Spain
Baiona

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    • Day 12

      Day 8 on the Camino

      October 5, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

      We departed our Baiona hotel as the sun was rising and walked along the beautiful coastline for sometime, and crossed over the river on an ancient foot bridge in Ramallosa. Then the path took us beside the highway for a long time. We stopped for a lovely lunch of salad with tuna, padron peppers and garlic mushrooms. We arrived for the night in Vigo, a city of over 300,000 population on a busy Friday night where friends were gathered everywhere for drinks and snacks.Read more

    • Day 15

      Spätbericht

      May 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Heute mal endlich in Gesellschaft gelaufen. Ca 35 km geschafft und Galicien ist einfach wunderschön. War mit nem Slowaken und einer Ukrainerin unterwegs. Noch ca 120 km bis Santiago. Weiß aber noch nicht ob ich nicht vorher schon abbiege. Letztes Jahr war mehr Spirit, viel mehr Nationen und am Meer mischt es sich eben mit Urlaubern und Touristen.

      Ging heute wieder durch Wald und Berge. Geregnet hatte es heute auch mal am Nachmittag. Bei gute Kleidung und dem Geschwitze angenehme Abwechslung

      💋

      Grüße
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    • Day 9

      Awe and Anticipation

      October 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

      Leaving Baiona was hard today- what a lovely coastal town with its harbor and churches. We bid the Virxe da Rocha (a 15 meter tall Madonna outdoor sculpture) and our sweet little hostel goodbye for now with the hope to come back one day. We’ve gotten into a routine of getting out the door and searching for the nearest café to grab a coffee and a pastry before hiking away but this morning the rain was so intense that we lingered a little longer hoping for some respite. We were even approached by a young guy who tried to coax us into his car so that he could drive us to Vigo since, as he told us, he worked there. No chance but thankyou kindly we responded- we are committed to this pilgrimage! And off we went sloshing along through the streets with our faithful ponchos (who were never removed today!) I felt my guardian angel working hard keeping me safe several times during our hike so I hope I’m keeping her wings dry with my poncho too. (Ah- the thoughts that come to mind when you walk and walk!) The rain was intense and never ending but we did manage 18 miles. We walked through quiet country lanes, high forest paths, along rivers and across bridges. Between Baiona and Nigrán there is a quaint medieval bridge with 10 arches and in the center of the bridge is a cross (cruceiro) with a statue of San Telmo (Saint Elmo), who is the patron saint of sailors- like Richard! Some of the rivers we passed were the Guillade, the DaGrobe and the Miño-
      We are seeing so many of the ancient crosses along the way- some attached to churches or merely on the side of the road. We noticed today that many of them have carvings front and back so we check each one and try to discern the meaning of each one. The saddest ones, I believe, are the ones who have Our Blessed Mother Mary holding baby Jesus on one side and then we see the crucified Christ on the other side- the combination of these two events on one cross is powerful and painfully sad. We also have visited and prayed at some cemeteries and today were struck that some more recent graves are crowned with ancient carved crosses probably repurposed from previous older graves?
      Some of the churches we have tried to enter have been locked - it’s a sad commentary on our world that one cannot just enter our churches!! But these are precious treasures to be protected and so when they are open we rejoice at an entry granted.
      A little aside about the daily life we see here in Spain- I’m intrigued by the little bakeries we pass. Some are named « Pandelarias » and some are « Pastelarias » Not sure of the difference! Also as we’ve passed through towns we’re been entertained by the baguette delivery here- they just hook a bagged baguette (sorry couldn’t resist) on the front door handle of the homes - what a good system!
      Our afternoon was spent tramping in the mud mostly through forests that were fairylike in appearance- full of ferns and mossy rocks and waterfalls- the birds sang us along and the smell which was a combination of fresh rain and eucalyptus trees was intoxicating. And we spied a rainbow even through the rain. We also saw the Fonte de Medõna which was used as a water stop for thirsty pilgrims. Once we got back down closer to Vigo there was more farmland and now we have sheep! Arriving in Vigo we took advantage of a Menú del Diá and wolfed down some cauliflower soup, fried fresh fish, some flan and a glass of vino (for me!) all for 12Euro. Exhaustion had overpowered us now so no sightseeing but we’ll try in the morning. Hoping our hiking boots and clothes dry tonight. Tomorrow we are beginning the last 100 K of our pilgrimage- apparently we will see more pilgrims and we are just so inspired to continue heading towards Santiago de Compostela. As we get closer our
      anticipation is heightening- Please keep us in your prayers- you are all in ours!! Xoxoxo
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    • Day 8

      Caminha (Portugal) to Oia (Spain)

      April 28 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

      This morning we took a small 6-passenger water taxi across the Rio Minho into Spain. We chatted on the trail with people we had met earlier as well as new fellow pilgrims. Again, there was a variety of paths, and the day wasn’t too long — about 12 miles, taking about 6.5 hours with breaks. There were almost no services along the route, so we ended up eating snacks instead of a real lunch. (Note to selves: make sure to carry more food in our packs!) Arriving in the tiny seaside village of Oia quite hungry, we were dismayed to find the only two restaurants had just closed — but our hotel was at least serving drinks, which we supplemented with a bag of chips. We found a self-service washer and dryer, and washed a large load of our dirty clothes. Finally 8 pm rolled around, and we were the first two in the restaurant!Read more

