Arroyo de Vallarna

“It’s your road and yours alone. Others may walk it with you, but no one can walk it for you.” – Rumi

Day 15 - Castrojeriz to Boadillia del Camino - 21 km

Woken up this morning by a couple of women departing at 4:15 and 4:45 am. They basically woke up the room, so others started trickling out after them. The last 4 of us finally turned the lights on just after 6am. Aaaarrgggg…. Shoot me! If you can’t beat em’, join em’ I guess.

I was ready to roll and started walking at 6:45 am in the pitch black. All was good as there are lights in town. Shame I was at the wrong end of town for departure. By the time I left the town, I was following two other pilgrims. We were all as stupid as each other and ended up on the wrong track. Ended up walking 3/4 km out of our way (and then back). By the time we found the right way, the sky was lightening. Good thing because my headlamp is crap!! Can hardly see the ground, and it won’t turn off when it is cold out. Which is every morning. I had to take the batteries out yesterday but didn’t have time today. So now it is dead and I will give it an unceremonious burial next time I see a bin!! So much for leaving in the dark….

Less than 2km out of town (3.5km for me!!), was a bloody imposing mountain / large hill to climb. Have I mentioned I hate hills 😂. I literally cried at the thought of hauling myself over this thing, but up I went. I stopped. Quite a few times. And cried. And gasped for air. And cried. And I bloody made it! I had two people stop to ask if I was ok. One, a man of approx 75 years old even asked if he could carry my day pack for me. I declined but that was really sweet. When I arrived at the top, another man (Frank from The Netherlands) was just behind me. He recognized me from one of my crying days. He had seen me and been chatting with me at a “bar by the side of the road” when I couldn’t stop crying. Well that narrows it down - NOT hahaha!! He congratulated me on making it up the damned hill and took a photo of me. Something he said really touched me. He said he was so happy to see I was still on the Camino and that he had been talking to people about me (what he said and to whom, I have no idea). He then said I have been an inspiration to him. Me? Me! Wow….made my morning. Next came Sabrina, from my first day! So great to see her again! Once I gained my breath back (note: I AM recovering much more quickly!), I was able to continue. After 300ft, it was all downhill!! These things are going to break me!

Kilometres of flat fields with no habitation around brought me to a small town with a supermercado that also served tea/coffee and food for passing pilgrims. I had my first bocadilla here (meat and cheese sandwich on French stick bread). Darned bread was so crusty it abraded the roof of my mouth! Needless to say, I just ate the meat and cheese!

There was still an 8km slog to get me to Bocadillia del Camino. This too is a challenge - the long open stretches with just yourself for company. Still, I finally made it to the Albergue just after 1pm. Megan had called while I was enroute and I spent a lovely 20+ mins with company to chat to on my walk. I was hoping to speak to Laura too but it was a bit too early for her. We touched base a bit later, after I was settled in my Albergue. This albergue has all individual beds (no bunks) and I got first pick.

I saw Frank again and he has to taxi to the next town as he has some bad swelling in his leg and needs a couple of rest days. I asked him why he said I was an inspiration and he told me because he was really impressed with my humanity and humility. How I had opened up to a complete stranger and allowed my vulnerability to show. He felt I was an example of how the Camino affects people and how my determination to continue had impressed him. I was a little
awed.

Rest of the day was spent in the bar just chatting with pilgrim friends I had
met before. Met new people too and had a fabulous pilgrim dinner. This to me is the best part of the Camino. Meeting so many new people and forging connections - some that will definitely last long after the Camino is done.もっと詳しく