Portugal
Odeceixe

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    • Day 27

      Day 27 - To the Far Southwest & Back

      July 7, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Today we packed up & headed south for our next beach stop. I was particularly happy to be moving on, because I had inexplicably been eaten alive over the last week & Jackie had not. I have no idea when or what had bitten me, but I have now got 30-40 bites on most parts of my body.

      The first stop was Zambujeira do Mar to inspect their beach, but we weren’t overly impressed. It was a bit too small and quite crowded. We drove on for about 5 minutes & stopped at Praia do Carvalhal, which was a beach in the middle of nowhere and had potential. It had a bar/cafe, a random Thai massage hut and a decent sized beach. It was a definite possibility to return to.

      Another 15 minutes later we arrived at Odeceixe, a small town which we had earmarked for our next stay. Three miles down the road was a horseshoe shaped beach is considered to be one of the best beaches in Portugal. We viewed it from the car park high above & decided that it was probably the beach for us, but we would drive down to Sagres in the most southwestern corner of Portugal.

      The hour long drive took us through the Parque Natural do Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina. The South West Alentejo and Vicentine Coast Natural Park is the finest preserved stretch of European coastline, covering over 100 km, from Porto Covo in the Alentejo, to Burgau in the Algarve. The Park includes various unique species of animal and plant life, and is visited by many zoologists and botanists from all parts of the world.

      We didn’t see any wildlife in the Park, but on the outskirts of Odeceixe, we found a farmer’s field that contained ostriches, zebras, bison and water buffalo. It was a bizarre sight & no obvious explanation for it.

      Upon arrival in Sagres we stopped at an Inter Marché supermarket for some essential toiletries & 10 litres of white wine. We also had an extremely cheap lunch in their cafe. It was populated by apparent gap year surfers and other poor people. After this pit stop, we continued on to Fortaleza de Sagres, which is a fort, lighthouse and church complex on the southwestern peninsula. It was €3 to enter so we didn’t bother. On the peninsula it was ridiculously windy & we very quickly made the decision that we would look to stay back in Odeceixe.

      Jackie had researched and made her mind up of the hotel she wanted to stay in for the next 5 days. Unfortunately during the day, the price had gone up on Booking.com to a price I wasn’t comfortable in paying. The price didn’t change during the journey back to Odeceixe, so we ended touring the town and I managed to persuade Jackie to downgrade to a similar property, but exactly half the price, almost £200 cheaper!!!

      Over a couple of our most expensive beers on this trip (€5 for a small bottle of locally crafted beer), we booked our cheaper accommodation, which is actually decent albeit slightly bijou. It has the added bonus of a proper balcony & a decent fridge, BUT we only have a small double bed.

      We settled in to our new accommodation and Jackie had to grudgingly admit that this room was actually better than the place she wanted to book. I won’t mention it again………much.

      We had a couple of white wines on our lovely balcony then headed out for a quick stroll before stopping in the highly rated Portuguese BBQ restaurant opposite our apartment . Despite having to put up with a precocious impatient 14 year old waiter, the food was superb. We started with a portion of garlic mushrooms, then Jackie had prawns in piri piri sauce, whilst I had grilled pork in pickles. I chose the cheapest bottle of red at €10 and quite frankly it was lovely. No one could ever accuse us of being wine snobs.

      After dinner, we retired to our balcony for a glass of white wine from our 5 litre bladder that cost just €13.

      Song of the Day : Southwest by New Model Army.
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    • Day 31

      Day 31 - Mad Mary has Nicked OUR Spot

      July 11, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      We gave ourselves a well earned lie-in with the intention of booking some accommodation in or near Lekeitio, Spain for the last few nights of our trip. This was proving trickier than it really should be, because either the accommodation available was too expensive for what you got or it was too far from Lekeitio.

      After a lot of head scratching, I came up with the brainwave of googling campsites in the region. We found one, but couldn’t establish if the they had any availability on their website. In the end I took the bull by the horns and rang the campsite direct using my best Spanish lingo. The bottom line is that we are now camping for our last 5 nights in Spain for a fraction of the cost of having a proper roof over our heads. We celebrated with a bowl of Weetabix.

