Portugal
Maia

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    • Hari 21

      Von Porto nach Labruge

      7 Mei, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      Auch Kate war nach Porto gefahren und so verabredeten wir uns f.heute morgen um ca 8 Uhr in Matosinhos, wofür ich mit Metro Linie A blue 19 Stationen fahren musste. Wir trafen uns in einem Kaffee am Hafen, frühstückten gemeinsam und brachen dann auf. Heute war es total easy, schönes Wetter, am Strand entlang und sehr viele Holzstege. Auch sind ab Porto die Markierungen besser, die Leute besser auf Camino eingestellt und freundlicher und es gibt hier wieder Stempel.
      Auch lernten wir 2 Australier George und Gillian kennen, mit denen wir bis zum Fischerdorf vor Labruge zusammen weitergingen. In Labruge bekamen wir ein Bett im Hostel, das sehr nett ist, obwohl schon einige Pilger vor uns anstanden.
      Ein toller Tag geht zu Ende und auch die Planung f. morgen. Wir gehen weiter den Küstenweg.
      Baca lagi

    • Hari 5

      Surrender? Or Perseverance?

      18 September 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Last night I made the hardest decision I've had to make since I let Gracie go.

      For a year, I've felt the Camino calling. I've trained in all kinds of weather in preparation, from rain to snow to extreme heat. I've burned through three pairs of walking shoes. Spent innumerable hours doing research, and hundreds of dollars on gear. Made an emotional investment that was, honestly, more than I could afford.

      And yesterday, 10 miles into my 300-mile walk, I was taken down by a cobblestone. Wrenched my knee hard enough to make it swell and hurt like a mother fucker (sorry, Mom). I didn't have walking sticks to lean on because when I'd checked where the local sporting goods store was, I found it was the exact opposite direction from where I needed to start. So I started without them, hoping a pilgrim would find theirs too cumbersome and leave them at an albergue (yes, that happens).

      And I didn't have them when I tripped.

      I made my way to the closest town and called a taxi to take me to a hotel. I checked in and hobbled to my room, cursing whoever snuck the extra rocks in my bag.

      I threw my pack on the chair and lowered myself gingerly onto the bed, being very careful with my knee. I lay there for a while, tears streaming into my ears.

      I tried to think but my heart seemed to have fallen into my knee; they throbbed to the same beat. I couldn't bear weight on it anymore, and I was pretty sure that wouldn't change in the next few days, or possibly the next few weeks. I was a crying starfish on an island of hotel bed, literally an ocean away from anything familiar.

      I rallied for a bit, talking to my travel buddy Lu. What am I supposed to be learning from this? Was it a lesson in perseverance or in surrender? It could go either way.

      I talked to people; friends and family both to get some perspective.

      Was it pain? Or was it damage?

      After a lot of time thinking about whether I even had the chutzpah to walk away from this, I made the second hardest phone call I've had to make since losing Gracie.

      I called the airline. I explained the situation and after juggling my flight, the soonest they could get me out was Monday and that would be an extra $1700, plus whatever the fee was to get a rapid covid test at the airport. I would also go through 4 different airports so it wasn't going to be easy travel.

      I tried to think through the disappointment and the haze of fear creeping in. There was no space in my "fancy" hotel for yoga. So I meditated. And I breathed. And breathed. And then I breathed some more.

      I felt the hot flush in my face, the grains of sand that had crept between my eyelids and my eyeballs while I was crying. I felt the fatigue of the day blanketing me. I felt the blood rushing through my veins.

      And I booked the flight.

      I felt pain. Emotional and physical; I preferred the latter. It could at least be iced, taped up and I could medicate to help it.

      But there was no salve for my heart. I sat with my new itinerary, hastily scribbled in the pages of the journal that was supposed to be the record of my thoughts and reflections for the next two weeks. Fat tear drops splattered the page, smearing ink I hoped I wouldn't have to read later. The picture of a broken heart and a broken spirit.

