Spain
Arzúa

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    • Day 13

      Palais de Rei to Arzua

      June 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Today was a 30km day. (That’s 18.6 miles for you English people). We were on the trail by 7:30 which is about half an hour better than our best leave time yet. This is our longest day. Tomorrow should (should?!) be a piece of cake. (Unless we are so sore from today that we can’t move.)

      We walked through a lot of industrial areas today. It wasn’t the most thrilling of the legs. It was long and a bit boring at times. We had to find ways of amusing ourselves so there was a cherry spitting contest after we scored some cherries from a farmers market. There was the school drive playlist sing along - the CD Jon never removed from his car in the 6 years he drove all three boys to school in the mornings. Aiden opened up a can of olives in anchovy paste he bought in a vending machine. And also a can of licorice stuffed with weird colored flavors. I bought a cup of corned nuts from a roadside stand to eat because I was bored. Daniel aways walks with a croissant in his hand to keep himself amused and full of calories. We also were entertained by a singing Irish couple on the trail just when I was about to lose my mind. The Way must have known we needed a diversion.

      Of course we are always amused by the dogs and cats that greet us in every town. We also noticed more weird wildlife this hike- probably because there were fewer things to look at in the distance. We saw a cool green lizard, a really weird octopus mushroom, a big pinching beetle, and some flowers that seemed different.

      Two days left. Oh, and before I forget, this hotel is really cool. A centuries old building gone modern. I’ll post more pictures in the next footprint because I can only do 20 at a time.
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    • Day 37

      How do We count There

      June 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

      Melide to Arzua about 15km
      The rain keeps me busy
      eating food and taking ponchos in and out from backpack

      Santiago is only like 40km away
      It is tough to comprehend that it's "right here" after 5 weeks...

      ULTREIA
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    • Day 27

      Arzua to O Pedrouzo

      June 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

      An interesting day. Started at 2:30 am when the French couple next door had an argument 😵‍💫
      The room had no AC and it hit the upper 80s in the afternoon so quite the toaster. Pack up and hit the road early and it was very quiet and peaceful. Cruised into a tiny town called Outeiro. Headed down a narrow lane, but a narrow, handmade yellow arrow pointed right. I saw a group at the bottom of the lane and assumed they had made a wrong turn. So I turned right and after arcing around the building found the eclectic Bar Tia Dolores who decorates with used beer bottles. I continued on The Way…getting increasingly nervous as I noticed an absence of the two sure signs you are On The Way…your fellow Peregrinos and the yellow arrows (flecha amarillo). But, there was one guy behind me so I carried on. After a while I came upon a map set in stone at a house gate. Sure enough, I had tracked off The Way. The other fellow was consulting his phone and we put our heads together and figured a plan, the map shows the eventual merge of our route with The Camino. We cruise along. Suddenly, we hear “Peregrinos! Peregrinos! El Camino no está aquí!” Running out of a house is a man half dressed, pulling up his trousers. He has seen us and wants to intervene. No Camino! No Camino! His fingers wag in admonishment. ‘Si! no problema señor! Mira mi carta!’ ‘Ah! Si El mapa de José Gutiérrez!” I point to where we are, “Esta aquí?” ‘Si, si!” Esta La iglesia? I point to a distant bell tower. Si la iglesia. I mime left then right…si, si, si and he brings his pointer fingers together, “El Camino!” I turn to the other Peregrino and say, “We got this!” And we hike on. Having heard my compatriots voice, I ask, Are you from Port Wenn? (Doc Martin reference) He laughs and says, you mean Port Issac! Yeh, about 5 km from there! I have met Dave! A retired psychiatric nurse with five grand kids. He learned of The Camino during a motorbike tour a few years ago. We then engage in the miraculous event of Peregrinos sharing their life story. It makes The Way pass more easily. Dave was at Cruz Ferro in A downpour and started having foot problems. We discuss the philosphies of The Way…an unexpected event…physical trial and their parallels in life. What a joy and gift. Thanks be to God.Read more

    • Day 27

      Melide to Arzua

      May 27, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      18km - Hulle sê dat “the Camino provides”. Vandag het dit vir my twee “complementario” roetes gegee wat niemand anders wou volg. Dit was 8km deur woude, eucalyptus plantasies en plaas huisies vêr van die massas wat afkyk op die grond en “klak, klak, klak” met hulle stap stokke vooruit stoom.

      Tussen deur vang ek op met Becky van die VSA wat haar doktors tesis doen oor kos antropologie in verskeie lande.

