Boxenstopp LissabonMay 9 in Portugal
Das Saarparkcenter im Flughafen
Das Saarparkcenter im Flughafen
After much debate we decided that given the weather we would go and look at some art. The Gulbenkian seemed like a good choice, a good chronological stretch and some interesting stuff. Hmmmm
We got off the metro and the Gulbenkian was discreetly hidden away but we found it thanks to Google maps. When we arrived it was 10e and no student discount. We were a bit miffed at the price, but it had such a good write up in Lonely Planet that we coughed up.
Pah... It just didn't do it for us, no free range wandering, there was a set order. We were looking forward to the Mesopotamian pots we'd been promised. Nope, one panel and that was it. We hit the cafe as consolation, which also felt unsatisfactory in a nebulous fashion. After a restorative tea and scone we tried again but it didn't feel good. We grumped off to the metro and headed for the Mosterio at Belem. A busy tram and the rain was more serious but we arrived just in time for last entry and no queue unlike earlier in the week. It is an impressive space with some informative displays, especially the time line that layered work events, Portuguese history and the monastery history into a single display. Afterwards we emerged into the by now fairly persistent rain and headed to the tram stop. It was rammed. We had to stand all the way back to the centre and mostly there wasn't enough room to fall over, the crush of bodies held you upright even as the tram lurched.
Finally we made it back, a quick sit down and we headed back around the corner to Taberna Baixa for dinner. Very good and Mandy came away with the little thimble that the cherry brandy was served in.Read more
04th September 2017
This morning we left Oporto by train and arrived in Lisbon at about 2pm.
Very different to the other places we have been to. This is like a big cosmopolitan city. Not sure I like Lisbon.
So many people....mainly tourists. And traffic everywhere. We stayed at Turim Hotel. Very nice. On the main street leading into the heart of the city. Had enough of walking on cobblestones.
More photos of Lisbon. Walking up to the top of the hill you come across all the back street with run down buildings and graffiti. Some houses have lovely tiles attached to their homes. Saves painting the outside as sea air quickly deteriorates the outside of the buildings.. even ruin sites get graffitied.
The hotel we are staying at is a 15 minute downhill walk to the centre of historic Lisbon. Although I would have preferred staying in an apartment, they were more expensive than this 4* hotel that came with a full breakfast buffet. Metropolitan Lisbon has a population of nearly 3 million people, which is about 27% of the country’s population. The city centre is surprisingly easy to navigate and very compact. Around every corner is another treed plaza and monument. In 1755 the Great Lisbon earthquake occurred, equivalent to an 8.5-9 on today’s Richter scale. The city was almost totally destroyed by the quake and the subsequent fires and tsunami. We did a self-guided walking tour using Rick Steve’s travel book, exploring the Alfama District that suffered very little damage. Lisbon is extremely hilly but the guide book directed us to an elevator that took us partially up one very steep hill. There are park-like viewpoints at the top that overlook the city. Then we gradually weaved our way down very narrow streets and stairways back to the river front.
After 14 consecutive days of rain we were very happy to have a beautiful, 17 degree, mostly sunny day. We ate lunch at a patio restaurant, sipped on wine, and watched all the people. It’s unfortunate that there are so many smokers in Portugal, mostly young people, that interfered with our enjoyment of the outdoor patio.Read more
More photos of Lisbon. We must have a real thing going with Tuk Tuk as we rode another one to the top of the highest hill to see this famous church. Not such a hair raising ride this time. They also have markets here every Tuesday and Thursday. Graham was like a pig in shit. He loves markets. Tuk Tuks everywhere up here as too narrow for tour buses.
