Spain
Frómista

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    • Day 22

      Going to Carrión de los Condes

      October 9, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      Today we walked 19 km alongside the highway to get to Carrión de los Condes. It was relatively flat and mostly not too hot.

      We passed a shepherd on the way. His herding dog was a goofy German Shepherd puppy, maybe 4-5 months old. Needless to say the pup wasn’t much help! The sheep spilled out of their enclosure, onto the Camino, and onto the highway where they stopped all traffic!

      We have been wondering for days how the sunflowers here are harvested. Today we saw two fields of flowers being harvested. We still don’t know how the oil is extracted but at least we saw the lawnmower-like machines cutting down the spent plants.

      David started out pretty well and didn’t carry a pack today due to his messed up back and “tilt.” But as the day wore on he started moving slower and tilting more. When we got to our hotel I spent a couple hours trying to figure out how to get him a massage. Out here in the countryside it is not easy! But tomorrow we’re walking slowly to Ledigos. David’s not carrying a pack and will use poles. Then we’ll take a taxi from our albergue (hostel) to the next town where he has an appointment for a massage. Here’s to hoping it does the trick!
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    • Day 14

      14. DAY | 25 km

      May 12, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

      The Camino provides...

      Habt ihr euch schon einmal die Frage gestellt, weshalb manche Menschen Wunder erleben und andere eher weniger oder garnicht ? Also eine Thematik habe ich heute jedenfalls für mich gefunden. Hier werde ich minimal einmal am Tag mit dem Dilemma der Schlafmöglichkeiten konfrontiert, dass es dieses Jahr der Horror sei den Camino zu gehen. Die Besitzer von den Unterkünften beschweren sich weil sie keine Betten für die Menschen haben, welche sich ein Bett verdienen weil die "Bus, Taxi Pilger" den anderen alles weg nehmen und die Pilger beschweren sich weil sie Stunden damit verbringen vor zu buchen um ein Bett zu bekommen was ihnen weg genommen wird. Mag es dahin gestellt sein ob ich alles richtig mache oder nicht, denn was ist schon richtig oder falsch, aber wie sollen sich denn Wunder ergeben, wenn man den kompletten Camino durch plant und alles voraus bucht ohne sich leiten zu lassen wie im Leben auch? Bezugnehmend auf den Kontext erzähle ich euch was heute passiert ist: Gestern rief ich in einem Hostel in der Stadt in der ich heute gerne übernachten wollte an und ein älterer Herr sagte "Ich habe für dich ein Zimmer unter dem Namen la chica italiana reserviert" er hatte mein Humor vermutlich aus dem Telefonat entnommen. Nun kam ich heute hier an und die Inhaberin sagte zu mir: Hier ist alles voll, mein Vater muss wohl etwas übersehen haben, dann fragte sie und der Vater sagte zu ihr: Ist dass la chica italiana? Schön dass Sie da ist ich habe mir schon sorgen gemacht, bringe sie in unsere freie Wohnung. Ja und genau da bin ich jetzt, zwischenzeitlich habe ich noch ein Mädchen eingecheckt, weil die Hotelbetreiber kein Englisch können und nun hätte ich einen Job wenn ich wollen würde (was ich natürlich, dankend abgelehnt habe).

      Heute hat es geregnet, war eine tolle Erfahrung mit einer tollen Begegnung.

      Elli

      Il Camino provede...

