Hiszpania
Frómista

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    • Dzień 18

      Etappe 15 - Ledigos

      29 września 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

      Heute sechs Uhr Beginn der Pilgerwanderung. Bis 10.30 Uhr keine offenes Café gefunden. Erst am eigentlichen Etappenziel des heutigen Tagesziel Carrión de los Condes konnte ich frühstücken.
      Mit dem Frühstück kam die Entscheidung weiter zu laufen. Der Weg führte nach Calzadilla de la Cueza. Leider kein Bett zu bekommen. Deshalb entschlossen sich mein deutscher Wegbegleitet und ich noch bis Ledigos weitet zu pilgern. Hier haben wir dann nach ca. 47 km ein Quartier in einer Alberque gefunden. Ist zwar ziemlich groß, aber wir waren heute nicht mehr wählerisch. Bett ist Bett!!!
      Damit fast zwei Etappen an einem Tag bewältigt!!!
      Der Weg hierher war sehr eintönig - plattes Land, staubige Wege und viel, viel Gegenwind über alle Kilometer. Zwischendurch kamen dann auch noch Regenschauer.
      Fazit des Tages: Gegenwind aushalten und trotzdem dein Ziel erreichen!!!
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    • Castrojeriz to Frómista

      1 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

      Today was a 26km day, bigger than we prefer. It was mostly shadeless and sunny all day but at least it was not too hot. I wouldn’t enjoy it in August.

      We left Castrojeriz about 8am after breakfast where we stayed, at the Hotel Iacobus.

      2km west of town there was a steep climb rising 150m vertical in a 12% grade to get to the top of the Alto de Mostelares. Very good heart starter, was that climb. We paused to catch our breath and admire the views.

      Then it was a steep 80m descent down the other side into more meseta-like countryside.

      We stopped for a snack at a donativo truck (“pay what you think it is worth”) parked at a shaded rest area, then on into Itero de la Vega for lunch.

      Soon after lunch we crossed a river and entered the province of Palencia from that of Burgos. Two more provinces after Palencia on this walk: Leon and Galicia.

      A shadeless march took us into Boadilla del Camino where a cold drink and a foot airing were needed.

      From the outskirts of Boadilla to Frómista we walked beside a section of the Castilian Canal, an 18th century transport project. It was fairly well shaded most of the way by rows of tall trees.

      We checked into the Oasibeth hotel rural, which is a nice place. We enjoyed an excellent fixed price 3 course dinner in the hotel restaurant.

      A rest day in Frómista to give our well worn feet and legs a chance to refresh and to celebrate Kevin’s birthday. It I was nice to sleep in, have a leisurely breakfast and catch up on a few domestic chores like washing hiking clothes.

      Being Sunday we attended Mass at the Gothic 15th century church of San Pedro. The rather long Spanish sermon didn’t do much for us.

      We ate dinner tonight again at our hotel with several other pilgrims. We first met Levana way back in Zubiri and Chris in Los Arcos and have have crossed paths with each at various points along the Way. By far the fittest at the table was 76 year old Allen from the Peak District in the UK who is averaging 40km plus per day.
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    • Dzień 16

      Etappe 15: Boadilla nach Formista

      3 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      Heute stand eine extrem kurze Etappe von
      sechs Kilometern an.
      Der restliche Tag sollte als Rest- Day genutzt werden.
      Bei Sonnenaufgang gings los.
      Der Camino führte uns relativ unspektakulär quer durch die Meseta.
      Im Zielort angekommen, checkte ich erstmal im Hotel ein und genoss meinen Rest- Day
      Morgen geht's dann weiter nach Castellanos de Castro.
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    • Dzień 26

      Villalcazar de Sirgo

      13 października 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

      After our wonderful canal walk this morning, the afternoon walk was a let down.

      After visiting a church in Fromista, we set off out of town. The Camino became a dirt track parallel to a road.

      After 3k we entered a small town, with two route options : a flat straight , boring walk next to the road. Or a flat straight boring walk not next to a road.
      We chose option B. It led us to a small town that was basically closed. The one cafe was closed. The town did have a Jai Alai fronton. Nobody was playing.

