Spain to Germany

February - April 2023
One year ago today I returned home to Chicago after spending 5 epic weeks motorcycling south to Tierra del Fuego, SA.
Tomorrow I board a flight to Malaga, Spain. I will spend all of March in Marbella exploring the spectacular Spanish Costa del Sol.
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  • 34footprints
  • 4countries
  • 37days
  • 360photos
  • 4videos
  • 15.0kmiles
  • 12.8kmiles
  • Day 14

    Old Marbella. Little Streets Everywhere.

    March 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Early Sunday morning walk. My place was cleaned today so decided to get out of the way and get lost in the Old City. Hardly anyone out. I donned the headpiece Brian Eno vibrating my temples as I wandered into the maze of brick and stone streets . Up and down. Across and to the other side. Down steps to the right. Past a religious grotto and to the left. Left, right, back or forward. Which way?

    Totataly lost and a bit disoriented. Recalling a large maze on the Malecon the seafront drive in Havana that my aunt would take me to as a child. Unnerving as I was shorter than thus unable to see over the wall thinking I would never be able to find the exit. I’m lost forever! But suddenly I was out or back where I had begun. My aunt waving at me. "Can I go again I would ask?” Always seeking the thrill of the unknown. She never tired alway letting me go again and again. Sweet dreams.

    Old Marbella is like that but of course now as an adult I know I will find my way out.
    But what if I didn’t? No when you think that you find yourself going down one tiny alley and you are back in the same location. And that’s without a Tardis or Transporter Room.

    I found several nice looking little hotels scattered about. Peeking through the entrance doors and windows all looked very well restored and modernized. It would make for a romantic getaway for newlyweds or a couple looking for a refresh.

    There are also multiple little restaurants in this area one them with Michelin stars. Many are not near main Plaza de las Naranjas which is a beautiful place in the center of town but draws a lot of tourists.

    I sat on a park bench the rays of the Spanish morning sun warming my cheeks while enjoying the solitude. But after a short while from one of those little alleys a group Belgian, or Swiss or Danes appeared. Speaking loudly all dressed in similar colored shirts and shorts a sigil on the breast, sneakers on their feet. It turned out it was a teamn building exercise. How cool! Perfect site. It would be fun in this maze of streets. My reverie broken I had to leave.
    There is a city in Cuba whose streets are an intricate maze that only locals know how to navigate. Over the years it was intentiaonlly designed as such to catch and thwart marauders pirates wwho came up river to loot. But once the looting and probably too much rum they could not find they way bak to their waiting boats.
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  • Day 14

    A Sunday Afternoon Tradition

    March 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Sunday afternoon 1:30 I waited for my new friends Brian and Lidia to pick me. They had invited me to join them for lunch. Today we were going to their favorite beachside place called La Perla Blanca.
    It would also be my chance once again to ride in the luxurious interior of the metallic brown Jaguar saloon. I was thinking I would wave at passerbys as the Queen of England
    used to do. She was in a Land Rover. But no matter I felt very royal in the Jaguar.
    Leaning against my building looking down at my iPhone reading the latest news from the States I heard a car horn. I looked up and saw Brian and Lidia in a “Oh no” compact Peugeot! Lidia go out we greeted each other with a kiss on either cheek and said I could sit in front. It was too cramped for my long legs in the back. Well there was to be no queen waving (hand held straight up rotating side to side) to the denizens of Marbella today. And I had practiced all week!
    I got in the front and off we went. Brian said that he was driving this car as it was easier to park at the beach. I get it. I am as picky about which car to drive depending on were I am going. No way would I ever park the titanium silver M3 in a Marianos parking lot. Not even up in scale Whole Foods.
    La Perla had quite an extensive menu. For starters we opted for calamari rings and shrimp atop of avocado slices smothered in a delicate creamy sauce. Fo the main entree it was to be Casserole Rice with Red King Prawns. This seafood dish is similar to paella but soupier in consistency.
    We devoured it. And then retired to the patio of their expansive home in Marbella. There Brian told many of his finest stories as the captain of British Airways Concord. Concord pilots, only 22 of them, as part of the boarding protocol were required to greet all passengers many of whom he befriended including Elton John, the Rat Pack, and other celebrities.
    It was now about 6 pm and the idea came up again of getting some food. I wasn’t really hungry but what the hell why not. It was to be Indian curries I having mentioned that with as many British expats in Marbella there surely must be good Indian restaurants. And yes indeed I was right. And we took the Jag!
    The Restaurant Bombay to Goa was the destination. Brian having Indian ancestry did the ordering but I opted for the Vindaloo, he for the Bindi and Lidia a mild lamb rogan josh. Plus Pilau rice and nam bread filled with coconut.
    The restaurant is located in La Cala de Mijas an expat community town. Elegant and well maintained shopping areas. Instead of waiting for the order we drove down the coastal road to the town of Fuengirola. It would be my chance of doing the wave.
    In Fuengirola inching along the busy seafront I had the chance. At a stop light a passerby was gazing at the car. He saw me in back. My hand ready. But I froze as all I could do was break a weak smile. Cowardly royal that was!
    Fuengirola is the last coastal town before Malaga. Returning back to pick up our order we took highway A-340 west. The order was ready and before long I was back in my apartment savoring my spicy Chicken Vindaloo in front of the TV.
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  • Day 17

