Spain
Foncebadón

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    • Day 31

      El Acebo

      October 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

      Today we hit a big milestone. We had breakfast and headed up to the highest point on the Camino, the Cruz de Ferro. It’s a spot where pilgrims have left a rock from their homeland in a huge pile for centuries. We both left our rock along with our wishes. It was very touching.

      We are in beautiful country now. The hills are rounded and very green. There was mist and fog most of the day. It rained a bit but not enough to need our punches. Tomorrow the chance of rain is 90%.

      We were concerned about this steep downhill section that has a lot of rocks and a bad reputation. We just took it slowly and carefully using our poles. I think the people who were concerned about that on the Internet have probably never hiked in Yosemite! It really wasn’t a problem at all. Tomorrow is more of the same downhill with rocks for the first five or 6 km. Then we have a flat walk into a city of 65,000 people called Ponferrada.pepeople.
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    • Day 25

      Foncebadon > Ponferrada

      October 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Only 26K but some TREACHEROUS downhills so took like 7 hours 😂 Passed the stone drop-y place but couldn't sacrifice protection rock else certain death would ensue imminently. Also quite fancying stabby mediaeval shoesRead more

    • Day 10

      Out of Foncebadon and into the mountains

      April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

      The night in the renovated convent was absolutely lovely. I feel so blessed for this beautiful weather across beautiful country.

      Just 2 km from our convent is the “Cruz de fierro”- the iron cross. This is a place where pilgrims place a stone or other symbolic item as a way to lay down their burden. It may be a memorial for a loved one, a personal quest, or a release.

      When we started planning for the Camino, we knew we wanted to come here. We both picked out stones from home and carried them in our pockets. We left the Albergue at 6:15 with the full sky of stars ⭐️ greeting us. We pass the field of sleeping cows and a pond of frogs that had been so noisy the night before. We made it to the cross as the sun rose.

      I brought 2 stones. A small rose quartz serves as a symbol of letting go of my heart ever being smaller than it truly is. To let go of hiding myself or my deeper emotions, to open to the beautiful extremes of life. We great joy comes great sorrow, with deep love comes deep loss. My emotions are my superpowers and I’m willing to stand up for them.
      A small oval stone I had painted in gold 🌀 spirals. It symbolized to me opening up to was beyond my imagination. What is beyond perception and doubt to what is truly felt and known in the spirit.
      I was truly touched by the hundreds of other burdens laid down - stones, shoes, rosaries 📿, jewelry, toys, flags….

      As we walked onward to the sun touching the tops of the mountains, we talked about what the experience meant to us and what we welcome with that release. It’s the kind of conversation I’m so glad to have with my life partner!

      At the top of one of the highest passes, there was a tiny coffee cart with fresh hard boiled eggs, espresso and other things. By mostly a view and a fire! 🔥

      We are starting to feel the challenge of the walk more now. At over 51,000 steps (18. 1 miles) today, I go to bed with a very sore knee. And not the one that has been injured the last 8 months! The stress from walking down very rough terrain is working that joint line. Luckily there was a farmacia at our ending point where the pharmacist looked at my knee and gave me a knee brace and some CBD/Arnica cream.

      And poor paul has an impressive blister on his toe .

      We are both trying to keep ahead with the sunscreen, tho it’s ☀️ still getting us with sweaty clothes and heat rash.

      Regardless, we remain very positive and grateful for the amazing accommodations available, for the community of pilgrims, for the drinkable tap water, for a soft bed and a hot shower. And for our continued support of each other.
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    • Day 26–27

      El Ganso to El Acebo (Cruz de Ferro)

      May 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Today was a special day. We reached Cruz de Ferro and placed our special rocks from home at the base. The Iron Cross marks the highest part of the mountain pass and has become the place where pilgrims the world over leave behind a stone brought with them from home or elsewhere on the camino.

      We knew this day would be a tough 25k as we went up and over the highest peak on our Camino, but we did not realize just how steep and rocky the decent from Cruz de Ferro would be. Luckily we were rewarded with some amazing views!
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    • Day 23

      Cruz de Ferro

      May 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Uno de los sitios más emblemáticos del Camino de Santiago. Y ciertamente es muy especial. Aquí he dejado la piedra que cogí en San Juan de Pie de Puerto y he llevado en mi mochila hasta hoy. Mucha gente dejando desde lágrimas hasta cenizas de seres queridos. Muy emotivo.Read more

    • Day 25

      Day 25: Astorga a Foncebadòn

      May 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      What a contrast my morning and my evening today. I write this from the floor of a chapel in the mountains as I lie on a mat.

      I left Astorga early in the morning at around 7.30. After an amazing night sleep, and a proper breakfast, I headed out late into the day after the sun had risen.

      I set off alone, in the knowledge that I will be walking into the mountains. Apprehensive as always about heading up into the skies, I walked at a brisk pace out of the city and soon found myself surrounded by wonderful nature. Icy forest greens, pines, lavender and yellow against the rich red clay earth, this would be one of the most beautiful days yet. I walk alone as always, and enjoy the feeling of strength and achievement that comes with walking any distance, and soon I am in the mountains.

