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WalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay

May 2023 - May 2024
An open-ended adventure by RickSails Read more
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  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 4

    End of day 4 Goldcliff to Redwick

    June 1, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    A 1000 yards from Goldfcliff I was back on top of the sea wall. A continuation of the strong north easterly breeze we have had all week, moderated the strong sunshine.

    Very few people on the couple of miles I was on the sea wall. Did meet a chap who said he was practising for the 600 mile GR9 from Jura, France to the coast near Marseille. Getting quite boring walking with the sea always on the right. I admire people who can do the whole coastal walk. I am quite happy my stint on it is almost over.

    Mid afternoon left the sea wall and the Wales Coast path to walk inland towards Redwick where I was hoping to camp for the night. Arrived in a field same time as a farmer in a JCB. He asked if I had seen two cows? He spotted one a few moments later in a Reen. Apparently they like being wet. This dashed my hope that Reens were a barrier between them and me!

    Redwick is a very well kept village with an historic building commemorating its historic farming heritage. The church includes a plaque 5 feet off the ground recording a flood of 1606 thought to have been caused by a tsunami, itself caused by an earthquake around the scilly isles.

    The Rose pub is adjacent to the village hall. It side doors open onto the village hall garden area which a few patrons used to enjoy a drink in the sunshine. This seemed a good use of shared facilities.

    When I asked about camping, landlady Sarah immediately said I could camp in the beer garden. Spoke to a few locals including two I had met last night in the Waterloo Inn. Had interesting conversation with arable farming couple about the problems with farming. Suffice to say we are all doomed!

    Rose menu included 'light bites' which I found was enough food for me and saved a few £. Excellent apple and blackcurrant crumble and custard to finish.

    About 7 miles from Nash to Redwick completed at end of 4th day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 39
    Weather overcast and cool at first, sunshine and glorious from late morning with a cool NE breeze all day
    Number of people passed : about 10    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    1
    Day 5

    End of day 5 Redwick to Mathern

    June 2, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Excellent night's sleep in The Rose beer garden. No lights, no compressors and lots of space. Up early at 06:30, away at 08:15. Retraced the half mile back to sea wall. Overcast and very strong cool wind so jacket, gloves and balaclava. Sea wall gradually reduced in height as land height increased. After 4 miles path diverted off sea wall to walk around military firing range. Then on lanes over M4, passed Rogiet and Caldicot alongside the railway to the Severn Tunnel. Back over the M4 to regain the, by now modest in height, sea wall. Path then followed a narrow road alongside and south of the M4. Here I met a Traffic officer car which had come off the eastbound carriageway, driven under the bridge and was rejoining the westbound carriageway. So that's how they do it! Walked under the Prince of Wales bridge then a gentle ascent passed a number of fog walkers to Sudbrook point. A cliff of over 10m so no need for a sea wall here.

    Sudbrook had a fascinating museum about the construction of the Severn railway tunnel. It included that the cheif engineer also worked on railways in Russia. In which case, how did they end up with a different track gauge (width) I wondered? Next door was a pumping station continually removing a huge amount of water from an underground spring that would otherwise collapse the tunnel walls.

    Next place of note was black rock from where ferries used to sail from before the railway tunnel. Today it has a viewing platform and picnic area.

    Path then dropped onto the beach. Slightly scary, but it was low tide. Then back onto a very modest height sea wall to St.Pierre Pill, across railway line thatvgoes to Chesptow, along a rough gravel lane onto the manicured lawns of St.Pierre golf club. A short while later the village of Mathern and Innage Farm, my campsite for the night.

    Minimal facilities of toilet, sink/basin, drinking water tap and grey water disposal but delightful setting with beautiful lawns and farm house and reasonably priced. Pegs pushed perfectly into lawn which is so important when camping.

    Ate, drank and recharged device in the Millers Arms a few hundred yards north of the campsite.

    13.5 miles from to completed at end of day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 52.5
    Weather sunshine and glourious.
    Number of people passed : About 20    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 6

    End of Wales Coast path

    June 3, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    Saturday: 06:15 driven from my tent by sunshine making it too hot to stay in. Only 3 miles to the end of the Wales Coast path in Chepstow, so decided to breakfast there instead of on the campsite. Packed up and on my way by 07:40.

    Cows in first field out of Innage Farm so took a long detour away from them. Avoided a Teresa May misdemeanour of 'walking through a field of wheat'. Then around an industrial estate that is off M48 junction 2. Grounds around it were nicely kept.

    In the tunnel under the M48 motorway, a 'Park run' was assembling. Chatted with a couple of competitors who had come a long way from Portsmouth and Devon. Apparently, this run was particularly special because it spanned two countries, three counties and ran over the original Severn bridge.

    After a few residential roads, the path entered woodland with great views from high above the river Wye. Then through the delightful garden village of Hardwick, built for workers in the shipyard that operated in the early twentieth century.

