure the Grand Hotel Palmiye wasn't where it was advertised to me but further along. Had tea whilst waiting for the room to be ready. It was tiny! The TV didn't work (not a bigs) and the shower needed some sellotape but got there in the end. Skype call and some TripAdvisor prowling later I made my way out into this more modern side, with its long, narrow and steep streets all eventually connecting up to the main tram line street which cuts through Beyoglu.

First stop: a quaint tobacco cafe on the first floor with windows which open out to give a more terracey feel. With some help I chose my tobacco and rolled up before sitting down for some tea (all on the house). With the sun streaming in and the owners cat purring in my lap I basked thoughtlessly for a timeless while.

Eventually, the thought of all there is to do today called me back to the moment. Thanking the owner I clambered down the stairs (feeling very old and stiff) and made my way towards Taksim square. Looking back now it's as if the majority of people out were young adults.

The new generation of Taksim seem to have for the most part completely embraced western thought and culture and shed their roots without guilt. They are in many ways rapidly westernising to the point I think they may end up outdoing them at their own game!Read more
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- Apr 8, 2015, 10:08am
- ⛅ 7 °C
- Altitude: 85 ft
- Turkey Istanbul Fatih Haseki 41.01133, 28.9446141°0’41” N 28°56’41” E
Day 27
Taksim Square, Art + Hipster Central
April 8, 2015 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C
Had a bite to eat before reaching Taksim Square. It was nothing special and I tried to imagine the mass of people who had been here protesting not long ago. Some teenagers were showing off their rollerblading skills but I was unable to photograph them.

From here I made my way down the steep stairways towards the coast. I sat by the sea, saw some mosques and spent (wasted) some money on Istanbul Modern Art Gallery (These artists are better bullshitters than me) I mean I tried to be artsy fartsy but there's only so many naked fat contorted ladies I can put up with before i call bullshit on the 'deep' descriptions of what these pieces signify. It wasn't all bad though there were some cool pieces including a corridor with a ceiling made of books and a photo exhibition.

Walking towards the bridge along the coast I came upon the cool new hangout area of Beyoglu. A once poor district recently converted to a series of cafes, art galleries and restaurants. The injection of development into this area did have an interesting although melancholic feel for me as generations old history made way for new, to cater to the tourists and upper and middle class with money to burn (as if Istanbul didn't have enough).Read more
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- Apr 8, 2015, 10:10am
- ⛅ 7 °C
- Altitude: 85 ft
- Turkey Istanbul Fatih Haseki 41.01135, 28.9446341°0’41” N 28°56’41” E
Day 27
Mosque, American & Performing Arts
April 8, 2015 in Turkey ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C
Back along the bridge I went to Sulaymaniye Mosque. Beautiful. I prayed and relaxed before making my way to Hodjapasha Cultural Centre. Realising I had time to kill I was convinced to go to a restaurant for some tea. It was on the fourth floor with large sliding windows overlooking the water. Here I met an American psychotherapist working for the military and we spoke at great length about Islam, current affairs and so on until I realised I was actually running late. Rushing I reached the centre in time. Although my seat was terrible I was excited to see this performance set in an authentic dome shaped hammam. The visuals were stunning, projected on the walls whilst the story unfolding about a harem girl who falls for a Dutch ambassador during the Tulip Period. The music, visuals and dancing was excellent. Definitely a highlight of my visit so far.

Pooped, I walked back to my hotel, surprised to find out how lively it was. Throngs of people were out and shops were open everywhere as I walked back at half 11 at night. As I came up to Galata I found many side street clubs blaring music, 2 or 3 on each street. Everyone seemed to be heading in one general direction, away from Taksim, I should have asked where.

I finally arrived at my hotel and exhausted, I conked out.Read more
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