      We drove out to the beach & could not believe that Mad Mary was face down in the sand in OUR actual spot on the beach. We bottled it & stopped short so that there were people between us and Mad Mary. I won’t go on any more about Mad Mary, but suffice to say she was up to her same antics of wandering around the beach naked or in a pair of dirty grey knickers. She was still there when we left the beach at 6pm.

      We returned to our apartment, got ourselves sorted out & had a bottle of rose wine on the balcony, Jackie applied mousse to my hair. We then went to dinner at the restaurant opposite, which was packed with diners. Jackie ordered the grilled mackerel, which was 2 whole fish & I ordered the pork and pickles again . We had another litre of house red and a sparkling water.

      The food was fantastic, but the waiter was a miserable c*nt, so he didn’t get a tip.

      Note : We gave noticed that customer service in Portugal has been pretty diabolical compared to Northern Spain.
      I would however say that the beaches on the Atlantic coast of Portugal have been pristine. Today at Odeceixe, they even had complimentary conical ashtrays at the entrance to the beach so that those disgusting smokers don’t discard their cigarettes in the sand. Jackie stole one.

      Song of the Day : Mary by Scissor Sister.
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    • Day 30

      Day 30 - Hoff to the Rescue…………..Nearly!

      July 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today we got to the beach earlier than any previous time. We sat in our usual spot with literally no one around us like a couple of Billy no mates. It was at least an hour later, when a couple in their 70’s walked either side past us to the end of the beach, about 50 yards from our location.. Something didn’t seem right, but we weren’t sure what.

      The couple sat down, but 5 yards apart. We were already transfixed on them. The lady was wearing a sun dress which she pulled right up to reveal no underwear & lay in the sand as if she was in stirrups & about to have a smear test. This caused a bit of a surprise to families & joggers that walked/ran to the end of the beach.

      After 15 minutes, her male partner approached her & she screamed at him like a banshee. We were now hooked & rightly or wrongly this was going to be our entertainment for the day. Another 15 minutes or so later, her male partner abandoned her on the beach with her legs still akimbo.

      Not long after, a group of 7 Asian lads arrived & probably not by accident they started playing football around her. After a couple of hours she eventually gathered her stuff together & walked off along the beach, but it was now clear to us that she had some mental health issues.

      Sometime not too much later, I was looking out across the beach & sea, when I saw the same lady stark naked walking amongst the families at the water’s edge. We monitored her progress and she returned to her belongings, put her dress on & returned to her original spot. A young lad who was sat nearby felt compelled to move.

      The lady then lay face down in the sand & didn’t move for the next 2 hours. Eventually she got up, then walked to a sandbank, stripped naked again & walked out into the crashing waves. She was on her own & appeared to have no concept of how to jump over or duck under the waves. Although lifeguards were on duty, they didn’t seem to have noticed her.

      There was nothing for it, the Hoff sprang into action & ambled across the sand to the water’s edge. Just as I dipped my toe in the Atlantic surf the naked woman appeared from amongst the waves & walked past me without an apparent care in the world. My lifesaving skills were not required on this occasion.

      She did eventually leave the beach, hopefully into the custody of a carer.

      We stayed on the beach until 6pm, then went to dinner back at Chaparro opposite. We had a litre of delightful red house wine. Jackie had mussels & I had black pork fillet. It was lovely & plan to return again tomorrow.

      Song of the Day : Rescue by Echo & the Bunnymen.
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    • Day 30

      Day 29 - The Ashes Continue

      July 10, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      As it was Sunday we got to the beach early to ensure a parking space & our chosen spot on the beach. We needn’t have rushed because a cool wind was blowing in from the Atlantic, which seemed to have dissuaded some people.

      We however remained on the beach all day listening to England’s slightly nervy, but exciting victory in the 3rd Test, meaning England are still in with a shout of winning the Ashes. Otherwise not a lot to report other than the Spanish couple from Madrid sat fairly close to us. She was a chunky lass, but it didn’t stop her being topless all day flouncing around up & down the beach. Oh, and Jackie stroked a naked man’s.………………dog!