      My Camino, supposed to take at least 16 days, lasted for 10 miles.

      ****
      I slept. Dozed, rather, starting about 2 AM after an intense conversation with Jason. I got up at 6:30 and slowly began gathering my things.

      I listened to music while I cleaned up for the day. And while I did, I felt that familiar rush I get when I'm about to do something big. I sat for a second.

      Why was I doing this? Any of it? The training, the flying, the walking, the emotionally taxing thoughts that continued to drain my swiftly dwindling reserve? The definitive step out of familiarity and into the unknown? Why was I walking the Camino?

      Because Gracie led me here. Because the Camino called. Because I couldn't find peace in the monotonous familiarity of every day life.
      Baca lagi

    • Hari 10

      Reisebericht- Sonntag Nr 4

      21 Mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Pause Nr 2

      Auuuuuuaaaaa meine Füße....... ich doch so armer armer der äääääärmste Klaus auf der gaaaaaaaanzen weiten Welt 😂😂😂

      Bilder sprechen für sich

      Und jetzt schon das Dach der Liebe gefunden? Neeeeeeeeeiiiiiin ‼️‼️

      Aber ich könnte es als Fangnetz verwenden wenn der sch........
      ööööööne Prinz mal kommt 🤔😂🤪🤪🤪🏳️‍🌈
      Baca lagi

    • Hari 54

      November Beach Day in Matosinhos

      10 November 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      Beautiful day, about 70F/19C. Not a cloud overhead.

      We took the subway to this seaport city just north of Porto.

      A few people were swimming,many sunbathing on the sand. The surfers were out in-force, including a couple of surf schools running classes on the beach.
      Not a bad beach day!
      Baca lagi

    • Hari 2

      Rainy, Windy, Beautiful Porto

      17 Oktober 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 68 °F

      We flew into Areoporto Francisco Sá Carneiro and took the train to Trinidade and then to San Bento which is near the Cathedral of St. Michael which was a magnificent old church with carvings, tile work and gilding galore- it was breathtaking! After obtaining our Credencial for the pilgrimage, we were free to marvel more at the intricacies and the achitecture of the church and actually climbed the stairs (many!) up to the tower which afforded a bird’s eye view of the city and the River Douro. We walked across the King Luis I bridge and happened into a port tasting room that was pouring 10 year old bottles and the port was smooth and delicious. We checked into our hotel, The Poet’s Inn and then hiked along the river to where it joins the ocean, shopped and bought some groceries…all this while walking in pouring sheets of rain and high blustery winds! Our Altus ponchos kept us dry and even though the day was dreary and wet we powered through and got to enjoy beautiful Porto.Baca lagi

    • Hari 48

      Haha... wir haben den Regen mitgenommen

      29 Mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

      nach Coronado. Dort sind wir gestern auf einem Stellplatz gelandet, nachdem der geplante Campingplatz ausgebucht war.
      Aber für eine Nacht war es völlig in Ordnung. Außerdem war der Tag sowieso fast gelaufen. Noch schnell etwas zu Beißen bei dem Imbiss um die Ecke besorgt. Über das Essen gibt's nix zu berichten... besser nicht, schnell vergessen!
      Der Abend klang für Svenchen aus: Netflixen mit Weinchen und Nüssen vom Bett aus.
      Der Abend endete bei Jenny: mit arbeiten. 🤓 So war jeder von uns zufrieden und glücklich.
      Heute besuchten wir nun endlich in Valongo das Sanatorium für Tuberkulosekranke, welches auf dem Gipfel des Mont'Alto in Serra der Santa Justa erbaut wurde.
      Das Sanatorium behandelte zahlreiche Patienten mit Tuberkulose, von denen Hunderte innerhalb seiner Mauern einen schrecklichen Tod erlitten. Nach seiner Schließung wurde das Gebäude geplündert, zerstört und durch Brände beschädigt. Derzeit ist es verlassen und dank seiner dunklen Geschichte ist der unheimliche Ort von Legenden und Gerüchten über Geister und paranormale Aktivitäten umgeben.
      Baca lagi

    • Hari 6

      The Encapsulated Storm

      19 September 2022, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

      It's been a little while!