      We then used a dirt road across the fields to re-join the main Camino route, which was the shorter walk.

      We arrived in our little town for the night, checked into our hostel and had beers/snacks. The only two cafés in town closed soon after that., Joining the rest of the town for Siesta. Not to reopen for dinner until 9 PM. Fortunately, the Albergue restaurant down the hill will open at 7:30 for a Pilgrim dinner.

      It is not clear anything in town will be open for coffee/breakfast in the morning, so we went to the mini-market for pineapple juice and a bag of mini-donuts for the morning. 6k walk to the next town tomorrow to find an open café!
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    • Dzień 14

      14. DAY | 25 km

      12 maja 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      The Camino provides...

      Habt ihr euch schon einmal die Frage gestellt, weshalb manche Menschen Wunder erleben und andere eher weniger oder garnicht ? Also eine Thematik habe ich heute jedenfalls für mich gefunden. Hier werde ich minimal einmal am Tag mit dem Dilemma der Schlafmöglichkeiten konfrontiert, dass es dieses Jahr der Horror sei den Camino zu gehen. Die Besitzer von den Unterkünften beschweren sich weil sie keine Betten für die Menschen haben, welche sich ein Bett verdienen weil die "Bus, Taxi Pilger" den anderen alles weg nehmen und die Pilger beschweren sich weil sie Stunden damit verbringen vor zu buchen um ein Bett zu bekommen was ihnen weg genommen wird. Mag es dahin gestellt sein ob ich alles richtig mache oder nicht, denn was ist schon richtig oder falsch, aber wie sollen sich denn Wunder ergeben, wenn man den kompletten Camino durch plant und alles voraus bucht ohne sich leiten zu lassen wie im Leben auch? Bezugnehmend auf den Kontext erzähle ich euch was heute passiert ist: Gestern rief ich in einem Hostel in der Stadt in der ich heute gerne übernachten wollte an und ein älterer Herr sagte "Ich habe für dich ein Zimmer unter dem Namen la chica italiana reserviert" er hatte mein Humor vermutlich aus dem Telefonat entnommen. Nun kam ich heute hier an und die Inhaberin sagte zu mir: Hier ist alles voll, mein Vater muss wohl etwas übersehen haben, dann fragte sie und der Vater sagte zu ihr: Ist dass la chica italiana? Schön dass Sie da ist ich habe mir schon sorgen gemacht, bringe sie in unsere freie Wohnung. Ja und genau da bin ich jetzt, zwischenzeitlich habe ich noch ein Mädchen eingecheckt, weil die Hotelbetreiber kein Englisch können und nun hätte ich einen Job wenn ich wollen würde (was ich natürlich, dankend abgelehnt habe).

      Heute hat es geregnet, war eine tolle Erfahrung mit einer tollen Begegnung.

      Elli

      Il Camino provede...

      Vi siete mai chiesti perché alcune persone ricevono dei miracoli e altre meno o per niente? Ebbene, oggi ho trovato una risposta per me stessa. Mi ritrovo almeno una volta al giorno di fronte al dilemma delle sistemazioni per dormire, in tanti che dicono che è un orrore percorrere il Camino quest'anno. I proprietari degli alloggi si lamentano perché non hanno letti per le persone che guadagnano un letto perché i "pellegrini in autobus, e in taxi" tolgono tutto agli altri e i pellegrini si lamentano perché passano ore a prenotare in anticipo per ottenere un letto che viene loro tolto. Sarà irrilevante se sto facendo tutto bene o no, perché cosa è gia giusto o sbagliato, ma come possono accadere i miracoli se si pianifica tutto il Cammino e si prenota tutto in anticipo senza lasciarsi guidare come nella vita reale? Riferendomi al contesto, vi racconto cosa è successo oggi: Ieri ho telefonato a un ostello della città dove volevo alloggiare stanotte e un signore anziano mi ha detto "ho prenotato una stanza per te con il nome la chica italiana", probabilmente aveva colto il mio umorismo dalla telefonata. Oggi sono arrivato qui e la proprietaria mi ha detto: Qui è tutto pieno, mio padre deve essersi perso qualcosa, poi ha chiesto e il padre le ha risposto: È la chica italiana? Sono contento che sia qui, ero preoccupato, portala nel nostro appartamento libero. Sì, ed è lì che mi trovo ora, nel frattempo ho fatto il check in ad un'altra ragazza perché i gestori dell'albergo non parlano l'inglese e ora avrei un lavoro se lo volessi (che ovviamente ho rifiutato con un grazie).