      Vi siete mai chiesti perché alcune persone ricevono dei miracoli e altre meno o per niente? Ebbene, oggi ho trovato una risposta per me stessa. Mi ritrovo almeno una volta al giorno di fronte al dilemma delle sistemazioni per dormire, in tanti che dicono che è un orrore percorrere il Camino quest'anno. I proprietari degli alloggi si lamentano perché non hanno letti per le persone che guadagnano un letto perché i "pellegrini in autobus, e in taxi" tolgono tutto agli altri e i pellegrini si lamentano perché passano ore a prenotare in anticipo per ottenere un letto che viene loro tolto. Sarà irrilevante se sto facendo tutto bene o no, perché cosa è gia giusto o sbagliato, ma come possono accadere i miracoli se si pianifica tutto il Cammino e si prenota tutto in anticipo senza lasciarsi guidare come nella vita reale? Riferendomi al contesto, vi racconto cosa è successo oggi: Ieri ho telefonato a un ostello della città dove volevo alloggiare stanotte e un signore anziano mi ha detto "ho prenotato una stanza per te con il nome la chica italiana", probabilmente aveva colto il mio umorismo dalla telefonata. Oggi sono arrivato qui e la proprietaria mi ha detto: Qui è tutto pieno, mio padre deve essersi perso qualcosa, poi ha chiesto e il padre le ha risposto: È la chica italiana? Sono contento che sia qui, ero preoccupato, portala nel nostro appartamento libero. Sì, ed è lì che mi trovo ora, nel frattempo ho fatto il check in ad un'altra ragazza perché i gestori dell'albergo non parlano l'inglese e ora avrei un lavoro se lo volessi (che ovviamente ho rifiutato con un grazie).

      Oggi ha piovuto, ma è stata una bella esperienza con un bell incontro.

      Elli
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    • Day 19

      Day 19: Moratinos

      September 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

      We set out shortly after 8 a.m. from Hontanas, which would be a late start for walking but was just right for biking.

      We pedaled past several ruins, including the impressive remains of a medieval nunnery before stopping for breakfast in Castrojeriz. It is a long, skinny town of great beauty.

      After Castrojeriz we soon came upon the steepest hill of the day. The batteries on our rented ebikes were extremely helpful in providing extra oomph to get us to the top without stopping. After a short bit of level riding, we then faced another roller coaster drop off the hill.

      By the time we arrived in Fromista, which was a little shy of our halfway point, our batteries were down to 2 of 5 bars. So we stopped in a cafe bar, asked if we could charge while we ate, and spent a pleasant hour eating tortillas and bocadillos, and drinking coffee and tinto de verano.

      Setting off from Fromista, the headwinds we’d been battling all day seemed to intensify. Riding with the wind whistling in my ears was a constant reminder of Hurricane Ian’s strong winds bearing down on our home state of Florida today.

      Three towns prior to our lodging, my bike’s battery died. We tried swapping in Allan’s battery which still had some charge, but it didn’t fit. So we took turns alternating between the bikes from then until we reached Calzadilla de la Cueza, a few kilometers down the Camino.

      The first albergue I approached asking to buy 30 minutes of electricity turned me away, suggesting that I try one of the town’s bars. The first was closed, but we got lucky at the second. An hour later we were on our way with enough charge to make it to Albergue San Bruno in time for quick showers before the 7 p.m. communal meal. All in, we pedaled close to 90 kilometers today.

      Sitting down to dinner, we were delighted to bump into a father-son duo we’d met at Orisson.

      Tomorrow, we’ll bike about 65 kilometers to Leon, and relinquish our two-wheeled steeds.
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    • Day 28

      Villarmentero de Campos

      September 15, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      W miarę łagodny dzień, który rozpoczął się w kończącej porannej burzy, następnie w deszczu i na koniec zakończył się wieczorną burzą. Droga była płaska i prowadziła nas do Fromisty, miasteczka z dwoma ciekawawymi kościołami. Biegła wzdłuż kanału melioracyjnego sprzed 200 lat. Wędrowaliśmy z naszymi Caminowymi przyjaciółmi AJ(Miami), Lucas( Niemcy ale mieszka na wyspach Kanaryjskich) and Ben(Węgry).
      Każdy jeden (Lucas i Ben) jest bardzo ciekawą postacią, myślę że z pogranicza autyzmu i bycia geniuszem.
      Kościół Sw. Marcina należy bez dwóch zdań do klasy perełek . Co prawda odbudowany w XVIII wieku po częściowym zburzeniu w czasie wojny, ale pierwotnie zbudowany w 1066 roku, prezentuje się w sposób niesamowicie zharmonizowany architektonicznie i stylistycznie. Detale kolumn i ich wykończenie są po prostu przepiękne i trudno dobrać właściwe słowa, aby je godnie opisać. Co ciekawe każda głowica kolumny jest inna.
      Drugi kościół jest pod wezwaniem St.Pedro, urodzonego we Fromista patrona żeglarzy, również bardzo interesujący z ciekawą rzeźbą Jezusa, którego skóra jest czarna. Znajdują się tam również rzeźby Sw. Łucji i Sw. Agaty pierwsza z wydłubanymi oczami, które trzyma na tacy i druga z obciętymi piersiami również na tacy.
      Zadziwia mnie moc nienawiści i chęci zadawania bólu u tych którzy wykonywali takie tortury..
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    • Day 12

