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  • Day 621

    Three days of Highlights

    April 26 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The forest of Karamanlı is exactly what I was looking for: an oasis of peace, a patch of nature and not too far from the city. Today I set up camp for the next few days and will be working a lot again.

    Day 1
    I roll into town. According to Openstreetmap, the place is a wasteland - not even the streets are correctly mapped, not to mention the supermarkets, banks and restaurants. Perfect for me, as there's a good chance that no tourists will stray here.
    I mark a few important points on the map and look for a place to work. I quickly find a café in the centre, but it doesn't look quite right - it's almost a bit too new and I'm looking for something more shabby, some small place with two or three tables or something. Well, after all there are tables with Rummicub all over the room so I stay.
    The first Çay is quickly ordered and a table is placed against the wall with the power socket. Here we go!

    The heavy bike in front of the door is a real eye-catcher here and I watch the prospective customers with amusement from my vantage point.
    Every now and then I am greeted in a friendly manner, approached a few times and then invited for tea. At first we exchange only with a translator, then Mustafa joins me and we switch to English.

    People come and go and are briefed, followed by countless rounds of Çay. I feel really involved, almost like being with friends. In the evening, I give a little guitar concert and then explain that I'm going to disappear into the forest to spend the night, which is greeted with amusement by the crowd.

    Day 2
    I enter the café. Hamdi, the owner, is delighted and arrives with the first cup of tea. He asks if the night in the forest was good. 😄
    I work while Ali, the café owner's father, pushes his grandson around the room on his tricycle.
    In the early afternoon, most of yesterday's group are back again.
    The boys teach me a new version of Rummicub and one Çay follows the next (you have to know that the glasses are really small!).
    In the evening, I set off again - some of them start giggling again because I'm going into the forest - and one of them warns me about the wild boars. I take the warning in my stride and reply that I usually go through the forest singing so that the animals notice me. General laughter follows. 😄
    The sun has been gone for a while and I only reach the edge of the forest in the twilight. I can just see a few small ones and two fairly large shadows and hear the animals panting. 😨
    I slowly hurry backwards and continue to sing - for the pigs and myself.

    Day 3
    Today is anything-can-happen day. It's not something I decide - it just happens - the great experiences often come all together.
    Today I HAVE to do laundry. The trousers already smell a lot like a cuddled street dog and there are hardly any unworn textiles left.
    So in the morning I wash the clothes by hand, hang them up in the woods and drive into town.

    There, I am welcomed by Hamdi with the first Çay and get to work.
    The teacher Musa comes into the café and shows me round his school. He shows me the staff room, the meeting room and introduces me to his colleagues and then - the absolute highlight - to his class. The kids are just as excited as I am and are simply beaming. It's a great feeling to stand in front of such a group of young people. If I had more language skills now... that would be great.

    We are back in Hamdis Té. The clientele has changed once and new conversations arise. Mustafa comes by and we take a trip to the reservoir and skip stones.
    In the distance, you can see the cut-up hilltops that now characterise this region. Marble has been mined here for a few years now. Some companies have bought the mining rights and are now cutting the precious stone from the rocks - to the detriment of agriculture and the inhabitants.

    We sit back down at a table in Hamdi's establishment, the hub of activity here in Karamanlı. A new face joins the group: Mori, an energetic farmer, wants to show me his land - and off we go.
    We drive along the country lanes in his old Ford Transit and he tells me about the crops he grows and shows me how his fields are irrigated. He offers me a cigarette, which I refuse as a non-smoker.
    Musa explains to him in Turkish that I am also a vegetarian.
    I add: "Ben eğlencenin freniyim", which means something like:
    "I'm the buzzkill."
    We all laugh.
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  • Day 615

    Beyköy, Turkey

    April 20 in Turkey ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    I actually wanted to go to a different Beyköy, namely the smallest village in the region with only 25 inhabitants. The Beyköy I ended up in even has two cafés, making it far too urban for my taste. 😤
    I give it a go and order a çay while I make a note of my recent experiences in my diary.
    Ha! It takes less than 10 minutes before I'm involved in the first conversation. 👍

    "Bonjour monsieur" someone calls over to me. 😳
    In no time at all, I'm sitting at the next table and the Çay loosens our tongues. The conversation picks up even more speed when Ali, who lives in Stuttgart and speaks German, joins us. A short stay turns into a two-hour conversation and my desire to master the language better for my next visit grows 😊.
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  • Day 614

    At Emin's in Seki

    April 19 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Before the trip, I read 'Vagabonding' by Rolf Potts, who has travelled to many countries as a travel writer. The book gave me some inspiration for what travelling can feel like: wild, unplanned, adventurous, off the beaten track, full of surprises.
    It was my desire to immerse myself a little in foreign cultures, to interact with others, to connect with other people in a short space of time.

