Funemployment - Part II

October - December 2017
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  • Day 8

    Wat Rong Khun

    November 7, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Back at the bus station, I enquired and learned that a southbound bus would soon depart, and that it would stop at Wat Rong Khun. I boarded that bus and disembarked along the highway after a 20 minute ride.

    Wat Rong Khun is also known as the White Temple. It was certainly very spectacular, but I couldn't decide if it was cool or if it was kitschy. The white temple was designed to reflect Buddha’s purity. To get to it, one had to walk through a nightmarish sea of hands protruding from the ground. Once past the hands, one crosses a bridge to the dazzling white temple with tiny mirrors inlaid. I guess this was a metaphor for rejecting temptation or evil, and then crossing a bridge to achieve purity. Anyway, the temple was quite spectacular, if a bit overrun with tourists. Indeed, it took ages to cross the aforementioned bridge because there were so many tourists taking pictures or selfies on the narrow bridge.
    https://www.atlasobscura.com/places/wat-rong-khun

    After exiting the temple, I chanced across a sawngthaew driver who had just dropped off a passenger and was willing to accept a reduced fare so that he did not return to Chiang Rai empty. I took his offer - it sure beat standing by the highway waiting for a bus. He took me back to my guesthouse.

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  • Day 8

    Wanderings Around Chiang Rai

    November 7, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    After freshening up a little, I set out on foot to explore Chiang Rai. I set off first to the clock tower, where, according to my guesthouse owner, there was a good noodle place nearby. I found the noodle shop easily and had a soul warming bowl of noodle soup. I’ve missed eating authentic Thai food, especially street food. After eating, I walked around just enjoying being on the streets in Thailand once again.

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  • Day 8

    Wat Mung Muang

    November 7, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    During my walk around Chiang Rai, I explored two temples. The first was Wat Mung Muang. I was mindful to not get templed-out so early on this trip as the World Heritage Site of Luang Prabang was just a few days away.

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  • Day 8

    Cup N A Cat

    November 7, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    After all this walking and wandering around, I treated myself to a latte and dessert at Cup N A Cat. The kitties were cute, of course, and many were friendly. There were quite a few exotic looking cats in the cafe, which in turn led me to believe they were not rescues. Unlike other cat cafes I have been to, there was no backstory provided on the kitties.

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  • Day 8

    Night Market

    November 7, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    After short afternoon nap, I set out for the night market. There, I walked around, ate a hotpot dinner where I cooked my own food in a charcoal-fueled pot of spicy broth, bought some snacks (including a nutella-slathered roti), and then called it a night.

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  • Day 9

    Hill Trek

    November 8, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ 21 °C

    I spent November 8th trekking in the hills north of Chiang Rai. I booked this trek through my guesthouse.

    When I was picked up, I was amused that the guesthouse owner twice notified the trekking company staff that I spoke Thai. After picking up the various trekkers, I sat in the back of a pickup truck for the 30 minute ride northwest.

    The trek started off with an easy 0.75 mile hike to a Lisu Village. The Lisu are Christians from Yunnan province who fled China after the revolution. From there, the hike went up a very steep hillside with a barely visible path first through tea plantations, then through a lychee grove. The payoff at the end was a great view of the surrounding hills and Chiang Rai in the distance. After that, we hiked downhill, stopped at a spectacular waterfall, and then we ended up in an Akha Village where our lunch was cooking.

    Most of lunch was cooked in the hollow center of bamboo poles, including sticky rice and an egg, tomato, and onion mix. There was also chicken, pork, vegetable noodles, and fruit. The guides made our utensils from bamboo, including our little bowls and chopsticks.

    After lunch, we hiked to a spot where we each planted a tree (some kind of local fruit) and then hiked to a Lahu Village. Our trucks were waiting for us at the village to take us to our final destination of the day, which was a hot spring. After a good soak, we made our way back to Chiang Rai in the early twilight. Total hike distance was about 5.75 miles.

    When I returned to Baan Baramee, I found a self service spread of khnom jeen which the owner said was for the guesthouse's anniversary celebration. I took a small portion, then I wandered out to the clock tower where I had pad thai.

    This was a short but happy immersion back in Thailand. I deliberately chose not to spend much time in Thailand because I wanted to explore new places, but it was still great to reconnect with my former home.

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  • Day 10

    Crossing the Border to Laos

    November 9, 2017 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I woke up well before dawn. My plan was to catch the first bus of the morning to the border, cross into Laos, and then make my way to the boat pier to catch the 11am boat to Luang Prabang. While I was in Chiang Rai, I resisted the urge to buy my passage there as I read that it gets cheaper closer to the departure point.

    I took the 6am bus bound for Chiang Khong near the border for 65 baht. There were about a dozen travelers, plus some locals, on that bus. The conductor collected 65 baht from all the westerners without ascertaining their destination, and then froze when she came to me. Ah, the joys of traveling as an Asian in Asia. People often hesitate because they know I'm not local, and they are unsure how communicate with me. Sometimes, the confusion deepens even more when I speak in fluent English or, in the case of Thailand, in their own language. Anyway, I told her pai lao. You could see the momentary confusion on her face as she processed the fact that I spoke to her in Thai, then she smiled and collected my fare.