      Aandete loop ek Ronda (ook van VSA) raak en ons deel “complimentarios” van gebraaide pimento’s, brood, jámon, quesa, chicken strips en n tuna slaai elk. Nou, vir probeer vroeg slaap terwyl die son nog so hoog sit jy kan n tan vang ☀️
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    • Day 7

      Day four Camino: 11 miles

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Today we walked from Melide to Azrua - about 11 miles. We went through many small towns, again passing farms, fields, and churches. The landscape and surroundings are constantly changing which makes the walk very interesting and not so arduous. We were feeling it more today; Andrea with a small blister on her toe and Elizabeth with some achey knees. We are starting to recognize people on the Camino who have been walking to the same towns as us and we chit chat as we walk or when we stop for a coffee or snack. We have an evening ritual of our Spanish wine (Andrea) and Sangria (Elizabeth) that we look forward to! Tonight we are staying in an amazing 17th century, refurbished manor in the countryside. Hopefully it’s not haunted! 👻 Enjoy our photos and videos, including “Camino Q&A”!
      Andrea and Elizabeth
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    • Day 45

      Arzua

      October 14, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      Day 41 - nothing much to report. Todays short walk - again about 9 or 10 miles was pleasant. Morning mist, cute towns, dairies and paths through eucalyptus (non-native) forests. Our destination was Arzua, a town famous for its local cheese - which we tasted and found quite bland. The town of Arzua itself is quite nondescript. It would have been better to have stayed in an Albergue in one of the small villages.
      As I walked into town I saw a man making paella, so I brought Ginny and Steve back to it for an early dinner.
      We have 2 more days to get to Santiago. If I had followed the stages strictly, I would have reached in 33 days. As it is I will have taken 43 days. This is partly because I took 5 days off in some of the more interesting towns and secondly because in the beginning I walked shorter distances in order to toughen up my knees. Now that I’m nearing the end there’s almost a feeling of anti-climax. I’m hoping that the walk to Finisterre will help me overcome feelings of withdrawal that so many pilgrims have expressed. My plan is to spend a few days on the coast and process this whole journey and experience.
      You’ll be hearing more from me….
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    • Day 35

      Day 32 - Hills, hills and more hills

      October 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      "I love walking because it clears your mind, enriches the soul, takes away stress, and opens up your eyes to a whole new world ." - Claudette Dudley

      Day 32 - Melide to Arzùa - 14.2 km - approx 3 3/4 hrs walking time

      A rainy day was forecast again, and it had been raining all night. By the time Annette came to my Albergue and we were ready to go, it was just about 8:40 am. Later than usual, but it was good timing. The rain had stopped and we stepped out to the smell of wet pavement and overcast skies. I have no problem with this! Much preferred to rain!

      As Annette called her husband in AUS, her pace got quicker and quicker while we were walking downhill. My poor little legs were struggling to keep up with her and I didn’t want to interrupt her call to tell her. She did notice after a bit, and we slowed down. Whew! There was no way I could keep that pace up!

      Within about 15 minutes, we had caught up to Lucinda who had apparently left earlier than us. We all walked happily together along tree lined dirt and stoney trails. Very little road walking today, which was lovely. There were a lot of hills though - not so lovely. I still hate the damn things! My recovery time is definitely better, but I’d prefer not to have to know that!!

      We stopped briefly at an organic stand and each bought a bottle of the woman’s homemade liquor. Raspberry for Lucinda and I, and coffee liquor for Annette. Going to be interesting! I think I will save it until Santiago as a celebratory tipple.

      After leaving the stand, we walked through some fragrant eucalyptus forest. It smelled SO good! Apparently the Ozzie’s have come and they are here to stay. Eucalyptus is apparently quite invasive - but it does smell good!

      We had a rest stop approx half way, and said hello to Elise who was resting at the same bar. This was the only time we saw her today as she walks faster than we do. Once tea and coffee’d up, we hit the road for the last half. We were thanking our lucky stars that the promised rain had not yet materialized. In fact, we started to see some blue skies that gave us hope for the rest of the walk.

      More uphills and downhills and uphills. I was so grateful it was a short day as the hills just make it seem so long!