      Boadilla de Camino

      July 28, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

      Four years ago this albergue was the best on the Camino. It had a pool, a beer garden, pilgrims were sitting and laughing.

      Today the albergue and garden are closed. The three pilgrims are housed above the hotel next door, which sells 0.2 cola for three bucks and did not have food.

      It’s not just COVID, the Camino got too big for its own good and enthusiasm was replaced by greed that quickly destroyed many businesses.
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    • Day 28

      Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes

      October 1, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

      Today we decided to have breakfast at our hotel at 730 am as we were only walking 19 km but knew it was going to be another very hot day. After a delicious breakfast and the first time I could have cereal ( cornflakes!) we set off again but this time in daylight. The moon was still out and once again a chilly start to the day. The feet were all good and there was much chat as we walked the first 11km but much of it was a tree lined path alongside a river( not like the rivers we know, more a sludgy canal) We did stop in at one beautiful church along the way and even if not religious they are a haven to sit in and get out of the sun.
      Finally we came to a cute little village which is home to the magnificent Templar church of Santa Maria built in the 13 th C. Again a cool haven to sit in with beautiful music playing!
      Over the road at the cafe we enjoyed pizzas and coffee. Interestingly enough our American friend and another pilgrim were complaining about the bees hovering over their food but they were actually wasps. Do they not have wasps in Nth Carolina?
      By now the day was getting hot and we still had 5 km to go with no shade so it was basically, just get on with it. Ear plugs in, audio music and books on we kept walking along side a road but expansive views and big blue skies with the sun beating down.
      I have taken a video a km out . Luckily there was a bit of a breeze so finally about 1 pm we entered Carrion de Los Condes which is a really pretty town and even had a great sports shop. Carrion has quite a mediaeval feel and was the home of 14 pilgrim hospitals. At its height it had a population of 10 thousand but now is only 2000 and declining. It seems most of these towns have declining populations!
      A few items were purchased and we banged into a few of our pilgrim family two being the Australian father and son who are staying in a monastery. The father last time we saw him had terrible blisters and was searching for hikers wool. We did give him some but then he found a paddock of sheep so went in and plucked wool off the fence for his blisters! We couldn't help but mention the rugby but he is only interested in AFL . Jane and I then met up again with a lovely young Mexican who carries an umbrella and a shopping bag as he hikes ( photo enclosed) .
      Finally we arrived at our hotel which is 1 star but very comfortable. Before we do anything we have a cold beer so cold beers it was and even better was a plate of delicious black pudding. There we met up again with a Virginian named Bill who had a lot to chat about having lived in Botswana and Nigeria many years working for the Peace Corps and was married in Botswana ( like the Cockrells)
      Anyway the beer was cold and we enjoyed listening and when Bill told us about meeting his wife across a crowded room, Lee and Brian proceeded to sing him Some enchanted evening from Sth Pacific. Ok boys time for a siesta!
      Tomorrow is going to be a 27 km walk with little or no shade so we will set off early as it's going to be another hot hot day.
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    • The Big Fall

      September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      A 17.2-mile hike today. We knew we had a big climb in front of us — and the climb pretty much started our day.

