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Two Lands of the Midnight Sun
  • RobCowell

Two Lands of the Midnight Sun

Follow me as I visit two Arctic locations where the sun never sets to photograph the summertime landscapes of the far north. During my first week I meet up with other photographers in Greenland, then it is back to Iceland to explore the south coast. Read more
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  • Trip start
    June 20, 2023
    RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    Nice fluffy clouds and 26c

    Luton Airport

    June 19, 2023 in England ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Quite some years ago there was a song by Lorraine Chase called 'Luton Airport' and having just checked the lyrics, I'm surprised it got as high as 22 in the charts ... bet you can't stop yourself finding them now I've said that! 😉

    So here I am at the aforementioned airport, the evening before I properly begin this adventure, sitting in the bar of the Holiday Inn Express waiting for food to arrive. I know I've flown from here before, probably about when that song was in the charts, but I have no memory of it so it's new to me all over again.

    It's an early start tomorrow with the flight leaving at 0600 to Iceland. On Wednesday at 0500 I shall be meeting up with a group to travel to Western Greenland for a week then, upon returning to Iceland, I shall once again be visiting the stunning south east coast. For two weeks then, the ice will never be far away. I'm hoping that's true for good weather too.

    So far, my adventures into the Arctic Circle have always been in winter, a beautiful time to go, but now it is summertime when the sun never sets at this time of year. How different it will be.

    I will post a Penguin footprint as often as I can, though it may well be harder to do when I'm in Greenland with other photographers, so please be patient. As always, the photos I post will be taken on my phone with maybe an occasional photo from the 'big' camera if I have something special to show.

    I would love you to travel with me along the way because I really enjoy reading your comments and answering your questions. Hopefully you will enjoy the journey too.

    The photo in this footprint is the view from my room just after I arrived. I can be pretty confident it definitely gets better than this. 😄    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    I assume the headphones are a permanent fixture
    Nothing like a photo of an engine!

    The Time Has Come

    June 20, 2023 in England ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    It's an early start to catch my flight to Keflavik in Iceland - so excited this morning.

    It was a ten minute walk to the terminal where I arrived at 4am then at 4.30 I was sitting with a coffee and a pain au chocolate in the departure area. It was such an easy procedure and my camera and laptop bag sailed through security, as did I. Thank you London Luton airport. 🥳

    My flight pulled back from the gate two minutes early and arrived at Keflavik 30 mins early, so I think this all counts as a perfect flight.

    Now, I had nothing planned for today with time on my hands until 5am when I meet the group for the flight to Greenland.

    So there I was, in an airport in Iceland and no plan for what do do next.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    This is the old lighthouse
    This is the new one

    Garður Old Lighthouse

    June 20, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    One of the options I had considered for today was to hire a car and go exploring but it seemed an awfully expensive option. However, I couldn't get into my accommodation until this afternoon and it was still early morning .. I was in Arrivals in no time so it was still only 8.30am.

    Having done my check-in for tomorrow's flight with Icelandair, I decided to get a coffee and a snackette and have a think. I then had this amazing revelation, an inspiring event of blinding light - given one only lives once, just rent the car. 🙄

    This turned out quite tricky because none of the car hire companies in the terminal had a car available for just a day, though I got the feeling they just didn't want to hire out a car for such a short period. I then got the invite to join the West Greenland 23 WhatsApp group, which I joined, and I then messaged Jeroen (one of the two leaders) for some ideas of how to get a car. Direct messaging, he suggested getting a bus to Reykjavik and getting a car from there and he even sent me a Google Maps route to follow. The route was great but I'd lose a lot of time travelling by bus to the city as I think it's 30 miles away, with many stops.

    In the end, I found a rental company a short walk from the terminal, so with my suitcase in the boot, my camera gear in the car and Google Maps to guide me, I left the airport to go exploring and my first stop was a suggestion given to me by the rental company on a Post It note with a list of places to visit.

    My goodness was it windy, I could hardly stand up, but the weather was lovely other than that, though from these photos you would never guess it was Iceland. That would soon change.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    This looks more like Iceland 😊
    22

    Exploring the Coast Road

    June 20, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    As I drove away from the old lighthouse I didn't really have too much idea about what to expect. I'd never explored this peninsula before and assumed it would be just a pleasant drive until I discovered there is so much to see in this area.

    It wasn't too long before the views became very Icelandic as I drove through old lava fields consisting of all sorts of shapes, with flat slabs of granite and volcanic vents. I was in my element here, stopping at various parking stops to take-in the views.