    I have not yet managed to create this adventurous feeling reliably and permanently, but in recent months I have managed to do so more often and the more foreign the cultures become, the greater the chances of exciting encounters.
    The key to this is travelling with enough time, with an open mind, with little planning and off the beaten track. (I believe total immersion in the adventure also requires leaving out all kinds of distractions and 'anchoring': If one were to forgo books, music, contact with friends and everything familiar it would be true immersion).

    Now I've ended up here in this small mountain village called Seki. The village is 60 kilometres from Fethiye in the mountains. There's not much here and life seems to be centred around the village square.
    I'm the only non-Turkish person here and I think it's great. My English doesn't help me any more and when I order something I never know 100% whether I'll get what I want. 🤷‍♂️
    I go to Emins Té every morning. It's not really called a café, as 99% of the drinks served are tea, so I call the shop Té in reference to the cafés that serve coffee.
    I am greeted with curiosity, work a little and watch the older men play Rummikub. (I never thought it would be so easy to find a games café).
    It won't be long before I'm playing a few rounds myself. 👍

    There are old Renault 12s and light Mondial motorbikes driving around on the roads. The Renaults were built in the early 70s and the Mondials look like they could be from the 80s. Today someone drove into the café on his tractor.... 😂

    From nightfall onwards, I hear nothing. Nothing? Yes, there's this one nightingale that sings the whole night through for me. I count her verses instead of sheep.
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  • Day 613

    Out of the city and into the green

    April 18 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I've been working since Jolanda and Andreas left. I went to the same café in the morning, worked there for hours, drank coffee and listened to music. I returned to my standard sleeping place in the evening and started all over again the next day. How boring. 😮‍💨
    Today I set off spontaneously after work. After a quick shop and without much preparation, I chose the route into the mountains that promised the least amount of tourism.

    After the first 20 minutes outside the city, I'm back in the adventure. everything is new, everything is strange. I discover unknown terrain and am later rewarded with a great spot by a stream that really refreshes me. 💦

    In the evening, I try my best to keep the nearby ant colony from working. They are still very busy after dark and I try to break the will of the collective with mulberries raining down from the sky. Take that! 🍇
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  • Day 605

    Viaiting the Hamam

    April 10 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Our time together with Jolanda and Andreas is coming to an end and we round off this section with a visit to the hamam. This is the first time for all of us and fortunately we are guided through the procedure by professional hands. Out of ignorance, luck or a lack of alternatives, we visit the hamam on the last remaining day for the two of them, which coincides with the Eid at the end of Ramadan. We are looked after by the master almost alone. ✌️

    Once you've experienced the procedure for yourself, every step suddenly makes sense, but during my previous research I was quite confused by the many steps, to say the least. My compulsion not to be unpleasant almost tempted me to memorise the sequence in order to be prepared.📚

    Without a list, the three of us sit here in the steam sauna. I'm almost a little cold, because I'm used to saunas at around 90 degrees from my family and it's much cooler here. On the other hand, the minty scent really tweaks your eyes 🥹

    Andy is the first to go and is led to the centre of the room. He is then scrubbed and soaped up. The master swings this giant cushion in the air and then squeezes it over Andy, who largely disappears in a bubble of foam. Somehow the master's hands find Andy, who is now thoroughly scrubbed.
    His hair is then washed.
    Luckily, he wasn't quizzed, so I don't have anything to worry about without a to-do-list. 😅

    I will remember the soaping in particular. It feels like being tickled by a cloud.
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  • Day 602

    Hiking the Lieschen trail

    April 7 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Tam da sıkıcı olmaya başlamıştı ki Split'ten Jolanda ve Andreas ile tanıştım - aslında İsviçreliler ama onları Split'te tanıdım.

