Spanien
Estella-Lizarra

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    • Dag 12

      Estella

      16 september 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

      Kolejny piękny dzień. Do tej pory żaden dzień nie był łatwy wręcz przeciwnie każdy zaskakuje przeróżnymi trudnościami głównie fizycznymi i również tym że nie można niczego zrobić szybciej, więcej lub lepiej, niż możliwości twoich nóg. Wprowadzenie sie w taki stan wymusza bardzo pokorne myślenie. Pomału oddalają się emocję i troski, które są mało ważne, a krystalizuje się prawdziwy cel tej pielgrzymki. Próba odnalezienia poprzez drogę Jakuba drogi do Boga jest niewątpliwie dużym wyzwaniem ale bardzo potrzebnym dla mnie. Myślę, że znalazłem swoje Camino w końcu.
      Mijaliśmy piękne miasteczka, niektóre zachowane prawie bez zmian z czasów średniowiecza, czasami droga prowadziła poprzez pozostałości dróg rzymskich, gdzie tylko szczątki budowli dawaly znać, jak to było dawno i fakt, że jeszcze można to dotknąć daje piękno w głowie.
      Pierwsze miasteczko Puente La Reina. Nazwane tak od mostu. Później poprzez malutkie osady zwykle osadzane na stromych górkach dotarliśmy do Estella. Za dawnych czasów to była taka mała Pamplona. Dzięki pielgrzymom tętniła życiem. Były głównie 3 osady: Franków, Nawaryjczykow i Żydów. W 1328 roku populacja Żydowska zmniejszyła się prawie do zera na skutek rzezi. Również w XIV wieku miasto skurczyło się do połowy dzięki ospie.
      Otoczona była zamkami obronnymi i pilnującymi porzadku i bezpieczeństwa a prowadzonych przez Joannitów i Templariuszy. Niestety z zamków nic nie zostało. Estella również ma święto biegania z bykami i jest pod patronatem Sw. Andrzeja w sierpniu Miasto jest położone nad rzeką Eba. Bardzo urokliwe.
      Po drodze mieliśmy dużo okazji do kosztowania fig, jerzyn i winogron.
      Jutro czeka nas fontanna z winem.
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    • Dag 7

      Day 5 Puenta la Reina to Estella

      21 april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

      Puente La Reina to Maneru to Curaqui to Lorca to Villatuerta to Estella. 15 miles in 6.5 hours. 36,726 steps. Today was a beautiful sunny day, with 2 steep hills and several smaller hills in between. Sensing a theme? The countryside was beautiful, with some olive trees, huge fields of mustard plants, and bright red poppies all along the path. Passed more cute towns and some huge churches that looked like mini fortresses. Oddly enough, churches were closed to visitors on Sunday, other than at mass time. So were pretty much all stores and restaurants until we got to Estella. Thank goodness for a few Albergues on the way with sandwiches and tortillas. Estella had 3 restaurants and one tiny market open.

      Stayed in a nice albergue in the “glamping” section, but had an interesting night of little sleep. First a large group of New Zealanders were partying until 1 am on the patio outside my window, and then the woman below me had night terrors twice with a lot of whimpering and 2 bloodcurdling screams that woke us all in panic and brought the hospitalerio in checking things out. then she left at 4:30 am and another person at 5:30 am, both making little effort to be quiet. Insult to injury, she took my socket adaptor when she left (I let her plug into it along with my phone cord). I’m glad I brought my power bank since it’s not something I can buy until I’m in a bigger city in 2 days. Karma got her though because she left 2 pairs of socks and underwear and a pair of pants behind. In all seriousness, I hope she’s ok.