    My first proper stop was at the Bridge Between Continents, which is exactly that - the place where the North American and Eurasian continental plates are joined. I photographed the diagram for you to see.

    The wind was still very strong here and I was constantly sand blasted as I explored the site so I decided to give up trying to use my 'big' camera. Using the phone was much easier given the conditions.

    Footnote: please be patient as I know I am many days behind in writing the footprints for this adventure. My time in Greenland is very much full-on with no time to even catch my breath ... there's so much to show you so I'll try and catch-up as soon as I can.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler

    Volcanic Landscape

    June 20, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Here are views from one of the parking areas I stopped at, where I walked up to the top of a volcanic cone. It wasn't all that huge but I got a great view from the top as shown in the main photo. As well as the crater, which you can see in another photo, you can also see the orange tint to the rocks and a close up of a rock I picked up along the way. It was extremely light to hold which meant the lava was full of gas when it was flowing.

    Walking up was no problem, but returning was somewhat tricky due to the very strong winds. At one point I thought I'd get blown off the top and finding my footing between the rocks, whilst being blown about, was quite hard. It was very much worth the effort though.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    At first you might think it's a poppy, but it's a person sitting there.My best attempt at a wildlife shot 😄

    Reykjanestá Lighthouse

    June 20, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Apart from the wind, the weather was lovely and this location was sheltered so it was just so beautiful here. With the sunshine, warmth, such green grass and those lupins, I spent a while just sitting here and relaxing. The views down by the sea were stunning too.

    I was puzzled as to why there was a keyboard bolted to the rocks here, but there was an information board explaining it so I've photographed for you to read. I remember seeing that sequence I think.

    It was unexpected to find this place amongst the barren volcanic landscape which surrounds it. So good.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    2

    Gunnuhver Hot Springs

    June 20, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Just a short three minute drive away things are very different. Here the air is filled with the smell of sulphur and as you move along the boardwalks the smell gets much stronger. You know the one ... rotten eggs. Yummy.

    You can get really close on the boardwalk but there are many signs warning not to stray from it. The ground is very hot here, though at one time it wasn't so bad and there was a house here where an artist lived, making pottery from the clay and painting.

    It was quite warm standing by the vent, watching the boiling water and steam, then every now and then you'd get surrounded by the drifting cloud. If you stayed too long in it, you would quite wet but I avoided that to be honest. I loved it here though.

    I then noticed the time and decided to head back to find my accommodation for the night. I was really glad I'd hired the car and never realised how much there was to see within 30 miles of the airport ... and I hadnt seen all there was to see either. Amazing.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    Small but just right

    Keflavik

    June 20, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 10 °C

    Keflavik probably gets passed by because everyone who arrives at the airport is heading for somewhere else. Most people perhaps never even visit or know what it's like, but the town is only minutes away.

    It's pleasant enough and a nice residential area but I suspect it will always fall within the shadow of the airport. It made a great base for my overnight stay and there were a number of restaurants close to where I was staying. Before dinner I went for a walk to see what was there, then after I'd eaten I want back to my luxurious room, which was very basic with access to a shared bathroom. It was great actually and exactly what I'd looked for and I was well pleased with my choice. I wasn't late to bed though. Tomorrow I had to meet my group at 5am at the Meeting Point in Departures and as I lay in bed I wondered what would come next and if the group would be friendly. Would it be enjoyable, would the weather be okay, had I got enough warm clothes, the right camera gear or the right skills?

    It was all academic now, of course, because in just a few hours I'd find out, so all I needed to do now was arrive on time. I needed to head to the airport at 4.30am.

    And so I did.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    Most of our group took a photo of the planeIt's not all that big is it?A cosy interior it has to be said, but comfy and not noisy either.

    Leaving for Greenland

    June 21, 2023 in Iceland ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Having returned my car to the rental office at the airport, it was a short walk to the Departures entrance. On passing the only hotel at KEF, one of the two group leaders was just walking from the front door: Nigel Danson, who has a landscape photography channel on YouTube. We therefore arrived at the meeting point where Jeroen, the other group leader, was waiting with one other person. By 5am everyone had arrived and the bags were checked in. It was a smooth run through security so we were all getting coffee in the departure lounge by 5.30 ... really early, given our flight wasn't until 8am.

    This gave us time to chat and get to know a bit about each other, though three of the group had met before on another workshop in Iceland. It was quite a range of people and though at first glance I thought I was probably the oldest, that turned out not to be true.