Each day we walked an average of 8 km, with much of it going up and down hills or stairs. There was so much to see everywhere we went as Porto was spared from the 1755 earthquake that caused major damage in Lisbon. We did our old persons version of a pub crawl, all within one block. First we stopped at the Wines of Portugal Tasting Room. For €3 you could try about 30 ml of 2 different wines. They use an automated system which seemed a bit impersonal. Next stop was the Port and Douro Wine Institute that had a small museum explaining the industry, followed by another automated tasting. I passed on this one but John tried 3 or 4 samples and found a new, expensive liquor to love. Our 3rd tasting was at Oliva & Company where we got to taste 5 different olive oils. The shopkeeper had a wealth of knowledge about olive oil which he was excited to share with us. He was very interesting and the oils were tasty.Read more
It was once again time to move on down the road. Today we travelled by Metro to the Porto Campanhã train station where we caught the train back to Lisbon in preparation for our flight to Cologne tomorrow. It was much cheaper to do it this way but less convenient of course. We got to the Metro and as I approached the ticket machine a man stepped in front of me to assist. Naive John handed him €10 and the man quickly started entering information into the ticket dispenser. Initially I thought he was a Metro employee that sometimes do offer assistance to tourists but then I remembered Rick Steve’s warning about this. We did get our tickets but I think there was some sleight of hand as the change didn’t add up. Oh well, he looked like a needy old gentleman and it was only a couple of euros. He moved on to his next victims, a group of 3 young, English speaking women so I gave them a heads up.
We were at the train station early so no missed trains this time around. We stayed at a different Lisbon hotel that was cheaper and had a more direct route to the Metro that would take us to the airport. Google Maps doesn’t always work well in Europe. It directed us up a hill but when we got to where the hotel was supposed to be, we could see over a railing and there it was on a small street below us. Grrrr! There were 2 ways to get down to the hotel. I chose to take the route that involved going down 6 flights of stairs; whereas John decided to go the long route around the block and down. Either way, we were both exhausted when we got to the hotel reception.
It was 5 pm and all that exercise revved up our appetites so I did a Google search for restaurants that were near us that were open. We picked an Italian restaurant that was open according to their website. After a 15 minute uphill walk we were told that they were closed until 7 pm. Why is it always so difficult to find a meal at this time of day, especially in an International city like Lisbon? I realize it’s the European way but it is still frustrating. John insisted we eat at Pizza Hut and there is no sense arguing with him when he’s hungry. Another bad Portuguese meal....our last.Read more
We checked out of our hotel at 12 noon, and luckily they were ok holding our bags. Because the museum was so close to the place we were staying I thought it would be a good idea to see that museum today while we had to wait till 3 to check into the apartment. we did navigate our way to the subway where we got a viva via gem card. This is just like our compass card and you "zap" it when you enter and exit the stations.
We walked to the Gulbenkian.....amazing museum. Lots and lots and lots of stuff to see. They had some lovely Egyptian reliefs, and carvings done in Obsidian and Basalt. Volcanic rocks from somewhere.
They had an amazing persian section. Lots and lots of tiles, persian rugs, silk pillows. You can see the influence of the ottoman/turk tiles on the portuguese azalejo tiles.
Then there was an asian section that we had to skip, just not enough time.
Some pretty amazing french provincial furniture
Then a lot of paintings, Turners, Rembrantds, more Dutch painters I didn't recognize, Gainsborough (english), Manet and Monet, Renoir, and some sculptures by Rodin. Eternal springtime one of my favourites ( I wouldn't have known the name unless i saw it, i just recognize the sculpture).
Unfortunately the gift shop was out of the English guides, but they gave me an email address so I hope to get it on line in the future. We did pick up a small English language book on Gulbenkian himself the man.
after the museum, colin gave me to 4, i renegotiated till 5. we hit a small cafe where we had espresso and 2 lovely egg type desserts. Very yummy and only 4 euros total. I think we worked off the desert on our hill climbing to find the apartment!
We went back to the hotel, pick up the luggage, and took the metro. Transferring from the yellow line (campo pequeno) to the green line. We took the green line to the end Cais do Sodre. Then the uphill climb to our place, but it is rather close so when we leave it will be quick to go downhill to the metro and back to the airport. taking the red line.Read more
wander back from the Gulbenkian to the VIP Zuric hotel to pick up our luggage and head to the Bario Alto where our apartment is.
The streets remind me of cuba, lots of exposed wiring, some beautifully maintained buildings, others not so much, but not quite as run down as Cuba. Many in Cuba were crumbling. Here just lots of Grafiti.
We had a snack at this little cafe before getting back tot he hotel then off on the metro.Read more
You might also know this place by the following names:
São Sebastião da Pedreira, Sao Sebastiao da Pedreira, Сан-Себаштиан-да-Педрейра