      Tomorrow is a big day at 17.5 miles and more big hills, so I’m off to bed shortly.
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    • Dag 14

      Estella

      8 maj, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      Day 6 Estella Spain
      Distance from Puente La Reina to Estella 25kms

      A challenging walk today up steep rocky paths descending into rolling meadows of rye rapeseed and vineyards. We passed roadside caravans selling food/refreshments to pilgrims through numerous quaint villages crossed Roman bridges and breathed in the delightful country air. The days are warming today reaching 25c we were grateful of any shade. A long day tomorrow (30kms) and our longest to date.
      These boots were made for walking and that’s just what we’ll do.
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    • Dag 8

      Etapa 6: Estella - Los Arcos

      27 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

      Empezamos el día con lluvia. A ponerse el poncho, que para eso está. La próxima vez que haga el Camino en Estrella me quedaré en este sitio (Estella Rooms) en vez de dormir con 4 en la misma habitación en la Hosteria 😅Läs mer

    • Dag 10

      Estella

      14 september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

      We decided to take a rest day today before a long day tomorrow. Took a short 2.7 mile walk into Estella and then had a great day hanging with friends, visiting the Decathlon store for a couple of things and then more hanging out until a Pilgrim’s dinner. It was a really fun, chill day and well deserved.Läs mer

    • Dag 9

      Etappe 6 - Los Arcos 1

      20 september 2022, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

      Heute Nacht konnten einem fast Mordgedanken kommen. Wir hatten einen Mitschläfer im Zimmer der fast sieben Stunden geschnarcht hat und noch andere Laute von sich gab. Habe fast nicht geschlafen.
      Trotzdem ging es heute 6.30 Uhr auf die nächste Etappe. Kurzes Frühstück unterwegs und dann kam schon das Kloster Irache. Am Weinbrunnen kurze Rast mit einem Becher Wein (lecker) und der Tag ist nochmal so schön.
      Weiter ging es durch kleine, idyllische Bergdörfer, abgeerntete Felder, vorbei an Weinbergen und durch Olivenhaine.
      Das Wetter ist traumhaft: Sonnenschein, blauer Himmel und leichter Wind. Richtiges Pilgerwetter.
      Jetzt kurze Rast an einem Food Truck- und weiter geht's Richtung Los Arcos.
      Sind gegen 12 Uhr gut angekommen. Stehen nun in der Schlange der Pilger, welche alle gern ein Bett in der Pilgerherberge haben möchten.
      Bett ergattert! Schlafsaal mit 34 Personen, drei Duschen, drei Toiletten. Mal sehen wie diese Nacht verläuft.
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    • Dag 16

      Puenta la Reina to Estella

      19 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

      After a great dinner last night at the very busy restaurant below where we were staying we headed to bed ready for another early start. For dinner I had the lamb mid loin chops as did Lee and they were so delicious. Our favourite meal to date!
      We set off early this morning to a blue bird day full of energy (sort of!) and the thrill of another new day not knowing where we would be going. Getting our feet prepared for a long day of walking is quite a rigmarole. First it's rubbing them with vicks vaporub,then applying any blister plasters or toe gel protection and then the socks and shoes. Thankgoodness we have shoes a size bigger then normal as there is a lot of foot to fit in!
      The day was the hottest to date but we set off 730am in the cool of the day and had quite an uphill climb to get the heart going. Beautiful though with old roman bridges,grape vines laden with grapes,olive trees laden with olives and rolling hills with the odd castle on top.
      The funny thing is that all the dear villages you are aiming for to get refreshments are always up on top of a bloody steep hill! I guess the Romans needed to sit high up to guard against the enemy. They were not thinking of us baby boomers walking the Camino needing a drink. The drink we are loving is the freshly squeezed orange. Almost beats 🍷.
      So again up hill and down dale we walked 21km and in the heat. We passed some amazing vege gardens and note the size of the pumpkins! Finally we got into Estella at about 230 pm. Estella is such a pretty city with the river running through,beautiful old buildings and a wonderful centre square where we dined. The little children all playing in the square with old and young promenading and the church bells ringing. So warm and a beautiful meal and wine to boot. We even had Lee reciting Sam Hunt poetry so we were not feeling too homesick!
      Home now and tired but great to tick another day off. Today I saw on my watch I had done 33000 steps. Time for bed.
      Love all your messages and feel like you are with us all the way! Buenos noches
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    • Dag 11

      Day 7- To Sansol…we crushed it!

      6 oktober 2023, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 57 °F

      Here is what we have learned so far. Get up early, lighten your load, don’t wear wet socks, don’t lose your sunglasses. We got up early, packed up Agnus and Genevieve (our backpacks) to lighten our load, leaving yet more stuff we thought we needed. Goodbye blanket Joan bought in SJPP, who needs three chargers, a towel or more socks.