    A Night of Flamenco

    March 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    Hello FindPenguinites! I am here at my very small keyboard my iPhone with a new post. I had not written as Monday there was little to convey and Tuesday a Chicago friend arrived for a short visit.
    Wednesday I was up early for my personal training workout. My trainer keeps pushing m limits with higher intensity workouts. However, he does not dare make me do burpees. Later this morning Mar the condo manager was to bring mybtrain ticket she had printed for my trip to Seville. She is so sweet. She also brought small round custard filled pastries baked this time of year in celebration of Easter.
    After she left we took public transit to the Sixt branch to pick up the rental car. I was expecting an Audi A3 we’re offered a BMW X2 but drove away in a new Peugeot 3008 SUV. Nice vehicle except for the numb steering response. Otherwise functional.
    It was 1:30 for our drive NE to the City of Granada A hour and a half trip. Great driving on the autopista across mountain tops and through some long tunnels. Scenery was majestic with the snow capped Sierra Nevada mountains in the distance framed by the bluest of sky. The surrounding hills and slopes dressed with orchards of olive trees.
    I had a reservations at the Alhambra Palace Hotel located at the foot of the El Alhambra historic site.
    At 6:30 in evening we took a long downhill walk into the Albaicin area of the city to see a flamenco show. The Albaicin is the old Jewish quarter of Granada.
    I have seen flamenco on previous trips always enjoying them. The most innovative was the Dracula story by a touring flamenco troupe in Miami Beach. This show like the others was filled energy and emotion. The performers especially the woman dancer conveyed such great feeling. Her dark eyes piercing into ours as we sat spellbound by her movements, the communicative strength of her heeled dance shoes striking the wooden floor with force. Her arms waving around her sculpted face while her fingers snapped with the rhythm of the dance.
    Then there was the singer/poet/storyteller with a mane of peppery curly locks singing with a deep voice whose words faded in memories of the past. These words s string of mellifluous beads reverberating through the subterranean vault that my Apple Watch warned me of dangerous high decibels. Well having hundreds of rock concerts it didn’t concern me.
    I was lucky to understand what he sang. One song of everyday life about his daughter and he sailing on a paper ship to build a mountain home for them, his guitar and dog. Some songs sad tales while other songs about friendship, brotherhood and God. All these songs carrying the gypsy culture from which they arose. Touching, warm, beautiful but with the force of a wandering people.
    There was also the masterful guitarist who working the string retelling an obvious story. It too held the same emotional impact as the singer and dancers. And lastly the male dancer with strength in body language who like the woman could whirl in a new direction in keeping with the story, the clapping, and rhythm of the guitar.
    The show lasted an hour . The tiny vault filled with applause as the performers bowed and exited the stage.
    We were energized but now faced the steep uphill climb to the hotel.
    It was cold and I was wearing a short sleeve polo nearly shivering in the 50 degree evening temperature. But bounded by towering evergreens and two channels of running water we climbed. The rushing rivulets induced a meditative state that temporarily encapsulated me against the cold brushing my bare arms.
    Tomorrow the tour of El Alhambra almost 20 years to the day I first visited Granada.
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  • Day 18

