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  • Day13

    Fisterra, Spain

    June 4, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Fisterra is on Cape Finisterre, the final destination for many pilgrims on the El Camino de Santiago (Way of St. James).
    The Camino Finisterre, an extension to the Camino de Santiago, takes an additional three to four days, to complete the pilgrimage to the medieval "end of the world." 
    We walked the 3km from town to Cape Finisterre - rewarded constantly with beautiful coastal views with the gorgeous shades of blue and torquoise water.
    It was inspiring to see those who had made the journey here walk to the furthest point possible, take their photos, (some burn their clothes and shoes) humbly turn around to head back in the direction they came from. We asked one lady how far she had journeyed - she and her friend (both mature in age) left France on 1 April and travelled 1, 515km to get to this point some two months and 4 days later! Amazing achievement!

    Fisterra is a beautiful fishing village with lots of narrow streets winding down to the water. Lovely restaurants and cafés.... and churros with hot chocolate! A nice relaxed atmosphere here.
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  • Day18

    To the End of the Earth

    October 5, 2018 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    One quite amazing feature of our hotel in Santiago is that it features a “24 hour breakfast buffet”. I had never previously heard of this innovative idea, however it is actually quite simple. Instead of breakfast only being available between certain hours (eg 7.30 to 10.00 am), the buffet is available at any time of the day or night. This would even make it possible to save valuable time each morning, by having your breakfast before going to bed.

    After completing our walk to Santiago yesterday, it was a huge relief not to have to don my serious walking shoes and backpack once more. I was even able to leave my walking pole in my room. With sandals on my feet and nothing on my back it almost felt like flying.

    Our day began with a guided tour of the old city precinct with a local expert guide who introduced herself as Maria. She certainly was a huge reservoir of information and proceeded to teach us about the place at every opportunity. When she explained that confessions would be heard that morning in the cathedral “in seven languages”, I couldn’t help but wonder how people got on who were not able to speak seven languages. (Sometimes my mind just works that way).

    She also explained that the cathedral is being seriously damaged because, some years ago, much of the roof area was covered with concrete. Although this might have seemed like a bright idea at the time, it actually caused damage because the building was no longer able to breathe. Expensive restoration works are now underway to remove the concrete layer and replace it with something more akin to what was originally installed about 900 years earlier. Another example where the original builders really knew what they were doing after all.

    After a couple of hours of this serious touring, my brain reached memory overload and I was really glad that I could finally wander off by myself for a little respite. There were a couple of small matters that I wanted to attend to. The first of these was to receive my final stamp in my pilgrim passport. Douglas pointed me in the direction of the pilgrim office , so I went in the door with my passport in hand. The only trouble was that about 400 others had arrived before me and had formed a huge queue snaking throughout the building. It looked like a line of football supporters waiting for finals tickets.

    Since I did not want to spend all day waiting in a line, and since I was not interested in getting a piece of parchment paper, I invoked the well known “Plan B”. In another room there was a much shorter line to a man sitting at a cash register. In a very short time I reached the front and explained that all I wanted was a little stamp. He understood perfectly and dutifully proceeded to stamp front and back of my black book. It was all over.

    The other task I wanted to do was to spend more time inside the cathedral. We had spent so much time walking to the resting place of St James, that I thought I had better at least pay him my respects. At the entrance door I had to get past, not one, but two gypsy “beggars” who had almost succeeded in making entrance impossible without paying their own form of admission price. It really seemed a shame that this behaviour was allowed.

    Once inside I spent some time gazing at the ceiling and all the other adornments inside. I had to agree that the place really is huge. I could have spent a lot of time looking at all the minor chapels, statues and images, but I was looking for St James. When I saw a big queue I assumed that I must be on the right track. I joined the rear and slowly shuffled forward every few minutes. It was only when I got closer that I could see that the queue was not actually to see the crypt of St James, it was to hug the statue upstairs. Since I was not much interested in embracing a statue, I ducked out of the line of huggers and went downstairs to see St James instead.

    Once through the narrow doorway and down a few steps, I came to a grated opening where the silver casket of St James was situated maybe 4 metres away. On the floor there were numerous pieces of paper where pilgrims had left prayer requests or messages for the saint. I looked at the casket and wondered what (or who ) was really inside. The lid was firmly closed so the mystery will have to remain unanswered.

    With my two tasks thus completed, I felt that my mission here was finally over. There was, however, one other unfinished piece of business that I wanted to do on my final full day in Spain. I had not yet had a seafood paella. I found a nearby café that was willing to satisfy my curiosity and my hunger at the same time and I have to admit that it was fine eating.

