Italy
Sestière di Dorsoduro

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    • Day 70

      Venedig

      October 4, 2016 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

      Von Chiogga fuhren wir abends nach Venedig auf die Festlandseite. Dank der Park4night App haben wir dort 24 Stunden kostenlos stehen können und auch der Expressbus fuhr direkt von dort auf die Altstadtinsel, den wir bereits um 8.15 Uhr genommen haben. Dort angekommen haben wir einen wunderschönen Tag in Venedig verbracht. Insgesamt sind wir 12 Stunden und 21 km weit durch die Gassen und Brücken rauf und runter gewandert.
      Nach dem schönen Tag fuhren wir noch 200km bis Bergamo, wo wir den Wagen für eine Woche am Flughafen parken (24€) und nach Berlin fliegen.

      Nächste Woche geht's weiter.
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    • Day 18

      Venice is sinking!

      July 22, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

      We left our hotel at 11, and got a cab to take us to the train station. We could have walked 30 minutes to get there, but it was already 30c by 9 am, so cab it was!

      Our train ride to Venice was uneventful and only took about 90 minutes. We were on another high speed train, but luckily it didn't go through tunnels and were able to see the countryside. Evan watched episodes of the Simpsons as we traveled.

      Arriving in Venice was quite a shock! You stepped out of the train station and there was the Grand Canal! It was RIGHT there! Brad had to get us vaperetto passes, so Evan and I sat with our luggage and watched the water busses and water taxis go by. Once we had our tickets, we hopped on our first water bus (vaperetto). It moved much more slowly than I had anticipated, but it is a busy waterway and there are other water vehicles on it. Eventually we made it to our stop and we called our host. She met us in a square just beyond our stop and took us through winding streets and over bridges to get to our apartment.

      We got acquainted with the place and then had to hurry to get to Saint Mark's Square as we had timed entry into the Basilica. Another win for us because without the timed entry, we would have been waiting in a very long line. I don't have any pictures from the Basilica because you are not allowed to take any, but I can tell you that the ceilings were all mosaics, which is a pretty stunning sight! The mosaics were of many different Biblical stories and I could not believe how far they stretched on for. Even the underside of the arches were done in mosaic!

      After we were routed out of the Basilica (they want you there for 10 minutes only!) we walked around the Square for a bit. People seemed to be enamoured with feeding the pigeons, which is actually against the law here (and rightfully so).

      We finally meandered our way back to our area. The streets here are more like alleys and they go every which way! It is incredible how the waterways are ever present and take the place of streets here. You often read about it or see it on tv, but you can't really believe it until you see it - it almost doesn't seem possible.

      We bought a few groceries to serve as our last few breakfasts and then headed home. Evan was a sweaty mess and had to have a shower once we got there. The humidity is so high that it didn't take more than a few steps for him to become soaked.

      Before long we had to get going for dinner. This required a walk, a vaperetto, and another walk - taking about 35 minutes altogether. We chose to dine at CoVino, as we had read good reviews about their three course dinner.
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    • Day 19

      Murano and Burano

      July 23, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Today we got up early so we could get to Murano and then Burano in good time. We hopped on the vaperetto and it took us away from Venice and on to the island of Murano which is famous for its glass. We had a quick cappuccino (standing, not sitting because it costs more to sit) and checked out two glass places.

      The first one had the most elaborate glass chandeliers you have ever seen! They were all different colours and designs, some had glass flowers, others looked more traditional. Evan spotted the menagerie of glass animals and picked out a colourful dolphin to buy as a souvenir. At the second shop we were able to see a bit of glass blowing in action. Considering how hot it is, I have a lot of respect for the people who are standing by a fire blowing glass!

      We only had 30 minutes in Murano before we needed to get back on the vaperetto and go to Burano. The vaperetto was packed and we had to stand for most of the 45-60 minute ride. Needless to say, we were able when it was time to get off the packed, sweaty water bus.

      Burano is a very small town that people mostly visit for the brightly coloured houses. There are all sorts of colours: blue, yellow, even purple. Apparently they are also known for their lace and we did pass many lace shops along the way. We spent some time taking photos and ducking into tourist shops before stoping for lunch. This region of Italy is known for its fish and seafood, so we found a place that only had an Italian menu and that was mostly fish based.