    El Alhambra, Granada

    March 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    A three hour private tour of the Alhambra, Nasrid Palaces and Generalife. Exquisite UNESCO World Heritage site. Home to the Muslim rulers of the Iberian peninsula. Last stronghold before the Catholic King and QueenFerdinand and Isabella regained control of Spain. Isabella from Castile and Ferdinand from Aragon the first monarchs who consolidated power to defeat the Muslims.
    The site is impressive. But once inside the throne room of the Nasrid kings (Muslim) the sweep of history overwhelms, knowing that this very room is where Ferdinand and Isabella greeted Columbus financing his voyages to the New World.
    I must emphasize to all that a visit to this classic, historic city is a must.
    We then checked out of the hotel finding a restaurant with an outdoor terrace across from the Alhambra to have lunch. Sitting beneath a canopy of fragrant citrus trees for a relaxed lunch. Ordering albóndigas caseras con patatas and solomillo a la parrilla a welcomed respite in the warming midday air before embarking on the drive west to Cordoba.
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  • Day 18

    Evening in Córdoba

    March 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    The highway to Córdoba once again took us through sloping hillsides speckled with olive trees. Undulating and twisting through green valleys and rocky outcroppings. It was a two hour drive from Granada. I wonder how long it took the king’s caravan to travel these 130 miles? Well armored and protected royal caravan passing through these valleys a perfect target from marauding peasants. A surprise ambush. Now 800 years later traveling across this landscape the Peugeot’s electronic sensors warning me of my speed and upcoming radar cameras. Buzzing loudly snd incessantly as the vehicle enters these invisible ambushes. No longer mortal combat or blood stained garments today’s travelers succumb a different ambush. The type that takes you breadth away and you question when the credit card statement arrives declaring the speeding fine.
    Arriving at the apartments location in Córdoba a man in a utility uniform approached the car as I was attempting to park. He signaled with a wave to stop. Gear pressed into Park I activated my window down.
    The man clean cut, blue eyes, trimmed beard called out my name, “Néstor?” “ then Soy Nícolas.”
    I greeted him. What a surprise. He was just off work and knew I was arriving around 3:30. His car was parked on this street offering me his space instead of the reserved indoor garage. He emphasized that it was a very safe neighborhood although it’s appearance screamed working class. Of course I said. It’s a rental car so I don’t care where I park it.
    His wife was in their waiting Peugeot same model as the one I was driving and pulled out of the spot. Gear selector in reverse with a perfect turn of the steering “wheel” (its rectangular) I eased the 3008 in one perfect motion. The tires merely a few inches from the curb.
    Damn I’m a good driver!
    Got out grabbed my back pack the other bag and walked across the street where Nicolas was waiting.
    He was a chatty most friendly guy covering the dos&donts of the rental apartment especially the No Fumar restriction. Crossing another narrow street his wife leaned out of their car’s window saying hello. Pretty lady, welcoming smile.
    Nicolas paused to point to the grocery store and the direction of the Mezquita.
    He noticed my car lights had not yet turned off so I again press the lock on the key fob to no effect. Oh well, let’s got up to the unit finding it newly remodeled, small, clean and comfortable.
    We settled. Planned a trip to the grocery stored and when ready to go I realized I had left my wallet in the car. Grabbed the keys and down we went. I saw that the car’s parking lights were still illuminated. Weird.
    As I approached I heard the quiet murmur of the engine. I had left the car running! Forgetting to push and briefly hold the Start/Stop button. Dumb! Glad I left my wallet in it as it may have run all night or driven off without us.
    That evening around 7 we decided to go explore the old city and have dinner. Sacrilegious of course since restaurants don’t open until 8. But one was open and an early dinner was what we hoped for. But what a mistake. No Spaniards eating here just tourists like us. And of course the worse, most insipid meal served in this ancient now modern day Andalusian restaurant!
    However, walking back we stopped for a sorbet that was simply delicious!
    Home to make yesterdays Penguin entry and to bed.
    Quick note. Cordoba was a major Roman city dating back to 200BC when the bridge was first built across the Guadalquivir River then called the Baetis. It was a major transportation center through its history well into the 18th when the river who’s mouth is at the Atlantic Ocean filled with silt ending its rein as one of Spain’s main rivers. It still carries water from the Sierra but is mostly a natural environment for a diverse flora and fauna.
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  • Day 19