    Although the prime objective for the Camino is to reach the Cathedral of Santiago, for many pilgrims there is a secondary objective as well. That is to continue walking until you can walk no more. That happens when you reach the Atlantic Coast at Finisterre. In Roman times this was regarded as the westernmost point of Europe and the name Finisterre literally means “End of the Earth”. That was where the maps finished and where the unknown began. It was Christopher Columbus who famously sailed into this unknown to discover the new worlds beyond.

    For a pilgrim to walk from Santiago to Finisterre it usually takes an additional 5 days of walking. For us it took a leisurely 90 minutes by bus. The rolling green hills along the way were liberally covered with eucalypts and pines and it made me feel like we could have been driving through parts of Victoria.

    Cape Finisterre is a beautiful spot, surrounded by steep cliffs dropping down to the ocean over 100 metres below. The late afternoon was warm, the sky cloudless and the air still. I sat on a rocky point and gazed out at the endless ocean and imagined how the ancients could really feel that this was the end of the world. I also took the time to think back over some of the events of the past three weeks. We had shared so much together in that time. Much of our walking time had been spent talking to fellow pilgrims and, for a brief time in our lives, everything was so simple – just keep walking westwards. And now we were here. This marked the end of chapter one of our adventure. Tomorrow morning most will be travelling to Portugal and the two Christines will be leaving to continue their own adventure.

    There was a tradition among pilgrims to burn all their old clothes when they reached the ocean. Presumably they would then start afresh and the rest of their lives would begin. Although the authorities are trying to stop this tradition (this is a high fire danger area after all), we noticed that pilgrims had left a number of items behind – boots, socks, walking poles, etc. Some of these had been tucked into the rocks.

    Then it was finally time to return to the bus for the very last time with Raoul. We were headed back to Santiago for our final night in Spain.

    After dinner some of us went for a walk back to the Cathedral. There were still hundreds of people there and we were attracted by the sounds of some nearby music. It turned out to be a group of colourfully dressed musicians who were playing a wide variety of stringed instruments and singing well known Spanish songs. Throngs of happy students were singing and clapping to the music. You would have had to have a stony heart not to feel touched.

    Somehow it felt like the perfect way to finish an amazing trip.

    Buen Camino indeed.
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  • Day25

    Suckers for punishment

    September 29, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today’s KMs - 29kms
    Total KMs - 591 kms
    Total blisters - 13

    One last day of walking... famous last words but this time I think we mean it. Today we walked just short of 30kms from Muxía to Finisterre. It was by far the wettest walk we have done with everything completely saturated. The coastline between Muxía and Finisterre is totally exposed to the Atlantic Ocean and we had head wind blowing rain into our faces for most of the way. Our “waterproof” goretex shoes and our “waterproof” jackets and bag covers were no match for Mother Nature today. My jacket was meant to be waterproof for up to 8 hours walking and 10mm of rain - not the case Cederberg!

    It was a beautiful walk though despite the rain especially the cape at Muxía which we walked to first thing this morning and it feels right to finish in Finisterre.

    We are off to the Cape Finisterre later tonight to hopefully see the sunset but not sure there will be much to see given the weather 🤞
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  • Day37


    September 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Tag 3 in Santiago
    Da ich nicht wirklich viel laufen kann und will, habe ich alle Pläne über Bord geworfen und bis 30.9. mein Zimmer im Harry-Potter-Schloss verlängert. Gestern Abend beim Abendessen mit Bernd beschlossen, mit dem Linienbus nach Finisterre zu fahren und abends zurück.
    Los ging es im strömenden Regen, aber in Finisterre kam tatsächlich die Sonne heraus und plötzlich war der Himmel strahlend blau!
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  • Day57

    Cee - Finisterra- Cap Fisterre 6.7.2018

    July 6, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Geschafft! Ich bin am Ziel! 😊

    Und Petrus hat auch noch ein Einsehen gehabt und mir das perfekte Wetter für den Abschluss meines Caminos geschenkt! Sonnenschein pur und superangenehme 24 Grad 😁 Also schöner hätte ich mir meinen letzten Tag einfach nicht wünschen können.

    Die Wanderung war heute ja eher ein ausgedehnter Spaziergang mit etwa 10 km. Aus Cee heraus ging es noch ein letztes Mal ordentlich steil heraus, der Rest der Strecke war aber Genuss pur 😊

    Und ich muss gestehen, als ich aus dem letzten Stück Wald kam, rechts um die Ecke bog, und plötzlich lag da das Meer und Finisterre in seiner vollen Pracht sonnenbeschienen unter bzw. vor mir - also das war dann doch ein unfassbar freudiger Moment! 😊 In diesem Moment war ich innerlich angekommen. An meinem Ziel. Dem, worauf ich seit fast 2 Monaten zugesteuert bin. Plötzlich lag es tatsächlich vor mir. Dieser Moment war wirklich unbeschreiblich schön.