      Evan decided to have a mixed seafood linguini, Brad had a mixed seafood salad, and I had gnocchiletti with a zucchini cream and shrimp. The meal was pricey (it is a tourist town after all) but the food was excellent! Brad and I even got to try an Aperol Spritz, a drink that is very popular here. I can see why it's so popular as it was very cold and refreshing!

      After lunch, we caught the vaperetto back to Venice, although that ride took nearly 45 minutes. At least we got seats on our journey back though!
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    • Day 19

      Biennale

      July 23, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      When we arrived back on the mainland, we walked about 20 minutes to get to the Arsenale sight of the Biennale. The Biennale is a huge art exhibit that happens every two years, and there are pavilions where each country has an artist to represent his/her country. We have tickets to see both venues, but they are so big that we just went to one today.

      We spent about three hours touring the emerging artists' pavilion, which were all arranged thematically. There was a lot of contemporary pieces, which are not really my thing, but some were quite neat. There was a huge piece that featured strands of thread that connected to a table of clothes demonstrating the idea that we are connected by the clothes we wear and who fashions them. There was also a piece that had a wall of old running shoes that had been turned into pots to grow plants. Evan and I also found a tee pee made of yarn that you could go sit in.

      After a quick granita break, we began to explore some of the smaller countries' pavilions. The highlight may have been the huge horse sculpture in the Argentina pavilion! It completely dominated the space and was quite stunning to see. Brad and Evan also liked some work in the China pavilion, which featured huge cut outs and the use of silk embroidery.

      We were arted-out by now, so we used the golf cart shuttle service to take us back to the main entrance. Evan quite enjoyed our quick ride! Then we took the vaperetto back to our apartment.

      Evan had to have a shower when we got back as he'd been dripping in sweat since we set out this morning. We had wrongly assumed there'd be dinner options on Sunday night, so it was a bit challenging once we found out so many places were closed. Eventually we set out to find Al Nono Risorto.

      When we arrived, it was absolutely packed! We had to wait about half an hour to be seated, but it was nice to be out on the terrace to eat. Evan decided on a carbonara pizza, Brad started with a shellfish pasta and then had squids in ink with polenta, and I had an octopus and potato salad followed by polenta and baccala. The Venetians don't eat as much pasta as some of the other places we have been, which has probably been a good thing for our waist lines! It was a nice meal and honestly, we were just happy to find a place that was open!
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    • Day 20

      Peggy Guggenheim

      July 24, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

      It was a cool morning (26c, 29c with humidity) so walking about was actually quite pleasant. We strolled along the streets and popped into many different shops as we made our way to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum.

      The Guggenheim is housed in what was formerly Peggy's home situated right on the Grand Canal. The home itself is incredibly beautiful, and the art collection is quite impressive. It is basically Peggy's own collection, so Brad described it as "all thriller, no filler." In the collection, we saw some great pieces by Jackson Pollock (an entire room in fact), Mark Rothko, Max Ernest, Alexander Calder, and Picasso. There were a lot of works by Abstract Expressionist artists, which is one of my favourite art movements. We also got admission to a Mark Tobey show as part of our visit.

      After checking out the art, it was time for lunch. We stopped in at Cantinone gli Schiavi for a local food called cicchetti, which are small pieces of bread with assorted toppings. We tried six different ones that included: octopus; truffle and egg; shrimp; salmon. We ate standing next to the bridge just outside the restaurant while drinking a spritz. Evan was less keen on the ciccheti and more keen about eating pizza, so we stopped at a small stand so he could get his fix.

      We arrived back to our apartment for a bit of down time and it suddenly began to pour! The temperature also dropped dramatically and there was a lot of lightning! Luckily we had packed our raincoats and umbrella, so we set off to walk to the Damien Hirst show.
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    • Day 12

      Venedig

      July 17, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Hier begann der zweite, und völlig anders geartete, Teil meiner Europareise. Eine Woche lang genossen meine Freundin Tameer aus Deutschland und ich das Dolce Vita Italiens in einem schicken Appartement im venezianischen Künstler- und Universitätsviertel.
      Wir wohnten links im zweiten Stock des weißen Hauses (erstes Bild).
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    • Day 12