    The Mezquita and Cathedral

    March 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Awoke this morning to a brisk drizzly day. After a couple of cups of coffee headed out across the Roman Bridge to the Mezquita. The Great Mosque of Córdoba. Construction begun in the year 785. An expansive mosque the largest in the Islamic world that took 200 years to complete. The structure has 850 columns supporting its roof. It is so big that in the 16th century a Cathedral was constructed in its center. Scattered throughout were Christian iconography, statuary, altars, small chapels, and a room with large silver reliquaries.
    Overall quite impressive. But it failed to inspire me. However, the exterior protective walls were massive denoting a powerful force within.
    On the road again to the last stop of the week the mountain town of Ronda. But first a stop at a bakery shop buying three pasteles for the road. One each chicken, 5 cheese and chocolate. Now these were inspiring.
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  • Day 19

    Ronda, a mountain hamlet

    March 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    Surrounded by a sea of mountains and green rolling valleys Ronda sits atop a crest famous for its white washed buildings and the bridge that connects the northern and southern sides of town. The New Bridge of Ronda was proposed by King Felipe V in 1735 to improve upon an earlier 16th century bridge further upstream. The bridge which spans the Tajo Gorge spans 98 meters, more than 300 feet. The gorge itself cut by the Guadalquivir River is 100 meters deep.
    Just below the span there exists a prison no longer utilized that had many a prisoner falling to their deaths. This bridge was an engineering marvel in the 18th century and is now supporting the growing city of Ronda and the ever increasing number of annual visitors.
    The AirB&B that I rented for the night was right on the mountains high cliff providing with unobstructed spectacular views of the valley and mountain peaks. The community not only is dependent on tourism but also on the farmlands surrounding the river and valleys framing the gorge. It was a beautiful day when we arrived but later that evening it was jackets as the temps at this evaluation had dropped into the low 50s.
    Friday was our return home to Marbella. But first we took a short walking tour of the town in search of breakfast. What we found was a a small but lively cafe making fresh churros. We sat down ordered two cafe con leches. I had my usual plain croissant and Doug ordered a grilled ham and cheese sandwich. But we also order one churro to split which came to the table warm and crispy.
    About two blocks away was the public car park. In between was the city church which we entered and as is my usual habit made an offering., 4 candles. The church was not ornate simply a house of worship for the community. But its lovely exterior was welcoming. Behind and the side was the convent with a small store selling baked goods made by the Carmelite nuns. We stopped in to buy some of their pastries but it was closed until after Mass had concluded later that morning. Oh well, Sisters some other time.
    Finally in the car, the GPS directing us we were on a road headed south towards Marbella. Like all sinewy mountain roads this one was traversed by many, many motorcycles mostly tourers but also crotch rockets. I would have enjoyed being on two wheels. This was prime motorcycle heaven.
    Marbella is only 30 miles from Ronda but takes about an hour travel time because these mountains prevent any high speed driving. We got into Marbella found a Shell station in Puerto Banus and returned the Peugeot to the Sixt agency. This road trip was easy, fun and educational giving a deeper appreciation of Spanish culture and the long history of the Iberian peninsula, Visigoths, Romans, Moors, Christian. Plus seeing three historic Andulusian cities.
    It was also nice to have my good friend pay me a visit and join me on this three city tour. One never really gets accustomed to traveling solo at least not fully so its was nice having a companion to share the sites and to discuss the experiences.
    Next week will be my last trip here in Spain. Three nights in Seville. However, I will not be be driving instead I will travel by high speed train. Malaga to Sevilla is typical a 4 plus hour drive. This train does it in two. Should be an exciting ride.
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  • Day 21

