Kenya
Nairobi

Here you’ll find travel reports about Nairobi. Discover travel destinations in Kenya of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

47 travelers at this place:

  • Day177

    In Nairobi beherbergt uns die kleine, 27-Jahre junge, quirlige und sehr liebenswerte Gastgeberin „Jackline“ in ihrem Zuhause. Dieses hatten wir wegen der besonderen Lage direkt am Rande des Nairobi Nationalparks gewählt. Beim Frühstück oder vom Balkon aus können wir aus der Ferne schon die ersten Tiere wie Zebras, Strausse und Antilopen/Gazellen beobachten. Besser kann man doch gar nicht in den Tag starten. Bei ihr fühlen wir uns wirklich heimelig und bleiben länger als geplant. Es bereitet viel Freude uns mit ihr ganz unverblümt über Kenias Land und Leute, Politik und wirtschaftliche Situation, sowie ihre Familie, Beziehung, Ziele und ihr Leben als Zwillingsschwester auszutauschen. Doch am meisten geniesst Maggi einfach Girly Talk mit ihr auf der Couch. Ein Moment bleibt dabei besonders in Erinnerung: als wir über Frisuren sprachen und Maggi die HaarKUNST der hiesigen Frauen, die sie in den Strassen immer bestaunt, lobte, fasste Jackline Maggi ganz schüchtern und mit immer größer werdenden Augen ins Haar als hätte sie nie zuvor blonde, weiche Haare gespürt. Irgendwie ein „Bonding Moment“ zwischen den Mädels. 👯‍♀

    Gleich am Tag unserer Ankunft wagten wir uns - nach einem kurzen Jetlag Nickerchen - ins einheimische Getümmel und besuchten ein lokales Einkaufscenter. Touristen, die offensichtlich sofort Dollar Scheine in den Augen der Einheimischen 🤑auslösen, scheinen sich nicht häufig hierhin zu verirren. Denn als wir zum Essen einkehren möchten, werden wir plötzlich von 5 Kellnern gleichzeitig belagert, die sich gegenseitig übertönen während sie uns von ihrem eigenen Menü zu überzeugen versuchen. Dieser Überfall und das damit verbundene schlechte Gewissen sich für einen entscheiden und die anderen enttäuschen zu müssen, verschlägt uns in die Flucht. Wir essen später dennoch in einem typisch afrikanischen Lokal, wo nicht ganz so viel Trubel um uns gemacht wird.

    Kein Wort beschreibt die Millionenmetropole Nairobi besser als „GroßstadtDSCHUNGEL“!! Nirgends ging es bisher so chaotisch auf den Strassen zu wie hier. Es wird gehupt, geschrien, auf die Autos geklopft, Spuren nicht eingehalten, Sand der ungeteerten Strassen aufgewirbelt, man wird in die lokalen „Matatu“ Busse reingezogen, um darin dann mit Musik und Bass so zugedröhnt zu werden, als würde man grad zwischen 2 startenden Flugzeugen stehen. Kein anderer Touri scheint sich in die lokalen Busse zu verirren ausser uns (grundsätzlich sah man nur sehr wenige Fremde in dieser Großstadt). Egal um welche Uhrzeit wir auf den Matatu aufsprangen, wir entgingen immer knapp einem Hörsturz. 😅🙉

    Der Großstadtdschungel barg auch andere „Gefahren“, wie solche, die von den „Aasgeiern“ ausgingen - wie wir die Laufburschen der vielen Reiseveranstalter nannten, die uns in den chaotischen Strassen immer wieder auflauerten. Das schon auf eine erschreckende Art und Weise. Auf der Suche nach einem geeigneten 4x4 Geländewagen für unsere Self-Drive-Safari hatten wir einen dieser Laufburschen auf der Strasse angesprochen bzw. fing er uns vor einem Büro ab, das wir angesteuert hatten. Und plötzlich schien die ganze Stadt zu wissen, dass die 2 weissen Kartoffeln Interesse an einer Safari haben. Manchmal verliessen wir erst nach Stunden ein Restaurant, Geschäft oder Reisebüro und die selben Laufburschen standen am Ausgang, um uns wieder abzufangen. Das wurde schon echt gruselig. Jeden Tag. Sobald wir die Stadt betraten, schien es wie ein Lauffeuer umzugehen, dass das „Frischfleisch“ wieder da war. Auch in einer >3-Millionenstadt können 2 vermeintlich unscheinbare (weiße;) Personen SO sehr auffallen.

