Atarrabia

How's it going, I'm on cloud nine.

Chanced a 'not the main route but more scenic' detour coming into Pamplona which followed a linear park for a really long time, it felt like I was on the outskirts of the city half the day. It was lovely but I really missed the reassurance of all the waymarkings on the normal route. They are so good I never have to look at my map, where as this thing had me second guessing everything. At one stage a nice couple came to help as I clearly looked useless, and the scallop shell, I suspect, makes people a bit easier on you. You're a stupid tourist but at least you're doing it slowly and quietly.

Having said that there's been a marked difference in the interest rural versus city locals pay us. Until Pamplona, you couldn't really get past an old man (it's almost always an old man) out for a walk without covering yes I'm doing the Camino yes I started in SJPP yes it was quite steep coming over the mountains wasn't it, oh I'm from Australia, yes very far away spot on, buen camino, muchas gracias, adios. Once I hit the city outskirts nobody gave me a second look. Probably for the best, if I'd needed to have that convo with everyone I passed I'd still be out there.

Got a bunk at Jesus y Maria, the biggest albergue in town I think, with 100+ beds built into the naves of an old church. It's pretty stunning but the same acoustics that make those hymns pop are going to be fun tonight. Earplugs running a close second in the MVP stakes. Washing machines were freeeeeee so I gave all my stuff a go, had a really good shower, and day around in shorts and wet hair waiting for my stuff back. Feeling the cleanest I've been since Hobart, I wandered around Pamplona for a few hours, buying food for when I assume the city shuts down due Good Friday tomorrow.

Back at the J&M pad, I've spent 40 minutes in very shattered French and English with the 64yo guy from Paris that's cycling instead of walking. He's got '20 days' but not really, he's retired and he hasn't booked his train home yet, I think he's just trying to make me feel better. I've seen him in SJPP and Zubiri and now today. He had to stay back a day at the start due to rain, so he did SJPP to Zubiri, Zubiri to Pamplona, and tomorrow will smush another two days into one by going to Estella, so I won't see him again. He said there's an Easter procession at 8pm from the cathedral we are extremely close to, and we made loose plans to go together. By which I mean I said I'd come and I have no idea if that landed.

Pamplona, by the way, is SO similar to Naples, vibe wise, which is a huge surprise but given I bloody adore Naples it's a nice one. Going to try to go out for dinner tonight, which is a bit of a tightrope to walk given restaurants close 5pm to 8pm and the albergue locks the doors at 11pm. Reckon I can do it though, and I can afford a late one because I don't have to walk tomorrow! Should probably allow time for getting up to the top bunk though, I think my thighs might actually explode and that'll require some clean up.Read more