    Oh - so sorry, I forgot that the blog is written in English 🤭

    I was about to get bored just before I met Jolanda and Andreas from Split - they're actually from Switzerland, but I got to know them in Split. They are doing workaways on their trip, i.e. they volunteer for board and lodging in various projects.
    Their next travel project is the Lycian Trail, which they plan to hike over the next few days. And as I'm always happy when someone takes on responsibility, I just tagged along. 😊
    I don't have to plan anything, they've already done that. I get to sit back, relax and make silly comments from the second row. 👍

    The route runs along the coast and stretches over 500 kilometres. In between are the butterfly valley, the blue lagoon and lots of nature.
    We were also able to experience flawless tourist areas, so we got the whole package. 😁

    The real highlight was finding a truly magical waterfall in the middle of the forest. In front of the waterfall, the water collected in a natural pool in which we took a dip. 💦 The forest was a little lighter here and was framed by mountain slopes to the left and right. What didn't quite fit into the idyllic picture was the group of young Turks who had turned this place into their training camp. 😅
    Exercise music drifts through the forest and one of the boys was eager to organise his power workout. 💪

    I will remember this trip for a long time. We reminisced about campfires, messing around together, identifying star signs and birds.
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  • Day 597

    Pyrospectacle at the Barber

    April 2 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I have an important job to do today: I have to get rid of my hair. 🧑‍🦱

    I went to the hairdresser and was kindly informed that they only serve ladies. (Small but subtle difference here: Men go to the barber, women to the kuaför).
    I was kindly escorted to the nearest barber. There I had a Çai and then we got down to business. It was quite an experience.
    I briefly explained what kind of hairstyle I wanted and the boss got started.
    My hair was washed, then cut. He asked if I wanted the beard off.
    - No, thank you.
    Should it be shortened?
    Now I had the feeling that he didn't want to let me go half-done and wild, so I agreed to the shave.
    He rubbed his hands together and the magic began.

    The first step was to apply the foam. A great feeling, it was really fine and soft and the first experience of this kind for me. He started with the knife, often taking some skin between two fingers to tighten the skin for cutting. So he tugged at my facial muscles and in no time the beard was off.

    Then he applied a soothing after-shave lotion, which was rinsed off after a short time. I was bent over again and his hands ran over my face to wash everything off. In his tight grip with his hand in my face I felt like a child again being washed by my parents 😜.
    I leant back and he dried my face.
    I had taken my glasses off so I couldn't see clearly what he was preparing behind me.

    Two cotton wool balls were plucked up and he cleaned my ears in one swift movement. 😮
    I hadn't gotten over it yet when he was already preparing the next stage of escalation. I squinted my eyes to see it better: A wooden stick with...
    Whatever it was - now the thing in his hand was on fire 🔥!

    He held my head with one hand and with the other he flicked the burning cotton wool into my face with a wooden stick.
    The whole thing must have looked pretty funny from the outside, but I had to pull myself together - at least in my head it looked funny.
    After the fire bath, a soothing cream was applied and a little gel was put in my hair.

    His hand massaged my neck, then my spine, then my arms and finally my hands, which he pulled on briefly until my fingers cracked.
    Now he was done. And I was feeling like a newborn.

    What a show! It's even worth coming back with snacks and watching the show! 🍿
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  • Day 595

    A pottpurri of impressions

    March 31 in Turkey ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    That was probably the second most relaxed of all my border crossings so far. I'm standing between all the other passengers with my heavily laden bike, blocking the aisle of the small customs building.
    The man at the X-ray machine kindly asks me to put the large black bag and then any other bag of my choice on the conveyor belt. 🤭

    I actually wanted to find an official campsite, but they have all closed and I get the impression that everyone is very relaxed, so I camp wildly on the first night. ⛺️

    Over the next few days I wonder what happened to Ramadan. Exactly a year ago, I used to hide away to eat and drink in Morocco, but Ramadan doesn't seem to be such a strict affair here.

    The first chant of the Muezzin in the morning wakes me and also positive emotions and memories of my time in Morocco. It males me feel safe somehow.

    In the first few days, I gain a lot of impressions.
    Now I can finally say that I drank tea from an ekoçai 201!!
    There's one thing that brings tears to my eyes here: the pollen flying around 🤧
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  • Day 592

    Mátala (Tourist Trap!)

    March 28 in Greece ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Mátala is one of those places where something cool once happened and has been mercilessly exploited ever since.
    In the 60s/70s, the small fishing village was a magnet for hippies who lived in caves from Neolithic times.
    There is certainly not much of the original charm left, as there are now 3 shops for every cave and so the small village is teeming with restaurants, souvenir shops, cafés and the like. Naturally, admission is charged to visit the caves. Even the supermarket has adapted its prices to tourism and charges a hefty surcharge for the goods. 😱

    Now I can at least count myself among the travellers who can say: "I 'did it'." .
    I was there, I took photos and then left again. It took me about 15 minutes in total, but I sacrificed 170 metres in altitude 😭

    bye bye 👋
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