    Was uns sonst noch schmerzhaft auffiel, waren die vielen bettelnden Kinder zu jeder Zeit des Tages. Manchmal hatten sie sogar ihre Säuglingsgeschwister auf den Rücken geschnallt, um noch mehr Mitleid zu erzeugen. In den Parks hingen viele benommene/ narkotisierte Menschen ab. Arbeitslose lungerten hier den ganzen Tag herum. Wirklich sehr traurige und berührende Bilder von vielen Opfern eines schicksalhaften Lebens. Insgesamt keine allzu ansehnliche Stadt. Dennoch war diese, auf dieser Reise erste, Begegnung mit Afrika eine Erfahrung für sich.

    Zum Glück haben wir mit 4x4-Kenya.com letztendlich eine vertrauenswürdige Autovermietung gefunden. Unser Traum, Ostafrika auf eigene Faust mit einem 4x4 inkl. Zeltdach (!) zu bereisen, wurde mit unserem „Toyota Hilux“ Wirklichkeit. Wir tauschten uns noch ausgiebig mit unseren Vorgängern - die Deutsch-Polen Waldemar, Eva und Sohnemann aus’m Ruhrpott, die ihrer 85-jährigen Großmutter mit ihrer Safari einen Lebenstraum ermöglichten - aus. Diese haben uns noch ein paar wichtige Safari Überlebensweißheiten mit auf den Weg gegeben. Im Anschluss fehlten nur noch ein paar letzte Reparaturen am Auto inkl. der nötigen Notfall- und Camping-Ausstattung, bevor es dann heute nach 4 Tagen Nairobi endlich mit der Self-Drive-Safari losging. 🤪

    Ein kleines Maleure musste natürlich noch passieren: Da die Autovermietung am heutigen Tag der Schlüsselübergabe den kompletten Geldbetrag in Bar sehen wollte (die Geldübergabe fand auch wie im Hollywood Thriller in einer Seitenstrasse in einem Lieferwagen statt), 😅 liefen wir von einem zum nächsten Bankautomaten, um die Scheine in den maximal möglichen Auszahlungsmengen abzuheben. Ein Automat spuckte zwar zum Glück unsere Karte aus, aber dafür nicht den vollen gewünschten Betrag. Die Hälfte fehlte. 😨 Eine Bankmitarbeiterin drückte ein Auge zu und verzichtete auf einen wochenlangen Prozess, um die fehlende Summe nachzuvollziehen, vertraute uns einfach und zahlte die Differenz kulanter Weise aus. Irgendwie klappt‘s am Ende dann doch immer in Afrika. 😅 Als wir danach unsere Geldbezüge fortsetzten, wurde jedoch unsere Kreditkarte gesperrt, weil unsere Bank daheim nach den zig Abhebungen einen Betrugsfall vermutete, wie wir später erfuhren. So hatten wir von nun an für den Rest der Weltreise keinen Zugriff mehr auf unser Gemeinschaftskonto (die 2. Karte war ja bereits in Mexiko vom Automaten verschluckt worden). Shit happens! 💩 Aber auch das würden wir noch irgendwie auf den letzten Metern der Reise meistern. 😅 Anyway, Safari wir kommen! 🤪🚐🗺
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  • Day134