      Having literally eaten nothing all day, apart from a packet of crisps with our lunchtime wine, we went back to the bar with the expensive craft beers for a homemade pizza. We ordered an Inferno pizza to share and a normal beer each. Jackie ate 3/8ths of the cheese, mushroom, tomato, spicy salami & Tabasco pizza, whilst I ate the rest. We were both stuffed & surely must be losing weight, particularly as every other diner managed to devour a whole pizza each.

      Song of the Day : Ashes to Ashes.
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    • Day 29

      Day 28 - What the hell am I doin’ here?

      July 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      After a fairly decent nights sleep, apart from me constantly scratching my multiple bites, in our small double bed, we had coffee from our courtesy coffee machine on our balcony. The coffee was so lovely to the point that Jackie sent a WhatsApp message to the management asking if we could have extra coffee capsules for which she would happily pay for (a bit rash!).

      We then drove to the beach & chose our spot, but within minutes we were being surrounded by other beach goers including kids. This was not good, so we scouted around for a better spot including the official naturist beach in a cove on the southern end of the beach, where we witnessed some odd little mushroom shaped genitalia.

      We relocated, not to the naturist beach, but to a quieter corner of the beach and had a full day in the sun with wine & a couple of crisps for lunch. I also got to listen to the exciting last hour or so of play in the play in theirs day of the 3rd Ashes Test. We actually have a good chance of winning this Test……at the time of writing.

      Upon our return to our apartment, we found that we had been left a box of coffee capsules free of charge. I made Jackie admit again (and again) that I had come up trumps with choosing this apartment.

      That evening we took a stroll around the cobbled streets of Odeceixe and heard the haunting lyrics of Creep being sung. I had to check it out & found a man with a guitar singing on a stage behind a building. At the end of the song, I discovered that he was a live jukebox & was doing his sound check for a performance commencing at 9.30pm. I confirmed we would return & left as he started to belt out ‘Another Brick in the Wall’.

      We found a Portuguese restaurant down a back street that seemed pretty popular. We ordered 2 ‘Cow Steaks with mushroom sauce’ as it was described in the menu and a litre of house red. The red was very full bodied. When our Cow Steaks arrived it was like we had been transported back to the continent 30 years ago. Our steaks came with chips, rice, salad, grey peas & carrots and the sauce was heavy on peppercorns served by surly couldn’t give a damn waiters. It was all very underwhelming, particularly as I had to leave some of my steak because it was too sinewy. We left without leaving a tip.

      We returned to the live jukebox, which was a peculiar set up & felt more like a wedding reception. We bought several tiny beers at €1.50 a piece and sat down with a young Spanish couple from Madrid. For €2 you could pick a song from a list of about 100 that he would sing and play live. I chose Hurt & Proud Mary. He played our songs shortly before midnight & then we called it a night. Sadly his performance in front of an audience was nowhere near as good as what we had heard in the sound check.

      Song of the Day : Creep by Radiohead.
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    • Day 52

      Odeceixe

      April 8, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Odeceixe ist ein kleines Dorf zwischen der Algarve und Alentejo. 600 Menschen leben in den kleinen Häuschen der engen Gassen. Der kleine Platz Largo 1 de Maio wird von Restaurants und Cafes gesäumt. Hier findet bei unserem Besuch das Fest zum Ostergebäck statt. Eine Kapelle zieht mit fröhlicher Blasmusik durch den Ort.
      Auf dem Hügel liegt das weithin sichtbare Kennzeichen von Odeceixe, in der Mühle in Serro da Igreja kann man den handwerklichen Prozess des Getreidemahlens kennenlernen. Auf schmalen Treppengassen erreicht man die Kirche Nossa Senhora da Piedade.
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    • Day 4

