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Atapuerca

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    • TravelerCamino de Santiago
      1
      Day 14

      San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

      April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

      195 miles done. 305 to go. 39% of the way done!

      From random conversations on the Camino with people from every corner of the earth, I can say that the world waits with bated breath what is happening and how the dramas will play out in the United States… Donald Trump, the world economy that rests on the shoulders of the US economy, the Israel/Palestine/Iran war, mass shootings and gun violence, and more. It’s an odd thing to feel both pride and shame for your country. I’ll be thinking on that a lot more I’m sure as I continue to meet pilgrims and be even more distanced via time from home.

      Today’s journey had every type of road surface. Giant rocks to traverse, gravel, grass, dirt, pavement… it was a long day of walking, 7 hours. But, I made it to my hotel just in time to learn they too also take siesta and didn’t open for a few more hours.

      FaceTimed with my parents and they were happy to see me alive and well. Drank wine in the park at a cafe. And caught up on news from around the world before checking into my hotel. Then it was time to get things done…laundry and shopping.

      My Altra Lone Peak 7 shoes simply couldn’t handle the demands of the Camino. I bought them in December and trained lightly with them, but the treads are now worn completely down on the heels, the padding inside the heels has been rubbed away, and the insoles became paper thin and hurt. Even buying new insoles didn’t save the day. Goodbye old friends. You served me well, but I’ll be contacting customer service with photos because you should have been able to last the journey with me at the very least.

      So, out with the old and in with the new. I found a great store with very knowledgable (and thankfully English speaking) staff who helped me find my new companions for the remainder of this wild journey: Merrell Agility Peak 5s. Pricey, but my feet are worth every penny if I’m to finish the Camino in the next few weeks.

      Best wine tonight of the entire Camino and supposedly only bottled for this restaurant. I’m challenging our good friend and wine connoisseur, Tom Wehr, to find this wine and import it by the case for me. Medium rare steak with a whipped roquefort butter is a heavenly combination worth trying to replicate at home. And finished with a cheese custard made with three cheeses from Spain, France, and Italy on a caramel drizzle base with brown butter crumble. Spoiled myself tonight. #worthit

      Rest day tomorrow in Burgos. Sightseeing at the cathedral, the castle, and museums.

      Night friends!      Read more

    • TravelerAdventure on Camino Francis
      1112
      Day 23

      Atapuerca

      September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Day 20 - Atapuerca is the site of several limestone caves that contain the earliest evidence of humans in western Europe—fragments of a jawbone and teeth date to over a million years ago.
      I left Villafranca early-ish and my knees were feeling great. I was able to climb up through the thick Oak and Pine forests at a quick pace. Passed through a few beautiful towns and reached Atapuerca in the early afternoon. I bumped into a few pilgrims and spent a pleasant afternoon drinking red wine and eating olives - outside a ‘cantina’. Sitting there under the trees, I felt as though I was in a scene from Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid - remember when they are in Bolivia? There was nothing else to do. I had no wifi - I haven’t mentioned it, but I’ve had cell phone issues - apparently although I have enough data leftover (140gig), I am out of roaming on my French SIM. So for the last 5 days have had to rely on wifi. I’ll get a Spanish SIM in Burgos.
      Tomorrow - on to Burgos!!      Read more

    • Camino de Santiago
      Day 20

      12 or 13 kms to Cardenuela Riopico

      October 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      A long day for us, the official distance was 24 kilometers, but it felt longer. We got to our Albergue this afternoon at 4:30.

      We walked 4 km mostly through another shaded forest trail, the we emerged back into the sunny wheat, sunflower and potato fields.

      We had lunch in a beautiful village Ages!

      And we saw another pterodactyl nest in the church bell tower!

      After lunch we had 8 kilometers left through fields and an exposed ridge climb, before walking down the Rio Pico valley to our destination for tonight. Albergue Santa Fé.

      We had beers on the patio in with two Dutch women, who met while walking the Camino. Great conversation!

      Dinner at 7 PM, bed is probably not far behind!

      Tomorrow, we walk to the city of Burgos!      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Francés 2022
      Day 11

      A good plan

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

      The plan worked very well: I arrived at Villafranca by 8am, and stopped for brekky. The temperature was 14°C there and I hadn't realised how cold my hands were. My fingers were stiff and I couldn't undo the clips of my backpack!
      There was only one place to eat there, the restaurant at the hotel/albergue. I had a Colacao (hot chocolate) and a croissant, served by Salam, from Algeria, who was very excited to meet an Argentinian for the first time.
      The trail from there to my destination of the day was nice, with more shade than direct sun, and I made it to San Juan de Ortega before midday, with 26°C.
      I checked in at albergue El Descanso de San Juan, had a light lunch, shower and siesta 👌      Read more