    Karen, Nairobi

    September 17, 2017 in Kenya

    We’ve spent a relaxing week with minimal driving or activities in this leafy suburb outside of Nairobi. We found an idyllic stone cottage where we were able cook our own meals, watch mindless TV (including John’s cricket (emphasis on the mindless- ha, ha)), read, sleep, clean up and organize all of our stuff so it fits into our small bags. Christy also got a haircut, mani/pedi, and we’ve both enjoyed drinking cold, bubbly water and wine. We were also lucky enough to catch up with Vishal and Sita, who Christy knew from Campbells/Wharton/Philly, and enjoy a wonderful lunch getting the scoop on what life is like here compared to the US and other places.
    Since this part of our trip is winding down and because the Land Rover has been the third character in our trip these past 5 months, we need to take a moment to discuss its’ role in our recent adventures.
    Nicknamed Tokoloshe (a mythical and mischievous bush elf in South African folklore), we’ve written many things about this LR as we’ve been travelling. It’s featured so often in our posts because it’s been our home - functioning not only as our transport, but also as our bedroom, kitchen, and living room. We’ve probably spent 95% of our time, since first getting into the front seat in Johannesburg last May, within just a few yards of the LR. It was very rare for it to be out of our sight at any time during this entire part of the trip. We also have written several times about repairs we’ve had to do along the way and several days spent in mechanic’s yards getting things fixed. However, we’ve put this vehicle through a LOT. We’ve driven almost 20,000 kilometers (about 12,000 miles) through 9 countries over the last few months in all kinds of weather and road conditions. We’ve been through hot, dusty deserts, over steep and twisty mountain passes. We’ve driven through rivers, mud, deep, endless sand and long stretches of tarmac for hours on end. We’ve inadvertently hit multiple potholes at speed and driven over roads made up of endless rocks and corrugations so wide and deep that we started a collection of all of the small pieces of the LR that had been shaken loose during the day and we tried to return each piece to its proper place, often with the help of some duct tape.
    With all of the bad roads we’ve driven, it’s a miracle that we haven’t experienced any major tire issues – just a few unlucky flats early in the trip. We also fed the poor thing some contaminated fuel, but it still did not die or leave us stranded.
    We lost count of how many times we were stopped at police and military checkpoints, but are proud we only picked up one ticket and never paid any bribes. We are especially thankful we did not collide with any vehicles, goats, sheep, cows, donkeys, and - most importantly – hit any humans. With all this torture, the LR still started every morning, without hesitation. Tokoloshe has also been a magnet, attracting people wherever we stop and enabling us meet so many friendly, funny, helpful, generous and interesting locals along the way. So, yes, we are happy not to be driving or camping anymore (although we will miss the experience of camping wild with all the animals), but are thankful to Tokoloshe for enabling us to experience so many great adventures.
    It was with mixed emotions that we said goodbye to Tokoloshe as Jennifer & Gerrit (the Dutch couple we met in Zambia) picked it up and began their 8-day drive back to Johannesburg.
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  • Day1

    Arrive in Africa

    June 29, 2017 in Kenya

    After a long journey from Australia, finally arrived in Kenya - the wait for immigration took over 1.5 hours and we were the last to go through (due to some staff mis-direction!).
    Was collected by Smiley, the happiest driver we've met yet! Staying at Karen Camp for the night before heading out tomorrow. Met some of the guys we will be travelling with and shared a beer.
    First sight of our bright yellow truck that will be our home for the next few months.Read more

  • Day16

    Wildebeest Eco Camp

    June 24, 2017 in Kenya

    We arrived at Wilderbeest Eco Camp at about 10:00am, we had to remove everything off of the bus as they were taking it to get it cleaned because tomorrow a new group starts (well we lose some and gain some) for the next part of the trip.

    Once we had set up our tents we began doing our washing, Adam set up an elaborate washing line for everyone and then we began 'day drinking' while we snacked on chips and dips!