      Since I last posted, I rescheduled my flight, canceled it altogether, and booked it again. I am considering rescheduling it.

      My Camino this far has truly been a test of my patience, emotional and physical strength.

      Long story ahead, and warning: the timeline may be screwy because I barely know what day it is.

      Saturday, the first day I started, I wrenched my knee pretty solidly. I took a break, hoping it was just a small thing. It swelled and hurt.

      After hours of internal reflection, I made the very difficult decision to go home. Changes in flight booking cost me $1700. I booked a hotel close to the airport because my flight left at 8:30 Monday morning.

      As I was packing up everything, I was listening to music and thinking. And I realized I HAD persevered. All that training I did. All the money. Everything. It was all perseverance.

      And there was no way I was going to throw that away. So I swore to myself I would see the Cathedral in Santiago. I was determined. I booked an uber to the local Decathlon (Portugal's answer to REI) and bought walking poles, new sunglasses (mine broke), electrolytes and a few other things. Then I took an uber to the hotel. I'd already booked and paid, so I wasn't going to waste a night of rest.

      I got into my room and did everything that needed to be done; unpack, shower and laundry. Then I hobbled around looking for somewhere to eat. I got 3 km in and my knee swelled again. I went back to the hotel.

      I took some ibuprofen and slathered my knee in arnica. I called the front desk for ice (ice isn't really a thing here!! There's no ice!!!) I set up pillows, elevated my knee and cried. I was heartbroken. So much internal strife. How was this happening?! How?!? I didn't want to go home. I couldn't. I'd done too much to get here. And I'd already canceled my flight. I was an ocean away from everything I knew. I had no return trip planned or booked. And yet... My knee says no, thank you.

      So I talked to several friends. I searched my soul, I meditated, I tried to sleep.

      And I knew I had to go home. So the flight was re-booked and I was scheduled. I wished with every fiber of my being that I would wake up tomorrow and all would be well, but my spirit was shattered and I knew better. This is soft tissue damage, which can take weeks to heal, and I don't have that time. I was leaving Tuesday.

      *********

      2:30 AM Monday morning, I finally fell asleep. My heart was heavy for a number of reasons and it was a toss-and-turn, can't-hit-REM sleep, not restful at all.

      Still, my reservations came with breakfast. So I knew I had to be up early. I rested as best I could.

      *********

      This morning. Monday. I think. My flight is scheduled for tomorrow...but the swelling in my knee has gone down SIGNIFICANTLY. It still hurts, don't get me wrong. But I was able to make my plate at breakfast and move around with less difficulty than yesterday.

      I have a tiny spark of hope left.

      I finished breakfast and came back to my room to reassess the situation. Trip insurance would cover my flight if I have to come home for medical reasons. This means I will get the $1700 back, which I would then use to book another trip to Portugal in Spring of next year, after I healed. I just had to rest and continue training until then.

      But I've come too far. I want to keep going. Part of this journey is about pushing myself. I don't want to cause any more damage to my knee, but if a couple more day's rest will get me back on track then I will do it.

      There is A LOT that happened between all this, but that's the gist of it.

      Current situation: Flight home is booked for tomorrow at 8:20 AM. My knee feels significatly better this morning, but definitely not 100%.

      So right now, I have three goals: get to a doctor for an actual diagnosis (not just a poke and prod), decide whether or not to push on from there, and look at the details of my trip insurance. I can further test my knee by walking to the doctor, which is about a mile away. A very short walk. If it swells during that, pretty sure I'm going home. If it doesn't, I get a dx and decide once again from there whether to cancel my trip home and keep going.