    Finally, after a few streets near Chepstow town centre, I arrived at the end of the Wales Coast path on 'The back' beside the river Wye near the original road bridge over the Wye. It is commemorated by plaque, sculptures and information board. I missed the welcoming committee thay wasn't there and was tempted to shout a whoop of 'I've made it', but in true British stiff upper lip, I just took a few photographs.    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 6

    Start of Offa's Dyke path

    June 3, 2023 in England ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Saturday: After breakfasting in Chepstow caught a bus the couple of miles to near the start of Offa's Dyke path. Felt strange using my Wales bus pass to board a bus that was driving through Gloucestershire, England a few minutes after boarding. A lot of citizens of senior years boarded the same bus at Tesco Chepstow, Monmouthshire to their homes in Gloucestershire. Can they only use their bus passes in one direction I wonder?

    700 yards from the bus stop, along a path through woodland then meadow is start of the Offa's Dyke path atop Sudbury Cliffs. The start is marked by a single large boulder inset with a cast metal sign. Rather less grand than the Wales Coast path start point in Chepstow. I learned from this sign the path is 168 miles. I had guessed at it being about 300 miles, same as Cambrian Way, so it was a pleasant surprise to learn that it will have 10 - 12 days fewer walking than I thought. This is the second of the 4 left turns I will make on my walk around Wales, this time northwards.

    After returning along the path I arrived on, I crossed over the road and down through a field to arrive in residential Sudbury. About a mile passed houses in Sudbury then Tutshill I was back by the old Chepstow Bridge. I wasn't sure how far it was to my next campsite and only had Pepperarmi's for lunch so diverted left into Chepstow for provisions.

    A Chepstow shopkeeper estimated the distance to Tintern as about 4 - 6 miles. It was 14:30 so I reckoned latest I would be there to be 18:00 so off I went. Spurred on by the knowledge they had a laundry, the first since I started my walk.

    Lots of ascents in contrast to the level sea wall route of the Wales Coast path. Much of it was through woodland so not many views. Also along top edges of quarries (eek!), park land, arable land and some roads. Very tired by the time I reached Beeches farm campsite but the laundry was welcome.    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 6

    End of day 6 Beeches Farm campsite

    June 3, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Saturday: Beeches Farm is an excellent site with washing machine, tumble dryer, 2 washing up sinks inside, 3 washing up sinks outside, lots of toilets, showers and basins. Also, for £1 a metal locker with 13 amp and USB A sockets for charging devices. Only down sides were no picnic benches and the pitch was slightly sloping meaning I kept sliding towards the side of the tent during the night. All for £8, plus £1 for 4 minute shower (which I found was enough not previously having had any idea how long I took to shower).

    When I arrived it was crammed with about 40 pitches. Lots of children as this was last weekend of half term holiday.

    About 15 miles from Innage Farm to Beeches Farm completed at end of day of walking.
    Total miles so far : 67.5
    Weather sunshine and glorious.
    Number of people passed : about 20 on the paths, hundreds in Chepstow of course.    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 7

    Day 7 Rest day around Tintern

    June 4, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    As this is a Sunday I made it my rest day. Walked down to Tintern, to cross the Wye on the bridge restored only the weekend before. Walked around the loop in the river upstream to attend the morning service at St.Michaels Church in Wales (CinW) church. Trinity Sunday sermon given by retired minister who in the past had been vicar of the church. In conversation afterwards, I learned that at the formation of the Church in Wales, in the early 20th century under David Lloyd George's government, churches on the border could elect to remain Church of England or be part of the new Church of Wales. Apparently the next church upstream is one that elected to remain CofE.

    Creating CinW involved creating a new diocese (Monmouth), which required a new Cathedral. Apparently restoring Tintern Abbey was considered, but in the end a large church in Newport became the Cathedral.

    Continued upstream on the Wye valley walk to cross the Brockweir bridge to the village of Brockweir. Saw a pub under restoration to as it was hundreds of years ago and a Moravian church.

    Back across the bridge, returned suth/diwnstream on the track of the old railway, a little further from the river than the Wye ally walk. Passed a few sculptures on way to Tintern Station. Station has been restored and includes a tea room where I lunched and visited the museum. This told fascinating story of a formerly very industrial Wye valley. Initially served by river boats, latterly by the railway.

    Strolled further downstream to Tintern visiting the few shops, hostelries and cafés for Ice cream. Finally walked to the Brockweir Moravian Church for the evening service before returning to campsite.

    Amazed to see only 11 pitches where there were about 40 this morning. Dramatic effect of the end of half term holiday.

    Long chat with friendly wardens Paul and Donna. Paul thought I looked younger than I am. I was forced to agree with him!

    6 miles from Beeches Farm to Tintern and back completed at end of 7 day of walking. Despite it being a rest day!
    Total miles so far : 73.5
    Weather sunshine, glorious and very hot
    Number of people passed : Hundreds    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 8

    Day 8 Tintern to Redbrook

    June 5, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Monday: Desended from the campsite to now familiar Brockweir, then 3 miles along riverside path on the east side of the Wye. One of the fields had signs warning of Cattle introduced to keep down Himalayan Balsham. Fortunately I was of no interest to them as I passed but I could tell they were enjoying the Balsham by the loud crunching.