    • TravelerCamino Francés 2022
      Day 11

      Manolo

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

      I have seen this man a few times in the last 3 days, and last night we were at the same albergue.
      This morning he started after me, and passed me on the way. He arrived at San Juan de Ortega before me.
      We just compared our walk stats, and he walked the same distance in half an hour less. He's turning 71 in September.
      Well done Manolo, you're a legend! 👏👏👏      Read more

    • TravelerCamino23
      1
      Day 15

      Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

      August 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      Left Belorado late this morning, went to the farmacia for an inflammatory. They opened at 9 AM so I was on the trail by myself for the most part. It was very nice considering. Approximately 24 Km, mostly up hill. Being all alone an unafraid was peaceful. The reward was at the out door restaurant so many people from all over the world showed appreciation for each other. Made the day special.Read more

    • TravelerCamino Francés 2022
      Day 11

      Another sunrise

      August 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      I was the first one to get up at albergue Cuatro Cantones in Belorado, and I started walking in the dark, at 5am, with 15°C. It felt a bit cool, and great for walking.
      Today I had a route of 27k ahead, the first half being a slightly uphill walk to Villafranca Montes de Oca, and the second half a steep climb (one of the top 10 climbs of the whole Camino, I've been told) over La Pedraja, and finally a descent into San Juan de Ortega.
      I had to start that early, because the forecast for today was 35°C.      Read more

    • TravelerCamino
      Day 23

      San Juan to Burgos

      September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

      A later post tonight as we have hit the city lights of Burgos. What a contrast to San Juan where the only noises were roosters and cow bells!
      I must say though that last night we had the best meal. Black pudding, pork loin chops and salad. All for about 35 per person that included 2 bottles of red wine. Burgos region is famous for black pudding made from pigs blood! Best we don't know.
      So we had a very early night and then up early and on the road by 645 am with head torches on. We walked about 5 km and came to a cafe in Ages, tiny village and had our coffee and croissant fix.
      On we walked with the sun rising and saw our first lot of sheep in ages. Even heard bird song which has been a rare sound.
      Climbed a pretty steep hill and walked through forests but the the fun part of the walk was over! After another stop at a roadsidecafe we walked and walked along roads and crossed major highways until we walked into the industrial area of Burgos.
      We tried to find the alternative route via a river but alas it was never found!
      It was hot and I guess we were getting hangry but on we trudged. I guess it was a good reminder to us that Spain is not just about cute little villages and pilgrim walks!
      We did pass on our way the site of some of the first human relics found at Atapuerca and is now a world heritage site.
      Finally we arrived at our destination but the hostel didn't open until 4 pm so what were 4 tired pilgrims to do but have a long Spanish lunch under the shade of plane trees.
      Burgos is such a contrast to the quiet villages we have been staying at and tonight it was warm and so many out and about. We witnessed the Burgos rugby club being cheered on in the square for winning the Spanish rugby championship and apparently 2 kiwis are in the team
      The women here seem very stylie and our rather crumpled pilgrim clothes seemed a bit out of place.
      Rest day tomorrow and our legs need it so we will do relaxing sight seeing and laundry! 26 km walked today
      Buenos noches      Read more

    • Camino de Santiago (Frances)
      111
      Day 24

      Day 16 - Atapuerca

      September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 72 °F

      Had a very pleasant walk today, started to a beautiful sunrise in Villafranca before we left. The walk was a 7.5 mile to start, we went 8.5 before stopping for a cafe Co leche and a cerveza (OK maybe two). We then made our way to our stopping point for the day, total of 12 miles today. One more day to Burgos, and a day off, yeah.
      No video update today, sorry.      Read more

    • TravelerDiane’s Camino Frances
      1111
      Day 20

      Belorado to San Juan de Ortega

      May 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      Today was tough in many ways. I had an early start as there was no accommodation available to be booked in San Juan de Ortega so I had to hope I’d get to the municipal albergue before it was full.

      On my way to Espinosa del Camino I passed Sandra from Germany who we had met in Orisson. We chatted a bit and made plans to have dinner together in Burgos on Thursday night with the Australian Sandra. While I was having breakfast in Espinosa del Camino she arrived and in that short space of time she had news from home that her father had died and she was going home. She gave me her rock to carry on to the Cruz de Ferro. I continued on and it was hard to shake the sadness. But I was so pleased that I had bumped into her at just that time. The remainder of the walk was 12 kms without any towns and the last half without shade again. It is getting very hot in the afternoons now. There is rain forecast for the end of the week but still high temperatures.

      The good news is that I arrived at the albergue before it filled and even got a bottom bunk. It’s a large room with 11 bunk beds so might be a noisy night with 22 of us. But it’s clean and friendly and the shower was hot. I had a (wine free) communal pilgrim dinner and sat with a young woman who came from Stroud in Gloucestershire and it was a good end to the day.

      Monasterio de San Juan de Ortega
      24kms      Read more

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