    The bus ride took about two hours. About 4km before Chiang Khong, the travelers were let off the bus where a fleet of sawngthaew was waiting to take us to Thai border control for 50 baht. After exiting Thailand, I had to pay 20 baht to take a standing room only air conditioned coach across the Friendship Bridge - overkill, really, as I would have been more than happy to walk across the bridge.

    At the Laotian side, I finally gave in and paid 1,100 baht for transport to the pier and the two day boat ride to Luang Prabang. Total cost for two days of transportation - 1,235 baht or ~USD 39. Not bad.

    While waiting for the sawngthaew after clearing Lao immigration, I heard an American accent, and then another. There were four of them - Emily and Kit from Kansas City, MO, and Casey and Greg from Colorado. I joined the conversation. I was stoked to have company and to not have to speak s-l-o-w-l-y! In the sawngthaew, another American couple - Liz and Nate from Seattle - surfaced.

    All the people who had booked the slow boat with this agency were taken to a compound in Huay Xai (I came to think of it as a holding pen) where the trip was explained to us. Basically, we would set out at 11.30am and reach a town called Pak Beng in the early evening. We would overnight there and then set off for Luang Prabang the next morning. When I saw how many people would be on the boat through this agency alone, I grew concerned about accommodation, so I booked a room in Pak Beng for 500 baht through the agency. The pictures of the room looked too good to be true for that price. I also bought water and stuffed baguettes similar to banh mi.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Laos/West/Pakbe…
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  • Day 10

    The Slow Boat - Day One

    November 9, 2017 in Laos ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After about an hour at the holding pen, we set off for the pier. There were even more people there, divided between two long boats. Despite being among the last to board, the seven of us managed to find seats near one another. Near to us, we found another two Americans - Heather and Mark from California, who had been on the bus with me that morning. They were both single travelers who hooked up along the way, and there was tension brewing between them.

    The boat set off more or less on time. It was crowded (no maximum occupancy notice was visible; I’m sure the number of people on board far exceeded most western safety standards), there were no life jackets in sight, and we sat on used minibus seats that were not bolted to the floor. This thing was a floating death trap.

    The Mekong’s waters were murky, but the scenery all around was gorgeous. Just lots of shades of green. I spent the time chatting and getting to know my new friends, reading, snoozing, and admiring the scenery. The Spaniards at the front of the boat were having a very drunken salsa party. One of them wore a distinctive pair of black athletic shorts that quickly became a running joke among us. I observed them in amusement, as well as a Laotian guy who knocked down three beers in very quick succession and then stumbled all over the boat. He eventually joined the Spaniards. The next day, I heard that the other boat also had some partiers and they got quite out of hand, including daring one another to dunk their heads in the water.

    Late in the afternoon, five of us started a drinking game. We were barely into it when we pulled in to Pak Beng, a full two hours earlier than we had been told to expect. I was a little ticked off that the lady at the bar sold me that beer so close to the end of the trip. I chugged the beer down, belched, collected my bag, stumbled off the boat, and followed a guy from my guesthouse to a sawngthaew, which deposited me at the guesthouse up the hill. As expected, the pictures I was shown earlier that day were too good to be true; they must have been for a more expensive room. No matter, it was only for one night and it was adequate. Not surprisingly, Pak Beng turned out to be a dusty one street town whose main purpose was to accommodate and feed travelers on the slow boats.

    That evening, the nine of us met for dinner at an Indian/Lao restaurant. After dinner, I went to sleep serenaded by distant strains from Happy Bar. They played some of the most cliched backpacker music imaginable (think Bob Marley).

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Laos/West/Pakbe…
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  • Day 11

    The Slow Boat - Day Two

    November 10, 2017 in Laos ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    I woke up in the morning to some very odd animal sounds. I showered, went to the hotel restaurant for breakfast, and saw two elephants on the other river bank. Apparently, there is a sanctuary there. The two elephants seemed to be having a blast from all the noise they were making. After breakfast, I packed up and walked to the pier, and found a seat with my friends. The two boats didn’t look the same as yesterday’s boats. Mercifully, all the partiers congregated on the other boat.

    This second day of river travel was a little trying, The scenery was spectacular as expected, but it got monotonous. At my deepest moment of boredom, I started imagining that we were going into the Heart of Darkness. The horror, the horror. I just wanted to get to Luang Prabang. We were led to believe that we would arrive at Luang Prabang by 3pm. 3pm passed, and no Luang Prabang. Argh.

    We finally pulled in to Luang Prabang‘s boat pier around 4pm, collected our bags, walked up the hill and booked a sawngthaew for the 10km journey to Luang Prabang. We agreed to meet the next day to go to the waterfall.

    From the drop off point, I found my way to my guesthouse, checked in, rested a bit, and then took a walk around the night market. At the night market, I found a crowded little alley with lots of cheap eats. I ordered a khao soy, and I was surprised when I got a bowl that didn’t resemble khao soy in Thailand. It was delicious nonetheless. I then turned in early as I was tired from the boat ride.

    Overall, this ride was a little too long and uncomfortable. I was very ready to get off the boat long before we docked. But, it was cheap (the next cheapest option was nearly $200) and I am glad I got to make new friends. Despite the many times we changed hands during this two day journey, the entire operation went remarkably smoothly, and the transfers were quite seamless.

    https://www.travelblog.org/Asia/Laos/West/Pakbe…
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