      Heimreise

      October 13, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Frühes Frühstück, Aufbruch nach Norden, Schloss Elmau, Essen im Biergarten der Mühle von Ettal, Kurzbesuch der Basilika von Ettal. Damit verbunden war die Informationssuche über das Kloster. Dabei sind wir auf die Missbrauchsfälle im Internat des Klosters gestoßen. Heftig! In diesem Jahr wurde kein neuer Fünftklässler angemeldet. Das kann ich verstehen. Weiter über eine herrliche schmale Straße wieder an der Mühle vorbei. Plansee, etcRead more

    • Day 77

      Vista of Venice

      November 19, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

      Checked out and got a 2 hour train to Venice (train was with Italo - nicest ride we've had in terms of comfort, although scenery was average).

      Hotel for this part as we only have one full day here, and then it's a super early flight on Tuesday. Checked in to the hotel, receptionist was lovely. Somehow managed to get a free upgrade to a nice room with a canopy bed.

      Rested and did some planning and then got bus tickets for Tuesday. Then it was off to find some dinner as the light faded. Walked to a pasta place that was cheap and OK (mushroom tagliatelle good, tricolor amitriciana OK). Followed by a cup of gelato from Grom. Was good.

      Browsed some shops on way there and back. Also stopped for more pasta as wasn't quite full. This one was cuttlefish in black venetian sauce. An inky black sauce and really nice fish (could've been like reconstructed fish but tasted nice and vaguely squid-ey). Surprisingly good.

      Overall liking Venice so far - haven't seen much but canals and streets are cute. Bit of a smell occasionally though, and not looking forward to the heaps of tourists and high prices we'll no doubt find tomorrow... but should be fun!
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    • Day 9

      Schlemmen bis der Bauch platzt

      October 5, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Liebe geht ja bekanntlich durch den Magen. Das gilt für mich im Zusammenhang mit Venedig. Hier kann man an jeder Ecke schlemmen, bei einem kleinen Snack im Sonnenlicht einen Trink genießen und an der nächsten Kanalecke gleich weiter futtern. (Eigentlich haben wir viel mehr vertilgt aber ich eigne mich nicht zum Food-Blogger - die richtig leckeren Sachen waren verputzt, bevor ich daran denken konnte ein Bild zu machen.)Read more

    • Day 2

      Lost in Venice

      November 2, 2014 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      We almost made the mistake of getting on the boat that would have taken us to the boat via the airport, about a two-hour addition to our schedule. Such an option was not acceptable to us, because we needed to return to our boat by 2:30 pm in order to join the group that was to visit one of the Murano art glass factories on Giudecca Island.

      On the vaporetto I decided to go astern to photograph St. Mark’s Square from the water. There was a German family there with a father who acted as though he wanted to be the commandant of the whole world. Unlike his sons, he never acknowledged that I was even sitting in front of him. When I took their picture, he looked straight up, as though if he were not looking at me, then I could not see him.

      We returned to St. Marta’s, in view of the ship. The only problem was that we found a locked gate between us and our boat. We asked a policeman on a bicycle how to get back to the ship. He told us, in broken English, to get on the “People Mover,” and to get off at the first stop. This would lead us to the street we saw on the other side of the chain-link fence going to the River Countess. With some confusion and difficulty we made our way to the People Mover and found our way to the ticket machine and up one storey to the loading platform. After just a few seconds I saw that we passed over the road leading back to the ship, and continued to travel toward downtown Venice. The sense of helplessness was palpable. We got off at the next exit, and found that we were in the Piazza le Romana. Both Jim and I had maps. We charted a course back to the ship and started making our way south. Unfortunately, there were several places where the name of the street did not precisely line up with the street’s location. Betty and Glenda got worried, though Jim and I basically knew where we were, and were confident that eventually we would make it back to the ship. We wandered through some of the most beautiful neighborhoods in the city. Though I did not know it at the time, this walk through a less visited part of Venice would be one of the high points of the whole trip for me. When we saw the ship we hit another obstacle. We were separated from it by a chain link fence with a locked gate. So we had to backtrack several blocks, trying to remember exactly where the ship was until we hit a street that went without obstruction to the south. Finally we found one, and came out at the ship. We did manage to get back to the River Countess in time to go to the glassworks on Giudecca Island.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Sestière di Dorsoduro, Sestiere di Dorsoduro

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