    It has been an awesome day, as stated before this camp site is really nice and has good wifi so I even got the chance to call mum and dad.
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  • Day2

    Wildebeest Eco Camp

    June 10, 2017 in Kenya

    I made it alive! The drive was scary but somehow, even in that crazy traffic we made it alive to our accommodation for the night. Our accommodation is what they call 'dormitories' but in reality they are the cutest tents that have four bunk beds inside.

    First up we had what they call a 'pre-departure meeting' where we met our tour manager, driver, cook and other people on the tour. There is only one couple that is doing the complete fifty-seven day tour from Nairobi to Cape Town, the rest are doing a shortened version of our tour, there will also be several people joining us throughout the tour.

    Once we finished the pre-departure meeting it was a little bit of a rush to the showers, I smelt so bad it wasn't funny! twenty-four hours flying does that, those clothes almost need to be thrown out haha.

    It is now 7:00pm and I am showered, I have re-packed my bag and I made the mistake of laying down (it just feels so good) that I am skipping dinner and staying in bed, catching up on some much needed sleep.
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  • Day3

    Made it to Nairobi

    July 30, 2017 in Kenya

    All a bit worse for wear after 18 hours of travelling. Early morning in Zurich was nice - you could see the snow capped mountains. Emily fits very nicely in an economy seat - benefits of being 5ft 2". We had to hand over $50 each for our Kenyan tourist - we will do that again when we get to Tanzania. So far the highlight was seeing wild roaming zebras by the road just outside the airport like you might expect stray dogs in another country.
    Early night and then a pick up at 7am to start the safari!
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  • Day36

    Day 33 - Giraffe Sanctuary

    May 14, 2017 in Kenya

    It was neat to see the giraffes up close and personal. At the sanctuary they give you little pellets to feed the giraffes. You are up a story and they come to the railing at about your head height. They are treats for them, like candy. By holding the pellets in your lips you can get the giraffes to kiss you when they take the treat. Not a spitless experience by any means. However, their saliva is free of germs. The way it was explained was that they often get pricked by the thorns of the acacia trees - their favourite food. The saliva is what heals the wounds inside their mouths, so it has to be disinfecting. There are signs around to watch out for head butts - if you are close to them and aren't offering them food, they will swat you in the side of the head with their head to tell you they want more food. Tom got one while waiting for Sherry to take a photo.Read more

  • Day36

    When we got into Nairobi Saturday night I had quite a headache that was still with me in the morning. Thought I would be smart and drink a little coffee to open up the blood vessels to work along with the ibuprofen. I had forgotten how awful too much caffeine feels - in fact that feeling is what made me switch to decaf about 13 years ago. The feeling hit while we were on the way to the giraffe sanctuary. It was so awful I thought I might have a real problem so we stopped off at a mall to see if we could find a clinic to get checked out. Tom had had a similar feeling awhile ago when his blood pressure spiked for no really good reason.

    We found a clinic, paid $3.50 to get my blood pressure checked. It was quite high, but it was back to normal in 10 minutes when the nurse checked it again. I also drank a cup of hibiscus tea (Jamaica for our Mexican friends) which works really well to bring the bp down.

    We headed off to see the giraffes a little late, but gradually feeling much, much better. Almost normal a couple of hours later.

    On the way home we stopped to have a snack at a place that makes bronze sculptures - there is a beautiful park like restaurant and it was very peaceful.

    Next stop was at a sister's place. She is an artist (Daphne Butler) who does some beautiful work. We had a little visit and took a look at what she had for sale. She has some original oils, some limited prints on canvas and some poster prints. Mostly of African wildlife. In fact, there is some of her African art hanging in the Bethel - we had one above the head of our bed (unsigned, of course). She has recently been hired exclusively to paint for a Chinese businessman. He gives her more work than he can handle painting whatever he wants her to paint - the current projects were copies of long gone classical artists (subjects like a woman in a robe holding an urn). The arrangement is that she paints only for him and she retains all the copyrights. That way she can make and sell prints. One day it would be nice to get one of her canvas prints but for now our budget allowed for some posters.