    Two Mighty Land Masses

    March 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Sunday afternoon under a clear, very blue sky and sea as gulls flew overhead their calls carried through the warm air I stopped to gaze at the horizon. In the distance visible to my eyes this sunny day were two sibling continents. Continents which are slowly inching towards reunification. Today their distance allows the sea to join the ocean beyond. In some distant future this great sea witness to history will become land locked.
    This is the Strait of Gibraltar.
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  • Day 23

    En Route to Sevilla

    March 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Twelve thirty pm Tuesday afternoon. I am at the Marbella Bus station waiting for the 1 pm to Malaga. I took the city bus here having loaded money onto the fare card when I arrived earlier this month. There are two fare cards at the apartment for renters use. It’s a nice touch by Mar the owner.
    Fare cards can be loaded directly on the city buses. I would have walked yo the station as it’s only a mile. But my trainer kicked my butt again today. And what the hell the walk to the station is uphill!
    From Malaga bus station it’s a short walk to the train station.
    This will be my last trip out of Marbella. I have 9 days to go in this friendly city. And it has been a relaxing few weeks. Weather exquisite. People are super friendly including strangers. Just this morning window washers in the building lobby greeted me. Oh and my Spanish excellent with a few additional words added to my vocabulary.
    Marbella has also been a good base from where to travel to other destinations. But now I realize that beyond the beaches, shopping and restaurants it doesn’t have much else to offer. Therefore, this intercity bus to Malaga or other destinations is essential. There are no trains here.
    My original intent was to stay in Malaga but couldn’t find an AirB&B to my liking. As with all my travels I learn to adapt and make the best of it.
    Now at the Malaga María Zambrano Train station with a two and a half hour wait until the Seville bound train departs.
    The station is modern, clean, and spacious. It is connected to a shopping mall filled with stores and eateries. This mall is no different from any other nondescript American mall. It could be placed anywhere, Kansas City or Pasadena.
    Luckily I’ve found a quiet table between Burger King, Popeyes Louisiana Kitchen and KFC. A strong American presence that overtakes the other eateries.
    I stay away from the fast food chains back home and more so here.
    Instead I opted for a cafe con leche and a palmira or elephant ears. Delicious with coffee. Once in Sevilla this evening I’ll find a tapas place before settling for the night.
    Tomorrow a tour of the Sevilla Cathedral, Alcázar and La Giralda.
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  • Day 23

    When Google Maps is Invaluable

    March 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The train’s punctual arrival into Sevilla was welcoming. It entered the station at 6:25 pm. Along the way it made a few stops letting passengers off while new travelers boarded. The last stop was Cordoba. During the transit I kept my iPhone off due to a diminished battery with no outlets on the train! Heresy! My iPhone was vital as it had to get me to the rental B&B in the historic city center about a 1.5 miles distant from the station b
    While waiting to disembark I switched on the phone. Pulling up google maps and the saved address as I stepped on the platform. Now ensued my hurried pace to complete this trek before the phone would go dark. In that case without a charged phone I would have way to contact the host, follow directions to the address or get into the building.
    Adventures come in all sizes. Some planned others surprises. Both satisfy the thrill of travel. Live on the edge but disallow fear to overtake rational thinking. Focus and relegate the the mind’s doubting voice to the rear. Successful mission is paramount.
    As I walked through wide boulevards busy with motos, cars and stand up scooters the architecture slowly changed. Just as suddenly beyond one corner as the traffic disappeared I entered old Sevilla. Another place. A labyrinth of narrow cobblestone streets with nary a sidewalk now 1000 years old.
    Marbella was a maze. Sevilla is a another dimension. A 5000 piece puzzle.
    Carefully I listened to Google directions while at the same time avoiding a scooter crossing my path or noiselessly approaching from behind. Stepping into the tiny streets looking left and right.
    In Spain, street names are up on the sides of buildings. So it is important to see those as Google’s attempt at Spanish is subpar.
    I noted battery life quickly depleting and still many meters to go. Will I make it? I had to view the map knowing that it would draw critical power.
    This race to the finish line or battery was the use of direction but also calling a phone number the only was to buzz the entry door. Medieval city, modern convenience. Sixty meters to go. I’m going to make it? Yes I did!
    Now time for tapas.
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