    Then it was time to board our 'huge' plane. You can see from the photos it was propeller driven, with only 8 rows of 4 seats plus a row of 5 against the rear bulkhead, which is where I was sitting though one of the five remained unused.

    The flight was to be a little over three hours - quite a long flight for such a small plane I thought, as the wheels left the tarmac.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    Can you believe how many icebergs are down there?

    Flying Over Greenland

    June 21, 2023, Greenland Sea ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    The first part of the flight was crossing the ocean towards the coast of Greenland. There was much excitement and taking of photos when the east coast was spotted. There were no clouds so we had a fantastic view of the coast and the many thousands of icebergs, which none of us had expected to see. I'm not sure why, but we didn't and it was an amazing sight. Mind you, having said that they can be seen using Google Earth but I just never looked before. 🙄

    Later, over central Greenland somewhere, we saw mountain tops rising up through the ice sheet and once more, the phones and cameras were snapping frantically.

    Those were the only photo opportunities given to us because soon after the clouds obscured our view.

    (The GPS coordinates on my phone didn't update in the plane so the location for this footprint is completely wrong.)    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    Icebergs! 👍🤩
    A quick snap of the view as I left the plane.View from my room.So many icebergs, more than any of us expected.

    Arriving in Illulisat

    June 21, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    The next time we saw the ground is as we were on final approach to Illulisat airport, which is tiny and the reason only small aircraft can fly there. We were pleased to see icebergs as we descended, given that's one of the reasons we came here, to photograph them.

    The final two photos show the view from my room after I had checked in at the hotel. I can't complain for sure and it got better too. The hotel was lovely in fact and not what you'd expect in a small town in western Greenland.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    My first view of the larger icebergs.
    Looking back towards Illulisatt.Everywhere you looked the scene was strewn with icebergs.We didn't have to walk far from the town.

    An Evening Walk

    June 21, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Having discovered our rooms and sorted ourselves out we then went out with our cameras. Our first stop was for something to eat and drink then we walked to the southern end of the town, down to a wooden stairway. This took us up onto the granite rocks where we could then walk along the coast, following yellow markers.

    It was only now that we could all appreciate the scale of things. Yes, there were normal sized icebergs, if you know what I mean, but there were impressively masssive ones too and as I looked southwards they were so big they looked like mountains to my eyes. Clearly they weren't as big as that in reality, but they were huge and did look exactly like a mountain range.

    When we first arrived at a suitable location to stop and take photos, pretty much everyone wondered how on earth you could photograph what lay before us and do it justice. This was going to be hard.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    This is my favourite from tonight.Last views from the hotel before sleep. It's late.Final view before I close the curtains.

    A Long Day

    June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    When you are out taking photos time seems to disappear and all of a sudden it was getting late. The group didn't stay in the same place all evening and at one point we split up to explore. We walked to another location but a few went much further on to get higher and see more of the coast, but I decided not too. Mist occasionally drifted through obscuring the view, so I decided to stay lower.

    On the way back the light improved and perhaps my best photo was taken as we were walking back into the town. It was getting late now and we were all getting very tired: I was definitely glad to get back and sleep and I know I'm not the only one who felt that way.

    Somehow, I think you are going to see a lot of icebergs for a while. 😄    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    It felt quite crowded as we settled in then we spread outIt was exciting as we entered the iceflow.The icebergs got bigger as we moved deeper into the iceflow.The scenes around us were awesome. I'd not seen anything like this before.

    The First Boat Trip

    June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    During the week there were four boat trips scheduled to allow us to get up close and personal with the icebergs. There were two days allocated for these 4hr excursions and each had a daytime sailing then an evening departure at 9pm.

    Our boat was called Lisa, as you can see, and our first trip left at 11am. It's not a big boat but it is ideal for twelve photographers and its small upper deck was ideal for those wanting to fly drones. I was surprised that not only Nigel and Jeroen (our workshop leaders) had them, but also four of the group, so potentilly up to six drones could be in the air. In reality this never happened because flights were coordinated and the most that were in the air at once was actually four.

    Lisa headed out of the harbour and turned south towards the area we had photographed from land last night, but now we were quite a way from there and trying to make sense of what we were seeing. Yes, I know we were surrounded by icebergs, of every size imaginable, but how to you make photographs from what appears to be a jumbled mess?

    As Lisa motored deeper into the iceflow the bergs became bigger and we started to find order in the disarray around us. It was definitely hard as compositions would appear and disappear in seconds as the boat moved slowly through the drifting ice. I took loads of photos but it was rather overwhelming if I'm honest. More practice was definitely needed.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    Let's come back to this significant iceberg later. 😱
    It was quite relaxing as we sailed through the ice.Nigel Danson recording a sequence for his video about this trip.Compositions became easier to find.I got my phone taking video immediately after the event.