      Once I begin climbing, I try to concentrate on what is in front of me. The steepness, rockiness, and altitude play a part in how much work it will be. These hikes tend to be made up of many curves. Just as I think I am close to the top, as I turn the bend, the Camino reveals so much more to go. But there is great satisfaction once at the top!

      While the climb and walk were long and rocky, the trail was flat. It reminds me I am on the Meseta!

      As we entered the last town before our final destination for today—Fromista, we were all looking for water or some type of beverage at a Bar up ahead, and a little break from walking. I was just putting my trekking poles together to put in one hand to carry—then it happened! Walking on the flat, concrete pavement there was a rock the size of my fist that I stepped on, tripped on, and fell on. It was not pretty. As I was falling I just said, “oh please don’t lose consciousness!” There was lots of blood, but the first thing I said is, “How embarrassing!” Then as I saw the blood — I leaned forward so I would not get blood on my clothes—because as my kids know, blood can be a tough stain to get out! 🤣 (Inside joke)

      My Camino friend, the retired Marine from VA, grabbed toilet paper from his pack and told me to hold it on my head where there was a lot of bleeding. Simon ran for ice. Several others helped me up. I was fine to walk, but my head got most of the collateral damage.

      El deFronso (Marine) was looking up medical centers and Simon asked for a taxi. El deFranco said he would come with me since I don’t speak Spanish. A gentleman among the pilgrims said, “I am Brian, I have a car and would be happy to take you to the medical center!” I was so overwhelmed by the concern and kindness! I can’t begin to fully express how wonderful this community is!

      Once we arrived at the medical center, they stitches me up with 5 stitches on my eyebrow. The doctor checked out my hip, where I had a significant bump.--all was okay! Then El deFronso walked me right around the corner to the place I was staying for the night.

      I went to dinner with a handful of women I have met on the Camino, all but one traveling solo.

      As pilgrims arrived for dinner, many were happy to see me up and around. Many said they heard, “Kathie fell and had to have stitches” so when they saw me (sporting Mimi’s sunglasses) they were really happy “to see your smile!” Mimi and Jo commented, “everyone knows Kathie—she’s always so friendly and has a smile for everyone.” Then at dinner, several of the women said I brought many of us together—something I just didn’t pay attention to, but happy they felt included.

      I decided not to walk tomorrow—mostly because one of my eyes is almost closed shut. My arm is sore, I hope I will feel better so I can resume walking on Saturday.

      God is so good to me. While I look uglier than who knows what—I am just sore, I didn’t have a concussion, I didn’t lose an eye, and I didn’t break my arm, leg, or hip! And God sent amazing angels to help me during a time of need.

      I feel Jesus' presence. I feel the Blessed Mother and St. James helping me walk “The Way”. This is not to say that in my prayers I have asked God if at all possible, may I continue this faith journey without many (any) more incidents. ✝️🙏🏻

      Praying for all of you on this faith journey! Your prayers for me are most welcomed and deeply appreciated!
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    • Prayers of Encouragement

      September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

      Hi everyone! I am back on the trail from my fall. It was cold all day!

      When we set out, I was (am) still sore from the fall. I badly bruised my right arm, so I can’t use my trekking poles. But the Meseta is so flat, it wasn’t an issue.

      Throughout the night as my body ached, I prayed for encouragement. Once we were up and out of the Albergue, I felt happy to be back walking, but still incredibly sore. My black eye has now moved to a good portion of my face and as I looked in the mirror, I can understand now why the Phantom from Phantom of the Opera had half a mask! Not a pretty sight.

      As we rounded the bend heading out of town, many of us stopped in our tracks! Up ahead we met this amazing group of individuals helping two wheelchair-bound men walk the Camino. My prayer was answered! I hope they encourage or inspire you as they did me!
      Buen Camino!
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    • Day 17

      Castrojeriz to Fromista

      May 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

      Today, as perhaps the next few days will be, was relatively unremarkable. This area is largely grain and barley farming, so a bit like walking through Saskwatchen (lol). In fact, much of northern Spain so far reminds me a great deal of the Okanagan: fruit, wine, lavender, but no lakes.