    Now on to the Habesha restaurant for an Ethiopian dinner. They arrange the different meets and vegetables over a large pancake of their bread on a large platter. (Injera is an East African sourdough-risen flatbread with a unique, slightly spongy texture. Traditionally made out of teff flour, it is a national dish in Ethiopia and Eritrea). All eaten with the fingers. We also tried their traditional honey wine which was sweetish and a bit lemony.

    Home after dinner, shared a glass of wine and some visiting before bed.
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  • Day37

    We were up, dressed and in the Bethel dining room this morning before 7. It was nice to sit through a morning worship program and see how a large portion of our brothers and sisters live throughout the world.

    We changed and packed our suitcases and headed for the elephants. It was a little difficult to leave Bethel as Tom and Sherry kept coming across friends from their years there to visit with. However, out we got and we found traffic to be not terrible so we made it to the sanctuary on time. They only allow visitors between 11 and 12. They bring them out in two groups broken into smaller groups of about 4. The come out, get their bottle of milk and then are let to play for half an hour. The area is roped off and the spectators line up around the roped off area. The handlers make sure they move the elephants around the area so that everyone gets a closeup look and a little pet (dirty from rolling in the mud; sparse, stiff hair; roughish skin). The younger ones come first (12 months to 2 years old) and the older 3 year olds come out after they leave. They are still nursing, but their play is much more rambunctious and fun to watch.

    It's all over in an hour, but you feel your $5 is well worth the experience.

    We went for lunch to a lovely restaurant on the estate they used to film Out of Africa. I believe where we ate was the stable area. Again, another beautiful garden restaurant. Prices were more "out-of-Africa" prices, but still affordable.

    Tom and Sherry then dropped us off at the airport and here we sit until our flight for Zurich and then on to Barcelona.
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  • Day70

    Still Nairobi.

    March 11, 2016 in Kenya

    Traffic noise from the room wasn't enough to stop me from sleeping awesome, thank you! Breakfast is included with our room, and the best part about that is not having to look for breakfast in the morning! It always takes us a while to find anything open in the morning and serving food. Today, I just have to go down a set of stairs. Strenuous!

    It took us around 2.5 hours to find and book our safari to the Masai Mara. We went with Baboon Budget Safari, it was the first place we stumbled upon, we got a great impression from Charles, the man who book it with us, and it was the best price. And by best price, I mean it's the same price and same tour concept offered everywhere, but they were willing to negotiate the price because they already had a group of 3 going, so we would just be tagging along with this group. There's tour agencies around every corner, and on top of them all, there's touts. The touts were so incredibly annoying. Granted we were the only white people we saw all morning, and the only touristy looking ones I saw all day! We would tell them to leave us alone, and they followed from a few feet behind, then when we would come out of any building or establishment they would pop back up asking we go have a look at their offices. We kept seeing the same 4 guys constantly that we became more direct; leave us alone, stop following us, we don't need your help... Nothing worked. One guy actually responded "be polite please" after we asked him to leave us for the 10th time... Really? Polite? In Canada, I could have you charged with harassment, but apparently I have to be polite.

    By the time the tour was settled, it was 1230 ish, so we set out for the National Museum. Beautiful day, sunny but not crazy warm... Downtown has a mix of high rises and interesting architecture. Very metropolitan. Obviously very different from any other big city in Kenya. It is huge, yes, and there's tons of districts... But all the districts make sense when walking them, and we've manage to easily find our way around. It's hasn't felt overwhelmingly big. I was more lost in Kigali, Rwanda, then I am here.

    Jack did the museum while I grabbed a drink and read my book in the shade of the museum grounds. I've noticed that I really don't find too much enjoyment in reading info cards and looking at glass displays of old pottery... I just don't like museums. I had myself a wonderfully peaceful afternoon, and Jack told me all about the museum, excited at what she had read. That was of course after she flipped out of excitement after seeing a T-rex statue... The women's love for T-rex, or any creature for that matter, is hilarious. She warned me that she might cry when she sees a lion. I already figured she would.