    An Unexpected Event

    June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    We had all settled into things after a while and I definitely started to see images worth taking. I'm sure loads weren't of course, but I'm confident some were worth it ... hopefully, with luck! 😄

    You can see from the photos here that even these phone images have a more considered look to them, but what's with the first photo, which appears similar to the last one in this footprint?

    This iceberg is very special because not long after I took these two photographs, with my phone and my camera, something totally unexpected happened.

    Look carefully at the right hand edge of the iceberg, it looks like a face maybe. Look at the side and you see some cracks which most icebergs have. Nothing special then?

    At first there was a loud crack then the face of the iceberg fell away to the sound of crashing ice. We all tried to photograph it - we had our cameras to hand of course - and luckily some were able to video the event. There were even two drones in the air. It was spectacular and we felt so lucky to have seen it so close. Then the mood changed.

    That tumbling ice caused tidal waves which were now racing towards us. The first wave wasn't too bad, but then the second very large and dark wave appeared which, in all honesty, was extremely scary. A few of the group felt our time was up.

    It was quite scary but I could see our skipper turning the boat so it would ride the wave, and it did. My video at the end of this footprint records things just after the waves passed through and you can hear the relief in the comments, so make sure the sound is on.

    I can only add one video to a footprint so in the next footprint you can see a video showing the waves pass through.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    2

    Ice Calving and Tidal Waves

    June 22, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Not having the original video, I've screen recorded this from Nigel Danson's Instagram story. Make sure the sound is on and you play it from the beginning.

    You don't see it in the video here, but the drones saw ice debris landing around our boat. Fortunately nothing landed on us.

    I think he's correct, this is a very memorable event from the trip to Greenland. Unique and scary all in one. Totally amazing. Loved it.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    3

    Night Time Boat Trip

    June 23, 2023, Davis Strait ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    The evening excursion on Lisa, our faithful boat that kept us safe, was at 10pm until 1am and though in Britain that is at night, you can see that it is still very much day time here.

    The aim was the same as before, though we headed north out of the harbour this time. In this direction the icebergs were less densly packed, but it was thought that by going this way there may be more chance of seeing a whale.

    The evening light was lovely, being extremely yellow/gold. This might be due to the contrast between the iceberg white and the deep blue of the sea.

    As you can see, the nature of the photos here is different than this morning and although it had been cluttered, I felt that the morning cruise provided more of a photographic opportunity. I still got some photos however, but we didn't get to see a whale. 😓

    Overall then, an enjoyable time with no scary moments. 😂    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler

    Morning Board Walk

    June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    We were late to bed, perhaps 2.30am or so and sleep was welcome I must say.

    Breakfast was at 9.30am and afterwards we grabbed our camera gear and took taxis across town to this board walk that takes you over rocky and boggy ground to the coast. This was much further around the southern headland than our first walk with an excellent view across the Icefjord. If you follow the fjord to the left you arrive at one of the tongues from the massive ice sheet that covers much of Greenland. This is where all these icebergs originated but that is quite a way from here though.

    Once we arrived on the rocks at the end of the board walk there was time to pick out compositions, whilst those with drones flew them to see what they could find. Still no whales though.

    The weather was very pleasant and the views stunning and I found it an excellent opportunity to relax and simply appreciate where I was. Unbelievable really.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    We used two boats - one with a cabin and seats plus this speedboat.No hanging around this time. We travelled at speed.Still time to take photos on the way.Searching for whales.We moored up next to this building with H8 on the roof.Around forty people live here.

    Trip to Oqaatsut

    June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    After our morning walk, we took fast boats to visit Oqaatsut, a small settlement north of Illulisatt. There are no roads so the only way to reach the village us by boat, though you can walk along a trail which is eight miles, I think.

    On the way there one of drivers (is that the right word?) thought they saw a whale so we spent some time searching for it. Everyone was eager to see one but after quite a while the two boats headed for the village, having failed to spot it.

    There are about forty people living here and how on earth they manage I will never know. There's nothing here and in the winter the sea freezes so I'm not sure how boats get here. I'm also not sure if walking is an option given temperatures can be -30c. Or maybe they are just used to it.

    There is a small infant/primary school here but when the children are older they go to school in Illulisatt. Fishing provides the main income.