    • Day 75

      Baiona - ein kleines Paradies

      June 26, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      Endlich wieder spanischen Boden unter den Füßen oder eher Sand zwischen den Zehen. Nach den paar Tagen Portugal freuten wir uns wieder sehr auf Spanien. Vorallem können wir uns wieder mit spanisch verständigen. Da wir die nächsten Tage Besuch aus Deutschland erhalten haben wir einen schönen Campingplatz auf einer kleinen Landzunge gebucht. Baiona. Heißt das kleine Örtchen. Auf der einen Seite geht die Sonne im Meer unter und auf der anderen Seite geht sie im See auf. Ein kleines Paradies. Und vorallem haben wir einen Stellplatz mit Meerblick einfach ein Traum. Wir bereiteten alles für unseren Besuch vor, mailo half dem Papa beim Zeltaufbau, wir ruhten uns ein wenig aus und genossen die Sonnenaufgänge sowie Sonnenuntergänge.Read more

    • Day 9

      Bruce Christenson 1943-2022 ❤️

      September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

      My Dad passed away October 18, 2022 very suddenly. When I told him I wanted to walk the Camino….he said “I’ll come”, no hesitation.
      I booked my trip in January 2023.
      I brought some of his ashes with me, and scattered them at Praia dos cristais de Silleiro. It was the perfect place. He was a collector of beach glass, loved going on holiday to the beach and even lived at the beach for awhile.
      The last time I saw my Dad, we went to Grimsby beach to see the “Painted Ladies”. While we were there I picked up a stone and took it home. I’m not sure why I did that, I don’t collect stones or seashells. I painted that stone in memory of my Dad and left it at Hito de Mougas.
      Rest in Peace Dad, I miss you ❤️
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    • Day 8

      Day 7 - Oia to Baiona

      June 7 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

      I woke up this morning with a blister on my right big toe. I'm unsure how you develop a blister in your sleep, but I have managed to do so.

      It isn't life threatening, and I have a bag of tricks in my footcare bag. Mostly it is annoying as it ends an epic number of kilometers without any blisters at all.

      I read my daily motivation app for today. It was written by Marcus Aurelius. "If you are distressed by anything external, the pain is not due to the thing itself, but to your estimate of it; and this you have the power to revoke at any moment."

      I tucked that away after applying it to my big toe. Later this morning there were several of us from last night's alburgue all at a cafe together. We were discussing our aches and pains and how we were addressing them more with attitude than with medicine. I showed them the quote. It was screenshot and read in about four different languages.

      ***

      The sunset last night was beyond spectacular. It continued to deepen in color after the sun disappeared. It was a perfect ending to my first day back to Galicia.

      This morning I didn't feel quite as chipper. After putting on my backpack and heading back to the Camino path I realized I was tired. There is a weariness that happens after consecutive days of walking or working. It is why we need days of rest, which is something I haven't scheduled into these first two weeks. I don't have the liberty or time to add days at this point, so I will have to manage my rest time in creative ways.

      I turned on my mini-recorder that I keep in the pocket on my left shoulder with my glasses. I had a mini-bitch session where I aired all my frustrations and judgements that had surfaced through the night like my blister. Then I turned off my recorder and let them go.

      The next hour took me up the coast, just me and my shadow. It was a perfect morning for turning around and seeing where I had been and how far I had come.
      By the time I found the first open cafe most of my housemates from last night caught up with me. We flowed in conversation and steps, giving each other a listening year or space when needed. I treasured their companionship today.

      There were other treasures to be found on The Way - scarecrows, painted rocks, windmills, lighthouses, and churches.

      Once I arrived in Baiona I toured two churches built right next to each other. One was a Romanesque style from the 13th century. The second was 17th century with an Italian plateresque style (I had to look that up). It was built to venerate the Saint Liberata, who, according to legend, was one of nine sisters (born at the same time). Her mother thought her husband was having an affair so she decided to drown their daughters by having them thrown into the river. However, the midwife decided to give the infant girls to Christian families in different towns. The girls grew up and were persecuted for their faith with all of them being martyred except for Liberata. But after living in the wilderness in her retirement years she was captured and crucified in Portugal. So this church has that going for them... as well as a giant statue of St James above the altar depicting him as the Moor slayer.

      I think I preferred the scarecrow and the painted rocks today.

      ***

      It's my parent's 60th wedding anniversary. I am missing celebrating with them. Today I miss my family a lot. As much as I love being here, the best place in the world is always with your loved ones.

      I won't see the sunset this evening. It has started to downpour. I'm hoping it clears by tomorrow morning as it is another long day of walking, but the forecast is for rain all day.