      Oggi ha piovuto, ma è stata una bella esperienza con un bell incontro.

      Elli
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    • Dzień 22

      Going to Carrión de los Condes

      9 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      Today we walked 19 km alongside the highway to get to Carrión de los Condes. It was relatively flat and mostly not too hot.

      We passed a shepherd on the way. His herding dog was a goofy German Shepherd puppy, maybe 4-5 months old. Needless to say the pup wasn’t much help! The sheep spilled out of their enclosure, onto the Camino, and onto the highway where they stopped all traffic!

      We have been wondering for days how the sunflowers here are harvested. Today we saw two fields of flowers being harvested. We still don’t know how the oil is extracted but at least we saw the lawnmower-like machines cutting down the spent plants.

      David started out pretty well and didn’t carry a pack today due to his messed up back and “tilt.” But as the day wore on he started moving slower and tilting more. When we got to our hotel I spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to get him a massage. Out here in the countryside it is not easy! But tomorrow we’re walking slowly to Ledigos. David’s not carrying a pack and will use poles. Then we’ll take a taxi from our albergue (hostel) to the next town where he has an appointment for a massage. Here’s to hoping it does the trick!
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    • Dzień 28

      Villarmentero de Campos

      15 września 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      W miarę łagodny dzień, który rozpoczął się w kończącej porannej burzy, następnie w deszczu i na koniec zakończył się wieczorną burzą. Droga była płaska i prowadziła nas do Fromisty, miasteczka z dwoma ciekawawymi kościołami. Biegła wzdłuż kanału melioracyjnego sprzed 200 lat. Wędrowaliśmy z naszymi Caminowymi przyjaciółmi AJ(Miami), Lucas( Niemcy ale mieszka na wyspach Kanaryjskich) and Ben(Węgry).
      Każdy jeden (Lucas i Ben) jest bardzo ciekawą postacią, myślę że z pogranicza autyzmu i bycia geniuszem.
      Kościół Sw. Marcina należy bez dwóch zdań do klasy perełek . Co prawda odbudowany w XVIII wieku po częściowym zburzeniu w czasie wojny, ale pierwotnie zbudowany w 1066 roku, prezentuje się w sposób niesamowicie zharmonizowany architektonicznie i stylistycznie. Detale kolumn i ich wykończenie są po prostu przepiękne i trudno dobrać właściwe słowa, aby je godnie opisać. Co ciekawe każda głowica kolumny jest inna.
      Drugi kościół jest pod wezwaniem St.Pedro, urodzonego we Fromista patrona żeglarzy, również bardzo interesujący z ciekawą rzeźbą Jezusa, którego skóra jest czarna. Znajdują się tam również rzeźby Sw. Łucji i Sw. Agaty pierwsza z wydłubanymi oczami, które trzyma na tacy i druga z obciętymi piersiami również na tacy.
      Zadziwia mnie moc nienawiści i chęci zadawania bólu u tych którzy wykonywali takie tortury..
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    • Dzień 28

      Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes

      1 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Today we decided to have breakfast at our hotel at 730 am as we were only walking 19 km but knew it was going to be another very hot day. After a delicious breakfast and the first time I could have cereal ( cornflakes!) we set off again but this time in daylight. The moon was still out and once again a chilly start to the day. The feet were all good and there was much chat as we walked the first 11km but much of it was a tree lined path alongside a river( not like the rivers we know, more a sludgy canal) We did stop in at one beautiful church along the way and even if not religious they are a haven to sit in and get out of the sun.
      Finally we came to a cute little village which is home to the magnificent Templar church of Santa Maria built in the 13 th C. Again a cool haven to sit in with beautiful music playing!
      Over the road at the cafe we enjoyed pizzas and coffee. Interestingly enough our American friend and another pilgrim were complaining about the bees hovering over their food but they were actually wasps. Do they not have wasps in Nth Carolina?
      By now the day was getting hot and we still had 5 km to go with no shade so it was basically, just get on with it. Ear plugs in, audio music and books on we kept walking along side a road but expansive views and big blue skies with the sun beating down.
      I have taken a video a km out . Luckily there was a bit of a breeze so finally about 1 pm we entered Carrion de Los Condes which is a really pretty town and even had a great sports shop. Carrion has quite a mediaeval feel and was the home of 14 pilgrim hospitals. At its height it had a population of 10 thousand but now is only 2000 and declining. It seems most of these towns have declining populations!
      A few items were purchased and we banged into a few of our pilgrim family two being the Australian father and son who are staying in a monastery. The father last time we saw him had terrible blisters and was searching for hikers wool. We did give him some but then he found a paddock of sheep so went in and plucked wool off the fence for his blisters! We couldn't help but mention the rugby but he is only interested in AFL . Jane and I then met up again with a lovely young Mexican who carries an umbrella and a shopping bag as he hikes ( photo enclosed) .
      Finally we arrived at our hotel which is 1 star but very comfortable. Before we do anything we have a cold beer so cold beers it was and even better was a plate of delicious black pudding. There we met up again with a Virginian named Bill who had a lot to chat about having lived in Botswana and Nigeria many years working for the Peace Corps and was married in Botswana ( like the Cockrells)
      Anyway the beer was cold and we enjoyed listening and when Bill told us about meeting his wife across a crowded room, Lee and Brian proceeded to sing him Some enchanted evening from Sth Pacific. Ok boys time for a siesta!
      Tomorrow is going to be a 27 km walk with little or no shade so we will set off early as it's going to be another hot hot day.
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    • Dzień 17

      Boadilla > Carrión

      17 października 2023, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      Somehow all managed to take different routes to this place but all got there in one piece!! Albeit a dead one piece for me - paid the price being too lazy to get out snax from bag for the final 5K LOL. In the eve sang w some nuns and I think Captain Stu needs to take over my captioning duties cos he said they should have been on the cross factor not X factor Czytaj więcej

    • Dzień 17

      Day 17: Castrojeriz a Fromista

      16 maja 2022, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      So I rejoin the trail on day 16. I start later than usual, at around 8.30 in the morning. It will be a struggle to change my sleeping pattern again! I leave Dad after a couple of coffees with him and Tomi and have to walk off into the morning sun. Bittersweet, but I am so glad to have been able to enjoy the time together.

      The day starts and my pace is all wrong, the sun is a little high in the sky, and the first thing I do is climb. Climb past Sandra who spoke to me briefly, climb past many people I don’t recognise. I certainly need to get into my stride again.

      The day is warm and a little breezy. I am into the Meseta, the ‘mind’ portion of the walk. I was expecting arid and dry fields, scorched earth and sunshine. But it’s still early in the year, so the fields are green and there are flowers lining the path. Poppies, cornflowers, daisies. Blue, purple and red.

      I walk to the first pilgrim stop point and I am greeted by a man who is a little surly. He puts me into a weird frame of mind as I walk. Am I doing this pilgrim thing right? Why am I even here? These thoughts circle around in my head as I walk.

      25k unfurls in front of me and I don’t really even notice. I arrive at Fromista, sometime in the afternoon at around 2pm. I check in to my albergue and notice Hodges and Jim, and I am glad to see the familiar faces. We chat about what is coming up tomorrow and our experiences so far, and I feel at ease again.

      Hodges and I share a beer, and he tells me he has yet to have a profound moment. Amy, he tells me, has been in tears over her experience. It makes me reflect on my own and wonder where I sit with it all? It has been very mixed so far, and still a long way to go.

      I have dinner with them both and Scottish Sandra. Castilian garlic soup (not again!) and trout. A glass of wine and try to get some sleep. I am aiming for an early start tomorrow, 5.45, so I can enjoy a little solitude in the morning light.

      We shall see if that actually happens!

      On to the next day.
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    Możesz znać też następujące nazwy tego miejsca:

    Frómista, Fromista, 34440

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