Spain
Arroyo de Pozuelo

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    • Day 12–13

      Day 9 Navarrete and 10 Najera

      April 19 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

      Heading to Naverette was mainly vineyards and pavement. A somewhat easy 24km walk but our feet and legs still hurt from the daily pounding. No blisters anymore, just aching muscles.
      It's FIESTA time in Najera celebrating what else but wine....vineyards are everywhere. 5 refills for 10euro...I'm in😁 Gave ourselves a break today with only 16 km. Next few days will be tough with longer walks and higher ascents. Onwards!Read more

    • Day 12

      Pilgeretappe durch die Weinfelder der ri

      May 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Hola buenas noches. Weinfelder soweit das Auge reicht, dass war der Ausblick der heutigen Etappe von navarrete nach najera. La Rioja ist weit über die Landesgrenzen für seine Weine bekannt. Dazu kam noch eine Brise Sonnenaufgang, Vogelgezwitscher und eine duftende Flora. Man trifft permanent Pilger aus der ganzen Welt, welche sich mit einem freundlichen buen camino begrüssen und hier und da zu einem kleinen small Talk einladen. Erkenntnis des Tages: Lebe deinen Traum und träume nicht dein Leben.Read more

    • Day 28

      Now at Nájera

      April 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      Another really pleasant walk…cloud cover and breeze, so not too hot, patches of blue and sun, but not blazing…perfect really, and we walked the 16.8 kms through more picture postcard scenery of vineyards, olive groves and some grain fields - but predominantly vineyards. We left between 8.30 and 9, and got here at about 2, stopping at Ventosa for a coffee/ColaCao break…and a lunch break at a well placed park for pilgrims with trees and benches just before arriving at Nájera. The walk in to town is always rather dreary - through an industrial area and not the best end of town, then you arrive at the river and the bridge and it is all lovely…the old charming part. We are staying at the same hotel as twice before, so all very familiar.

      We stopped to have a beer and a snack of croquettas on arrival, before checking into the hotel. Quite a few walkers there, and an amazing thing happened. Two women arrived, and asked if we were Australians from Sydney, and they turned out to be a cousin of Cathy’s husband Pete Sertori and her friend Angela!! We had in fact heard that they were on the camino, probably catching up to us, from another cousin Margaret Moore, who has walked the camino and we have had lovely camino bonding sessions…but how amazing to actually meet up!! Margaret had sent us both photos of each other, but I think I could have sat at the same bar and not noticed…but Amr looked, and Susan looked at us and wondered…and it all clicked!anyway, very good. We are meeting up for a pre dinner drink in a little while, though also had an end of walk relax for a bit too. They had arrived not long after us, and had walked from Logroño….almost 30 kms…leaving in the dark at 6.30…too much to enjoy it…they plan to get a bus across the meseta I think, as they have a schedule for the flight home! Better to bus and then truly enjoy the walking I think.

      So now we are settled into our room, relaxing, reading, doing words etc…the Spanish double rooms often consist of 2 beds pushed together, but each with its own set of sheets and covers…all gets very tangled when you untuck them (I like everything loose)…but all part of the tapestry…at least we get to have our own pillow this way!!..our room today is actually a triple, with an extra bed…

      Soon we will hit the town and look for a good place to eat tonight. Last night’s dinner was fun, at the hotel which had a restaurant and probably one of the few places available on a Sunday night…many walkers there - a couple from Luxembourg, a couple from England, a Belgian and an American…the waiter was from Argentina. I had a veg soup that was virtually delicious cooked veges with a very little liquid…and then roast chicken (they have a way of making it taste so good)…comfort food! Amr had salad and hake…I wonder what tonight will bring.

      After these 2 easy days we have 4 more all over 20 kms. Shouldn’t be too much, we are well in stride now, and don’t let ourselves get tired. The longest will be the walk into Burgos on Friday..about 26 kms I think, but Burgos is lovely and we have a rest day there.

      Well now back from dinner…fun again. First we met up with Susan and Angela, and a group of other walkers from many countries, great to chat and also goodbye as they will all be ahead of us tomorrow. Then we left the young (about 60 yr olds!) as we had found a good place for dinner and wanted to get there before it was full…we did the right thing…empty when we arrived, but soon people arrived and more people turned away…good dinner, and the English couple from last night there at a nearby table and another Australian woman we hadn’t seen before…bit of a loner and really nice. Amr had a beautiful fish that he saw being taken into the kitchen, and I had stuffed peppers..all good…
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    • Day 12

      Nájera

      September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

      10.6 miles today. I sent my bag ahead to lighten my load and give my knee a bit of a break. I'll do the same tomorrow.
      I went faster today and was able to enjoy the town. They are in day 2 of a 4 day festival so we got to listen to a Spanish group singing while we waited for the monastery to open.
      The monastery was so cool. It had a mix of Roman and Gothic architecture, and had the tombs of ancient kings and their families.
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    • Day 13

      Nájera

      September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

      Left town about 6:45am as many people were still trying to find their way home from celebrating all night after Spain beat Germany in basketball. It was sunnier today but cooler temps. In other words, another day of perfect hiking weather. We walked through endless grape vineyards with harvest just getting underway. Beautiful.

