Foncebadón

What a contrast my morning and my evening today. I write this from the floor of a chapel in the mountains as I lie on a mat.

I left Astorga early in the morning at around 7.30. After an amazing night sleep, and a proper breakfast, I headed out late into the day after the sun had risen.

I set off alone, in the knowledge that I will be walking into the mountains. Apprehensive as always about heading up into the skies, I walked at a brisk pace out of the city and soon found myself surrounded by wonderful nature. Icy forest greens, pines, lavender and yellow against the rich red clay earth, this would be one of the most beautiful days yet. I walk alone as always, and enjoy the feeling of strength and achievement that comes with walking any distance, and soon I am in the mountains.

The day is peaceful, I run into Kolja at the first stop and we have a coffee, I also meet JP, and Melina and then I head off alone. I also run into JIM. I thought he had left at Leon, but he has decided to continue on. I am happy to see him.

When I reach my intended destination it is 12, and I am still feeling good. I also feel trusting and happy, and I feel like I could continue. I also know that there are 5km to the next town, and I have only done about 20km today. I’m in a beautiful mountain town called Rabanal del Camino. The terrain has changed completely, now there are stone houses and streets and the landscape is dark green. It is also very cold, the coldest day so far, at only 5 degrees. I decide to continue on, and surrender myself to fate. I walk the next 5km straight up, and even start to feel a bit faint. I reach the beautiful mountain town of Foncebadon, and check the first hostel. Completo, she says. The next the same. I walk up to the parochial albergue and notice a queue of pilgrims. I am already behind a queue of bags too. Does it open soon? No they say, 2.30. Have you tried everything else in town? Yes!

So I’m in the queue. At this point I am so cold that I take my sleeping bag out of my backpack and wrap it around myself, freezing rain falls. despite this, the pilgrims are happy. I am too? I know that I might not get a bed, and tomorrow is the Cruz de Ferro - An iconic point in the trip so far, this is the last stop on the way.

Eventually, a super thin Italian sits next to me - his name is Simone. He, I and the rest of the queue are chatting. Finally the hospitalero shows up and tells us there are 18 beds and 8 on the floor. I get a bed, but I am the last. Behind me is a father and daughter, so I give them my bed so they can stay together. I am lucky to have space at all! I am on the floor currently, in a chapel on a mountain. Lucky I met Simone and he is an archaeologist, so I hear stories of Spanish history and architecture.

The night ends with me next to snoring Jim in a freezing room, perhaps tomorrow the Cruz de Ferro will take on a whole new meaning.

Wish me luck!Baca lagi