      So that's where I'm at right now. I didn't have the strength to write during all of this, so this is a short version and doesn't come CLOSE to the maelstrom of emotions I've whirled through in the past 24 hours.
      Baca lagi

    • Hari 24

      Homeward Bound, leaving on a high note

      23 Jun 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

      3 am airports never vary.... People sleeping in contorted strange positions, sorting and repacking bits, tired looking returnees , much more alert departing vacationers. I'm waiting for our gate to be announced for our 5 am flight, and pondering my budgetary choices 😅. Actually we saved a lot on this flight, it was worth it.

      Our last day in Portugal was an absolute delight, I think we saw the best of the best. We got the first morning rabelo boat tour, about 8 of us on a peacefully gliding Duoro River trip. Rabelos are the boats used in the past to transport casks of port down to Porto, now they are used for tourism. These pretty, small wooden boats are a much more authentic experience than a crowded cruise boat day trip. Although the real river cruise boat we saw looked very tempting!

      Then the plan is to head for Sabrosa, the town 16km away that I've just read it's the birthplace of Ferdinand Magellan. As I explain it to Brad, if Magellan could attempt to circumnavigate the globe in the 1520s, then surely we could drive that short distance to visit! The only difficulty is that there is a price to be paid for breathtaking views, and that price is often a white knuckle drive. Incredibly gorgeous scenery does distract a bit from hair raising switchback elevation gains though, and we're soon enough in Sabrosa.

      A last picnic lunch in a park under trees, and a short walk through the old town leads us to Magellans birth home. We pay our quick respects there. I can't imagine the vision and drive of a person born in 1480, to believe the impossible could be done, and set out to do it. It's really sad he didn't quite make it, dying en route.

      We visit the nearby Sabrosa wine cooperative, where we have an excellent personal tour with a young local. For 4 euro each, this includes tastings. And it's a wonderful layout, the cooperative has kept much of the old equipment to display. An old copper still, which is no longer permitted to be used, manual filling and corking machines, we can see the effort required in the old days compared to the gleaming efficiency of the new. A bit less poetic, of course.

      And far less dangerous, as we are shown enormous vats where the grapes have their initial press. Once the liquid is siphoned out for the next step, even to this day, someone physically must crawl through a tiny door and scrape the mast out!

      A fascinating visit, not at all what we expected. So, down a routine highway, into a routine hotel, and here we are entering that vast complex system of transport. To be thrown out the other end many hours from now, jet lagged, achy, desperate for fresh air....and happy to be back on home ground!
      Baca lagi

    • Hari 5

      Santuário do Bom Jesus de Matosinhos

      10 Januari, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

      The grounds for this church were quite lovely, with mossy grottoes and mosaic walkways.

      Unfortunately, the doors were locked, so we were unable to see the famed baby Jesus within.

      The area next to the graveyard features rugged picnic tables made from discarded bits from the church.Baca lagi

    • Hari 5

      Matosinhos

      10 Januari, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

      It was gray and drizzly in Matosinhos, Portugal. Though it may look chilly in the photos, it was lovely walking weather.

      We originally planned to take the Hop On Hop Off to Porto, but never did find the correct bus stop. After following 3 different signs pointing 3 different directions we decided to explore Matosinhos.

      After posing in front of the ruins of a chapel, we wandered to the local market where I saw a hen with a beautiful comb.

      In true Portuguese fashion, there were mosaic walkways and buildings featuring colorful tiles.

      Portugal is known for a pastry called “pastel de nata,” so I was eager to try one. These are little tarts filled with a custard made from egg yolks.

      Back in the day, egg whites were used for starching clothes. Some monks in Lisbon created the pastel de nata to use the surplus yolks.

      My verdict? Yum! I love egg custard and these were creamy and not too sweet.

      As for the statue, I wasn’t able to read the sign next to it. I think he looks a little like Gary Oldman, actually…

      Later in the day, we stopped at another cafe. The sign on the door gave me a laugh because although “puxe” is pronounced rather like “push,” it actually means “pull.”
      Baca lagi

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