      Ultreia et Suseia!
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    • Day 10

      Miercoles (Thats Spanish for Wednesday)

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

      So. It’s possible I over estimated my ability to converse in Spanish. I noticed it this morning in the breakfast room of my “Charm hotel” (more on that momentarily). There were 4 other women who spoke ONLY Spanish- no English. I clearly had my work cut out for me! One of them asked me where I was from. “Los Estados Unidos”, I replied. “Y tu?”.
      “A Canita” she said. “”Adonde es?” I asked. I had never heard of the country A Canita. Her look clearly screamed, “Stupido Americano!” She said “Sud America!” Then I realized she was saying Argentina.
      So what the tour company called a charm hotel was actually a bed and breakfast type place in this tiny town called Oia. When I checked in the hostess said there was only one restaurante in town for dinner and did not open until 8:00. I decided to forego that and went to a frutería and picked up some apples, chips, and cookies and brought it back to my room. Dinner is served! On the way to the little store I had to cross by this area of the shore where there was a huge pile of seaweed and who knows what else. The stench coming off of that was stomach turning and the flies were all over me. Yuck.
      As I spent more time in this little room I realized that it smelled like my mom’s house. And that is NOT a warm, fuzzy association. So needless to say, I was ready to go this morning.
      A 13 mile walk today. Met a couple of peregrinos. Nathan from Colorado walking with his mother, (such a good boy) and a couple of women- one from Rochester, MN. Many beautiful parts, a good climb or two, (I really like the climbs. Love how strong my legs feel), and an unexpected pleasant surprise coming into the beautiful town of Baiona.. I believe that this is where the ship The Pinta departed from and it was the place that news of the discovery of the New World first came. In fact, today was a national holiday commemorating that event. As I walked into town, I heard shots being fired. Looking around, no one was ducking for cover, so I nervously continued, but then a couple of really big booms that had to have been cannons. So I’m pretty sure they were having some kind of celebration down at the docks. (Can’t get much past this girl!).
      I’m staying in a Parador- the first of 4 that I will stay in on this trip. The paradors are all built in historic structures. This particular one is in an old castle. I fell in love with the Parador system on my previous trip to Spain in 2003. (One of the few things I remember from that trip. I was a hot mess due to my marriage coming to an end. But I digress…)
      I came upon a little group of sheep- all huddled together. Amid the cluster was a small wounded lamb, clearly suffering. All the other sheep were surrounding him as if to reassure and comfort him. There’s a metaphor or two in that scene.
      I used to think that a walking tour of a country would be really limiting in what you would be able to see. But since I’ve been walking I realize just how much MORE I see. I mean I’m pretty sure that I would have just driven by that backyard full of creepy Carnival characters (see below) and not even noticed!
      I did find the place to lay Kate’s stone today.
      The day ended with news that our old grand dog, Bruce Wayne, had crossed over. I will be praying for the Wertish family as I walk today.
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    • Day 27

      A day off #camino

      June 7, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

      #7camino Having a day off walking and after overnight rain I am hoping weather will be ok for the next part of my Camino. Baiona is a lively little port and a walk around the castle takes you to tiny beaches and provides great views of the Islas Cies. Baiona is famous because it was the first place to hear of the ‘discovery’ of the New World on March 1, 1493 and a replica of Columbus’s Pinta is in the harbour.
      PS I have solved my coffee dilemma.. large espresso +a little milk. I am trying to do a bit of planning for Barcelona, later in the month so any tips appreciated!🙂
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    • Day 28

      Vigo

      May 14 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

      Die ganze Nacht ging der Sturm und um 4 Uhr früh regnete es wieder. Ich hätte dann beinahe verschlafen, wachte erst um 7:10 auf. Also musste ich mich schon beeilen, wieder einige km vor dem großen Regen zurückzulegen. 7:30 war ich unterwegs und Frühstück nahm ich während dem Gehen zu mir. Was passierte durch die Hektik? Genau, hab wieder was liegen gelassen, 😖diesmal mein Drybag zum Wäschewaschen und den 4 Klupperln. Naja, der nächste soll sich freuen, ich kauf nur noch eine Seife.
      Um 8 Uhr regnete es bereits voll , nun hieß es immer wieder Poncho an, aus,....
      Dann traf ich die 2 Polen, Ted und Henry ( IT Spezialist und Arzt )bei einer Bushaltestelle im Hütterl sitzen und jausnen. Von da an gingen wir dann zusammen nach Vigo, vorbei am Stadion Balaidos,
      die Heimstätte des spanischen Fußballvereins Celta Vigo zu unserem Pilgerhostel. Der Weg heute war kaum ausgeschildert und wir mussten nach App laufen, das bei dem Regen unter Poncho nicht so leicht war.
      Nachdem es dann aufhörte zu regnen und ein wenig die Sonne rauskam, machten wir 3 uns auf zum Essen. Hervorragende Pimientos de Padron und für mich Calamares und Tinto de Verano. 🍷
      Wenn es nicht so regnete, hätten wir die vorgelagerten Inseln und die 2 spanischen Galerien davor sehen können.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Baiona, ባዮና, بايونا, Bayona, باینا, Բայոնա, バイヨーナ, Байона, 바이오나, BYN, 拜奥纳

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