    3 miles of Woodland next through Bigsweir Wood, Cadora Wood and finally Highbury wood then a steep descent to Redbrook village. Used the walkway on the old railway bridge to cross the Wye from the Boat Inn's car park in Gloucestershire to the Boat Inn in Monmouthshire! Cider and lunch here. I recommended both. Also friendly staff and a great choice of 1970's music - Pink Floyd, Cream, Jimi Hendrix, Bob Dylan etc.    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 8

    End of day 8 Redbrook to Monmouth

    June 5, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Mile long climb up to the Naval Temple at Kymin was next. Thought to be the country's only monument to Brittania's Naval victories. Then down into Monmouth, walk along the high street and over the Monnow bridge. My campsite, Monnow Bridge Caravan Park, was just a few yards further, between houses.

    Like a Tardis it opened up to a large field beside the Monnow river separated from it by a sizable flood defence wall. A picked a spot by the flood defence wall because it had a picnic bench. Not carrying a chair or a table these are very useful when I come across them. A few midges because I was beside the river, but my insect netting kept them out of the tent. Toilet and showers basic but functional, basins a good size and all inside. Washing up area under rudimentary cover. Friendly host Mary also charged my device. £10 + £1 for 6 minute shower so good value.

    After pitching my brother and sister-in-law Martin and Bobby arrived and kindly took me out for the evening. It was smashing seeing friendly faces after a week 'in the wilderness'.

    12 miles from Beeches farm to Monmouth completed at end of 8th day of walking around Wales and 2nd day on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 85.5
    Weather sunshine and glorious.
    Number of people passed : About 6    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    1
    Day 9

    End of day 9 Monmouth to Llanvetherine

    June 6, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Out of Monmouth route rises up through King's Wood where lots of trees have been felled because of Ash disease. Then lots of moles of countryside roughly following the Afon Troddi river. Stopped at the church in Llanfihangel Ystum Llewern where hikers are invited to use toilet, charge devices and drink tea.

    A few miles further arrived at the imposing White Castle. One of three in the area that historically worked together.

    A mile and a half further arrived at Llanverherine caravan and camping park. A small site run by young couple Ed and Flo. Flo explained they started in 2017, when there first daughter was 6 months, as a business so she could work from home and remain with their children. Excellent site with level pitch, soft ground for pegs, picnic table, toilets, showers, washing up area and device charging. £15 including shower.

    12 miles from Monmouth to Llanvetherine completed at end of 9th day of walking and 3rd on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 97.5
    Weather sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with a welcome ENE breeze for much of the day.
    Number of people passed : 7    Read more

  • TravelerWalesOffasDykeCoastCambrianWay
    Day 10

    End of day 10 Llanvetherine to Llanthony

    June 7, 2023 in Wales ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    When changing Gas cylinders while preparing breakfast discovered my spare Primus cylinder had a different fitting to my Campingaz stove. So Pepperarmis and Welsh cakes for breakfast on the hoof, but at least this got me away earlier.

    Lots of pastureland over the next 3 miles until I met the main Abergavenny - Hereford A465 road. Stopped at the Rising Sun Camping site and pub in the hope of lunch and a Gas cylinder. Pub and camping reception were closed so walked 3/4 mile north to the Pandy Inn for nice lunch and device charge. My daughter Angharad and her boyfriend Isaac were due to meet me in the evening at Llanthony Priory for food and drinks. I am eternally grateful that Angharad drove into Abergavenny after her work to buy Gas cylinders for me.

    From the Pandy Inn the hard work started of ascending the Black Mountains up Hatterrall hill. 1160 feet / 354 metres. On the way up passed 3-4 Hang Gliders flying and 3 Paragliders contemplating take off. Nostalgic for me as I remembered flying off this shoulder a number of times when I was actively flying my Hang Glider. As I walked by them the breeze dropped causing them to have to fly to their bottom landing field. The Paragliders didn't take off while I had them in sight but I learned the following morning that they had managed to fly.

    Once atop Hatterrall hill going was essentially level. The route up had been pleasant over a wide wide and grassy path. Although where not grassed the ground was hard and parched, it having not rained for some weeks.

    After a couple of miles on the ridge I descended on the Beacons Way to Llanthony Priory. The route down was far narrower than on top of the hill. Mostly a deep trench so more difficult to walk. Once at the Priory I crossed the road into Treats camping and B&B. A small site with about 5 pitches and, across a river footbridge, a large field for large DofE type parties. I was drawn to this site because cooked breakfast was on offer. Basic toilet and basin for washing for £7.50.

    Angharad and Isaac arrived a short while after I finished pitching. We were too late to eat in Llanthony Priory but Isaac in particular was fascinated walking around the ruins. We drove to the Skirrid Inn for food but ended with drinks, crisps and nuts. Things close early in the country!

    14 miles from Llanvetherine to Llanthony completed at end of 10th day of walking and 4th on Offa's Dyke path.
    Total miles so far : 111.5
    Average speed : 1.9 mph
    Weather sunshine and glorious. Another hot day with a welcome ENE breeze for much of the day.
    Number of people passed : About 4    Read more

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