      We arrived Arzúa at 1pm and each went our separate ways to our Albergues. Mine didn’t open until 1:30pm, so I hung around in order to get a good bed. When I had gotten my bed made, myself organized and hand washing done, Annette and I met for a pizza lunch and a couple of glasses of wine. I walked with her to her hotel as she was able to check in finally. Afterwards, I hit the grocery store to pick up a salad and some cold sliced chorizo for dinner. Also grabbed at bottle of wine for 2.40€. Crazy!! I have only had 1 glass and not sure what I will do with the rest. Thinking my empty water bottle is looking like a good candidate….

      Tomorrow is more hills all the way to O Pedrouzo. Annette and I have decided to walk together again, so I am going to go further than I had originally intended. The following day will be slightly shorter, then before I know it, I will be in Santiago de Compostela. As of today, I have less than 40km left. How is that even possible? I am still sad I needed to take a train to make my timeline (and now have extra time) but, it did take the pressure off me and allowed me to relax into this last third of my journey. They say the Camino doesn’t give you what you want, but what you need. Case in point, right here.

      Wish me luck on the horrid hills tomorrow!
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    • Day 39

      Stage 36: Arzúa-O Pedrouzo

      October 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

      19.3 km/11.9 miles, 60° all day, about 6.5 hours
      I slept in late till 8:40, knew I was exhausted from yesterday so didn't set the alarm. So I had a record late start of 10:00. One advantage was I had the trail to myself for long stretches. I was all suited up due to the 100% chance of rain prediction but it only came in fits and starts around noon. Stopped for coffee, then for lunch around 2:00 during a brief downpour, then on into O Pedrouzo in sunshine again.
      Tomorrow I'll be walking into Santiago, the goal and endpoint of this pilgrimage for me. A newbie just starting off in Sarria asked me a couple days ago "so why did you decide to do the Camino?" and all I could say was "I'm still working that out". What I've managed to come up with so far is (and all of them equally important):
      As a personal challenge and adventure
      A 500 mile act of contrition
      As a prayer for forgiveness and in gratitude
      A way to gain clarity about my life- past, present and future
      I'm going to try to get up and started early tomorrow in hopes of making it to the noon pilgrim's mass in the cathedral. Also have to claim a box at the post office and a suitcase at Express Bourricot, check into my hotel, get cleaned up and rearrange my stuff to take a bus to Porto on Sunday. And just like that, it will be over, the daily forward momentum of walking to Santiago. What will life be like, post-pilgrimage? I guess I will find out.
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    • Day 44

      Albergue Camino Das Ocas

      October 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

      We continued our 18.7k day, through the small city of Azrua, with quick stops at the supermarket for wine, bread, cheese and ham for our afternoon meal. And at the Pharmacia, to replenish the ibuprofen supplies! :-)

      We walked to our night's destination, an Albergue/Pension that is actually 1/2 mile off the Camino, away from any town. But it is in a good spot for our walking schedule, less than 20k to get here. Less than 20k to tomorrow's stop!

      Lots of hilly, up & down walking this afternoon. No more mountains, but the river valleys are frequent and steep.

      We could be walking through NH or Vermont cow country, instead of Galicia!

      Two more days!
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    • Day 35

      Arzùa

      May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

      Vanochtend voor de 33e keer een ritueel uitgevoerd; uit een vreemd bed gestapt, geontbijt en de fiets op gestapt, ik hou het globaal... Morgen maakt dat dus 34 keer en dus dagen.
      Ik heb het vandaag ervaren als een moeilijke opstart, ik kwam niet los, het ging moeizaam. Ik vermoed dat het lichaam ook weet waar het aan toe is..
      Op een gegeven moment een van de vele caminopaaltjes gefotografeerd en daar is het qua foto's bij gebleven. Ik heb er alles uit moet persen om in Arzùa uit te komen terwijl mijn ambitie was om daar nog voorbij te rijden. Volgens Google is het nu nog iets van 40 km maar de jacobusroute heeft altijd een ander plan 🙈 maar zo ongeveer blijft er voor morgen over. Ik heb het helaas niet korter kunnen maken maar wel een afstand die te doen is. Morgen maar vroeg op pad en dan voor de laatste keer de pedalen op. Een final countdown zal ik maar zeggen...
      AANVULLING:
      Ik heb zojuist mijn ticket naar huis geboekt, dan moet je wel vertrouwen hebben in morgen hè!!
      Morgenavond sluit ik mijn missie af, dwz dat ik zondagochtend als ik in het vliegtuig zit dit dagboek ga sluiten. Ik ga er een boekwerk van laten afdrukken dus tot die tijd kunnen jullie reageren.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Arzúa, Arzua

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