      We crushed today! So proud of ourselves. We completed 14 miles/23 km and arrived at our final destination the earliest we have ever arrived. It was hot, sweaty, dusty and we were plagued by black flies. Joan sang to me and told me stories anytime we passed an old rock wall. We arrived in Los Arcos had a beer in the main square and smiled. And Joan and I got to FaceTime Kenzie and Fabi and wish Kenzie a Happy Birthday. She has been instrumental in helping as find places to stay as we are too tired to look stuff up.

      At our Albergue in Sansol we washed our clothes, had time to update Penguins and just sit a minute. In the last week this afternoon has been the only downtime we have had. No time to journal, have reflective thoughts or contemplate our future. It’s amazing we are off to Lograno in the morning. And Camino friends invited to a Michelin star restaurant for dinner tomorrow night. Buen Camino!
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    • Dag 11

      Both Feeling Sick Now in Los Arcos

      28 september 2023, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

      They say the Camino offers us lessons, and our job is to learn them. Our lesson right now is in humility and acceptance. There’s not much you can really do to show a virus who’s boss; clearly the virus is! 🦠 David had two feverish nights in a row and congestion and cough. But he does seem to be improving so he suggested we walk a bit today and then taxi the rest of the way. It was all fun and games until my joints started to ache and my tummy got upset, sure signs of a fever in my body. We walked about half of the way to Los Arcos and then we got a soda at one of the bars and asked them if they could call a taxi for us. We are very happy to be in our little apartment in Los Arcos. They even have one of those little under counter washer dryer units. We are very excited! We are hoping to wash laundry tonight in the machine!!!

      Today we passed Irache, a little town that has a free wine fountain. Like they put 10 liters of wine in it every morning and people can just serve themselves. They say you should pour wine into your pilgrim’s scallop shell. I don’t know how well that works since most people have their shell tied firmly onto their backpack. We had a late start today because we spent some time at the Pharmacy which doesn’t open until 9:00 am. So we missed the big clump of early departure pilgrims. But we kept passing and falling behind a Spanish couple. At Irache the wife opened her mouth under the wine fountain and drank enough that she was pretty drunk, singing at the top of her lungs along the trail. Her husband was getting really annoyed with her. Maybe the wine fountain should come with a warning label!! We didn’t try the wine ourselves but like every single pilgrim, we had to check it out and take pictures of it!!

      Today was the first day that was kind of emotionally rough. We’ve had plenty of hard physical days! They say the repeated physical challenges is what makes the Camino a spiritual experience, I guess kind of like what fasting is supposed to do in a lot of spiritual traditions. For me today had some revelations about acceptance. Of course I know in my head that David’s cognitive state is in decline, and that I need to accept that some of our dreams for the future just aren’t going to be. And I know I’m my mind that I need to really take care of my own physical, mental, and spiritual health so I can be there for him. But something about being sick myself and worried about being physically unable to be Super Woman really drove it home today and I was feeling all teary. It sounds weird but I think actually accepting our reality emotionally is quite a positive change. Anyway, not to be all woo woo and over sharing, but I think it’s all part of being here.

      Coming up on the town where we agreed we’d call a taxi was so great today! When we saw the tower on the church in town and then found a bar with cold drinks it was about as good as anything can ever get! It’s in the mid-80°s with little shade and hotter than one might think.
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    • Dag 12

      Estella

      11 september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Day 8 and 9 Estella - Arrived here, in Estella, yesterday via Lorca and Villatuerta - small towns with prominent churches. The walk was quite uneventful with the usual ups and downs through fields and of course laden fig trees, olive trees and grape vines.
      Today I wandered around Estella and saw it’s beautiful old buildings. The tourist office is in a Baroque Palace and the town museum that houses the works of Gustavo de Maeztzu is in the former Romanesque palace of The Kings of Navarre. There were also two churches to see after climbing 100s of stairs - and being a Sunday, everything was only open from 11:30am - 2pm! Needless to say I had a busy afternoon!
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