      Today was 25km and with the exception of one 1 km hill at a 12% grade and very windy ( Lethbridge windy), it was a good Camino day. Thankfully, my feet are getting better, and healing. They hurt less just generally. Other body parts continue to hold up.

      The windy weather may continue into tomorrow, but there is no forecast for rain, and continued temperatures in the high teens, I think it will be another week before we begin to see weather in the 20’s. But having said that despite the wind and it is a bit cool…the sky is blue and the sun is out, so very pleasant for walking.

      I walked alone much of the day but intermittently met a few friends from Australia. Later today, I met the Canadian father and daughter ( Bob and Kate) whom I see fairly consistently on the trail. I also was introduced to a couple of ladies travelling together from Ontario whom I have not met before today.

      I have attached a picture of my Camino packing system in case you ever wondered how do you pack and unpack for 50 days in a row? First, before I shower, I empty the backpack completely, empty out all the water bottles, I stack clothes into backpack clothes, dirty clothes, clothes I am going to wear after the shower. I lay out medicine, hair shampoo, toothbrush etc in the bathroom. I put all the back pack stuff ready for repacking in the morning, including the first aid kit ( which I use every morning….because every morning my feet require first aid if they are going to see the end of the day.), sun screen. It is a bit of a system, but I find I can relax, have a shower, have a wine or beer and socialize, dinner and be ready for the next day. Luggage always has to be down by 8 am. No dawdling in the morning!

      I attached a picture of the meseta which is sprawling and will continue for the next days to come. I also attached a picture of the cross with shells…it is actually just a bit macabre because in the middle 1400’s if you committed a serious crime, they hung you from it!
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    • Day 19

      Day 20. Fromista

      May 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

      A 24.9 km day that started with a steep climb up the Alto de Mostelares this morning where we had magnificent views of the valley behind us. We stopped at a tiny auberge in a chapel along the way before connecting with a canal that brought us into the town of Fromista.
      Once again, I started this morning in 5 degree weather, but the shining sun made walking enjoyable, providing I maintained a brisk pace. At the Alto de Mostelares summit, I reconnected with the same three people I was with yesterday. Cat, the physiotherapist from Austin, spent some of her day helping pilgrims with shin splints and foot issues. One thing I learned is that if you massage your feet, you should do it upwards rather than downward. Apparently, it improves the circulation. For shin splints the best thing to do is to rest, but many struggling with this ailment have to slow their pace. Stopping was not an option for them.
      I had a great discussion with Joachim, the Spanish literature teacher who knew more English than I thought. He gave me excellent insights on Don Quixote, arguably the best novel of all time. I learned from him that de Cervantes, the novel’s author, died the same day as William Shakespeare. We then moved on to Shakespeare, comparing Henry V St. Crispin’s day speech to William Wallace’s speech in Braveheart.
      Francisco, the agronomist from Chile, owned a huge raspberry business in Mexico, although he did live in Chile, that employed over 3000 workers. He sold that business, which he says provided France with 50% of their raspberries, for an even larger blackberry business. I suspect he’s very wealthy, but he chooses to stay in auberges, living simply and communally. One thing that left a mark on him was stopping at a small church where a very elderly nun volunteered her time providing pilgrims with small religious medallions tied with a simple string. She did this with such a sense of purpose, feeling it was the most important job in the world, while expecting nothing in return. He, especially, cherished the extra one she gave him for his mother back in Chile. I have included photos of my three friends and the medallion; I had stopped at the same church and was given the same one.
      It was very windy again today and our walk was disrupted when an elderly lady was bowled over by a cyclist right in front of us. She was stunned, incurring extensive cuts, bruises, a swollen nose that bled incessantly and possibly broken. Many people stopped to help, and the cyclist, who had just sped past us, was quite apologetic. This lady’s son was understandably irate, but once her senses were restored, she smiled, forgave the cyclist, and thanked everyone.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Frómista, Fromista

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