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  • Dag 4

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    3 augusti 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri 08/03/2023
    This was the first day down hill path from the Pyrenees. The night before we had made our minds to spent another day to recover from the first brutal day however we soon realizing we were the very few staying behind, we decided to covered our packs and headed out under a soaking rain and 50 degrees temperature. We started walking down the hill through the forest with a nice terrain for fast walking, however that didn’t last long.
    One third of the way we stopped in the village of Espinal. The café attendant has just immigrated to Spain from Columbia SA, and this young man knew how to cook. We ordered a pasta Bayonese and it was delicious. There we meet a French family (Dad, 22 years old daughter and her boyfriend) that were laying camp nearby. They were so helpful to us that we picked up there food bill on our way out. One kilometer up the hill we heard someone calling and it was the french girl running towards us. She gave us a special handmade gift/pendant. We talked for a few minutes, took some pictures with her and continued up the hill until the next village. While resting flat in the middle of the road in this tiny village we were met by this friendly poodle dog. We continued walking nonstop for 4 more hours. Once we reached the village of Erro, the cliffs turned very sharp, and dangerously rocky, however in retrospect, there was nothing like the suicidal hill the day before.

    We reached Zubiri at 7:00pm and then started looking for a place to stay. We were so bitten up that we couldn’t even move one more step. After a shower, and breaking and desinfecting the blisters we wore our sandals and walked another half a kilometer to a restaurant to eat and back to our room to sleep. However we were so tired that we didn’t get to sleep until 3:00am.
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  • Dag 3

    From St Jean Pie de Port to Roncesvalles

    2 augusti 2023, Frankrike ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    From SJPP to Roncesvalle 08/02/2023
    The day started with 5 hours of sleep. We had breakfast at the Belaire, then pickup our Compostela passport, and received our first stamp. We then proceed down hill to the El Peregrine Shop were I bought my hiking poles. We wished we could have spent another day at SJPP however, we have a tight schedule and we could use a couple of days for recovery if needed later on.

    It was a beautiful sunny morning. We headed down the street through the port of of Notre Dame crossing the pinterest Nive river through la puerta de España. We the missed the first turn and walk about a kilometer before realizing no one was following us. We ask for directions using smoke signals and got a response back in French. Returned back to town and met the horrific hill the we have just laughed about. It was an attitude adjustment. And the fun began. I cannot even explain the views. We climb, climb and more climbing to the top of something the it is hard to explain however my 360 cámara captured some of those experiences and I will soon be publishing those videos.

    The climb was hard, and long (6 hours) and steady. From time to times we had a flat to make us believed that were at the top, but to our disappointment, there was another mountain to climb. We finally reached the cross ( you will now when you get there if you ever try this). I had some beautiful 360 videos with the herd of sheep, the horses and cows and the vultures flying over us, where I told the bird that I was not dead yet.

    The descend to Roncesvalles was good and manageabled until we reach the converging of Valcarlos route and the Napoleon’s route which we took. The Valcarlos route was the less challenging route but we didn’t come here for that but to conquer the Pyrenees. :0. At this point I had enough energy to role down the hill. We were in the middle of the clouds and the fog was very dense. We reach sharp left turn where the 2 caminos merged but by accident we took the turn they explicitly said not to take. It was the suicidal down hill 35-40 degrees 8 kilometers rocky down hill descend route where a few people has perished. Not even a kilometer down hill into it, my legs were shaking so hard I couldn’t stand any longer with my 18 pounds plus water weight on my back. We sat on a rock for 5 minutes to rest. I suggested to hide the bag and to come the next day for it. It was getting dark then my son Nick loaded my backpack on his back and his backpack in the front and carried them all the way down to Roncesvalles. I was done. He said we are 7 kilometers away, let’s finish this dad. We then passed the rocky section and continue through the dark forest. It was cold and it had began to rain. We drop packs and lay down to rest. Here comes the Hungarian and his 66 year old father and sat with us to rest. There wasn’t a wining medals at the end but a nice shower and a bed. We kept walking down hill for a few more kilometers until we reached Roncesvalles. I believed we were the last exhausted peregrinos for the night. In summary, this section of El Camino de Santiago is for the young and the young at heart that has trained and prepared for the brutal journey.
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  • Dag 2

    Arrived at SJPP

    1 augusti 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    St Jean Pie de Port 8/1/2023
    Arrived at SJPP around 7:05pm. It is a beautiful town along the Nive river and the French country side. During the commute, the taxi driver explained all about the closed community between the border towns in the Basque region. The town was packed with peregrines from all over the world. I have quickly realized to enable my 4x4 legs gear. There was little room for turning in the wrong direction or you would pay the steep hill price.

    We arrived to the Belaire albergue later than anticipated and dinner had already started. Our host Joseph, a Spaniard, introduced us to the group in 4 different languages (English, French, Italian and Spanish) to the 14 guests already at the table. Five minutes later the last couple arrived from California. The came via train from Paris. We all enjoyed a 4 course vegan meal and wine and retired to our respective rooms. The jet lag didn’t help so I decided to write at 3:30am local time. However, I didn’t post due to not having internet in France.
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  • Dag 2

    Arrived in Madrid

    1 augusti 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    We arrived in Madrid this morning with little sleep. Wow, the euro’s exchange rate is about 20% up charge. We ventured in an Uber ride to the train station in an attempt to get the early train to Pamplona but arrived 5 minutes too late. Well, we lost the fair but gained on the exchange rate near Atocha train station. So far braking even.. but behind schedule. We are calling ahead to the Albergue reservations in SJPP for late arrival. We may miss daylight..Läs mer

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