      We were finally able to reconnect with Miguel, one of our favorite Camino friends, in Najera. We had beers and a yummy Pilgrim dinner of Chinese food.

      The sad news is Tom has developed some tendinitis and grabbed a taxi the last 7 miles of the walk today. He will taxi ahead to the next town tomorrow as well in order to give his leg a rest. Hopefully with a little down time he will be as good as new and rejoining me on the trail.

      Buen Camino
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    • Day 18

      To Naverreta and Najera

      September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Day 14 Naverreta and Day 15 Najera - Left fairly early from Logrono and reached Navarrete before noon. Didn’t enjoy the walk because I miscalculated and didn’t have coffee till I got to Navarrete. Needless to say, the day was a bit joyless. Sections of the trek were along a noisy road and I couldn’t listen to my book, so listened to and sang along Bollywood music instead!
      Today was fun, and I’ve stopped for the night in Najera - which turned out to be better than I expected after I crossed the River Najerilla. I’m staying in this old Albergue that is close to the Monastery of Santa María la Real that was consecrated in 1056. There’s a festival in town and loud music and bands everywhere. Hopefully I’ll get some sleep tonight.
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    • Day 17

      Najera

      September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Droga wila się przez większość czasu pomiędzy winnicami. Rozpoczęliśmy od około 10 stopni Celsjusza ale pod koniec dnia doszło do 24. Słońce i wiatr.
      Z ciekawostek historycznych zaraz przed wejsciem do miasta po lewej stronie ruiny romańskiej świątyni z XII wieku, które służyły za hospicjum dla pielgrzymów, był to ważny i bardzo nowoczesny na tamte czasy ośrodek, dzisiaj tylko zostały ruiny, trochę pojawiło się zadumy podobnej do wizyty szpitala na Łąkowej.
      Piękny portal, pozostałość hospicjum, przeniesiono w XIX wieku troszkę dalej za miasto i służy teraz jako wejście na cmentarz.
      Dochodząc do Najery bardzo blisko wioski Aleson stoczyła się walka pomiędzy legendarnym Rolandem a gigantycznym królem Syrii Feragutem ,który w tym czasie mieszkał w Najerze. Miał ponad 9 stóp wysokości i siłę czterech dorosłych mężczyzn i przerażający wygląd twarzy. Walka trwała 4 dni i Roland wygrał w końcu pchnięciem miecza w pepek olbrzyma który okazał się jego bardzo słabym punktem.
      Wchodząc do Najera najpierw mija się nowe miasto potem za mostem nad rzeką Najerilla wchodzi się w malutkie stare miasto wcisniete między rzekę a czerwony klif. Była to najpierw osada rzymska ,pozniej mieszkali tam Wizygoci i Maurowie. W XI wieku król Sancho III Wielki postanowił zrobić to miasto siedziba swego dworu.
      Głównym budynkiem zajmującym prawie całą starówkę jest Klasztor Santa Maria la Real. Zbudowany, nie przypadkowo w tym miejscu, gdyż właśnie tutaj król Sanchez polując, odkrył w grocie figurkę Santa Maria de Real. I w tym miejscu rozkazał wybudować świątynię, którą doczepiono do tej właśnie groty. Powstał gotycki główny gmach z barokowym ołtarzem i nawami bocznymi. Jest to miejsce spoczynku XII władców Nawarry jak również ich żon i dzieci.
      Kościół król Sanchez w XI wieku przekazał Benedyktynom, a obecnie opiekują się nim Franciszkanie.
      Nie udało się zobaczyć chóru bo był zamknięty z powodu renowacji. Wiele obrazów namalował tam Hans Memling od Sądu Ostatecznego z Gdanska i są ponoc równie dramatyczne.
      To chyba na tyle, idziemy spać.
      It was a very pleasant day... Feet didn't hurt, the distance wasn't too long, and scenery of the vineyards and wineries along the way, constantly reminded us about the delicious, chilled , inexpensive wine waiting for us at the end of our day. I drink white wine, Tomek drinks any wine, but his favorite is vino tinto. Surprisingly to us, it has been served chilled also and he says tastes amazing . At home he always dranked red wine in room temperature. Looks like from now it will changed... Lesson learned on Camino ❤️
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    • Day 12

      Day 12: Nájera

      September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

      We left Navarrete before dawn aiming for breakfast in Ventosa, about 7 kilometers away. It was our chilliest morning yet, with a brisk wind that had me wishing I’d remembered to move my gloves to my daypack, as my backpack remained behind for transport to our next lodging.

      After a little more than an hour’s walk, we found that the final kilometer to Ventosa is as an “art walk.” It was fun to read an inspirational passage and admire poster-sized art along this stretch of The Way.