    Direkt unter mir war eine kleine menschenleere Bucht. Ich dachte an Tarifa zurück, den Morgen, als ich vor dem Start noch runter an den südlichsten Zipfel des Strandes gegangen bin, dort mit beiden Füssen kurz im Wasser war und dann gestartet bin. Dort unten nun, in dieser kleinen Bucht, wollte ich mit meinen Füßen kurz im Atlantik stehen, um die Reise nicht nur innerlich, sondern auch von der Strecke her, für mich zu beenden. Nach dem Startpunkt in Tarifa am Mittelmeer den Schlusspunkt in Finisterre am Atlantik zu finden. Und zu setzen. Das machte ich dann. Es fühlte sich gut und richtig an.

    Später werde ich noch zum Leuchtturm hinauslaufen und den Sonnenuntergang genießen. Das sind dann nochmal 3 km hin und 3 km zurück. Die kommen auf die Gesamtstrecke noch drauf, die sich dann auf 1.307 km beläuft🚶🍀 Ansonsten ist das aber nur noch die Sahne auf der Kirsche, der Camino an sich ist beendet. Ich hoffe, das Wetter hält bis heute Abend durch.

    Es wäre zu schön.
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  • Day39

    Finisterre 34 km

    October 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Der Weg ist hier und jetzt zu ende. Mit vielen Gefühlen die es erst einzuordnen gilt, ist es Zeit mich vom Camino zu verabschieden. Sehr viele Hochs und nur wenig Tiefs durfte ich durchleben. Sehr viele Caminofreunde aus der ganzen Welt habe ich kennengelernt. Auf dem Weg gibt es nicht du oder ich, es gibt nur die Caminofamilie. Wer diesen Weg geht, der sagt dass eigentlich Leid und Krieg gar nicht möglich ist. Viel durfte ich erfahren, lernen, durchhalten, kennenlernen, abschied nehmen, die Natur spüren, ankommen, weitergehen, etc.....Nun kommt die Zeit der Ruhe und zurückzugehen zu meiner Familie, die mir die Kraft gab den Weg so gehen zu dürfen. Danke , Danke, Danke.
    Vorallem meiner lieben Frau Bea und meinen erwachsenen Kindern Patrick, Silvan und Claudio.
    Tschau Camino du hast mich stark Berührt.
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  • Day217

    Camino Frances 19 - Ankunft am Ziel

    September 1, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Heute Mittag bin ich am Ziel meines Camino Frances angekommen - am Kap Finisterre bei Kilometer Null. 😃🎉
    Damit habe ich nun insgesamt 860 Kilometer zurück gelegt.
    Gestern bin ich von Lago bis Cee gelaufen, so dass heute nur noch 16 km zu absolvieren waren.
    Bei strahlendem Sonnenschein und extrem viel Wind habe ich heute das sogenannte "Ende der Welt" erreicht und war (eher negativ) überrascht, dass zeitgleich auch drei Reisebusse mit Touristen ankamen. Trotzdem habe ich den Ausblick und die Atmosphäre genossen, bevor es zurück in den Ort ging. Finisterre ist nicht sonderlich groß, hat aber den typischen Charme eines Küstenortes bzw. Fischerdorfes.
    Nach 37 Tagen werde ich mich morgen zur Abwechslung mal wieder in einen Bus setzen und zurück nach Santiago fahren.
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  • Day35

    Am Ende der Welt

    May 11, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Trotz einiger Regentropfen, die schon Vormittags dem Sonnenschein gewichen sind, war auch heute Finisterre ein toller Ort für eine Pause. Nach einem kurzen Lauf zum Leuchtturm, an dem auch der 0 Kilometer Stein steht, war ich mit einer sehr netten Schweizerin im Hotel dort dann auch Essen. Ziemlich nobel und nicht ganz billig, aber es hat sich gelohnt. Irgendwo muss man ja sein Hechtfilet herbekommen, wenn schon mal Meer um einen ist ;-). Bis zum Dinner ist jetzt erst mal Siesta und morgen geht's weiter nach Muxia, also wirds wohl eher früh ins Bett gehen. Mal sehen...Read more

You might also know this place by the following names:

Fisterra, Finisterra, 15155, Фистерра

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