      The day is peaceful, I run into Kolja at the first stop and we have a coffee, I also meet JP, and Melina and then I head off alone. I also run into JIM. I thought he had left at Leon, but he has decided to continue on. I am happy to see him.

      When I reach my intended destination it is 12, and I am still feeling good. I also feel trusting and happy, and I feel like I could continue. I also know that there are 5km to the next town, and I have only done about 20km today. I’m in a beautiful mountain town called Rabanal del Camino. The terrain has changed completely, now there are stone houses and streets and the landscape is dark green. It is also very cold, the coldest day so far, at only 5 degrees. I decide to continue on, and surrender myself to fate. I walk the next 5km straight up, and even start to feel a bit faint. I reach the beautiful mountain town of Foncebadon, and check the first hostel. Completo, she says. The next the same. I walk up to the parochial albergue and notice a queue of pilgrims. I am already behind a queue of bags too. Does it open soon? No they say, 2.30. Have you tried everything else in town? Yes!

      So I’m in the queue. At this point I am so cold that I take my sleeping bag out of my backpack and wrap it around myself, freezing rain falls. despite this, the pilgrims are happy. I am too? I know that I might not get a bed, and tomorrow is the Cruz de Ferro - An iconic point in the trip so far, this is the last stop on the way.

      Eventually, a super thin Italian sits next to me - his name is Simone. He, I and the rest of the queue are chatting. Finally the hospitalero shows up and tells us there are 18 beds and 8 on the floor. I get a bed, but I am the last. Behind me is a father and daughter, so I give them my bed so they can stay together. I am lucky to have space at all! I am on the floor currently, in a chapel on a mountain. Lucky I met Simone and he is an archaeologist, so I hear stories of Spanish history and architecture.

      The night ends with me next to snoring Jim in a freezing room, perhaps tomorrow the Cruz de Ferro will take on a whole new meaning.

      Wish me luck!
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    • Day 30

      Stage 27: Astorga-Foncebadón

      October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

      Another umpteen kms, probably about 26/16 some miles, the last 6 km/3.6 miles of which were up the side of a mountain, 9 hours, 46°-68°
      The idea being to go a little further today to make tomorrow's summiting of the highest point on the Camino easier. Tomorrow I'll get to the Cruz de Ferro, the highest elevation on the Camino. The elevation gain is spread out longer and starting from higher elevation to begin with, so not as tough as the Pyrenees but significant none the less. Aside from Santiago, the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross) may be the spiritual high point of the Camino, the place where centuries of pilgrims have left a stone or other memento representing a burden relinquished, a thanksgiving or prayer request. I have carried a little pouch of items to be laid there tomorrow, feel like I need to prepare. But first, shower, laundry and FOOD.Read more

    • Day 28

      Cruz de Ferro

      May 31, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

      People carry stones from home and leave them here as a way of relieving themselves of a particular burden. They also leave mementoes of loved ones.
      I already left my stone for Mum at the Virgin Mary statue in the PyreneesRead more

    • Day 84

      Fazit der 12. Woche

      June 11, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Wir befinden uns wieder auf 1‘432 m.ü.M. Und steuern auf den nächsten Höhepunkt das Cruz de Ferro zu. Will ich eine Rückblende machen fallen mir immer wieder die Begegnungen mit Menschen, aus vielen verschiedenen Ländern, alte und Junge auf. Diese Vielfältigkeit ist der wahre Schatz des Camino. Auch mein Camino geht langsam dem Ende zu und langsam werde auch ich mich vom Weg verabschieden müssen. So frage ich mich, was machte der Weg mit mir? Was bleibt vom Weg bei mir hängen? Einige Leute die ich getroffen haben waren schon mehrfach auf dem Camino. Ich bin ja auch schon das zweite Mal hier. Der Rekord hat aktuell einer der mir gesagt hat er sei das fünfte Mal auf dem Camino unterwegs. Die Antworten mag ich jetzt noch nicht geben, dafür ist es noch zu früh. Ich nehme sie aber mit in meinen Gedanken auf diesem „wunder“baren Weg nach Santiago. Euch wünsche ich eine gute Woche.
      Der noch Pilger Roland
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    • Day 20

      Camino Day 15 - Acebo

      September 8, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

      We left around 8am for a climb into the hills.
      It started out pretty ok, but soon turned into a bit of a hard slog uphill on rough terrain.
      Stopped in for a great breakfast an hour in.
      The scenery was a dramatic change from the last week's with Alpine hills and valleys.
      The track was quite rough and rocky, but considering there have been millions of people walking this track for hundreds of years it's not hard to see why it's the way it is.
      The main stop on this section is Cruz de Fero, where pilgrims leave a stone from their home country to signify leaving behind something they want to leave behind on the Camino.
      It was supposed to be a 16km day but turned into a 21km day once we arrived at our luxury albergue with a pool bar and restaurant, and still only 15 euros.
      They have agreed to switch the tv to the rugby tonight so we can catch the first game of the world cup, all blacks v France.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Foncebadón, Foncebadon, 24722

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