    I enjoyed visiting but it did feel a little strange to be honest. As you can see, there are no defined gardens so I had no idea if I was intruding. The locals pretty much ignored us so I wonder what they must make of all this, when strangers arrive by boat, wander around taking photos then leave. There is a guest house on the hill where you can get a coffee but we didn't use it.

    I didn't go too close to any of the houses and didn't take all that many photos either, because it felt wrong somehow. I ended up finding a comfortable rock and looked out to sea and although I didn't see it, some of the group say they saw a whale in the distance. I think they did, or maybe it was just wishful thinking.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler
    The setting was basic, but the food was amazing.Leaving after the meal.

    The Incongruous Meal

    June 23, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    We knew that a meal was included in our trip to Oqaatsut and I assumed it would be at the guest house, but it wasn't. It was actually in the building nearest to where the boats were moored. It was a restaurant called 'H8' - it had a huge yellow 'H8' painted on the roof.

    During the war the American forces dropped supplies to various locations in the area and so the pilots could tell one from another, they were numbered. This location was H8 and the next one along H9 and so on, but now the building with the number is an exceedingly posh restaurant run by a Danish company. The prices on the board are in Danish, not the local currency, though as one would pay by card I guess it doesn't matter.

    This was Michelin Star level gormet food. The meal was excellent, all included with our excursion and only the drinks to pay for, being a set meal with reindeer for the main course. Each course was presented and explained to us before we ate.

    It was amazing to be pampered like this in a location such as this and definitely a great experience, but just outside there were forty people living like they do. I couldn't help thinking about that as we left to return to Illulisatt.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler

    Illulisatt

    June 24, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    You've already seen the view across the town from my hotel room, but this the view along the street looking towards one of the supermarkets in town - there's a Spar too, just like everywhere else.

    I was heading to the nearest supermarket to get some snacks for today, it's the dark blue building in the main photo, just past the electronics store where you can buy TVs, cameras and drones etc. The supermarket was pretty large and was stocked with everything you'd expect, including Gold Blend coffee. The quality of the fresh food and vegetables was high and easily as good, if not better, than at home.

    The last photo is of the hotel as I was walking back. Compared to the majority of buildings in Illulisatt it really stands out doesn't it. The airport is about to be modernised so it can cope with jets, not just small aircraft, and I suspect our hotel is a sign of what is to come. New hotels are already being built so change is happening and this will alter the lives of the people here, which is great, but I wonder what will be lost as a result. There are already quite a few tourists here, us included of course, and quite a number of boat tours to explore the icebergs. At the moment it doesn't feel commercialised, far from it in fact, but what will it be like in five years?

    Anyway, I purchased a few snacks to eat then returned to the hotel for breakfast. There was a long boat trip ahead of us that would fill the day.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler

    Eqi Glacier

    June 24, 2023 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Today involves a two hour boat trip to the Eqi glacier north of Illulisatt and opposite a settlement called Arsivik, not that we were anywhere near that or could even see it, but you might be able to find it on Google Maps. Once again we were in a fast boat, but it still took two hours to get there.

    This glacier is apparently the fastest calving glacier in the world so we were hoping to see another calving but maybe not so up front and personal as before. The trip there was straightforward and relatively clear of icebergs, compared to where we had been, but once we neared the glacier the sea was full of ice. We were surrounded by it in fact so the boat had to push its way through to get as close as it could. When we could go no further we were still over 800m from the ice wall.

    I've taken video here and as I can only post one video per footprint so I've split this so you can see what I've taken. The videos give a much better idea of what we were experiencing.    Read more

  • RobCowellTwo Lands of the Midnight SunTraveler

    Eqi Glacier 4

    June 24, 2023, Davis Strait ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C

    We stayed pretty much a couple of hours hoping to see a calving. At the left, where the glacier touches the land, there were one or two falls of ice but nothing spectacular. We often heard loud cracks coming from somewhere behind where we could see, but no calving. We very much hoped something would happen we could capture with our cameras, but then all of a sudden it was time to leave.

    We had all been analysing the ice to see if we could guess where a calving might occur next and we were sure that one spot looked promising, so we asked to stay a little longer. We were given ten minutes.

    Time was running out and then, at the very last moment, the ice dropped and we got the event we were waiting for. I got this recorded on my big camera but there was no time to also use my phone.

    We then had to leave to get back to Illulisatt but we had a great time though, helped by lovely weather, and we saw a calving. It was quite warm on the deck while we were there but I have to admit this calving didn't quite match the excitement of the one we experienced before. 😄    Read more

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