    This is where my day took a not so good turn. But for honesty and transparency's sake, here goes:
    It was 5pm by the time we were done with the museum grounds. I had the list of things we needed to do before heading back to the room in my mind and started getting a little anxious. I had a backpack with me to carry our guide book and water for the day, and knew that it would attract attention. I had expressed wanting to be back at the hotel before dark to at least ditch the bag and drop off extra cash. We stopped to have a quick diner on our way back, we picked a place we knew would be quick so we could keep going. We stopped at the atm since we had a balance to pay for the safari tomorrow morning. We still have to stop at a pharmacy and grocery store on the way home, and it's now 545pm. Sun goes down around 630pm, total darkness at 7pm. My anxiety is rising.

    My anxiety is amplified when I don't have a sense of direction. I mapped out our way home with my phone map, but Jack requested I trust her directions, as she gets a sense of satisfaction in knowing her way around. At this time, my anxiety was controlled, or so we both thought, so why not just follow her. There's more and more people walking the streets, assuming because they're all finishing their work day. I have to make my way around people and buses and cars to make my way home. People keep brushing up against me, bumping into my shoulders. Knowing I was carrying a lot of money due to our atm stop, and a bright red bag, and you know, I'm white, my anxiety kept roaring at me. I just wanted to get home.

    We finally got to our "sub-neighbourhood", Jack said we were close to home and we're standing next to a Tuskys (grocery store). At this point, Jack went a different way then what I had mapped out, so I didn't recognize myself at all. I'm lost. And it's 610pm. I gave Jack a 10 minute limit to get what we needed (she gets distracted and read all the labels and over thinks which cookies to get). Getting in Tuskys, it's just clothing, the food section was a block down the street, apparently away from our hotel. For some reason, going into a store that I thought I would recognize (since it's in every city), and still feeling entirely lost, increased my anxiety x1000. Jack asked if I was OK going to the other, and I acted tough and said yes, even though I wasn't sure if I wanted to cry or hide in a corner somewhere. We walked to the other store. Again, it was different. I didn't recognize the layout. The lineups at the cash were long. There's tons of people, I had to almost push my way through them. Anxiety x100000. I looked at Jack and said, one for word, "I'm overwhelmed, I want to go home". I think she could read in my eyes that I wasn't doing well. She didn't argue, didn't try to calm me, she just said OK and asked if I wanted to map it out with my phone or trust her. My phone GPS wasn't reading, time ticking away, it's 620pm, so I went with trust. It took us 5 minutes to make it home. I didn't stop anywhere along the way, I held back whatever confusing emotions that were coming over me... Once in the hotel I had to take a few breaths once passed the front gate, but knew that I needed to be alone somewhere safe asap. Jack saw it again I guess because as I rushed upstairs to the room, she rushed to open the door ahead of me and I burst into tears getting into the room.

    Even now, I can't fully explain what happened. I knew I still had about 20 minutes of daylight. I knew there were enough people around to keep me safe. I just couldn't control my emotions, I got incredibly overwhelmed and needed to get out of the crowds but couldn't do so without walking through them. It was irrational and inexplicable. Anxieties is a bitch. I've never had it be as highly uncomfortable and uncontrollable as today. It was rough. And I'm so incredibly thankful Jack was there and able to read what I needed.

    A few slow, easy breaths... A few tissues... A big hug... And I was back to myself. Believe it or not, I decided to go back out there! No way Nairobi was going to win over me! I dropped the bag, dropped the money, just kept enough for groceries and pharmacy, and off we went. We actually got what we needed at the pharmacy and made it back to Tuskys before dark! That just meant one way, 5 minutes, of walking in the dark, in busy enough streets to have power in numbers. I did good! And before any of you avid readers get too worried for me, the pharmacy is because I developed a ridiculously itchy rash on my neck and it's driving me crazy! So I got ointment. That is all.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Nairobi, Nairobi Province

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