      Windmühle in Odeceixe

      September 16, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

      Fast sah es so aus, als hätten wir einen der restlichen 65 Tage erwischt. 300 Sonnentage soll es nämlich an der Algarve geben und heute regnete es beim Aufwachen. Auch sah der Himmel grau und die Wettervorhersage nicht gut aus.
      Also der perfekte Tag für einen Ausflug.
      Das Wetter schaltete schnell wieder in den Sonnenmodus, aber der Ausflug war trotzdem schön.
      Odeceixe (ich habe gar nicht erst versucht, es richtig auszusprechen) ist ein kleiner Ort ein paar Kilometer von der Küste.
      Die Attraktion ist die Windmühle, die über dem Ort thront und aussieht, als könnte sie sofort wieder anfangen, Korn und Mais zu mahlen. Heute ist in der Mühle ein kleines Museum.
      Der Ort lebt sichtbar vom Tourismus wie eigentlich alle hier. Einen kleinen Fischerhafen gibt es ein paar Kilometer nördlich von uns und auf der Fahrt über Land kommt man an einigen Gewächshäusern und trockenen Feldern vorbei. Ab und zu laden renovierte Bauernhöfe zum Landtourismus ein, aber das Leben spielt sich klar an der Küste ab. Am Wochenende kommen auch viele Portugiesen hierher.

      Nach dem Besuch an der Mühle haben wir noch einen Abstecher zum Strand von Odeceixe gemacht, der 5 Kilometer entfernt an der Flussmündung liegt.
      Völlig untypisch ist der Strand eine große weite Fläche an der Mündung, Familien gehen an die Flussseite, der eigentliche Strand mit den langen Wellen ist ein bekannter Surfspot, an dem auch einige Surfschulen ihre Kurse anbieten.

      Am Abend bin ich hinunter an einen kleinen Strand gegangen, um die Sonne zu verabschieden.
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    • Day 14

      Odeceixe

      September 9, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Die letzte Etappe ruft! Etappe 4🌞
      An morgä ufem mätteli es churzes dehnä und när packi aues zämä (langsam gruset mi aues chli😂)
      22km söttes si, da dr campingplatz chli abgläge vor küste isch.

      Irgendwie no dr gestrig tag idä chnochä aber i has gnossä.
      S isch sehr heiss gsi, i ha die 3l wasser mögä trinkä. Mir isch o bewusst gsi umso ender i viu trinke umso liechter wird dr rucksack🤭
      Kilometer um kilometer und uf de letste 5 hanis de öppe nümme so lustig gfungä- d füess hei wieder weh tag u dr wäg isch nur no ar strass entlang gangä.
      Ufem camping acho bini fasch chli stouz gsi und ha mir es bierli & chli chips ghout.
      Aues wieder ufgsteut und öppis ischmer klar wordä.
      I wet wieder zrügg nach faro zum outo..
      so schön wis gsi isch.
      Mit schrecke steui fest das die bussä vo dört us nid nach lagos gö wöu sunnti isch.
      Nach tausend internetsittä dürrestöbere hani gse ds ab aljezur (nachbardörfli) eine fahrt.
      De hani mi fürnes taxi entschidä und ds busbillet gchouft.
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    • Day 42

      Odeceixe

      January 28, 2023 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

      Nach dem Frühstück machten wir uns zunächst auf, um den wohl am meisten besuchten Ort der Algarve zu besuchen. Farol do Cabo de Sao Vicente. Hier war für viele Jahrhunderte das Ende der Welt aus portugiesicher Sicht. Erst mit den Seefahrern und der Entdeckung Amerikas änderte sich das. Der Leuchtturm gilt als der lichtstärkste in Europa. Seine Leuchtkraft reicht für 33 Seemeilen oder 60 Kilometer.
      www.algarve-pur.de/cabo-vicente
      Danach machten wir uns auf den Weg nach Vila Nova de milfontes, näher an unser Ziel Lissabon heran.
      Zwischenziele waren Vila do Bispo
      www.algarve-pur.de/vila-do-bispo
      und der malerische Ort Carrapateira.
      www.portugal360.de/carrapateira
      In Odeceixe bogen wir dann von der Straße auf einen einsamen Campingplatz ab, von wo wir dann morgen das Dörfchen besichtigen und weiter Richtung Lissabon ziehen werden.
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    • Day 258

      Fisherman's Trail

      March 3, 2020 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Day 4 - Zambujeira do Mar to Odeceixe - 19km

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Odeceixe

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