      By the time we reached the Bar Café Buen Camino, we were more than ready to order hearty breakfasts of sliced tortilla (who knew tortilla would vary so much in flavor and consistency from place to place!, toast with jamón ibérico and tomatoes, chocolate filled pastries, freshly squeezed orange juice, and coffees.

      We left Ventosa with an energetic spring to our steps, admiring the vineyards lining much of the Camino to Nájera. Many of the vines were dripping with grapes. A few, had already been harvested.

      A couple of farm tractors and a few farm vans passed by, kicking up clouds of dust each time.

      As we neared Nájera, we chatted with a pilgrim from Brazil who passed us by. It turned out that she was going to Albergue Puerta de Nájera, so we ended up getting to know her a bit more as we waited for the albergue to allow us all in at 1 p.m.

      I took advantage of the wait time to get a haircut around the corner from the albergue. I’d opted for a short “Camino” cut before we left home, but it had grown in enough to need a trim.

      After checking in—while bumping in to three of our dorm mates from yesterday—we were escorted up two flights if stairs to our shared room. Tonight, we’re in a 4-bunk room. Quite cozy compared to last night’s 12-bunk configuration. This albergue is highly rated, and booked full for the night. The Camino is very busy this year, with an extended Holy Year, plus many who are taking deferred-by-Covid trips augmenting the usual numbers of pilgrims.

      So far, we’re having good luck reserving our lodging the night before: a requirement if I’m scheduling my backpack’s transport for the next morning. When we get closer to Sarria, we’ll book those final few nights to Santiago ahead of time. That’s the recommended approach in a “normal” year, given the higher number of pilgrims on the final 100 kilometers, a requirement to receive a Compostela in Santiago.

      That’s still quite a ways off for us, so today, after taking a shower, I headed off for a solo lunch while Allan took a restorative nap. Dinner last night did not sit well with him, and rest was more appealing this afternoon than a meal. I, meanwhile, am loving the Spanish tradition of a big lunch followed by a light to nonexistent dinner.

      Tomorrow, we’ll head to Santiago de la Calzada, 21 kilometers away.
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    • Day 12

      Etappe 9 - Santo Domingo de la Calzada 1

      September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Im kleinen Hotel habe ich mich so wohl gefühlt, dass ich heute morgen nicht einmal den Wecker gehört habe. Deshalb kam ich erst gegen 6.30 Uhr los.
      Mit einer Amerikanerin, einer Holländerin und einem Spanier habe ich dann einen Abzweig verpasst, was uns ca. 5 km mehr für den Tag beschert hat. Ultreia!!
      Landschaftlich war der Weg heute lange nicht so schön wie gestern. Er war hügelig - aber kaum Abwechslung.
      Als ich das erste Mal den Kirchturm der Kathedrale von Santo Domingo de la Calzada gesehen habe wusste ich: noch rund eine Stunde zu laufen. Genau so war es! Gegen 11.30 Uhr ist die Stadt erreicht.
      Einen ersten Überblick wieder in der Touristinformation erhalten.
      Dann zur Pilgerherberge - Bett erhalten und beziehen, danach Duschen und Fußpflege - das Wichtigste!!!
      Ein kleiner Stadtrundgang schließt sich jetzt an. Zuvor erst einmal etwas Essen, da Frühstück heute irgendwie auf der Strecke blieb.
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    • Day 12

      Stage 11: Nájera to Santo Domingo

      September 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      20.9 km/13 miles, about 7 hours, 52°-59°, cool cloudy with intermittent rain showers, got to try the poncho - it works great! 🌧️ Bit of a slog after last good rest stop for elevenses (at 10:00) in Azofra 5.8 km in. Got into an interesting conversation about religion/ spirituality during which a woman from the Netherlands shared that she just found out she has bladder cancer. We all prayed with her before heading back out. You just never know...each day is a gift.
      Mid- back lodged intermittent complaints today- its main demand seems to be "you must stop, sit down and take off the d*** pack at least every two hours!!" Seems reasonable.

      I have thoughts, I am not my thoughts.
      I have sensations, I am not my sensations.
      I have emotions, I am not my emotions.

      I'm experimenting with walking with the Minimal Required Effort (MRE- and/or meals ready to eat). How do I walk in as relaxed and graceful a manner as possible? without extra effort? Resisting or having an emotional reaction to my sensations/experience is extra and adds stress. Where am I clenching? (even my jaw! when I get into grim determination mode). Surrender into the experience, breathe.... experience is experience, suffering is optional. (Hah, great in theory 😂)

      I've decided the poles slow me down sometimes, the effort of swinging them with every stride, so I'm playing around with them. Sometimes I hold them horizontally, or swing them ahead together every few steps (pretty soon I'll be twirling them like batons).

      Got checked into the Cistercian monastery, into my spare but comfortable room, have showered and done laundry and it's 6:00 pm, dinner isn't till 9:00! I'm so hungry I don't know what I'm going to do till then!
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arroyo de Pozuelo

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